I recently got a flat bar hybrid and am suffering from hand,

>flat bar
Well there's your problem.

Sure the bars arent fuckhuege wide af?

>>941208

Have you tried tilting your saddle back a bit?

Saddle position has a very big impact on hand comfort.

>>941242
Worth a shot but I think I will end up buying these. I am just riding for fun and to try and get fit right now.

>>941248

Buying stuff of questionable worth for your bike is a time honored tradition for cyclists across the world, knock yourself out anon.

That said, I've helped mates with their hand numbness issues before and I'm 8 for 8. Every single time, their saddle wasn't level, it was tilted slightly forward, pushing too much of their body weight onto their hands. Tilting it back instantly solved their issues.

>>941208
buy a road bike, they are more comfortable. Sounds like BS I know, I used to ride a hybrid Absolute and upgraded to a Roubaix.

Trust me, road bike bars are the way to go, you can vary so many sitting positions, its the way to go

>>941208
Ergo bars can definitely help a lot. Also make sure that you are fitted right. The stem length, bar height, saddle position etc can all have a significant effect.
>>941224
Fuck off.
>>941235
Pic isn't OP's bike
>>941259
Not true, fuck off and stop shilling your fred stuff. I have flat bars on my randonneuring rig. I also have two drop bar road bikes. Drop bars are a lot of fun but flats are great too. Add bar ends and you've got an extra position. Aero bars if you want a third (and aero bars were originally developed to add an extra position in long distance rides, they were not made for racing, so fuck off before you talk shit about aero bars for non-racing purposes).
>>941254
Listen to this guy OP. A few idiots ITT but this guy knows what he's talking about.
>>941248
Ergo bars ARE a good thing for people who have issues with hands/arms getting sore, but so is bike fit (including but not limited to saddle position). Heed this guy's advice.

Go for trekking bars with a shorter stem.

Or keep the long stem and put on North Road bars.

You'll be sitting more upright, which will take weight off your hands, but more on your butt. Might need a sprung saddle.

>>941276
>fuck off and stop shilling your fred stuff
damn you are angry...

Why would you bold on bar ends, and aero bars on a hybrid. That would look silly.

Keep the hybrid a flat bar machine. Go test drive a road bike OP, or borrow one.

Make sure its your size, ....dont bother with ergo bars, bar ends, or aero bars.

>>941285

>don't bother with anything I don't have, I am literally the pinnacle two hundred years of cycling history

Whenever someone has a bicycle issue do you always automatically jump to "GET A NEW BIKE"? Goddamn dude, always try the simplest/cheapest fix first, then work your way up.

>>941276
>Not true, fuck off and stop shilling your fred stuff. I have flat bars on my randonneuring rig. I also have two drop bar road bikes. Drop bars are a lot of fun but flats are great too. Add bar ends and you've got an extra position. Aero bars if you want a third (and aero bars were originally developed to add an extra position in long distance rides, they were not made for racing, so fuck off before you talk shit about aero bars for non-racing purposes).
Drop bars already start with three positions and you can still attach aero bars for a 4th position.
If you are not riding off road, there is little reason for flat bars over drop bars.

>>941276
>I don't know what the fuck im talking about

File: ridingfit[1].jpg (78KB, 535x548px) Image search: [Google]

78KB, 535x548px

Ergons are not a substitute for proper fit and riding technique, and they won't make up for having additional functional hand positions in the right places. But they will give more surface area. If you decide to get them, remember that grip angle is VERY important on them.

Fit for more serious riders frequently comes down to adjustments of less than a millimeter.

Also consider the width of your hand positions. Road riders have their hands much closer together than offroad.

Also go faster. More weight on the pedals, less on the hands.

>>941285
>That would look silly.
>caring if something "looks silly"
Stay fred.
>Keep the hybrid a flat bar machine. Go test drive a road bike OP, or borrow one.
Fuck off to hell.
>>941295
>Drop bars already start with three positions
And OP already has a fucking bicycle, fucking dumbass. He can get bar ends if he wants a second position (and if he wants a third position, aero bars) for a fraction the cost and resources as it would take to get a new bike.
>4th position
OP probably doesn't need four positions.
>If you are not riding off road, there is little reason for flat bars over drop bars
If you are not racing, there is extremely little reason for drop bars over flat bars. If you are riding on pavement/gravel and you are not racing, the ONLY reason to choose one over the other (regardless of which you choose) is personal preference. If you disagree then you are a fred and should fuck off.
>>941306
>doesn't provide a counter-argument
Get fucked.

