/wheels/

>>956025
>coaster brake or freewheel wheels OP?
freewheel

Yeah, I'm also thinking to build wheels, but maybe there's something nice I haven't laid eyes on yet. I'm more looking for a retro kind of look, since it's an old Italian steel frame with chrome fork, which reduces my options a lot in today's aesthetics.

File: dfbg.jpg (188KB, 1600x988px) Image search: [Google]

188KB, 1600x988px

>>956032
Thanks a lot. I think I'll stick to my original plan of going with some old Campagnolo hubs and Mavic rims.

Pic related is the frame. Just bought it on evilBay. It's an old Olmo with SLX tubing. Good enough to ride back and forth between university and my shit hole.

File: large_Pinarello1a.jpg (273KB, 1024x681px) Image search: [Google]

273KB, 1024x681px

>>956038
Thanks. It looks very good condition in pics. Will see in person.

I went to a local shop yesterday which had a Pinarello Montello in deep blue and even with fancy chromed lugs, kinda like pic related. I had never seen one in person until that point. However, it was very rusted on the lugs, bottom bracket and had some rusty spots here and there. The guy still wanted 220 € for it and I didn't want to take chances since I'm just a studentfag and that's a lot of money for playing Russian roulette.

>>956038
> bb is threaded the Italian way be sure to use threadlocker for the cup that usually loosens due to pedaling action

perfectly describes "italian craftsmanship"

you only have to thread lock the NON-DS

is this wheels general?

if so

I have a 2014 caad10, is it even worth upgrading wheels? looking in the $500usd range

>>956086
Jesus Christ, I normally refuse to respond to seig posts, and most of the time people should be able to figure out his shitposting as completely wrong because he manages to get things wrong more than half the time, worse than random chance, but I am for the sake of any anon that is not aware of how much of a clueless shitposter seig is.

You literally need to do the opposite of what he said. NDS are right-hand (normal, righty-tighty, lefty-loosy) threaded on both ITA and BSA. It is the fixed (driveside) cup that is reverse threaded on BSA.

>>956022
You've got two options. Depending on your rear dropout you are good to go with "fixie" wheelsets where you thread on a freewheel, because 120mm rear dropout. Then for 126mm or 130mm above you could use literalaly ANY wheelset out there with spacers and a single cog

>>956087
Depends on what you want to do with it, but I'd say no. Better save that money for a better frame. Alternatively get a 2nd hand frame and just transfer your old group set from the Caad10 over to the new frame. Will do much more than an expensive set of wheels IMHO.

File: Ambrosio-Nemesis.jpg (52KB, 500x333px) Image search: [Google]

52KB, 500x333px

>>956022
>>956037
With that gorgeous frame box rims is the way to go. Ambrosio or H+Son makes beautifull ones.
Ambrosio Nemesis is period correct, a Paris-Boubaix classic and very pro, though tubular. Which is also period correct and very pro, as it happens. PlanetX/On-One had a few left at a good price last I checked.
The H+Son TB14 is more modern, wider and clincher. More expensive, but perhaps easier to get a hold of.

Both are soft rims that will take a lot of road buzz out, but need to be built with a full 32 spoke count and butted spokes. DT Competition will be fine and help a bit with lateral stiffness, while Revolution will be like riding on clouds, look awesome and last a lifetime. I'd go with Revolution if you can stretch the budget.
Hub recommendation will depend on that OLD your frame accepts. If it's 126mm I'd suggest building a freehub wheelset and run a singlespeed kit. It'll cost you some lateral stiffness (though not a lot), but if/when you descide you want the geared setup I think the frame should have you don't have to rebuild the wheels. Something like the Miche Racing Box at €70 for the set and you won't have to look at a Tiagra/Claris branded hub on that pretty frame.
Build with a Shimano freehub and do a Shimergo setup with Campagnolo 10/11 levers and Shimano 9 cassette/derailleur. It's cheaper than full Shimano, better looking/classic shifters with better ergonomics, and you have a wider range of hubs, cassettes and spare parts to chose from.
You don't even need to set the frame. A 130mm hub will fit right in with finger force. It's 400mm of noodly steel that bends only 2mm at one end.

