/bqg/ - Bike Questions General

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>>951375

EAT SHIT DOWNTUBER

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>>951377

>>951375
Where can I get the best price on SRAM red cranks
Best I've found is 270 for bb30
Also what are the best chainrings for the money that work with SRAM red 22

>>951375
>!!Arpi3gG/zAe

>>951389
>>!!Arpi3gG/zAe
Problem?

>>951391
Yes.

>>951381
Yaw chainrings are designed to work with Yaw. The teeth have wider spacing between the rings so you can cross chain in small-small with no chainring rub. If you're looking for non-SRAM rings though, most people think Praxis compares favorably to high end Shimano rings, and obviously you can't put 4-arm rings on a SRAM crank. You may or may not get small-small chainring rub depending on chainstay length and the specific rings used.

>>951395
Additional note, the Praxis rings are not designed for the newer Red cranks with the hidden chainring bolt, most aftermarket chainrings aren't. That's an option for older Red cranks.

I recently bent the derailleur hanger on my canyon, and had to get a replacement fabricated because the shipping to my backwater country is 100usd. Said hanger also is the inner part of the dropout weirdly enought, and the replacement hanger's dropout is about .2 mm lower than the original part, causing the wheel to be slightly tiotednto one side. The disc brake caliper had to get re-centered, but otherwise its mecanically the same. Will this have any other effect on the bike, or is it irrelevant?

>>951475
How badly is the wheel tilted? 1 or 2 degrees probably won't make a noticeable difference but I guess it might wear the bearings (and the tire) faster on one side. Can't you file down the dropout a little?

>>951477
Yeah, the tilt is almost unnoticeable by eye. I originally only realized it was tilted when the brake pad seized the wheel.

Thanks dude, ill get a higher quality hanger nex time this happens then.

>>951479
I'll assume it's aluminium or similar soft metal. If it is just get a round file and fix it by hand. If it isn't you need a new hanger anyway because the point of having a separate hanger is protecting the frame. If the hanger is stiff and strong you'll damage the chainstay next time around.

Can someone redpill me on SRAM?

Which is better for beginners and value for money?

BTwinTriban 520 Flat Bar Road Bike - Sora
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-520-flat-bar-road-bike-sora-id_8322799.html

Or

BTwin Triban 500 Flat Bar Road Bike
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-500-flat-bar-road-bike-black-id_8322664.html

Thanks

>>951503
520 will probably be nicer to ride. Then again, if you're gonna go that cheap, you may well go with the cheaper one.

>>951399
Ty mate, guess I'll have to just get the new chainrings
I never cross chain anyway tho

>>951498
They make great stuff. The only reason they aren't as popular as Shimano is because Shimano has been around a lot longer so people know and trust it. SRAM makes better stuff than Shimano. Won't be long til SRAM becomes more widely used than Shimano.
>inb4 Shimano shills
>>951503
Both shit. Get one of these instead:
Marin Muirwoods 29er
Kona Dew Plus
Trek FX
Specialized Sirrus
Cannondale Bad Boy

I'm looking to get a new road bike and been looking at specialized 2016 roubaix sl4 comp disc. Did a test ride at my LBS and it felt comfy as fuck. But I'm not sure about the disc brake thing. I'm at 103kg so wheels kind of tend to eventually go out of true after hitting an uneven part in the road for me if the wheels are low quality ones. With a disc brake bike the wheel could go out of true without brakes touching the rim like they could with a cantilever brake.

I know disc brakes on road bikes are going to get banned but I'm only doing races where you can bring more or less any bike you want and mostly bike for exercise. The disc brake version is kind of pricey so I'm thinking of getting the cantilever one. The alternative is a specialized 2016 tarmac comp.

Which one would be the best to get? The roubaix sl4 with discs or cantilevers. A specialized tarmac comp and learn to true wheels? Or just go with the bike that feels right when cycling with it?

>>951567
>I know disc brakes on road bikes are going to get banned
Other way around. They were banned until recently.
If you have issues bending wheels, you may want wheels with double walled rims.
Not sure about your concern with disc brakes.

>>951570
>Other way around. They were banned until recently.
Some dude fell over and cut himself on a disc brake in a race so it seems the probability of disc brakes being approved is really low.
>If you have issues bending wheels, you may want wheels with double walled rims.
I see, that can help with the wobbling?
>Not sure about your concern with disc brakes.
Kind $1000 more expensive for the disc brake version. Non-US prices. I guess it doesn't really matter if I get better wheels. Still not sure if I should get the roubaix or the tarmac comp.

>>951475
That results in an angle change of ~0.1 degrees, and result in a deflection of the wheel ~0.5mm. If you want the simple math without the trig you can approximate it as such:

0.2*(622/2+23)/130

>>951477
Not nearly that bad, about an order of magnitude off, Anonymous.

>>951479
It's not signifigant unless it makes an inherent alignment issue worse, and back when bikes came with horizontal dropouts, I doubt people were able to get the axle within 0.2mm of where it should be consistently. It's the equivalent of getting it off by about half a turn of a dropout adjustment screw.

>>951480
The issue is damaging the dropouts, which may or may not happen depending on the design. It is fairy hard to damage the non-hanger part of the dropout because it is reinforced by the hub and the quick release.

>>951498
SRAM is grams.

>>951503
This belongs in the bike buying general (/bbg/)

>>951536
What is the issue with the stock RED rings? Also, you can get 3rd party chainrings to work, but the pins won't be in the right place, and you have to make sure the chainring width is the same or shimmed so the ring is parallel.

>>951555
This is why you never go full SRAM.

>>951567
Disc brakes will make having a true wheel of less importance, but rim brakes don't really cause wheels to some out of true. However, comparing like to like, disc wheels will often have more spokes which may improve the stiffness of the wheel and reduce the chance of them coming untrue.

Do not use the term race if it is not a sanctioned race. Non-competitive events are not races. Properly using the term race will get you more relevant replies in the future.

If you have issues with low quality wheels, you should make sure they are properly tensioned, and near max allowable tension on the driveside, and high tension on the front.

If you are buying discs to be futureproof, look at what standards the bike in question uses. It seems extremely unlikely quick releases are the future of disc brake wheels.

>>951570
Any bike at that level is going to have at least double wall rims. Single wall rims are what you might find on a very low end Walmart bike.

>>951574
Wider tires, and high and even spoke tension are going to be what helps keep a wheel in true.

Best place buy used bikes online? Looking for a cheap cyclocross bike that can handle hills well

>>951578
>SRAM is grams.
SRAM Red is lighter than Shimano Dura Ace. Get fucked, Shimano shill.
>>951574
>Some dude fell over and cut himself on a disc brake in a race so it seems the probability of disc brakes being approved is really low.
Perhaps, but they have historically been banned, so it's not like them being banned is a new thing. The guy didn't even get cut on the disc rotor though, it was his other leg. It's a false flag.
>I see, that can help with the wobbling?
It can prevent the wheels from being damaged. When heavy people ride single walled rims they sometimes damage the wheels.

>>951581
For a cyclocross bike (or modern mtb) check out http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/list/?region=3&q=cyclocross
For older bikes check craigslist, but you probably won't have much luck finding a cx bike there

>>951583
>muh grams
SRAM is grams. Grams are literally the only redeeming feature of SRAM for road.

>>951578
>Disc brakes will make having a true wheel of less importance, but rim brakes don't really cause wheels to some out of true. However, comparing like to like, disc wheels will often have more spokes which may improve the stiffness of the wheel and reduce the chance of them coming untrue.
I see.
>Do not use the term race if it is not a sanctioned race. Non-competitive events are not races. Properly using the term race will get you more relevant replies in the future.
There are like only 2 UCI sanction races in my country each year. Still there are categories in the non-sanction races where there is price money so I'd say there are competitive elements in them. What do you call such competitions? Well anyway I'm sorry for not using the correct term.
>If you have issues with low quality wheels, you should make sure they are properly tensioned, and near max allowable tension on the driveside, and high tension on the front.
Not sure I have patience to true wheels. I guess I need to invest in a truing stand.
>If you are buying discs to be futureproof, look at what standards the bike in question uses. It seems extremely unlikely quick releases are the future of disc brake wheels.
Yeah this worries me. Shimano disc brakes would be a safe bet I guess or something used on CX and mtb but still it seems like the wrong time to buy a road bike with disc brakes.
>>951580
>Wider tires, and high and even spoke tension are going to be what helps keep a wheel in true.
How wide are we talking? I'm think of going 25 or 28mm.

Thank you for your input. I think I'll skip disc brakes on this purchase. Will re-evaluate this in 3 years when I'll want something new.

>>951583
>Perhaps, but they have historically been banned, so it's not like them being banned is a new thing. The guy didn't even get cut on the disc rotor though, it was his other leg. It's a false flag.
Well it's a conservative sport so there is bound to be resistance. I'm neutral to disc brakes and find them nice on my commuter that's used in rain and other shitty weather.
>It can prevent the wheels from being damaged. When heavy people ride single walled rims they sometimes damage the wheels.
Ok thanks.

>>951591
My stance is that disc brakes are generally superior to rim brakes, but if you're not mountain biking then it usually doesn't make a whole lot of difference. I think most reasonable people will agree with me.

If I make and wear jewelry out of old bicycle chains does that make me a hipster faggot?
I don't ride a fixie, I don't have tattoos, I don't smoke or drink beer, I use a PC with Linux, and I wear a helmet. So I don't fit the hipster faggot stereotypes.

>>951619
>I wear a helmet
You fit.

>>951627
Are you downtubing retarded?

>>951619
>linux
>doesn't even smoke beer
the downtube is strong in this one

He's probably one of those downtubes who wears full bicycle clothing, helmet and shoes on a road bike just to get groceries.