>>941295
>If you are not riding off road, there is little reason for flat bars over drop bars.
brb, installing drops on my street BMX

>>941332
post pics

>>941332
Would solve the problem of smacking your face on that silly little bar that bmx handlebars have.

>>941332

I know you're joking, but that would be a hilarious troll bike.

Cheaper than my SRAM etap and aero wheels on a Soma Buena Vista mixte dream project.

>>941330
you don't need a new bike to install drops you know

>>941208
>Anyone rolling with Ergon's?

Ergons + on-one Mary = rolling on clouds. No barends necessary.
>>941087

>>941369
These looks similar (and are cheaper if I want black). Maybe worth a punt?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Dutch-Style-Bike-Bicycle-Handlebars-Steel-/121831991971?hash=item1c5dc0aaa3:g:ZNwAAOSwc0FUp~u8

>>941386
Hmm just noticed the weight penalty since those are steel.

>>941353
Not him, but yes, you do. Unless your flarbar bike was way, way too short for you to begin with. That's also why >>941317 pic is bullshit. There should be no difference in fit between flatbars and hood position - assuming the bike is ment to be used the same.
The roadbike frame will be shorter to compensate for the increased reach of drops (0.42 millifurlongs or so).

I'll try tilting the saddle back a bit more. It was level (used a level to check) but I might need to tilt it back slightly regardless since the saddle type I am, using has a slope in the middle to it (Medicus). I already raised the stem using one of those tilting risers but was even considering raising it further with a mid stem riser. This would put the bar above the saddle which is fine by me as I would prefer a more upright position to take the weight off my hands. I understand this would give less power for pedaling and lose aerodynamics but I don't care for speed really. Comfort above all else is my priority otherwise I just won't bother to get out and ride which is the entire point of my purchase in order to get fit and go places at the same time.

>>941087
btw what size bar is that? The short or long bar? Male or female?

>>941400
>prefer a more upright position to take the weight off my hands
Doesn't work that way. It's counterintuitive, but it's actually the opposite. At speed I can keep my road bike hood position with hands hovering. The idea is the power you put down on the downstroke bears the weight of your upper body.
Try moving your saddle back and _lowering_ your bars until you get better support. The idea is to shift the load from your ass and hands to your legs and core.

>>941401
Not him, but willing to bet they're On-one Mary bars. 680mm with about 20-25mm rise. I have a set, but they didn't work very well for me. Well worth the try though.

File: CAM00074.jpg (220KB, 1280x720px) Image search: [Google]

220KB, 1280x720px

>>941386
Just get the white Marys to check if you actually like them. Sometimes things that look super comfy in pictures and in your head turn out to be a torture device, and vice versa.
I don't think you'll find anything cheaper in the UK, I know XLC makes a knock-off called HB-C03 (pic related), but I haven't seen it in any british stores.

>>941401
Aall Mary bars come in the same width, 645 mm according to the manufacturer, and 2 clamp sizes.

>>941402
Then you have your back killing you instead of your wrists.

>>941208
Try raising the stem (angling it up).
I have a thing like that too and noticed that, after levelling it just like yours is, my position lies more on the hands to what it (AFAIR) used too.
Cheers.

>>941276
>Pic isn't OP's bike
>>941405
lel

>>941404
>Then you have your back killing you instead of your wrists.
Bollocks. Being bent forward is more lenient on your baack, because bumps and road buzz doesn't travel straight up your spinal column.
Unless you're going full dutchfag with springed saddle and 90° back, forward is better in the long run. There is of course a matter of building core strength, but that's like saying you need a motorbike because your legs are weak. It comes with training.

>>941408
You can shove your broscience theories because I tried the whole scale of settings from low to high and close to far and I know when my back is killing me and when it isn't.

>There is of course a matter of building core strength

"Oh yeah this position is totally viable for you, a casual rider, except it requires months of specific exercises done off the bike"

>>941412
Nice strawman. Could also be that just as leg strength and stamina improves while biking, so does core strength. Gradualy lower the bars as strength improves. Sometimes solving a problem long term means taking a counter-intuitive route.
But by all means, enjoy your perennium pressure, fucked up posture and stressed shoulders all because you think you have to be a top athlete for a road bike fit. :)

>>941417
>just as leg strength and stamina improves while biking, so does core strength.

No it doesn't.
Opinion invalid, post discarded.

