/bqg/ - Bike Questions General

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does anyone have that cockpit image of the guy who inverted the old scott drop bars for his touring bike? I think he had rholoffs on the top. Can't find the image but it was fucking genius.

Pic related, those stupid old drops with the secondary flat section.

How do people lock their bikes when they have quick releases on both wheels? 2 locks, or taking the front wheel off and locking together with the back wheel?

>>1074915
We don't leave their bike outside with the plebs. Take it inside, where valuables belong. Other than that, you always lock the rear wheel together with the frame no matter what type of wheel fixings you have.

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>>1074734
this one?

>>1074915
u-lock through frame, plus a cable lock through the wheels

I had an imbalanced wheel, took the tyre off, pulled the inner tube out and found that there is water and something semi-hard and squishy inside it.
When I let out air it smells foul so I think there's some bacterial colony living there. I'm very tempted to slice it open and see what's inside.
Should I cut it open? And also what the fuck, how does something like that happen? I know it wasn't someone's idea of a practical joke.

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>>1074948
Someone has once used a puncture sealer. Pic related. They smell ... interesting. The squishy thing is a globule of latex granules. Commonly called boogers when running tubeless.

When the weather turns wet, is there a better method of staying dry than this:
- Latex gloves under gloves (already packed for mechanicals)
- Waterproof helmet cover
- Waterproof jacket
- Waterproof over-trousers
- Waterproof over-shoes.

And how do you avoid getting sweaty as hell from being in a plastic bag?


>>1074915
Personally I use a d-lock to hold rear wheel to a rack or post through the rear triangle and a chain to hold the front wheel and frame to the rack.
Always insure your bike if you leave it outside, even just to head into shops, I use cyclesure. At very least, insuring your bike will let you know what lock standards they are willing to risk for the value of your bike for your area.

I got a flat today, patched it up and kept going.

Now there are two punctures on the exterior of my front tire. One is L-shaped and about 1-2mm in length. The other is a small circle, like someone stuck a pin into the tire.

Do I need to replace my tire now, or is it safe to keep running it with those two little holes? Last thing I want is a blowout on a fast descent.

This is a month-old Conti GP4000S2. It will cost me dearly to replace it, but I will if I have to .

>>1075067
If it isn´t cold getting wet isn´t that bad. A light rain jacket is enough to keep the worst Better ones have strategically placed ventilation holes built in, so you don´t get that sweaty in them.

Head, legs and arms just get wet. Maybe bring spare shorts + socks for longer rides so you can change into dry stuff when you are getting uncomfortable.

If its cold, then things get complicated. Your method is probably the best one, but the goal should be to keep your body temperature at comfy levels, not to stay 100% dry. So if you are getting hot and sweaty loose some clothes even if it means parts of you will get wet.

Imho the best way to stay safe on long rides in cold weather is to have lots of warm, dry clothes safely hidden away in your panniers. That way you can always balance your clothing to keep your body at the perfect temperature level.

>>1075070
Impossible to tell without pics, but if it's mostly a gash in the rubber with a prick in the cord then it's fine. The rubber isn't a structural component. The cord is, and it's pretty resilient. If it's a big slash lengthwise through the cord then you might want to replace it. What did you hit?

How do I clean the chain and all the stuff it touches. It has never been cleaned, everything is black and almost dry.
Is it possible without having to remove anything, I definitly don't know how to break down a bike.

>>1075120
I've given up on trying to get my chain and gears really clean as it is unnecessary and not worth the effort. The only way to get all the gunk out of the chain rollers is to remove the chain and soak it, otherwise surface cleaning with a solvent will gradually draw more of it out so you never really get to a clean state. Removing the chain makes cleaning the deraiileur and chainrings easier. The cassette also needs to come off to get it totally clean.

To get things decently clean a stiff brush and this ropey stuff called Gear Floss will get you most of the way there. It would be a good idea to have a drop cloth for under the bike while cleaning it. The brush knocks a lot of oil soaked dirt to the floor which will leave black streaks if you walk in it and track it around.

>>1075120
Drench it all in WD-40, let it soak, drench it again and the let the worst drip off, keep going until the can is empty, get at it with washing up liquid or citrus degreaser, rinse thoroughly and let dry over night. Oil the chain at least twice and wipe it off.

You wont get it all and with the cost of WD-40, degreaser and time and effort involved - all to salvage the last few miles of a drivetrain that might already be quite worn - it might or might not actually be worth it compared to buying a new chain and cassette. But then you need a few tools and YT videos.

>>1074711
This is probably a silly question but:
One of my tires is pockmarked and unsafe, and I'm deciding to go slightly wider (25 from 23) but my shop only had one of the 25s in stock today, is there any inherent risk to riding with mismatched tire widths?

>>1074915
cable the tires together through the frame, ulock the the frame and back tire to whatever anchor is nearby. Bring them in if the bike is going to be exposed for more than a half hour or so.

>>1075197
no extra risk at all

>>1075199
I thought so, but sometimes I just need to ask a dumb question.

is there a adapter for a 15mm tru axel wheel to fit in a 12mm fork ?

alternativley are there any budget priced 650b weels in 100 x12 142 x 12 ?

>>1075205
Do you mean 20mm? I've never heard of a 12mm axle up front, only in the rear. Some hubs can be adapted to take 20mm axles directly (replaceable end caps), I would imagine there's some sort of adapter sleeve that exists too as it would just be a simple tube with a 2.5mm wall thickness.

trying to find the video of the sprint caleb does at 00:49 in this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBd1RjQrd38

i know its really short but ive seen another version a bit longer, think one without the slomo, anyone? thanks!

>>1074938
That's the one, thanks.

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Lots of division among brooks owners as to proper break-in and conditioning.

I've had a Flyer for 3 years now, several thousand miles and it's still practically the same as the day I got it.

Never used proofide(which supposedly is just a protectant anyway) but around 300 miles I did the tinfoil wrap with linseed oil. Doesn't seem like it did shit. Considering using mink oil or even 10w30, but I've read that it over-softens. Any experience?

>>1074915
You can also get special locks for your wheels. Pinheadlocks has a range of them, some are keyed and such and are the entire thing, while others are little attachments that stop the quick release lever being pulled.

