/bqg/ - Bike Questions General

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How many miles is too many for a secondhand carbon fiber bike, considering that it was well-maintained and serviced, has never been crashed, was stored properly, and is otherwise in good shape? As in, what is this threshold thereafter it is a bad idea to consider purchasing, no matter how good of a deal it is?

>>973274
They direct hanging twigs and branches away from your face.

>>973278
No. But there is of course an age threshold where components have fallen so far behind current generation spec that a cheap new bike is a much more interesting proposition. And that's fewer years than some think.

>>973280
Even if the bike in question is a 2012 or newer frame with non-Di2 Dura Ace components, for example?

>>973281
Yes. 105 5600 or 5700 is a much worse proposition than 105 5800 or Tiagra 4700, and a 4700 brand name bike can be had for peanuts. Also, tyre rubber will have dried out, cable housings gone brittle, bar tape and all those little expenses add up to eat up a decent portion of the "profit" from buying used. And that's assuming the used bike actually is in as good condition and as uncrashed as is claimed.

Yes, there are decent used bike deals but they're few and far between. Unless you're a penny-pinching neet looking for the stereotypical tenspeed you should take a long and hard look at the deals available on new bikes. Be they last years model year, end of season sale, mid-season sale, random any-god-damn-time-of-year sale, bike-in-a-box á la Canyon or what have you.

>>973284
Thanks. I'm trying to go via Craigslist (and have a shop mechanic inspect the bike in front of me and the owner, however bikes fitting my criteria and frame size, 54cm, are few and far to come by)

or

eBay (I know that this isn't prudent), whereI eBay, as an option, would be exercised only if I'm getting a genuine steal of a deal (and the owner is compliant with the barrage of questions I would have)

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Reminder that Dutch brand bikes are utter shit

>>973274
>Anyway, what's the point of cycle helmet visors?
My doctor recommends one for preventing melanoma.

>>973298
fuck

>Anyway, what's the point of cycle helmet visors?
They stop debris thrown up by the front tyre from landing in your eyes. They also provide a snazzy pointy aesthetic to the otherwise homely roundness of a bicycle helmet.

Can anyone recommend a track pump that's good at both high volume and high pressure (at least 760 kPa)?

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Do you think letting my cycling gloves double as weight lifting gloves is a bad idea?

>>973304
>Can anyone recommend a track pump that's good at both high volume and high pressure (at least 760 kPa)?
The SKS Rennkompressor. It has reigned supreme for half a century for a reason.
>>973308
Yes.

>>973308
>Weight lifting gloves

>>973309
>Had to introduce a new pump head that accepts CO2 cartridges for high-volume jobs
Pumps have to different things today than they did 50 years ago.

>>973308
I wouldn't my lifting gloves get torn up, just buy a cheap pair of lifting specific gloves they aren't expensive

>>973313
>new pump head that accepts CO2 cartridges
Intrigued. Explain. Please be true and not confused about dual valve head.

>>973324
http://www.bikerumor.com/2016/05/26/sks-pops-tubeless-tires-place-new-tl-pump-head-clip-saddle-fender/

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>>973304
>They stop debris thrown up by the front tyre from landing in your eyes

Wot. Are they supposed to be somehow worn below the eyes or are there some troll physics involved?

>>973325
That's nifty, but that's got nothing to do with high pressure pumps. OP wanted a high pressure pump. The Rennkompressor is not, will not be a suitable mountainbike pump, just like the SKS 29er will not be a good high pressure track pump. Volume and pressure are opposing qualities in a pump.

Though had I not already bought an Airshot I might have bought that.

>>973326
Anon confused them with glasses.

>>973326
>>973331
But yeah, the mud will take a path not dissimilar to the troll line you wriggled. It will come off the wheel upwards and forwards under the crown, and your face will catch up to it. That's why those fork bridge fenders are so effective on mountainbikes.
Helmet half inch "visor" still won't do a thing about that though.

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>>973326
>>973331
Like this, you pillocks.

>>973329
>OP wanted a high pressure pump.
Please learn to read.

>>973308

It will certainly increase wear & tear, but it's sporting equipment and cycling gloves are disposable once-per-season purchases anyway.

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>>973274
is there any specific name for pic related rim ?

>>973337
Mavic XM119 29"? Or what specifically are you asking about?

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>>973338
looks different than this one

why is the extra space under ?

>>973339
Stiffness, aerodynamics and looks. The old styre rim cross section shown in your last pic is of a so called box rim, and a hookless one at that. For a modern example of a box rim, see H+Son TB14.

>>973340
shit, didn't see it was hookless.

So, the first pic is just a modern box rim? thanks!

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>>973341
No, the first pic is a standard low profile double bottom rim. A box rim is pic related. The cross section is a box.

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>>973342
Thank you!

>>973342
A box rim does not need to be double walled. The box in the name comes from the boxy shape, not the fact that the walls form a box.

>>973346
>A box rim does not need to be double walled
Was in no way implied and the previous box rim isn't double walled so...

8km commute during Japanese "rainy season". What wear? Heavy rains and temp in the mid to high 20s (celsius). Sweat like a bitch. Might just go with 1 layer of lycra, bit pissed with constantly wet feet though. Covers for shoes on clips?

Hello,

I am looking for a saddle for mountain bike, is there any specific saddle that is recommended by /n/ ? Looking for something cheap.

>>973378
>Dressing up for an 8 km commute

>>973392
Saddle preference is a very personal thing, but the Charge (or is it Fabric now?) Spoon is a good place to start.

>>973378
I'd think a rain cape would be ideal. But I'm really surprised you haven't just asked/noticed what other people there use.

>>973392
The only MTB-specific saddle I rec by name is the Specialized Power saddle, but they're not cheap. If you want something as cheap as possible I'd just grab a generic $10 Chinese saddle off ebay.

>>973403
They do but they are shite quality, non breathable. I can handle the wet torso and legs, but the feet. I have nowhere to dry shoes where I work so they'd rot/stay wet all day.

Looking to get a bunch of stuff online sent to me because my LBS is 30 miles away. Looking to get:
Bikes spokes for wheel rebuild
New tires
Cables
Brakes.

What are the go-to's for online shopping?

>>973407
For most of those things it doesn't matter where you shop because most online stores offer price matching. For spokes the best place to get them these days is Danscomp, which cuts spokes to order for cheap - only catch is you have to order by phone.

The rain season is coming, what kind of pants are available so I'm not trekking 10 miles in soaked chamois?

>>973428

Waterproof pants aren't breathable, so you'll end up sweaty as fuck anyway. Best bets are to either go full neoprene and deal, or to go as thin & quick-dry as possible base layer under as thin & waterproof as possible toplayer. Basically you get to choose between being wet and comfy or miserable while wet but even comfier a bit after it stops raining.

>>973274
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ta8lSwPGdU

I am going to use Aircraft Remover, then use sandpaper to remove the paint from my mountain bike.

I am looking for a black paint, are there anything recommended or anything should do it. Not looking for a glossy black paint.

>>973433
This is my situation on my commute. Get wet or get sweaty. I'm erring on the side of thin layers than I can strip off and dry quick mixed with shoe covers. Shower caps for the feet.

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mtb sizing issue
gonna get a 16" prolly should get a 18" these are facts the question is what are the benefits / drawbacks of a setback seatpost vs a longer stem set up
my thinking is it will put me further back on the bike and avoid handling issues that come with riding a small mtb frame and long stem

or is all of this just knitpicking?

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>>973428
Fenders & a longish raincoat. Shorts won't get wet in most rain with fenders. It's mostly the spray from the road that does them in.

If your clothing is light, just enough to stay warm and you're fit, it is possible to stay dry. Takes a lot of experience though.

>>973378
Get a high end shell from a big outdoor retailer (preferably on sale) and waterproof spray it. The expensive-ish ones are pretty amazing and will breath while keeping you dry. Shell + merino base layer or jersey + bibs or shorts & underwear is how i normally do it.