>>951630
When I commute by bike, I do not wear cycling clothes or cycling shoes (unless it's a long-distance commute in which case I wear cycling shorts and jersey; I was commuting 139km round trip for a while last summer). I wear a helmet because I'm not a fucktard. I ride my hybrid or my OTS when I commute, not my carbon road bike.

Does anybody have that smug pepe on a bicycle with the shirt that says "Slow Your Roll"?

>>951586
Looking at SRAM for CX

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>>951668
Mmmm, 1x hydro disc Apex...

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>>951619
To people who think about 'hipster faggots' even cycling makes you a hipster faggot, sorry. It's not something worth dwelling on.

>>951678
wtf,he's not ever sporting
>Schwalbe professional bike tyres

>>951578
There's no issue, infant I love the look of the new black ones, it's just they're out of stock and $120 for big

>>951578
>>951770
The stock ones are 50-34t
I run 52-36t
Unless I can find a good 45t outer

>>951670
>not 1x force
What are you poor?

>>951377
this is the face of autism

ayyy, long-time lurker but noob question time.

Just changed my rear cassette and chain, my chain has fallen off a couple of times in my largest front gear. I think the teeth are a little pointy in parts, what's the easiest way to change that ring?

it's an old 3x8 set-up on a beater MTB.

>>951783
If your chainring teeth are worn you need new chainrings.
More likely though is that your front derailleur is misadjusted. If the chain is falling off on the outside you probably have to tighten your front derailleur high limit screw.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

>>951586
And adjustable reach. Useful if you ride crits in the drops and don't want the weight of di2/etap for sprint shifters
Also it's 'murican, so if build murica bike like a cannondale it's nice

>>951794
Shimano has adjustable reach.

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I have an old street bike, i think Puch from the 70', and the seat is kinda busted - when I ride it changes it's angle (gets an erection). The slits are all worn out so everything that should be holding the tension is flat, and no matter how much i tighten it, it still moves. Would pic related help ? Or should I just weld it to a fixed angle.
I want to sell the bike soon, and like to have the original seat.

>>951795
Not for shift lever only, and that reminds me of another thing, having small hands sometimes I'll accidentally apply the brake when shifting into the big ring.

But mainly weight and looks

>>951822
I find the reach for shift lever only feature incredibly useless. The only reason it really exists is so that the shift lever doesn't get stuck on the brake lever. You you set up the brake lever for short reach but the shift lever for long reach, it can hit the brake lever.

>>951842
Whatever I already ordered any it's much better and lighter than 105 so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Yeah I know it's Fred but I race so that kinda makes up for it

>>951844
>better
>lighter
>race
It's also only 10 speeds if you're counting groupsets below $400 like 105.

>>951842
>wtfamireading.jpg
Dude, the default _is_ it "hitting" the brake lever. Not matter the shift lever setting it will always ontact the brake lever when braking, it should contact the brake lever, theres a specially forged contact- and glide ramp for in on the inside of the brake lever, there is not way of it getting "stuck" against the brake lever and you have no idea what you're talking about. You're just pulling stuff out your ass to sound knowledgable - on an anonymous board. Reconsider your life choices.
The shifter can also be pulled in towards the bars with your fingers, which is very usefull if you have short fingers and want to do multiple downshifts from the drops. The brake levers also has a much more advantageous pivot point for people with small hands and/or short fingers.

For me, I find the individual reach adjust feature extremely usefull. YMMV.

>>951846
Do you even own SRAM? I'm not talking about during braking.

> there is not way of it getting "stuck" against the brake lever and you have no idea what you're talking about
Yes, there is. You can set the reach of both levers so it misses the ramp.

>You're just pulling stuff out your ass to sound knowledgable
I literally own bikes with Shimano, Campy and SRAM.

>For me, I find the individual reach adjust feature extremely usefull. YMMV.
No you don't because if you have tiny fingers, you're also making the brake reach short.

> which is very usefull if you have short fingers and want to do multiple downshifts from the drops.
You would have to have incredibly short fingers for this to be useful.

Yes, I get you just pressed the order button on SRAM and you read second hand descriptions of why SRAM is so great without comprehending them.

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>>951846
Thank you for proving you don't actually have SRAM and all your SRAM spam has just been bait.

If I was going to commute to uni by bike (it's about 16km I think?) would I need to organize a shower/change or clothes or anything once I'm there to avoid smelling like death all day? I don't think I'm particularly sweaty or anything, I've just never commuted by bike before.

>>951852
Depends on how hard you ride, the climate, what clothes you wear, your propensity for sweating and your mental tolerance of a little sweat. But generally speaking, you should be fine, i think.

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>>951850
>Yes, there is. You can set the reach of both levers so it misses the ramp.
You can also dial your derailleur so it doesn't shift properly. What the fuck does that proove? The point is you can have shorter reach on the shifter than the brake lever.
>No you don't because if you have tiny fingers, you're also making the brake reach short.
Thank you for telling me what shifter setup I find usefull. I'll defer to your authority.
You only have to reach the brake lever to brake. You have to swing the shift lever some distance away from your hand to do multiple downshifts. This means you have to reach much further. If you braked by pushing the brake lever away from you, your statement would make sense.
>you read second hand descriptions
Projecting. It suits you. Pic related.

>>951854
You went from saying it was impossible to backpedaling with a blurry photo of a bike that may not even be yours. Good job.

I also like how in that pic, the shift lever is right behind the brake lever, making the supposed advantages of being able to adjust the shift lever's real separately a moot point.

Good job faggot.

>>951855
Impossible if adjusted properly. Saying that you can make retarded misconfigurations of something and that somehow proves it's useless is just asinine.
You can adjust your brakes to the pads never touch the rim too. That doesn't mean the pad wear barrel is pointless. It means you're an idiot.
Shifter in pic is at its shortest reach setting, with brake lever at meduim reach. Pick is from slightly above (which is why you can read the text) and the shifter sits slightly to the inside of the brake lever. Perspective somewhat hides it, but theres a pinkie sized gap between the bottom of the shift paddle and the brake.

Sorry my not not timestamping triggers you, but I'm not even going to bother. You can reverse image search the pic all you want. It's mine, it's my bike, and the only one backpedaling here is you.
>hurr that might not even be your bike so ill cling to that straw and pretend im right
You know you've been pulling shit out your arse from the start. We both know it. Just accept it. It's OK anon, your retard antics on an anonymous tibetan woodcarving board doesn't reflect on your real life persona.

>>951857
>>The only reason it really exists is so that the shift lever doesn't get stuck on the brake lever. You you set up the brake lever for short reach but the shift lever for long reach, it can hit the brake lever.
>there is not way of it getting "stuck" against the brake lever and you have no idea what you're talking about. You're just pulling stuff out your ass to sound knowledgable - on an anonymous board.
>Impossible if adjusted properly
Backpedaling faggot. Good job. Didn't even read the rest of your bullshit.

>>951678
My god, he's cut his left knee up! Damn disc brakes. :(

>>951860
>backpedaling this hard
>shifting focus this hard
So, tell me again why there's no point to having shorter reach to a lever that you push away than to one that you pull towards you.
Good job proving you've never used or owned a SRAM shifter or understand why people appreciate them.
Stay ignorant, pleeb.

>>951864
I'm sorry I couldn't hear you over the sound of how decisively it was proved you're a backpedaling faggot and had to move the goalposts to pretend you won an argument on the internet.

What would be the perfect recumbent for climbing?

FWD?
What seat angle?

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>>951866
IOW you can't. Your butthurt is delicious. I'll savour it while I go out fishing with my Shimano rod. Have a nice evening. I know I will.

>>951871
>fwd
dat tire slip tho

>>951873
Oh I know I'd be fucked in slippery conditions/gravel

Just wondering though

>>951871
>What seat angle?
As upright as possible. But that will make it shit going down hill. Climbing and descending are not things 'bents do very well when it gets too steep and it seems odd to make that a criteria when choosing one.
Focus on what they do best instead.

>>951875
>descending
Is that because the bent will go way too fast?

>>951875
When will they make dropper seat struts for recumbents?

>>951872
>i was just trolling.jpg
Sad. We all know the real reason SRAM can't make fishing equipment.

>>951876
Yes, and you can't shift your center of mass around to control it. And if you put the seat up to climb without feeling as if you'll fall over backwards you'll slide out of it when you come over the top and go downhill.

derp, deleted my post - other side of the pedal had a plastic cap that was so snugly fit I didn't notice.

>>951619
If you have to ask.

>>951668
If you're into 1x for the simplicity and one less thing to clog up, then yes, that's something SRAM does.

>>951670
>>951772
Obviously he is poor. 1x Apex is 11 speed anyways.

>>951770
>>951771
High end big rings just tend to be expensive.

>>951773
I resemble that remark.

>>951783
Acquire tools, remove ring, attach new ring.

>>951785
If he didn't touch the adjustment of the FD when replacing parts his rings are still most likely worn if it didn't happen before. FD height is also important to not dropping the chain to the outside.

>>951794
>SRAM
>grams

>>951801
Just buy a new seat clamp for $5 and stop being poor.

>>951852
Please consider the fact that biking may not be the reason you smell like death. It may have to do with the fact that you are in fact, a zombie.

>>951871
A tadpole trike so you don't fall over, with tiny wheels and MTB gearing. People will wonder why you don't just walk.

>>951882
You need a special L-tipped screwdriver if there's no wrench flats on the other side.

>>951885
it's not just the clamp, Richie Rich

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Whys is this accepted?

>>951885
>If you're into 1x for the simplicity and one less thing to clog up, then yes, that's something SRAM does.