I'd consider it if you're tired of having to thread cable through your wheel or remove it every time you stop.

>>1075275
Try Obenauf

>>1075208

thanks for the input.
12mm is the new road tru axle standart.
I'ld like to so how big I can go with with a 650b wheelset.
mostly out of curiosity.

I feel like the sleeve thing should work also but I'm not sure and I haven't seen a suitable sleeve

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>>1075067

full fenders
wool t-shirt
rain jacket
shorts
water shoes like pic related

clothes in backpack. shoes left at work

the shoes have a hard sole and are p sweet for rain riding imho. the sole is mesh though, annoying feel. These + pinned flats is almost too much grip. The stuff they are made out of is super grippy

It just seems easier to get soaked from the waist-down, and then change at work.

>>1075166

That's a shitload of work. I've heard the oldfags at bikeforums say you'll shorten chain life because "there's oil in them pins"

But I have soaked chains in simple green + water and they're clean AF afterwards

I'd say to you guys: try a few different lubes

>>1075197

this might be of interest
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/mismatch/

>>1074915

You can get "locking" skewers on ebay that open with allen/hex wrenches. They don't actually lock but I've never had anyone try to steal them in Philadelphia. Average thief is an opportunist fuck up who doesn't carry hex wrenches. OFC if your wheels are worth $$$ I'd go pitlock

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Just a random ass question: what is the difference between a "town bike" and a "roadster"? Or are these just two words for the same thing?

Same bike, different backgrounds? Same bike, merely different words?

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>>1075358

Can't give you a definite answer, but I bet:

1. the word roadster was used for bikes like pic related -- back in the old days when the typical road bike hadn't been created yet

2. due to visual similarity the term roadster is a vague idea and is being re-used for townie bikes

3. Or it could just mean a townie-ish bike with slightly more aggressive riding position

The townie genre isn't clearly defined to begin with - where does townie end and beach cruiser begin - so it's hard to say for sure

>>1075138
>>1075166
Ok so I tried cleaning it today. Did my best to remove oil and have everything clean with a brush and degreaser. Put on new oil then.
Took a quick ride around, I guess it looks ok, and at least doesn't sound like dying kittens anymore.

>>1075442
Wipe it down after riding, there'll be some black sludge coming out still

hey, ive gotten a new set of cranks from my friend, witch came off a bike with a "
Race Face BSA, for 2 pc., 73mm shell" bottom bracket
and currently i have a "SR Suntour Cartridge BB" bottom bracked
would i be able to use the race face bracket in my frame? or are bottom brackets made for the frame it self?

>>1075501
the crankset is "Race Face Effect, BSA BB, 24mm spindle, 30T direct mount ring"

what would i need to search to but a bottom bracket that fits that? if my local dealer dosnt have the race face bracket

>>1075504
Pretty much any bottom bracket designed for a 24mm axle will work including Shimano Hollowtech and stuff from Hope and Chris King. Your dealer should be able to sort you out.

Thinking of converting from Cati's to V brakes on my 90's rigid.

Does this 24.99$ include everything? Will I regret the purchase? I would re use my current coolstop pads.

>>1075569
oh shit, http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEKTRO-FRONT-REAR-BRAKE-SET-LINEAR-V-WITH-LEVERS-CABLES-NOODLES-RUBBER-BOOTS-/172668889109?hash=item2833de2815:g:oEsAAOSwONBZEzY4

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one more why not?

"TEKTRO FRONT & REAR BRAKE SET LINEAR-V WITH LEVERS,CABLES, NOODLES, RUBBER BOOTS"

>>1075571
or should I pay three times as much for shimano? Doesn't seem worth it but idk.

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Is it better to have a slightly undersized frame when converting an old steel mtb for touring?
Pic related, can buy one just like it tmrw for 40usd but it's a 19.5" and I usually ride a 21"

Weird question, Has anyone ever had a hemorrhoid disappear, I started riding heavy about 2 months ago and had that fucker go into remission and disappear. Im happy, just thought this fucker would last forever, and assumed cycling would make it worst.

>>1075602
that's actually pretty weird. I've had hems caused from centuries but never had one work it's way out. Maybe it was just it's time.

>>1075603
I know, I do not understand, I rode 3 (100K's) and a century this month.
I have had this hem for over 2 years, and all of the sudden poof. The only thing im doing different is taking lots of hot baths with epson after rides.

>>1075067
>When the weather turns wet, is there a better method of staying dry than this:
Naked. That way you don't have any wet clothes to worry about.

>>1075120
This guy >>1075166 is a fucking moron. Do not use WD40 on bicycles. Use bicycle-specific solvent/degreaser.
>>1075197
If you have a 23 and a 25, ride the 25 in front, 23 in back. Always best to have wider in front if they aren't the same.

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>>1075572
>shimano

>>1075608
wd40 is a perfectly acceptable solvent for cleaning chains, but not for lubricating them. So long as all that shit's cleaned out(as recommended in >>1075166) before applying an appropriate lubricant wd40 works fucking great. Shut the fuck up and/or read whatever you're criticizing you stupid cunt.

>>1075608
>If you have a 23 and a 25, ride the 25 in front, 23 in back. Always best to have wider in front if they aren't the same.
Rear wheel gets more weight. Wider tires handle greater loads better. Narrower tire is slightly more aero so better for the front. This is better for optimizing a balance of weight, tire pressures, comfort and aero and makes more sense when trying to consider the strengths and weaknesses of wide and narrow tires.

The only time a wider tire up front is better is if you feel the narrow tire is inadequate, and you want a bigger contact patch up front and would rather have the better suspension from the wider tire up front. In that case the deficiencies of the overly narrow tire won't be as bad in the rear, but you will be running an extreme pressure differential and you really want a wider rear tire, you just can't afford it. This approach is more based around putting the inadequate narrow tire where you think it will do the least harm.

>>1075618
This, big advantage of WD-40 as a solvent is it leaves oil residue, instead of water residue. Water rusts chains. WD-40 displaces water and keeps the chain free of water so no water gets trapped in the rollers when you lube the chain.

It also has plenty of other uses on a bike, like freeing up shifters, freehubs/freewheel ratchets, or if you have to, quickly lubricating cables and pivots because it is very thin, the solvent breaks down gummed up grease, and it leaves a light oil instead of gummed up grease.

are there any 42mm or smaller knobby tires out there in 650b?
not super knobby , something like the raceking

>>1075632
Gravelkings?