You could go shoe covers, but they do let water in from the holes around the cleats. If it's only a short ride, i'd go regular goretex shoes/ boots & gaiters with cage pedals. They stay 100% dry. It is quite amazing. I can stand in rivers in my goretex boots.

Another option seeing as it's hot would be spd sandals, which would be really comfortable wet with no socks, and would probably dry by themselves- shimano make them, and sheldon loved them.

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>>973428
& if you can't be fucked with fenders even a $10 ass-saver will make a big difference.

>>973447
I'd recommend you don't unless you need to for rust treatment. If you must, don't do black, black bikes/ cars are awful. You're going to completely strip the frame right? Price local powder coating. A rattle can job, especially your first, won't last at all and will look like crap.

>>973450
longer stem is good for climbing

setback post with short stem is optimal for descending

mtb are not road bikes. choose the appropriate size based on manufacturer specs or a professional bikefitting.

>>973450

Size down.
Small frames are lighter, stronger, handle better. There is a reason that BMX & trials bikes are small.

Saddle position is less critical on a mountain bike because you spend a lot of time riding in attack position.


>>973468

>setback post is optimal for descending

da FUQ are you smoking?

>>973462
Thanks anon, the bike would make /n/ cringe with the amount of rust. The previous owner had it outside in a pile of junk, so I desperately need to strip everything. Local powder coating is not a option since I don't want to put a lot of money into it. What other color do you recommend ?

>>973470
lets see some photos my dude

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How the fuck am I supposed to get my crank out?

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>>973478

>>973460
>spd sandals
SPD JESUS CREEPERS! Shit that just made my day. TYVM!

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>>973478
With a regular crank puller? Lots of bbs are like that. You just completely unthread the inner part of the puller, completely thread on the body part, and then thread the inner part in pressing against that bolt.

>>973479
No bearing puller required.

>>973481
: ) you're welcome. They're pretty rad. Sheldon used to wear them in winter snow with 3 pairs of socks.

>>973488
>wear them in winter snow with 3 pairs of socks
b-but why??

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I need some recommendations for cheap mtb pedals that will deal with very wet, and sometimes freezing, weather and terrain conditions.

>>973488
I grabbed some poly arm covers with elasticated ends. They're used for cleaning and are disposable. Slide over the shoes. Should be okay in the short term.

>>973496
Is there some reason you're not buying shimano?

>>973515
I would like to not have to buy cleat shoes as well, if possible. I should probably have mentioned that.

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>>973468
>MTB
>Professional bikefitting
el oh le

>>973469
>Always size down
Sorry son, that meme is dead. Nowadays it's all about getting the longest possible toptube.

>>973496
Superstar Nano-x are probably the best price:performance you can get. Wellgo V-8 Copies are very cheap, but kind of thick.

>>973496


Time ATAC

I first got them because SPDs kept clogging with ice and snow

>>973496 here
I currently have the cheapest noname i could find.
I went riding in the swamp last week, and since then i the left pedal developed an infernal double-click sound which i could also feel in my foot, under heavy load. I thought fuck, there's something gone wrong with the bearing inside the pedal, but there doesn't look to be any easy way to get in there to service it, so i'm going to have to get some proper pedals.
But i tried just unscrewing the pedal from the crack arm and grease the thread and screwing it back on, and the clicking is gone!
I don't understand the physics of it! Fucking bicycle mechanics, how does it work?

>>973515
>>973518
>>973519
Thanks for the replies.

>>973518
Know any place i can find the Superstars in the EU, except for their own site? Shipping is often relatively expensive when buying directly from the producer.

>>973519
How do the Time ATAC cleats work? Do you need special shoes, or will they mount to any SPD shoe?

>>973539
The brand isn't particularly important. Simple parts like this are frequently purchased by small MTB component companies directly from the catalogues of factories in China and Taiwan. Where are you based?

>>973543
Sweden.

>The brand isn't particularly important.
I figure this, but i'm not experienced enough to identify quality construction from crap, when i see it.

>>973518

Has anybody ridden one of these new geom MTBs? what it like?

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I've just installed a brand new headset onto this old road frame and there is more steerer tube than I have spacers/locknut. Do I need the special keyed washers or can I jerry rig something else like threadless spacers or just normal washers onto there?

Also, the single keyed spacer that came with the headset seems like it's just a bit too small. Is it supposed to be a tight fit—so tight that I'd probably need to tap it in with a hammer or some other object?

>>973583
There are a couple different kinds of keyed washers, if yours doesn't fit don't worry about it, just replace it with normal washers/spacers. As for the extra space you have, I'd double check that you have each part of the headset in its proper place of course, but that amount of gap isn't unreasonable if you're going from a HS with very large stack height to a new one with a very low stack height, you'll just need to come up with spacers.

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>>973475
here is the frame, the handle bar is covered in rust.
and pic here >>973604

>>973605
I wouldn't repaint that, the frame actually looks to be in pretty good shape

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>>973613
Just let him do it and then regret it

>>973584
So would any 1" washer/spacer be okay? For instance: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-1-25-4mm-Bike-Headset-Spacers-Size-Colour-Choice-/180948223102

>>973616
yep, those will work

>>973428
Get cycling specific pants, anything else will be too baggy and get caught in the drivetrain. I recommend looking into Endura. Try them on in person because their sizing is weird. If I recall correctly they run really small (or maybe really big? pretty sure it's really small).

>>973613
>>973614
The base frame is not good enough in bad enough shape to be worth the work, but that also means it's no big deal when he fucks it up.

I say do it. You'll have some experience working with bikes and you'll end up with an ugly bike you will be proud of for the effort and love you've spent on it; like a retarded child.

>>973392
Go to a LBS and get advice there. This is something that's best to do in person.

>>973378
Wear cycling socks (Defeet Aireator are great), they don't hold water. Cycling jersey/shorts and rain jacket. Don't bother with rain pants imo.

>>973274
>Anyway, what's the point of cycle helmet visors?
Sun and rain

>>973584
>>973617
How much force is exerted on a threaded headset at the top? I have a 1 1/8" spacer that has little gaps between it and the octagonal locknut. Does that matter? Will I kill the bike or myself while riding?

>>973629
What the fuck is cycling socks?
Should i also a cycling spoon to eat my cycling porridge off of my cycling plate, before i go to cycling sleep in my cycling bed wearing cycling jammies?
This fucking consumerism society is getting ridiculous.

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How do I do up a seatpost clamp like this? Will a bolt and nut from a hardware shop be okay? What would it even be called if I wanted to find a bike-specific one?

>>973653
>How do I do up a seatpost clamp like this?
The seatpost clamp is built in, you just need the bolt.
>Will a bolt and nut from a hardware shop be okay?
Yes
>What would it even be called if I wanted to find a bike-specific one?
"Bolt" and "nut". You won't find bike specific ones because it would be pointless to make bike specific ones. It's literally just a bolt and nut. Likely a standard M5 bolt.

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can anyone tell me anything about this wheel I found it in the trash and as far as I can tell its not broken but i'm a novice so I don't really know what makes a good wheel

>>973659
Is Mx the diameter in mm? The inside diameter is _about_ 7.5mm.

>>973667
It says Shimano so you know it's quality.

Sorry. There's a store franchise that actually uses that line to peddle their BSO's.

>>973667
A bike rack isn't the trash, Jamal.

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>>973653
>>973659
No - a bolt from a hardware store is a bad idea, you could damage the ears of your seatlug. What you need is to go to a bike shop (or shop online) for pic related, it's the proper seatpost binder bolt.

>>973667
Look very closely at the rim for signs of damage, especially cracking at the spoke nipples. It's a decent wheel, whoever got rid of it probably had a reason.

>>973640
The spacer doesn't need to be strong to resist any force, it's just a washer that sits between the adjustable race and lockring.

>>973674
>No - a bolt from a hardware store is a bad idea, you could damage the ears of your seatlug. What you need is to go to a bike shop (or shop online) for pic related, it's the proper seatpost binder bolt.
I have bikes with that style seatpost clamp that use a regular bolt. One is a high end carbon enduro bike. It wouldn't have a regular bolt if that would do any harm.
>>973669
Not sure, probably. I just know M5 is a common type of bolt used on bicycles.

