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/bqg/ - Bike Questions General

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Thread replies: 330
Thread images: 58

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Resources:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
http://sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer
>>
Anyone have any recommendations for CX bike rims? I'm looking for something light and tough, 700c clincher, for rim brakes, 22-25 outer diameter.

I've been running cheap Sun CR-18's on my CX bike (that I treat like a rigid MTB) for the past few years and although a good wheelbuild and proper maintainance have kept them from going out of true, the aluminum is soft enough that the rims themselves have gotten dinged and bent more than a few times.
>>
Is there such thing as a 12-14-16-18-20-22-24-26-28-30 10spd cassette?
And is there any reason why this wouldn't be a good idea?
>>
getting a bike from a pawn shop how fugged am I
>>
>>1093304
If your rims are getting dented then your tyres are too small or at too low a pressure for how you're using the bike. Get a mountain bike with clearance for larger tyres and disc brakes so you don't have to worry so much about the rims staying true.

>>1093307
I don't think such a thing exists, at least stock (you can make anything you want from separate cogs). I don't know why you'd want to do it, 28 to 30 is a tiny and unnecessary jump so you could make that bigger and then have the gaps closer on the small end (12 to 13 for example).
>>
>>1093308
I've seen pawnshops try and sell bikes in deplorable condition, you should have the bike checked over by a bikeshop before you ride it.

>>1093309
I have a MTB too, but I like my CX bike, it's nice for riding longer distances to get to a trail and then getting rad.
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>>1093310
Do they charge for checking the bike and I want to listen to music and have somewhere for my water bottle to go since I live in Nevada what would I need?
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>>1093311
Most bike shops will take a quick 2-minute look at a bike to spot obvious problems without charging you, but if there's work needed you'd pay for a tune up.

Putting bottle cages on a bike is also normal, and inexpensive.
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>>1093313
There is a lot of dirt roads, rocks, and plants that can deflate the wheels here any recommendation for wheels I should get or something I could do about it had a problem with it last time I had a bike.
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>>1093314
any MTB with wider tires will do fine, if you're getting a road bike on rough gravel the trick is to run the widest possible tires that will fit inside the frame/brake calipers.
>>
>>1093309
The small gaps on the small end is what I want to avoid, I don't race so these 1t jumps do nothing for me. I also hardly ever use the 11t cog (at that point might as well coast since I run a 53t up front)
Maybe I should just get a compact crankset.
>>
>>1093326
Doesn't matter whether you race or not, it just feels nicer with smaller jumps. If you're fine with the 12 to 14 jump then you (15%) then you could go 12-14-16-18-20-24-28-32-36-42. If you don't want to build a cassette then an 11-40/42 would do and then go with a 48/50 up front, then the low end may be low enough that you could go 1x.
>>
This is not a question, I just wanted to share a little story

My chain on my bike snapped last week, being sick of paying so much money at the repair shop every time, I decided to order a chain and some tools online and give it a go myself. I tried cleaning my old snapped chain, but just decided to discard and replace it with the new one. First time ever using the chain breaker tool, I managed to replace the chain on my MTB all by myself.

Once you get a taste for repairing your stuff yourself instead of paying tons of cash at a repair shop, it's really satisfying and you really appreciate how things work. Thanks for listening.
>>
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I'm a complete cycling newfag so this might be a dumb question.

Can I take a vintage frame and put all new stuff on it easily to build a modern bike based around an 80s frame?
>>
I came back from a ride this morning after putting new tires/tubes on my bike, and the front wheel tube blew-out after I got home. It didn't seem like there was anything wrong when I was riding it, but once I left it alone it ended up blowing out after a few minutes. Anyone have any thoughts on what went wrong?

If it helps, the tire was 25c, which the wheel says it's the highest it can take, and the tube said it would fit 25-32.
>>
>>1093357
Once i buy my first road racer i will learn to DIY,
to take care and fix any problems that will pop up along the road
Thanks for your comment, it inspired me
>>
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>>1093429
Yes, putting new parts on a nice older frame is a normal thing to do. There's a thread on Bikeforums.net about this with literally thousands of examples.

>>1093431
a blowout immediately after installing and riding on a new tube typically means that either the tube was trapped under the tire bead before complete inflation, or a defective tube if the blowout happened because the tube split at a seam
>>
>>1093431
>>1093460
Another likely reason is that the rim tape isn't doing his job because it isn't properly installed or defective.
If you removed your tube the position and style of the puncture may help to determine the source. A single puncture in the inside is indicator of what I'm saying. A couple of punctures means that you pinched your tube because you aren't inflating enough.
>>
My drivetrain (8 speed casette) is noisy only when using the biggest 4 or so sprockets. What could cause it? wear?
>>
What kind of bikes should I look for if I want to go fast on a low budget? Used road bikes or are there any better bang for buck alternatives?
>>
>>1093460
>putting new parts on a nice older frame is a normal thing to do.

So new parts just tend to fit right on? Everything is modular?
>>
>>1093468
you have to get the right size parts to fit on your frame, but sizes tend to be common and easily accessible. like you need the steerer tube on your fork to fit the head tube on your frame, the bottom bracket needs to be the right size for the bb shell and so on.
>>
>>1093468
For the most part, yes, things are still compatible between modern and 80's frames. Most frames made then were spaced for 126mm rear hubs instead of 130mm (not a problem with a steel frame, you just squeeze the slightly wider hub in), and if you stick to quill stems you'll likely need to use slightly older handlebars which usually had 26.8mm clamp diameters whereas 31.8 is frequently seen today.
>>
>>1093466
really depends how you want to ride, do you want to go fast on the road or on mountain trails?

>>1093465
Could be, I'd rule out noise from the chain rubbing on the front derailer, or of some kind of damage to the rear derailer, or a bent derailer hanger. Definitely check your chain for wear though.
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I have rim brakes on an OTS I bought recently and am trying to adjust things. Should rim brake pads/shoes tilt downward or upward like in the picture. Ignore the proportions.


To my eye it looks like there is more contact on the left but someone told me that it should look like the right even if only an edge of the pad touches rather than the full pad.
>>
>>1093473
On the road
>>
Trying to order service kits for my 2007 Reba SL fork, however, there are a BILLION options. I want to make sure I get the right O-rings and foam rings/seal.

How do I make sure I get the right ones?
>>
>>1093494
Are you the guy that I was talking about it with in another thread? You want 32mm dust and oil seals and 10mm thick foam rings.

This may help with o-ring sizes if you can't find a kit: http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/o-ring-sizes-rs-revelation-reba-pike-inside-579868.html
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>>1093460
>>1093464

It looks like the tube has a clean cut on the seam going across a few inches by the valve. Would that be an indicator of a pinched tube, or is that a defective tube? Could it be possible that I over-inflated it? My tire says it can go up to 115 PSI, and I got it to around 100, wasn't sure if maybe that might have caused an issue.

On a related note, any recommendations on which brands make decent tubes? I got continentals, but after this I'll probably check out a different brand.
>>
>>1093307
>>1093326

That's a fucking horrifying cassette. Giant 17% jump from the 12 to 14, to a tiny 7% jump between the 28 and 30.

You don't want the same # of teeth between each gear, you want as close to the same *ratio* between each gear.

If anything, you want closer gears on the high end than on the low end - exactly like how an off-the-shelf 12-30 is set up.
>>
>>1093431
This happend to me once, this is most likely from wrong installation of the tube.

I had a tube blow out last year due to poor installation, I didn't fit the tire to the rim around the vent so the tube was resting on the bead.

Make sure your tire is compeltely seated on the rim, especially around the vent area. Push the vent back into the tire to make it fit better (you instictively pull on the vent to get it through the rim).
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Thinking about getting a Flying Pigeon and making an E bike

Good idea?
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>>1093593
an E-bike with rod brakes is a very stupid idea
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>>1093603
Convert the brakes then
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>>1093604
At that point you may as well just get a bike that doesn't have shitty brakes.
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>>1093609
I wanna kind of make it look like a 1910 motorcycle when motorcycles were just bicycles with engines. And that bike has a good luck for that. Unless I can find a similar looking town bike.