>>941420
>stressing core muscles with a forward biking position doesn't train core
wtfamireading.jpg
You realised you were wrong. Deal with it.

>>941422
http://healthyliving.azcentral.com/can-bike-riding-strengthen-abdominal-muscles-2232.html

File: image.jpg (25KB, 380x380px) Image search: [Google]

25KB, 380x380px

I have these on my flat-bar commuter.
Pretty happy with them but I never suffered pain, just numbness and fatigue in the colder months.
They'd be a lot cheaper than Ergons and the positioning is better imo, basically your hand will sit right at the end of the bars rather than up over them like on the Ergons.
Aldo they are probably lighter.

File: Oppfinnar-Jocke.gif (15KB, 198x454px) Image search: [Google]

15KB, 198x454px

>>941424
>Unless you already have strong core muscles and use them consciously to support your upper body as you ride
Your own fucking link. If you're going to go out of your way to find an austrailian cycling (hah!) article to support your claim, make sure it fucking does supports it.
Even your own link says if you don't just sit your dead weight on the saddle and handlebars, you do use your core muscles. Guess what using a muscle does?

Start with a little drop, and work your way towards a bigger drop over time, as your strength allows. If you can't use your core to support even a little bit of your upper body when cycling, you're not a 'casual' - you're an invalid.
Every little bit of that support comes away from your saddle and hands, as per your very link m8.
>mfw the article suggests 'leg circles' on your back as a core excercise and it's the same thing as bending over a racer and pedaling.

>>941439
>Unless you already have strong core muscles

As in, training them beforehand?

>Guess what using a muscle does?

Absolutely nothing unless you exhaust them to the point of failure. Which sitting on a bike won't do.

Feel free to link a better sourced article claiming that riding a bike does build up core strength. Otherwise I give no fucks what you believe.

File: Girls.png (490KB, 449x401px) Image search: [Google]

490KB, 449x401px

>>941444
>thinks training requires 'exhaustion to the point of failure'

>>941444
>As in, training them beforehand?
Yeah, as in walking or being able to sit in a chair. Your entire argument is that cycling doesn't stress the core, therefore using your core when cycling would be too stressing for 'casuals', but this does equal training for said casual because cycling 'doesn't stress your core'.
It's fucking beyond circular reasoning, dude. You went full retard here.
>exhaust them to the point of failure
That's it guys! We can all go home now. Unless we have roadside breakdowns on every ride we will never be stronger cyclists. All this training wasn't actual training. Any increase in stamina and power was coincidental or imaginary!
Anon has spoken.
>off yourself m80

>>941447
*this doesn't equal

File: vm3_hand_300x400[1].jpg (17KB, 300x400px) Image search: [Google]

17KB, 300x400px

I'm guessing the change of hand position from horizontal to a more vertical position is the same principle as used by vertical mice to supposedly relieve wrist pressure.

File: pic2new[1].jpg (25KB, 600x430px) Image search: [Google]

25KB, 600x430px

OK this makes sense. For those who argue that a forward position is better for wrist issues this might explain why they are thinking this way.

http://breakingmuscle.com/cycling/pain-free-cycling-avoiding-wrist-and-elbow-injury

Basically if you are riding correctly when bent forward your hands should not be bent at the wrist but straight like in the photo. When I am riding on my flats angled forward all my eight is going onto my wrists at and angle because of the design of my flatties. If I had drops like in the photo I could do this but I can't.

>>941288
>>941295
wow, why are you so angry. Maybe the flat bars increase your anger.

>>941468
I'm going to reposition my brake levers to give me some room to attain that position. Also the bell weight exercises sound interesting..

>>941332
http://fstb.manufacturer.globalsources.com/si/6008850530182/pdtl/Non-electric-city/1132326105/BMX-bike.htm

I don't like where this searching has taken me

OP here (still). From Googling the Ergon's don't actually cure the problem other than providing extra hand positions. They are butterfly shaped to give an area to rest the palms of your wrists on and doesn't actually cure poor wrist and forearm posture. So if you are still leaning with bent wrists on Ergon's you are still fucking up anyhow. I am going to have to experiment further with seat, bar and brake/shifter adjustment. One of the main annoyances is the Altus shifters allow very littl in the way of re-positioning the brake levers. i tried swapping them to the outside but that just made things worse because the gear indicators are non-removable and the shifters only have ONE bar loop with no means of adjusting them further. It makes one finger brake lever setup impossible and cramps the hands on the end of the bars. That's cheap gear shifters for you though. I put the saddle back level as it was cutting into my perineum. I'm still debating about a change of bars or a change of grips/bar ends or both. This is going to be a bit of a winding journey to get the perfect fit methinks. I will start with the cheapest options first (what I can do with my existing gear and fit) then move onto the bar and leave bar ends until last if I don't like it.