>>973667

Go put it back where you "found" it, asshole.

I got a new to me Trek MTB last week and took it on a few short rides, then yesterday went 40 miles. My hands are still weak/numb today. It doesn't have front suspension and also has bar ends that I ride on 95% of the time. My old bike had front shocks and normal bars. Is this just an adjustment period to get used to it or should I be worried about Carpel Tunnel? Would taping my wrists help, even though that would look lame, or will it be less painful the more I ride this bike?

>>973712

Sounds like a fit issue, but yes it may just be an adjustment period. It wouldn't be a carpel tunnel thing - it would be an ulnar nerve thing. You need to ride with a relaxed upper body & grip.

>>973712
>I got a new to me MTB
>It doesn't have front suspension
Sorry m80. No, you didn't get a MTB. You bought a hybrid and you probably paid way to much for it.

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>>973712
How wide are your bars? Bar ends used to be really popular back in the day but bars were also much narrower back then.

I recently bought some for my flat bar road bike and even though that has quite a narrow bar (haven't measured it but probably around 600mm) they were just too far apart to be comfortable. I ended up moving them so they're in between my grips and brake levers and it's about perfect.

Pic related, not mine but you get the idea.

>>973674
Thanks for the advice will double check once im home again the wheel actually just looked dusty like someone had it sitting in tge garage for a long while

>>973714
I ride on a MUP, and I paid 75 bucks for it.
>>973713
Thanks, I actually think I need to move the bars down a tad and raise the seat a bit.

>>973716
The bars are pretty narrow, narrower than my old bike. It is hard to ride on the bars, but I do it with my wrists upside down for a few minutes to relieve the pain. Gonna try again tomorrow and if it gets worse I might just put my old bars on it.

I have a 1986 cannondale st500, i am sick of road bike pedals, i want a platform pedal, something easier to use with regular shoes, preferably vintage to go with the bike.

Any recommendations?

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Not sure if this question is better for her or /fit/
I want to get a bike for the purpose of replacing running, because i enjoy having working joints.
Are there any good books/websites/videos on beginning programing for conditioning, speed, distance etc.

>>973750

MKS Urban Platforms + half clips or full clips.

>>973754

The Cyclists Training Bible

>>973641

Fuckin lol

>>973750
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/token-alloy-track-tk458-flat-pedals-w-toe-clip/rp-prod58132

>>973444
>see image of circle on white background
>thought this would be hot unlabeled underground bleeps
>instead its jam band fedoracore probably made entirely on native instruments mascheme sound packs
disappointment/10

>>973641
cycling rant/cycling-ten

>would cycling read again

>>973545
Superstar only sells from their own site - that's their 'thing'. If they are charging too much for delivery, try these instead: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fire-eye-hot-candy-pedals/rp-prod119683

Superstar used to sell that model before, and it got good reviews.

>>973566
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/nicolai-mojo-geometron-first-ride-2015.html

>>973614
Beater-ising a beater bike is a valid anti-theft measure. There's nothing to regret.

>>973677
>High-end carbon enduro frame with built-in seattube collar
What bike is that?

>>973788
Whoops, the pedals I linked there have a resin body. That seems to be more popular at the low end these days, though I never really cared for it. If Superstar won't ship for a reasonable cost and Wellgo V8 Copies are a little beneath you, try link related.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/dmr-v12-flat-pedals-1/

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>>973274
looks kool

>>973583
wouldn't it be best to cut it?

My chain will slip gears in my easiest gear when I try shifting back up, meaning it will shift, then the chain will the struggle for about 3 seconds before it moves up to the next gear, but it has no problem down shifting. How do I fix this?

>>973832
Shifting to larger sprockets is accomplished by tightening the cable;
if such shifts are slow, the cable is not tight enough--
turn the barrel counterclockwise to tighten it.

Shifting to smaller sprockets is accomplished by loosening the cable;
if such shifts are too slow, the cable is not loose enough--
turn the barrel clockwise to loosen it.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

>>973832
>>973836

If increasing cable tension does not solve the issue, you may also need to turn in your B-screw to increase the distance between the top flywheel and the cogs.

>>973840
>>973836
Wait, so I should be decreasing tension, right? I had problems shifting from my easiest, smallest sprocket into the next, bigger sprocket.

>>973843
Whoops, sorry, I fucked that up. I meant to say I have problems shifting from my easiest, largest sprocket into the next, harder smaller sproket

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Does anyone with an Edge 520 know if it's possible to start a ride, pause it, start and finish a second ride, then resume and finish the first ride? I.E. ride out to race site, do a race, then ride home, without having the to and fro rides separate?

>>973849
I have a 510 but it's similar and that's not something you can do.

However I'm pretty sure you could stitch the files together somehow after the fact. Or record it all as one then cut it up.

>>973763
Terrible rec these are sharp af and dig into regular shoes.

>>973840
B tension would cause problems on downshifts, and problems upshifting require decreasing cable tension. Please refrain from replying with nonsense.

>>973843
Yes, but you should also check that your hanger is not bent. Do not change anything else. Find somewhere to hang the bike with a rope so the rear wheel is suspended and you can test any changes easily. A new chain would also improve shifting.

>>973849
Nope, not that I know of. You will have to do 3 different rides.

Are helmets gay? Are kickstands gay? Can you leisurely ride on a road bike? How hard does a surface generally have to be in order to ride a road bike on it?

>>973911
Also what else is gay?

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>>973913
Not having an overweight Belgium dude to shave and massage your legs after riding is pretty gay. Body hair below the neck is gay. Not having your personal bitch to ride for you whose ass you sit on all day is gay. Holding a bottle with your thumb pointing up is gay. Never or always wearing a helmet is gay. Being interested in women 'cycling' is gay.

>>973920
oosh, takes a lot to not be gay nowaday

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>>973921
Keep making ur excuses homo, me and my boys will slay all the puss

I have worn out my ultegra big ring after 4.5 months on my new bike. Put on a new chain because the old one started to be inconsistent, jumping around a bit. Put on the new chain and now if I accelerate on the big ring I just drop the chain right off. I read that the ring wears together with the chain and its better to replace the chain more often, every 1500km or so and then you can wear the chainring further down while still being able to use it properly. Sounds reasonable, but is it true?

And should I get an ultegra or a 105 chainring? Ultegra is 100 euros and 105 is 70 euros. I dont care about the colour difference between the ultegra crankarm and 105 chainring.

>>973926
>I read that the ring wears together with the chain and its better to replace the chain more often, every 1500km or so and then you can wear the chainring further down while still being able to use it properly.

How much distance did you cover in 4.5 months? What the fuck were you riding through, mud and metal baths? Do you ever clean and lube it?

Usually the wear/replace order is chain > cassette > chainrings, and yes, it will save money in the long term.

The ultegra chainring is lighter. Any other differences are going to be very minor.

>>973928
4600km, on road, I did ride in wet conditions often so there was a lot of mud but I cleaned and relubed it each time it started sqeaking/being dirty.

>>973926
Get a $5 chain stretch tool and change your chain on time, you should get ~5 chains to a cassette and ~15 chains to a set of rings.

You'll also want a new cassette, rings, chain, maybe even jockey wheels. If you don't change chains on time they fuck up all your shit. A new crank might be cheaper than 2 rings.

>>973931
Ive got a new cassette already for mountains, I will also be replacing the jockey wheels because they are badly worn out too. Small chainring is fine as I barely use it on the mostly flat terrain where I live, I really only use it when I get below 30kph which only happens on the steeper hills and those are short.

How long (~km) should the big rings last if I am to go through 15 chains in that time? After how much kms should I be changing a chain?

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>>973932
1000-5000kMs per chain. Depends on a lot of things.

Get one of pic related, it's not a guessing game.

>new cassette for mountains
>rarely use small ring

u wot

>>973935

I live in a mostly flat area so not much small ring action here, but I will be going to the alps this summer to do some climbing. Figured an 11-28 cassette would be more pleasant than my current 11-25.