Most town bikes I've seen have too short a wheel base to get that vintage motorbike look.
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>>1093497
Yes, I'm that ANON. You helped a ton, but im having trouble finding the older parts. I have fund a number of kits, but cant determine if it is for both uppers (air piston and motion control) or just one side.
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With a £1000 budget should i buy a used carbon road bike or a new Aluminium ?
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>>1093491
Maybe this will make more sense. Do I want it like right or left?
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>>1093693
Right. You want the pad flat against the rim and as you have no angle adjustment you need the right option, then as the pad wears it will be be even flatter.
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>>1093695
Whats the best bang for buck narrow wide?
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>>1093709
Cheaper - RaceFace
Better - Wolftooth
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>>1093712
10 speed chain. KMC?
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>>1093709
I just got the cheapest one I could find off Ebay (in my country, don't like waiting for shit to come from China). No problems at all, there's not much to fuck up when making one and it'll last just as long as any other made from the same material.
>>
is there only one handle bar diameter? i wanna swap my curved handle bars to a straight bar.
>>
How exactly am I supposed to clean and lube my bike's chain and gears and shit properly? I had my rear tire get a flat today and had to change it, and when dismounting the chain and shit I had my entire hands painted black from the grease and shit. I'm using 3 in 1 oil I got from Lowe's, if it matters at all.
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>>1093721
go ahead and give your drivetrain a good cleaning with a mild degreaser ans a brush. when done, spin the cranks and apply a decent amount of lube to the chain, when done grab the chain with a rag and spin the cranks to remove excess lubricant. Not sure if 3in1 is the best, but honestly if your bike isn't fancy then it probably doesn't matter. If you really cared you could run to a bike shop and pick up a lube that matches the weather.
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>>1093718
no, theres 31.8, 25.x and 26.x.
31.8 mm is most common on newer bikes, it's stiffer. I think most vintage bikes and cheaper bikes use 26.x.

maybe another anon can clarify more
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I was given an old unused bike. While cleaning it all I used a chain break to take off the chain. I accidentally twisted too far and the pin fell out and wont go back in. After fiddling with it for a good 30+min and the pin refusing to go back in it chain dropped out of my hands and flung the pin off somewhere. I probably wont be able to find it again.
Questions:

>Are quick release links worth while?

>What do I need to check when buying a new chain?

>Any suggested places to buy bike stuff online in Australia? Just a beater bike I am using for commuting as a poor uni student so nothing fancy for me.

>Does anyone have any ways of getting pins back into a chain after it has come all the way out?
>>
>>1093767

Quick release links are absolutely fantastic, yes. You can certainly just replace a link with a quicklink.

A new chain needs to be of the appropriate spec for your drivetrain. 5/6/7 speed chains are one thing. 5/6/7, 8, 9, 10, and 11 speed chains are different from each other.

Once you have purchased your new chain, you will need to remove some links to make it the same length as your old chain.

>>Does anyone have any ways of getting pins back into a chain after it has come all the way out?

Not really.
>>
>>1093767
>Are quick release links worth while?
Yes, much better than fucking about with chain breakers (there are still times when you'll need one, but there are times when you just need to remove the chain without shortening it).

>What do I need to check when buying a new chain?
Just match the speeds, that's pretty much it. Same goes for the quick links. Certain chain sizes will cover multiple speeds with older lower speed drivetrains, for example 6 and 7 speed use the same chain and I think 8 and 9 do too.

>Any suggested places to buy bike stuff online in Australia?
Ebay, Amazon, Chain Reaction Cycles. As a Britfag I also use Tredz, Wiggle, and Planet X/On-One but can't be arsed to check if they deliver to Aus.

>Does anyone have any ways of getting pins back into a chain after it has come all the way out?
Lay the chain flat on a sturdy surface (wood would be best), hold the pin with pliers (probably needlenose), line the pin up with the hole and give it a tap with a hammer to get it started. Good luck, if you can't manage it you'll probably be fine shortening the chain by a link (one inner and one outer) so you can try again not to drive the pin out too far.
>>
If I'm weight weenying a bike to a moderate degree (current list: wheels/tyres, saddle, cranks/pedals, also upgrading brakes+rotors and rear derailleur+cassete but those aren't specifically for weight) would you bother swapping an allow seatpost for a garbon one?
>>
>>1093794
*alloy
>>
Another question that might be stupid but I'm a bike newfag:

Are derailleurs designed with a certain amount of gears in mind? Or can any derailer be used for any amount of gears?

If I take a derailer off a bike that is used to swapping between 6 gears on the rear cassette. Could I put it on a bike that had less, or more. As long as I indexed it correctly and set the maximum range correctly?
>>
>>1093794
>would you bother swapping an allow seatpost for a garbon one?
For comfort maybe, but not for weight. Even with the lightest carbon post you'll only be saving a little over 100g (~30%) and spending 5 times as much.

What type of bike are you riding? With a mountain bike a lot of the time a dropper post is actually worth the increase in weight, even on a weight weenie bike.

Other than the things you've already mentioned I wouldn't say there's anywhere else you could save worthwhile amounts of weight (in terms of cost versus weight saved).

>>1093798
It depends on the manufacturer, the amount of speeds, and whether it's road or MTB. To save yourself the headache just keep it simple and keep those three factors matched.
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>>1093807
Gravel/adventure bike, aluminium frame with a carbon fork.

It's never going to be the lightest thing around, but I figure knocking 1 kg+ off the weight will make it feel that much nicer. Really wish Jan would release Babyshoe pass in tubeless already, though.
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>>1093794
Nah. Eat less cake.
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What are your thoughts on these?
Too much white?

Need new bibs, and a local shop has these for $50. I've used Pearl Izumi in the past, so size/fit is not an issue. Was just unsure of the coloring.
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>>1093824
It's fine as long as you're 25 or younger
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I'm trying to figure out roughly how old this bike is. Early 90's is my guess, given the aluminum tubing style, steel fork, and downtubes. Anyone else got a better guess?
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>>1093834
Yeah probably late 80s/early 90s, though the non-aero brake levers kinda throw me off
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where can I see more old rigid mtb fixie tricks videos?

is there a name for this thing?

link very related: https://vimeo.com/user2623613
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When selling a bike on Craigslist, is it EVER advisable to take any payment that isn't 100% cash at the time of showing/exchanging the bike to the buyer?
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>>1093873
Cash and/or PayPal is the best for both parties.
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>>1093868
That has nothing to do with MTB and the bikes aren't old. Just search "fixie street tricks" on Youtube.
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>>1093873
Any payment is good if seller and buyer are happy with it, the buyer doesn't suddenly try to change terms that were agreed upon when he shows up, and it doesn't include promises of payment at some point in the future.
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>>1093873
Another way to avoid scammers or theifs is to arrange to meet at a police station. If they want to test ride your bike, have them have cash in hand and let you hold. That way, he is buying the bike if he rides off. Ususally, most people will get the idea you're not an idiot if you ask to meet at a police station. Another option is in a well lit place with cameras (I use my local Best Buy) Good luck
>>
>>1093767
>Does anyone have any ways of getting pins back into a chain after it has come all the way out?
I know I've done it but it was a huge pain and I learned to never overshoot since then because of that. I dont really remember what I did, I think I just dicked around with it forever, but
>>1093772
>you'll probably be fine shortening the chain by a link (one inner and one outer) so you can try again not to drive the pin out too far.
sounds right, also

>>1093798
most compatability issues are about indexing between the shifter and the cassette/freewheel (using friction mode renders this null, btw.) In your case those aren't changing. Mostly a derailleur will just move as needed but obvs an old 6 speed will prob not hit the range of a, say, 12 speed even with the limits maxed. also, the pulleys might be sized to a different speed chain's width, but pulleys can be swapped. sorry that's not a definite answer.

