/bqg/

>>935120
Disc brake cleaner and a rag for rubbing is excellent to remove the little residues of glue if you can't pick it up by dabbing the sticker.

Also, other than wheel stickers, what kind of bike has stick-on branding and not painted?

>>935120
What is the F measurement called and what is the point of it?

Seems rather pointless, especially as it looks to be measured from the centre of the headtube so a longer headtube with a shorter fork would have a different measurement despite being functionally identical.

>>935140
It's how the rear wheel tracks the front wheel, and why head tube angle is very important to your discipline.

I want to get into daylong bike trips.
will my endurance increase if I go on 2 - 3 h rides once or twice a week ?
or do I have to do intervals or something.

also,
right now a really limiting factor is my ass.
even with padded shorts, sitting just gets more and more uncomfortable.
will my ass improve or do I need a new saddle ?

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Hey /n/
I bought a KMC x10.73 and a sunrace 10v cassette to replace my tiagra chain and cassette
And it shifts like SHIT,Its properly (re-)adjusted and it just slips for a quarter turn on the smallest 3 cogs.
Ive had good experiece mixNmatching components before.
Any Idea what the problem might be?
Even on the front the shifting performance is noticeably slower,the chainrings are in good condition(I made sure to replace the chain/cassette early to spare the chainwheels)

It's my first KMC chain and I'm not impressed so far

>>935175
I may be incorrect here, but have you indexed your derailleur since changing? Sorry if you have but I know sometimes you can forget the obvious

>>935175
It's not properly adjusted. KMC is fine.

>>935176
I had to re-adjust the high and low limit screws and adjust the cable tension (2 "clicks" only though)when I installed the new cassette and chain.
I just cannot get it to shift smoothly and Ive adjusted well over a hundred derailleur (LBS greasemonkey here).
I'm beginning to doubt myself more than the material I purchased...

>>935142
But as I said, that measurement can change whilst keeping the geometry the same, it's literally meaningless as far as I can tell. It has nothing to do with the head angle or the relationship between the two wheels, or any other aspect of the geometry.

>>935175
>Sunrace
There's your problem. Why...?

>>935181
Okay damn hmm not too sure them, maybe just ride it and hope that it has a break in period, other than that I don't know what to suggest? Maybe try a new chain lube see if that loosens up the links is all I can think of now

>>935183
My previous 9 speed bike had a sunrace cassette and it shifted flawlessly,as do the 20+ cassette and freewheels Ive mounted on different bikes, the 10V one doest look noticeably different from the others though in terms of finish and construction,the 3 largest cogs are even mounted on a spider (ooh fancy)

>>935184
>maybe just ride it and hope that it has a break in period
yup,this was pretty much my next course of action,A shame its so cold the last few weeks here ;/

>>935186
But Shimano tenspeed has redesigned ramps compared to ninespeed. They didn't do that for shits and giggles. An HG-X chain on an HG-X cassette shifts incredibly well compared to mismatched tenspeed stuff, and i don't trust SunRace CamelCase to produce a half decent ramp even if their lives depended on it.
These things become increasingly important as everything shrinks. A sevenspeed can be shifted reasonably well even without any kind of ramps at all. Ninespeed not so much, and ten-/elevenspeed it gets realy noticable.

A commonly suggested upgrade for the tenspeed SRAM Red group was a Shimano HG-X cassette and chain.

You traded the best solution on the market for a mismatch of the two worst, and you noticed it didn't shift as smoothly. No big shock there.

>>935189
>and you noticed it didn't shift as smoothly. No big shock there.
Its not even "just not smooth"it's actually just shit.

>But Shimano tenspeed has redesigned ramps compared to ninespeed.
With ramp you mean how the cog's teeth are on relation the the adjecent cogs right(non native English speaker here)

Anyway thanks,Ill have a go at studying this shit.

>>935122
>what kind of bike has stick-on branding and not painted?

my beater is a nishiki frame/fork/saddle, that had another brand (whats that about anyway), stickers were a bitch to remove, had to use acetone/wd40/soapy water

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>>935192
>With ramp you mean how the cog's teeth are on relation the the adjecent cogs right
The ramps are the (in this pic two) chain link outline imprints on the sprockets. They're designed to hook onto the outer plates and force the chain up, or lower it smotthly down.

It these ramps are poorly defined, designed, spaced or placed in relation to the teeth and their profile, or simply don't match the shape of the outer plates of the chain, shifting is going to be worse. How much worse will vary depending on ... everything.

>>935193
Did it say Yosemite by any chance?

>>935197
Thanks alot,tommorow Ill compare the ramps on the old cassette and the new sunrace one(and the old sunrace 9v I still have lying around which shifted just fine)

>How much worse will vary depending on ... everything.
Tseems mixNmatching is not always such a flawless idea :/

Any recommendations for value panniers?

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The compression knob on my fork does nothing. Its holding air but whenever i screw on my shock pump it reads 0 PSI. Is it broken?

>>935299
You're supposed to pump the fork. The valve doesn't open just because you screw it on, so the gauge still reads the atmosphere pressure in the hose.
Pump a few times. When pressure stops rising as rapidly, you're at the pressure inside the fork.

The compression knob on your fork is broken if it doesn't do anything. Did you ride it offroad (on into a curb/pothole) while locked?

>>935304
It should read something. The valves are essentially the same as those used in innertubes, screwing on the pump depresses the pin in the valve to open it so if it reads 0 and he can't hear any air going into the pump then chances are the pump is busted. The reading will however be lower than what the forks was initially pumped up to as some of the air from the fork escapes into the pump.

Regarding the compression, as mentioned I've found riding at a curb to be a good way of judging the setting. Try it at both extremes of the adjustment and there should be quite a noticeable difference in how stiff the fork feels.

>>935298
Anything other than Ortlieb is pretty much trash, to be honest famalam.

>>935304
no it never locked, it has a firm setting w/ a magnetic blow off valve but like I said none of the settings make any difference in compression. I just emailed the mfg- maybe I got a bad one. Its also super loud when the suspension compresses- i dont care about the noise but may have too do w/ the problem.

>>935298
I've been using some Nashbar Euro Compacts for 3-4 years now, would totally buy a second pair if it ever became necessary. Also, 'compact' is a misnomer, they're big enough for two 1-gallon milk jugs in each main compartment.

>>935174
1. Building endurance is primarily about time on the bike - if you want to do long, long rides, just start riding incrementally longer distances every week. Intervals are for building strength/aerobic capacity - but if you do interval workouts that improvement in strength will also make some contribution to your endurance as well.

2. Definitely sounds like a saddle problem.

>>935120
I just did this to my bike the other day, removed all the stickers from the frame and the fork so really now the only decals on there are the make/model

Anyone have a diy repair stand? Pics if you do

>>935312
Ortlieb is good, but I kinda like the retrogrouch panniers that you secure with plain' ol straps, if only because the plastic bits on the Ortliebs have a small chance of breaking (and a lotta screws that can loosen up, something to keep on top of), and there's no great way of securing the bags to your rack if that happens in the middle of a tour or something.

>>935298
The ultimate value panniers are a pair of milk crates strapped to your rack with an old tire tube or paracord or fancy pants bungee. Not great for waterproofness though. Covered square buckets are another popular choice.

>>935174
Your ass improves a bit, but if you get numb down in the crotchular area, the position of the saddle needs to be adjusted, or you just need a new saddle.

For endurance, increase total mileage per week, and seek to increase avg. speed, too. Mix in some interval and hill work because I've seen guys who can go forever on flatland get their shit pushed into bonkville by one serious climb.

>>935122
I think most of low-quality bikes have sticks. A lot of them don't even varnish them.

I want to get into cycling again but it's still cold outside. The problem I have is breathing the cold air.
Do you wear some kind of mask or do you just adapt to the cold weather?

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>>935351
Balaclava. Not ideal if you have glasses, though.

>>935351
Depends on the temperature and your preferences.

I wear a balaclava when temps get down to 25º, but I'm not keeping it over my mouth (I don't have the kind with mouth holes), it's just for warmth to cover more skin than my cap and jacket collar can.

As for breathing the cold air, unless it's really fucking cold (10º and below) I don't worry about breathing the cold air or covering my mouth with anything, I just make sure I'm wearing the right amount of insulation to keep my core and extremities warm, and I plan to drink extra water to replace all the fluids I'm going to lose from spitting out all the phelgm and snot that my body is going to produce to try and cope with the cold air.

>>935351
I started riding winters 2 years ago. Before that, when the snow melts but temperature remains low, it was painful breathing the cold air. Now I have no problems with sustained breathing down to around -7C without masks, so it is a little of adaptation.

I have a winter buff for my 15 minute commutes, anything longer than 30 minutes or colder than -15C I wear a windproof balaclava. Tip: It's better to overdress than under dress when you leave the house.

>>935363
>better to overdress
Nope nope nope - this is bad advice unless you're only talking about very short rides where it doesn't really matter what you wear.

Overdressing leads to sweating, and getting sweaty in very cold conditions can lead to frostbite surprisingly quickly, can also encourage blisters and chillblains, and being sweaty inside too-heavy kit is generally unpleasant all around.

The correct way to deal with cold on the bike is to dress in layers and carry extra layers/garments that you can pull on or off as needed. If you're hot/warm before you start pedaling, you're overdressed.

I can't fucking tune my front derailleur for shit

I shift it to the lowest gear, adjust the limit screw, all is fine, but when I shift up to the highest gear, the outer limit screw does fuck all. I've screwed it all the way out, to as far in as it goes. Nothing. I get shitty chain rub no matter what and can't even shift up to the 3rd chainring.