>>973937
hmm hmmm i see, sounds fun

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What do you guys think of this new smart bike kickstarter project: the SpeedX Leopard?

>>973941
Eh, it looks alright, but It's not something I'd choose.

Those brakes are probably garbage (looks very similar to the vias which was not well liked by the pros for that reason), and integrated stuff means more problems when it brakes. The rear light looks feeble too and I like to have it on all the time, not just at night.

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>>973941
> “““““Smart””””” anything

>>973945
>implying getting feedback from your ride's data and a GPS aren't useful features

>>973948
Those are useful features I already have on my garmin

which I can take off and put on other bikes as needed

>>973949
Fair enough, but those are still technically "smart" features, they're just integrated in the bike itself instead of on your garmin

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were can i get good black tires with this brown gum wall in 700x25

these vittoria rubino pro are great but only come in 23 this color i think

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>>974020

so i have a 90s mtb, can i just lower the quill stem? or do i need something else?

>>974031
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErUafGLsdGU

is it that easy?

>>974031
>>974035

Yes, it is that easy.

If you make a large adjustment, you may also need to re-adjust your cables to compensate.

>>974020

Panaracer Pasela

>>974028
mmmmmmm

old bikes are shit compared to modern ones but I can appreciate this

Any idea if there are lactose free whey protein bars available?

Would ask /fit/ but cba looking at naked dudes.

>>974045

>Whey is left over when milk is coagulated during the process of cheese production, and contains everything that is soluble from milk after the pH is dropped to 4.6 during the coagulation process.[4] It is a 5% solution of lactose in water, with some minerals and lactalbumin.

Unlikely.

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How often are you *really* supposed to eat on the bike? And also whats the best thing you guys eat? I've heard every hour, every 45 minutes, etc etc. I've been bringing along granola bars, but I sort of want to try out gels.

>>974040
ok, thanks babe

>>974048
It's on a spectrum of how intensely you are riding. On a training ride 2 h or longer, I would usually take a Nature Valley granola bar and have a quarter of it every 30 min. On a shorter ride, I would take a sports drink (OJ, water and a pinch of salt) and no food. Gels are only necessary for extreme efforts, such as race conditions. All of the energy is contained in sugar, so solely using them to support a long ride is unwise.

anyone know if there is such a thing as a small chainring that you can fit over the square taper of the BB thru-axle thereby transforming a double crankarm into a triple? or anything like that?

if so, what's it called/search term? thanks.

>>974072
The granny ring is nearly always attached to the middle ring and not the chainset. If you can get the BCD to match up you might be able to make a redneck-rig with the wrong chainline, rubbing granny and all kinds of kinks.
But dude, just get a tripple. A basic chainset is €30.

>>974072
I highly doubt such a thing exists, not only is there no real need for it (that's why triple cranksets exist) there's no really anything to keep it in place on the axle (stop it moving side to side). I'm not even sure if there's be enough space on the axle to fit it or if it would give a reasonable chain line.

>>974076
I've seen some middle chainrings with a granny pinned to them (I have one that came with a really cheap double) but usually the granny ring attached to a smaller bolt circle (64mm for most 4 bolts, I think 5 bolts are something like 74 or 96).

>>974072
>>974076
>>974080
Also just found this:
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/middle-ring-for-gc-triple-crankset-34t.html

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This part fell off my bike and nobody has a replacement (and it's going to fall off again anyway)

It should be easy to re-adjust it so it doesn't matter if that part was there to begin with, right?

The guy at the store just locked my front derailleur and is waiting for the part to arrive, but I don't even want it.

All it did was pull the chain up a little bit.

>>974028
>Panaracer Pasela
grand prix are niceee but little expensive

>>973750
I'm running MKS Lambdas and loving 'em. MKS has several good options that aren't priced as outrageously as aftermarket MTB and BMX platforms and are still a step up in quality from Wellgos (but some Wellgo models seem OK IMO)

>>974090

>It should be easy to re-adjust it so it doesn't matter if that part was there to begin with, right?


It's fine, yeah.
That's a chain-keeper. It just keeps your chain from falling off when riding over very rough terrain. Usually only found on downhill/park bikes, and these days even most of those just have a clutched derailleur instead.

>>974072

Look for a triple-izer chainring. Rare but they work if you have a wide enough bb to make up the space for the granny

>>974100
Is there a way to make sure it doesn't fall off again? I've got crazy glue in mind.

>>973750

Pinned platform pedals. Better than any vintage setup

>>974104

blue loctite would be best

>>974104
Is that round hole threaded and a bolt goes through that to hold the roller on? You could use Loctite/thread lock, if you don't have any then any sort of adhesive will work.

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>>973712
Is the size of the new bike different than your previous/other bikes?

If you are angled too much too front and your center of weight isn't above your seat and pedal-range; you will fall forward... leading for your arms to counter that...

Check your posture and if it fits the sizing of the frame. Or adjust the height of the seat and/or change the angle of the stem if that's possible.

>>973539
Superstar are based in the EU (for now).

>>973913
Full info on all things gay at the linked timestamp
https://youtu.be/hqIYmYBNYxE?t=9m12s

>>974031
>>974035
It is that easy, but don't lower it too much: the internal diameter of the steerer tapers down towards the bottom. If your stem slips upward from that position it will lose all purchase on the steerer.

>>974090
It's a chainguide roller. It's there to keep your chain on your chainrings over rough terrain. If your chain doesn't come off when you're not using it, you can discard the entire chainguide for marginal weight and efficiency gains.

>TFW my bike tire was fine when I rode into work, but when I rode home, there was a giant bulge in it, and then it exploded.

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>>974103
>triple-izer chainring
wow, yeah, that's exactly what I want, but christ almighty Red Clover charges $91 for one, and of course then whatever the granny ring costs. My bike's stock crank is a 144 BCD which means my ring choices bottom out at 42T. This is total frownsville for hauling $70+ worth of groceries (including a 20lb bag of dogfood) home. Plus, I want to do some tours in the future.

I got the Mega-range freewheel on the back and I already had to invest in a long-cage rear derailleur to fit it. I'd rather just use my stock freewheel with a smaller ring up front but that means investing in a triple crank (not really a big deal money-wise but I already shelled out for the new RD…)

The real issue is that I just think my stock crank is neat-o. The arms are long to match my 63 frame and it looks period correct, I don't want a real modern-looking crank. My old stuff matches and makes it more theft-deterrent. It's called "Signature" and it has a signature on it--it's just cool but I guess it needs to go.

thanks for the info, though. You definitely called it. I'll search around, maybe there's a more reasonably-priced one out there.

>>974082
this looks like a triplizer but wrong BCD for me and the bolt-holes where the small ring goes are different sized? but thanks, I'll look more at this site.

>>974232
There's really noting you can do that will give you a good low range with a 144BCD crankset without putting on a derpy giagando rear cassette and MTB derailleur. And you're still stuck with the 42t, which won't be all that low even with big cassettes.

I don't think anyone makes a triplizer ring for 144BCD. Sorry to break it to you, but you need a new crankset.

Fortunately, there are plenty of 110/74BCD triples and some 110 BCD doubles that look similar to what you have there. Off the top of my head, the Shimano FC-M730 cranksets are plentiful and relatively cheap. FC-M6206, FC-MT60, and FC-M900 are all similar, abet rarer and more expensive. There's a variety of Sugino and SR cranks that also look similar.

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I need new mtb fork with suspension - 38 mm, threadless, for 27,5".

What are good budget brands/models to look around for ? I think I'd buy it second hand.

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How do you guys wrap your handlebars? Figure 8 past the shifters or just a simple crossover (like a half figure 8)?
This is my first attempt at wrapping, got a little tight in the tops but I got past the shifters easily enough

How'd I do?

>>974365
I would have wanted it cover the whole bar, for riding on the tops. As it is, the tape ends exactly where my i want to hold my hands.