I'm running a semi-modern Deore derailleur on an old 80s 7-speed index and freewheel right now. I assume range was designed to be bigger but setting narrower limits was no problem. the pulleys are for a narrower chain but since narrow fits into wide, no problem. a wide pulley on a newer drivetrain is different, tho.
>>
>>1093900
>Mostly a derailleur will just move as needed but obvs an old 6 speed will prob not hit the range of a, say, 12 speed even with the limits maxed
It's not just that. Even if the lower speed derailer could move far enough (freewheels and cassettes haven't gotten much wider, the cogs are just spaced closer together) it may have a different pull ratio, meaning it may move too much or too littler for every click of the shifter. A lot of SRAM stuff is compatible even if you mismatch speeds as they started using a 1:1 ratio on everything, but Shimano uses different ratios for different speeds and they even changed it depending on if it's road or MTB with I think 10 speed and up (so you couldn't use a MTB derailer with road shifters for example).
>>
>>1093903
hmm, okay. but if I understand correctly, the anon could still avoid those issues if he was willing to run friction shifting rather than index, is that correct?

anyway, thanks for setting it straight.
>>
>>1093909
Yeah friction shifters would work.
>>
Is anterior pelvic tilt the cause of my dick / scrotum falling asleep when cycling? No matter how far back or forwards I set my seat they always fall asleep when I'm biking.
>>
>>1093917
Stop killing your dick
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>>1093917
Maybe you have a saddle too narrow so you're resting your weight on your taint rather than your sitbones
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Just started road biking today. Is 43kmh fast for a sprint ?
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cop or not?
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>>1093953
No
Don't concern yourself with numbers
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>>1093970
Is that a steel rear end? If so I'd say no, if not then it looks like a fine bike so get it if the price is good.
>>
>>1093971
But I've got a need for speeed
>>
what size tubes and tires for these kind of wheels? any recommendations on good gumwall vintage style tires for the wheels ?sorry newfag here.

https://shop.mavic.com/en-us/cxp-elite-j23900.html#1028=3283&1035=3501
>>
what bike is this? says uo9 but never seen one like it
>>
2007 Reba guy here. Got all my service kits. Manual suggest using grease (SRAM butter). I do not have SRAM butter, can I use all purpose marine grease? I have some on hand
>>
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>>1093982
Consider Panaracer or Compass tires
>>
Why do freewheel hubs make clicky noises?

Isn't that robbing energy from the drivetrain to make that noise?
>>
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>>1093988
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freewheel
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>>1093988
The energy required to produce sound is magnitudes lower than other forces.
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>>1093988
you're right, you should ride fixed instead
>>
I just bought a 1980s aluminium Peugeot road bike for £80. Did I get ripped off?

Going to collect it in an hour. I purchased it from a bike shop so he's going to make sure it's set up right and still works. So I think that's worth a bit.
>>
>>1094086
While you could have gotten one for less, probably, £80 is not a lot for a bike and you're getting it without having to fuck with it to get it road-worthy and ridable.
If the BB and hubs have been regreased and overhauled then you've saved a lot of work.
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>>1093876
>>1093885
>>1093886
Thanks for the advice lads.

I asked because there is a guy interested in buying my bike (pic related, I'm the red of course, he is the blue) from my Craigslist ad, however because I am a sheltered moron, I do not know how to interpret his suggestions (aka, being from Texas [whereas I'm in Atlanta Georgia] and having his 'mover' inspect it)- I being paranoid think anything that isn't a direct person-to-person arrangement in a public place is a potential scam.

He's offering as you can see to have me cash a cashier's check and have it accepted before ever having his 'mover' inspect the bike, but me in my inimitably stupid and inexperienced ways don't know if that's a ploy to get hoodwinked (aka, the check getting suddenly bounced as he runs away with the bike or something like that).
>>
How much should I spend on a bag holder and bags ?
I want to be able to hold between 20 and 25kg but i'm afraid of buying one with a 25 kg max load because I plan on using it very often for long distances .
>>
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I ride mostly road and some MTB (mostly due to living in a very shitty place to ride MTB) I feel like I might enjoy getting into BMX.

would this help me increase my bike handling skills arcoss the genres ?

also what should I look for in a BMX ?
>>
Just picked up my 1980s Pug.

Never ridden a road bike before or a bike with drops. Jesus this shit hurts your back. And when peddling my knees are almost impacting my chest.
>>
>>1094114
Your seat is either too high or the stem is too low. Or more likely, both.
>>
>>1094115
I've not set either, I just picked it up and rode it 4 miles home.

The seat is not as high as it is on my rigid mountain bike commuter special. Should it be set any different on a road bike?

You can't just adjust stems you need spacers right?

Good things about the bike though. The rolling resistance and the weight is amazing. It's probably shit by today's standards. But it feels amazing to me.
>>
>>1094116
Look up basic bike fit. Get the seat height right, and then worry about stem height. As a 1980s stem it should have a quill stem, which don't have spacers. If it has a modern style of stem put into it, then adjustment is going to be easy. Adjusting a quill stem requires changing the stem. Assuming you're the guy who got it for £80 from a bike shop you could probably ask to swap the stem for a higher one if they have one available.

As for your back- your body will get more flexible and the back pain will go away or become negligible on the more extreme drops... after thousands of kms. Best to lead yourself in gently so those thousands aren't unpleasant.

General seat height guide is that you put your heel on the pedal, and when it's at the lowest position your leg should be almost but not quite straight. That's to get it in the ballpark.
Then you could adjust the seat forwards and backwards to get your knee, when the pedal is in the most forward position, to be directly over the pedal.
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>>1094118
That's the guide for optimal power, rather than for comfort. Just shove it down if you don't mind losing pedalling efficiency for comfort.
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>>1094118

Thanks,

Here's the bike I bought anyway,.
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>>1094120
Looks okay. That stem is a quill type so you should ask the bike shop about getting it higher.
Wasn't expecting to see STI shifters though. You can see knobs on the downtube where the downtube shifters used to be.
>>
>>1094120
Also the seatpost is a quickrelease, which you might want to change into a non-QR, since QR seatposts = stolen in like 10 minutes.
>>
>>1094120
Also on more thing, the handlebars are turned down. You could turn them up a fair bit to make them not so low when riding. The standard is to have the top bit be level with the top tube. This'd help with the knees.
>>
>>1094121
The drive train looks all shimano and I don't think the bike would have come with that originally. So the gears are probably newer than the frame
>>
I want to start bike touring. Travel is fun and money is tight so it seems like a great way to get around and see places on the weekends.

I have a heavy-ass, cheap mountain bike from ten years ago. I'll be starting to do some weekends on it to get a feel for the activity, but I want to save up for a bike I can put some real miles on.

I'll probably have to find something used on Craigslist, but I don't even know where to start. I don't expect to be spoonfed, but if anyone has any proper resources for getting into the process I'd super appreciate it.

TL;DR - What styles / brands (under $1000 [used]) of bike should I consider for touring?
>>
so i know bike weight is important for climbs and acceleration, but i have always have doubts with this:

in a completly flat scenario. does bike weigth matter when trying to maintain a certain speed? (lets think both bikes are exactly the same in aero specs).

also:
o want to buy online something like 8-15 11 speed chains (its for a 105 drivetrain, im using shimano but could switch to kmc). do you know any site that has good prices? or makes sales or something? im overseas and it would be cool that they ship them overseas, but if not i can still send em within the usa and then have someone bring em. im trying to save bucks as here they charge way too much for them. so if anyone knows a good deal, let me know!
Thoooonks
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>>1094130
>in a completly flat scenario. does bike weigth matter when trying to maintain a certain speed?
Technically yes, but it's a very small amount. If you go and strap a 5kg weight to your bike and pump up your tyres a bit more you'll notice a drastic difference in acceleration but once you are up to cruising speed it'll be just as easy to maintain as if the weight wasn't there.
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>>1094095
That is a scam . Do not go through with this!
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>>1093988
robbing energy only if you don't pedal thankfully.
your speedometer however will rob your energy via induction or friction constantly.
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so i have ordered a rockshox reverb 390mm instead of the shorter 310mm but realized i'm not going to use it, it will pretty much bottomed out in my frame, so i could probably just use the shorter one to save weight.

can i simply saw off the bottom? it's not the stealth variant.
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>>1094141
No, there are very few droppers that you can cut (Maverick Speedball/Crankbrothers Joplin is one that I know of, I had one and cut it down).

