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/bbg/ - Bike buying General

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Thread replies: 329
Thread images: 42

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Should I buy the Nashbar CR5 Carbon Ultegra for $1,404 (22% off $1800) or a CAAD10 Aluminum 105 for $1,549?

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_582332_-1___

http://www.rei.com/product/892491/cannondale-caad10-105-5-womens-bike-2016

All the experienced cyclists said real cyclists ride aluminum and you're a stupid fred if you ride carbon.

Is it worth the extra $150, and the downgrade to 105 to upgrade from the carbon frame to the aluminum one? Or should I save $150 to put towards an upgrade wheelset and have the nicer Ultegra parts but suffer a carbon frame?
>>
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>>921976
>All the experienced cyclists said real cyclists ride aluminum and you're a stupid fred if you ride carbon.
>>
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>>921976

Nashbar sells cheap crap as a business model. Likely the wheels on that bike are shit. Seatpost, stem, wheels would need an upgrade to be a serious bike. But that price for Ultegra is something. Notice the brakes are FSA. They cut every corner to make that, then slapped Ultegra on it. It's cool, but keep all of that in mind.

Cannondale isn't the special company they once were, so don't get too excited about them. Their pre-outsourcing frames are amazing though

I like carbon but I don't race or compete or group ride. For me, I'd go aluminum just because my bikes all end up with dents and I don't want to have to replace a carbon frame.

If you ride in the suburbs or countryside and don't scratch or dent your frames, nashbar could be a cool bike

One more thought: There are quality levels to carbon frames. Just because it's carbon, doesn't mean it will be lighter than the CAAD.

I'm starting to lean CAAD now but ...


If I had to buy a $1,000 bike it would be this

http://www.chargebikes.com/plug-2/

> dick brakes
> fat tires
> rear rack option
> better looking

fuck a nice crankset I just wanna have fun
>>
>>921980
>nashbar sucks
>aksiums are better than rs-11s
>fsa parts are worse than the generic cdale branded shit
>ill neglect to mention the caad also has tektro brakes too
>buy a claris bike for $67 more than the nashbar 105 carbon bike

Guess how the LBS shill is detected.
>>
Can this thread be for parts too?

Got an old crosstrail for a commuter, could probably use a good overhaul. If you had $300 to spare to get this shit as brand new as you could, where would you start? Thinking new crankset, chain and cassette. Tires don't have too much wear on them so I could probably ride em out a bit longer.
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>>921991
Shit, forgot my pic
>>
>>921991
https://www.merlincycles.com/groupsets-81168/
>>
>>921993
Yooo. Das it mane. Thanks
>>
looking for
- shallow drop bars for MTB
- slick 26 tire suggestions
- suggestions for cheap brifters and other parts
- new wheelset
>>
also
- rigid fork
>>
Looking into getting a basic all-around bike for cruising around the immediate area. Pretty inexperienced and just want a good starterbike to mess around with until I know more fully what I want. An anon yesterday recommended this one, what do you guys think? Is it good for the price?

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/bik/5437443414.html
>>
>>922006
You could do better for 245.
>>
>>922002
origin 8 gary bars
>>
>>922007
That being said, what do you reckon a reasonable price for that bike? Price may be negotiable.

If you find any good bikes in the seattle craigslist, I'd be very grateful if you could lmk.
>>
>>921976
neither, get the trashbar carbon 105 and spend the extra $500 replacing all the stuff that isn't actually shimano 105, also buy a real saddle
>>921978
buttmad crabbon fred is still mad about some argument he had in 3 other threads. ride more, shitpost less.
>>
>>922006
>http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/bik/5437443414.html
If you're in the 5'10" - 6'2" range then I'd jump on that, seller looks to have done a good job making a few updates to that bike and getting it ready to ride.
>>
>>922006
>Suitable for someone approximately 5-4 to 6-0 or taller
>>
>>922013
>http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/bik/5437443414.html
>tf 5'9"

I guess I'll keep looking.

>captcha asks me to select images of bikes
>>
>All the experienced cyclists said real cyclists ride aluminum and you're a stupid fred if you ride carbon.

Your experienced cyclists may be morons.

First, both your options are entry level racing bikes, that's what you want, yes?

Second, also consider the level of mech support you need. REI isn't a bike store. Their mechanics are sometimes hit and miss but that's still more than Nashbar.

Third, the aluminum frame is not automatically better than the carbon one.

>Charge pug
Is a completely different kind of bike than the first two.

>>921991
I wouldn't try to refurb a commuter like that to new. Save for a new bike.

Replace only what's broken or worn on it. Add cargo and rain gear. chain and cassette tend to wear out the fastest.

If the front suspension is broken, probably replace it with a rigid fork.
>>
>>921980
>$1000 for a plug 2
god, why
>>
>>921976
>CAAD10 Aluminum 105 for $1,549?
This.
Unless you're going to road race or crit race it'll be more than enough bike for you.
>>
>>922067
But it costs more than the carbon ultegra bike.
>>
>>921976
>womens bike
Just buy a cheap fixie if you want to attract a guy. Less stuff to break and you can blame the lack of gears when he gets annoyed with you for being too slow
>>
>>922074
OP here. I'm a lesbian.
>>
>>922077
Well in that case I'm ok with this
>>
>>921983
>>922066

Again: FAT TIRES - REAR RACK - DICK BRAKES - ROOM FOR FENDERS

Neither the nashbar or cdale shitboxes have that

> muh ultegra

You fell for a marketing gimmick. You don't need ultegra. You need to have fun. In fact, anyone with ultegra looks like a tryhard. Especially on a nashbar bike.

105 is the best value, but Cannondale charing $1500 for the bike? You don't need that shit

The plug is better for 95% of riders. You don't need a racing bike. Claris is fine --- better than anything available 20 years ago (>muh square taper). 42c tires are awesome. The paint is better

Cannondale is bullshit now. If you buy the hype, fine. But they are a shadow of the amazing company they once were. Their MUSA frames were something magic
>>
>>922002

Salsa drops. Cowbell is awesome for a CX-ish bike. They have two models with wider flares.

26 tires: Race King (some small knobbies), Paselas, Nashbar streetwise for really cheap option that is light as hell

Brifters = tiagra is best value imho

Get a Rhyno Lite wheelset from ebay for fat fucking tires to sit on you know you want to (will bring the tire diameter up to acceptable, near 29er levels). The XL version is like 33mm inner diameter can can take 2.2" tires or more
>>
>>922083
>$1000
>for a PLUG 2
mother fucking why
>>
>>922083
But OP doesn't want a commuter bike. I'm sorry you're poor and you lock up your bike outside and your aspirational bike is a plug.
>>
>>922083
>Claris is fine --- better than anything available 20 years ago (>muh square taper).
7700 was in 1996, so no.
>>
>>922063
front suspension is actually perfectly fine. i thought briefly about just getting the newest model since i really like the crosstrail for what i use it for, but that's 549. not a lot, but what >>921993
put me on to, i could get a whole set of shit for about 132, most of which i could install myself, and save me around 400 bucks. this is the kit i was gunning for:

https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-alivio-m430-triple-v-brake-groupset-89438.html

It doesn't need to be anything special. I don't beat on it too much but most of the shit is just worn down.
>>
>>922083
> FAT TIRES - REAR RACK - DICK BRAKES - ROOM FOR FENDERS
> You fell for a marketing gimmick
It's like people who buy a LHT, CX bike, or a full custom rando because muh utility to commute 3 miles to classes and sip a well earned espresso at the local cyclist cafe hangout.
>>
>>922102

Everything I listed makes the Plug the perfect commuter bike.

I will murder ANYONE who does not love the Plug
>>
>>922119
Good job buying into the marketing. I bet if you bought a car you would buy a pick up or a SUV and only use it to drive to work.
>>
>>922120

THATS
IT

YOU
FUCKING
ROADIE
BITCH

COME FIGHT ME

TWINK ARMS
SHAVED LEG
CRABON FIBRE
PUSSY BIKE

ILL SMASH YOU TO PIECES

LIKE AN EXPLODED HED WHEEL
>>
I'd go CAAD10 but i'm a cannondale freak
>>
>>921980
>implying Cannondale isn't still king of the alu game and making better bikes for $2k than you get with carbon under $5k
>>
>>922127

Even after the outsourcing?

How does the quality compare?
>>
>>922129
There isn't as much attention to detail in terms of sanding welds and making the bikes pretty, but it doesn't really matter if a factory is in the USA or Taiwan if the design is on point. I'm sure the CAAD10 / 12 is a better frame than the ones prior to outsourcing. Not that their old stuff isn't great (I have a CAD3)
>>
>>922100
If the brakes and shifters are rusty, then get that grouppo replacement. Otherwise, you might just need a rear casette, chain, and cables.
>>
>>922163
Yeah there's not a kick off rust on it. Its lived indoors unless I rode it.

I mentioned what I was doing to my gf, she said "why don't I just buy you another bike? Then you can just sell the old one"

So I guess all in really gonna do now is get it tuned and trued up. I'm now immediately in the market for a new commuter. Fond of the specialized hybrids, budget is 550. What do?
>>
Looking for a used road bike and found this Trek 1000 in my area for $120.

https://offerupnow.com/item/detail/71684769/2001-trek-1000-alpha-series

I'm 5' 8-9" with 30" inseam.

Is this worth taking a look at?