>>974048
Hard candy if I don't stop, a sandwich with a small beer if I do. But since I've stopped smoking, I can do everything without stopping, except take a leak

>>974374
>except take a leak
Get on pro level

>>974375
“ON YOUR LEFT”

>>974232
>>974289
Only 144 option I managed to find was from Willow, good luck finding one for sale though.

http://www.vintage-trek.com/tripleizer.htm

>>974351
38mm, you mean 1.5" right? You sure that's what you need? That frame doesn't look like it has an oversized headtube or even tapered. If you are right then look at getting an adapter headset so you can use 1 1/9 forks as the straight 1.5 options are really limited.

Also have a look on Ebay, there's quite a few cheap tapered ones on there as the market is smaller or people buy them accidentally and have to resell them.

>>974390
>you mean 1.5" right?
dunno, I'm european. It's 38mm on both ends. I don't think it's tapered.

>>974395
>dunno, I'm european
Me too (for now), however a lot of bike measurements are done in inches.

Did you measure a fork that you already have, that fits the frame? If so then yeah it's 1.5" straight (you can easily visually see the taper and of course the top would measure smaller than the bottom). The only straight 1.5" forks I've seen are old Manitous (mostly Shermans, may have been others) which are junk and wouldn't fit 27.5 any way and then I think some of the newer 180mm forks are also 1.5" but obviously they're going to be rather expensive and too long for that frame.

Just use an adapter headset, either to straight 1 1.8" or 1.5" to 1 1/8" taper.

>>974374
>except take a leak
>not having Campy catheter strapped to the seat stem
Git Gud Filthy Casual....

>>974376
... eww

>>974401
Sadly I have no fork that fits the frame.
But I guess I'll take it to a 2nd hand shop/service near me and look directly.
Thanks for you info tho!

>>973309
>>973329
I found what I was looking for, no thanks to you guys.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/airwave-airblast-tubeless-tyre-track-pump/rp-prod142714

>>974351
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html
Where did you measure 38 mm from? It is very unlikely that that bike has a straight 1.5" headtube. Are you sure it takes 27.5" wheels? I think that would be the first rim brake frame I ever saw that takes that size.

>>974365
Looks nice. I like the aesthetic of bare tops. I can't make out whether you went the right way around or not though.

>>974401
No one's making straight 1.5" steerer forks any more.

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>>974469
That's a 26" wheel, the brake mounting point is higher. Has to be 27,5, right?

Could I have mistaken that measurement with the bearings diameter, which is 38?

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>>974474
>>974469
Also these measurements seem to fit my frame, altho here it says 26". Size M

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Does anyone have experience with Campagnolo-branded brake cables and housings? Just bought a set and the ferrules don't fit over the brake housing. Like I'm worried that if I push hard enough I'll just peel back the covering. The shifter housing is fine—it actually wiggles about slightly in the ferrule but what's going on with the brake housing? Pic related.

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>600 €
>carbon frame

should I pull the trigger ?
I´ve hadn`t have a bike for several years and know nothing about them

>>974564
>>>/n/bbg

H-hi, I've started cruising around the barrio and I'm just wondering if it's okay to ride on the sidewalk if there's no bike lane... I guess I'm just really stupid and self conscious but I feel like if I ride on the road then the beep beeps will get mad at me because I'm going to slow and if I ride on the side walk the leg friends will get mad at me because I'm going too darn fast. Thank you friends and sorry if this poast doesn't belong here..

>>974506
>the ferrules don't fit over the brake housing
I wouldn't be surprised if they needed Campagnolo® exclusive obscure-sized ferrules

>>974619

Plan your rides to avoid heavily trafficked areas.

Use common sense and be the most courteous road/sidewalk user around. If cars are around, do whatever is necessary to get out of the way so they can go fast. If pedestrians are around, go as slow as you have to to make sure they are not disturbed or surprised.

But if there are no good alternatives, assert yourself and take the road for as long as you need to - Go as fast as possible for as long as possible while you are there, then get the fuck out of the way.

I need recommendations one some relatively cheap 700x 28 or 30 tires to handle some fine packed gravel. I really don't want to risk running my conti 4000iis

>>974668

Paselas

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Is buying into any of the brand name 'sports drinks' a big fucking load? Am I better off just making my own electrolyte drinks? How many miles do people usually do before actually benefiting from bringing along anything besides water?

Is it a bad idea to buy secondhand high-end road wheels via eBay? I would prefer to use Craigslist of course and have a mechanic inspect them before a purchase, but my local area is shit

fug, pls helb :DDD

I'm trying to remove my fork, looks like there's some dumb shit here at the top preventing it and I can't fucking remove it.
I tried twisting, prying with a screwdriver, and pulling hard as I can. Not sure if I'm a dumbass who cant remove it or if its just part of the frame and something else is preventing the fork from sliding out of the headtube

>>974672

Yes, it is basically a bad idea.

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>>974674
forgot pic

>>974668
>>974669
Pasela PT are great. Non-PT Pasela are shit, constant flats.
>>974671
Water and Clif bars. Nothing else.

>>974619
Just ride on the fucking road, wear bright/high-vis clothes and have lights (or at least a rear light). Ride kinda near the curb, but leave at least 3 feet or so between you and the curb giving you room to swerve if you have to.

>>974048
Clif Shot Razz gels are great, try those. I normally just eat normal Clif bars though. Eat when you feel like you need the energy. If you're doing a really long ride (like 120+ miles) then sometimes it's good to eat even before you feel like you need it just to make sure you don't hit the wall. Try to take in as many calories as you're burning. So like 500/hour maybe. So if you're doing a 10 hour ride... bring 20 Clif bars, eat 2 per hour.
>>974045
Whey protein is shit.
>>974041
Stop recommending the standard Paselas. They're fucking shit. Constant fucking flats from every little piece of debris. The PT version of the Pasela, however, is a great tire.

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>>973941

>>973930
>>973926
Chains should last anywhere between 1000km and 5000km depending on various factors (how well you take care of your drive train, how you ride/how hard you ride, conditions you ride in, the chain quality, etc...)
Replace a chain when it reaches 0.75% stretch. You can get a chain measuring tool to determine this yourself, or stop by a LBS from time to time and ask them to measure your chain for stretch.
>>973932
>After how much kms should I be changing a chain?
When it stretches to 0.75%

>>974668
Panaracer Pasela PT, Michelin City, Specialized Nimbus...

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>>974371
I tested out my grip on the bars before taping and found that I never ride too close to the stem on the tops, but I can see why someone would
>>974469
Thanks, I liked the aesthetics too but made sure it was comfy. I did it according to a park tools video, switching direction after the shifters (twisting outward on the drops and towards the rider on the tops)

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So I just got my Tiagra 4700 groupset delivered to me a few days ago. I took it to my bike mechanic so he could install it and I wouldn't fuck it up by doing it myself. He handed my the bike this morning and after a couple minutes of riding I began to have problems with the left brifter. There is no ratcheting and no resistance when the big lever moves and the shifter doesn't pull the cable. If I release the cable tension, by undoing the cable clamp bolt on the front derailleur, and give a few clicks with the small B lever, I can then get the big lever to ratchet again (but it doesn't last if I refix the cable). I have already double checked the cable routing and that the cable is correctly inserted in the shifter and all seems to be correct. I took it back to my mechanic and he was just as puzzled as I was, and told me to leave the bike and call him tomorrow. Are the new 4700 tricky to install or did I just get a fucking damaged brifter? I bought it from ribble and won't stop pestering them to pay the return shipping to the fucking UK if it turns out to be defective. I was hoping to do a Gran Fondo later next month, so I guess I'm fucked.

>>974390
>Only 144 option I managed to find was from Willow

yeah, they've discontinued the 144 since that standard is so old. too bad because their other stuff is really reasonably priced. Red Clover does still make 'em but at that price I'll just replace the crank.

>>974289 I appreciate the leads on those model numbers, good looking out. these all share a standard with the square taper that I already have ? they'll all bolt onto my existing BB spindle/axle or are there different sizes for the square taper stuff?

also, when I get a smaller BCD, that means I'll have to lower the front derailleur (and get a new cable if the slack in the existing one isn't enough to reach) right?

concerning saddles: the listed width in mm is the widest part at the rear, or where exactly is the measurement taken?