Looking at cutaway images of the Reverb Stealth you could maybe cut 10mm or so off the end but it wouldn't help as the hose is still coming out of the bottom, the external hose Reverb though has the air valve right at the bottom of the tube leaving no extra to cut off.
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>>1094141
they make a 340 and a 390 and no you cant cut it
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>>1094143
i just thought the same travel posts of different length might be exactly same except for the outer aluminum bar being longer.

however if the 390mm version is actually a longer drive shaft more stable version i'm happy with my purchase i guess.
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>>1094129
Read Sheldon brown, rivendell, biketouringnews, and compass bikes articles.
Believe Sheldon first and foremost because he's not trying to sell you anything.
Your old mtb might be a primo hobo Cadillac and you can build off that. Post a picture.
If not, a touring bike is a very personal rig, don't expect buying one second hand to satisfy you. The best ones are the most versatile and something like a surly or a trek or a Fuji might be a good start.
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>>1094141
also its $90 for the non retarded lever. If you get the stock plunger mount it on the opposite side its made for.
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I want to convert a 90's Schwinn sierra with a 5 or 6 speed rear der. to have drop bars and bar end shifters. can I pick up any bar end shifter, as they are just friction shifters? only the max number of gears would matter right? Pic related, i would like to get some nice used ones.
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>>1094149
i will see what works, i specifically ordered the right hand one because my fork lockout is on the left on this bike.
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>>1094145
That could've been a possibility, but then you have the air valve buried 80mm up inside the post.

If you can't return the post you have some other options to try and make it fit you, you can get a lower profile saddle (fairly cheap option) and you can get shorter crank arms and thicker pedals (more expensive and may not feel right).
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>>1094154
no i think my frame can take over 400mm of seatpost in, it shouldn't be a problem, it's really only about the unnecessary weight.
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What's best for a chain? Grease or lube?
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>>1094156
Oh right, I thought as you said it was bottoming out in your frame that you wanted to lower it some more.
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>>1094159
if i understand correctly the rockshox reverb seatpost has a 6.5cm "dead height" adds to this the 12.5cm adjustable totaling a 19cm minimal fully extended height.

i think i have my seatpost at 25.5cm right now, so actually i need an elevation of the post by 3.5cm. also 8cm must be contained in the frame minimally, so that's 33.5cm minimum seatpost length.

based on this i bought the right size after all. i really thought the dead length is more on the post closer to 10cm by looks of it and also didn't know from where the seatpost length was measured. that's why i had this stupid idea about cutting off.
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>>1094166
yeah don't know where i got the 310mm it's 340 as you said, in which case i could have swung that.
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>>1094158
dry or wax lube in most conditions- finish line is cheap and available everywhere. The best lube is the one that comes on the chain but it only lasts 1 ride.
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>>1094152
nothing contemporary is going to have 6 speed indexed. You might be able to get a hold of some old suntour barcons.
Some contemporary barends will have a friction mode that works for that.
Those SRAM are indexed with some sort return mechanism.
Your best bet new are either diacompe shifters or some sunrace or microshift barends.
Some late model shimano shifters might work too, ultegra or duraace.
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>>1094173
thank you, i'll look for non-indexed shifters. i can find Suntour's on ebay.
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Ive been getting into shape and losing weight, im down to 320lbs. I got myself a steel frame road bike. I'm a big fat and after 340 miles I need to true the rear wheel already. I've even cycling to work and this is now my main transportation method. So my question is what's the most stout heavy duty wheel I can buy? I don't want to spend a huge amount but I also want something I can put 120 miles a week on at my weight while I keep getting into shape.
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Hi all!
So here's my bike. Had it for a long time. Recently had a car accident with it hanging on the back (stupid cagers) and my wheels got fugged up. Bikes are so strong!
So I got a wheel, switched to a cable disc in the front. It's coo. But I need to replace my back wheel too. Front was just most critical.
Also my drive chain is pretty worn and I'm looking to upgrade.
Sooooo...
>I'm looking for a hydraulic disc brake road/cx groupset. Any recommendations?
I'm a working student and commute daily so something cheap and stronk.
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>>1094202
>commute, cheap, strong, durable, student, hydraulic
Yeah no
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Here's a close up of my new cable disc assembly.
I like it, but it's a pain in the ass to adjust properly.
*Shudders*
Also,
>Any guides on proper bike fit?
>How to adjust cable discs the right way?
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>>1094204
Cable discs and friction shifters are ok.
Not too long ago they didn't even have hydraulic brakes for road bikes.
I just thought it would be a nice upgrade :)
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>>1094202
As you're using barend shifters you can go with the cheap option of TRP Hylex.
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How good were the Shimano RSX groupsets back in the day?

The 1980s bike I bought has full RSX on it, + RSX hubs
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I need to bicycle from Los Angeles to Sierra Vista, AZ. Can I just ride parallel to the I-10 freeway as long as I'm roughly 3 car lanes away from it?
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>>1094223

RSX was one of the earliest modern-style integrated shifter systems. By current standards it is pretty bad but it is still a significant step up from downtube shifters.
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Are lever hoods pretty much universal fit?
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>>1094095
CL has a bit of pasta on the bottom of most of their pages warning against scams involving cashiers checks and western union and stuff. I'd read thru their link if I were you.
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>>1094227

Yes and no.

There isn't really anything you can do about it if you find out that the hood shape you have is uncomfortable for some reason. Really only a potential problem with the older ramped/hooked hoods, or if you have unusually tiny or huge hands.

You shouldn't really be death-gripping your hoods anyway. Relaxed grip, relaxed upper body.
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>>1094235
I don't wanna change the shape. I just want to get a different colour and want to know if some $15 ebay ones will fit.
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>>1094237

Oh.
Uhhh... if you're talking just like generic OTS brake levers, then generic hoods probably fit.

If you have newer aero levers or integrated shifters, generic hoods will probably not fit.
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>>1094118
>Adjusting a quill stem requires changing the stem
>>1094121
>That stem is a quill type so you should ask the bike shop about getting it higher.

???

>>1094120
You can easily raise that stem. Just loosen the top bolt a bit. The bolt threads into a piece at the bottom of the stem that wedges into the steerer tube of the frame. Don't loosen too much or the wedge will fall into the steerer. If it's stuck, hit the top of the stem bolt with a mallet to release the wedge. There will be a minimium insertion line, but you'll be able to get a few more cm height.

You should also angle your bars up a bit. It's good for the drops to be between parallel with the ground & pointed at the rear brake.
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What is the Trueno 86 of bikes?
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>>1094243

Dunno but I touge with this
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>>1094243
Fuji(wara) Track as much as I hate to admit it.

>>1094244
Full sus is the GT-R of bikes
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>>1094244
>>1094245
Interesting. What would be, how can I say it, a Lexus of bikes? A luxury comfort bike for richfags that is necessarily Japanese. And thanks.
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>>1094244
>SRAM NX
nope. Save your pennies for the GX version.
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>>1094246
Probably a Grand Bois randonneur bike with all the trimmings.
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>>1094246

>necessarily Japanese

A Cherubim I guess.
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>>1094256

Despite being a huge bicycle culture Japan doesn't really make bikes or succeed in international bicycle racing in any way.

A while back there was a scandal where the Japanese government bribed some Olympics officials to get the keirin added as an event, and they didn't even do very well at that iirc.

It's a little bit like asking what the Saab of bicycles would be.
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>>1094257
what about shimano
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>>1094200
Something 32, even 36 spoke if you can find it, a robust touring wheel.