I'm considering piecing out a Rival groupset. Looking at 46/36 up front and 11/28 in the back. Pretty much I'm stuck with SRAM or FSA for cranks with the BB30 bottom bracket. I feel like my choices in cranks are better with SRAM and I might as well go all out with SRAM rather than FSA and 105.

>>951897
I wouldn't in a million years base groupset choice on the crank. Use whatever shifters and derailleurs you're most comfortable with and mismatch the chainset if you have to.
Or do this: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/wheels-manufacturing-bb30-to-24mm-crank-spindle-shims/

>>951904
I'm used to Shimano, I've never used SRAM.

I'm mainly trying to figure out which to go with, between 105 and Rival.

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question:

i have a bike (pic related) with SRAM Attack Grip Shifters and Deore XT derailleurs. i'm trying to adjust the front shifter, it appears like it does not have enough travel range, so it either wont shift down to 1 or the chain scrapes the outer side of the derailleur on 3. i checked the H and L screws, they are not restricting it. it doesn't look bent either. if i manually pull the wire it works.

are these components a mismatch? do shimano shifters have more travel range than sram, or can i adjust that somehow?

I have a Trek 1000 that came with a sora group and unbranded brakes. I got in a pretty nasty wreck a while back and broke the shifting on the right lever. I just switched to DT shifters and kept using the sora, levers for braking. The problem is that I really don't like how the old sora levers brake .
Would a cheap set of tektro levers improve braking enough to be worth it? I suppose the brakes may not be top notch, but they seem fine.

>>951783
>falling off on the outside

what the other anon said, sounds like you need to adjust the H screw

>>951852
i used to commute 12km (now only 3km but up a hill), here's what worked for me:

1) always change clothes. cycling in everyday pants is uncomfy, and getting into fresh clothes feels really nice after the ride.

2) do not wear a backpack. no matter how slow you ride, you'll always sweat under a backpack. just get a rack and a pannier bag. your change clothes go in that bag.

>>951914
I always ride with a backpack. It doesn't bother me at all.

>>951852
Wear deodorant and maybe bring a fresh change of clothes with you. Maybe keep an extra stick of deodorant in your bag with you. You'll be fine.

I commuted 10 miles to work in Los Angeles by bike and never really had a problem with sweat except for some of the hottest days. But mornings weren't really all that bad. Plus you'll get used to it and you wont sweat as much after a while.

>>951911
You probably won't notice any improvement. Your best bet would be to get better brake pads instead and set them up properly (no, toe-in is not a meme). Also remember to clean the brake surface on your rims every now and then.

>>951919
That's the thing though, I've recently done all of that.
The wreck destroyed my wheelset, so the new wheels have a very clean surface, I also bought koolstop pads when I replaced the wheels and adjusted them properly.
I just hate how the levers brake compared to an older set of 105 levers (1055 group) and even even old exage levers.

My brakes squeal like bitches, I will try cleaning with brake cleaner fluid, but what else ?

>>951928
toe-in

>>951928
Toe-in the pads. If you have cantilever brakes, be prepared to make adjustments multiple times.

>>951930
thx
>>951933
exactly cantilevers. The bike had stayed under a balcony-construction-site, and it was kinda dusty, didn't squeal before that. Thx tho.

How does the toe-in help exactly ?

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>>951921
I see. Well, I used to run Sora brifters and don't remember having any braking issues. In any case I doubt a cheap pair of Tektros will help. If anything, get "higher" end Tektros, like the TRPs

>>951940
This. I love my TRPs

>>951936
I think you should seriously entertain the ideo of a Shimergo setup. The braking and shifting ergonomics is why they got popular. Campagnolo brifters are also a lot cheaper than Shimano, so it might not even be that much more expensive than getting high end brake levers and sticking with DT friction.
>How does the toe-in help exactly ?
When you brake the force twists the brake arm a bit, and that causes greater pressure to be applied to the leading (rear) edge of the pad and next to no pressure at the trailing end. Pre-angling the pad the opposite angle evens out the force and applies equal force over the whole pad, increasing braking performance.

>>951945
>When you brake the force twists the brake arm a bit, and that causes greater pressure to be applied to the leading (rear) edge of the pad and next to no pressure at the trailing end. Pre-angling the pad the opposite angle evens out the force and applies equal force over the whole pad, increasing braking performance.

wow, interesting! Thanks, makes sense !

Anyone know where to find a rear hub that's drilled for 64 spokes? More specifically, one for a mountain bike, 135mm spacing with a freewheel, room for a 9-speed cassette, and a disc mount.

Google hasn't been much help. It seems I might be able to get one custom made by Phil Wood, but I imagine that'd get really expensive. The only others I've found are hubs for rickshaw wheels, which don't even seem to be available locally. From what I can tell, "low rider" hubs start at 72 spokes.

How do I know what bike do I want/need? This board needs a sticky, the sheldon brown page is useful but I still can't answer this basic question.

>>951958
Ummm, what do you want the bike to do? Where do you want to ride? How do you want to ride?

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>>951958

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dont wanna start a new thread about this but does anyone have any experience with this company? i think il do it as a summer job, this will also be my first job. fixing shitty bikes at walmart and canadian tire doesn't seem too bad.

>>951953
64 spokes? Literally what the fuck? QBP doesn't even have any available. Why do you need it? If you have one that needs replacing can you just find another of the same model? Custom is all I can think of.

>>951852
Not if you don't ride really hard.
>>951914
Nothing wrong with a backpack. I used to commute 69km (one way) and wore a backpack.

>>951968
sweet

>>951966
17 km (11 miles) from home to college everyday, combination of modern highways and shitty streets.

>>951953

Try asking on a tandem specific forum. People who tour on em tend to run seriously over built wheels.

>>951981
How much do you want to spend? Is it flat or hilly?

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>>951968
>hybrid
>only for under 10 miles
That chart is shit. Some hybrids are excellent and are fine for 100+ mile rides (and yes, I've done multiple 100+ mile rides on a hybrid).

>>951968
Oh. and
>off road
>rigid mtb with slicks
This is even worse. For mostly pavement but some off-road, on a rigid mtb commuter, semislicks. Not slicks. And for a more significant amount of off-road then potentially even knobbies.

>>951981
How shitty are the streets? Are they paved?
You basically have a few options:
>Old Ten Speed steel road bike from Craigslist (post in >>>/n/bbg to get help picking one) (good ONLY for pavement, and is a bad choice if you're an out of shape fat fuck)
>Rigid 90s mountain bike from Craigslist (Post in >>>/n/bbg to get help picking one) (you'll have to replace the tires with semislicks aka city tires)
>Hybrid such as Marin Muirwoods 29er, Kona Dew Plus, Trek FX, Specialized Sirrus, Cannondale Bad Boy
>Cyclocross bike such as Salsa Vaya, Surly Straggler, All-City Macho Man, Kona Jake
You probably want something compatible with a rear rack (not all of the bikes I listed are compatible, so if that's a priority for you, make sure to check before buying). That way you can use panniers instead of a backpack if you so choose.

>>951981
Old ten speed, cyclocross or fitness bike (aka. god tier hybrid >>951986 ;)

>>951981
Mostly flat, I'm not sure how much I want to spend, maybe $300-$400 but if I can get something cheaper would be great

>>951992
I'd be looking at either a single speed, used road bike, or a used cyclocross bike if I were you.

>>951992
Then you want to buy used. See the first two options in >>951990
A new bike for $300-$400 will be pure shit.
If you buy used, you might even be able to get something cheaper than that, leaving spare money for a helmet, pump, and lights. And a few basic tools if you want (always a good idea to carry a multitool and flat repair tools when you ride).
Post in >>>/n/bbg for help buying a bike.
If you are in reasonably good shape, like going fast, and ride 100% on pavement, you want an old ten speed.
If one or more of those three conditions does not apply, you want a rigid mountain bike with semislicks (NOT slicks, rigid mtb with slicks is a meme; semislicks are much better in your case).

You can also check out pinkbike.com/buysell but that is mostly modern, fairly high-end bikes, so even used will probably be out of your price range. But it's worth a look. Look for cyclocross bikes or hybrids there. (old ten speed or rigid 90s mtb would be best found on craigslist; cyclocross bike or hybrid would be best found on pinkbike)

>>951986
>>951988
You should redirect all that energy into making a better flowchart to be the new meme on /n/. That one's at least half a decade old by now.

>>951993
>single speed
Fuck off

>>952000
Why? There's nothing wrong with a single speed, especially if it is flat.

>>951996
>If one or more of those three conditions does not apply
Don't be so discouraging. If they're not in good shape, they soon will be.

>>951998
I actually already saved the chart with the intent to make a better one when I get the chance.
>>952001
Fuck off, stop trolling the newfags
>>952003
Yeah, I guess. Point is that someone who isn't an athletic type of person would generally be more comfortable on a rigid mtb with semislicks than they would be on an OTS. But an OTS will of course be faster and more efficient. It really comes down to preference.

>>952007
What do you have against single speeds? I'm not talking about fixed gears. Single speeds are a lot of fun and make sense for a lot of people.

>>952007
10 mile commute with no steep climbs? A single speed is absolutely not a bad idea.

What's the mountain bike equivalent of 105 tier?

>>952015
Shimomo delore

I'm new to fixing up my bikes, so this might be a stupid question, but;

I have these two mountain bike wheels + tires. Thing is, they're those fat ones (in width).

Can I put them on practically every frame? I wanted a light (racing) frame but I despise the thin wheels and tires they have (lots of bumps and hills). How about the gears, can you just hook them up to a derailleur (fixed gear)?

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>>952022

>>952020
Thanks. What's the SRAM equivalent of that then?