I had a bad accident going downhill and now I'm afraid to go mildly fast downhill, as well as taking closed turns. If I think I'm going too fast or that the turn is too closed (which sometimes is totally fake), I will use the break. Even in routes I've known for a long time.

I wasn't like this before and it has taken away part of the enjoyment of riding. Did it happen to you too? Did you get over it? How?

>>1075641
I think there is only the slick one in 650b.
There is a conti x-king 2.0. X-king is known for being stupidly undersized, so maybe this is a option?

>>1075641

I was thinking a bit more knobby , I would call gravelkings semislicks.

thanks anyway

>>1075695
Just keep riding and you'll get your confidence back eventually.
For me it also helps to think WHY I crashed and how would I avoid it in the future. So far the answer has always been some kind of riding error, nothing to do with a specific route or such.

Help me choose new tires, /n/

Continental Super Sport Plus
or
Vittoria Rubino G+Isotech
or
Schwalbe Durano Performance

all three options are wired bead, 622-25

I know rubinos will be a bit faster but how long will they last? i brake gently except for emergencies (every 150km or so) will I be able to get at least 7k km out of them?

>>1075582
what kind of bars are you thinking? How long is the stem(approximately and how tall are you?

a longer wheelbase is better for loaded touring of course, but the diffeence between 19.5 and 21 will be minor

>>1075756
>help me choose between these arbitrarily chosen shit tyres because i obviously want the best worst tyre there is
Why would I bother?

>>1075756
Why would wire bead Rubinos be faster than anything? Rubino wire bead are only 60 TPI.

>>1075625
>>1075618

I don't think you guys are right about WD-40

I've heard:
It's a solvent. It stays on the chain. The lube you put on afterwards will slough off, and you'll be seeing rust early.

I really don't give a fuck though, I usually throw out chains way early, so do whatever you think is right

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>>1075632

Soma

http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/cazadero-tires-700c650b-x-42mm

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>>1075632

Surly

http://surlybikes.com/parts/tires/knard_650b

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>>1075632

Schwalbe

https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_cross_hs470

>>1075794
>I've heard:
You're wrong. What you've heard applies somewhat to degreasers if not washed of. WD-40 is a volatile solvent. Stop repeating shit you don't understand and didn't quite catch - and fuck off, kindly.

>>1075756
>Vittoria Rubino G+Isotech

Here's a tip: Get on ebay and buy some Rubino Pro's for $20 each.

They are 120 tpi and better than everything you've listed. They last okay and will increase your enjoyment over 60tpi by 100%

>>1075801
>You're wrong. What you've heard applies somewhat to degreasers if not washed of. WD-40 is a volatile solvent. Stop repeating shit you don't understand and didn't quite catch - and fuck off, kindly.

I'm sorry about your childhood

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>>1075806
>calls others a moron while being wrong
>projects his bad childhood when corrected and told to git
Laughable m80

>>1075807

You need to go back and read my post if you think that's true. Seek help

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>>1075818
>seek help
Not even the guy you're arguing with, but this smugness makes me want to pic related you

I'm just beginning cycling, and am not in the greatest shape, but not completely unhealthy. I can go for an hour ride at roughly 15-20km an hour comfortably. I plan on doing a 3 day, 315km tour in roughly one month. How crazy is this? Is it realistic to be able to reach that level in one month? I'm planning on cycling at least one hour every day to prepare for it. Will this be enough?

>>1075828
Sure. As long as your bike is comfortable and you don't push yourself too much, 100km a day should be a breeze. Get a proper fit, get a saddle that matches your butt, get your bike in tiptop shape, and ride at a comfortable cadence. Good luck.

Michelin Lithion 2 or Vittoria Rubino Pro?

>>1075838
Thank you! The bike I have right now is amazing. And the seat is as if it was custom contoured to my butt.

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>>1075757
I'm 187cm / 6'2" with a 35" inseam. Will be applying moustache bars that have a lot of reach. Nashbar moustache bars, picrelated.

>>1075846
Great, you're all set then. Remember to carry enough water and snack on a little something every 30 minutes or so.

>>1075874
What do you recommend? Not him but I only went biking the other day for a few hours and got terribly ill from hunger.

>>1075879
bananas, granola bars, candy bars, gas station burritos. Pretty much anything cheap, plentiful, dense, roughly the shape of a cock that you can fit in your jersey pocket. Nuts are also pretty good, but you really only need to worry about calories/ounce on extensive multi-week tours.

>>1075882
>jersey pocket
come on lad, i'm not that gay.

>>1075884
You might feel like it after 3 metrics in a row, m8.

are there any realibale and cheap gps trackers out here ?

my flatmates bike has been stolen yesterday and now I'm worried.

>>1075915
Thieves will just take off the GPS tracker. Get a better lock.
Skewer locks can help keep the wheels on, seatpost locks too.

Better to record the serial number of your bike + make + model so if it turns up the police can return it to you.

>>1075915
>>1075916
This, or just have the shittiest looking bike on the rack. If you live in a high-crime area with a nice bike and lock up outside you're a fucking retard anyway. Keep your nice bike inside and your shitty $150 townie locked up well outside.

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Would this be a good upgrade over an old long travel Indy C?

https://www.amazon.com/SR-SUNTOUR-Mountain-Bike-Disc/dp/B00K2PFMI8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495784907&sr=8-2&keywords=26%2Bsuspension%2Bfork&th=1&psc=1

What do you guys have set up to be visible for night rides? Got my first bike and I'm looking for lights, reflectors, whatever. Does aliexpress have anything worthwhile or just stick to amazon and such?

>>1075924
Ali has decent enough stuff. It either shines or it doesn't.
Night riding is visibility, and being lit up.
The front light is important so drivers can see you coming as they go through turnings. I bought a 200lumen from ali and it works just fine, nice and bright. Least to 200lumen.
Road.cc has a shitton of advice for everything but nighttime riding can be boiled down to: Lights.