Anything I should be wary of?
>>
>>922308
Price and size are good, definitely worth looking at. Saddle belongs on a cruiser but that's easily switched out. Aside from generally making sure all the moving parts work and that the bike is rideable, those particular shifters are particularly prone to having short lives - if you try the shifters and they don't work smoothly when you push them, know that the solution will be to replace them and that will cost you about $75.
>>
Trek 7.2 FX with disc brakes for $650?

Just gonna use it for cardio on some country roads (paved) and trips to the gym, which are less than a mile. Am I getting ripped off? Local shop
>>
>>922308

Killer deal as long as everything works as it should and nothing rattles/wobbles/creaks/whatever
>>
>>922319
I would pass on that. The current year non-disc brake 7.2 fx is USD$490 brand new. For the little bit of info that you gave us, disc brakes aren't worth it on that bike
>>
>>922328
What would you recommend? Just buy the same thing online or..? I've looked around my local Craigslist. Nothing that would be good for me
>>
>>922311
>>922327
Thanks!
>>
>>922093
7700 isn't that great. It looks really nice tho.
>>
>>922381
Good job being a retard to defend your idiotic Claris defense.

The closest current equivalent to 7700 is 3500. 7700 was made with better materials, better fit and finish, lighter and better in pretty much every way. The two things 3500 has on 770 are an updated hood shape, and optical gear indicators.

7700 was on par in quality to 7800, and the rest of the first generation 10-speed groups. The only gains were an additional cog, and hollowtech II cranks, which may be lighter and stiffer, but the bottom brackets have slightly more resistance. Shimano 9-speed also didn't suffer from self destructing left shifters. For some bizarre reason, 10-speed shifters broke when you tried to use a triple for a double, and they had to release double/triple specific versions.

7700 (and 7800) both had significantly better shift quality than 7900 (and 6700/5700) because of the external cables. The only advance for second generation 10-speed was under the bar tape cables, which is nice, but it came with degraded shifting performance because of the additional friction and keeping the same pull ratios. That and the proprietary hollow chainrings.

It's only when 9000 rolled around that 7700 was clearly and completely outclassed, because it was the only groupset to actually improve shifting by fixing the friction problem with a new actuation ratio, forgoing the triple completely, and introducing the new long arm FD. The brakes were also updated.

7700 will always have a reputation for feathery light shifting that even 9000 doesn't match though. But there was really no compelling reason to upgrade from 7700 if you were fine with 9-speeds, the weight, and the external cables.
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>tfw want to ride a bike but it'd be a 15 mile commute to town, 30 mile round trip, plus I only have $300
>>
>>922465
$300 should get you something serviceable on craigslist. Post your CL
>>
>>922469
You really think so?

Would a 30 mile round trip a few times a week be hard on someone who is new to riding? I'm not really fat, but I don't do cardio.

http://eastky.craigslist.org/
>>
>>922465
>>922471
Also need your height to recommend a bike.

And yes, that commute will probably wear on you the first couple weeks but you'll build up the strength for it fast.
>>
>>922472
5' 6" / 167 cm
140 lb / 64 kg
>>
>>922471
Of course it's going to be hard at first, but you have your noob gains, you'll get used to it. Just watch your nutrition, get adequate protein, and adequate sleep.

Just as an example, this bike is listed at $350, you might be able to talk him down to $300. Obviously, it has to fit. You haven't posted your measurements.

http://lexington.craigslist.org/bik/5404587245.html
>>
>>922475
lmao kill yourself
>>
>>922475
Yeah forget about that cannondale. This could work

http://lexington.craigslist.org/bik/5404587245.html
>>
>>922475
http://eastky.craigslist.org/bik/5371722703.html
>>
>>922484
>montgomery ward bike
Morbid curiosity piqued, but I don't think that's a good idea for a novice
>>
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guys,
I have a 105 wheelset lying around and would like to build them up as a commuter bike, preferably 1x9 or 1x10.
I'm looking or a frame set around 150 - 200 €
steel would be cool.
I'd get the kaffenback 2 but it's made for disc brakes and the wheelset isn't.

any recommendations ?
>>
>>922471
depends on the terrain of those 30 miles and whether you have to do it all at once

on flat ground with no lights, it's easy
>>
What's a decent option for a Canadian with around $1,000 to spend on a bike. I live near Toronto, if that helps anyone. Looking for a road bike. I commute to work which is a 14km round trip every day using roads and paved trails.
>>
>>922622
ebay search: "reynolds 531"

find something in your size. post for rec's
>>
>literally just learned to ride a bike today
>will mainly use it to ride to uni, so across city
>will also be riding in countryside, nothing extreme, just fields/paths

What type of bike should I be looking to get? I think a hybrid would be best, but I'm not sure considering I literally knew nothing about bikes this morning. Also, how much should I be looking to pay? M/6'/21 if it helps.
>>
>>922726
For a beginner hybrid, prolly about 500 or so for something low maintenance if you're buying new. Specialized and trek have decnr hybrids. I'd go specialized, either sirrus or crosstrail.
>>
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>>922726
hybrids r gay
>>
I'm looking for help finding a bike.
>Height and inseam
6'1", 32"
>Budget
$300
>Local Craigslist (or your country's equivalent)
ventura.craigslist.org
>Intended use (commuting, racing, touring, etc.)
Commuting (I guess), I live/work on a ship and am looking for a bike to explore outside the ports I visit
>Terrain type (flatland, mountains, offroad, shitty pavement, etc.)
Various
>Any other info you'd consider pertinent
Materials resistant to corrosion would be good as the bike will be in a salt air/sea spray environment 100% of the time. Alternatively something easy to clean/maintain for the same reason.
>>
Ive been thinking about buying this bike
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/turinopro-discbrake-roadbike.htm
Has anybody here ever ordered from this website? Are the bikes any good? The components of this bike seem pretty nice. Would /n/ buy this bike?
>>
>>922919
The Cavalo Gara comes with a 105 crank, Mavic wheels, what is essentially a lifetime warranty with the "forever guarantee" and 20-25% off coupons are quite frequent bringing the price down to around $800.
>>
so posted in the wrong thread, might as well ask in the right one.

Any good bikes for under $800 in the Toronto area.

Just riding on road/pavement with some light trails.
>>
>>922726
Probably a rigid or hardtail mountain bike. If you go hybrid, get the one most like a rigid mountain bike and not shit with cheap crappy suspension and wheels.
>>
Looking for a good beginner bike for crusing around the neighborhood, and going on local paved trails. Anons recommended a decent touring bike with dropbars.

Anything good in the Seattle area craigslist? Looking to pay $600 or less, but will go higher if I find a good deal.
>>
>>922927
Wow thank you. Seems like a much better buy. May have to get that one
>>
Down to two bikes: giant defy 1 disc vs gt grade alloy 105. Both Aluminum frame carbon fork. Both 105. Better brakes on the gt. Have test ridden and liked both. Giant is from an lbs which is full of super nice helpful people. Gt is from performance which gives me basically an extra $300 (bike is 200 cheaper plus another 130 in performance credit-probably spent on pedals and shoes). Any thoughts/advice? I'm a long time short distance bike commuter looking to stretch out the miles either before or after work and on weekends.
>>
>>922972
GT grade looks 10 times better, especially in the silver of the 105 model.

The Omega is a shitty crank, it's heavy and it uses a proprietary 19mm axle with a special bottom bracket not used for any other crank. However, Hy/Rds are better brakes than Spyres, although Spyres are still pretty good, better than BB7s.

Decide if a relationship with your LBS is worth anything to you. Don't buy from them just because they're nice.
>>
>>922972
Also, you might want to look at the Cavalo Gara I pointed out to another anon and wait for a 20% off sale, which happens fairly frequently. Nashbar is the same company as Performance (they like to pretend to be different, but it's the same exact employees answering the phone and answering emails) and Cavalo is the house brand. On sale, it's $800 for a disc road brake. The Fuji Sportif is another similar bike for $800 for the 2015 model at Performance, so 10% off there.
>>
>>922981
>>Decide if a relationship with your LBS is worth anything to you. Don't buy from them just because they're nice.

If it's a good relationship then it's highly likely he'll get discounted or free servicing, and discounts on clothes and accessories they stock too.

Of course, it's probably cheaper to buy a lot of the latter online anyway.
>>
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>>922983
>If it's a good relationship then it's highly likely he'll get discounted or free servicing
You get lifetime free adjustments at pbike, and if you're the type to go to the LBS for service, you can buy a discounted service plan when you buy the bike.

> discounts on clothes and accessories they stock too.
LBS feel entitled to making sales and having customers. Pic related.

>Of course, it's probably cheaper to buy a lot of the latter online anyway.
Exactly, even discounted, it's still cheaper online.
>>
>>922969
Also check out the Fuji Sportif 1.1D 2015 at Performance. If you join the club for $30, you get 10% in reward money, so basically $50 worth of accessories. So ~$750 for that.
>>
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>>922991
>>LBS feel entitled to making sales and having customers. Pic related.

Pic clearly shows the customer being entitled, is that the joke??
>>
buy a chinarello and a better groupset- the deng fu frames are awesome
>>
$3000 full suspension mountain bike?
>>
>>922169
Bumping for some recommendations for this. budget has been increased to 600. Not sure what to look into.
>>
looking for a good commuter bike, something with tires suitable for riding on the shoulder so gravel, glass, potholes.