>>952022
No, not really, I used to rip around with 2.4 tyres until I got a dedicated race bike with 2.1 and my life has changed since then, as in spending 200$+ for a set of really good race tires with high tpi and low air pressure. On a good day I can get down to 21 psi and 17 up front. Technically you get more grip because if you spin fast enough there's more tread in contact with the ground than a slow fat tire.

>>952030
X5.

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Where the hell do I start with learning how bicycles are fIxed, and build?

I just want a simple, single-speed bicycle that I can be proud off. I'm used to second hand/stolen/half-broken down city bikes and I really want to just learn how they work, and not fuck shit up.

I guess my first question is;
>Can I just get any frame to start with? I like the look of retro frames with straight tubes/bars instead of curved.
>And do I need special wheels for single-speed bicycles?

Any good guides for beginners to start with reading up on? Books?
English isn't my native language either, if I'm make no sense.

>>952034
YouTube the channel parkbike tools.

>>952034
Basically the resources at the top of this thread. Read the fuck out sheldon brown.

>>952037
this

although I am pretty decent when it comes to mechanical things I still learn from youtube. I think sheldon brown is ok for some basic things like talking about different standards and what not you can find that stuff just about anywhere now.

>>952037
Thanks. I'll be watching that.

>>952039
Right. I've already bookmarked those and been reading Sheldon Brown.

>>951375
So /n/,
I use an old peugeot bike because europoor and now I have problems with the gears/chain.

The chain itself looks quite loose and it hits the chainstay in low gears (when not putting tension on it with the pedals). It also became impossible to pedal in the lower gears (smallest ring fornt/back) because the chain would jump al over the place on the casette. No problems when using the middle or the biggest chainring in front though, on those the gears shift smoothly.

What gives? Do I need to replace my chain or is there a problem with the rear derailleur? Maybe both? Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm still a noob.

Is there a site where I could order a 1mm cassette spacer from and have it shipped for free? I've only found said spacer on wiggle and the shipping costs like 10 times what the spacer does. And the chink shit sites don't have such specific things.

>>952045
Small things like this are what LBS's are best for.

>>952044
You probably have two problems: your freewheel/cassette isn't turning freely when you coast (is the largest cog rubbing on a chain protector?) and your derailer isn't adjusted correctly (could be a bent hanger, could be the low limit screw). You might also have issues with chain/sprocket wear, but those aren't the likely culprit for your immediate problems.

Hi,
it's a little bit more of a >>>diy question, but it's still bike related.

I decided to reinstall the dynamo (head+stop) on my old street bike, hoping to sell it soon to some hipster.

I removed my fenders, so I had to relocate the stop light, and thus had to extend the NEUTRAL wire to the frame. In hand I had just some thick copper wire, but now the headlamp shines like 30% of how it shined without the stop (and the said wire). Can the thicker wire, and it's higher resistance fuck up the whole situation ? It's dark now, and I work on my balcony, so I just can do research until next sunlight + free time.

>>952059
Thick wire has low resistance. Not the other way around.
You problem is likely to be poor contact or a short somewhere in the system, but it's impossible to say where. Post pictures and you might get a few reasonable guesses.

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>>951974
I want to double-lace a wide rim, not as large as pic related, but same idea. The photo is from an old Phil Wood blog post; the pictured hub doesn't seem to be available at present.

I'm a fat fuck and I'm tired of blowing out spokes while I crank my fat ass up steep hills. Hoping I can get more life out of a stupidly overbuilt wheel.

>>951984
Good idea. I had looked at tandem-specific parts. Most seem to top out at 48 holes, but maybe there's something with 64 on the used market.

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>>952061
Thx!
Tomorrow I hope to be able to buy a new wire and change the whole 'system'. I will also post results + photos.

>>952059
Pretty sure it's referred to as a ground wire, and chances are that it's a bad connection elsewhere.

>>952057
>your freewheel/cassette isn't turning freely when you coast

I just checked and it seems to work properly. There is no chain protector.

>your derailer isn't adjusted correctly (could be a bent hanger, could be the low limit screw).

The hanger doesn't look bent as far as I can tell and the adjustment was just fine a few weeks ago.

The chain is probably old as fuck but it looks a bit extreme for just wear, it looks like it doesn't have enough tension. My guess is that it might be the derailer. Maybe I hit something.

>>952015
Probably X7

I've been riding a fixed gear for a while now and recently decided to get a bike with gears. I got the bike for riding up hills and trails so the the front chainrings are 46/36 , if I wanted to get a bigger chainring like 50 to replace the 46 would it be as simple as just replacing the chainring and repositioning the from derailleur? Or would I have to get a new chain also?

Recommendations for jerseys and other gear that aren't boring as shit or generic? Looking for some nicer stuff to wear on rides

>>952169
What do you have in the back? 12-27? 11-28?

>>952170
Go to flea markets, I've found some funky ass 90's jerseys for dirt cheap

>>952169
It's generally as easy as installing a new chainring, though you might need to add a link or two to the chain to compensate. If the chain is already worn somewhat so that you can't put a new link in and have to run it short it will still work, but you'll have to be more careful to avoid crosschaining

>>952170
See >>951692
>>952169
You theoretically could use the same chain, but since it would be a bit too short, you'd have to be very careful to avoid crosschaining in the big chainring with the big cogs. If you accidentally do that, you'll jam your drive train and possibly break stuff. Best to replace the chain.
If you replace just one chainring, it won't be ideal because the ramps and pins are designed to be compatible with another specific chainring. The 46 and 36 are designed to work together. If you replace just the 46 it will still work, but the shifting won't be as smooth. That said, if you can find a 50t chainring of the same brand that is specifically designed for use with a 36t chainring, then it'll work well. Otherwise you'll just have to deal with less-than-ideal shifting.

>>952088
Not the same anon who answered you the first time, but...
Sounds to me like the chain is too long or like you have an issue with your rear derailleur. Could be that the derailleur is misadjusted or could be that the spring is shot and derailleur has to be replaced.
As for the jumping around, likely misadjusted derailleur or bent hanger. Check Sheldon Brown and Park Tool derailleur adjustment articles.
And if your chain is old, you should definitely replace it. If you keep using a chain that is stretched beyond 1%, you will wear out your sprockets, and then you'll have to replace everything. This will also cause your drive train to skip/jump. A chain will normally last 1,000-3,000 miles based on various factors. Stop by a LBS every so often and have them measure your chain (they should do it for free), recommended replacement is at 0.75% stretch.

>>952064
Blown spokes from riding (not potholes) are because of insufficient tension or bad seating. More spokes will not help. Build your wheels properly.

>>951885
>A tadpole trike so you don't fall over, with tiny wheels and MTB gearing. People will wonder why you don't just walk.
What kind of gradient can you climb if the wheels are truly miniscule?
Would 60% be a possibility?

100km in a day over 100% flat, 80% asphalted terrain with an e-bike, done by a non-cyclist but in-shape guy.
Doable?

>>952290
Easily.

>>952290
Twice.

>>952290
>e-bike
effortless

>>952291
>>952292
>>952294
great, thanks

>>952290
Just make sure your saddle is appropriately set up.

>>952224
Thanks anon, I will look into it.

It's an old bike, so it's possible that some parts are worn. The paint is scratched pretty badly too, so maybe I'll repaint it and replace the components while I'm at it.

>>952290
Make sure you get a soft seat cover to avoid hemorrhoids.

>>951375
I need a 135mm 10 speed rear hub for my CX bike. Non-disc.

Any recommendations? Preferably black to match the rest of the bike.

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>>952332
>not telling us spoke drilling
anon...
Assuming it's a SRAM or Shitmano cassette and QR skewer, here's your options from QBP

>>952337
Sorry about that 10 speed Shimano and QR and 32 spokes.

Where can I get affordable jerseys and bibs?

>>952338
Then everything listed as '32h' in the above pic will work. There's probably other options, that's just what QBP has available (QBP is generally where LBSs order from; you can't order directly from them, only LBSs can order from them).

>>952339
Aero Tech Designs. Stop by >>951692 if you want an /n/ jersey.

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Are these pedals any good?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/wellgo-single-cage-964-flat-pedals/rp-prod19605

>>952353
You just commuting? Wellgo makes good cheap pedals. I just bought the "V12 copy" from Chainreaction for my MTB, which is funny as DMR outsources the V12 to Wellgo, so their copy is literally pretty much the same thing, I've heard it's just slightly wider and heavier.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/it/it/pedali-flat-v12-copy-wellgo-/rp-prod665

these ones, in red.

>>952356
Do those work with clips?

Chinese carbon or what?

>>952361
No, I don't ride clipped in, I might have worded my post wrong but I wasn't suggesting those for that anon, just kinda throwing them out there as they're pretty cool flat pedals for MTB use, made from Wellgo.

I think that anon wants commuter pedals, looking at what he was about to get.

>>952170
AliExpress.
http://www.aliexpress.com/category/200005098/cycling-jerseys.html?spm=2114.01010208.2.6.k0VeGB

>>952338
I have a recommendation: buy a disc hub. There is no downside to it if you're buying a 135mm hub anyway.
I can recommend the XT 8000 hubs. Flawless, indestructible, well sealed and easy to build and adjust.
They're unfortunately not 11spd (road) compatible though, but that might not matter to you?

Beginner here, How do I don't look like an idiot in front of experienced riders?

>>952425
Pedal faster than them.

What would be better as someone inexperienced (I only know how to replace wheels, pedals and tires);
To build a bike completely from scratch (with absolutely no experience how), or to buy a cheap bike and use that as a learning base?

And, I frequently make trips to different cities and towns (around 20 kilometers back and forth), following highways but with no hills.
Would a racing bike be better suited for those rides than a normal city bike I use nowadays (it's not that robust nor quick)? Or some franken-combination of a racing frame + rising handlebars?