If you want a 120mm OLD wheelset I'd suggest the Miche Primato Pista hubs. It's a high flange, flip-flop hubset with good finish and a low price.

>>956087
Yes. The Cannondale frames are excellent and the whole reason anyone buys Cannondale. If you still have the stock wheels on there I'd say it's a great idea. Hard to give recommendations when you haven't said what type of wheel you want though.
High/low profile, stiff or comfortable? There are also modern mid rim profiles like the HED C2, H+S Archetype or Pacenti SL23 that try to combine the high profile aero advantage with the lower weight and better comfort of low profile rims, while also handling side wind much better than deep rims.

>>956178
I do have stock rs11 wheels on there right now. I have been putting in a lot of miles lately and climbing is one of my weak areas so I was hoping a little lighter weight and a mid rim does sound like a good choice. I don't think there is any reason to go carbon for this bike. Thing is I just don't know whats good or bad and where I could find a good deal.

Redpill me on Chinese carbon wheels

>>956191
don't buy fakes
most unbranded are unbranded OEM carbon wheels
different vendor different quality
ive seen more zipps fold in half than amazon/ebay carbon wheels

>>956189
Lower wheel weight won't make you faster on a climb because there's not enough weight to slow you down much to begin with. The difference between a good wheelset and very light one is only about a bidon.

Lighter rims however, even if overall wheel weight is roughly the same, will make the bike feel more lively and "faster". So it makes sense to buy lightish rims, tyres, tubes and tape(!) while going for overbuilt and stiff hubs with forged shells, hefty steel axles and cromo freewheels rather than alloy. This is why high end Campagnolo and Shimano hubs are still cup and cone, and relatively heavy.
Cup and cone wheels also roll with lower resistance under load than sealed bearings because of larger diametre bearings and races.

I'm a right Clyde and built up a pair of Pacenti SL23 on 105 5800 hubs with DT Revolution in front, and Comp/Champ in the back - NDS/DS respectively.
They're awesome. IIRC they came in about 1.9kg including tape. Which is only 2-300g lighter than your RS11 but all of that weight saving is where it affects the handling the most.
If you're not as heavy as me you could easily get away with a 24/28 Revolution front Rev/Comp front/back spoke count rather than my 32/32, taking you down to the 1.8kg range.

One idea I was toying with was using the centrelock disc brake Shimano CX75 front hub for a 28/32 build. That would allow an upgrade to a disc brake fork and front brake in the future, where it matters the most. I ultimately didn't, but I half regret not doing it now that hydro road discs are getting cheap. It allows a cheap and simple upgrade path to 11spd and hydro disc front by upgrading just the right shifter.
There's a very discrete rubber grommet for the CX75 to cover the centrelock threads, so it doesn't look that eye-catching when only using rim brakes either.

>>956191
I bought some really cheap no name chinese crabon tubulars, I think they were 400 bucks shipped, 38mm, I used them for 2 CX seasons, probably 3000 miles on the road, they are really light, ride well

they are pretty good although if I were to go back in time, I wouldn't have done that, seems like a silly gamble but they have taken a ton of punishment. Lots of CX courses around here have tree roots and I've wacked the rim on them a lot from too low pressure and they haven't gotten damaged or anything.

I used them

File: sheriff.jpg (131KB, 999x749px) Image search: [Google]

131KB, 999x749px

>>956174
H+Son rims are very nice. TB14 polished would be my pick, just to make that frame more of a theft magnet.

Campy 8/9 levers have that nice alloy, though, particularly the Record Titanium stuff. But the carbon levers still look good on steel builds.

I wish that Campagnolo would reintroduce stuff like that and the sheriff star hubs. White Industry hubs are nice and all, but not on the same level.