>>1075924
I have bought a nice 900Lu usb setup a while ago but after a decade of building up to it am still using every single piece of light I have. Keep adding to your arsenal and keep your batteries charged. Get reflective tape and properly mount your stock reflectors, they're the best defense when it comes down to visibility. Get a vest, or if you think that's too dorky get a triangle belt. Dorky as all hell but will keep you alive.

https://www.amazon.com/Bud-8512A-Jogalite-Reflective-Symbol/dp/B0006IW554

There are cheaper ones but do your own research.

>>1075865
then it should be just fine, you'll slide the seat back in the rails and the quill stem will give you easy bar height adjustment. just place the brake levers further out than in the picture so you can grab on to the hoods when climbing

enjoy your touring!

P.S.: just bear in mind minimum insert depth of seatpost and stem - there should be markings on their tubes

>>1075783
>>1075805

ok, ill probably stick to Vittoria Rubino Folding (non-G)

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I had Mavic Module 3 SPB rim in front today and after the bad part of the road on descent, had 2 signficant bents on the rim Ill have to tru, the rim is so soft, barely made it down...

What 36h, box profile rim do you recommend?

>>1075884
>it's so gay to have cycling clothes that don't flap around, are breathable, have a full zipper and three back pockets
Damn those comfortable faggots!

bent solid rear axle, order new one, arrives bent. wtf /n/?

The grips on my mtb slip and slide around the handlebar when riding. It's a pretty new stock build bike.
I know I could get lock on grips, but surely the normal grips should stay put too?
I have read about using hairspray, but I dont want to buy it just for this one time use...

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https://youtu.be/1B2bu8uHyMc?t=1m43s
>Don't use the highest gear
Noob cyclist here, I live in flatsville and have been almost exclusively in top gear for the 300 miles I've accumulated.

I even wish I had higher gears. I'm not pleased.

>>1076125
Sorry, the question is: do I really have to avoid top gear? I'm riding a $300 bike.

>>1076125
no, you don't have to avoid "top gear" assuming you mean outer/biggest chainring and the smallest gear on the cassette. I may be missunderstanding but you should brush up on cross-chaining for the sake of your drivetrain. The cost of your bike has little to do with the quality of it, by the way. A used $300 bike from the 80s(assuming it's been decently maintained) is typically mechanically 'better' than any brand new $300 bike.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24vfX2PtSMM

Is it normal for cleat bolts to fall out randomly?

I just noticed I was missing the front bolt on my unclipping foot the other day and replaced it only to have another one fall out and disappear tonight.

>>1076140
Are you using grease/loctite/torque-wrench?

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I just bought an old road bike for 80 bucks. Should I change these jockey wheels?

>>1076142
Yes

>>1076140
It happens, that's why most of the time when you buy a set of replacement cleats the bolts come pre-dabbed with locktite.

>>1076119
>don't want to buy for one time use
Surely somebody you know in your life uses hairspray...

>>1076141
>>1076144
Fug, I didn't use loctite because I thought it would only make it harder to adjust if I had to later on.

>>1076142
doubleyes

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recommend me some solid budget box profile rims?

>>1076167
What's your obsession with box profiles?

>>1076170
I already have the spokes from the previous wheel, and the rear is box profile

>>1076172
>reusing old spokes
Absolutely haram

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>>1076137
I completely misunderstood the fucking video like an idiot.

But yeah it's a bike that retails for $300

>>1076174
>>reusing old spokes
>Absolutely haram

they are mint stainless steel spokes bro.

>>1076200
>stainless steel
And what it the fuck else would they be? Anon is alluding tot he fact that spokes are not generally reused because they see a lot of wear. No, not the kind you can see. If a rim is worn out or cracked from fatigue it is unlikely that the spokes are in very good condition either, and building a new wheel with them is a wasted effort given how cheap new ones are.

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what is wrong with my drivechain? improper shifting?

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>>1074711
Should I worry about my tire?

>>1076219
Nothing wrong. The pins have worn the paint off. Perfectly normal.

>>1075922
Not sure if it'd really be an upgrade, but it'd be okay. You can find nice used forks pretty easily.

>>1076047
tb14, halo retro, open pro, weymouth, diagonale, cr18 (budget), a23. Lots of good options out there.

>>1076220
I'd say you put a tube too large in there and it's bulging

>>1076224
thanks homie

>>1076248
Don't listen to this guy.

>>1076220 you've got a rupture in the casing of your tire. It might fail, it might not, but I'd replace it rather than risk it.

>>1076167
Sun CR-18

>>1076254
yeah il replace it but i dont feel like going to the store right now
can i still do a casual 20km ride with it?

>>1076257
deflate and stock a folded dollar bill under the weak spot, kiddo

beginner here.. im just looking for a cheap bike to ride around on cool summer nights, is there a recommended brand for me? ive mostly been looking for used bikes on craigslist

>>1076269
i only have loonies and toonies the smallest bill here is 5$

My bike is only getting into smallest gear after hitting a bump, at least so it seems after multiple adjustments of the limit screw and adjustment barrel.
Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

>>1076278
Are you really this poor, soon?

>>1076283
*son

>>1076283
>>1076284
no but id rather use the 5$ to buy a new tire

>>1076286
You're not burning the five.
You get it back after.

>>1076280
>Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
Obviously adjusting it. The fact that you've done it wrong multiple times do not count in your favour. Check alignment. Doublecheck alignment. And height.

>>1076290
Define height?

>>1076292
noun: elevation above a recognised reference

>>1076294
Thanks you smart ass piece of shit.
Yes, I know exactly what object in reference to what other object to check, but not the definition of height.
You're doing god's fucking work.

>>1076295
>what object
How about the derailleur? You may check the reflectors and panniers too if you wish but it will not likely affect shifting.

>>1076296
Alright, good. You're almost there. You've almost answered a question.
Now, in reference to what part of the bike?

Come on, you can do it. You can answer a question.

>>1076298
>You can answer a question.
Yes I can. With another question. What does the derailleur move in relations to that causes shifts? I believe in you, anon!

>>1076300
The derailleur base? The dropout? The cogset? The freewheel?
You're aware a bike has many moving parts that can all be adjusted to different positions from each other and I could have any one of them misaligned, right?
It's taken eight posts to coax out possibly a single word from you.