>>952400
>There is no downside to it

Untrue. You lose a fair degree of wheel stiffness when using a disc hub.

>>952436
>To build a bike completely from scratch (with absolutely no experience how), or to buy a cheap bike and use that as a learning base?
Solely for the sake of learning mechanical stuff? I would get an old (70s-90s) bike on Craigslist. Cheaper than buying all the parts separate, and you don't have to worry about compatibility issues getting parts separate. And with old bikes, they're pretty standard. Now with modern stuff you've got so many special cases and such. Back then yeah there's some variations like different bottom bracket styles and such, but you'll still have a pretty basic, standard bike, loose ball bearings etc. So just get an /n/ meme bike (OTS or 90s mtb), those are your best options. And then not only do you have a good bike to practice working on, but you'll have a fun bike to ride too.
>Would a racing bike be better suited for those rides than a normal city bike I use nowadays (it's not that robust nor quick)? Or some franken-combination of a racing frame + rising handlebars?
Racing bike, no. Road bike, yes, if it's all paved roads. Actually, the ideal bike for this can easily be the ideal bike for the bike you want to practice working on. Get an OTS on Craigslist, make sure it has eyelets for a rear rack, take it apart, clean it, re-grease the bearings, put it back together, now you've got experience working on a bike and you've got a great commuter bike. Post in >>>/n/bbg for help picking one out

>>951845
105 is 11 speed m8, selling mine for $400
And I'm getting the red 22 for $600 so

>>951850
You've been arguing with someone else m8, not the guy who just ordered SRAM (me)

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>>952369
I guess. Look for the relatively reliable brands like yoeleo that have reviews that you can look over. Honestly it's just a gamble every time you buy China garbon but you can minimize some risk by doing your homework and buying from a manufacturer that isn't run primarily by a monkey and a slave worker.

>>951885
Of course SRAM is grams, love that and the way it shifts
Wish etap was cheaper, but mostly wish it was lighter, why
Because SRAM is grams

>>952438
>Solely for the sake of learning mechanical stuff? I would get an old (70s-90s) bike on Craigslist. Cheaper than buying all the parts separate, and you don't have to worry about compatibility issues getting parts separate. And with old bikes, they're pretty standard. Now with modern stuff you've got so many special cases and such. Back then yeah there's some variations like different bottom bracket styles and such, but you'll still have a pretty basic, standard bike, loose ball bearings etc. So just get an /n/ meme bike (OTS or 90s mtb), those are your best options. And then not only do you have a good bike to practice working on, but you'll have a fun bike to ride too.
Mostly for learning, partly to have my "own" pride and joy.
Right! I'll take that advise in mind and get an old bike and try and fix that up.

>Racing bike, no. Road bike, yes, if it's all paved roads. Actually, the ideal bike for this can easily be the ideal bike for the bike you want to practice working on. Get an OTS on Craigslist, make sure it has eyelets for a rear rack, take it apart, clean it, re-grease the bearings, put it back together, now you've got experience working on a bike and you've got a great commuter bike. Post in >>>/n/bbg for help picking one out
Mostly brick and paved roads.
I'll take that advice in mind. What kind off road bikes are we talking about in this specific case (brands, models, etcetera)?

I've got the habit of getting too excited, buying a crapload of shit and never ever using them.
Hell I've already picked out crap that's passed the 1000 EUR milestone in what my "ideal" bike would be.

>>952455
>Mostly for learning, partly to have my "own" pride and joy.
>Right! I'll take that advise in mind and get an old bike and try and fix that up.

Good idea taking his advice. I tried building up a bike from a bare frame before I had the knowledge to know what I was doing. That's how you end up with a riser bar oury grip nashbar touring frame bike with carbon fork and cantilever brakes running to long-pull MTB levers. With $150 leather saddle to boot

::shoots self::

>Mostly brick and paved roads.

A vintage road bike usually has clearance for some fat tires. Good to have if you are riding over brick roads a lot. 32c is a great size for that if your rims are wide enough for those width tires

>>952465
Sounds like a fun bike.
Have any pictures of it? How'd it ride?

>A vintage road bike usually has clearance for some fat tires. Good to have if you are riding over brick roads a lot. 32c is a great size for that if your rims are wide enough for those width tires
Yesterday I took the two wheels off an old Peugeut mountain bike. The wheels were in great shape and the tires were new. No clue about the size but they're thick and they rode quit good. I'm hoping to reuse them.

>>952482
>Sounds like a fun bike.
>Have any pictures of it? How'd it ride?

No pictures. The brakes squealed like hell but I eventually got them to stop, even though I had the wrong cable pull

I did one 100 mile ride on it and was dying in pain from having one hand position, a 2" riser bar. I was gripping the drop near the stem for relief. Very painful even on 4 hour rides. lol.

I learned a lot. I have the frame and the A719/XT touring wheels back in action, saddle too... 6 years later. All the parts got reused or sold for a good price, so I guess it was a good learning experience to build a $1,500 bike that rode like shit

>>952437
Untrue. The NHS is always spaced inwards to avoid breaking spokes all the time. You might as well use that space for a disc mount.
The limiting factor in a rear wheel build is always getting high enough tension on the NHS. The fact that this can still be an issue with some rims even for disc hubs proves you wrong. Please learn basic wheel building before spouting bullshit, or at the very least look at a rear hub at least once. Even a picture will do.

>>952504
Are front disc wheels always dished?

Does anyone have experience with burley or croozer dog trailers? I need to get my dog to my parent's place once a week, and have to store it inside my tiny apartment the rest of the time, I'm just nervous to pull the trigger on 400 dollars.

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Is there more bikes like this? As in somewhat sporty, with aluminum frame and carbon fork, and with possibility to proper install of rear rack? Preferably with 105 and under $1300.

>>952538
I suggest getting a Sleepypod if your dog is small enough to fit, and finding a way to securely attach the Sleepypod to a bike trailer.
http://sleepypod.com/sleepypod
Much safer option for the dog than most other options.

>>952547
Nah, she's about 65 pounds.

>>952455
>What kind off road bikes are we talking about in this specific case (brands, models, etcetera)?
It's more whatever you happen to find. Craigslist is really hit-and-miss, so it's basically when you find a bike that's the general style you want, your size, reasonably good condition, get it. Make sure to get the right size, don't get too caught up in the other details to forget that. And keep in mind even if the bike is in good condition you may have to replace a few things. Especially chain, tires, tubes, and rim strips. When I got my old ten speed on Craigslist everything seemed great, tires looked in good condition, but it wasn't long before I got a blowout. Took something like 3-4 tubes and 2 tire boots just to make it home. Good thing I had plenty of tubes with. Not to discourage you from buying used, my point is just that you should expect to have to replace a few parts. Used bike on craigslist is still definitely your best bet.
If you get new tires, try to get tires that are at least 1 1/4" (or 32c) if they'll fit.
>>952482
If you mean re-use those tires when you get a new bike.. probably won't work. You'll have different wheel diameter if you get a road bike, and also less clearance for wide tires.

>>952546
GET STEEL INSTEAD
STEEL IS REAL

>>952505
Mine is not, but it has a dynohub plug on the other side.
>symmetric 4 lyfe!

I bought my bike (late 90s early 2000s Lemond Buenos Aires)
about five years ago when i was in high school. I've actually
grown a couple inches since then and the frame is a bit small
for me now. The bike's in great shape, I'm pretty mechanically inclined,
but I'm looking to get something about 4 cm bigger, because I've
definitely noticed some discomfort on longer rides. It's got a 105
groupset currently that's in good working order but fairly worn.

So my question is, what's the best way to go about updating frames?
Should I sell the bike as is and pick up a new one? Should I sell the
frame and transfer the parts? Also given that the chainrings and
cassette could probably do with a changing in the near future is it
best to buy a new groupset or replace the parts that are most worn?

Sorry for the novel but while I have a good idea of how to keep a bike
running I'm much less experienced at buying parts/knowing how to
get the most bang for my buck.

>>952568
It's a pain in the ass to transfer parts to a new frame.
First, you're limiting your selection cause you can only buy frames with the same tube diameters your old one had.
Otherwise you're gonna have to replace more parts, which is almost never cost-efficient.
Then you'll need to cut brake new lines to size since the old ones will be too short, same with shifter cables.

If your parts are valuable, you have the time, and you find a good deal on a frame, go for it.
If you find a good deal on a new bike, go for that.

And for the love of god, don't throw out a 105 groupset cause your chainrings and cassette are worn. Those are wear parts, cheap and easy to replace.

>>952588
*cut new brake lines

Baww!

I bought proper puncture protected tires for my commuter and they added an unexpected amount of weight right to the wrong place. Also, a strange pain has appeared to my right ankle witch appears whenever I pedal, I'm trying to take a day off from cycling, but that has proven really difficult so far, because I do most all of my commuting with bike.

What should I do?

>>952592
Both your problems disappear if you man up.
The alternative is spending money:
On lighter puncture-protected tires (I assume you're riding Marathon Plus right now, there are alternatives that weigh half as much).
And on a doctor's visit.

aside from my front wheel, I'm super paranoid of quick releases. Mostly for theft, partially because I never feel right if I got them clamped all the way. Is it easy to just buy a new rear axle/seat post screw or would i have to replace the whole wheel?

>>952622
You just need the skewers. Those aren't technically the axles. The axle is hollow, and the skewer goes through it.
Pitlock sells skewers for both wheels and seatposts that can only be opened with a special key. Buying hex skewers would only be marginally safer than a classic QR. Any bike thief would carry a 5mm hex.

>>952592
What tires are you running? Most flat-protected tires suck, the only one I hear good things about are Gatorskins (but I personally dislike how they ride).

As for the ankle, well, there's not a whole lot to do besides finding some way to rest and take it easy when you do get on the bike.