I really want to get a crankset with 2 chainrings because it's so much simpler and i'm sick of this awful piece of shit. Will I need to get new shifters too? going from a 3 geared crankset to a 2 geared

>>935368
1. The likeliest cause of your shift tuning problem is that you have too much slack in the cable when the derailer is shifted all the way in its lowest position. Should verify that the cage parallel to the chainrings first though.
2. Yeah, fuck triples, even after you've worked on thousands of them sometimes you get a triple setup that is a fiddly little bitch to deal with. Some shifters are compatible with either 2 or 3 chainring setups, most aren't, really depends what specifically you've got whether you'd need new shifters.

>>935364
going out for a couple hours with not enough clothing is bad. what i meant by overdress is having extra clothing.

I'm trying to remove my shifting cable thing. it won't come out.

I can see the end of it, but it won't go through the hole. Pushing the cable in just makes the cable go deeper into the shifter

>>935406
I've tried to pry it out to no success. It's shifted to the lowest gear already too.

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I bought a second hand bike and the gears are pretty rusted.
Since my target is price efficiency (not in the long run. In say 4 years) I don't want to buy new gears.
Would spraying with WD40 be a good idea?

So I bought these cheap ass tires that cost $13 each and they are cracking on the sidewalls in less than probably 500km. I'm thinking of getting 2x marathon plus for carefree riding but it costs $50 each. Buying a set means I can buy 8 of those cheap tires. Would you go for cheap ass tires or good quality ones?

>>935421
Good ones. The price increase isn't THAT much. But if you get something good, shit with the kevlar, it means they'll last longer, and you'll hardly get punctures

>>935419
Depends on the amount of rust, but usually yes. Let it soak a bit then brush all the gunk off, clean it, wait until its dry then put on some real oil. Maybe repeat the first steps a couple of times if necessary.

>>935406
There should be a hole in the mechanism of your shift lever. When the lever is in the right position you can thread the shift cable through there. Usually its at the highest gear. Shine a flashlight in there then you should be able to see if its aligned correctly.

>>935430
Ok, I'll try that. Thank you !

>>935421
Think about it this way, 8 times 500 km is still only 4000 km. There is no way (short of a catastrophic accident) that a decent tyre like the marathon will fail before then.

So it's like Vimes' shoes. Also the Plus might be overkill unless you're in a war zone.

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Which YT channels do you guys watch for bicycle engeneering, frame building, how to, this sort of stuff.

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how do i remove the rebound adjustment cap (red knob on pic) on my suntour fork? I need to extract my lockout cartridge as demonstrated in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiCx1yG4LLA, but that thing is getting in the way.

Or do I really need to get the rebound knob out to extract the lockout mechanism? Help, there doesn't seem to be instructions anywhere on how to do it on this specific model of fork(2013?ish suntour XCR)

>>935459
If it's anything like the Rockshox forks I've worked on it will just pull off, it's just a hex key with the red knob on the end and held on with friction from a little o-ring inside the knob.

You will need to remove it as they'll be a hex bolt under that knob (with a hole down the middle that the hex key goes through), loosen that bolt a bit and tap it with a mallet to to loosen the rod on that side, then remove the bolt completely and you should be able to pull the internals out through the top of the stanchion (that bolt secures the pumping rod). This is all shown in that video.

>>935459
>>935461
Just an addition, are you sure you're working on the correct side? That's the rebound adjustment knob and compression dampers are typically on the other side (easiest way to tell is which ever side the lockout knob is on). If you don't have a compression adjustment knob on the lower of the other leg (same place as the rebound knob) then it would seem you don't have externally adjustable compression, but the internals will be removed the same way.

>>935461
>>935462
thanks anon, I'm pretty sure I'm working on the correct side because it's the one where the lockout knob is.

>>935477
Well if that's the case then here's something you can try first. I have a feeling that the compression damper is a separate unit in the top of the leg with the rebound damper in the bottom (my Boxxers are like this, even though the dampers are in different legs). You may be able to just unscrew the comp damper at the top of the leg and pull it out without having to mess with the rest of the internals (you'll also get away with not having to drain the oil, just a small top up when you replace the damper).

>>935422
>>935444
Thanks, it's my commuter so I don't really feel like putting a lot of money into it. Yeah it might be overkill but I'm really frustrated trying to fix flats every week. The feeling is horrible when I wake up and I'm all ready to commute but I have to spend the next 10 minutes fixing a flat with freezing cold rims.

>>935120
im 5'4", male. Would an 18" frame be alright for a bike to ride?

I have this really nice mountainbike but I hate driving it to work, because where I live it rains a lot and I would have to leave it in the rain for 9 hours (theres no place for me to put it where its safe from the rain).

Is there anything I can do to prevent rusting from the rain or is rain not that bad for bikes and I'm worrying about nothing ain't I.

>>935486
Throw of tarp over it. Other than that, mountainbikes don't make that great commuters for this very reason. Forks and shocks now have a 50h rebuild interval. That's a week of commuting.
And this is assuming they're actually used, since the oil needs to splash around and the pinjons move to lubricate the seals. If it's locked all the time it's basicaly running dry and the few millimetres of movement there is will cause quite a lot of localized wear.

Get a rigid commuter.

>>935489
>Forks and shocks now have a 50h rebuild interval
That depends entirely on the usage and conditions. It's not a strict rule and the component isn't going to explode if you fail to abide by it. I've got 10+ year old forks that have never been serviced and still going strong.

For commuting a short travel fork or shock is going to last a lot longer without servicing compared to riding off road, it's only going to see infrequent and minor movement.

>If it's locked all the time it's basicaly running dry and the few millimetres of movement there is will cause quite a lot of localized wear.
First of all, if the forks is always used locked then only an idiot would continue to use it instead of swapping to a rigid fork. Secondly light usage isn't putting any additional wear on the fork. Nothing is running dry, they're filled with oil nearly to the top of the stanchion so everything below that is well lubricated.

>>935495
>they're filled with oil nearly to the top of the stanchion
You've never serviced a fork, have you? We're talking single digit centilitres in an open bath and a soaked sponge under the scrapers.

If you actually filled the outer legs, how would be fork even compress? Oil is incompressible.

what a bike...

>>935497
>You've never serviced a fork, have you?
I have, but I'm guessing you haven't.

>We're talking single digit centilitres in an open bath and a soaked sponge under the scrapers.
The amount depends on the fork. Yes it's not a huge amount but the internal volume of the fork also isn't much, it's enough oil to nearly fill the stanchion.

>If you actually filled the outer legs, how would be fork even compress? Oil is incompressible.
I didn't say it was completely filled. The fork is filled in it's compressed state to a certain distance from the top of the stanchion. When the fork extends this level goes down but there is still oil in the stanchion and above the wiper seals.

If this wasn't the case then the oil level would be below the rebound and compression valves and they wouldn't function at the beginning of the travel (resulting in undamped compression at the beginning of the travel and undamped rebound and the end).

>>935486
Water doesn't cause rust, oxygen does. If a nice mtb means alu or carbon, rusting on your frame is not something you have to worry about. Keep everything greased and you'll be fine. If you're riding in snow, grime and salt then it's a whole different story.

>>935419
ya, then scrub them with a wire brush and wipe with a rag, "flossing" between gears. repeat as necessary. a wire brush is easily obtained from supermarket that has charcoal/BBQ supplies. those kind have a nice scraping thing, too, for big rust clumps.

don't use WD40 for lube, but to loosen rust or displace water/moisture is proper.

>>935434
Yeah, I know. I see the hole, and the end of the cable, but I can't thread the cable through. pushing the cable jjust makes it go further down the shifter rather than thread it through the hole

>>935500
>complete drivel
Good job proving you have no clue and don't even understand the difference between the damper unit and stanchion oil bath. >>935486 will see your advice for what it is.

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>>935525
>forgot pic

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Cans someone ID the frame of this bike?

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>>935528
It's been repainted, but it looks like a Cinelli Lazer. I can clearly see from some of the angles, and from having seen quite a few Lazers in my time.

Huh this isn't /lit/ how did I get here

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>>935525
>>935526
What is that image supposed to show exactly?

>don't even understand the difference between the damper unit and stanchion oil bath
What the fuck are you on about? The stanchion is lubricated by the same oil that flows through the dampers, if you're trying to say that they're separate in some way.

Like I said I've serviced forks before, I've had them apart and seen how they work.

>>935533
>The stanchion is lubricated by the same oil that flows through the dampers, if you're trying to say that they're separate in some way.
Yes. Yes, they are very much separate. They couldn't be more separate. One is inside a sealed unit, inside a sealed stanchion. The other sloshes around in the bottom of the slider and splashes up on the outside of the stanchions during use, lubricating the slide bosses and seals.

>>935530
It looks different to me.
I don't if this is just a /n/ version of Biscuit though.

>>935537
Fuck, i made no sense.
I don't know if this is a /n/ version of
>it's a brown recluse

What the fuck am I doing wrong

I'm trying to tune my rear derailer to work properly. But no matter how I fuck with the limit screws and barrel, it only shifts through 4-5 of the gears on my cassette. What am I missing?

>>935539
Did you shift the shifter to the highest gear while tugging the wire before fastening it to the derailleur?

>>935543
Yep, I got the cable tight and everything. Shifted it into the highest gear the derailer will actually go

>>935545
That doesn't make sense.
The order is important. Did you shift the _shifter_ to the highest gear before fastening the wire to the _derailleur_?

>>935546
Yep. Shifted it to the highest gear, got the cable fastened, tightened it up with the barrels

I'm really fucking clueless right now

>>935534
Have you ever had a fork apart? I ask because that's completely wrong. Oil has to transfer from the lower into the stanchion for the fork to work, via a valve at the bottom of the stanchion. Closing this valve off is what lockout does, it makes the lower a sealed area full of oil that won't compress.