>>1076303
>You're aware a bike has many moving parts that can all be adjusted to different positions from each other and I could have any one of them misaligned, right?
And yet you are asking the fine members of this Mongolian yak butter churning forum to use our mentalist abilities to troubleshoot it for you with no pics, vague description and a text interface to a monkey who doesn't even into derailleur ride height.

W E W L A D
E
W
L
A
D

>>1076305
Oh, you mean the b screw which I don't have.
Don't you think I would have MENTIONED THAT if I had it?
Don't you think you should have MENTIONED IT if you thought I was overlooking it?
Good work being a vague smartass piece of shit.

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>>1076306
How did they adjust derailleur ride height before the B screw? Or did they not? Something to ponder.

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>>1076307
Again, why not MENTION THE B SCREW?
But ball's in your court.

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>>1076310
Oh, I don't know - did you happen to mention that it was even the rear derailleur? Ask in vague, general terms, get vague, general answers. The method of adjusting ride height is different front and back, so I thought you'd better figure it out yourself.

Nothing personell, kid.

Get a fucking room

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Looking for tire suggestions

I want to put cross tires on my touring bike and ride dirt/gravel like this.

I'm used to Schwalbe Marathon Supremes. My bike can handle around 40c, maybe 44.

Want clincher, 120tpi

I'm willing to spend a lot on tires

>>1076278
A

F
U
C
K
I
N
G

LEAF
E
A
F

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>>1076363
WTB Riddler or Challenge Almanzo. The latter is 240tpi and awesome. Get matching Challenge latex tubes for that sense of floating on air.

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>>1076290
>>1076292
>>1076294
>>1076295
>>1076296
>>1076298
>>1076300
>>1076303
>>1076305
>>1076306
>>1076307
>>1076310
>>1076311

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>>1076371
>WTB Riddler or Challenge Almanzo. The latter is 240tpi and awesome. Get matching Challenge latex tubes for that sense of floating on air.

Thanks dude.

The Riddler is too big for my rims. 40c is the ideal size.

The Alamanzo looks cool but I dunno if it will handle loose gravel so well

Any experience with the WTB Nano?

>>1076363
>>1076376
WTB Nano 40C is a great tire, it shreds.

>>1076377

Thoughts on Race version Vs. TCS ? (I will be using tubes, but if TCS is lighter/better rubber I want) WTB website isn't clear

>>1076378
The TCS version has heavier/thicker sidewalls that are less porous/will seal better. Dunno about other differences, but you're probably better off with the Race version if you're using tubes.

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I know it's a bad pic, but what's this MTB?

The wheels look awesome and the colour scheme is nice, anyone recognise the brand decals?

is the length of a stem/post typically adertised as the length from maximum depth to center of handlebar/seat or as the overall length of the unit sold?

>>1075605
maybe just diet. Opiates also make you take massive shits which may tease hems but otherwise I'd say it's just your diet man. Might be time to look into fiber supplements. I sure as fuck did after having one of those stubborn cunts for a couple months.

>>1075794
yeah, it really doesn't matter if you treat a drivetrain like it's disposeable. For us weirdos who actually like to take care of our bikes though it's worth knowing what is harmful and what isn't.

>>1076376
>The Riddler is too big for my rims. 40c is the ideal size.
The Riddler comes in a 37C size as well as 45C.
>The Alamanzo looks cool but I dunno if it will handle loose gravel so well
They will - it's what they're meant for. They, the Gravel Grinder and the Chicane share the same centre tread pattern, with the latter two having more aggressive side lugs.
Unless you have really long and spiky lugs it's not going to matter much on loose top gravel over hardpack as they won't reach down into it much. What would help is lower tyre pressure, but as you're limited in tyre width that's out.

It's not an issue anyway since you'll be riding on dirt roads and not beaches. You could do that even on slicks. I have.

>>1076376
>>1076444
Oh, forgot to comment on the Nano. That tread is sure to pick up and fling little stones everywhere. I haven't run the Nano, but I have run the cross version of RR, and it was horrible. Constant *ping*poing*pjong* against the frame like a fucking music box and miniature gravel flung into my face every now and then. Wear glasses.

Now pickup factor is high on the list when choosing tread. The Nano doesn't look promising. To me, at least.

>>1075801
The guy's just saying what he's heard, he was even doing it in a polite way. Someone elses interpretation of something shouldn't set you off so much man. Chill out.

>>1076156
So I've just started actually working on repairing my bike recently (by extension because of this board) and I've been watching a LOT of videos and reading and such but I was wondering, what in that picture makes you guys say yes so quickly?

WD-40 is indeed a volatile solvent - it'll evaporate off relatively quickly. It's a poor lubricant because it doesn't deliver much oil, and the oil that it does contain is very light.

It's fine to use for cleaning, or even lubrication if you're going to reapply it every 5km. Otherwise, get a proper bike lube.


Also, if you're poor, acetone + oil mixed in a 50/50 ratio works just as well for a lot less dosh.

just in an accident, ate pavement because the driver couldn't be bothered to shoulder check

i have a flat & some scrapes
there was a police report & everything
the responding police said he'd refer me to a paralegal
how do I determine damages?

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>>1076496
This is what a new jockey wheel pair looks like. spot the difference.

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>>1076500
>>1075608
>>1075166
>>1075618

"wd40 is a perfectly acceptable solvent for cleaning chains, but not for lubricating them. So long as all that shit's cleaned out(as recommended in >>1075166) before applying an appropriate lubricant wd40 works fucking great. Shut the fuck up and/or read whatever you're criticizing you stupid cunt."

>>1076503
Pic you linked ain't pointy?

First time on road bike.

I rode for 10 mins. Lower back is a little but I know this is just growing pain and it'll go away as I get used to riding,

I do however notice A LOT of discomfort on my taint (area between ballsack and anus) when rising and sitting down.

What can I do to make this better? like adjustments I can do instead of replacing the whole seat?

>>1076513
*
>Lower back is a little sore

>>1076513
Adjust your saddle angle so it's relatively level with the ground
Your weight should go on your sitbones, not taint

>>1076515
Not this guy but to add to it, if you're still uncomfortable after playing with the angle you might just need a saddle with a groove/cutout (assuming yours doesn't). I tried to use one without and couldn't get comfortable regardless of the angle.