>>952622
You could use a bolt-on skewer or a locking security skewer if they make you feel better. But QRs work fine when properly tightened, and wheel theft risk can be easily minimized by using a proper U-lock + cable locking arrangement.

>>952568
I'd partially disagree with the previous anon, moving parts between frames is no big deal, just plan on replacing the chain and cables to compensate for the larger frame. Whether you'll need new chainrings and cassette depends on how worn your current ones are, but those are normal wear items on any bike.

>>952624
Learned more about my wheel now, thanks. I also thought of buying a star bolt instead, I use them a lot so adding it to my kit would be easy.
>>952625
I'll be honest, bringing, attaching, and undoing all that line plus carrying a u sounds like a lot of hastle. I'd rather just put locking bolts and skewers on most the parts since the only thing I take off is my front wheel anyways, and even then just when there's no room left on someone's car rack

>>952610
>suggesting someone make an injury worse instead of addressing itff

I have a geared and single speed bikes to cruise the city. I rode a ton of BMX when I was younger and really enjoyed it. I've been seeing the new fad of the 26 inch wheel cruiser BMX bikes. Even those looks small for my frame (6 foot 275) I'm not interested in a new project of the 29er style BMX bikes. What are those called? I like the BMX style geometry with the bigger wheels. I'd like to get one and start carving some pump tracks or local skatepark. Where should I start looking? What brands etc? . Thanks

>>952622
>>952624
I'm a pitlock user, and while I've found the skewers extremely effective in preventing theft, it's worth noting that they actually have LESS clamping force than a quick release skewer. The manufacturer actually advises against using them with horizontal dropouts, for instance.

While it's not as trivial as swapping skewers, you can replace the hollow skewered axles with solid ones and bolt on your wheels. That's a dramatic improvement in terms of clamping force, but admittedly not theft protection. Pitlock does make large security nuts for solid axles, though I've not tried them myself.

Pitlock for the seat post isn't a complete solution for seat protection. You'd need to add a cable to protect the saddle, as it can be detached from the seat post. It also depends on what saddle you're using. I don't have an expensive one, so I only see the need to opportunistic shitbags from taking it- for my needs, a "seat leash" cable does the job, and I can still adjust the seat as needed. Someone could still take the seat and post by un-bolting the saddle from the post, but I don't think anyone will bother.

>>952679
>don't think anyone would bother
Yeah tell that to the prick who stole my friends a month ago. Screw that cocksucker

>>952622
If you want old style bolt-on axles then you need new hubs but you can just get the skewers that require a hex key. That said, in high-risk areas you should be using two locks, so you can use a u-lock to lock the frame and rear wheel using Sheldon Brown's locking method (look it up) and a cable lock to run through the frame, front wheel, and whatever you're locking your bike to.

>>952672
If I understand you correctly, you probably want a dirt jumper. Basically a 29" BMX bike with front suspension (maybe they come rigid too? not sure).

>>952694
Yes but with a solid fork

>>952697
Why do you want a salad fork?

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Is the BMC GF01 105 2016 worth it ?
I can get it for 2400 instead of 3200
Is there a better bike around this budget ?

>>952708

A $2400 bike with an aluminum frame?
No, it's not worth it. Yes, there are better options.

The 2016 Cannondale Synapse Carbon is $2500 at REI - carbon frameset, 105, and specced with hydraulic brakes.

trek/giant/spesh probably have similar offerings, as will many other companies.

>>952699
Because in not going to be jumping it huge. I'd be using it to flow a skate park and do basic 180 tricks. I wouldn't utilize the suspension fork and would save me money?

>>952718
BOY THOSE ARE SOME SMOOTH ASS ALUMINUM WELDS

>>952720
I can understand a rigid fork, but having your fork be solid is going to be awfully heavy.

>>952723
Over a suspension fork ?

>>952728
Psst... solid and rigid isn't the same, he's fucking with you

>>952588
Wasn't gonna throw it out, my plan was to replace the worn parts and sell
the groupset to get money for a new one, but if you think I'm better off
keeping the 105 (probably couldn't afford a nice groupset anyway) I will.
Do people generally expect you to replace worn parts before selling?
The BB has been making a bit of noise recently and I'm wondering
if I should change it before selling or let them deal with it. Basically,
will the money I spend on a new one increase the resell value of the
bike proportionally?

>>952708
>BMC GF01

I disagree, I like aluminum frames. Nice ones can be lighter than shitty carbon. Giant TCR frame I have in the basement is ridiculously light (and uh... cracked)

But for $2,400 you could build you own

* 105 group: $400
* Soul 2.0 wheels $500
* sick frameset... I dunno $500?
* bars, peds, saddlez $300

Saved you $500 and you got a lighter, higher cred vehicle for yourself you're welcome

>>952708
>Giant TCR

Hell here's a TCR with all the same shit for $1,500

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/tcr.slr.2/18727/76099/#specifications

>>952738

>105 group $400

kek

> sick frameset... I dunno $500?

lol


Little out of touch with reality there m8.

It is never cheaper to build a bike than to buy one with the components you want already on it.

>>952679

The punk method is glueing ball bearings into your hex bolts on the stem cap, saddle bolt, and seatpost clamp bolt.

There's a certain glue, I can't remember what, this is really hard. You have to dig at it for 10 minutes to get the bearing out. Heat helps I think

Once you get the fit dialed in there's not much of a concern until your saddle explodes on a long ride

That + pitlocks is good for shitty neighborhoods. I always do sheldon rear-wheel lock with the smallest U lock I can manage. Front wheel is the main risk but cable locking it is an option

There are people making a living stealing nice bikes and parts in some cities

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>>952743
>Little out of touch with reality there m8.
>It is never cheaper to build a bike than to buy one with the components you want already on it.

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>>952746
>Dat effort on the text
Gosh, anon.

>>952749
>Gosh, anon.

you lost. Because you a Fred pleb who can't wrench. Eat shit m8 ^_^

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>>952756
I have no clue what you're talking about. I'm not even the cunt who you responded to.
Just commended you on the effort you did on the text.

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>>952746
>dat text
I haven't been following the argument so I don't know whether you're right or wrong, but...
REKT
E
K
T

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>>952746

>>952743
>It is never cheaper to build a bike than to buy one with the components you want already on it.

I dunno anon. I just picked up a Raleigh XC1.0 frameset for $250 that looks like it had been ridden maybe 5 times. A new wheelset and 105 group will be far less than buying it off of the shelf.

>>952768
That's because you are comparing used parts to new complete bike.

>>952768
Could you specify exactly what puts five rides a part from... oh, I dunno, a hundred and fifty? Are there rings like in a tree or something?

Okay, so I get a frame that looks like it was ridden less than most shop floor bikes, and build it up with brand new components and still pay less. So what?

Look around for a frameset in great condition and build it up the way you want and you'll probably end up having even better quality components than you would buying it off the shelf. It doesn't come with a Thomson stem, thomson seatpost, fizik saddle, and custom wheelset.

Just saying. I mean don't get me wrong, I understand the point you are making as well. Just pointing out other options.

>>952772
A new 105 5800 group does cost about $400 anons. Check Evans.

>>952776
>I just picked up a Raleigh XC1.0 frameset for $250 that looks like it had been ridden maybe 5 times
That implies used.

>>952776
Chain reaction cycles has it for about that too, plus free shipping.

>>952777
>It is never cheaper to build a bike than to buy one with the components you want already on it.
Sorry, m8. I didn't see where that specified the frame being brand new.

>>952774
Point being that it was gently used and looked great, no need to go full autist. I wasn't trying to give an exact number.

>>952780
It doesn't specify that, but you can find a complete used bike cheaper than the one you're planning to make. If you want to build a bike, do, it's a great thing to do if you know what you're doing. Just don't pretend you're saving money that way.
>>952782
And my point is that fucking obviously a lightly used bike is going to be cheaper than a new bike, even if the former you buy as separate parts and the latter you buy as a complete bike.

>>952718
>>952738
this one is carbon though
and i'm in Europe, it's in euro but it's pretty much the same shit

>>952745
Haha, brings back memories of doing this on disc brake calipers that wouldn't clear pitlock bolts. I used solder instead of glue, though it didn't always stick so well.

It's certainly an economical approach. If the sides of the hex bolt are exposed, though, it can be beaten with visegrips.

>>952783
Fair enough, wasn't trying to start an argument just trying provide another option.

>>952774

He's used to riding full carbon fred sleds that explode after 1,000 rides. You must understand

>>952787
>. I used solder instead of glue,
>beaten with visegrips.

I wanna know you

>>952776
>>952778

5800 is not a hydraulic disc brake group and so not relevant to this conversation.

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got a spesh power comp for a 5 day trial. gonna try it out tomorrow. anyone have it for a longer time? impressions?

>>952826

Interesting shape. Looks pretty uncomfortable for road/tri, and it's too wide for smooth transitions between seated & attack for MTB.

You would be better off with a Romin or Toupe.

>>951891
For what reason do you think a star washer would fix things then?

>>951892
Gussets or packing tape on stock photos?

>>951897
>>951904
You could always run an adapter or mix and match. Campagnolo also made a BB30 crank, and dedicated BB30 and PF30 bottom brackets.

>>951906
Grams.

>>951908
If it's a Shimano compatible shifter, it should be compatible. Lots of bikes came with Shimano gears and SRAM shifters. That was how SRAM entered the drivetrain market.

>>951911
Why do you think swapping the levers for even cheaper levers would increase braking performance? Either readjust your brakes or upgrade your shoes.

>>951921
You are being extremely unarticulate when you say you don't like how the levers brake, because levers don't do any of the braking, they just pull a cable.