>>935547
Highest gear === Smallest Cog.
Just
Saying

>>935550
m8 I know. I shifted it as high as it will actually go

>>935202
nej, m8, yosemite är skitdåliga cyklar

>>935551
If your limit screw for the high gear lets your derailer go out too far, then when you attach the cable, you'll need to pull all that space with your shifer, which won't let you reach the small gears.
About the only thing I can think of.

>>935548
>implying an oil pressure buildup in the sliders wont blow the pressfit scraper seals clean off, or at best squirt oil everywhere through their lip
That's some A grade lockout designed you dreamed up there buddy. And yes, I service forks. Just because you ones pulled a fork apart and formed some outlandish mental image of how they work doesn't mean you're right.

Look at this image again.
The black thing at the upper left is the compression/lock out in the sealed damper leg. See words like 'cartridge' and 'damper _seal_ head.' Bleeding the damper is done through the top.The right leg is the spring.
The stanchion lubrication is poured into the sliders and sloshes about where bottom bolts are. Very, very far from the lockout mechanism, and on the other side of the damper seals.

>>935557
*once pulled a fork

And file wouldn't attach because duplicate. It's here. >>935526

>>935557
If the stanchion was sealed there'd be no way to get oil into the lower as the rod that bolts into the lowers seals the hole at the bottom.

Perhaps it would help if you had a look through this 2005 Boxxer service manual: https://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/03_04BoxxerServiceGuide.pdf

You'll see that the oil is poured in through the top of the stanchion and only there. The oil then flows through a valve at the bottom of the stanchion, down the centre of the piston rod and then out through a hole to fill the lowers.

>>935551
Bent derailleur hanger?

>>935175
>And it shifts like SHIT,Its properly (re-)adjusted and it just slips for a quarter turn on the smallest 3 cogs.

A combination of a new, stiff chain and close ratios on the smallest rings may produce such result if you have the jockey wheels of the derailleur too close to the cassette. Try to put some turns into B-tension screw ( the one near the hanger )

>>935189
This is pure bullshit. HG-X is barely different then HG and the system used on sunrace cassettes. That is because the underlying principle is the same and known since the mid 90s. Stop spreading bullshit.

Hi guys,

I've never been on this board and am looking to buy a decent bike for a relatively cheap price ($200-300). I'm going to be riding it for my commute (4 miles a day). I was looking at hybrids because I feel really comfortable and it feels pretty lightweight

Didn't see any sort of sticky/guide- any recommendations? Was thinking of getting this Schwinn:

http://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-Mens-Wayfare-Hybrid-Bike/dp/B00TYB8QDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457121331&sr=8-1&keywords=schwinn+wayfarer

>>935568
>If the stanchion was sealed there'd be no way to get oil into the lower as the rod that bolts into the lowers seals the hole at the bottom.
Well, no shit Sherlock. If it didn't the lower leg oil would pour out from the hole. Stanchion lubrication is oured in through the bolt holes, fork turned upside down, before you install the bolts.
Perhas it would help if you read the service manual of any modern mountainbike fork similar to what GP might be commuting on and not your decade old DH fork?
Here's a Lyrik: https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/g1hymoLHJwcShkzaiBktJWF2xvHf5eCeWODfNwuHcVQ/mtime:1457044189/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen0000000005042_rev_c_2016_lyrik_service_manual.pdf

>>935602
Unfortunately, these days decent new bikes start in the 5-600 range. Before buying a poor quality new bike like that Schwinn, I'd call around and see if there's a bike shop (not Craigslist) near you that sells refurbished used bikes. After that, if you really must buy the Schwinn, get it and have a shop go through it to make sure there's grease in all the bearings, that way it will survive at least a couple years of light use, rather then grinding all the moving parts into oblivion and ruining the bike after a few weeks of use.

>>935610

okay cool, I guess I'd rather go to a used bike shop then. Would they be selling decent used bikes at the 200-300 range? Any reputable brands I should look out for? All I literally know is Schwinn

>>935615
Inventory is entirely up in the air. Lugged "Schwinn-approved" Japanese-built bikes are decent, as are Trek roadbikes and MTBs. Cannondale was the aluminum specialist; a roadie, hybrid, tourer, or rigid MTB would be good. Be aware that there will be a price floor for refurbs simply due to the labor involved in refurbishment.

>>935485
I'm 5'7 and I prefer a 16" or small mountain frame.

>>935615

use this thread.
>>929191

the faggot OP left out the pasta but what you do is post your local craigslist/gumtree/kajijijij thing, your height, inseam, budget, and what kind of riding you want to do. then anons will make recs either new or used, but at your budget, prob used.

>>935602
Beg, steal and borrow what you must to get a Kona/Scott/Giant or other brand name hybrid instead. I wouldn't wish that Schwinn on anyone.
Shop around for clearance deals, and you might find something at the top of your budget range.

Like this Pinnacle: https://www.evanscycles.com/pinnacle-lithium-1-2016-hybrid-bike-EV244087
They have some Cannondale "womens hybrids" for even less. Not at all impossible to get a new, good brand name bike for that money. Just a bit of work.

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>>935120
I wanna start biking to work sometimes now that I got a job that's close by. What would you guise recommend for a good all purpose bike that I could go on trails with and commute ? Also under 250$ I would even look at getting something used for cheaper

>>935590
>A combination of a new, stiff chain and close ratios on the smallest rings may produce such result if you have the jockey wheels of the derailleur too close to the cassette. Try to put some turns into B-tension screw ( the one near the hanger )
Thanks Im going to adjust the b-screw next but didnt do it today,Ill hope for some results soon

>>935642
wow, literally 2 posts above yours >>935625

>>935650
This is why some boards have stickies. We should at least have a sticky that says go to bqg and give details but the trainfags will start fuming

I'm looking to revamp my bicycle through a few cosmetic/mechanical jobs for the new season. I want to do this progressively and insure that everything fits neatly with the most up to date version of my bike. I outlined a general plan presented (in that order) below:

Brakes
First I need caliper brakes otherwise I'm unable to install the new brake levers I have and thus run cables brakes underneath bar tape. I have a pair of 39-49mm but they won't reach the rim all the way by a few millimiters so I'm guessing I need the next thing up, 47-57mm. Ideally, I would use a nutted brake but they're difficult to come by in black. I read on Sheldon Brown's website that fitting recessed on an older frame is doable (by alternating the rear and front brake).

Wheelset
Eventually, I'd like a new set of black rims but I'm unsure how this will fit with everything. I use a 6-speed freewheel right now and many wheelsets I see use cassette. I'd have to get a new cassette if I end up going with that.

Shifting
Should I replace the freewheel, I might change the derailleurs as well. Right now I have six cogs in the rear and three in the front. I was thinking of a new crankset as well, should I keep the 6-3 setup? I feel like trying to convert that might make the whole project more troublesome. However, I sometimes wish I could go faster. There's certainly improvment to be made in terms of physical condition but at the same time, I wish I had more options for fast riding. I could possibly change the chainrings or freewheel/cassette only for a different ratio. My chain is also rusty as hell so I will be changing that as well.

If anyone can give me pointers or point out things I might forget, especially in terms of compatibility between components.

Thank you for your time and help

>>935662
If you're thinking about replacing your brake levers, wheelset, derailleurs and chain, i dont see why you shouldnt just go to a double.

>>935662
There's way too much going on in your question/plan to really comment without knowing more about the existing bike, but it sounds like you're trying to retrofit a fairly basic old 'ten speed' road bike. What gearing, double or triple, you should/will go with really depends on your preferences - but I'd think a good place to start expanding your gearing would be with a new 7-sp freewheel on your existing wheel when you replace the chain, assuming that the wheel is not in immediate need of replacement.

>>935665
A double?

>>935668
Sorry I realized that only after posting. The bike is a Miyata 618GT commuter, 18 speeds. Due to the difficulty of finding wheels in my area, it will probably be the last thing I install.

The order I planned is brakes/levers,

Here's a two smaller questions: If I look for a 700c and 126mm-compatible wheel, am I likely to have trouble with brake reach?

Does a new 7sp freewheel automatically require new rear/front derailleur?

>>935678
>brakes/levers, chain, tires, freewheel, chainrings/crankset, wheels

fuck I submitted too quickly

can one change the length of threaded fork if you buy a fork not the correct length?
i'm guessing you can cut the streerer tube and tap threads into it?
why don't they make forks with threads all the way down that people can cut to size?

>>935678
Steel frames can be cold-set to use 130mm hubs

>>935688
Sweet, thanks, gives me quite a few more options. In terms of cassette/freewheel, will I need one with a specific number of cogs or can I swap between 6 and 7?

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>>935351

look on amazon for a wool buff

>>935678
zero issue putting a 130mm hub in a 126mm dropout if you can move it by hand.

I could barely tell the difference on the two bikes I've done this with.

I've even put 135mm in 130 on a steel bike, again no issues. Some people do it with aluminum. I won't go that far.

>>935690
The answer to that is more complicated. But I would stick to the original speeds intended for the shifter. See picture.

http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html

Can someone explain the physics of why mountain bike brake pads are long, and road bike pads short?

>>935712
I'm only gussing, but it might be because you have more legit ways to fall on a MTB.

Is MIPS just marketing shit or does it have any use? Honestly I'm not seeing the kind of proof that makes me go towards a MIPS helmet.

>>935351
I used to use two stretchy lycra pass-thru "socks" (don't know the right term in English). One on me neck ready to pull up and cover face if needed and the other under the helmet to not get icy forehead. Works great, but I only rode in about -5C and sunny/dry so it's not good enough for Arctic.

>>935712
Mountain bikes have smaller wheels (so less leverage from rim brakes) and more weight to stop, so they usually have stronger brakes and I suppose longer pads (I'm taking your word for this, I thought they were about the same but I haven't dealt with rim brakes in a while).