>5'6"
>in the north bay area

looking to spend around $500, worth going to my local shops?
>>
>>923201
If you want a basic hybrid commuter, just stick with what you've got.
>>
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Hey guys, I'm getting a dedicated touring bike, & I'm really sold on the Surly LHT 700c.

I'll be using this to go across the Pacific Crest Bike Trail from canada to mexico. Then later from LA to New York if I feel it's a good fit.

I'm wondering though if I should buy it with stock options, or are there a bunch of things I should probably build up myself?

On touring I could only think of maybe opting out for an internal gear drive hub, or larger gearing for climbing if I need to change out the stock ones, but I think that'd be overkill for a USA tour.
>>
>>923326
>LHT 700c
You might as well just buy a Jamis Aurora or something. 26" is the major reason to buy a LHT over other touring bikes.
>>
>>923327
>Jamis Aurora
honestly If I were to get a 26" for something like a world tour into south america & other 3rd world nations, I'd get a koga miyata. It looks so bullet proof.

One of the big reasons for a surly for me is that it's a longer wheelbase & lower bb for dat dere stability. Also, as I live in Los Angeles I can go look at one if I fancy as a store is somewhat close to me.

the aurora looks great, + the bar end shifters are nice on a really long tour. I don't like the fact that it uses hydraulics cause repair could be a bitch.

Price wise, the aurora is better though by $300.
>>
>>923326
Personally I like to keep things as stock as possible, with easily replaceable, fairly priced, hardy parts. People aren't lying when they say you can tour on anything. Just switch the saddle to your preferred choice, get your wheels trued and buy a decent set of tools
>>
>>923329
I feel you on that, I'm just imagining, that instead of opting out for a certain drivetrain option, my stock one will fail after 500 miles, while the other train could have kept on going.

Then again if I got the tools, I doubt I couldn't fix it myself.
>>
>>923330
Yeah I don't know what your skillz are like, but if you take the entire bike apart and put it back together yourself, or build one from scratch with your choice of parts, you will realise it's basically Lego that a monkey could fix. There'll be 10 speed derailleurs and square taper BBs in every north american town, and unless you crash or set then up wing they won't fail anyway.
>>
>>923326
The stock granny gear if you buy a built up bike is 26/36, so you could probably ride up a wall with it.

Doesn't murrica have some pretty fearsome mountains, in any case?
>>
http://www.citygrounds.com/fuji/fuji-track-le-fixie-bike-2015-4625/color/BLACK

Need a basic commuter/track bike. What are other alternatives, and is this a good buy?
>>
>>923337
Go for it, that's a fair deal.
>>
>>923331
>Yeah I don't know what your skillz are like,
I used to work on bmx's, it's just gears & adjustments I've never had to work on it.

>>923336
>Doesn't murrica have some pretty fearsome mountains

Yeah they do actually now that I think of it. As long as I don't cross the sierras going east, the PCT is a tad more flat compared to the sierras.

My pick originally was the Surly Long Haul Trucker, Trek 520 , & Fuji Bicycles Touring.

I'm pretty sure at this point I'm getting the LHT disk. Disks should be okay on a fairly civilized trip.
Panniers are my next choice & I'm wondering if I should really throw money at the ortliebs, or find something cheaper.
>>
>>923328
Surly is for fat Americans, Kogas are Euro, aren't they, just like Thorn is mostly UK.

>One of the big reasons for a surly for me is that it's a longer wheelbase & lower bb for dat dere stability.
I don't keep track of all the touring bikes in my head, but I'm sure there are some that have 80mm drops and long wheelbases come standard on touring bikes.

> I don't like the fact that it uses hydraulics cause repair could be a bitch.
If you're talking about the disc version, Hy/Rds are cable actuated. They only use hydraulics to actuate the pistons. All the hydraulics are self contained in the caliper.
>>
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>>923417
there really isn't a big reason to get a surly or not either.

I guess it boils down to the $$$ if I save a lot on 1 model or not.
>>
>>923337
>le fixie
>delivers that steel is real feel the steel
Who are they marketing this to exactly?
>>
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>>923451
are there any budget alternatives to a koga like this for a murican?
>>
>>923464
Everytime i see koga i can only think of this. https://youtu.be/RFT4eKeZUeE
>>
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>>923464
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/city_bikes.htm


http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/city_bikes.htm
>>
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>>923464

Oops sorry I read that wrong

Novara Safari is a good bet. 20% with REI membership (you get the refund at the end of the year unless you buy during their 20% one item sale)

http://www.rei.com/product/874998/novara-safari-bike-2016
>>
>>923464
>MMXV+I
>rod brakes
>>
Yo guys I know almost nothing about bikes so please dont ge offended by my opinions. I need help in buying a bike. I need

>cheap as possible
>has front suspension
>mainly for a commuter, but I want to ride anywhere, including trails
>I dont like slim tires
>can handle bad weather
>has acceptable brakes
>wont fall apart if I want to jump off something

Is this too pretentious? Is there a noob answer like the /o/ "get a civic".
>>
>>923546
>Is there a noob answer like the /o/ "get a civic".

Not really.

Sounds like you want a hardtail XC mtb with rack mounts on the back. I don't know what you'd get but could probably (?) get something new for under a grand.
>>
>>923547
Also get something with disc brakes.
>>
>>923547
Thanks, I checked those and they look perfect. A grand is too much though, Id be buying second hand for sure.
>>
>>923546
No front suspension unless you go off road. Suspension is for keeping traction on rough surfaces. Not comfort, not potholes.
>>
>>923550
He mentioned trails, which could mean a lot of things. But my experience is cx bikes are pretty unenjoyable when things get actually rough.
>>
Can anyone recommend a bike shop in the Netherlands? Something that I can look up uonline preferrably.
>>
Would a Giant Roam 3 be a shit bike on a sub-$600 budget?

I don't ride roads, only dirt/gravel walking paths and boardwalks. Thinking of buying this spring.

LBS pretty much only has Trek/Giant/Opus.
>>
>>923560
>Giant Roam 3

If you're looking for something with a little more swag check out this fairdale for $500. Also in Teal

http://fairdalebikes.com/bikes/2016-lookfar/
>>
http://road.cc/content/news/178605-wiggle-and-chain-reaction-cycles-confirm-merger
What are jews planning this time?
>>
>>923625
That is a pretty sweg ride but no resellers near me. Have to stick to big names.
>>
>>923625
>http://fairdalebikes.com/bikes/2016-lookfar/

never heard of fairdale but they sound great.
the lookfar sound great too.
the weekender sounds increadible but probably out of budget.
>>
How is the bike buying experience at REI?
>>
>>923637
>>923636

I'm seeing them on eBay for $500 + free shipping

You could one, take to local shop to get built up (unless you want to DIY) -- done deal

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321986681077
>>
Looking to buy something for intercollegiate racing, what does /n/ think about Fuji? I'm looking at Giant TCR or Propel series but I saw some pretty good deals on Fuji Transonics at Performance Bike.
>>
>>923770
Unless somebody can recommend other good ones around the mid-1000 to low 2000 range that I can buy in the United States (I'm looking at you Canyon)
>>
>>923770
Transonic is a pretty good deal for an aero road bike with a warranty, the issue is the cheap ones don't have aero wheels, and aero wheels make a bigger difference than an aero frame. Actually, even aero handlebars make a bigger difference than a frame.
>>
Sorry for being a noob but what are some brands to avoid and what are some good ones. For Europe if that matters. From lurking a bit I cant tell if people like Trek for example.
>>
>>923810
If it's a brand at a proper bike shop, it's probably decent. If it's at a department store, it's probably a bit rubbish.
>>
>>923811
Yeah that makes sense , but Im looking to buy second hand without any knowledge which sucks.
>>
>>923795
Thanks, I'm gonna be doing mostly crits and money is a bit of an issue. I'm seeing a few planet x full carbon/carbon with aluminum brake track wheelsets for under $1000, do they seem alright or should I just look at aluminum wheelsets?
>>
>>923812
Google the brand plus "pro cycling". If it's a brand used by pros, even if a lower end model, you're probably ok.

That's not to say there aren't any other good brands, just that that's how you get a safe bet.
>>
>looking for
cyclocross
>budget
(under 1300 EUR, is that possible?)
>Intended use (commuting, racing, touring, etc.)
mostly getting around town, 2-4km rides
option for day trip including gravel and other light terrain
maybe 18km commute in months (or a year?)
>terrain type (flatland, mountains, offroad, shitty pavement, etc.)
95% pavement, not flat (mountainous? not sure what's the right word here)
>any other info you'd consider pertinent
I used to ride MTB with dirt tyres but only on roads. It will be my first own bike and I want try something with a drop bar and road focus. This lead me to road bikes but I don't like being stuck to the road since I will use it for everything.
>location
Germany, NRW

There are two local shops, one of which has a few cyclocrossers on display, iirc I saw the Focus Mares AX around 1400.
Does cyclocross make sense? (Also in that price range?)
Is it correct that Shimano Tiagra is good value for entry?
Any opinions/guidelines on mech disc brakes? (Seems to me maintenance would be easier.)
Some brands to look out for? (Remembering Bulls, Giant, Rose, Scott, Specialized, Focus, not sure about Fuji, Felt since they are the cheapest)
>>
>>924019
Yes you can get a nice cyclocross for that money. Focus Mares is pretty popular for non-competitive CX riders and commuters, not a bad choice at all. Personally I would try to find a Kona Rove (not Big or Al) for that price, it's a very nice "one bike to do it all" solution.