>>974690


>also, when I get a smaller BCD, that means I'll have to lower the front derailleur (and get a new cable if the slack in the existing one isn't enough to reach) right?

you shouldn't have to lower it if the big chainring is the same size as the original

But remember your 2 speed FD might not work with the granny gear :( -- worth a try though. A lot of them work with triples

Remember also that you might need a new bottom bracket -- the granny gear might rub the chainstay otherwise. Again, worth a shot... but prepare yourself for frustration and test it out *before* you disable the bike long-term (if it's your main ride). A very small granny gear can compensate for the chainstay issue, but then your front derailleur is less likely to work :'(

crankset clues: go on ebay and just filter it down by triple / square taper / crankarm length. Sort lowest to highest, then watch out for weird BCDs that will screw you over. You can cross-reference the google for period correct cranks if that is your preference

Sugino cranks are a good, cheaper choice (watch out for their shit-tier models though)

Sometimes buying a beater on craigslist and ripping parts off of it will be cheaper than buying on ebay... it's a gamble if the bottom bracket on the beater is toast though.. or if the pedals are seized.

Good luck. home bike mech is a cruel mistress imho

>>974689
Read the instructions for your Shimano products: it says that you can take faulty products to any Shimano dealer for replacement. There's no need to send your whole bike back to Ribble (though their customer service is good, so you needn't worry about that if it comes to it).

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If I'm going to drop the bars relative to their current position by getting a higher (lower?) angle stem, how much should I increase the reach per the decrease in stack? Current stem is slammed, -6deg, 90mm long.

>>974690
Yes, all the model numbers I listed are square taper - specifically, JIS square taper. The differences between ISO square taper and JIS square taper usually don't matter... until they do. See http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html for some details.

Who knows what you have...

As >>974721 mentions, as long as the outer chainring is the same size, you won't have to move the derailleur around. You can definitely buy big rings for 110bcd, but the biggest you're likely to easily find is 50t - it's a very common size for 110bcd, and very slightly smaller than the 52 you have right now. So you'll have to adjust a little, but not a whole lot.

>>973378
>>973669
>>973926
>>974395
>>974686
>>974730
>No space between the number and the unit symbol
Please re-read the SI Brochure.

>>973935
>Abusing SI prefixes and unit symbols
Please re-read the SI Brochure.

>>974730
http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php

Does anyone have any spare referrals to the si brochure? I've been using public si literature, but it doesn't really have everything i want.

>>974620
They came in the pack so they _are_ Campagnolo® exclusive obscure-sized ferrules

>>974768
thanks, much appreciated.

Are 700c rims interchangeable between different tire types? Lets say someone had a roadbike, a 29r and a 29+, could they use the same rim and just change out the tire and tubes from ride to ride?

>>974791
obviously there are other things I'm assuming are the same from bike to bike (ie same brake system, same rear cassette.)

>>974791
700c and 29er are the same. The tires on those should be interchangeable, assuming of course proper frame clearance and such.
29+ should be be the same diameter as well, but might optimally need a wider rim. I'm not sure.

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>>974620
>>974785
Actually it turns out the new (>2011) Campag brake housings don't need ferrules. The ones that came with the cable set are just for the shifter cables.

What becomes of all the ProTour and professional team bikes that become outdated every few months? Do they get scrapped? How does one go about getting one at the discounted rate?

>>974808
They get given as bribes to local officials to allow soigneurs through border crossings with chilly bins full of vials.

>>974674
>>974677
You see that silver ring? That's a split conical washer, as you're trying to slide the black part up the steerer tube it's jamming against it. Push the fork up as far as you can and then tap the black part down and it should separate from the silver part, then slide that bit up on its own.

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possible to convert this to a 2x drive train from 1x?

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How do you deal with bicycle theft. Honestly it feels like I've lost a family member.

Why are dirty chains always dark dark pure black?

The lube is green and the dirt is brown

>>974848
Do you have record of the serial and stuff? Report it to the police, and there are various websites around as well. Anything local might be useful, too.

>>974853
There are bits of ground up metal in the mix as well I think?

>>974848
It's remarkable how emotionally attached people get to their bikes, myself included.

>>974848
Sorry dude that sucks. Just really savour it when you're able to ride i guess. It's too easy to wreck your bike, have it stolen or injure yourself so you can't ride.

>>974770
>http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
I understand that they will change in relation to one another; what I want to know is if there is a suggested amount of increase in reach that I should aim for with a corresponding decrease in stack. Like 1:1?

>>974792
>rear cassette
As opposed to all those front cassettes you often encounter.

>>974854
Police, local forums and Facebook have already been delt with. Now it's just mourning and trips to pawn shops/flea markets I guess.

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>>974847

It's hard to say, from just that image.

The seat-tube would have to be one of the normal sizes for a clamp-on front derailleur. I'm leaning towards a yes on this one, but I could be wrong.

There would also have to be a way to run a cable to the front derailleur. I'm not aware of any clamp-on seat-tube cable hangers made for that purpose. So you would have to use a bolt-on cable guide under the bottom bracket. This means there has to be a threaded hole for the bolt. If the bike doesn't have one, I believe it is possible to drill & tap the bottom bracket shell.

So like, yeah... it is probably possible. But you will need new shifters, a new crankset, new cassette, new front & rear derailleurs, a new chain.

And since you had to ask, I'm guessing you don't have the knowledge or tools to do much of this yourself. I would guesstimate the total cost of the conversion to be in the $600 range, assuming ~$300 for a new groupset + three or four shop hours billed. Could easily be a lot more or a lot less depending on shop and groupset. You could recoup some of the cost by selling your 1x group.

>>974791
700c and 29er diameter is the same, but rim width varies. Affecting the tire size that you can put on the wheel. "Urban" or CX rims should would be the most universal in that regard, as they fall in the middle of road and MTB rim width. Also note that frame rear spacing (ergo hub OLD) is different between road and MTB bikes (130 vs 135 mm), so you can't just swap a road wheel to an MTB even if the wheel diameter is the same. CX could be either road or MTB spaced.

>>974872
Well, you already can tell you want the bars lower, can't you tell if you want them closer or further? You can always give a ''''''''''professional bike fitter'''''''''''' $500 to have him tell you what you want.

>>974891

I thought road had gone to 135 hub spacing too?

I really doubt Shimano dealers in Mexikistan will honor the warranty. But I guess it's worth a try. Thank you!

>>974895
Okay, addmitedly I haven't kept up with the latest trends in road cycling. In case of disc brakes, definitely 135, but I think rim brake road bikes still use 130 mm.

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Guys i need an opinion on this bianchi.A friend of mine wants to sell it to me for 300$. Is it worthy.
Inb4 this is my first road bike and first time posting here.

>>974918
Looks kind of small, but in decent condition.
If you're looking for a first road bike, it fits you and you generally like it, i'd say it's worth it.

What's the difference between the Wellgo v8's and v12's?

>>974897
>>974891
>>974802
Thanks. That's pretty much the answer I was hoping for.

>>974873
As opposed to the chainring. I know it shows my ignorance, but I can't get my head to accept they aren't both called cassettes.

>>974921
Yeah i just asked him that... im 6ft. I goggled it but can't seem to find a bike i.d apart for it being a bianchi.Do you have any info?

>>974925
Just based on the head tube, it definitely looks too small far you.

>>974928
Ok thanks for the info...i guess i will have to wait till i try it myself

>>974922
Wellgos are copies of DMRs if you didn't know. I think the difference between the OG V8 and V12 is the latter has sealed bearings and that seems to be the same with the Wellgos. I think it used to be the case that the V8s were aluminium and the V12s were magnesium but now DMR do both models in both materials, not sure about the Wellgos but I'd guess both are aluminium.

DMR now make a newer improved V12 (still with both material choices) as well as a cheaper plastic V6.