As wide tyres as you can fit in the frame will probably help, too. Good luck anon.
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>>1094270
Thanks for the response. I'll pop over to the bike shop and ask about touring wheels and spoke counts.
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Budget recommendations for comfy ~32mm slick tires? Can't afford Panaracer or Compass tier tires
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>>1093972
yeah its steel rear. that was kind of the company's gimmick. why is that bad?
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>>1094257
>Those pedals
>no brakes
>rear rack so narrow it's unusable

And what is happening with that handlebar guys ?
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>>1094327
Because steel is heavy, flexy (rear end flex is bad enough with aluminium and something that manufacturers really try to fix), and it rusts.
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>>1094322
Basic paselas aren't very expensive.. under that price you are looking at whatever chinese shit that nobody bothers to even review.

Continental Grand prix (not 4k, not 4s, just plain) is pretty cheap and good but only 28mm
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asking agai cause i got no replies:
want to buy online something like 8 to 15 11speed chains (its for a 105 drivetrain, im using shimano but could switch to kmc). do you know any site that has good prices? or makes sales or something? im overseas and it would be cool that they ship them overseas, but if not i can still send em within the usa and then have someone bring em. im trying to save bucks as here they charge way too much for them. so if anyone knows a good deal, let me know!
Thoooonks
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Hey guys would it be worth spending 50€ for a bike so I can commute in the town I'll move to in two month ? It's rather small and I'm on a student budget so...
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>>1094387
what's the worst that could happen?
you can sell the bike for that much in 2 months and in the mean time you got to ride your bike
do you not like riding bikes?
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>>1094371
ProBikeKit has free shipping for orders over $95 and they sell Ultegra 6800 11spd chains for 29 bucks each. Not sure how big of a bargain that is, but I've had good experiences with them.
They're also US and UK based.
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>>1094329
>no brakes
have you heard of coaster brakes?
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>>1094390

I don't really know but maybe for this price the POS i'd get wouldn't be worth
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>>1094330
thanks for info. im a structural steel fabricator actually so I should know these things I just dont know how it all applies to bikes. if it ends up being shitty I can jerry rig something but I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on this one.
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>>1094404
>if it ends up being shitty I can jerry rig something
Unless you're gonna build an entirely new aluminium rear end there ain't no fixing it. Unless that shit's really cheap (a good second hand deal perhaps) there's no reason to go for it over all the other better alternatives.
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>>1093970
Am I seeing things or was that seatstay repaired? Looks like welding to me, right between the seattube and the rear wheel
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>>1094409
It's raw steel, what you're seeing is heat discolouration from welding.
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>>1094399
For that price you would get the usual bent rims, badly calibrated brakes and "doesn't shift well" here. Sometimes they are good to go though, you have to check for yourself.
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>>1093288
PAINTING A STEEL BIKE

i have a frankenstein kind of bike that i built up out of enough spare parts that i just had lying around. It;s going to be my commuter for college. something cheap i can leave locked up and not really worry about it getting stolen

however it's just a plain black frame. I have some good quality spraypaint that i tested on some other junk frames i had and it works well. Anyone have any info/inspo i guess for paint jobs on bikes?

SS with bullhorns. i'm okay with going as obnoxious as possible while still looking nice
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>>1094429
>SS with bullhorns. i'm okay with going as obnoxious as possible
Geat a load of this unique snowflake
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>>1094432
hey man i just think it's fun. for what it's worth its not even an "actual" SS i just didnt have a rear derailleur
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>>1094407
i am looking at $400 for the frame so you tell me. im very noob it would be my first full sus bike
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>>1094451
Just to clarify, we're talking about just the frame right? That's probably cheap for that particular frame being a fancy hand made in Canada jobby, but not a particularly great deal for what it is.
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>>1094371
wiggle and chain reaction are as cheap as you get

their prices often beat the vip/pro deals i got direct from shimano working at a bike shop.
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isn't it strange how many grayscale options there are to colors in many bike helmet products? who wouldn't opt for a fluorescent color?
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>>1094473
people under 50?
florescent colors dont have much of an effect
and colors that are bright, but not florescent, have virtually no significant effect over say, black or grey
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>>1094474
mm, i just found this

http://www.bmj.com/content/328/7444/857

For motorcyclists, but ofc applicable to cyclists as well:

The main colours of helmet reported by control drivers were black (39.8%), white (30.6%), and red (13.8%). Compared with wearing a black helmet, use of a white helmet was associated with a 24% lower risk (multivariate odds ratio 0.76, 0.57 to 0.99). We found similar associations for red and a combined group of yellow and orange helmets, although these did not achieve standard levels of statistical significance. Self nominated description of “light coloured” helmet compared with “dark coloured” helmet was associated with a 19% lower risk.
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>>1094473
Insecure people
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I feel insecure at higher speeds/downhill how do I get good?
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>>1094523
practice, honestly. It just takes nerves and confidence
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>>1094523
Just take it easy down hills. There's no need to go fast. This is how you get faster, since as you get more experience going down hills you get more confidence to go faster.
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I was hit by a truck recently and now my handlebar wraps are all fucked up. I'm planning to do a pretty long tour on my bike so I'd like to replace it with something comfortable. Any suggestions? I've never replaced my grips before so any tips on how to do it would be appreciated as well. I have a fuji touring bike. Thanks!
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Does anyone sell insulated bottles that are all or mostly black?
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took some pics of bike thieves removing tires from ppls bikes. i showed the pics to the police around the corner and he didn't do shit. does this happen everywhere in the states?
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>>1094561
>manlet
>balding
Can't blame him for hating the world
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>>1094557
Elite do their Nanogelite model in black, although it's under a clear outer layer so it's more of a grey and then you have silver text and white bits on the lid.
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>>1094561
The police won't do anything. Buy a gun and take matters into your own hands.
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My original crankset is a 46t so would 44t fit my chain or would 48t?
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>>1094561
Ist that taxi driver?
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>>1094478
I didn't read that, but the people who pick light colored helmets probably worry about safety more, thus drive safer?
I don't think the color matters that much.
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>>1094627
turning on your lights even at day matters a lot more.
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>>1094630
btw you need high contrast, and when your color doesn't contrast with the background it doesn't worth shit.
sometimes black gives the most contrast.
i had an encounter rape field all around in flowers canari yellow everything beside the road. out of nowhere a sports car in the same color shows up in my face. i could have spotted it a mile away if it was black.
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When a GPS cycle computer says it accepts speed sensors, does that mean that it can't do speed without one? Or is the speed just less accurate?

I'm looking at one of these shitters. I ride in a heavily urban area with sometimes heavy tree cover, hills, and high rises, if that makes a difference.

I've used the GPS tracker on my phone but it's fucking terrible. Are bike computers like that to? I'd be switching from a wireless bike computer that is getting raped by my new headlight.
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>>1094632
It should be able to measure speed via GPS alone, it's a rather simple thing to do. However it's very inaccurate at low speeds so if it's a feature you're actually after then get a separate sensor/computer for measuring it.
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How do you ride a bike with a stem lower than your saddle for longer than a mile before you want to stop because you're in so much pain?
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>>1094634
Do you know if the sensor that GPS computers use are susceptible to EMI as might be given off by a badly designed headlight?
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>>1094639
Start with the bars at a barely-uncomfortable height, ride until pain stops, lower stem 1cm. Rinse and repeat until fully slammed.

Also stretch your lower back like a madman
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Bike noob here. I want to make a recumbent trike out of cheap/free Craigslist bikes that probably came from Walmart. Most stuff I googled about Walmart vs bike shop bikes is service-based i.e. tuning, and a bit of quality as in the Walmart bike parts are shit and will break. Seemed to emphasize the tuning part of it though, which I suppose I can learn. I had a couple bikes from Walmart growing up that seemed to do fine in the durability department, shifters didn't always work though (I'm assuming just tuning/lube).