>>956215
One weird thing that I've had happen with lightweight stiff wheelsets is upsetting the balance of the bike. When I was still riding my old Bianchi aluminum SL frame, I went light and super stiff on my wheels and lost a couple hundred grams on the rear, and the bike became more tail happy and prone to being upset by lumps n' bumps. Dangerously so, as I later found out.

File: picture-23.png (860KB, 838x558px) Image search: [Google]

860KB, 838x558px

OP here.

>>956174
Wow, thanks a lot man! It's rare to get such solid and profound advice, especially on 4chan. I'd buy you a drink right now. You just convinced me to go with the Miche Racing box + TB14 + Revolution spokes. Pretty much exactly what I was looking for. The frame is 130mm by the way.

You really seem to know your stuff. This might be a beginner question, but could you point out the difference between tubs and clinchers in terms of ride feel, and perhaps give some recommendations for tires to go along with my setup? I was thinking gum-wall tires for the old school look (kinda like pic related), like Veloflex Masters or Vittoria Open Corsa SC.

cannondale guy here again

what do you guys think of these?

http://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/Road/Pro-Racing/Pure-Podium-Tubular-SL-1370g-700c-Wheel-Set.html

>>956334
>the difference between tubs and clinchers in terms of ride feel
There isn't one, or there's lots. It depends entirely on the specific combination. It's often said that a tubular wheel gives a better ride than clinchers, but that's due to a more supple casing.
It used to be said that tubulars rolled better, but they don't any more and the reason is the same - there are now high end clinchers with the same supple casing that used to be semi-exclusive to tubulars. Plus tubulars are often made with extremely light rolling latex tubes, while most people use thick, heavy and high loss butyl tubes. Modern clinchers roll better than tubulars all else equal, because shear forces in the glue layer give rise to losses. Quite substantial in the context, for some glueing methods.
It used to be said that tubulars corner better than clinchers that would flip-flop on the rim under side force, and that was true before we got 19/23mm ID/OD road rims. The TB14 is one of those.

Tubular wheels are still (sometimes a lot) lighter, the tyres less prone to pinch flats, more pro and offer an excuse to get high on the fumes of glue every so often. The first two reasons are why they're still popular with the pros, but clinchers are making their way into the tempo etapes where weight isn't usually an issue and the riders stand a better chance of avoiding pinch flats.

As for choosing tyres, keep in mind that the wide TB14 rims will inflate the width of any tyre you mount. If you want a 25mm tyre, pick a 23mm model. If you want a 28mm tyre, pick a 25mm model - and so on. GP4000s is known for running a bit on the wide side, but the 25mm model that measured 26mm on Shimano rims measure 29mm on my 23mm rims.

1/2

>>956334
>>956345

2/2
You've already found the Vittoria and Veloflex, but:
A personal favourite for a slightly subdued gumwall look is the Conti Grand Prix Classic. See pic. It's the same tyre as the GP4000-II, but with warm brown sidewalls and a vintage tread pattern (that is purely decorative and doesn't affect handling in the slightest). They're reasonably cheap for a racy tyre, and have the same superlative puncture and rolling resistance as their modern look counterpart. I think they manage to look classic while not being visually distracting or detracting or drawing attention from the frame. Like an aged, untreated sidewall tubular. Without the glue stains.
For an interesting classic bright gumwall tyres I'd suggest the Challenge Roubaix if you can fit them. They're very supple 27mm tyres that will give you lots of volume and plush for gravel and bad roads, but scarsely any puncture resistence.

There's also Compass tyres of Jan retro-gouch-extraordinaire Heine fame. Have not ridden and will not comment on Heines eccentricities, but they're very popular within a certain group of people.

>>956342
Alu freehub, noname/OEM catalogue shells and rim, front wheel spoked the wrong way around(!) in a whimsical pattern. Would not touch with a ten foot pole and the price is laughable. You can get real wheels for that price.