>>941503
Post a picture of your setup, I have a suspicion you're doing it horribly wrong.
The platform of ergon grips prevents your wrists from rotating into a bent position when set up properly. Also brake lever placement has nothing to do with your gripping position other than how easy it is to reach them.

File: IMG_0614_April 07, 2016.jpg (217KB, 1000x750px) Image search: [Google]

217KB, 1000x750px

>>941510

File: WP_20160322_18_35_16_Pro.jpg (2MB, 3264x1840px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x1840px

>>941510
Not whoever you were talking to but i also get arm and wrist pain and I dont think my wrist is bent. Also I find mysef wanting to change hand position on non tech rides so I'm getting some stubby bar ends.

>>941514
I'm really beginning to believe it's an issue with flats and having wrists in the horizontal plain. It's the same reason mousing and keyboard use can lead to carpal tunnel. Our hands and wrists are meant to be in the vertical plane most often. Bar ends may indeed help somewhat.

>>941513
Your bars are way too high for starters

>>941520
Tried them lower. Made the pain worse. My seat height is right (turn them with my heels). Also done the plumbline test from my knee's to the end of the crank shaft. Saddle is level using a spirit level. Not much else I can do other than a change of bars/grips/bar ends really. The only thing different and which I need to test when the weather is better is I moved the brake and shifters downwards a bit to be in line with my straightened hand and wrist position as per a video I watched earlier.

File: sideways-hold[1].jpg (48KB, 720x480px) Image search: [Google]

48KB, 720x480px

>>941518
>Our hands and wrists are meant to be in the vertical plane
Then explain this

>>941520
A trillion times this. See >>941402
Also try rotating the bar +/-10° or so in the stem so the sweep angles the grip in/out. You'll have to adjust the brake/shifter with every change of course.
You should also have to reach with your thumb/index for the shifter. If you keep it within immediate reach the brake ends up too close.

>>941513
Also your saddle looks angled forward and way too concave for its own good.
Measure yourself here (for a mountain bike fit):
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp
This should give you an idea how far the bars should be from the saddle for you, set them at saddle height or an inch below for starters and check if they fall within that measurement.
I assumed you did obvious shit like rotate the bars to the most comfortable position.

>>941525
I think it just comes down to repetition to be honest. Plus your hands and arms are not really meant to absorb shocks or be put under continuous pressure for long periods. I am just pulling shit outta my ass though.

>>941526
The Altus shifters hit the bottom of the brake lever. There really is not much room for variation. If I push them upwards they would be in the wrong position for my thumbs going above the bar grips. The design of these shifters are really shitty to be quite honest senpai. I will probably switch them out for STI's at some point in the future.

File: 4bars.jpg (526KB, 1200x986px) Image search: [Google]

526KB, 1200x986px

>>941514
I'm the Mary guy, I never managed to make peace with straight bars, I always got numb fingers on rides longer than ~2 hours, ergons and bar ends didn't help. Even the Fleegle had too little sweep for me. I don't ride down actual mountains so I never felt like it lacked control.
(fleegle is #2, mary is #4)

>>941346
that ain't troll; that's awesome

File: answer_2020_main.jpg (142KB, 800x416px) Image search: [Google]

142KB, 800x416px

>>941537
looks interesting- answer even made some carbon ones. Might be worth a try if I can even find them.

>>941544
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/answer-xc-enduro-720-20-20-carbon-bar/rp-prod87814?gs=1&gclid=CLbJkvOa_csCFZWMaQodcAoF8A&gclsrc=aw.ds
$130 and 720mm fuckhuge- still want

File: 22363daad974ef59581bef5e0f412869a5d9d33f.jpg (94KB, 800x533px) Image search: [Google]

94KB, 800x533px

>>941533
>The Altus shifters hit the bottom of the brake lever.
I don't know what you mean by this. I'm just saying your brake and shifter is too close to the grip. Shifter goes on first, then brake, then about a thumbs width or more between the brake clamp and the grip.
The two should not be butted up against the grip like it seems they are on your bike. If they are, you'll be clamping up your hand trying to brake.