For more road oriented riding, with some light gravel I'm liking my GT Grade.
>>
>>924019
btw, I believe there are lots of different models of Mares AX, is this the one you are looking at?
http://www.bike24.de/p1133837.html

Also here is a bike I would really have enjoyed, but it was a bit over my budget and might not be the right size for you
http://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;product=107188;menu=1000,173,157
>>
>>924020
I'll look more into both bikes you mentioned. They both look good on first glance. And thanks for the info.

>>924023
On display was some blue version, not the commuter.
About the commuter though: Is there a particular reason why it is a lot cheaper than the regular version?
http://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;product=133890;menu=1000,173,157;page=22
I see the fork and headset are different but with the commuter additions I would have thought it would be more expensive.

>Bianchi VOLPE DISC Tiagra Gravel Grinder Rennrad 2015
Great price and bike looks good but size is indeed too small.
>>
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>>924019

This company is based in Germany. this is their cheapest gravel/all-road bike. 1,400 EU

https://www.canyon.com/en/road/inflite/2016/inflite-al-8-0-s.html
>>
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i like bikes
>>
>>924019

boardman cx bikes have rack mounts if thats what you're after
>>
>>924033
I was surprised to see the commuter being cheaper than the "normal" model too. I think it adds great value and ease if you are going to fit fenders and lights anyway.
>>924048
Looks like a good option too
>>
>>924078
>>924048
I don't think any canyon bikes have eyelets for racks
>>
>>924050
what are you doing here, bike liker
>>
>>924080
You can still make it work with p-clamps and adapters and shit, although it won't be as clean as it would be on a frame with all the proper eyelets. Something like a Tubus Fly with their seat stay clamp, and p-clamps on the dropouts. Should hold about 20kg.
>>
>>924094
If you're going to throw together a frankenstein "it hurts to live" mashup of random bike and bike parts that kind of fit together (mostly), there is no reason to spend 2000 jewbucks

Just buy an OTS and fuck around with that instead
>>
>>923810
>From lurking a bit I cant tell if people like Trek for example.
They're so big and diverse that I don't think that it's possible to hate or like the whole brand. They make some fantastic bikes, but they also make some mediocre stuff. They tend to be more expensive than other brands, and are stingy with stuff like offering the most aggressive geometry on anything but their highest-spec racing bikes. Even then, it's sometimes missing. You can't get a H1 fit Domane with dick breaks, ferinstance.

>>924096
I agree, just sayin' that there's options out there for people deadset on a bike whose manufacturer was a jerk about offering rack and fender eyelets on bikes that really should have them.

With an OTS it's kinda easy to make it into a purdy baby that people think is worth 5x-10x what you paid for it. Only thing is that you need to be able to put down the wattz when some crackhead tries to chase you down to steal it from you. Maybe I should just invest in a tec-9 or some shit.
>>
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what do new expensive bikes do that my old Bridgestone CB/3 mountain bike doesn't?
>>
>>924122
>CB
>mountain bike
The 'C' is for city, btw.

To answer your question though - suspension, disc brakes, and improvements in geometry and design. Mountain bikes have come a long way in the past 20 years.
>>
>>924124
oh, that's interesting to know.

I ride my CB/3 all the time. I'm going to finally buy new tires for it tomorrow. It came with thick treaded mountain bike tires when I got it and I really want to swap them out for street slicks.
>>
>>924019
>Any opinions/guidelines on mech disc brakes? (Seems to me maintenance would be easier.)

Mechs are fine, I can't compare them to hydros but they shit all over the rim brakes on my other bike.

>>924080
Canyon's ``Commuter" bikes are so offensive.

>no rack mounts
>special snowflake mudguard you can't even buy separately (they don't come with the lower tier model)
>ugliest stem configuration in the wuuuurld
>absurdly priced for all alu utility bike
>>
>>924171
Why are you trolling about Canyons with blatantly false things?
>>
>>924172
If you're willing to educate me which part(s) are incorrect, I'll listen.

Don't get me wrong I have nothing against the brand, their road bikes are beautiful.
>>
>>924173
>no rack mounts
False
>special snowflake mudguard
False
>they don't come with the lower tier model
False
>ugliest stem configuration in the wuuuurld
>absurdly priced for all alu utility bike
No one is forcing you to buy the top of the line one
>>
>>924174
>>>no rack mounts
>False

Nothing I can find suggests this. No pictures of the bike with a rack, no mention of eyelets or racks on the bike description page, and they're certainly not visible on the images.

There is a picture of what seems to be a concept (?) with eyelets and mention of a system that mounts panniers to the fenders, but that seems to have been scrapped.

>special snowflake mudguard
>False

"Herkelmann Wingee Aluminium" which mounts to bosses on the inside of the frame. I mean, that's probably not a huge hurdle but it doesn't have a bridge between the seatstays, so mounting standard full fenders would be iffy.

The only thing I can find about wingee is that the brand was acquired by tubus and a bunch of german links.

>they don't come with the lower tier model
False

https://www.canyon.com/en-au/urban/urban/2016/urban-7-0.html

???

One thing I did get wrong (all alu). The forks are carbon on both.

Even the entry level bike is AU$2600. The top of the line Scott which serves a similar purpose (admittedly not quite as high spec) can be had for AU$1800 retail, sale price $1400.

https://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/urban-bikes/scott/qld/fortitude-valley/sub-speed-10/102746968
>>
>>924175
>urban
Maybe you should click the actual commuter line instead of the urban line before shooting your mouth off like a retard. Roadlites also have rack mounts.
>>
>>924176

There we go. There is no urban or commuter "line" on the Australian website. They're only offering the top level from each. So from where I'm looking the urban and commuter basically are part of a series. They use the same frame and mostly the same components in any case.

Roadlite isn't offered here either.
>>
>>924177
>aussie
>trolling and shitposting
Figures.
>>
>>924178
Call it whatever you like, that doesn't make the urban/commuter any less garbage.
>>
I wrote up some specs so that I can eliminate bikes and find what's best suited for me.

As a beginner I can distinguish between price and group (105 etc), somewhat between brakes (decent mech is all I want) and later fenders (when the selection is smaller). (goal to stay under 1300, rest for comparison)

Here's what I got now (prices in EUR, without hunting for best price):
(code tags pls)
[code]
1100, cube cross race, 105, shimano br-r317
1100, focus mares ax commuter, tiagra, shimano r517
1115, gt grade al, tiagra, trp spyre
1200, scott speedster cx 20, tiagra, shimano br-r317
1200, stevens namur, 105, oxygen scorpo mini v-brakes
1290, rose pro dx cross-2000, 105, bb7
1300, cube cross race pro, 105, shimano st-rs505
1300, giant tcx slr 2, 105, trp spyre
1300, stevens gravere disc, 105, trp spyre-f
1312, gt grade al , 105, trp hyrd
1400, canyon inflite al 8.0, 105, shimano br-cx77
1400, canyon inflite al 8.0 s, 105, shimano br-cx77
1400, focus mares ax cyclocross, tiagra, shimano r517
1400, specialized crux e5, sora, trp spyre
1500, bulls grinder 1, 105, shimano br-rs505
1600, scott speedster cx 10, 105+, shimano br-rs505
1600, bergamont prime cx, 105, shimano br-rs785
1700, cube cross race sl, ultegra, shimano br-rs785
1700, bulls daily grinder, 105, shimano br-rs505
1700, bergamont prime cx rd, 105, hayes cx pro
1900, specialized crux sport e5, 105, trp hyrd
[/code]
Any recommendations what else I should look into to compare cyclocrossers?
>>
>>924255
thanks code tags. look here for simple formatting:
http://pastebin.com/mnQzzrBH
>>
>>924256
The Focus Commuter seems to tick all your boxes, and comes under the target price so you have room for accessories or clothes.
>>
>>924255
Charge Plug 4 and 5
>>
>>924183
>shitposts about why its shit
>none of them are true
>hurr durr well that dont change nothing
Typical Aushit behavior
>>
>>924259
Pretty much this, if the more expensive bikes don't have anything you need/want then why bother. You can use the saved euros to upgrade the bike with more appropriate tires, gearing or whatever you might need.

>>924255
Did you not find any Kona dealers or did you disqualify them for some other reason?

There are a few on the list that might be better than the Mares commuter if you were into actually racing cyclocross, but not sure if you would benefit from them in other use.

GT Grade Tiagra seems tempting too with the Spyres and competitive pricing. From what I've heard spyres are the best mechanical brakes around. It might also be a bit better for faster road riding, even entry level road racing than the pure cyclocross bikes. Some say the frame is a bit more comfy and flexy going over the rough stuff than either cyclocross or road race bikes, but who knows.

disclaimer: I'm biased as fuck because I got a GT Grade this winter myself. I was bouncing around the same kind of cyclocross/gravelbike/endurance road stuff too, but with a smaller budget. My personal final 3 was Kona Rove Al, Fuji Tread and the GT Grade Al.
>>
>>924259
>>924282
The Mares Commuter looks almost too good. It's a bit suspicious but when there are no particular drawbacks it might be the best fit. (todo: check reviews of mares commuter)
It will be an all-purpose bike but I thought about getting a non-commute version (stretch the budget and add commute accessories later/over time). The price and value have to be somewhere in the gear (or not, when it is in the commuter parts i guess).