It's not hard to build a light rim or wheel. Building one that is still any good is another matter entirely. Those wheels have all the hallmarks of someone "engineering" a wheel that will sell well but not ride well. Including nonsense spoke pattern with the elbows in.

File: gprixc.jpg (54KB, 375x500px) Image search: [Google]

54KB, 375x500px

>>956346
Here's the pic. Forgot it when forced to split the post.

>>956346
>Conti Grand Prix Classic. See pic. It's the same tyre as the GP4000-II
No it isn't, stop making sit up. It's the same as the Conti Grand Prix. It's a mediocre 60tpi (180 in Conti marketing speak) tire whose only redeeming feature is black chili compound.

>>956360
You're an idiot if you think that's the same casing as a GP4000sII. You can literally see its not a high TPI tire because it's a skinwall.

File: Campagnolo-Athena-v-h-Set-Power-Shift-Ergopower.jpg (140KB, 1920x1080px) Image search: [Google]

140KB, 1920x1080px

>>956290
>Campy 8/9 levers have that nice alloy
Current gen Veloce/Athena 10/11 speed still do. And that pretty silver was exactly what I had in mind. I love the look of them on old steel frames as much as you do!

>>956361
>>956363
You're quite correct. I don't know how I got that confused. Still a pretty tyre though.

File: IMAG0080.jpg (2MB, 2688x1520px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2688x1520px

>>956022
I had a similar idea when building my bike's wheels. I went with 32 hole hard ano tb14 to polished Chris king hubs. Skinwall tires were also a must

>>956334
I have a bunch of clinchers and tubulars.
The most comfortable road tires I have are 26mm Specialized Turbo S-Works. They are probably the fastest tire I've used and the most grippy too.

I also have some Schwalbe One 28mm tubulars, it feels like I'm riding on wooden wheels with them. Completely awful. Horrible grip too. Last time I used them it started drizzling a bit and it felt like I was riding on ice. No grip whatsoever. I stopped using them after that.

Good tires, bad tires.
Some clinchers are very very good. Some tubs are very very bad.

Continental and Schwalble use butyl inner tubes in their tubulars. I also have some 25mm conti tubulars and they ride pretty poorly too, but not as bad as the Schwalbes.

Outside of CX, I can't really seem amateurs using tubulars being a wise choice these days with todays clincher wheels and tire options.

>>956507

That's quite a sleeper. 10/10, would cherish.

What brake levers are those?

>>956672
My commuter bike has tubs and I don't really see a reason to switch to clinchers. I seem to get flats less often with tubs than clinchers but that depends hugely on the tire. And the rare times I do get flats on the tubs changing them on the road isn't that much of a hassle desu. With a stretched tire it's faster than changing a tube to a clincher, at least for me. Obviously you gotta reglue them properly once you get home but that can be done indoors where it's warm and dry.

Added bonus of riding tubs almost everywhere is that people seem really surprised about it and think I'm crazy.

>>956694
Thank you anon, the levers are TRP RRL in all black. I should have waited for the alloy with the drillium and gum hoods

>>956892
No, those would look like shit. The ones you have are perfect.

http://www.wiggle.com/cosine-23mm-alloy-clincher-disc-brake-road-wheelset/

anyone know anything about these wiggle house brand wheels? I need some new training wheels for my cx bike

these seem really cheap and 1600g

Been thinking about the Weinman Dp18 wheelset. ANyone have any experience with these?

>>957014
Those are rims,son

File: no.jpg (57KB, 283x200px) Image search: [Google]

57KB, 283x200px

>>957014
>12mm inner
>almost 700g per rim
>last decades rim profile
Hell no nigga. That shit's rank.

>>957014
I was looking at those rims years ago. I remember the consensus being that they're very solid. A friend of mine has had them on his commuter for many years with no issues whatsoever as well.

Hi guys, got a rear mavic ellipse today, what do you think bout it?

File: DP18_b.png (101KB, 459x410px) Image search: [Google]

101KB, 459x410px

>>957672
Yes?