>>1076513
saddle should be relatively level, and wide enough to contact your sitbones while narrow enough not to chafe your thighs

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E

>>1076546
Sorry for the shitty post and the rotated pic.
My question is a noobish one and despite the risk of being told to never toucha bike again, I've been working on getting my old bike to work again (it's been neglected for a long time) one of the things I have done is replace the rear derailleur with a new shimano tourney that they sold at my local bike shop. However I feel like the angle on it is off, I put it exactly where the old one was but every other bike I see has it more to the left, some almost at a 90 degree angle. I even saw another guy with the same derailleur and he too had it like that. Should I change the angle or is there a reason my old one was at that angle?

>>1076548
It's hard to say without knowing what your old derailleur looked like, but bear in mind that there are a couple different derailleur shapes, long and short cage, so visually they may vary quite a bit. Chain lenght can also modify the shape and position. Plus in your case it seems like it's on the smallest cog and smallest chainring so it's completely "folded in", if you get what I mean.
In any case it looks fine to me.

>>1076571
Yeah I think I do. My old one was an older version of the tourney model. That's all I know about it..

>>1076119
Update: I took the grips off, wiped the bars with degreaser and wrapped some electric trape on the bars. The grips are now a much tighter fit, but somehow I don't think they will stay put.
>>1076125
You must be doing something wrong. Are you sure you are using the highest gear? Usually the top gear would be good for at least 50kph (is that like 30 burgers/hour?), which I doubt you are achieving most of the time.
>>1076372
Yeah had a pretty good laugh too. Funniest shit I've read on /n/.
>>1076404
I can't actually see the bike in the picture. i can see the wheel, fork, stem and handlebars.I don't think identifying the manufacturer of those parts can help you at all.
I'd estimate that it is quite old, maybe early 2000s anyway.
>>1076417
Stems are usually center to center of the mounting points, not outside measurements. Seatposts might be total length, I'm not sure. It really doesn't matter anyway because you can adjust it.

>>1076501
(I assume you are asklng about damage to the bike)
Maybe consider taking the bike to a shop to be evaluated. Not because they necessarily know any better, but you would have an independent and professional opinion on it. Worst case, the frame is bent.
>>1076512
If you want to learn more, just google about sprocket wear. It doesn't matter if it's chainrings, cassettes, motorcycles, it's all the same. If it's a different shape than originally, it's fucked.
>>1076548
Connect the cable and shift into a larger sprocket. Does it look more like the other derailleurs then?
What do you mean by "left"? To the center of the bike? That just depends on what gear you are in.

My rear shifter feels looser than my front. It doesn't feel right. What should I look for? Could it just be the cable needs tightening?

It's 105 if that helps.

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are there any mobility excersies that will help me get comfortable in a agressive road riding position ?

>>1076836
core exercises.

>>1076837

I hit the gym 3 times a week with a focus on the big compound movements.

I would have thought my core strength is not the problem.
I really feel like it might be a mobility issue.

>>1076839
Where is the most discomfort? It could be you, it could be the fit, it could be both.

Can you touch your toes easily enough?

Is it ok to exceed the maximum rated pressure of a tire by 53%?

>>1076841
No

>>1076843
What problems may I encounter?

>>1076840

the pain or rather the building discomfort is above my hip slightly left of the spine.

I cant touch toes.
Im currently using a fizik saddle for people with low hip mobility.

I once talked to a docter about beeing unable to touch my toes and he assesed that It probably is not due to shortend hamstrings but due to a preloaded hip.

I've actually been trying to get a appointment with a orthopedist for a wgile now but they're allways closed to new customers.

salt tabs for long rides in hot weather: which are best?

>>1076791
By left I mean the derailleur is often 90 degrees towards the back end of my bike.

When are they going to make affordable powermeters?

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Anyone know of some shoes similar to these? I'm looking for some SPD road shoes and they seem almost perfect but unfortunately are out of stock everywhere in my size. I asked one retailer if the knew if they were going to be getting any more and they suggested not and recommended the RT5s but they don't look as spot on as the RT82s.

>>1076869
I hold these in very high regard

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-m088-spd-mountain-bike-shoes/

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>>1076869
i use these for commuting and cx

they're a bit chunky for roadies but they look good.

Got memed into buying hollowtech BB.
Now (after ~160km) crank keeps falling off roughly every ~3km.
Anything I can do, or is it done for?

It just progressively slides from the splines during riding no matter how tightly it's secured.
And the tiny plastic that's supposed to keep it from falling off doesn't reach its threads anymore (it screws in securely w/o the crank, but won't reach threads w/ crank).

Do I kill the little plastic spacer to make it squeeze tighter and hopefully make it not fall off?
Or do I try to bring the crank together using vise or something to try to make the little plastic bit reach its designated threads?

>>1076896
The plastic endcap only applies preload to the bearings; it is not meant to retain the crank.

Are you torquing the pinch bolts to the specified torque, or just "feels tight, I guess"?

Are you properly installing the retention plate? Called out as #7 in this exploded view: https://www.paul-lange.de/index.php/de/explosionszeichnungen.html?file=files/paullange/07_Service/04_Downloads/Shimano/explosionszeichnungen/FC/FC-6600-2365E.PDF

>>1076869
http://exustar.com/index.php/products/shoes/mtb-shoes/sport-mtb-shoes/e-sm366-detail.html
Exustar has some stuff at a lower price point than Shimano.
I use link related on my gravel bike and they are wonderful.

What's a good gear ratio for my fixed gear that will give me good top speed and solid push. Feel like I have to do 10 cranks just to get myself going slow now that my legs aren't shitty.

>>1076919
>The plastic endcap only applies preload to the bearings; it is not meant to retain the crank.
Yeah that's what I figured during repairs after it first fell off, but now that it keeps falling again and again, I'm just wasn't sure anymore.

>Are you torquing the pinch bolts to the specified torque, or just "feels tight, I guess"?
Initially went with "feels tight, I guess", but since it first fell off I'm screwing it as tight as possible. Got no tools to measure torque.

>Are you properly installing the retention plate?
Yes, I do think so. I'll double check in the morning.

It appears the crank doesn't slide properly deep on the splines for whatever reason. I cleaned and regreased it, but that didn't help.
Or perhaps I'm just confusing things and it's as deep as it's supposed to be, hard to tell.