>>924282
On the usual sites I didn't find Kona and dismissed the Kona Rove AL ("not Big or Al").
Now I notice I have mistaken the Kona Rove ST (dark mint) with Big and thought the recommended bikes aren't available here. A bit pricey for 1500, I'll add it for comparison.
( http://www.bruegelmann.de/kona-rove-st-dark-mint-465076.html )
That was the first time I saw GT and price looks interesting. Spyre, BB7 and BR-CX77 are amongst the brakes I read positive things about. Not sure if I would go lower (whatever that means).

>>924264
Added 3 and 4, will search for some reviews to get an overview of them. 5 isn't available here and might be too expensive.


In general, are there no brands to avoid? Are all of these manufacturers good?
Haven't seen many bikes with SRAM. Is Shim/SRAM just preference? (cant dinstinguish sram groups yet, though)

Big thanks, still too much to chose but you helped me a lot already.
>>
>>924302
I think SRAM is more popular with more expensive bikes. The Rove has SRAM and it's over your budget which kind of reinforces my thoughts.

I believe Spyre is the only mechanical dick breaker that pulls on both sides, the rest just use one "piston". I've only had the cheaper ones and they do the job too.

I haven't heard much about some of those brands, but Kona, GT, Focus, Canyon, Cube, Giant and Specialized all sound pretty top tier to me.
If you look deeper into the bicycle brands, you'll find many of these are owned by the same parent company (think VW, Audi, Skoda etc.) so a lot of it is just marketing and such. Even further most of them have their (alu) frames made in taiwan anyway, components come from Shimano and FSA, etc.
Does it matter much who put the components together?
>>
>>924306
No, the HYRD does both sides too.
>>
>>924309
>Spyre is the only mechanical dick
From what I read that's true (for mech). Hydraulics (is it mech-hydr-hybrid?) might be easier to find with pistons pulling from both sides.
>>
>>924312
If you're going to get nitpicky, there is no other brake exactly like the hy/rd. But the hy/rd is generally lumped in with mechanicals because it's compatible with the same equipment that all other mechanical disc brakes are compatible with. Hence why, if you ask "is there any other mech disc brake that pulls from both sides", the answer is that the spyre and the hy/rd do this, because the assumption is that you're asking about equipment compatibility and price class, both of which criteria are satisfied by the hy/rd.
>>
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Someone know anything about this bike?

https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/bik/5447585916.html

https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/bik/5449017971.html

This one also looks nice. I'm 6'2" with most of it in my legs so they're both like a half inch small, by I can't be too picky
>>
Got into road biking last year as an effort to lose weight and get in shape. So far I've had steady but slow progress on my cheap ass entry level scott. This winter I bought a cyclocross to be able to exercise during the winter/spring. The cyclocross got Sora 105 and they shift godly compared with my cheap ass scott.

So after buying this cyclocross I'm all of a sudden in the market for an aluminum frame road racer with electric shifters. I've been looking at Di2 and SRAM red wireless shifters.

Anyone got experience with electrical shifters and want to give some advice on them?
>>
>>924309
Well, yeah, I don't think of them as being mechanical.
>>924316
Well nitpicky indeed, but I'd classify them as hydraulic because the piston is operated by the hydraulic pressure not the cable tension.

But anyway, my point was that MOST mechanical discs only use one "piston". Classification of the HY/RD is irrelevant.
>>
>>924323
>sora 105

U wot m8?
>>
>>924336
I didn't proof before posting. Have sora on cheapass bike. 105 on good bike. Want to upgrade to electrical on next bike.
>>
>>924338
Have you test ridden a di2 or Etap bike yet? That would seem to be the right next step.
>>
>>924341
Not yet. Just played with a Di2 shifting at my LBS. They seem amazing just playing around in the store. Was thinking if wireless had better perks than wired system. And the etap seems like the better solution from a pure paper perspective with how easy batteries etc are to remove and charge.
>>
>>924342
Etap sure does look cool, keep in mind that these systems are extremely expensive.

Looking at the groupsets on wiggle Ultegra Di2 is about double the price of standard ultegra, and very similar in price to mechanical Dura-ace.
>>
Considering getting a new bike/frame.
Should I get a Trek Domane 2 frame or get a Giant Defy 1?
>>
>>924351
it's gonna come down to the frame, since giant tends to sell a better groupset at a given price point than trek.
>>
>>924356
I have a bike with Shimano 105 parts already. Right now I'm debating to get the Trek Domane 2 frame or the Giant Defy 1 with everything included for about $150 more.
>>
>>924358
disc defy or standard defy?
>>
>>924359
Standard Defy. Discs are not necessary nor legal in most races anyway.
>>
>>924360
They're UCI legal now, and I recall reading somewhere that the US racing organisation never actually banned them in the first place.

Necessity, sure.
>>
>>924358
Domane will be more "vertically-compliant" in seat tube (as reviewers would say) and will come with tubeless-ready rims as stock, but the Giants come with a slightly better price/drivetrain spec ratio.
/my opinion

>>924360
>nor legal in most races anyway
Where are you talking about? In the USA, as long as the race isn't UCI--which nearly all aren't--or a National Championship, discs are fine if you wanted to race.
>>
if i weigh 200 lbs do i have any business being on a 15lb~ bike
i want one but dont know if should have one
>>
>>924380
You might need to pump your tyres up a bit more, but that shouldn't be heavy enough to be a problem. Most rider limits on custom wheels are around that IIRC.
>>
>>924381
Don't forget, sometimes your clothes can weigh 10lbs
>>
>>924318
Bumping this one? Also from OKC looking for a bike
>>
>>924323

I have di2 ultegra on my road, I rate it. But really if you didn't have it you're not going to miss it.
>>
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http://on.fb.me/1OfD7ho

>This a beautiful bike and a great deal on a custom built 2015 Cannondale EVO Hi-Mod.

>Bike in excellent condition and was ridden lightly with approximately 3,000 miles.

>Frame – Cannondale SuperSix EVO HI-MOD with Speed Save Technology
>Fork – Cannondale SuperSix EVO HI-MOD with Speed Save Technology
>Handlebar – FSA Wing Pro Aluminum
>Stem – FSA Energy Auminum with Ti bolts
>Shifters – Shimano Ultegra 11 speed
>Front Derailleur – Shimano Ultegra Braze On
>Rear Derailleur – Shimano Ultegra 11 speed
>Brakes – TRP R979 EQ
>Cassette – Shimano Ultegra 11 speed
>Chain – KMC X11L Silver 11 speed
>Seat – Fi’zi:k Arione R1 Braided
>Crankset – FSA 386EVO Energy Hollow >Forged Aluminum BB30
>Wheels – ROL D’Huez Clinchers
>Tires – Continental GP 4000s Clinchers
>Graphics – Complex Ink
>Bar Tape – Fi’zi:K Superlight Tacky Touch
>Bottle Cage – Elite Cannibal
>Weight – 15.5 lbs (size 54)
>* Pedals and Garmin mount not included.

I am prepared to buy this on Friday. What should I look out for? Ask about? Is it even worth it?
>>
>>924633
You should bring a scale, because I see people BS the weights all the time.
>>
>selling some shit on CL
>guy emails at 1am and wants a same day appointment
>no phone number or anything
>email before going to bed
>check all day
>no response
>guy doesnt reply until the next day again wanting a same day appointment
>tell him him to arrange of it at least a day in advance
>set up time give him number so he can text
>appointed time
>no text
>no email
>no nothing

Why
>>
>>924640
The weight looks legit if the parts list is legit
>>
>>924633
$2200 btw
>>
>>924662
I'm not so sure. Those are light versions of FSA parts, but they're still not light, due to being aluminum and FSA.
>>
What is the equivalent to the Mamachari in Europe/America?
>>
>>924674
dutch/utility/city bike
>>
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>>921976 Hey guys, it's my first time posting here. So, I am completely unaware for what reasons a bike is deemed good since I am a beginner and I would like your opinion. I found

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cube-peloton-triple-road-bike-2015/rp-prod127980?gs=1&gclid=CjwKEAiA0ZC2BRDpo_Pym8m-4n4SJAB5Bn4xfRTk1gzit6jf8Xwg48piEssY35uvMAMec1FDn-wAmhoCcqbw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks in advance!
>>
>>924698
It's a perfectly cromulent entry level roadie, especially good value with that discount.

Just keep in mind they only have 2 sizes left, how tall are you?
>>
>>924699
Thanks for replying.
I am 1,80cm. What size should I go for?
>>
>>924700
The bigger one for sure, I think you "should" be on a even bigger bike, but it might be just fine.

It's not always just height=frame size, some people have longer legs or longer arms or shorter torso. In my opinion, the top tube is the most important measurement as it defines how far the handlebars are from the saddle.

Personally, I'd rather ride a size too small than a size too large.
>>
>>924701

Plus he can always embiggen the seatpost and stem
>>
>>924701
cheers mate!
>>
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Looking at this "Leopard" bike for $100 USD. I want it for warm weather commuting. Good deal?
>>
I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these:
www.batribike.com/folding-electric-bikes/dash/dash11

Any alternatives or reasons not to buy it? I've found a place that stocks a 2015 model so you get a fully functional throttle.
>>
>>924796

Also, does anyone know anything about this manufacturer? I can't seem to get any info from the Google.
>>
Any advice for a 5'9" brit with £150 to spare and a 1.5 mile scenic riverside bike path leading directly from his new flat to his workplace?
>>
>>924802
Buy some sort of bicycle. Preferably one with two wheels, a saddle and pedals. A bell would be nice too.
>>
>>924803
Seems like sound advice. Any more specific pointers? Is anything bearable within my budget?