>>935712
I think it's >>935803 plus the fact that MTB's need more contact area to make sure they're not getting clogged with mud, dust and random trail shit.

what to do about glass shards, how to avoid punctures? Basically all cycle routes in the city are littered with them, it is a friday night's sport of throwing bottles on the road. You can outmaneuver for so long, but every couple of months you will miss some and you have to push home your bike which is annoying.

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I'm a very newby newb, I got this used MTB and everything is fine BUT the front derailer that acts up from time to time (sometimes it has troubles switching to a larger cog, sometimes it switches one time and a half, etc - it switches down no problems but going up has a 50/50 chance of not really working right and I have to switch down and up again.)

To my uneducated eye, the derailer looks way too high from the cog. Could it be the main source of problems? I also have to change the chain, as its worn.

Also from the pic it looks like the larger cog has two really worn teeth holy crap. Never noticed it before. Chain doesn't skip, btw.

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Do you guys have any specific method regarding wrapping handlebar tape? I watched a couple of video tutorials, but it seems to me that the way tape is wrapped is a matter of personal preference. Which way is the right one?

I am also unsure about how to wrap around brake levers. On some tutorials people used a short bit of tape to cover the brake mount, some others wrapped the tape multiple times around the brakes to get everything covered.

This was probably discussed here many times, but please do share some of your wisdom about wrapping handlebar tape.

>>935815
I would imagine most people do the left one. My hands have a tendency to rotate in that same direction when apply a pushing force and so it's going to tighten the tape, doing it the other way may cause the tape to unravel.

>>935814
The height looks fine, not that it matters all that much as the derailer only applies a sideways force to the chain. If it's not shifting up it seems like the shifter may not be pulling enough cable, try tightening it via the barrel adjuster at the shifter until it upshifts and then check to make sure it shifts back down. If not I guess it could be the shifter is broken or worn.

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>>935806
Tougher tires are the first place to start (Schwalbe Marathon Supreme, Continental Gatorskin), or you can put tire liners inside your existing tires (an inferior solution since liners will make your tire very stiff). To the second problem, you should always be carrying a patchkit/spare tube and a minipump so that you can fix your flat instead of walking home.

>>935797
Read and decide for yourself: http://www.bhsi.org/mips.htm

>>935686
Yes, you could cut a threaded steerer shorter if you really wanted to. The reason you don't see 'ready-to-cut' threaded steerers is that if you cut across threads, you'll still need the correct die to clean up the threads in the area you cut across, so it just makes sense to cut the steerer first and threads second. Also, there's very low demand for such a thing.

>>935814
Too many potential issues to address in a short post, go through this process step-by-step, then if you're still having problems we can troubleshoot specifics: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment

>>935815
Honestly you can wrap tape almost any way you want and have it work just fine as long as the tape is taught and evenly applied. I wrap mine starting from the bottom (with a locking plug) which keeps it in place best, and for direction I go around the bar in the same direction as my fingers do when riding (so that the tape will tend to tighten when gripped instead of the opposite) - the red arrows in your pic. At the brake levers I prefer to use the 'cheater strip' and just go around them normally - doing the loopy 8 around the lever body creates a bulge that can be uncomfortable under the hands. Note that with non-aero levers, you can loosen the brake levers from the clamp, wrap around the clamp, then tighten the levers back down for the ultimate in clean wrapping.

>>935824
>taught
*taut

>>935351
Mother nature has a great brand callled "Grow a beard you hipster fuck"


>>935806
Gatorskins

Legit gators are the solution to your problem. There's other brands of the same tire if you want but i like gators.

Plus, they're smooth. People underestimate bald tires.

>>935824
>Too many potential issues to address in a short post, go through this process step-by-step...

Thanks, I'll try as soon as have some time to test it outside. Just looking at the penny method I can see that the height is really wrong, I can fit like 5 pennies in that space.

I'll do that, then check the cable if I see that the situations doesn't improve.

Season is about to start and I haven't moved a muscle since the first snowfall months ago. Any pointers as to getting back in shape in 1-2 months? The first weeks of riding are always a pain.

>>935823
>>935824
Thanks, I'll wrap it in the direction of red arrow. I have aero brakes (or rather, I'll be installing them, which is the reason I have to wrap new tape in the first place), hopefully with the help of the short strip it will be all right.

>>935120
Planning on getting a bike to commute to work, and general exercise. Are there any wiki's or websites that will point a beginner in the right direction to choose a bike?

>>935829
Having asian genetics means you cant grow something dense or long on your face.

>>935815
Watch the parktool video on wrapping. Best on the internet.

>>935839
No. The bike market is far too volatile for that to work.
If your commute is longish you probably want an endurance roadbike, or gravel bike/cyclocross/drop bar hybrid if you plan on commuting in bad weather and/or through the winter.
If it's a short commute you could choose bike based on what kind of training you're interested in. Even a crosscountry mountainbike.

whats the best way to extend a quill stem and a seatpost on a bmx bike? Im converting it into a minivelo style of bike but im having some trouble getting the right ride height

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>>935865
Unless you're a dwarf don't bother. I'm guessing you fell for that shit in the mini velo thread, most of those bikes posted aren't BMXs and the couple that are have dangerously long seatposts and saddles and still won't be big enough for a normal sized adult to ride comfortably. I have a juvenile 22" wheeled road bike that I've adapted and even that is borderline for me at 5'10".

If you want a mini velo then buy a mini velo, or even look into a folding bike if you want something small.

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>>935175
update;The shifting has improved alot the first 15 miles,it's still not what I want (sometimes a rough shift is present) but its now very acceptable.

Maybe the problem will just sort out itself

>>935861
Live in south florida, so it's all flat as fuck and concrete. It's a fairly short commute, was told to look into a road bike or a hybrid. Just not sure what specs to look for, or even the best place to buy from.

>>935903
Dealer or on-line. Brand name, Claris or better (Sora, Tiagra, 105 - ito).
Buy something good looking and not too expensive, but not too cheap either. You don't want to be 'stuck' with it because you invested a lot of money and don't want to throw that away, and you also don't want to end up with a peice of rubbish.

I'll suggest the Kona Honky Tonk. It's good looking, cheap, well speced for a beginner and still looks casual.
The absolute top, number one error people do when buying their first bike is getting one the wrong size because they found a 'good deal' on CL. It's like a suit. It doesn't matter if it's the deal of a lifetime if it doesn't fit.
Other suggestions: Scott Speedster S40, Trek 1.5 C, Merida Scultura 100, whatever your local dealer carries.

>>935908
How do you measure it? Is it just based on your weight/leg length?

>>935912
>just leg length
No, but mostly yes. The rest is adjustible within reason, and the fit you find comfortable and efficient as a beginner will not be the same as the one you want after a year of riding, so starting off based on stand-over height is a good plan.

>>935915
Alright I'll give those brands a look through, might go to a dealer just to try them out, but I feel like they'll try and sell some ricer shit to a beginner.

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>>935916
That's why i suggested the Kona. Use it as a mental anchor, and you don't risk getting swept away. These are all ~700€ bikes.

>>935912

see chart
>>935654

also that is the thread you should be asking in, anyway. post your height/inseam and local craigs on there

>>935919
>suggests starting cheap so you don't regret it etc
>700€

M8 that's good used scooter money
not to sound like a bitch but if I wanted to suggest a cheap bicycle to get started with I'd go for sub 500. Ain't nothing wrong with an el cheapo Decathlon bicycle to get started and getting your feet wet before you make a decision, you can turn those over used easily.

How are wet wipes for cleaning a bike after a ride?

>>935948
well they work for my ass, so it should be fine for your bike

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>>935323
I build mine a few years back. Not perfect, it works. I had the wood and gas pipe lying around so the project cost me $20 total.

I followed this guide loosely.

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Portable-Bike-Repair-Stand/step11/Pitures-of-bike-stand-in-action/

>>935446
Park tools is good for bike maintenance. GCN is a bit freddy, but they have some neat content

>>935964
So far i am subscribed to Park Tools, Fixie Shop (they have really cool assembly vids), Josh Estey (it's more World than cycling), Velocite Tech Co. and Pithy Bikes.

Kona Sutra/Cannondale Touring 1/Surly LHT

best bang for my buck?

>>935983
Country?

I have a pretty cheap single speed commuter/project bike which I am considering upgrading to have a disc brake at the front (The stock brakes are really bad). This would require a new fork, wheel and the brake which I can get for about £150 in total. is it worth it? or should I just spend some money on better rim brakes?

>>936062
kool stop salmon. new cables

>>936062
>is it worth it?
Just get v-brakes, mate.

>>936069
The forks don't have the mounting points for v brakes.

>>936070
Weld them.

>>936070
Welp.
Use your foot, maybe.
It's a one speed, right? Doesn't it have a torpedo brake?

>>936074
Its fixed gear with a fron't caliper

>>936078
>fixie
serves you right!

>>935642
cyclocross bike

>>935983
fuji touring

Want to upgrade to clipless pedals relatively soon, last thing I really need to buy before I've got all the essentials and it's just a case of upgrading and what not (except a maintenance stand, I guess)

Anyway, been doing a bit of research and most people recommend MTB pedals (I'm not going to be racing and the difference is negligible, MTB just seems far more convenient).

Just wondering if I should go with commuter style pedals that have a flat side and an MTB style (cheapest I can find are 29.99 GBP Shimano A530s), or just get a regular double sided MTB pedal (which are a fair bit cheaper and I imagine are easier to clip into)

Also, I assume the pedals will come with the correct cleats and mounting screws, and that I'm going to have to purchase a 15mm wrench since I don't have one?

>>936118
I think most modern pedals are screwed in with either 6 or 8mm allenkeys, you might not be able to actually get pedals out with just the key though?