Are they really that much worse? Also, are they much worse mechanical-efficiency wise? Will I see a big efficiency increase with pro sprockets, bearings, both? Or is mainly tuning that makes the difference?
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2006 Reba Sl for guy here. I ordered a new seal and foam ring kit (and even matched the MN from the spare parts catalog) My new foam rings are this small. Is this going to be an issue?
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>>1094696
Yeah that's going to be a problem. What size did you order? Unless you have massive hands that's not 10mm like I told you to get.
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>>1094697
I checked the spare parts catalog and matched the MN numbers. It even says 32mm seal kit.
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>>1094701
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RockShox-32mm-Seal-Kit/192010086108?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
>>
>>1094701
>>1094703
Not all 32mm RS forks have the same thickness foam rings, the description on that listing is wrong. Well, they'll technically work but won't hold as much oil and could potentially get twisted, leading to premature wear. It's up to you whether you want to get thicker ones or not, more money and waiting a bit longer versus getting it done now.
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>>1094706
well fuck me
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>>1094711
I guess I will have to call my LBSs and see if they carry it.
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is commuting with a mountain bike a bad idea?
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I have a question for you guys:

WHY THE FUCK HAVEN'T YOU SWITCHED TO HYDROS YET??? holy shit I put some hydro disc brakes on my mountain bike as an upgrade from v brakes (w/ kool stops) and god damn its like 20x better. Not even the expensive ones either, $30 M396....no more 3 finger breaking for me man
>>
what is the functional difference between a B17 standard versus narrow? all the saddles i have right now are 145mm or less, which are in-line with the B17 narrow. i'm assuming i just buy the narrow, yeah?
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>>1094625
What, as long as the BCD bolt circle diameter is the same you'll be fine
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>>1094523
Keep going, faster, faster! Until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death!
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>>1094531
>>1094523
This, also is your bike fit good? Do you have good brakes? There may be good reasons for your sense of insecurity. Don't listen to "immortal" teenagers when the safety of yourself and others is concerned. A friend of mine got a nice helicopter ride and a month long stay in the ICU due to shitty brakes and a long descent.
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>>1094795
You'll also be going much faster on average by improving your climbs rather than downhill. Just use the time to rest a little and go harder on the flats and gradients.
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>>1094795
i was never stopped by my feeling of insecurity, but i have identified reasons for my unsafe feeling as follows:
>pedals
the right pedal will make the bike feel an integral part of your body, a crap pedal will feel slippery and easy to lose contact with makes for a frightening descent
>brakes
already upgraded them with better disks 180 front and rear, if you don't trust your brakes endurance and power it's not gonna be a safe and dry feeling ripping down
>geometry
adjustable seatpost is the most important thing here, a high seat position feels really unsafe you have less room to move around you can't pump and hop small ditches and obstacles well
the other thing is stem length, but that's more important in the technical aspects i think.
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>>1094753
It depends what your commute is like, but you're going to be losing efficiency from tyres, shocks and aerodynamics.

Tyres can be swapped for slicks, shocks can (probably) be locked out. Some people prefer a more upright position in traffic for field of view etc.

If it's a hardtail and you can put a rack on the back even better.
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Why has every company got to put their shitty logo on everything?

I ordered some normal brown bar tape and it's got logos plastered all over it. Now my bars are going to have hundreds of these logos on it.
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>>1094826
This is the picture when I ordered btw
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>>1094826
>capitalism
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>>1094826
Notice how the logos are all on one side, that's the side you cover when wrapping the bars
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>>1094753
Not necessarily. If it's your only bike then don't feel that you absolutely must have a road bike for commuting. Obviously it will be slower commuting on road (but it also opens up off road shortcuts) so the longer your commute the more time will be wasted. I often commute on my mountain bike as it's my best bike, it's more fun to me, and as mentioned I like to take off road shortcuts.

>>1094754
Congratulations on seeing the light. I always tell people this, the difference between cable and hydraulic is massive. It's not just the power but the feel, consistent and smooth.
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>>1093288
You guys get neck pains (around the bottom part where the shoulder meets the neck) after hour+ rides?
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>>1094948
bike fit issues + http://www.active.com/cycling/articles/exercises-to-treat-shoulder-and-neck-pain-from-cycling
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>>1094948
no i get under my skull
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>>1094953
thanks
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Which lube is best
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>>1094997
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>>1094997
I use gold link
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Thinking of using cloth Handlebar tape. Anything I should be aware of from when you used it?
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why is it so hard to find cheap 126mm+ square taper bottom brackets senpaitachi? largest size the un26 comes in is 122.5mm
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>>1095015
Yes. It's stupid. It doesn't absorb shocks and buzz and it doesn't wrap well. It is also expensive and ugly. Hipsters like it because they're mentally challenged. They also do the equally retarded twine+lacquer seal because they (mistakenly) think it's authentic and traditional, when in reality leather/cloth tape was wrapped top down.

Stick with cork tape. It is objectively superior in ride quality, wear and price. If you don't care about riding and are just chasing some pothead version of aesthetics and tradition that never existed in the first place - save yourself the trouble and stay unwrapped like the coolest kids outside the gelato shop.
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>>1095037
Because triples aren't fashionable anymore
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>>1095037
Would 1.75 mm per side make the chainset interfere with the BB though? If not, accept the lower Q factor as a gift and be happy. From a chainline perspective it is immaterial.
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Had this for at least three years, over 8000km on it (all short trips, no longer than 35km/21 miles each)

I didn't have any significant complaints about pelvis, balls getting numb or anything (short trips anyway) but the one problem is despite the moustache handlebar, I feel like the saddle is too short for me, because with all the adjustments (tilted upwards, pushed to the front) I still feel I'm getting slid forward, and the proof is that green arrow is a tear in the fake leather, it started right from the front and is now going all the way to the middle. Could be I have a terribly sweaty ass but still the tear is right there in the front, it means that's where I mostly sit.

What's a saddle that looks similar but doesn't have the same problem of being too short?
>>
>>1095037
sunlite makes a 68x127 sealed bottom bracket. They are very cheap. I've had some issues with them tho, with cheapy cartridge bearings and cups with bad threads.
>>
>>1095073
Right now I've got some wrap is from the 70s and looks like it just stylized electrical tape, and is about that thick too. I'm replacing the brake levers and I figure anything will be better than what I have now. I also thought a harlequin patter would look pretty cool. Not planning on shellac to twine.
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Why are the strips that come with bar tape that are designed to hold everything tight not even slightly sticky?
>>
>>1095126

Because they literally only serve as a placeholder while you adjust the thing nice and tight (like having someone that holds it with the finger), the lock comes at the end with the plug or the electric tape.
>>
>>1095128
It doesn't say in the instructions you need electrical tape but I guess I'm going to have to get some.
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>>1095131

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MzIiv7pewE

The tape is needed from one side, the plug from the other. You "could" get away with the glue on the tape itself, but it usually doesn't work. You do need the tape because the grip strength on the handlebars will make it move if it's not a very tight fit.
>>
>>1094997
>road rage
>road lube
that sounds multifunctional
>>
Is bottoming out on your suspension bad for it, or is it designed to be treated as such?
>>
>>1095258
It depends on what extent you bottom it out, both a 4 foot drop and a 6 foot drop might bottom out a 120mm fork but the latter it going to transfer more force to the bottom out mechanism (bumper or spring). Forks are designed to bottom out moderately every now and then, if you're doing it constantly or really hard you'll want to look at adjusting your settings or getting a longer travel fork.
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>>1095262
The question is of my rear shock. I couldn't possibly put more pressure into it with the pump that I have, but it still bottoms out from time to time.
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>>1095265
I shouldn't say from time to time, it does so many times on a ride.
>>
>>1095265
Can you add volume spacers or compression damping?
>>
>>1095265
>>1095266
Sorry, I should said fork and/or frame.

By any chance are you trying to use a normal tyre pump on it? A proper shock pump will get it up to 300psi and you won't be bottoming that out multiple time on a ride unless you weigh a shit load and do massive drops that are obviously inappropriate for the amount of travel.

That said you also don't want to be pumping your suspension up much more than is appropriate for your weight (aim for 20-30% sag), that would be a less than ideal solution for bottoming out (the ideal one would be getting more travel).
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>>1095265
Oh yeah and is it actually a shock pump or are you trying to pump it with something else?
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>>1095268
>A proper shock pump will get it up to 300psi
I can't quite get to 250 which is what is recommended.
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>>1095270
So most likely a shock pump then, a track pump won't get anywhere near that. I've never needed to pump anything up that high nor tried it so perhaps it just takes a lot of effort, but then if you're heavy enough to need it that high I would guess you're pretty strong too.

