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Wide handlebar upgrade on a older bike

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Thread replies: 15
Thread images: 5

File: handlb.png (109KB, 942x514px) Image search: [Google]
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Hey guys, looking for opinions.

I have a late 90's/early 2000's specialized rockhopper as my entry level beater to cut my teeth on the trails. However, to get the most out of my bike I'm thinking about upgrading some of the parts to make it a bit more capable. One of the upgrades i want is wider handlebars. Is this upgrade worth it on a older bike, or am i better off just using it as is with the older style narrow bars until I switch over to something newer?

Pic related, what I was going to order.
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>>1081008
Here's a pic of the bike as I bought it for reference. Not pictured are some race face chester flat pedals and a new seat, as well as a shitload of mud from my last ride.
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File: WP_20160425_20_02_15_Pro.jpg (2MB, 3264x1840px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1081008
Yes get them- it prob has tiny ass bars on it. if 720 is too wide you can cut them. Consider a shorter stem as well. I put some 640s on my old bike and they are still too narrow compared to a modern bike.
>>
Wider bars and a shorter stem will significantly change the way the bike handle, in a good way.
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The right fit for your needs is never a bad choice. Just make sure the clamp radius and bar radius match your stem and shifter parts. Replace stem as well if needed.
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>>1081008
You can get a new take off for less than $27. You will most likely need a new stem also. Probably something in the 70/65MM range.
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>>1081034
Not on 90's mtb geometry with a 120mm stem...
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>>1081044
what are the downsides of replacing the current stem (seen in the pic above) with a short stem and a 1.25" x 720mm risen handlebar?
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>>1081044
As I said, fit a shorter stem as well.

>>1081048
There aren't really any downsides. Wider bars will give you more leverage and the shorter stem will put you more upright and shift weight backwards making it easier to lift the front wheel. Also steering will be more "direct" and less like steering a boat. If you don't change the stem you'll still get the greater leverage but the steering will be slower (as your hands have to move a further distance) and a shorter stem counteracts that.
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>>1081048
I'd suggest getting something more like 760mm if you can find one in the same price range, that's what a lot of people of average build use and you can always cut it down if needed.

Also as you shorten the stem you'll get less rise all the way down to 0 rise at about 50mm or shorter so you'll probably want to get a bar with a decent amount of rise.
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>>1081051
This is what i'm looking at buying, thanks to your guys' input. Short stem, 1 1/2" rise on a long handlebar.
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File: 20170612_202644.jpg (4MB, 3360x2121px) Image search: [Google]
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I've been wanting to upgrade my cockpit.
Could you guys help on choosing the right size stem and bars for my bike?
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>>1081087
It's largely down to personal preference but the general trend is wide bars and short stems, so try something wider and shorter than what you currently have. It's probably best to try a middle ground between the shortest and widest you could go which is around 35mm and 800mm, so take the difference and divide it in half for something to aim for.
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>>1081096
I used to own a Kona 134 dl with a 40mm stem and 760mm bars.
Should I get a 60mm stem and 760mm and cut it if it feels too big because of the difference in geometry?
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>>1081101
If you're fine with cutting bars down you could even get something in the 780-800mm range. You could start off with them at the widest and move your grips and brakes in incrementally (you don't even have to cut the excess off right away) until you get the perfect fit. 50-60mm is probably a good stem length, 30-40mm is more suited to frames designed for them with longer top tubes so would probably feel too cramped if your current length is comfortable.
Thread posts: 15
Thread images: 5


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