For the sidedness, yes it's much easier to clip into a double sided pedal. So it depends if you want to be able to comfortably use your bike with normal shoes as well. MTB shoes with recessed cleats are fine for walking around the shops, so that's up to you.

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>>936121
I thought pedals were attached using a 15mm wrench that screws them into the crank body? I already have allen keys, I just don't think that's the tool I need to install a new set of pedals.

Just a pain in my arse trying to find some entry level MTB pedals and shoes. The ~£30 shoes are all out of stock for my size, and the pedals are just more expensive.

Going to cost me about £45 for pedals+shoes if I get some cheap shimano road pedals and cheap dhb shoes.

Whereas my cheapest option for MTB shoes is £40 for shoes and £30 for the pedals.

+ £10 for a wrench that won't bend on the first use.

Already spent £100 this week on a new helmet and cheap rain/windproof jacket.

>>936123
Most pedals can be done up with either a spanner or an allen key in the end of the bolt.

If you want to be able to walk round the shops or round town in cleats then road shoes won't work, take the hit and buy the right pedals and shoes. If you do get cliples pedals that double as flats then you don't have to buy the shoes immediately, you can buy them later down the road.

>>936135
Quick question

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-a530-spd-single-sided-touring-pedals/

and

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-pd-a520-touring-pedals/

I assume it's just wiggle fucking up, but one of them say's Road compatible, the other says they're MTB compatible, but they both look like they have the same (MTB) cleat system and from the namign one is just a newer model of the last.

These should both work with recessed cleat shoes, right?

Want to order these by 5 oclock so I have some hope of getting them by the end of the week.

>>936139
They use the same cleats - the A530 is a half-platform, the A520 is really a one-sided clipless pedal. If you're looking for a double sided pedal, the basic one is the M520. All three are compatible with recessed mount shoes.

>>936139
Yeah, they are both mtb cleats. For the extra quid I would go with the 530 as the flat pedal side looks way better.

>>936141
What's the difference between the 'half platform' and one-sided pedals?

I'm after a single sided clipless pedal so I can use regular shoes for commuting short distances or MTB shoes and clip in for longer cardio rides.

Both (A520 and 530) seem to be the same to me (only differing in aesthetics), although clearly I don't know much on the topic.

>>936143
The bottom of the 520 is not a platform intended to be ridden on, the 530 is.

is it allright to put enve decals on my rims even when they aren't enve ?

>>936184
Go for it, bonus point if your fakenve rims are used on a bike with a stepthrough frame or a 60's Schwinn or something along those lines.

>>936186

It's going to be a commuter , but not that shit.

the next time I have to fix some girls bike, I'll enve her wheels though.

>>936189
I'll enve your mom's wheels

Just realised I posted this in the wrong thread
>>936163

>>935568
Anon, you try really hard to prove how stupid you are

>>936212
How so? Those Boxxers function exactly as I said as do many other forks, I was not wrong about that. Yes that other guy's newer fork is different, but that doesn't mean that all forks or the other anon's fork functions that way.

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2 hr ride today on new mtb. I feel like my wrist is turned too far in toward the center of my body. These bars are only slightly wider than my last ones that caused no pain but my stem is much shorter. My wrist and forearm are in srs pain. How fix? I hope i can just slide my seat back cause these bars weren't cheap..

>>935299
After several emails to MRP and a trip to the LBS, all i had to do was tighten a 3mm screw on the compression "selector". It was actually not traveling at all w/o the "blow off" before. Now I cant tell the diff between open and mid but idc as long as it moves now.

>>936259
Put the old stem back on and see if that solves your problem.

what is to cycling as a 5k is to running? I want to have a point of comparison when I talk to coworkers who are runners

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>>936259

If >>936279 doesn't work:

Buy some bars with more "sweep" (bent back towards you)

Last try some Ergon style grips. Better to make sure it's not a fit issue first which it probably is. Ergon is more for cruising for hours than for real off-roading imho

>>936184

It's 100% memeular if that's what you're asking

>>936305
A decent 5k is what, half an hour? In cycling you could do a solid 15 km or a bit more in the same amount of time, but from what I've frequently heard it's a lot easier to cycle for the same amount of time as run. So it's not easy to compare. Maybe a 40km time trial?

>>936305
I'm not a runner, but my understanding of 5k 'events' is that they're short and easy enough for anyone to complete unless they have major physical impediments.

The closest thing I can think of in cycling would be just riding a hybrid/cruiser/upright bike on a flat path for 30-60 minutes at a moderate pace - it's something pretty much anyone can do, no athleticism required.

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What is the difference between these two? I realise I took the picture a bit shit so you can't see but they are both the same size. The one on the left says cruiser tyre and the one on the right says mountain bike/road tyre.

>>936358
One is for whites the other is for blacks.

>>936358
The obvious visible thing is the tread. Left is for tarmac and well maintained trails.

Right looks like a moderately quick MTB tyre, smooth centre with corner lugs, probably for dry more than muddy trail use.

>>936372
Cheers. I ride mainly on the road but get the occasional sticks and other crap lying in the bike lanes. I also sometimes go over grassy areas but nothing really mountain-bikey so I guess they should be fine.

I ended up with both because they were together and cheap and only one of each. Since they are different which one should I put on the front and which on the back?

>>936373
>I ended up with both because they were together and cheap and only one of each
lel
I'd put smooth on the back and knobbies on the front, but that's me.

>>936376
Such is life friend. I will keep an eye out if they restock and see if I can grab a second one so that I have the same on both ends. You reckon I should go for the left cruiser-style one? I figure it would suit my rides fairly well. The worst I get is maybe some wet grass or a slightly muddy gravel puddle.

>>936379
Sounds like the cruisers should suit you well.
And it's not like those couldn't handle some off-road, just don't go DH wild or something.
Cheers.

>>935879
i just want something novelty that i can have fun on. I've already got a commuter workhorse , a mountain bike, and in a couple weeks ill have a road bike too, so i just want something goofy that i don't have to be super serious about riding.

>buy a minivelo or a folding bike

why would i do that when i can get the same effect for a fraction of the cost, plus the satisfaction of doing/converting something myself. it's not like im going to be bombing huge jumps and tearing it up on trails or something so i think ill be fine if i get beefy enough components as far as stem and seatpost go

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Wanting to turn this into my new tourer/commuter.

Gonna swap out tires for some slicks. Any recs on those? Should I do a wheel swap with a 700c set for easier/more common replacement instead?

Wanna put drop bars on it. Should I reuse the current stem for a more upright position?

Should I go integrated shifters or throw some clamp on DT shifters? I feel like friction shifters for a bang around commuter/tourer is a better choice. Before it's even suggested I don't want barend shifters.

How much kit should I own? I currently only have one pair of bibs so I have to do laundry basically every major ride. Is it worth it to get one more pair? Two?

>>936465
I think the minimum is two, that way you can wash (or just rinse out in the shower) your kit after each ride, and not have to worry about it air-drying in time for the next ride.

>>936464
1. No way would I switch to 700c, even if they fit you'd have issues fitting caliper brakes. For slicks, go for Panaracer Paselas or the Compass 26" tires (a lightweight variant of the base Pasela)
2. If that saddle height is appropriate for you, that stem isn't going to work with drops, you'd need something much taller.
3. Well, bar-ends really are the logical choice if you want to stick with friction. You may not be able to find downtube shifters with the right clamp size for that tube.

>order some shit from wiggle
>get some haribo and some of those zero branded electrolyte capsules to drop in your water bottle
>I only use 750ml bottles and the capsules are for 500ml
>Literally no taste because it's so watered down

Do these things actually work or not? I expect not to notice even if they do because I ride just for cardio and to explore new areas (although the amount of hills near me + how unfit I am after winter I get near my threshold more than I should for recreational rides)

Saying that, I got some SIS gel tabs in my last delivery, and was expecting them not to do anything, and I noticed a massive difference (took them when I got to the mid point in my ride). Might be partly due to me not having any caffeine elsewhere in my diet, so the effect was amplified (I love the smell of coffee, I just hate the taste.)

>>936207
Depends on the style of glasses. I've got those dorky hipster glasses that have the plastic nose piece rather than the metal and rubber pads, they do a pretty good job of keeping the wind from hitting my nose, rolling down the sides and into my eyes, whereas regular glasses (with the metal arms and pads) wouldn't do that.

I assume unless you're legally blind or some shit (in which case you wouldn't just now be getting glasses), you should be more than able to ride without them. I've worn glasses since I was 4 or 5 and can still see well enough to not need them while riding (or driving, still where them anyway though), so you can just keep using whatever regular sunglasses you were using beforehand.

>>936464
Regarding the slicks, it depends what you want. I ran ThickSlicks on my commuter during the summer, they grip the pavement very well and roll very fast. They are not great in the rain, and it if ever snows or ices you are totally fucked. Now I run panaracer paselas, because it's been winter. Thet're pretty slick, but they have some tread. They roll much faster than the knobbies, but not as fast as true slicks. I think they're a great all-around touring/utility tire.

>>935964
>gas pipe lying around
Why didn't you just build a surley?

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I finally decided to change from flat bar to drop bars. However, I have a question about that.

My bike is equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. It uses MTB brake calipers. Is it necessary to change those to road calipers? Or are the road shifters/brakes (RS685) compatible with MTB calipers? And what hydraulic cables do I need?

I can buy a complete groupset but that also includes the crank and derailleurs which makes it too expansive.

>>936479
>implying surly uses high quality gaspipe for their abominations

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>>935530

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how big of a tire can my bike fit? Also, what's a good all-rounder CX tire?

I have 700x32 tires now and the measured distance between the forks is 50mm. I would like wider tires. bls helb

>>936485
Can you even buy those levers separately? I can only find them bundled with calipers (and hoses too, pre-filled and ready to fit). It's gonna be a costly upgrade, running drop bars with discs is one of the few cases where cable brakes make sense.