Where did you get that recommendation from? What is your shock, frame, and just how rough is the terrain you're riding?
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>>1095271
It just says "FLOAT FOX" on it.

I got it from the bike store who looked up the charts. 125 for front (which seems to be too much) and 240 for the back (which isn't enough)
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>>1095272
Did they work that out with you sitting on the bike? There are guides for determining the rough pressures based just on weight but they're really not accurate at all, more so with rear shocks, to do it properly you need to be on the bike and adjust the pressure until you get the right amount of suspension sag.

125psi is the max for a lot of forks and even too much for quite a few, typically the people that need that sort of pressure are 230-250 pounds. If that is how much you weigh then 240psi in the rear may not be enough (shocks generally top out at 300psi and again it's the real heavy guys that need close to that pressure).
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>>1095274
>230-250 pounds
That's exactly how much I weigh. They just looked it up online. I guess I'll try to squeeze a few more pounds into the rear.
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>>1095276
>I guess I'll try to squeeze a few more pounds into the rear.
>>
>>1095288
Where did you find a picture of my mother?
>>
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Hello.I have a problem that I noticed about 2 weeks ago I haven't been able to solve it myself.I have a Bachini bike with Shimano gearshifter and dereilleur and 7 gears.However whatever gear I try to put it on it always puts it one gear higher.In the pic I've put it on 4th gear yet the chain is on 5th gear.I've tried taking off the chain and putting it on the correct gear,but it always puts it back on the higher one.Can I fix this myself without some special tools?
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>>1095332
You just have to adjust the derailleur cable. It's possible the housing (the tube around the cable) has slipped out of its holder somewhere

To adjust the cable, you can turn the knob where the housing meets the rear derailleur. It might not have enough range in its turning to fix the problem. In that case, you shift to the smallest cog, turn the knob to middle of its range, and then loosen the screw that holds the cable to the derailleur. Fiddle with it till the derailleur jockey wheels and chain line up (sight from behind) with the smallest cog and then tighten the screw.

Good luck
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>>1095335
ty for the answer
>>
What's a good torque wrench for carbon fiber bikes that isn't an outrageously expensive Park Tool wrench?
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>>1095377
You really want to cheap out on the thing keeping you from breaking your expensive frame?
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>>1095377
Any torsion bar type will be more accurate than a large sprung counterweight variety at lower torques. Topeak makes a good one that costs nearly nothing. Will obviously not do cassette and brake disc lock rings, but all other fittings.
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>>1095380
Just curious to see if there were better deals than Park Tool
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>>1095377
$80-$90 on sale
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>>1095384
>>1095381
This is $15 or something and way more accurate than a tool of that type that isnt regularly calibrated.
>>
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So I'm going to get the stuff for a pair of wheels to be made, and these are the listed spoke lengths on the DT Swiss calculator.

However the options to buy are all in 2 mm increments, for this exampls, 284, 286, 288.

I seem to recall reading you should go shorter, not longer, but what's the correct answer here?


>>1095377
The wiggle in-house brand on is quite inexpensive.
>>
>>1095388
>I seem to recall reading you should go shorter, not longer, but what's the correct answer here?
With a double wall rim it is better if the spokes stick up a bit from the nipple than if they're too short and don't support the nipple head properly.
With a single wall rim (that barely exist in the first world) there is a danger of a spoke and working its way through the tape and tube - with time.

That said, having long spokes run the risk of the gang bottoming out and you twisting the spoke and/or damaging a portion of the nipple gang - weakening the hold, damaging the spoke through torsion and issues of spoke tension.
Spokes too short may not stretch in the gangs enough to lock and lose spoke tension over time. Spokes should be the correct length. It's _usually_ better to round up, but not always. I've also found that many spoke calculators tend to en up a bit short.

I hope that complicated things for you. :)
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>>1095377
this same one is sold under many brand names and is about $45
>>
What's wrong with my bike fit if my dick falls asleep when sitting for more than 4 minutes?
>>
>>1095402
Saddle position, type or shape.
>>
>>1095404
I tried every fore/aft possible and was conscious about sitting my sit bones, but it didn't matter.
>>
>>1095408
try lowering the nose a bit.
a very small amount can make a huge difference.
>>
>>1095408
>type or shape of penis
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>>1095402
Does your saddle have a cutout or a hole? I tried to ``upgrade" the saddles on my bikes (from ones with cutout/groove to flat) and ended up with a sore taint after riding much more than an hour, no matter what saddle tilt I tried.

>>1095398
That's interesting information, thanks. I assume you can't just cut down spoke either?
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>>1095416
>I assume you can't just cut down spoke either?
Nope. Unless it's straight gauge and you have a press to roll new gang, but I'd find that terribly unlikely. Sheldon used to shill such a device. But who'd want straight gauge anyway?
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>>1095411
I'll try that, thanks.

>>1095416
No, it's flat and hard.
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>>1094754
Do you know how much drop bar hydro levers and drivetrain that works with them costs? Once the price comes down to something reasonable I'll be getting some.
Also on flat bars the difference between well set up mechanicals and basic hydros isn't that big. But I do have hydros on my MTB.

>>1094762
It would depend on how leaned over you ride and how big your ass is.

>>1094753
Not bad for shorter distances.
>>
>>1095471
> the difference between well set up mechanicals and basic hydros isn't that big
Excluding proper dual piston cable calipers (because who would buy them when hydros are the same price or cheaper) the difference is massive. Cables feel like shit in comparison (I suppose some really high end cables might be adequate, but then that's just more money that could go towards hydros) and are inconsistent both front and rear and over time. Also single piston calipers are a pain in the arse to set up correctly and they don't stay that way very long requiring constant adjustment.

If you've got drop bars then cable discs are understandable, but they're inexcusable on a flat bar bike.
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>>1095483
>(because who would buy them when hydros are the same price or cheaper)

Comparing cable STIs + a pair of spyres the cost is roughly half of an equivlaent hydro setup

but I guess you're talking about mtb land
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>>1095489
Yes I'm talking about flat bars.
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>>1095288
totally would
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Best bang for buck 29er MTB tires? Go.
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Is Trump not giving them VISAs or something? What gives, man. They claim August but not a peep, not even a preorder or pricing or anything.
>>
>>1095570
Canyons are so fucking sexy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vWrWQ-srZc
I want one of these.
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How catastrophic is the damage on this tire sidewall? These marks run about half of the tire on one side from brake run after a crash making the wheel untrue
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>>1095631
Doesn't look that bad, the inner tube isn't even bulging out. Although, I'd expect it to wear out on a ride....
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>>1095631
I'd change it soon as you can.
>>
Where's a good place on the web to shop jerseys? Not looking for anything too expensive and I don't have any confidence on those cheap Chinese jerseys.
>>
>>1095639
obviously getting the /n/ jersey, duh
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>>1095641
Oh yes the prospect of getting dropped with the get rekt in the back of the Jersey is really something I'd look forward to experiencing.
>>
>>1095639
Pearl Izumi
>>
I just got a new pair of Odyssey Grandstand pedals, but the axle feels kinda tight, will this eventually loosen or should I try to open them up to adjust the bearing tighness?
>>
>>1095639
Where do you live. It (usually) doesn't make sense to shop from USA to EU and vice versa.
>>
>>1095826
They'll probably wear and loosen up quicker as they don't use traditional ball bearings, instead they have two angled bushings that slide against each other. You can however loosen them up if you want (the same way you'd tighten them to compensate for wear), remove the cap on the outside of the pedal and loosen the nut inside.
>>
Just spent $830 on a ($1050) bike, what accessories should I look at getting? Anything aside from the obvious lights, bottle cage etc?
>>
>>1095841
Pedals, lol.