I have a really old pair of V8s (DMR) on one I've my bikes and they're pretty good, they spin really well still (could be a downside to some) and they're really tough still having all the pins despite taking a good beating. Only downsides are weight and they cut up my shins, ended up getting some plastic replacements and dropped over 200g.

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>>973274
How the fug do I control my Ultra Torque Campagnolo shifters? These are the ones where you can do multiple upshift (up being easy-to-hard) as well as multiple downshifts. It seems like it will go one-by-one or halfway across the cassette, depending on how it feels.

It's a Veloce groupset, specifically.

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From the shimano tech docs Ive seen theres a new nexus 3 hub that has 2 underdrive gears(+disk brake option)+one direct drive gear.It seems to be marketed to the US market.
It also features a silent clutch mechanism compared to the standard pawl ratcheting one.

The very popular one here in Europe has 1 underdrive,one direct gear and one overdrive gear,Just like the classiv Sturmey Archer hub.

Any idea why the US nexus3 differs so much?

Also,anyone got any experience with the nexus 5?
Its seems to be a jap only product.

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Do latex tubes really make a difference and are they worth switching from butyl?

>>974965
Well the American version is going to get you lower gearing with the same chainring and cog combo so perhaps that has something to do with it. Maybe they think Americans are slow and weak.

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Are there hollowtech II bottom brackets that aren't utter shite? I'm about to scrap a shimano sm-bb51 that lasted just a bit over 5000km (~3125 miles) and don't have a good feeling of replacing with the same tech. LBS confirmed this. I even think about getting back to BSA. Mount-and-forget.

Is he peeing at 00:55?
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7tCtx_nN7g

>>974976
looks like it. lel

>>974968
Not really and installing them is a massive fucking pain in the ass. I'd rather glue tubulars than install another latex tube. Go tubeless.

>>974956
The shifter must be fucked. Each step down the cassette should correspond to on click of the thumb paddle, up to 5 in one motion. Each click should feel and sound very distinct. You may need to pay someone to overhaul the unit and replace the springs. Good luck finding someone who can do that. Good Campy mechanics are rare.

>>974970
So annual or twice annual servicing on a $20 part? I don't see the problem here. Also have you had your frame faced? That might make it last longer.

>>974968
They save about 1 or 2 watts per tyre, so they are objectively faster (albeit the gain is pretty tiny). Apparently they're more comfortable too, but I can't confirm that.

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Is it worth it to go tubeless for road riding or do the cons outweigh the pros? My primary concerns are weight relative to tubed clinchers, mess, and flat resistance.

>>975068
The only real advantage to having a tubeless setup on the road is protection from minor flats. Unless protection from minor flats is your highest priority, you're much better off investing in quality tires (standard tubed, or tubular) than going for road tubeless.

>>974791
All of those nominal sizes refer to rims of the same ISO 5775 size: 622 mm in diameter at the bead seat. They will 'fit' in a sense. The deciding factor as to the width of tyre that any given rim of matching diameter can safely accommodate is the internal width of the rim. No one rim will provide serviceable performance from 25 mm road tyres to 75 mm 'plus' tyres.
>Using tubes in the current year

>>974808
Varies by team. Canyon sell theirs from their website.
https://www.canyon.com/en/factory-outlet/original-pro-bikes/

>>974847
What is it, a bike for ants?

>>974848
Collect your insurance and move on.

>>974853
Aluminium oxide from drivetrain components.

>>975068
As much as I wish it wasn't so, it seems that tubeless for the road is something of a meme.

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bicycle bell vs bicycle horn which one is least gay

the other day I passed some lady walking her dog and she got pissed because I didn't make any noise as I came up behind her so she got spooked. I figure I should get a bell or a horn so I can ring/honk at people as Im coming to pass them

>>975085
Just yell.

>>975093
what am i supposed to yell

"coming up behind you"
?

>>975085
I think a bell is more quintessentially recognisable as a bicycle.

Even though my freewheel is loud as shit I still keep a bell on there anyway.

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>>975097
not "yell something"
just yell!

>>975097
>On path for the exclusive use of bicycles
'Ding ding' [passive-aggresively]

>On a mutli-use path
'On your right/left'

>>975119
>'On your right/left'
You're asking too much of people.

I get this rumbling feeling when I push down super hard on my road bikes. Could it be bb bearings? I doubt it's ever been serviced.

>>975232
bike** Singular

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>>975232
Yes it could. Take your chain off the ring and see if the cranks spin smoothly. Try gripping each crank arm against the chainstays and squeeze to see if there's any play or it makes a noise.

It could also be a lot of other things. What kind of crank is it? If it's something odd, then it might be worth seeing to it asap while it can still be cleaned and regreased. If it takes a common shimano BB, you'd probably just replace it with a cheap cartridge unit, so don't give any fucks.

>>975239
>What kind of crank is it?
I couldn't say. It's on a 2006 rocky mountain solo. Is it a doable thing to re-pack the bearings myself?

I found an Italian made Benotto with the Columbus SLX frame. Really like it, but I think it could use a repaint with new decals. What price is reasonable?

>>975241
You could say, you'd google the bike or take a look at it. It should be a FSA Gossamer Mega Exo bottom bracket (is the crank an FSA Gossamer?), which the internet leads me to believe you might be able to use a standard shimano hollowtech II BB in place of.

It's a cartridge unit and it cannot be repacked but replacement is cheap. As i said though, it could be a lot of other things and i'd try those tests to see. You might cause problems rather than solve them by replacing it.

>>975244
Generally you really want to avoid repainting a nice old frame because the paint is half the charm, and you nerf the value by doing so. Also repainting to a worthy standard is very expensive. You can make a big difference without completely repainting.

What price is reasonable? Who the fuck knows mate, that is not enough information at all. $200-$1400. Make sure it is the right size for you. They are quite lovely bikes and if you can get one complete with good parts, all the better.

>>975256
Thanks, lad, it is the right size as well! I might get some good parts for it and build myself a Frankenstein.

So repainting is that frowned upon? Here I was thinking it could be my pet project and all. Alright, at least I could tape the handle bars with some cloth tape and use shellac to cover it and make it look truly nice

>>975085

People like that are just looking for an excuse to get pissed off. They lack situational awareness to the degree that they are a danger to themselves and to others, and some part of them is aware of it and insecure. They are scared, so they get angry easily.

The problem is that if you take action to make them aware of you, they cannot be trusted to do the right thing once aware of your presence. They won't move over to the right or take any other action to get out of the way. Instead, they'll turn their head and shoulders around to the left to LOOK at you (it's a reflex from driving), which puts them further into your path of travel.

So by alerting them you've actually caused a problem, rather than preventing one.

The only trail users you should be alerting are cyclists that are pushing a good pace and holding a clean line.

>>975232

usually pedals crap out long before BB.

>>975283
>this shit again
FFS bike bells do not CAUSE people to jump in front of you

The purpose of a bike bell is not to push people out of your way moments before impact

You should be signalling WAY before they have any chance of doing any sudden moves

How long does it take someone who is completely not paying attention to hear a sound, process it, turn their head, see where it came from, decide what to do, and act?

It's not the 2 seconds you're giving them when you misuse your bike bell, I can assure you of that

Sure, you could also probably just not ring the bell at all, and that's arguably better in some cases, but if you're going to use a bell be sure to use it correctly and don't assign any magical properties to it that it doesn't have

>>975287
>Going this slowly

>>975287
>FFS bike bells do not CAUSE people to jump in front of you

That's exactly what they do.

I've been riding for 30 years and I have literally never seen a bell or an "on your left" elevate a casual/uncomfortable trail user to awareness. All it does is confuse the fuck out of them.

They understand that you are signalling to them, but they have NO IDEA what that signal means or how to respond to it.

>>975290
>going this fast on a MUP
Oh I get it. You're just afraid of cars.

My right square taper is acting up
It's an oldish Shimano 105 2*7 with oval biopace rings
New bolts? New crankset?

>>975291
>They understand that you are signalling to them, but they have NO IDEA what that signal means or how to respond to it
That's because you come zooming up on them at 25+mph and you startle the fuck out of them. Either signal correctly, or don't signal at all.
>30 years
Funny I've been riding about the same amount of time, just goes to show you how some people just never learn.