>>1076937
>It appears the crank doesn't slide properly deep on the splines for whatever reason
Because you damaged it when you rode it improperly secured the first time. Aluminium is soft. The spines have deformed from you pedalling on it while unsecured and misaligned. You need a new left crank. Unless you can find that as a spare at a reasonable price - which you can't - you need a whole new chainset.
If it makes you feel better I've done it too. I subsequently bought a torque wrench...

>>1076863
Your chain is too long.

>>1076845
Tire separating from the rim.
>>1076933
Only you can decide that. We don't know if you ride any hills, how fit you are, etc.

how do i know if i have wire or folding bead tires?

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Two questions-

#1- What are some good 26" 120 tpi mixed terrain city tires? Preferably not to break the bank. Trying to pull off a nice budget build on an old bike.

#2- Now that Scotts are literally impossible to find, are there any modern bars in this shape that will fit on 31.8 stems? Or am I stuck to drop bars?

>>1076997
when not mounted on a wheel, folding bead tires are floppy but wire bead tires stay round

>>1076998
Panaracer Pasela

>>1076998
Modolo makes a bar called the Yuma with a somewhat similar shape

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what do the end measurements mean on these tire liners? I have 700x32 but not sure on those.

>>1077004

RED:

27" = rim size
1 1/8" = width in inches

GOLD:
29 = 29er = 700c
1.5 = width in inches

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>>1076998
>#1- What are some good 26" 120 tpi mixed terrain city tires? Preferably not to break the bank. Trying to pull off a nice budget build on an old bike.

120 tpi 26" city tire that doesn't break the bank... That might not exist. I'd suggest..

Paselas if you want to save money
Schwalbe Marathon line if you want 120tpi

>#2- Now that Scotts are literally impossible to find, are there any modern bars in this shape that will fit on 31.8 stems? Or am I stuck to drop bars?

Yuma Mohican as mention above, but you might need a 26.0 stem. I'd consider the Jones Bar.

Casey's Crazy Bar from Velo Orange is another goofy option

>>1077009
>>Schwalbe Marathon line if you want 120tpi
Marathons are basically all 67, even the Supreme, as far as I can tell.

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Tips for adjusting FD so it doesn't rub against the chain? I've been at it for an hour now and I'm ready to kill myself

Hey guys, brainlet rolling on by with a quick question.
Where in the ever-loving fuck do I get 700x38/45C tires or can someone fucking translate it for me?
I have a Schwinn Pathfinder if that means anything.
I went looking for bike tires at >walmart but couldn't find anything.
Tomorrow I'll go to my LBS but not before I get an answer here.
Someone help me please.

Also, how hard would it be to put drop bars on my bike?

best/cheapest bike cleaner and lube available on amazon?

>>1077013
>Where in the ever-loving fuck do I get 700x38/45C tires
700x38c and 700x45c are two different sizes. Where did you see "700x38/45c"? If you saw it on a tube, it means that tube fits tires in the range of 700x38c - 700x45c.
>drop bars
You have to replace the brake/shift levers, and potentially the brakes and derailleurs. Pretty involved task if you don't know much about working on bikes. Better to just get an old ten speed road bike on Craigslist (check >>>/n/bbg for advice), not worth converting a shitty old Schwinn to drops.

>>1077018
Its actually relatively new, I bought it a month ago.
Thank you though, I'll see what I can do to unfuck my bike's shit up.

I saw it on my tube.

>>1077012
You need to get several things correct: Height, rotational alignment, cable tension, and limit screws. Also make sure you have the proper derailleur (i.e. double vs triple, top pull vs bottom pull, etc) Check Park Tool and Sheldon Brown (both links are in OP post) for tutorial on fd adjustment. Also make sure the derailleur cage plates aren't bent, if your fd is damaged then you have to bend it back or replace it. And you'll always have chain rub when cross-chaining even if your derailleurs are adjusted correctly.

>>1077019
Even if it's new, a Schwinn really isn't worth putting that much money into (drop bar conversion). An 80s road bike will be much better than a modern Schwinn.
>I saw it on my tube
If you are wondering about tires rather than tubes, look on the side of the tire, it will say the size

>>1077022
The tire said 700c and when I got a 700c it was way too fuckin thin.
I'm a brainlet like I said, thank you though.
Ill see what I can do.

>>1077023
the 700c is the diameter. thickness is the other number

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>>1077024
Oh jesus I feel really stupid now.
Okay, so I should look for 700c and the recommended thickness?

>>1077023
The tire side will say something like "700x38c" or "700x48c" etc. Which means 700c diameter (as other anon said), and (in the examples I gave) 38mm width or 48mm width. Of course it doesn't have to be 38 or 48, those are random examples I chose.

>>1077025
don't feel stupid. i just figured out (thanks anon) the 29er just means imperial measurement

>>1077025
A 700c tire's size will be written in the format "700xNc" where "N" is a number, somewhere in the range of 20-50 or thereabouts.
>recommended thickness
No, it's not a recommendation. It's the actual width of the tire. If a tire says 700x35c, it means that the tire is 35mm wide.

>>1077028
>29er means imperial measurement
Eh kinda, "29er" is just a term usually used in the context of mountain bikes whereas "700c" is used in the context of road bikes. They both refer to ISO 622.

>>1077032
yeah i hear yeah. i just didn't know the difference between 700c x 32 and 29 x 1.5"
where they're apparently the same thing just measurements and the latter mostly used for mtb

>>1077038
29x1.5" is way wider than 700x32c obviously but yeah same diameter. The official ISO size is 622mm

>>1074711
are all tubes created equal? are thorn proof tubes more "durable" or just more direct puncture resistant?

how small of tubes could i run in a 700x28?

I have a endurance road bike officialy fits up to 30mm tires.
I'm absolutley certain that I can fit 32 mm easily.

there are 25mm tires on there atm but I want to go bigger as the easern germany rural roads I ride are absolutley shit.
and I allways risk of encountering big cobblesections if I don't plan my routescarefully.

should I get 30 or 32.

also what tires ?
50€for two tires would be ideal

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>>1074711
Currently looking at two mtb's to putz around town and do some light xc.

Option 1

Felt q600 from 2008 €250
>aluminium frame
>LX derailleur in front and rear
>v brakes
>suntour shocks?