I haven't been on a bicycle since my early teens. I've had an accident which broke some of my shoulder bones and I had to wear a cast covering most of my torso. My bike was even more damaged than me and I never got another.
>>
>>924807
You'd probably do better buying used from a reputable source or, failing that, an end of line bike. There's not going to be much that's decent available for your budget. Start by going to your local bike shop.
>>
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>>924796
>>924799
Current owner made a thread on BF asking about that bike a few months ago, didn't get any answers, but at least there are better pictures:
>http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1042622-swiss-made-10-speed-id-leopard.html

It's an interesting bike - the frame has some nice details and any early 70's bike that came with with alloy rims was decent, the only thing less-than-desirable are the cottered cranks. At $100 I would buy it as long as the headset was in good condition (because I bet it's French), and I would keep my fingers crossed that the bottom bracket isn't Swiss-threaded. Put some nicer Nervar or Stronglight cranks on there and it would be downright sexy, et (presque) tout français.
>>
>>924802
at that price, avoid any kind of suspension. see that gears and brakes actually work. look for mudguards or at least room for them if you want to ride in wet weather. maybe avoid aggressive knobbly tires for a smoother ride.

I don't think you will have much further choice in that budget.
>>
>>924796
never heard of Leopard. My feeling is that even if it's not a very good bike, it's still an excellent value at $100 US. particularly with those full fenders and the rack. it's likely worth the $100, the only question is would you be better served putting that $100 into a higher-quality used bike, assuming one is available/your market is robust enough for you to wait-and-see. firstly, it looks to be sized for an average-height man. if you're a manlet or super tall, that would be a disqualification.

the lamp runs on a friction "bottle" generator". it's kind of a mixed blessing, the generator is heavy and the friction it runs on puts a giant dent in your power. a bad value in these days of small batteries and LEDs. but still kinda neat from a "period correct" standpoint and they're reliable af from what I understand. those "turkey lever" extensions on the brake levers are a known fail-point in white-knuckle emergencies; don't get in the habit of using them.

It's a pretty neat bike for $100 partly because the pic makes it look like it's in great shape, but of course if all the bearings are shot and the cables are frozen in the housings then don't bother or haggle for half-price if you want to do the work. If frame is cracked then tell 'em to fuck off. but if she's as good as she looks, I'd totally buy at that price, personally.
>>
>>924802
buy a nice pair of walking shoes
>>
>>924813
>>924815

Thanks for the great feedback. I'm going to go ahead and pick it up so long as the frame looks sound. I'll really only use it for my short 5mi daily commuter and around town. Seems like it should suit my needs well and look cool doin it.

I'll probably end up taking off the generator light out of convience and swapping out the cranks. Fingers crossed that bb isn't Swiss threaded....
>>
Going to buy my first road bike very soon. I have been riding my hybrid a lot but it's time to upgrade for my 23 mile commute from work to home 3x a week. I have it narrowed down to these two:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/5439178423.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/5444225248.html

Any suggestions?
>>
>>925333
cannondale will last you longer.
>>
>>922087
>standard rhyno lite
>21mm internal width

>rhyno lite xl
>23mm internal width

Nah. MTX 33 or MTX 39. Ya bitch.
>>
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does anyone have any experience with recent raleigh bikes, as i've been eyeing up the mustang elite and it seems perfect, front and rear thru-axles, wide tyres, and 1x drivetrain.
>>
>>924649
Did this once when looking at 90's MTB's; honestly I had forgotten I had messaged until a couple days later, and felt too awkward to send anything back. Had a lot on my plate that day...
>>
Looking at entry level bikes to commute/joy ride with and some light trails.

Something like the
cannondale quick CX series
Kona Splice
Specialized Ariel Sport disc / Crosstrail sport disc

Trying to keep it under $1000 canadian
>>
>>925505
>all those flat bars
You're going to get a lot of angry replies
>>
>>925505
I think you'll be better off with a cyclocross bike if your trails are packed dirt with minimal roots/rocks. Should be able to get 11 speed kona jakes from last year for below $1000
>>
>>925505
a used or 2-3 year old cross bike would be good or a rigid mountain bike, stick some race kings or x-kings on it and it'll do for commuting and light trail use.
>>
>>925511
>>925514
thanks for your input, but I guess I am leaning towards a more city/hybird bike than a cross bike.
Either way I will have a look at one at the shop eventually, really the only way to know for sure is to get on a few bikes and see what works for me.

A quick search on kijiji shows a few Kona Jakes for sale, but the price difference between those ($500-900) makes me wonder if its not worth just spending the same amount on a new bike like the Specialized Ariel Sport Disc for example
>>
>>925523
Well if you want to go with a womens bike with bottom of the barrel components, go ahead.
>>
>>925528
yes I know, i listed a womens bike by accident i am a moron.
>>
Hey lads,
What track bikes would you recommend for a track noob who normally rides a 58 cm frame?
I am not rich, so no BT's or cervelos kek.
>>
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>>925505
>Kona Splice

I love Kona. But if you're looking for an entry level flat-bar bike, I'd say just drop $300 on a nice vintage MTB with a rigid fork

You'll get the fat tires you want, a flat bar, and save a bunch of money

Road-ish bikes with flat bars can be twitchy and lame. Worst of both worlds for most people

Vintage MTB is currently the best deal in the bike world. Check your local for a used Cannondale in good condition. Spend the extra money having a shop install Kool Stop pads on V-brakes. and get a nice comfy saddle + rear rack + panniers for commuting with stuff in tow

> AND FENDERS

> AND FAT SLICK TIRES
>>
>>925558
>Fat slick tyres

This anon knows what's up.
If you're on the weaker side, it might be worth making sure your gearing is low enough to counteract the heavy bike and low pressure-high rolling resistance tyres.

Something like 1:1 low gear is lovely for relaxed bike touring, I vastly prefer a double chainring though.
>>
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>>925558
>having a shop install Kool Stop pads on V-brakes
What, you don't own hex-keys or what the fuck is wrong with you?
>>
Hey guys, complete noob here. This is a hobby that i feel like i would be super interested in. Can people please point me in the direction where I can learn more about it?
>>
>>925869
sheldonbrown.com
parktool.com
>>
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How much faster will I really go between a department store mountain bike with road tires and a brand name hybrid using 600c's? Like a comparison between a specialized cirrus and a Walmart bike. With road tires.
>>
>>925907
Assuming the BSO actually functions properly, on the flat the difference is going to be pretty minimal. Although if your mtb has shocks with no lockouts (?) you'll lose power through those.

The cirrus is 10.5kg, could easily see the BSO being 15+kg. You'll crush it on hills.
>>
>>925909
>Assuming
That's a big assumption

Also BSOs are going to have parts go weird much quicker and will be harder to fix easily. Whether it's a misaligned brake or an out of true wheel or whatever, all that extra friction is going to be a drag.
>>
How do you feel about guys riding step through bikes? There's a couple cheap ones on gumtree and I feel like they'd be useful for short commuting and shopping, etc. It seems like drivers want cyclists to use Dutch style bikes but will you guys think I'm ghey?
I know they probably won't fill well, etc.
>>
What are Trek Domanes like for sportives/longer rides etc?
>>
>>925916
As long as you're not wearing a tweed jacket with checked trousers and vintage hobnail boots and wrap your moustache bars with stitched leather bar gloves, I'm probably ok with this.

Just dress like a normal person.
>>
>>925916
Step-throughs are awesome for bikes with child seats and the like. I see nothing wrong with having one. As a piece of sports equipment they're not very great as the step-through frame is significantly flexier than a standard double diamond.
Also, as "womens bikes" they tend to let stupid people buy bikes that are too big, thinking as long as the step-through fixes the stand-over issue it's all fine. When sizing, image it had a standard top tube.

Step-through is all right. Go for it.
Mixte is also very pretty, if you can get that type.
>>
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>>925911
It's a **nishiki pueblo with road tires**

And I usually bike ~15 miles to work and back with two hills in between, I'll find the elevation tonight.

**yes the lock is shite, I just bought a huge U-Lock**
>>
>>926045
Fugg spoilers no longer work.

Anyway, I'm max poorfag so excuse my shitty ride. At least I have a headlight and taillight.
>>
>>926045
And the fucking thing posted upside down? Thanks 4chan
>>
>>925971
They tend to be a bit overpriced relative to the components you're getting.
>>
>>926049
>picture upside down
Applefag detected
>>
>>925971

Giant defys tend to be better bang for your buck
>>
>>926088
It's a G3 actually, the exif eraser flipped the fucking photo
>>
>>926110
Giant Defy has no comfort gimmicks. You might as well buy Fuji/Nashbar/BD at that point.
>>
>>926307
D-fuse seat post?
>>
>>926309
D-fuse just means carbon seatmast/post.
>>
>>926312

Idk man, it's no domane but reviews seem to indicate it has some comfort gimmicks. I wouldn't lump it in with nashbar/bd.
>>
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Is £140 for a secondhand Dawes Mojave (pic related) worth it? I need something for commuting/shopping/light trail riding and I'm broke af.
>>
>>926379
yeah, it'd be better quality than anything you could buy new for £140, but it may need a service, so drop it round your LBS when you buy it.
>>
>>926061
What's a better option?
>>
>>925971
If you're typically riding on thoroughly fucked roads or lots of gravel, the decoupler does what it says on the tin. It's only 20mm of travel but it takes the edge off. If you're on mostly smooth roads, you won't get much benefit out of it, and might notice some softness and a bit less power transfer than you'd like. You'd be much better off with an Emonda SL or SLR in that case. I really like whatever Terk did with the Emonda to make it a good climber, even when not built below the UCI weight limit.