Hard to tell without knowing what you are using it for. But for anybike you would want to at least have a multitool and a pump
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>>1095841
Depends on your riding conditions and what you'll be using it for
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>>1095838
I'll just leave them and see, thanks guy
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so i tinkered with my rockshox reverb a bit and accidentally spilt a few drops of the fluid inside the cables. apparently it's not some harmless oil but a cancerous toxic substance that can "damage all bike components" according to their video.

how much fucked i am if it got on the tires? after a few hours i just sprayed every surface i thought might have got some with isopropyl alcohol. even the wet looking patches on the tire.
>>
>>1095865
it's 2.5wt hydraulic fluid btw.
>>
>>1095865
It'll be fine, it's just suspension oil so pretty harmless. Just keep it away from the brake rotors and calipers.
>>
>>1095849
>>1095852
Work commuting 90% of the time. It's a hybrid, heavily on the road bike side though.
>>
>>1095873
Oh and fairly shitty riding conditions because UK roads, but still mostly roads
>>
>>1095868
at least it doesn't appear to have organophosphates in it.
>>
>>1095875
I meant it's harmless to the bike, it's not going to strip paint or eat plastics. Obviously you don't want to be drinking that shit and leaving it on your skin for extended periods probably isn't a good idea either.
>>
okay, so i finally got my reverb to work, i might have to bleed some bubbles out of it, but i could at least push it down and it came back up.

now what happened is they said do not exceed 6-7nm on the seat clam, so i tightened it to 6nm and thought alright that's safe enough right?

what happened is the seatpost did not fully extend unless i dropped the torque under 4nm on the clamp. is this shit normal?
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>>1095883
*6.7nm damn
>>
>>1095883
Could be that your torque wrench isn't accurate, you're using it wrong, the bolt is particularly slippy (did you put grease or anti-seize on it) lowering the amount of torque required to get a certain clamping force, something isn't round and is deforming the seat post (seat tube or clamp could be ovalised, or something in between the seat tube and seat post), or if you've disassembled the post you may have put something in wrong that is binding when the post is compressed by the clamp. There may be other causes but that's all I could think of.
>>
>>1095874
spare tube & pump and keep the extra money no need to spend it nice bargain
>>
>>1095892
i did put grease on the bolt yes got if thx!
>>
>>1095904
That could very well be it then. As long as the post doesn't slip it's fine, if it does then you could try putting some friction paste on it.
>>
>>1095873
Mudguards. Haters gonna hate, but at least you won't be covered in crap.
>>
>>1095909
i put friction paste on the seatpost. i think i will let out the torque until i feel absolutely smooth action from the reverb. if it doezn't slip it stays there.

would getting a wider clamp help if i get slips at 3nm or lower?
>>
>>1095920
I suppose it could. What would help most is one of those clamps that extends above the seat tube so it clamps on the actual post as well, Rockshox actually makes them.
>>
>>1095920
>would getting a wider clamp help if i get slips at 3nm or lower?
New anon here.
Possibly. Or rather, as the pressure is distributed over a larger area you could probably go up in torque and seat post grip without deforming the post.

Also, check what type clamp you have. Some clamps have a top lip that extends over the seat tube material and grips directly at the post. This lip is very thin and would transfer tremendous pressure directly onto the seatposts outer sheath on a tiny area. That's where I'd start troubleshooting.

If you can get a piece of paper inbetween the clamp and the post all the way around you're good. If you can't, you will want to file the clamps lip down a bit.
>>
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Hi guys. I know nothing about bikes, but this girl I'm crushing on at work wants me to do a 15k with her later this month. This bike good for the price?
>>
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whats this kind of bolt called? i have an old 70s road bike that looks similar to this but i want to configure my bike like this instead of using the screw and nut it originally came with
>>
>>1095922
checked it it is far from touching the actual post i could easily get in a couple of sheets if i wanted to.

now i'm beginning to think the problem is my frame is not perfectly round and or the clamp is not tightening to perfectly round causing the issue.

i have reduced the torque to 3nm and have experienced absolutely no slowing of the saddle on the way up.

any chance i shortened the lifespan of the reverb with the over-torquing? they stated 6.7nm as an upper limit but i assume that is only on a perfectly even clamp.
>>
So I've just lost the sensor unit from my wireless Incite 9i.
No big deal, I'll just get another?
Nope.

It looks like they don't make them any more.
I never did like the wireless part either.

Anybody have a recommendation for a wired speedometer?
The 9i had all the features I cared about: speed, trip, odo, and thermometer.
>>
>>1095883
>>1095892
>>1095922
i realized something after a bit of research it hit me as i tried to explain this to a colleague:

the torque value is meaningless on itself to clamp force and friction. sure enough the surface qualities matter a lot friction paste vs grease and all, but the most important aspect is the clamp itself.

the offset of the screw from the side of the seat-post is the most significant factor in clamp force for torque and it's fucking nonstandard as far as i can tell. so basically the torque recommendations and all personal experience go out the window in this case.
>>
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Is anybody here using a app for intervall training ?
if so , what app ?
>>
For a carbon handle bar and aluminum stem, do I still used fiber grip on the bars when installing?
>>
>>1096106
Yes
>>
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>Started cycling
>See people having a beer after a ride
>Start doing the same
>Uped it to two - three beers
>Worried I'm going to lose my fitness

I have a daily calorie intake of around 2900 and as it stands I'm not getting anywhere near that. If I do 20-40+ miles 5-6 days a week at a decent pace (17+ MPH) and I have 2-3 beers every day I shouldn't have to worry about getting chunky as long as I keep the riding up right?

I really love how lean I've become, even been complemented on it by a bike shop employee doing a bike fit (maybe it was weird) and I also really like drinking.

Pic not my bike but maybe one day I'll own one.
>>
>>1096535
You're not going to lose your fitness per se but liquid calories add up quick. You might be surprised how long cycling it takes to actually burn off one of those beers.
>>
both of my rims just died, and need rebuilt or replaced. I have Deore XT hub on rear and replaceable junk on front, and neither rim was high end really. I don't know anything about this, so I'll be taking it to the bike shop. what aspects do i need to worry about? Is rear hub worth being salvaged and paying for labor costs or should I just buy prebuilt wheels?
>>
>>1096897
The rear hub isn't going to be worth much, probably less than the labour cost of getting a new wheel built onto it. Just get a new complete set and that way you have nice new bearings.
>>
Generally how long do you wait after a big meal before going on a ride ? An hour or two or even longer ? thanks
>>
i want to buy a steel quill stem for an early 90s road bike.
26.0 ritchey force stems are very rare.
how much should I be concerned about the sizing? I see some "25.8" and "25.4" stems on ebay, but they're steel, so it's okay to flex it right?
>>
I have 16 year old mountain bike. It is in sort of decent shape because I wasn't using it that much.
Apparently turns out that I cannot install a bike rack on rear of my bike or at least it isn't possible to use racks from other bikes, but I want to raise to have possibility to put hings onto it, for bike packing purposes.

Anybody was remaking MTBs for more luggage capacity? Any tips?
>>
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Any guides/tips for buying a quick release chain link/chains in general? Google is giving me guides on how to use them/replace them not how to buy them.

>How do I check my chain size?
>Where should I buy chains/quick release links from? Is ebay too dodgy?
>>
I made a new thread and asked for help answering unaddressed questions.

>>1097622

>>1097622

>>1097622
>>
>>1097605
Ebay should be fine, it's not really something that would be worth making fakes of, but you can also get them on most cycling sites. Your chain size will depend on how many gears you have in the back, certain sizes are shared across multiple amounts but 9, 10, 11, and 12 all have their own size. Links are compatible across all chains of a certain size regardless of make, so you could put that Shimano link on a SRAM chain for example.
>>
My bike keeps getting punctures, it's beyond frustrating. I just want to ride my bike. What's causing it? I've been thinking of buying puncture-proof tires, the kind filled with foam, anyone have experience with those?
>>
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Whats a good road bike to start out with to get into cycling I want to try and compete
Thread posts: 330
Thread images: 58


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