>>951928
Clean the pads.

>>951936
It only really helps when freshly adjusting pads or before pads have broken in.

>>951940
That's disgusting.

>>951945
>The braking and shifting ergonomics is why they got popular.
No it isn't, that's one of the worst things I've read today.

>>951953
This is dumb.

>>951958
When in doubt, hand over $400 to your local bike shop and walk out with a Pure Fix. It's not like you'll know any better.

>>951970
You will be working with idiots, and you get paid per bike assembled, so there's no reason to do a good job

>>951977
>>951915
>backpack

>>951984
And they still don't need 64 spoke wheels. Also many of the specialized tandem hubs are not 135mm.

>>951986
You would walk 100 miles barefoot on hot asphalt littered with shards of glass too.

>>951988
Semi-slicks aren't needed at all for a little dirt as long as your slicks are sufficiently wide.

>>952008
Riding a single speed is about as fun as riding a geared bike without touching the shifter.

>>952015
SLX. Deore is Tiagra tier, not that there's anything wrong with it. Even current Alivio looks good.

>>952020
>delore

>>952022
No.

>>952031
He was asking is they would most other frames.

>>952830
>>You are being extremely unarticulate when you say you don't like how the levers brake, because levers don't do any of the braking, they just pull a cable.
>wat is pivot

>>952034
Just buy a Pure Fix. You deserve it.

>>952044
Was it always that way? It could be the chain was replaced and never shortened.

>>952045
You can use a BB spacer. If this is for a Shimano 10 cassette, just buy a second cassette, and reuse the spacer when it is time to replace.

>>952059
Most likely a short, or a worn wire or bad connector with high resistance.

>>952064
Just build a better wheel. 36 spokes, double butted, or straight DS, butted NDS is plenty durable when brought up to tension.

>>952169
No you need a new chain or risk exploding your bike.

>>952170
Mapei

>>952219
This is a recipe for exploding drivetrains, and not worth trying to save $20 by not buying a chain.

>>952266
More spokes will in fact help. That being said even Ernest Gagnon only uses 40 spokes.

>>952277
60% still isn't as steep as a flight of stairs.

>>952290
>with an e-bike
>Doable?

>>952332
Literally anything. A disc mount isn't going to hurt you. Only an actual spinning sawblade of death, which you don't have to mount.

>>952353
They're not plastic if that's what you're asking.

>>952356
Wellgo also makes shitty cheap pedals.

>>952361
No, you generally need a pedal with a flat front, or a platform pedal designed with clips in mind. Those holes are just for reflectors.

>>952369
If I had to pick between the two, I'd pick what.

>>952370
>I don't ride clipped in
You what

>>952425
By not being an idiot.

>>952426
Pedaling 150rpm while going 15mph will make you look like an idiot.

>>952436
If you wish to make a bike from scratch, you must first buy a set of tubing to build your frame.

It's really not that hard, but it is possible to screw up. Double check to make sure you know what you;re doing before you do it, or start off with something you don't mind messing up.

>Would a racing bike be better suited
If you're just riding to ride

>Or some franken-combination of a racing frame + rising handlebars?
Die.

>>952840
>Just buy a Pure Fix. You deserve it.
Is that good or bad?

>>952840
>If you wish to make a bike from scratch, you must first buy a set of tubing to build your frame.
>
>It's really not that hard, but it is possible to screw up. Double check to make sure you know what you;re doing before you do it, or start off with something you don't mind messing up.
I meant by buying a frame. Not welding my own frame.

>If you're just riding to ride
I'm riding to travel, quick, and without any real luggage.

>>Or some franken-combination of a racing frame + rising handlebars?
>Die.
Why so? I meant bullhorn by the way.

I just wanna say I'm glad you're back, AF.

>>952848
y-you too

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>>952842
>>952845
>replying to the retarded tripfag
>pretending any insight can be gained
>even reading his typed out vomit

>>952439
>105 is 11 speed m8, selling mine for $400
Why would anyone buy used for more than the price of new?

>>952443
Or counterfeits.

>>952445
SRAM is grams

>>952455
>brick roads
Something with tire clearance

>>952465
Too bad it wasn't fatal.

>>952486
You're a bar end.

>>952504
>NHS

>>952505
Usually. Wider flange spacing means a stiffer wheel, generally speaking, so they can usually sacrifice some spoke tension balance for stiffness. Remember that a front hub starts off from 100mm, not 135mm, so the room for a disc will eat into the area normally used for spokes.

>>952546
That depends on what you mean by sporty. But if that's what you want, just wait for a sale, or use one of the everyday 10% off codes.

>>952547
Is it bad I only know those from QB commercials?

>>952551
How do you know steel isn't just an illusion like everything else?

>>952568
Bikes are usually worth more in parts, but then you have compatibility and cables to worry about. If the consumables are extremely worn, they're usually worth more on a bike than off the bike though. That being said, bike frames are also expensive by themselves. When selling a bike, consider it may be worth parting out, but buying complete.

>>952588
>diameters
What? Are you counting fork/headset as components and not part of the frameset or something?

>>952592
It's probably the rolling resistance, not the weight you're feeling. You deserve this suffering if you simply treat your bike as a utilitarian tool.

Also, if you keep riding before something heals, it can become a chronic issue.

>>952622
Security skewers.

>>952625
>Gatorskins

>>952672
Disc Jockey bike, for adults that act like kids.

>>952679
>they actually have LESS clamping force
Depends on the QR skewer, but yes, they certainly have less force and a steel internal cam skewer.

>you can replace the hollow skewered axles
You should be aware that adjusting bearings is different on solid axles compared to solid ones

>>952684
That's what you get for having a QR seat clamp

>>952692
No, you can just replace the axle. It's basically a piece of threaded rod. I would not say that nut-on axles are much safer than hex skewers though, because fixies come with axle nuts and are ubiquitous.

>>952697
Then buy a Disc Jockey bike with a rigid fork, manchild. Do you need your mom to google that for you?

>>952699
He probably doesn't even know the difference between a salad fork and a dinner fork.

>>952708
/bbg/

>>952718
>aluminium

>>952720
Ask your mom if she will buy you a rigid fork.

>>952733
Ashtabula forks for everyone.

>>952737
>Do people generally expect you to replace worn parts before selling?
Some people do, and they will try to use it to negotiate the price. Some people don't realize bike parts wear.

>Basically,will the money I spend on a new one increase the resell value of the bike proportionally?
No, never. Unless you turn a broken bike into a working bike, or you replace a part that raises red flags.

>>952738
>aluminium

>>952743
How is a 105 groupset for $400 out of touch with reality you LBS shill?

>>952768
>used
>new

>>952774
That fact that it is used, has to be sold at a second hand price, and has no warranty.

>>952783
It's not impossible to save money that way, but it is unlikely.

>>952803
He means that you can grab the head with visegrips. That's why many security screws either have conical or domed heads or shrouds.

>>952834
Then say you don't like the shape or ergonomics.

>>952842
It means you can't figure it out on your own.

>>952845
>I meant bullhorn by the way.
Die.

>>952849
>!!3FMp104RXW9

>>952850
You're a fat, white, man.

>>952853
They'd buy it because it's everything, angular bb, full install, rs11 wheels, and an ultegra cassette

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>>952871
Also they're retarded

>>952871
>wheels are part of a 105 groupset
>sram red comes with wheels

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>mfw the whole thread went full retard

>>952861
>>aluminium

When England achieves sociopolitical dominance over the so-called free world, it can rename elements however it pleases.

Until then...

>Aluminum

>>952880
It already had.
Aluminium.

>>952881
hey guys, check out my platinium Rolex!

>>952877
I have flo 30s and have no use for rs11
I guess I could've mentioned it before but deal with it

>>952879
>calls others retards
>posts an 83x125 image
Full downtube.

>>952880
You do realize the issue was calling a carbon framed bike aluminum, correct?

I ride a 13 yr old carbon frame. never crashed. I am scared it will shatter one day on a normal ride. Are my fears unfounded?

>>952901
Pretty much
Just look for cracks after hitting large potholes ect if you're really concerned

>>952898

You do realize that the bike under discussion was not carbon framed, right?

>>952913
Cool. TYVMI for reply.

>>952901

Depends. The early lugs + carbon tube frames have had a modest failure rate over the years, but not really anything to worry about.

On the other hand, the early fully-composite frames like the Y-foils are practically fucking indestructible.

>>952915
>BMC GF01
>http://www.bmc-switzerland.com/us-en/bikes/road/endurance-granfondo-gf01_disc-ultegra_di2
>TCC 01 Premium Carbon, Angle Compliance Technology

>>952901
>Are my fears unfounded?
Not at all. Carbon rots aluminum. That BB shell, those dropouts, that fork steerer and crown...
This was poorly understood in the bike industry untill very recently, and still mostly ignored thinking people will replace their frames out of upgraditis within a handfull of years. Zipp had horrible failure rates on their wheels from the alu nipples disintegrating. It took them forever to own up to that problem. So it's not just a "china carbon" problem.

>>952927
>Carbon rots aluminum.

da fuuuuuuuuuuq are you smoking?

>>952929
Learn to galvanic corrosion, Cletus. Jesus fuck. The state of education today...

>>952926

My mistake.

The GF02 is aluminum, and I had found that online at the price the first guy mentioned when researching.

>>952933

Galvanic corrosion occurs between METALS, and does not "rot" them in any case.

>>952934
http://www.bmc-switzerland.com/us-en/bikes/road/endurance-granfondo-gf02-ultegra_di2/

No.

>>952934
The lack of welds should have been an obvious giveaway.

>>952901
you could always strip it down and look for cracks on the inside of the head tube, bottom bracket, and seat post tube. But then again maybe you will damage it while putting it all back together.