If you do wind up getting a Domane, get the disc version.
>>
>>926379

wouldn't buy that to be honest.
I'd wait for a cheap 90s mtb to come around
>>
>>925558
The used market in the GTA in unreasonable.

Ok lets say I go away from a flat bar,
How about something like the cannondale caadx sora ?
>>
What websites are good for buying secondhand bikes in the UK?
>>
Hey bbg I need a bike that I can go bmxing with, do off roading dirt ramps with, and be able to keep up with my girlfriend's more Street oriented(?) bike. What do? I know next to nothing about bike brands. I just use whatever bmx bike my friend builds for me.
>>
>>926307
What do you mean by that?
I am looking into the Giant TCX SLR and Specialized Cruc E5 and I still wonder if Spec has worse groupset and better frameset or if it's just brand/marketing.
>>
>>926549
I think gumtree is what people use.
>>
http://dawescycles.com/product/xc18-gents-2/

Is this a decent entry-level bike, or a Walmart-tier PoS that'll fall apart in a matter of months?
>>
>>926588
It's very much entry level, but I don't think you'd call it a BSO.
>>
>>926588

I think you could do better for that price on a used bike. Spend 100 on the bike, 100 at the shop having it tuned up for you with whatever it needs
>>
>>926379

If you can talk them down to 90 or 100 it's a good deal by Philadelphia standards.

You'll get your money's worth with the fenders and the rear rack (at least $50 usd) If the chain/tires/etc are in working order it's a good deal

If the chain is dirty, or if shifting/braking is not good, talk them down to 100 and say you'll need to get it serviced and that's what the money will go to.

Around here, if you are patient and willing to walk away eventually you'll get a good used bike at the 90-100 euro price

Also you must spin the wheels and check for wobble. Those are very expensive to replace and straightening them costs a fair amount of money. I'd just walk away if the wheels aren't true (straight)
>>
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Any reason why a Specialized Pitch isn't a decent entry level mountain bike?
>>
>>926567
Giant makes half of everyone else's frames anyways. You're buying the name imo. Giant bikes are good value for money.
>>
>>926655
Not anywhere near half. A large minority of bike companies subcontracts with giant, that makes a large minority of their frames. Not all companies use giant, and for companies that do use giant, not all their frames come from giant.
>>
>>926655
K, thanks, another reason to narrow down my options.
>>
>>926613
yeah it's a specialized.
>>
>>926760
This post is a textbook example of why people hate /n/. Good work.
>>
>>926396
pls respond. What's a good bike £1000 or under for sportives and longer rides but sportier than a touring bike?
>>
>>926797
RT-58 is hard to beat in value.
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXRT58ALRIV22/planet-x-rt-58-alloy-sram-rival-11-road-bike

Or RT-80 is you can blow your budget by £100.
http://www.planetx.co.uk/c/q/bikes/road-bikes/rt-80
>>
>>926797
https://www.canyon.com/en/road/endurace/2016/endurace-al-6-0.html
>>
>>926837
That's an awesome bike, but for one thing: the wheels, that have two in my opinion fatal flaws. The body is not ball bearing, but POM sleeve bearing and requires constant maintainence, because it:
Needs to be lubricated with oil and not fat
Is not very well sealed and will not keep the oil in place
Is not rifled and does not circulate the lubricant through the beearing, but will run dry almost immediately

The other is the use of an alu body that, while light, gets eaten into by non-spider cassettes. This is a more minor point and not a problem with 105 5800 cassettes semi-spider construction, but should you ever want to use an aftermarket cassette without a spider, the body will get eaten through with fucked up indexing, difficult to remove cassette and destroyed body as a result.

I'd much rather have the cheap Shimano wheels of the RT-58.
>>
>>926840
What the actual fuck are you talking about?
>>
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>>926842
>I've never seen the play in a Mavic freehub body after a season of use
Hue hue hue
>>
>>926797

trek 720 maybe
>>
I'm 175cm (5'9) with an inseam of 74cm (29"). is a 50~53cm (19.5 ~ 20.5) bike the right size for me?
>>
>>927044

Yes
>>
Should I get a 1982 Bridgestone Sirius for $300? This would be my first road bike to replace my hybrid and I want to commute and possibly go on longer rides on weekends.
>>
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My fellow /n/igs, I need your honest assesment from anyone that has purchased chink wheels before. I'm eyeing this set from ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221381692422

I wont pull the trigger if these things are unsafe or just not reliable, but my understanding from some youtubers is that all name brand carbon wheels are made IN china, the only difference being that name brand wheels might have slightly better hubs and are hand assembled locally with 'care' - what ever that means.

But just let me know what's up, bros. I definitely don't wanna blow my hard earned cash on something that wont last.
>>
>>927230
>assembled with care
That means they run QC checks, reject bad ones, engineer them properly, and have supervisors that make sure things are being done right.

As opposed to mystery brand X, which possibly grabs rims out the reject bin, builds rims with defects, uses whatever carbon scrap they get for cheap with whatever layup doesn't instantly implode, but without concern for long term durability etc.

That being said, If the failure rate for a quality rim was 1 in 1000, and the failure rate for a China rim was 1 in 10, even if the failure rate is 100 times less on the name brand rim, the China rim might still be okay 90% of the time.

It is very hard to tell from forum posts how safe generic Chinese rims are. I posted once about some subpar Chinese products, and got bashed from both sides. The LBS shills bashed me for buying Chinese (I was actually scammed, photos and priced like the real thing, sent fakes), and the China shills accused me of being a LBS shill trying to make China carbon look bad. It's already embarrassing to admit you fucked up when you get a defective China carbon part. When both sides come out against you when you share your experience, there's no reason for people to share their experience.

Instead you mostly only get positive reviews. It makes the China buyers happy with themselves and makes them feel good that they think they bought 100% exactly the same as ZIPPS for 1/10th of the price, even when it obviously isn't true. The LBS shills can call you out on buying Chinese, but it just makes them look ignorant and entitled when they do it.
>>
>>927227
A Sirius would be a fine first road bike if it's your size. $300 is the most I would ever consider paying for one though, and that much only if the bike was in very good condition, recently overhauled, and not needing any consumables replaced.
>>
>>927234


Well see, I did a bit of research on some of these chinese sellers, it turns out that only about 4 or 5 are reputable enough to even consider buying from them. Some of which have long running feedback from buyers long after they made their purchase. But that said, I rather focus on the negatives to see if there's any patterns there. I dunno, man - I'm still on the fence about this - It's not that I want to upgrade, rather that I need to replace my current set of alloy mavics because the rear wheels has a crack right where the spoke is. And honestly, man, I dont give two flying fucks what my local LBS thinks about me. Hypothetically speaking, if I were to buy these chink wheels and they ended up exploding on me then I wouldnt go to them and parade to them about what happened - fuck that. But if I were to go in there to have my chink wheel set trued then they better fucking do it without any lip if they care of any good business - because they know damn well that their mechanics are what keep their shitty establishment afloat.
>>
>>927238
>And honestly, man, I dont give two flying fucks what my local LBS thinks about me.
I'm talking about internet forums

>Hypothetically speaking, if I were to buy these chink wheels and they ended up exploding on me then I wouldnt go to them and parade to them about what happened - fuck that.
And this is why no one knows the actual failure rate.
>>
>>927239


However, I would bitch about it on forums and followups on feedback if any was left behind. Either way, I might just end up buying some alloys again.
>>
>>927236
Sweet, thanks for your response. It's being sold by someone who overhauled it and replaced the consumables. I'll check it out in person and see if it's in good condition. I figured $300 is a high but fair (ish) price if someone else did the restoring.

I think I'm going to go for it if the test ride is good.
>>
>>926836
>Planet X
>SRAM

Literally who?
>>926837
That looks nice cheers
>>
>>927301
>Literally who?
Who what?
>>
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Would you say a '92 Marin Muirwoods is worth £80? It's refurbished and comes with a 3-month warranty.
>>
>>927493

If everything works the way it should, sure.
>>
>>927493
It doesn't look like a 29er
The only bike worth getting** is a Marin Muirwoods 29er

**note: "worth getting" doesn't not apply to sponsored UCI Intercontinental Pro bike racers. Everybody else should at least have as nice of a bike as a Marin Muirwoods 29er to be safe, but nobody except the best in the world need anything more than a Marin Muirwoods 29er has to offer.
>>
>>926836
>SRAM
>>
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Hey /bbg/, I'm looking to buy my first road bike and I have a budget of <1.5k usd, preferably <1k. So far the best candidates are the Canyon Endurance AL 5.0/6.0, the Canyon Inflite 8.0 AL, and the Specialized Allez E5 Sport. Now, because I live in bumfuck, southamerica, I need to add 323usd to any canyon I buy, while I can just pop into my local Spesh shop and grab the Allez. Even then, the Allez and the Al 5.0 cost the same but the AL has full tiagra group including brakes, while the allez only has a partial Sora group.