>>956363
How does amount of rubber on the sidewall determine the number of threads used to lace the body of the tire?

Sheldon browns articles explains the difference between gum and skin wall

Doesn't have anything to do with the body of the tire

Since they lace the tire\bead carcass first then coat in compound

>>957729
Because you can put a ruler next to a skinwall and count the threads. Why are you so retarded?

>>956507
>Chris king hubs
>hubs cost more than the entire bike
nigga wut

The guy with the caad10 here again

what does /n/ think of these wheels?

https://www.merlincycles.com/mavic-ksyrium-elite-wts-2016-wheelset-pair-84174.html?awc=4456_1464135387_5f8e84761de372fe341d581d88b8bb4e&source=awUS&utm_source=AffiliateWindow&utm_medium=AffiliateMarketing&utm_campaign=Awin

>>959863
Those are very nice wheels. What are you upgrading from? Shimano RS… Aksiums…??

The main question is: what do you want to get from this upgrade? This is the best way to determine if this is a worthwhile purchase.

>>959896
hi, I also posted these

>>956087
>>956189

so yeah, rs11 and trying to just make climbing and overall riding a little better... I do suck at climbing but this last month has seen some improvements with my overall physical level. I also have my 1st century ride in a few weeks and it will have some climbing in it. I kind of just want to reward myself for riding hard the last few months.

File: niggerbabby.jpg (27KB, 236x264px) Image search: [Google]

27KB, 236x264px

>>956086
Literally no one wants you here or IRL. Why do you persist on posting/living? Do you have no dignity or do you like abuse?

File: IMAG6677.jpg (3MB, 2688x1520px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2688x1520px

>>959852
So... they're over-priced no matter what you put them on. The king headset was a rip off too. They're exactly what I wanted.

>>959922
That's a great old bike.

>>959902
That sounds fine, very understandable.
But know that the RS11's are very servicable wheels. For doing things like a century ride they work great, especially with a good pair of tires (and especially if you're still on your stock ones).

But a wheel updgrade is a good way to improve the bike overall, wheels make a difference. If you are set on pulling the trigger on some new ones (and you live in the US), check these out:
>http://www.neugentcycling.com/product26.html

They will be even lighter than the Ksyriums, with a deeper, wider rim. They have a 20/24 spoke count and use Sapim CX Rays, which are the very best spokes. Also you won't likely run into anyone sporting them.

>>956507
>skinwalls
>brooks
>steel beater
Beaner Detected

What do you guys think of these:
>http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cosine-55mm-full-carbon-clincher-wheelset/

Is there a better aero option for the money?

>>959922
Why's the magnet so low (as in: close to the rim)? Wouldn't it be safer to put it near the hub?

>>959990
Likely not. You could find a China-direct set through eBay for less money, but not enough to justify the related risk of buying from an unknown seller.

>>960098
The greater the linear velocity of the magnet, the shorter the pulse duration and hence the greater the precision in measured speed.

>safer
What danger do you foresee?

>>960308
That makes sense in an intuitive way, but is it actually right?

>>960370
No. The sensor only registers the leading edge of the pulse. It doesn't wait for the duration of the pulse to determine that 'hey, a pulse'.
Still, there's no safety reason to mount the magnet anywhere else, and mounting it close to the rim means it ends up closer to the sensor because the fork tapers towards the crown more than the spokes do, means it can't get knocked out of place due to centripetal force if it's already butted up against the nipples, avoids ugly wire running down the fork blade and is simply the sensible thing to do.

File: IMAG0254_1.jpg (330KB, 1520x2044px) Image search: [Google]

330KB, 1520x2044px

>>960098
The instructions for this old thing called for the sensor to be placed near the crown of the fork. I just took it off because the battery finally died

File: IMAG0253_1.jpg (487KB, 1520x2325px) Image search: [Google]

487KB, 1520x2325px

>>960308
I don't have to worry about the magnet anymore. I can use my Garmin on this bike now.