>>975294

Yes, it certainly does.

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How do I properly ride in my town when most of the roads are 45-55 mph zones and theyre all one line double yellows? Do I just stick to the right as much as possible and ride on the line? I don't feel like riding on the shoulder is safe either

>>975304
one lane*

>>975304

You don't.

>>975304
There's no satisfactory answer to this, unfortunately. I don't know if any american states have this, but where I live cars can legally pass bikes on a solid.

Riding all the way to the side (but not on the shoulder) encourages cars to dangerously pass you, and taking the lane more "encourages" them to cager rage you.

If there are roads you know are less trafficed then that might be a decent bet.

>>975304
Avoid such roads, or get a MTB and ride on the shoulder

>>975286
Pedals were JUST replaced.

>>975304
It's important to assert yourself. Get a bright red tail light and wear a yellow jersey (or anything bright). Keep an eye out for cars, but most will chose to pass you safely. And as for the double line, that's merely a suggestion. There's no law that says cars can't pass on a double line like that.

Is this bike worth the trouble?
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bik/5663483779.html

>>975398

If you have to ask, the answer is no.

>>975398
What trouble? Seems like a decent bike at a good price, if it fits your needs then go for it.

So I just got a new groupset with a 39/52 crank set and a 11-25(10 spd)cassette. I used to ride a compact with 11-28 (8 spd) on a bike that's 4 or 5 pounds heavier. Did I dun goofed? Should I start hitting the squad rack?

>>975431
you = dick head

>>975440
Unless you're climbing cat1 slopes daily, it shouldn't be an issue

>>975398
2 year old Deore/Alivio Cannondale with hydros for $600? I'd get it. Retail price is around $1500 though, not $2000 like the guy said.

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>>975304

that sucks

scope out google maps for back roads, most places have options where you can avoid long stretches on dangerous roads like those.

I ride downtube in the city. people think it's dangerous being around all those cars and chaos, but it's not, because they're going 20 mph and stopping constantly. Country roads are dangerous and have killed one of my friend's fathers

I'd say fast country roads are only to be ridden fast on a roadie bike. When I ride one, for a brief stretch during a tour, I say in the middle of the lane until I hear a car coming. Then I wait until I'm sure they see me, and move to the shoulder. But I'll go 30 minutes out of my way to avoid riding on a road like that, even if I'll only be on it for 10 minutes

Consider a rigid MTB or "gravel" bike that you can take down dirt roads / over fields if you are really out of options

Getting into MTB riding is cool too, but the lack of freedom of movement + needing a car to get to trails is a bummer imho

>>975496
>When I ride one, for a brief stretch during a tour, I say in the middle of the lane until I hear a car coming.
Zaktly. Gotta assert your presence on the road and not cower in the ditch.

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>>975304

also, maybe post your location and we can scope google maps for fun

Anybody got some videos on air forks? I'm looking through youtube and they're either too basic or too technical for what I want. I just want to see the insides.

>>975304

strava heatmap
let all the other plebs figure out the best roads to ride on for you instead of working it out yourself

>>975526
You gotta pay for that shit...

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>>975291
I think that people's reaction depends on the tone of the bell. I have three different bells, two Cranes and pic related. The brass Crane has a really high pitched ding, maybe even painfully high pitched for anyone under 20, and it seems to cause people to react randomly and kids to cry. The other Crane is enameled and strikes a lower and kinda somber note. People react okay to it.

Pic related was made in the 50s or 60s in Germany, and has a really pleasant ring to it, like a nice old telephone. People react incredibly well to it, and I think that maybe the sound is associated with bicycle in older people's heads.

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>>975552
An interesting theory. My take on it would be that the most common sound would receive the best reaction. That means using the most common type of bell and from my experience the majority of bikes these days come fitted with something like pic related. More common in the past would be something like what you posted (probably less common these days due to being more complicated and costly) that makes a longer ringing sound like a phone instead of a single ding.

Unfortunately I don't have a bell so I can't share my personal experiences, and being a fellow cyclist if I hear someone else's bell I always get out of the way regardless of the sound.

I've never used sti levers and want to try them out. I have a shogun that is 2x7. I've used the downtube shifters on many other bikes (indexed and friction). Although I like them and they work great, I'd like to try out the sti brifter style levers so I can keep my hands on the hoods . Would the Shimano tourney lever set be a good point to start ?

>>975529
Personal heatmap (which is not what anon was talking about) is part of premium.

Global heatmap is free here http://labs.strava.com/heatmap/

>>975560
>Global heatmap is free here http://labs.strava.com/heatmap/

different posted but holy shit thank you. This is awesome for planning long rides

>>975558

I have a friend with a similar bike who is going the 8 speed microshit STI route. From the reviews I've read they're not bad

I had no idea there were 7 speed STIs being made, but 8 and 7 speed cassettes are spaced the same, so you can run the 8 speed STIs just fine

>>975558
Probably be best buy a used Sora bike rather than defile a bike you like with Tourney.

>>975558
Campy 10 speed brifters work on shimano 7 & speed. And they're only like 80 bucks.

>>975558
Personally I wouldn't bother putting 7-speed STI's on your bike unless you can find some 90's vintage 105 or STX shifters in good condition. Shimano makes two styles of STI levers, most use two pivoting levers, but the low-end Tourney (and older Sora) shifters use one lever and one thumb-activated switch. Shimano's thumb-switch STI levers are nowhere near as comfortable to use and tend to wear out much more quickly.

>>975595
Yep, Shimergo is a fine option for the mechanically competent. Note that the combos that work together are C9-S7 and C10-S8. See this page for more details:
>http://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/components/transmission-gears/derailleur-gears/shimergo

>>975304
Look up 'vehicular cycling', it's a set of principles that answers your question and is the best option when there's no alternative to riding on highways.

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Halp! My rear brake grips fine,but doesn't release when I let go of the lever.
I've got to pry the calipers apart by hand.
I've tried lubing the whole thing, but that doesn't help.
Wat do?

>>975829
>Halp! My rear brake grips fine,but doesn't release when I let go of the lever.
>I've got to pry the calipers apart by hand.
>I've tried lubing the whole thing, but that doesn't help.
>Wat do?
Replace cables

>>975831
>Replace cables
I replaced them 6 months ago, and the front brake is fine.
I suspect it's the brake mechanism itself.
When I do pry them apart by hand, it's rather hard to do.

How freely should pedals spin? How do I go about setting up the optimal level of resistance for pedals?

>>975829
Is it both sides or just one?

>>975833
I advise against taking apart the caliper unless you really know this shit. Get a new set of brakes, anon. Don't gamble with your life on cheap or defective brakes. Also, it is also probably too tight, try loosening the caliper mount a little bit. But you should probably just get a new set of something like Campy Veloce or Shimmy Tiagra (4700).

>>975097
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=D0T4Yw-TabE#t=15

kind of a three-tier problem

>bike leaning when kickstand is down far more than it should, to the point where it will simply fall down if the front wheel isn't turned a certain angle
>rear tire rubs against kickstand
>rear wheel feels a bit loose

>>977238

You can get a new kickstand. A lot of them you have to cut after you buy them to get them around the right height

Yours might have come with a rubber stopper at the bottom that has since been lost

Rear wheel feels "loose" --- uh take it to a shop

>>977256
>Yours might have come with a rubber stopper at the bottom that has since been lost

Never had it in the first place, but how do I know the wheel isn't out of true? It was fine before I inflated the tire a few weeks ago.

It almost feels like the rear

>>977306
>but how do I know the wheel isn't out of true?


it's pretty easy to spot. spin it and look at it facing rear-to-front. if it looks wobbly, it's out of true. pay close attention to the wheel in relation to the frame stays and/or brake calipers. if the distance between them and the rim changes by more than, say, a centimeter, prolly gonna want to get it trued. if it rubs the brake, then you know what time it is.

a;so, thread past bump limit

NEW THREAD

>>976016
>>976016
>>976016