This does put the shift paddles slightly outside the grip and you will have to reach your thumb to downshift, but that's how they're ment to be mounted. Flatbar integrated or I-spec will not help you; they're exactly the same.

Notice how you can reach the shift levers without reaching outside the grip for them on the pro cockpit in ← pic.
>>941524
>Tried them lower. Made the pain worse.
Because you're incredibly high. Lowering them some will shift load from your ass to your hands. Lowering lots will shift it from your ass and hands too your legs.
Move your saddle back as far as it will go, and set your bars slightly below saddle height. It''ll probably feel incredibly wrong at first, but hang in there and you'll see.

You might also think about going to a shop that does bikefits and buying one rather than fumbling with it and missing out on cycling.

>>941514
That looks like a mountain bike not a hybrid. Ergos are great on mtbs.

>>941553
Aha! I knew there was something wrong with the way they set them up at the shop. You was spot on about the brakes and shifters. They are supposed to be two finger operation by the way my hands sit on the bars. The shifters were also far too close to the grips. I have moved them about and inch or so inwards and et voila! I have moved the bar down in height too as per your suggestion and moved the seat back a bit and swiveled it to where I 'think' it should sit in my hands. Hard to tell with the shape of the bar. I put the logo show it shows in the middle of the stem mount. I'll let you know how I get on. Weather looks variable so I dunno if I will be able to test tomorrow. But will try.

Thanks for the photo it put me straight on the levers at least. Now I can mount my bell properly too so that's a bonus.

The middle section of the handlebar is now level with the highest part of the back of the saddle (I used a pole and a spirit level). I know you want me to go lower on the bar and higher on the seat but that would be too far above my short ass legs (30"). The frame size is 18" and gives me an inch or two clearance when I lift it between my legs. I'm not sure where else to go from here other than to suck it and see when I ride it. I've had enough fiddling with it for today.

>>941581
I must also point out that my height is around 5.6-7" and I am shrinking as I get older (over 50 here).

>>941581
>higher on the seat
No-ones asked you to do that afaict. Just that the grips should usualy be an inch or two below the lowest point of the top of the saddle - on an XC setup.
The only time it's level with the saddle or higher is when the saddle is purously set too low for the very gnarly off-trail riding.
Your bars are probably still too high.

One anon asked you to try to tilt the saddle up, but I think your tilted image fooled him. Should be good s is unless you feel yourself wanting to slide forward all the time.

>>941583
At what point do you decide you're too old for 4chin

>>941584
The saddle is set correctly. Height wise I dunno as I raised it ever so slightly. Will test again on an actual ride tomorrow hopefully. If the bar needs to go down further then I will have to remove some rings from the stem. I could angle the adjustable stem downwards (it has the capability) but I don't like the idea of that to be honest and it would make it look odd. If none of this helps my wrist I shall cry bullshit to the lot of you and go get those Mary's/Ergon's.

>>941586
>implying you're not here for life - like the banner says

>>941586
Well that was a few years ago when it turned to utter shit and filled up with fucking social media faggots. At least there are still a few of the old guard hanging around who I can banter with.

>>941590
Bikes look like shit while you're trying out the fit no matter what you do. Tilt it down.

>>941595
I will tomorrow if I don't get on with the current height. It's not hard to do. Only a few minutes out on the road.

File: IMG_5560.jpg (948KB, 1632x1224px) Image search: [Google]

948KB, 1632x1224px

>>941208
Many said it before me and I'll say it again; check your saddle. You want to it to be completely horizontal. Maybe a 1 degree tilt. Also get Ergon grips and change hand position now and then. Relax your shoulders and elbows. And, of course, make sure you've got a proper bike fit.

>>941603
I went through that bike fit calculator using my rough measurements. I found I had to bring the saddle forward as my stem length is too long. The original stem is actually the right length if I middle the saddle position. But it had no height adjustment other than to invert it so it points down. What's interesting to note is that that bike fit calculator says NOTHING about handlebar height and all the bike fit videos I have watched to date don't say anything about the bars having to be below the seat height. So if you can point me to an official webpage saying the height of the bar MUST be below the saddle I'd be interested to see it. All the other measurements according to that bike fit page are perfect apparently.

My saddle is level I used a spirit level to measure so stop going on about it.

>>941609
>I found I had to bring the saddle forward as my stem length is too long.
This will put more load on your wrists. Both the long stem and the forward saddle position.
Also, bikefit calcs are a scam.