What other bikes should I consider? I would prefer something that can withstand occasional gravel offroading.
>>
>>927576
Ganyon
>>
Chinese frame, and cheap shimano groupset from merlin cycles.

That's the solution to pretty much everyone's questions.

Where do you think Cervelos, canyons, treks and lapierres are made? In China of course. They all use Japanese Toray Carbon of varying grades. If you can find bikes that use open molds (the same ones that are used for some well known bikes), then you can literally get the exact same frame.
>>
>>921976

my first serious bike was a 105 equivalent caad 10. Amazing bike. I now have a carbon bike but I miss that caad now and then. It will certainly be more reliable than that nashbar POS.
>>
>>927601
Except there's no QC. Just because a factory can make good frames doesn't mean they aren't capable of also making absolute shit.

It's also really not much cheaper than just buying a BikeIsland or Nashbar carbon frame or complete that comes with a warranty.
>>
>>927760
LBS shill detected.
>>
>>925607
>>925558

>2016
>not riding disks

Enjoy your minimal stopping power plebs
>>
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I would like to get clipless pedals for my road bike since I feel like I am about to slip off constantly when putting power down hard.

What are recommended entry level pedals and shoe combinations?

I thought of getting Shimano 105 pedals because my bike has a 105 groupset?
>>
>>928202
SPD-SL 550 pedals are every bit as good as the 105 pedals and a lot cheaper.

Having your cleats set up properly is far more important than how much you spend on pedals but 550s are an excellent choice unless you're a pro rider or such.
>>
>>928202
Just reminding that SPD-SL, the Shimano road specific system, is extremely unpractical to walk in. If you're using said bike for anything but training you want the regular SPD style shoe system and a compatible cleat/pedal.
The SPD shoes have an actual sole, and the cleat is recessed into the sole to enable you to walk. They're still stiff, but you can easily run errands and do everyday stuff without being Bambi on ice.

I use CB Candy3 on my road bike because they offer a slightly better lateral support than Eggbeater, and much better than the Shimano SPD cleat system.
>>
>>928208

Thank you. I will look into them. My plan was to go to a shop and have someone who (hopefully) knows what they're doing setting it up initially and talking me through the things to look for.

>>928217

They are going on my road bike which I use exclusively for riding for fun/ training. No commuting or anything like that. I don't expect to be walking more than maybe a few metres into a café on these shoes.
>>
>>928219
keep in mind there are other factors besides walking, such as ease of clip in/clip out

if you're doing long distances (like 50-100 miles) you shouldn't consider MTB but if your rides are on the short side, MTB pedals are easier to use

then again if you're riding with roadie fashion nazis that won't be acceptable at all

then again you are riding with platform pedals on a road bike so presumably that's not an issue
>>
>>928220

>then again you are riding with platform pedals on a road bike so presumably that's not an issue

I ride wearing jeans and shit. Not an issue to me. Also yeah I ride mostly longer distances between 50-100km and sometimes more but I also like the look of road bike pedals and shoes on a road bike (shame on me).

Initially I thought about using mtb pedals so I could just get another set of mtb clipless pedals for commuting but I imagine it's more of a pain in the ass in traffic and with traffic lights so why not get the road pedals for the road bike and regular platform pedals for everything else.

As for ease of clip in I believe that is just something you have to practice and get used to, right?
>>
>>928222
no, double sided (MTB) pedals are objectively easier to clip into because you don't have to flip the pedals around, you literally just jam your foot onto the pedal and go
>>
>>928226

Alright. Still prefer road bike pedals though to be honest.
>>
>>928222
>As for ease of clip in I believe that is just something you have to practice and get used to, right?
Yes, but once your used to them the clipless mountainbike systems aren't in any way a pain in the ass in traffic. You clip in/out by muscle memory just as easily as you lift your foot off a caged pedal.
Go with your initial plan of mountainbike clipless everywhere, and if you later feel you want the road systems for some reason, buy the extra pair of shoes then.

Not wearing fucking jeans on your century rides will make one hell of a lot more difference than having SPD-SL instead of SPD.
>>
>>928229

I ride wearing shorts in summer but it is still too cold right now (for me at least).

Thanks for the input
>>
>>928219
Get the 550's off wiggle/amazon etc and fit your cleats with this method, it's the best advice you'll get for free, even if it's a bit of work.

Also, they're not a pain in the ass in traffic as you can just lean against something like a pole or traffic light and stay clipped in. Works for me anyway.

https://vimeo.com/9589645
>>
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Did i get taken?
I bought these 2 bikes for 120 each..
Left is a Peugeot, says made in France on it. Right just says Schwinn on the front. I want to make them ride-able as entry-level road bikes. The Peugeot seems to need more work as it is missing a front derailleur and the wheels are 27" and shot to shit. The swchinn might just need to be balanced, new tires, and tuned-up.
>>
I want to get a good touring bike that wont rape my wallet. Any suggestions?
>>
>>928399

Pretty much supermarket-tier BSOs of their time. Is that a fucking one piece crank on the Schwinn?
>>
>>928403
Should i try to get my money back?
>>
What do you guys think of the [Ridley X-Bow Disc (Sora)]? It's seems like a lot of bang for the buck. In addition, the paint job is sexy as hell
>>
>>927869
>being bad
>not being good
>>
>>928399
>>928404
Unless you live in a big city like NYC where all bikes are pricey, $120 is about max value for a UO-8 or a Varsity in reasonable good condition. So you did pay more than I would have.

>Should I try to get my money back?
Unless you were actually deceived by the seller somehow I think you'll have to treat this as a learning experience.

>>928407
Looks reasonable: there's nothing really fancy or special on that bike that stands out, but all the components are good quality with the potential exception of the wheels which are probably machine-built. I'd get the wheels checked over for even tension by a skilled human before riding on them, but otherwise I see no reason not to believe that'd be a fine bike for CX riding straight out of the box.
>>
>>928421
Thanks I actually live in Los Angeles, so I guess that would affect the price?
>>
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What kind of bike would /n/ recommend for doing long tours over several days (around 1000km distance in total)?

I was thinking about getting a Fuji Touring since it seems well equipped and robust and the price is pretty good.

And in general what would you look for in a bike for long tours with bags on the bag etc.?
>>
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Is this worth $100? looking for it to be my first bike. market might be a little high cause it's a hipster town.
>>
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>>928737
>" For sale is a 10 speed vintage bike, made in Japan by Bridgestone bicycles. I recently regreased it, put on some new cables, and tightened everything up. I received a lot of compliments on it back when it was my daily rider, it was the bike that got me into bicycling! I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it too!"
>>
>>928738

I personally don't even consider buying 10 speeds because of the lack of upgrading options, but that bike is probably worth 100 unless there's some serious damage that's being kept on the downlow.

6-7 speed systems have 126mm dropouts, which can accept the modern 130mm standard pretty easily. the 5 speed system is 120mm, no amount of cold-setting will ever get that to work with 130mm hubs.

Then again I'm a heathen that puts integrated brakes/shifting on 1980s frames so what the hell do I know.
>>
>>926006
Not that anon, but would mixtes be a little less flexible than normal step throughs?
>>
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I think I'm going to look at an old Diamondback roadie tonight.
I'm pretty sure it's a Momentum, but I can't be positive. If it is, it should have the shimano 300ex group.

What do you guys think, is it worth $75?
>>
>>928738
It probably is worth $100, but I wouldn't pay that much for it.
It looks like a solid frame with decentish component, but that also looks like a cottered crank. I really avoid cottered cranks.
>>
>>928861

Yep a steal at $75, unless the frame is damaged
>>
Hi /bbg/

I've got a 10 mile commute to work and I think I'd like to make it on bike, but I don't know shit about bikes other than how to operate one.

I'm a manlet at 5'4" and can hit a ballpark of around $1000 if that's what a quality bike costs. Most of the ride is on a bike trail, but a good amount is also on road, so I think I'll need to buy lights, too.

Recommendations?
>>
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I stuck between two bikes.
>Rose Pro DX Cross-2000
better color, more fender options, standard seat stay, avid bb7
>Giant TCX SLR
more interesting top tube, rated up to 136kg, lifetime warranty, trp spyre, 60 EUR cheaper

I've been on both bikes but can't decide. What's your opinion on the bikes and which would you prefer?
>>
>>923550
Not that guy but I'm a very newby newb at this, I recently got a bicycle again after like 10+ years of just walking/driving, and I found that having a front suspension helps a lot in a shit yuro capital with potholes the size of lake victoria (Rome, Italy.)

I tried my first urban cycle path yesterday and it was more bumpy than the park dirt trail I went through a couple days ago. Big roots cracking through asphalt, curbs, general road trash like branches... I found that the front suspension really helped me. (it's not even a particularly good one, just a decent low budget one, Suntour XCR)
>>
>>921976
>carbon
>ultegra
>$1404

I wonder what corners they cut, I'd hate to find out the hard way...
>>
>>928772

>upgrading a 10-speed

Why bother? If you need spares just go look in the trash.
>>
>>929071

Flip a coin faget.
>>
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>>928495

Anything.
>>
Need a bike for biking in NYC my budget is about 500-750. I don't really know what I'm looking for can anybody help me out?
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