Another option would be to ghetto rig your current parts onto some drop bars (shifters on the flats), although I'm not sure if the clamp size would be correct so they may need to be bored out or packed with shims.

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I'm in need of some cheap fkkn tires(23/25-622)
The LBS has schwalbe lugano for 17,50 and CST Czar fo 20 euro

Any idea whats better?I has a FUCKtonne of puncure o my old bontrager tires (dunno which model,the name has worn away)

Thanks in advance

>>936525
Conti Ultra Sport are my default recommendation for cheaper tires.

>>936485
>>936492
1. I expect (but would want to verify the specific parts) that your current brake calipers will be compatible with Shimano's road hydraulic levers.
2. I did some searching and I found a few places online where you can get the levers separately, but note that they don't include hose and necessary connectors - and you'll need the tools to trim the hose and fill/bleed the system if you're looking to do all the work yourself.

>>936525
luganos are terrible for grip, if you can spring a fe bucks more get something better.

>>936525
They both suck. Vittoria Rubino Pro folding bead is wot I'd go with.

>>936576
I don't like Vittorias.

Among equal tier tires, for me, it's something like this

Conti > Michelin > Veloflex >Vittoria > Hutchinson > Maxxis > CST > Schwalbe

I usually settle of Michelin because Contis are expensive for equivalent tires

i wanna go touring from alberta to saskatchewan this summer, which should be downhill and prairies
i have a 700c wheel with nexus 8 IGH
do you think i can tour with it geared with a 25t cog and a 42t chainring or should i spend big money getting a derailleur drivetrain?
i have a jtek bar end shifter so indexing is much more precise than POS shimano shifter

>tldr: nexus 8 touring or no it'll explode?

>>936485
The 105 level rs505 shifters will probably be cheaper

With how expensive the shimano hydraulic disc stuff is it's really not that cost effective to convert a flatbar with hydraulics to a drop bar with them

>>936207
>>936471
You could try something like these maybe

http://www.zennioptical.com/glasses/men/Full-Rim-Plastic/Sporty-Eyeglasses?Prescription-Single-Vision&title=Sporty%20Eyeglasses|0

http://www.zennioptical.com/glasses/men/Sports-and-Goggles?Prescription-Single-Vision

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can anyone id this model? want to get something like this to do a fixed-gear conversion

>>936615
lel trust me, you don't

>>936622
well there internet stranger- excuse me if i dont exactly just take your word for it

please exaplin

would it be completely stupid to get a track bike and use it for commuting as well?

>>936615
Looks like a fairly ordinary mid-90's hybrid. Previous anon is right that you don't want that particular frame for a fg conversion (vertical dropout).

>>936628
Not necessarily stupid, though a full on track bike isn't ideal for most commutes (lack of brakes, aggressive posture not comfortable for long periods, not very well suited if you need to bring more than a tiny amount of stuff with you).

>>936581
>schwalbe right at the bottom

why

>>936705
Not him, but completely shit QC and consistency across god knows how many outsourced factories all over asia. That shit is acceptable at the bottom end, but when even high end tyres have mis-aligned tread, sidewall print going all over the place at all kinds of angles and bead diameter tolerance can be summed up as 'laissez farie', it's not funny any more.

That said, I have Schwalbe tyres on two out of four bikes at the moment because reasons. Will not replace them with more of the same. Their studded winter tyres are nice though.

people who keep your bikes outside/doors, how do you keep the chain&cogs from rusting?

>>936628
An actual track bike or a "track bike"? The former would be completely stupid, latter can be fine.

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>>936628
Using a full on track bike wouldn't be the best option for Street use. Due to the aggressive geometry track specific bikes usually translate into a harsher ride as opposed to a fixed gear bike with city use in mind. Of course this is all a matter of preference with a couple things to concider sprinkled I. Such as road condition and topography.

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>>936733
>msw that poor merckx

>>936728
not that anon, but what of a langster pro?

>>936740
Looks an awful lot like a serious track bike, mate.

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hey guys,
do you know what i could do in order to make it look better? any ideas? tips?
i'm a total bike noob btw

>>936740
Completely stupid. Or at least highy impractical. Street-oriented fixies like the Paddy Wagon at least offer the basic comforts and accommodations.

>>936740
Actual track bike. Bare minimum it needs brake mounts.

>>936741
>>936743
>>936744

always loved that frame, not gonna buy it, and if i was i would get the normal langster

>>936742
Look better or be better?

>>936746
look better
but if you have any advice on how to make it better (and what) i'd also appreciate it

>>936747
Lose all the reflectors for starters. Really though if your main priority is its looks replace it with something else, it won't ever be a looker.

You could make it better so it's a practical beater bike, start with levelling out the saddle and giving it a tune up.

>>936747
Get rid of the kickstand and carrier. Get a real saddle. The seatpost qiuck release folds into the main triangle, or behind the seat stay.
Get a stem with a downward angle. Toss the chainguard (black plastic thing on the chain rings). Replace the spoke reflexes with a strip of 3M SOLAS in some strategic place, or tyres with reflex strip. Also ↓
Get a set of halv-decent tyres appropriate for the riding you mean to do.

>>936749
>>936752

ok thank you guys!
i think i'll just use it as a beater bike and leave it as it currently is

My bullhorn bars point away from the center, will this hurt my wrists?

>>936771
Yes, that's what they're for. Freds give them away as gifts to noobs that might threaten their reign as kings of the road, to fuck their wrists up before they become contenders.

>>936774
How can they keep getting away with it?

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>>936784
Because they control cycling and cycling communities.

>>936789
We must do something!

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>>936794
NEVAR! This is now a spiderman thread.
(Plz to be no more plotting against Freds.)

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I'm ok with this

Comfiest saddle that isn't a Brooks?

>>936802
Saddles are like skoes. It's impossible to say.
Brooks are a meme, and people tell themselves that it might be incredibly uncomfortable for the first few thousand miles, but once their ass shapes itself after the saddle it'll be just as great as they've read on the internet that it should be.
Unless it rains first, because then it's ruined. But that only proves how "genuine" the experience is.

-

I like the Selle Italia X2, but your ass might not. If you go to a half decent dealer they'll measure your seat bones and have various bright yellow testing saddles for you to loan for long term testing.

Or do what I did and buy a handfull of cheap saddles in different shapes and widths and start testing.
Start by measuring your seat bones. The big saddle manufacturers then have guides that put you in the right ballpark.

What exactly are fiziks K:um rails? And how do they compare to other rails?

Are rails something easy to rank?

>>936825
Just take the weight of the saddle, and decide if you're okay with carbon rails, and if you are okay with carbon rails, if ovalized rails are compatible with your seatpost.

It's really not that hard anon.

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>>936808
Brooks are memes is a meme. I just got a b17. It is already comfy as hell.

Have you owned a brooks? What are you basing this bias off? Even if you can find a few people who don't like them you're saying yourself that saddles are relatively subjective, and a huge proportion of long distance touring cyclists, sheldon included, ride and love them.

>>936802
Terry Fly Ti Gel.

>>936615
looks like the GT womens' Arette and Passage models, but the decals aren't right. the Raleigh Detour is very similar.

like anon said, that dropout will defeat a fg conversion. so blustering at the other anon made you look stupid. but anyone who does a fg conversion is stupid anyhow.

>>936753
different anon.

like you say, leaving it as-is is the way to go, BUT you really do need to level that saddle. and all your quick-release levers are going to snag shit. fold them so they're tucked next to/cradling the nearest tubing.

kind of a neat old bike, for a beater.

>>936835

Is there a reason to not be ok with carbon rails?

>>936865
Some people are paranoid, care must be taken so as not to over tighten the clamp, and some types of clamp won't grip tight enough without being tighten too much for carbon rails (mainly the old type where the clamp is separate from the seat post).

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I bought pic related a while ago, then upgraded and sold to a friend. It's old, and needs wheels. Where should I start?
1973(I think) American Eagle Kokusai

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>>936882
if that stem has AVA stamped into it, it's got to be put into the garbage. the metal is known to fail on that model, called the "deathstem"

no real advice on wheels, but those might be 27s on there, they were common for that era. if so, you can get 700s for it but the brake pads may not reach the rims, depending on the calipers. so if they are 27s and you choose 700s as a replacement, you may need new brakes, too. but if they're already 700s on there then you're fine.

Is there a reason to specifically use drop bar levers over cross levers on a moustache bar?

Cycling caps: when and where?

>>936945
Under your helmet
When you're on a podium for winning a cycling race

>>936882
>>936886

I have a 1977 Nishiki International, which is supposed to be the same make and model as that, only renamed. I replaced the original 27s with 700c wheels, but the original Dia Compe centerpulls still work with the new wheels. I guess you'll be fine, man.

hey guys,
I want to buy my first road bike.
i found two differend models which i think are pretty good. could you please tell me what you think about them?
one of them is a cyclocross. I'm not shure if i'm going to need a cx but where i live are a lot of dirt roads. do i really need a cx for dirt roads or can i also ride the road bike on them?
radon-bikes.de/bikes-2016/roadbike/roadbike-training/r1/r1-ultegra/
cube.eu/produkte/road-race/cross-race/cube-cross-race-whitenred-2016/
the other thing is that i'm not really sure about the spezific frame sizes of the bikes (an online calculator said 58 cm).

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Hi /bqg/

Not really a bike question but more of a biking question. I notice that when I go on longer rides my legs start to feel a bit heavy and dont want to do much work after about 1:30-2:00 hours of riding. Im using a HR band and I notice that my HR drops to a significantly lower level at that point simply because my legs cant keep up anymore. I always ride very hard, trying to maintain a good average speed, usually average about 170bpm until my legs start protesting and then it stays around 155bpm. Also I can feel cramps setting in at that point but I always manage to react fast enough to not make it cramp all the way, not a very comfortable way of riding a bike.