>>941611
Thank you for sharing. From Googling everything is a fucking scam and a myth. It comes down to whatever fucking works and a few basic actual facts. Basically the more I read and the more suggestions I get the more it looks like bullshit and I should just go with a few helpful pointers and make my own adjustments to suit.

aaaaaand I am proven right. Well at least in the opinions shown here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMVqJhM6eq4&nohtml5=False
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFQfuGibf0A

File: 1460052484758.jpg (187KB, 1000x750px) Image search: [Google]

187KB, 1000x750px

>>941609
>I found I had to bring the saddle forward as my stem length is too long

That's not how you adjust reach. Saddle is set up relative to the bottom bracket THEN you move the bars around to get the desired reach.
Install your old stem, you can flip it upside down and move the rings on the steerer tube above or under it.
Handlebar height is a personal matter, there's no universal "right" position, that's why fitting guides don't talk about it. But those calculators assume it will be somewhere below the saddle. The same saddle-handlebar distance will be a completely different position when the bars are 3 inches above the saddle than if it they were 3 inches below it.
The weight distribution between your feet, ass and hands is important, as is the angle between your torso and your arms (I'm guessing this is the main reason why you tend to grip it with bent wrists, coupled with improperly angled, or just unfitting, bars). So do what everyone in the thread is telling you to do, lower the bars, adjust the reach, find the best tilt for them (while sitting in the saddle). If that doesn't help, consider ergonomic grips (they don't have to be original Ergons) or different handlebars. Bars above saddle belong on upright city bikes and BMXes, nowhere else.

File: DSCN4555.jpg (2MB, 1600x1200px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1600x1200px

>>941208

Oh they're awesome. Something about being able to grip at that angle, releases a lot of pressure in my back, personally.
I got the GP-3, GP-5s in pic-related seemed like you really don't need that extra length.

Ergons are great, but they did help fuck me over in a hardcore, life-ruining way.

A couple years ago I was out riding new country. Came down off of a steep hill, and halfway down this hill another nice, calm country road merged in, and I got a yield sign. I was rolling pretty damn fast, as I turned to look over at the merging road to check for traffic. I whacked a nasty whump in the pavement.

Now this whump would have been perfectly recoverable were my hands properly gripping my flat-bars, but they weren't. They were resting nice and flat on my nice shiny new Ergon GP-3s, so the whump knocked my hands free. Going down hill. Fast.

I woke up a couple of weeks later in the hospital in a severe DAI daze that lasted for 6 months, and now I have some fairly bad memory, focus, and some light motor skill/speech problems, as well as a face scarred to hell and a fairly fucked up back.

Now that my pity party is over, just take away that the moral is to be careful when holding them in those weird ways that are very tempting. I'm a damned idiot, and flew too close to the sun like a bitch.

>>941629
Sounds like you were not using your thumbs on the grips or you was gripping the bar ends on a downhill (Neither being a great idea)? Sorry to hear about how it fucked you over though. I personally dislike going downhill at speed and tend to use the brakes (a lot).

>>941628
My bad. If I get the saddle position correct then I could always move the adjustable stem either up or down which brings it forwards to get the reach correct. Then move it up and down on the rings to compensate for the height changes.

>>941633
If I had a cycle trainer it would make things much easier. I actually gave a cheap one away last year and now I am kicking myself. I could have used it to adjust my fit.

>>941631
My problem is that I have the grips at a fairly shallow angle, and I often reset my palms on them opened flat to release pressure at different angles. Very easy to knock loose, and normally I tried/try to avoid that when in tight areas, or relatively high speed, but that was one of those it-only-takes-once situations to make a mistake like that. That's why I explicated to OP: these things have all kinds of cool positions to add, but it's easy to do weird stuff that doesn't help.

>>941645
> I often reset my palms on them opened flat to release pressure at different angles.

Wut? why..?

OP here. I went out for an hour using all the methodology you guys spouted. The only GOOD advice I got from this was that the shifters and brakes were too close to the grips. I also re-adjusted them whilst out riding as they were far too bent downwards. I also removed the old fashioned bell and put the shitty thumb bell back on as it was interfering with my forefinger to change down on the rear deraileur.

I am raising the bar again and shifting my seat back. Plumbline from my inside knee to the middle of the pedal seems to be better that way anyhow although I've read a few opinions about KOPS being bullshit anyhow.

Observations.