>>952938
Disc, pal. Disc.
http://www.bmc-switzerland.com/int-en/bikes/road/endurance-granfondo-gf02_disc-105/

>>952927
>Not at all. Carbon rots aluminum.

Oh fuck!?

>>952935

>Galvanic Corrosion of Metals Connected to Carbon Fiber Reinforced Polymers

> there are issues with using CFRC and metals together. Carbon fibers in CFRPs cause this material to become electrically conductive. The carbon fibers are electrically conductive and electrochemically very noble. Therefore, when a metal is electrically connected to a CFRP, it is more susceptible to galvanic corrosion.

but there's no electric on a bike (besides Di2)

>Aluminum alloys are extremely vulnerable when they are coupled to a carbon composite. Figure 3 shows the anodic and cathodic polarization curves of aluminum alloys and carbon composites, respectively. It is clear that the rate of galvanic corrosion in seawater is controlled by the oxygen reduction reaction. What this means is that any condition that leads to an increase in the rate of oxygen reduction will cause an increase in the rate of galvanic corrosion. During the galvanic corrosion, a white, jelly corrosion product will be formed on the surface of the aluminum.

unclear if this is w/electric or not...

http://calfeedesign.com/tech-papers/technical-white-paper/

>The attachment of parts poses another challenge in the building of composite bicycles. Aluminum readily corrodes when joined with carbon fiber due to the substantial difference in the galvanic corrosion potentials of the two materials. Corrosion poses a problem not only for aluminum lugs bonded to carbon tubes, but also in other areas like bottom bracket shells, head and seat tube sleeves, water bottle bosses and shifter bosses. Besides galvanic corrosion, the different fatigue characteristics and thermal expansion rates of the two materials increase the potential for failure to occur at the connections.

..

> If aluminum must be used, it should be insulated from the carbon to prevent galvanic corrosion. Some designers rely on anodizing to insulate the aluminum. This has proven to last only a few years at best. Others rely on the adhesive itself to insulate the aluminum from the carbon. This can be done with a special glass filled adhesive used in parts that are bonded in fixtures that prevent the parts from touching each other during the curing of the adhesive

..

>The best solution lies in creating a system where, if the attachment of metal parts is required, they should be formed with a material that exhibits similar properties to carbon fiber. An important requirement is that the material used should have a coefficient of thermal expansion similar to carbon. Titanium is the most appropriate metal for use in applications requiring metal mated to carbon since it is highly resistant to corrosion and it has a similar thermal expansion coefficient to carbon’s.

I want a cheapo SS beater. Should I just get a Bikes DeWrecked Windsor or Kilo TT?

I'm sticking to alu frame + steel forks forever. Carbon is just annoying what with concerns about dent and cracks. Oh well

For everyone debating carbon/aluminum corrosion. Literally the first google result.
It's a known issue, and not just in bike design, although there's not many places
where carbon fiber and aluminum have such prolonged direct contact. Granted
all of this can be combated pretty easily by coating contact surfaces with fiber grip
every so often.

http://www.boeing.com/commercial/aeromagazine/aero_07/corrosn.html

>>952962
NATURE BOY

>>952986

It's not much of a debate.
I appear to have been BTFO.

>>952998

нижняя тpyбa

>>953001

Downtube is not a pejorative in Russian, either.

>>953004
It's a prejoractive (you didn't even spell that right fucking downtuber) in all languages now, so get downtubed.

>>953006
Is this bait?

>>953008

I think it's supposed to be a play on words. I vaguely recall "prej" being part of some Russian slang a friend spouted.

>>952830
>For what reason do you think a star washer would fix things then?
Sorry, didn't realize this came as a spare part, thought it was with the saddle. Ordered one :)

>>952962
Kilo WT so you can stick some fat fucking tires and it comes with front and rear brakes instead of just rear like the TT. Doesn't cost that much more considering the extras.

>>952960
>but there's no electric on a bike
Being in electrical contact does not imply that there is an externally applied electrical current. Just being in contact is enough.
>>952935
You're a retard.

>>952840
>Most likely a short, or a worn wire or bad connector with high resistance.

Bought 10m wire, i will change the whole installation. I'm just not familiar how exactly the wires should be. Head + Stop go together into the dynamo, or it first goes to the headlamp, and there it extends to the stop.

Tried the second one, and it works the same, altho with the old wires.

If you disregard weight, is a HiTen frame actually worse than a Cromloy frame?

>>952998

>I appear to have been BTFO.

I dunno man. I seems like the carbon+aluminum needs to have a conductive situation going on. Electricity flowing through it, or water.

How much water makes it to the bottom bracket, headset, etc on a modern carbon frame? probably not much.

We might be talking like 200 years before corrosion begins.

Data is alarming but totally unclear. There is obviously not an epidemic of carbon frame failures going on...

I'm still sticking with alu/steel but if you're a roadie with $$$ go carbon

>>953036
Dynamo >> Headlight >> Taillight
There should be 2 connectors on the dynamo, 2 on the taillight and 4 on the headlight. Use two-wire cable everywhere.

>>953049
Thanks.The second pole everywhere is the frame,I will try with a cable.

>>953039
Yes. It's not only heavier, but also softer, which means you'll lose more pedal power to flexion and it's more likely to fail at some point.

>>953043
>Electricity flowing through it
Again, no. It has to be _connected_. That's not the same thing, you dunce. Water doesn't make "electricity". Carbon fiber is conductive, aluminium is conductive, is the two make contact there is an electrical connection. Water doesn't even matter.
>There is obviously not an epidemic of carbon frame failures going on
Yes there is, and it's why people get fucked all the time for not using glass bead paste when installing their aluminium seatposts in their carbon frames (or vice versa), why wheels built with carbon rims and alu nipples fail in no time at all, why bottom bracket shell threads turn into white powder in only a few years and the old alu lugged carbon frames/carbon seatstay alu frames have virtually no second hand value.

If you haven't heard about this issue or even seen it happen you've been living under a rock. Or bridge.

>>953050
That doesn't work very well, because the hub probably doesn't have a good contact with raw metal on the fork, and the fork isn't very well connected to the frame in any case. There are too many contact points, and in the bearings they also involve non-conductive lubricant.

>>953056
Is there any sense to try with an extra wire?

>>953059
Yes. The wire would have only two properly terminated contact points and be much more conductive. Make it copper, tin the ends if you can and make it sufficiently thick. Thicker the longer it is. Telephone cable or CAT5 strands is plenty if you don't have enough of the original cabling.
Make sure to clean the contacts on both the hub and lamps, and properly crimp any cable shoes using the right tools. It's low voltage, low current and you need good connections.

>>953052
But Cromoly is softer than aluminium.

>>953062
I have 10m 0,50mm2 copper wire, the old one is the same, but like 30 years old.
Thanks for the tips, I will try it out tomorrow, and possibly share pic, hope you will be online.

thx again!

bought used MTB from pinkbike.

Tires gonna need to be replaced soon since the tread is pretty worn

Any tire recommendations? It's a 29er hardtail, and most of my riding is going to be gravel-over-hardpack type surfaces (I'll be running tubeless).

>>953228
Nanos are hard to go wrong with as rear tires

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relatively new bike- my rotors seem to be hitting the calipers occasionally on the edge. my front is post mount and is mounted correctly. the rear is frame mount. Neither of them rub when i spin the wheels. Is this normal due to wheel flex? Will my crabbon frame asplode?

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>>953437
front

>>953437
>>953440

You're supposed to be too embarrassed to ask this question after spending so much money on a new disc brake road bike. Usually the sense of dread you are feeling where you second-guess everything you were told about discs ("did I fall for a marketing meme buying discs on a road bike?" (yes)) is enough to shame people into not admitting that their discs constantly rub ("I'd never go back to rim brakes" you choke, through the tears streaming down your face as you think of the money you wasted), and you are supposed to take this negative energy and use it to shitpost online ("discs are safer than rim brakes" "discs are the future" "fuck the UCI for stifling innovation" "why dont they just chamfer the edge")...

tldr yes, the disc rubbing is normal. It's caused by the wheel flex, frame flex, untrue/flexing rotors, axle flex and stuff getting in the calipers or on the rotors. The effects are all amplified by the unnecessarily complex design and insanely tiny tolerances of disc brakes. There is nothing you can do about it, apart from become increasingly bitter as you constantly make tiny fruitless adjustments until eventually it turns you into a bitter resentful shitposter who doesn't even ride bikes anymore just starts arguments online to quieten your buyers remorse for a few bittersweet seconds and then you kill yourself by slitting your wrists with the FLYING KNIFE disc brake that started it all.

>>953640
This is a 10/10 post. But that doesn't look like a road bike when you look at the pedals. A gravel or CX perhaps?

my ass is wet

whats a good fender that dont look shit around $40? The few diamondback stuff ive tried wont fit my shit. I'm looking at the SKS strap on stuff but it sounds cheap as shit and it rattles a lot.

Also, hows kenda for tires? My tires are about to blow out, i can just feel it. I've never really shopped tires, I've had the same ones for about 500mi now and i cant find them anywhere

Any comfy saddles that aren't brooks?

>>954119
khs, its like they were 3d printed to my ass

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Is there any rack like this one on the market? This one is pretty sweet and lightweight but it costs way too much to be reasonable. Pic related.

>>953440

You calipers are off center. You have to loosen the bolts that fix it to the frame, press the brake and re tighten the bolts. This way the caliper self-centers.

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tell me why i shouldn't install a deore m510 on my road bike. it's a mtb derailleur that fell into my hands, and i need a new one
also, can i run said or any 9/10 speed derailleur with an 8 speed shifter (and casette)? i have found no reasons as to why not, since derailleurs aren't indexed, except for Positron