Now are my legs giving out just because im pushing too hard and my muscles simply cant handle any more or is it a nutrition thing? My riding diet is water and cheap muesli bars because I am a cheapass. Is it worth investing in expensive powder to make electrolyte drinks and that kind of shit or is that all marketing crap?

sorry for long post, also sorry if wrong thread, did not really know where else to post it.

>>935509
I managed to get it clean enough. Not shiny but enough so it doesn't leave a trace when I wipe a towel on it.
I cleaned the chain as well, enough not to leave a brownish trace on a towel.

Then, I let it dried in the sun and the next day I applied some "multi purpose high viscosity oil".

I applied some, turned the gears for a minute or so then wiped the excess.

Now, the chain leaves a black residue when I touch it. Is it good or was I too gentle with the oil wiping after the lubrication?

>>936962
I'd say it depends how well maintained the dirt roads are. You absolutely can ride a road bike on most dirt roads, but you'll lose speed more rapidly as the road quality decreases compared to something more suited to the terrain. It looks like you could maybe fit 28mm on the road bike (something like gravel kings for a bit more grip) but any gains on the stock tyres are going to be pretty marginal.

Also if it gets muddy (and you plan to ride in those conditions) the cross bike would be miles better.

They both look like perfectly cromulent bikes in any case.

Also keep in mind while you can put racing slicks on the cross bike to make it faster on the road, you can't really do the same the other way around.

>>936963
It might be nutrition. Can always take more food with you. Nutella sarnies are good and cheap.

Might be electrolytes. You don't need to spend the world, a tube of dissolving tablets can be had for $5 from wiggle. No harm in trying, although the sorbitol in some of them may give you gnarly farts.

It might also just be a fitness issue, keep pushing the longer rides and they should get easier.

Do you know your maximum heart rate? 170 could be pushing it quite hard (based on your time figure, probably not threshold at least but certainly high zone 3 is likely), which means that level of exertion simply is NOT sustainable regardless of what other things you're doing.

>>936995
thank you very much!

>>936996
>Do you know your maximum heart rate? 170 could be pushing it quite hard (based on your time figure, probably not threshold at least but certainly high zone 3 is likely), which means that level of exertion simply is NOT sustainable regardless of what other things you're doing.

Never really tried to figure out max heart rate but on short steep climbs, where I tend to destroy myself on in a little sprint, I usually get up to 185-190.
I know 170 is pushing it because I can clearly feel thats about as hard as I can go without getting tired after a few minutes. I am just a bit dissappointed in my legs giving out when the rest of my body still feels happy and energetic. So its normal for the legs to give way before you really start getting out of breath or anything like that?

need a bike for cycling 3 miles every day, not much else.

i'm set on getting a hybrid, budget is about £200.

is the carrera subway 2 good?

>>937036
>hydro disc brakes on an entry level hybrid

what the flying fuck

And I'd really recommend looking at second hand at that budget.

>>937040

are hydro disc brakes good or bad?

>>937042
Fundamentally they're good, but they're also usually a high end component.

>>937043
I don't know what universe you live in, but flat bar hydros are cheaper than cable pull these days, and have been for a good few years. By quite some margin.

>>937045
I live in a universe where drop bar knowledge does not transfer well, apparently.

Live and learn.

>>937042
They're fine, it's just weird to see them on a cheap bike. Usually, cheap hybrids have mechanical disc brakes, if they have disc brakes at all. Never heard of the brake's brand, Clarks, but reviews indicate that they're decent enough.

Rest of the bike seems alright. If it goes forward when you pedal and stops when you squeeze the levers, it'll work for 3 mile rides. Although if it's a flat ride, maybe look for a singlespeed so that you never have to worry about fucking about with gears and having derailers adjusted.

>>937048
cheers m8

https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/carrera-subway-2-disc-hybrid-bike-2014-model-medium-frame.original-cost-%C2%A3395...sell-%C2%A3955-/1161344348

i might give this guy a call, £95 isn't bad.

>>936974
cleaning the exterior of the chain is fine but the pivots with all the moving parts are interior and still grimy. the new oil absorbed all that and now it's bleeding it to the surface. you can keep wiping it but the dirt in there is still going to create wear and also gunkimafy the lube. now, SOME amount of residue is inevitable on any chain after some time on the road. but we know your drivetrain was abused by the prev owner, so your chain really does need cleaning (or replacing--your call.)

you need to take the chain off. an older chain without a quicklink requires a chain tool AKA a rivet tool for removal. (DON'T POP THE PIN ALL THE WAY OUT OF THE 2ND PLATE!)

coil chain into a mason jar and pour degreaser over it; cap and shake vigorously. it will be black as night immediately. pour off the soiled degreaser and repeat until the degreaser comes out the same color it started as. it's going to be quite a few applications. wipe down and let dry thoroughly (I like to use the toaster oven on low, but sunlight or just a lot of time is OK) re-attach the chain.

>"multi purpose high viscosity oil".
is probably not terrible, but neither is it ideal. Tri-Flo is in many hardware stores, and there are tons of chain-specific lubes: Dumonde, Finishline, White Lightning etc. A bit pricey but a little goes a long way. they come in handy dropper-style bottles, too.

anyway: one drop over each pivot, backpedal the crank by hand a few times, let soak ~10 min, pinch a rag around the chain and crank backwards with the other hand to wipe down. done.

alternatively, if you've got a pot you don't care about you can dunk the whole chain in melted paraffin after you clean and dry it. paraffin is sold with canning supplies at the supermarket.

>>937049
That years model doesn't have hydros though. SRAM shifters is nice. Saddle looks shit tier, as well as stem. Figue the cost of future upgrades in that department, and new chain/cassette, against the price of buying 2015/2016 new and also getting hydros from the start.

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Does someone know what the new cable pull ratio is of the new shimano rear derailleurs?
Old shimano was 2:1
SRAM is 1:1
New shimano 1:1

>>937058
>>New shimano 1:1

looks like you just answered your own question, chief.

>>937059
Oh wow I was actually meaning to type
>New shimano ?:?

So it is 1:1?

>>937062
>>937058
>oversimplified as fuck
https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Gear-changing_Dimensions#Shifter_Cable_Pull

>>937062
fucked if I know, m8

:DDDDDDDDDD

>>937062
If I were to venture a guess I'd say it's probably the same as 11-speed. But neither have official, published ratios from Shimano AFAIK. They used to publish this info, but stopped before the 11-speed groups came out.

>>937072
>They used to publish this info, but stopped before the 11-speed groups came out.
Who let schlomo shecklestein work at shimano?

Need a cheap commuter bike. I don't have to go super far, at most 1/2 mile a day. But I have to haul a decent amount of stuff on my back. I have no idea if I'll really be into riding this bike more then to and from campus, but if I do, I would like to have something I could do small upgrades here and there.

Is this reasonable? http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1185818_-1_400306__400306
I know it's single gear, can I upgrade it later to have multiple gears?

Or, should I just sink 300+ bucks on something at my local bike store?
I've also been looking for second hand bikes, but so far I haven't really had any luck.

>>937089
>I know it's single gear, can I upgrade it later to have multiple gears?
Anythings possible. You can, technically, but you could also "techincally" rebuild it into a rotary wing aircraft. What you'll need is a new rear wheel/hub, a groupset and an add-on derailleur hanger - and now you've spent way more money than if you'd just bought a bike with gears in the first place, and you've still ended up with something inferior.
>Or, should I just sink 300+ bucks on something at my local bike store?
Go online. You can easily find a decent rim brake hybrid and a good rack for about that much money.
You can't afford a drop bar tourer. Either adjust your budget, or your expectations.

>>937058
http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/

here's some info for smart people by smart people who figured out shimano's ratios and shit with fancy math

i don't understand any of this shit and just wanna ride

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hi, first of many questions here:

ook so whats the deal with this things? i bought this bike and its got one of these Custom quill stems and from what I read over on Sheldon Brown one day it's going to explode launching me headfirst off a bridge at 60mph.

so i'm looking at the Nitto stems but it seems the only model that isn't expensive as hell is the technomic except i don't want the minimum height for my handlebars suddenly rocketing up to an entire foot above my saddle. Am i going to have to get one of the Pearl/Jaguar stems or is this whole exploding quill stem hype a total myth?

Thanks

>>937204
>read over on Sheldon Brown
Source? I couldn't find shit. The only quill stems I've known to be dangerous are the Ava style that use a cone forced up into the centre of the quill to expand it, not the sliding wedge type. The expanding type are dangerous because shit metal and slots in the quill lead to stress cracks forming.

>>937204
as
>>937207
said I knew about the AVA deathstem but never heard of any others. using google to search variations on "custom quill stem" gives me nada with "sheldon brown" or anywhere.

please cite source

>>937056
Thanks a lot man.

>>937204
>>937207
>http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html#danger
source is all the way at the bottom of the page

>>936960
So just any old 700 wheels set?

>>937204
that's an sr brand stem, reputable as hell and not dangerous at all. Nitto dynamics off amazon are reasonably cheap, would be stiffer, lighter, stronger and with a nicer finish but i wouldn't bother unless you're finessing your fit and want a different length.

Grease the bar/ clamp, grease the wedge, and insert to the/ past the insertion line and it'll be fine

Cinelli 1A off wiggle is another good new quill, but the nittos are slightly taller and better quality.

>>937216
yo dude are you 100& sure.. sheldon said it here >>937212 btw

also how do i figure out if a quill stem is too short horizontally for me? how do i know if i should maybe get another one anyway about 10-20mm longer?

what if i put deep drop nitto jaguar onto road bike? will i still be able to ride centuries? will i regret it?

very informative though, thank you

>>937212
I really wouldn't trip about having the bolt behind the bars, nitto makes some of their stems like that and they're the best. Just make sure you shim it if you're using a bar which is smaller than the clamp.