When I was bent more forward I was getting considerable pressure on the inner portion of the hand between the thumbs and forefingers and in the middle palm of the hand. Not so much on the fattier parts although I have some tinging.
I naturally want to put my thumb on the grip sticking sideways or forwards (unsafe). I can feel a need for putting my hands to the sides. To that end I have ordered the Ergon GP3's in biokek (sic) and a decent pair of gloves (Zookki full fingers seem to get good reviews on Amazon). I did try with some splinted wrist supports but although they helped support the wrists I found they cut into that soft tissue between the thumb and forefinger too much so they came off part way through the ride. I have some cheap fingerless gloves but again they cut in too much.

When pedaling my left leg feels a little bit stretched coming back up the right down stroke. Not enough to worry about but I am aware my left legs is fractionally shorter than my right.

My right foot keeps wanting to toe inwards and ends up moving too close to the end of the crank. When I try to correct it it 'feels' odd. Like it's not fully sitting right. I am not sure if this is down to my Nike trainers being worn that side or something mechanical. Will investigate since I pedal on wall hang the bike as seen in the photo above (Opinions on doing so?).

>>941836
I forgot to add that by lowering the bars I was getting more pressure on my perineum due to the curvy shape of this particular saddle. I could have sloped the saddle slightly forward to correct this but the other issues bothered me enough to switch back.

File: 1457922693775.jpg (105KB, 799x600px) Image search: [Google]

105KB, 799x600px

>>941836
>gets told adjustment is insufficient and will hurt perineum, hands and shoulders more
>aka gets worse before it can get better
>ignores advice
>"you guys suck, my hands hurt and my tains is sore"
>pic related

>>941836
Your handlebars are supposed to support some of your weight, not just be something to hold on to. Pressure is not inherently bad when distributed properly. Bar-ends are just a poor workaround when the main position is uncomfortable, you won't be able to ride on them as much as you think (shifting, braking, bumpy sections).
You should probably look for a flatter saddle at some point, I can vouch for WTB Pure V, best affordable saddle I owned.

The problem with most experienced riders is just that. They are experienced riders. They may never even have been an overweight, unfit manlet in their lives and come from the stance that everyone must be like them. They provide advice and opinions based on their experience of being a fit and healthy individual. Whilst some of that advice may be beneficial for other healthy and fit individuals it may be totally counter intuitive and perhaps even damaging for someone who has not done the required elementary workout beforehand. Weak muscles and tight tendons, Lack of stamina etc. When an experienced rider focuses too much on what works for them as a fit and experienced individual it can have a negative effect on those that are not. In fact it can deviate into arguments between other fit and experienced individuals on what is right or wrong and end up confusing for those who don't have the ability to meet that criteria . OP needs to 'work towards' those goals and concentrate on what makes him most comfortable. Basic warm ups and stretches and perhaps use of weights will help. Once he has gotten fitter he will no doubt find his posture demands that he lower the bars. The Ergons will provide some temporary relief in the meantime.

Before you can get fit as a rider you need to get fit overall. One goes hand in hand with the other.

Please remember this when handing out advice like it's some kind of law written in stone.

"Slow moves Ellie. Slow moves..."

>>941852
>an overweight, unfit manlet
I resemble that remark, you insensitive clod!
I still keep my handlebars well below the saddle and always have. Evan as a newb.

File: c8553521cebd31589673e4b449fccb74[1].jpg (41KB, 400x400px) Image search: [Google]

41KB, 400x400px

>>941868
lol fatty

>>941852
> fat
> my wrist hurt

Get a recumbent

>>941525
There is zero benefit to shooting a handgun sideways. Try it sometime, dumbfuck.

>>941524
>My seat height is right (turn them with my heels)
m8...

you're supposed to put the BALLS OF YOUR FEET on the pedals NOT YOUR FUCKING HEALS

What the actual fuck if you're not a troll

File: thumsupbaby.png (188KB, 960x640px) Image search: [Google]

188KB, 960x640px

>>941525
Explain THIS

>>941525
>Then explain this

Hollywood. No one who knows what they are doing shoots a handgun sideways.

>>941927
Dumb shit detected. Either that or reverse trolling.

>>941925
It makes it easier for your assistant standing to your right to load new magazines.

>>941259

Yeah, no. I got into a car wreck and regular road bars are a fucking excruciating nightmare.

>>941399
Or unless you change the stem to a shorter one.
Also keep in mind the type of brakes and the brake levers.

It really isn't cheap to change from a flat bar to a drop bar.

>>942703
There is no way even a direct mount stem can compensate that, not to mention such a bike would handle like shit.The frame needs to be built and speced for drop bars.
The other way around can work, if you have a massive stem basically placing a narrow flatbar about where the hoods or tops would be.

>>942704
Well, then it is proved that is really impractical to change from flatbars to drops.

Which was the point anyway.

>>941989
Except the post you replied to is correct, dumbass. Why the fuck else is the mount point for cleats on the part of your shoe that's under the ball of your foot, not your heal?

I could never agree with flat bars. Maybe riser bars, but drops were my preference. That's until I discovered Jones loop bars which are chocolate coated vaginas.

>>942739
Being just barely able to pedal with your heels is the classic test for saddle height, newbie. He didn't mean to imply he always did it that way. Context, anon, learn it.

File: IMG_20160411_182837.jpg (3MB, 1944x2592px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 1944x2592px

>>941369

Mary bar and Ergons is what I've been using, and has been a great combo. There is also the Pope bar that has the same 41° sweep.

>>942855

Wow they're pretty cheap, much cheaper than comparable Jones or Surly bars.

>>941369
Bar ends are not for comfort, and this is one of the reasons bar ends went out of fashion.

>>942855
I just got super-nostalgic for my old bike - this is basically the exact cockpit I had on it, thumbie-friction shifters and all.

>>942884
Yeah it's a real steal.

File: IMG_20160412_150927.jpg (2MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2592x1944px

>>942884
I have a Surly that's kind of like the Mary Bar, but I found that the sweep back was too much, it feels like a beach cruiser. Soma has a copy of the Mary Bar, the Clarence Bar.

I'm using a Nitto Bar that has the same sweep, just not a lot of room on the sweep for both brakes and shifter.

>>943226

Look pretty good. I like the style of bar, but I think the Jones bar is worth the spend as they're pretty firm, if you need that.

File: carbon steerer.jpg (116KB, 666x1000px) Image search: [Google]

116KB, 666x1000px

>>943226
>have a Surly that's kind of like the Mary Bar

You mean the Open Bar? Mary user here, I was eyeing those, mainly due to Surly's claims they're a bit flexible compared to alu bars for increased comfort (garbon will not touch my bike ever), can you comment on that aspect?
Also when you say too much sweep, too much compared to Mary or just in general?

>>943261

I remember reading reviews of the troll and ogre completes which used to ship with them, and the bars were referred to as a bit noodly. It's telling that both completes now ship with Jones bars.

>>943261
I can't comment on the flexibility issue, as I didn't use the bar long enough. About the sweep, after a lot of trial and error, I found that for my comfort 41° of sweep is perfect. The Surly had more than that, and I just didn't feel comfortable riding with it. I had the same issue with the Nitto Albatross bar, and one from Velo Orange. The big thing with the added sweep, is that I don't feel I get the same amount power from my lower body because of the more upright position that my uperbody is in.

File: bars.jpg (408KB, 747x1118px) Image search: [Google]

408KB, 747x1118px

>>943271
Couldn't you correct that with a longer/lower stem? Doesn't look THAT much more bent than Marys.
Then again looks are deceiving and you can't know if something will work until you try it in person.

>>943272
>Brake levers butted up against the grips
I can definitely know if something won't work before trying it in person.

File: IMG_20160413_132721.jpg (2MB, 1944x2592px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1944x2592px

>>943272
After riding today I have a better answer. When at a stop, and standing on the pedals, when you start, you use your upper body to pull back on the bars, while the lower body starts to push down on the pedals. With lots of sweep, you don't get the same amount of leverage doing this, thus loose power.

Here is a photo of the Surly bar on top of the Mary Bar.

>>943272
>>943486
The surly open bar has a LOT more angle on the grips than the Mary. It also places the grips significantly further aft, yielding a much more upright posture if you don't pair it with an ultra-long dorkstem. It really feels like a beachcruiser bar.

The Mary is shaped such that your hands are in roughly the same spot that they'd be with a flat bar, just at a better wrist angle for a wide stance.

>>943486
were the leaves and man-feet really necessary?

>>943486

I don't understand, my drop bar bike has almost 90 degrees sweep and I can plenty mash power from that.

>>943493
DESU you can get long grips and grip along the bar. That's what I like about the Jones bars you can sit up and beachcruise, wide grip offroad, grab on and honk.

Anyway I like this trend of swept bars they're pretty much optimal for anyone who isn't racing.