>>937218
>they're the best
i'll interpret that as
>none of thems blown up yet
but its only a matter of time imo desu

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>>937212
If you're referring to that last image, that's a different style to your stem. With that one the slot for the clamp that goes around the bar is cut into the top of the stem which thins out the part of the stem that extends forward. Yours is full thickness right to the clamp. Very few stems are like that one that broke, this is the only photo of one I could find but even it looks like it keeps some significant thickness.

>>937219
>but its only a matter of time imo
Don't take everything Sheldon has said as gospel.

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>>937217
Not everything on Sheldon's site should be taken as gospel truth, and that's one weird assertion considering that millions of stems made by Cinelli, Nitto, and other companies (including those "custom" stems that were stock on many thousands of mass produced bikes) in that style and failures are extremely rare.
>how do i figure out if a quill stem is too short horizontally
It's the same for all stems - you want to be able to reach your primary riding position comfortably with a slight bent in your elbows.

A common rule of thumb on road bikes for stem length is that your bar and front hub should be pretty much exactly lined up when you look down.

>>937214
there's like a billion models of 700 wheels.

figure out what you want in terms of compatibility with your existing shifters (or upgrade to more gears and replace shifters, too) what range of gearing you want (what cassette or freewheel to get) and compatibility of the largest cog with the cage length on your existing derailleur (or you can upgrade that, too,) rims, hubs, how many spokes, budget, and go from there.

>>937224
whew thanks i'll go give that a try it right now.
btw do you have a similar image for being ass deep aero into the drops? what should i see then?

>>937208
>AVA
AVA stems are some of the best. They're among the lightest quill stems because they use a smaller conical expander with thinner walls instead of a wedge, and the lengthwise extension is drilled out and hollow, which is what makes modern threadless stems light.

The death part can be fixed, you just need to relieve the sharp edges in the slits that act as stress risers

>>937238
I see what you're saying but the rumor was that the metallurgy was faulty, not anything about the expander.

but anyway, assuming you're right, most people finding an old bike with that stem aren't going to know it needs fixing, much less how. warning them off it altogether seems reasonable.

>>937238
>>937242


for AVA stems cast in the 70s, this guy says what you said but also
>The quality of the aluminum was still equally a problem, as failures higher up the stem are also common.

http://theheadbadge.blogspot.com/2012/08/death-stems-demystified-ava-and-atax.html

>>937242
>I see what you're saying but the rumor was that the metallurgy was faulty, not anything about the expander.
It's the way the expander slits are cut. Wedge stems don't have these.

>>937243
>The quality of the aluminum was still equally a problem, as failures higher up the stem are also common.
That picture could have just as easily been the crack starting at the slit, migrating up towards the top of the steer tube. One that crack was there, it followed the stress riser caused by the stem pressing against the steer tube, and crack. You'll notice how the failure is on the stem part that goes in the steer tube, and the picture shows the stem pretty scuffed up, indicating it really didn't fail that high up on the stem.

The ones with metallurgy problems are more likely to fail at the bar clamp, because that's where there's a large amount of force on the stem.

Again, AVA stems are some of the best and the lightest. As Sheldon notes, many were 22.0mm, making the expander problem even worse than it was.

>>937250
nigger, you're smoking a rock. there's whole forum threads of old guys verifying that AVA stems failed while they were riding, and you've got the gall to say
>>Again, AVA stems are some of the best

you are high as fuck.

>>937251
That's because they didn't fix the slits by drilling out the stress risers and/or used a 22mm stem in a 22.2mm hole. AVA stems are singifigantly lighter than other high quality stems such as Nitto or Cinelli because they are hollow.

>>937259
>best*
>* - assuming the end user modifies the part**
>** - failure to do so may result in catastrophic failure
If that's how you define "best" then I have a really nice Free Spirit to sell you.

>>937267
>after not using the right spec part
>after decades of use

>>937267
I think he's just trying to see what the most obviously false thing he can say that will still troll people is. or maybe his dad invented the AVA stem or something.

just leave him alone, m8.

I've got my bike all reassembled and ready to go. Last thing to do is run brake and shifter cabling. Can anyone recommend or link some cable housing and cables? I'd like to do them myself instead of paying LBS to do it. I don't need a 100 pack or anything, but enough to do say... 3 or 4 bikes . Thanks in advance

>>937420
If you have a co op near you, buy a couple feet from them, they usually have a huge ass box of over 90 ft. My co op sells them for $1or $2 for 3 feet which works out to be cheaper than if you buy a small package.

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What are these? I just got my Canyon and they came with all the manuals and shit. Sorry for the horrid photo, my cellphone cam is dying.

>>937438
The yellow thing goes in the brake caliper, when you remove the wheel to prevent the pistons being pushed out if the brake lever is accidentally pulled. The black things on the bottom left go over the heads of the brake caliper bolts (the ones that bolt it to the frame and fork) to prevent them from coming loose (personally I've never used them, just do the bolts up tight and check them every now and then).

No idea on the two white parts, don't recognise the shape at all. I'm guessing they're something specific to your particular frame.

>>937442
>The yellow thing goes in the brake caliper, when you remove the wheel to prevent the pistons being pushed out if the brake lever is accidentally pulled.
It's actually to set the pistons at the right distance when bleeding. Sometimes called a bleed block. It won't even fit while the pads are in.
You take the pads out when bleeding for two reasons; one is to not soil them, and the other is to eliminate pad wear as a factor when filling the system by using a plastic block of optimum width instead. If you set the pistons against a worn pad you might overfill the system, and bad things happen when you install fresh pads.

>>937491
I've always thought they were for when transporting the bike (which you usually remove at least the front wheel for).

When bleeding brakes I've always just kept the pads in with the disc in between them, unless the pads were really worn it wouldn't cause an issue. Even when changing out to new pads everything's been fine as they automatically adjust to the different thickness, although you might need to push the pistons in a bit to fit the disc between them at first.

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>>937497
>I've always thought they were for when transporting the bike (which you usually remove at least the front wheel for).
Not that style of block, no. There are thinner "blocks" that look something like pic related for that.

If you overfill the system you won't be able to press the pistons a part, and you may even damage the brake by applying force while the reservoar is open to the supposed-to-be-closed-when-operated system.

>>937420
Jagwire has come recommended as the best bang for the buck here a few times in the past, but I cannot speak from personal experience. something to look into.

whats the nominal distance that should make one consider switching an old steel mtb for a road bike for commuting?

>>937536
firstly, if you're not aware of the /n/ rules for commuting on an MTB, I'll post them. to wit:

>put slick tires on the wheels, keep inflation at or nearer to max

>if you have a sus fork, and it can be locked out, do it. if no lockout, replacing the susser for a rigid fork that keeps the same geo will serve you better on the road.

I'd estimate such a set-up should be good for trips of ~an hour at a time.

>>937606
I've done about 6 hours on a ~36lb full susser (3 hours one way, 30 minute stop, 3 hours back). Long distance isn't really an issue on mountain bikes, sure it will be slower than a road bike on the road and so you'll cover less distance, but if you can do a certain amount of time on a road bike then you should be able to nearly match it on a mountain bike.

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Which one would you pick as a commuting spare? I have one like the bottom one (despite the no-name they're a good bang for the buck) but it's too fat on the ass so I end up slipping to the front. Would you consider the middle one for commuting?

Please excuse my noobness. My Budd has a generic dingle speed he got from bikes direct a while ago. The frame is a bit too small so we tried swapping over the parts and wheels sets to an old 12 speed Raleigh marathon frame. The chain line doesn't line up. He has a single speed wheel. Shouldn't it fit? Is it the rear freewheel or the crank? How fix?

>>937754
>dingle speed

fueled by his dingle berries?

Hello,

I am newbie trying to get a bike for school. I am tire of taking the bus.

I am 6'2 and my budget is $200. What are the best bikes to get. I will be carry a backpack and a GYM bag. Also shouldn't the mods set up a sticky in this board.

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>>937442
>>937491

Thanks dudes, that was nagging me for a while.
Also, I discovered at my lbs that the white things are lever locks, to prevent shifting and braking during transport. Explains why I didnt get the normal plastic shims you mention.

>>938173
Oh it's a road bike, that would explain why I've never seen them before. Fancy posting a full picture? I love road bikes with discs, I'll get one some day.

>>938174

With gusto. Its actually a cross bike that I plan to use as a road/gravel grinder/commuter. The geometry is almost identical to a normal road bike, only with a sturdier frame and wheels to handle curbs and potholes, discs, and it only weights 1kg more compared to a similar canyon road bike.

>>937754

My bet is in the crank. If you didn't change it it probably has an offset specific to the 12s it previously had.

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>>938260

Now with 100% more photo this time.

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Is there a list made by /n/ with the recommended bike brands to buy from ? When will mods make a sticky with this info ?

Hello, I am a faggot who needs to be spoonfed. I have a Giant Escape 2 that I've been using for almost a year. It's my first real bike. seems like a good bike to me (besides feeling overpriced) but is there anything I can buy to make it better? Like fancier tires or giving it lower handlebars. Or should I just leave it as is and save up for a proper road bike?

>>939067

While Giant is a solid brand, almost anything in the "hybrid" category of bikes is shit at this price range. Sadly, this includes your bike. Any real upgrade for this bike would end up costing half or more than half of what it was worth new, and at that point I would just get a good, used bike from craigslist. Try the /bbg/ general for a more informed opinion on what to get if you really want to replace it.

Hello /n/, I have a 29" hardtail but am stuck to riding on roads now because of an injury. What's your opinion in fitting it with cyclocross tires?