OR

Option 2

Kona Muni Mula 1998 €200

>xt rear and front derailleur
> aluminium frame
>marzochi bombers

Picture attached is the Felt. The kona is incoming.

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>>1077099
The Kona

Kona went for over 1200 new. While the Felt bike went for around 500 but it appears that the owner has made some upgrades to the components.

>>1076945
Rechecked the "plate" thingy. It's broken and no longer works performs its function. Most likely the cause of crank arm falling off.

It appears the scenario was that the plate-thingy snapped, arm become unsecured and it started wiggling, possibly causing more damage on its way out.

And the plastic endcap *just barely* reaches its threads - even thought it's not needed I'm taking it as a good sign, since it means the aluminium splines didn't bent *too* much.

Might be salvageable yet. Taking it to the LBS now, since that's the place where they'll have piles of spare "plates". We'll see what happens next.
Thanks for everything!

Really dumb question. Got a bike with a Shimano Nexus 3 speed with the coaster brake but I want to add a front brake. How do I know what will fit?

>>1075924
I found a Niterider Lumina 400 for only $30 that was a steal. Puts out 500lu, but at the lowest setting of 30 lasts nearly 24H

I put a biologic revue in the rear, it's rechargeable $20

>>1077116
Oh and I removed all reflectors but my lock shines

>>1076945
>>1077103
Final report: Mission accomplished.

According to LBS the "plate"-thing is useless, only purpose it serves is to aid during assembly.
They did however hint that it's caused by BB loosening and the servicing they'd do would go like this:
a) disassemble, check, reassemble
b) if anything is beyond saving, replace
Figured - heck - I can do disassembling and reassembling myself!

Arrived back at my place and that's exactly what I ended up doing.
Thorough analysis revealed:
- BB was in an atrocious state. It was so loose that it was ready to rip my frame threads.
- The culprit crank arm indeed has bent splines, just a tiny bit, but enough to stop it from sliding in.

Disassembled everything, cleaned it, regreased, assembled everything but the crank arm.
Then it dawned on me: if splines are bent so that they don't slide in, perhaps instead of sliding it in, I should open it wider, insert it, and tighten it up right on the splines?
Wasn't the brightest idea, but the alternative was replacing the crank so in reality I'm not risking anything.
I did it, used a pair of goddamn scissors for the job (needed some leverage to widen it up). It worked.
Moreover the bent splines are serving as an additional tightening measure now, and the crank won't budge even when pulled hard.

I'll keep a careful eye on it in the following months - make sure neither BB not crank is loosening - but it's in a great shape already.

Thanks again for the tips, especially the one about bent splines - I would have *definitely* missed it under all that grease if I didn't know what to look for.
Once again /bqg/ doesn't disappoint!

>>1076937
>Initially went with "feels tight, I guess"

Shimano calls for 10-15Nm, which is dang tight. 2-3x as tight as your stem clamp bolts, for example.

>>1077103
>Rechecked the "plate" thingy. It's broken and no longer works performs its function. Most likely the cause of crank arm falling off.

The purpose of that little plate is to keep the crank from actually falling off if you don't tighten the pinch bolts enough - the little nubbin fits into a dimple in the crank splines. My guess is you left the bolts too loose *and* somehow fucked up the installation of the safety plate, leading to the crank arm falling off (repeatedly).

Why you kept riding it is a mystery to me, but you're in luck: the safety plate is a $2 part. Buy a new one and try to re-install the crank arm; hopefully you didn't damage the splines *too* much.

>>1077141
I managed to reinstall it, didn't replace the safety plate tho.
It's pretty damn tight now - the arm won't budge even if I take off the pinch bolts entirely, and those too are gorilla-strength-tightly torqued now.
Full report here:
>>1077133
One thing I forgot to mention - now the plastic endcap easily reaches crank threads and had enough spare space that it needed to be tightened with the specialized tool.
So all lights are green afaik, biggest red light for me was that the endcap barely reached the threads and couldn't be threaded tightly enough to hold on its own.

In the end it was insufficiently tightly mounted BB that led to the whole cascade of parts loosening and falling off.
And for the record I only "kept riding it" for a short time, until the arm fell off the second time, and only as a test to see if my makeshift-repair managed to fix it.
Though I can't tell how long I were riding with a loose BB - didn't notice it until the first time crank arm fell off.

Anyhow, it appears the issue is resolved. Do you recommend replacing the safety plate anyway?

>>1077100
>that bike when for 1200 new

jesus christ

>>1077105
can you post a pic of the front fork?

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What bar-end shifter is this guy using?

I want to bar-end shift a 40t cassette with a Rival RD, but I thought it was impossible

so a half-grain-of-rice piece of glass managed to puncture tire and tube. do i have to replace the entire tire?

>>1077189
Yes, but not because the tire is ruined, but because you need stronger tires.

>>1076404
Try mtbr or bikeforums. The boomer autists there could figure it out in 5 min

where do you guys buy your tubes online?

>>1077189
Nope, small tire punctures are fine

>>1077178
Looks like a SRAM barend shifter, one originally meant for aerobars

>>1077189
whether or not you have to replace the tire depends on the severity of the cut, if the cut is large enough that an inflated tube bulges out through the hole then you need to either boot or replace the tire

>>1077193
last time I bought tubes I found the best price on a box of 50 at 365 Cycles, but I've bought from other sites in the past. Shop around.

>>1077098

I red an articel on bycicle quaterly where they looked at the rolling resistance of fatter tires and the rolling resiance kept going down even on tire bigger than 28mm.

however the reductionn rolling resistance was really small and the weight doese go up + there are aero concerns depending on youre rims

so maybe compare a 30 and 32 mm tires and decide if it's worth it

>>1077194
do you recommend using bike rim tape on the inside of the tire?

>>1077190
>stronger tires
what do you think of gatorskins vs SCHWALBE Marathon

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>>1077162
Not sure if this helps at all, my bike is from some kickstarter and I just didn't want to spend $30 on their optional front brake that's more than likely shitty just because I didn't know what else that's better and cheaper that can fit.

>>1077211
Marathons are slower but more durable tires. But with gatorskins you're already giving up a lot of the speed and comfort of a high TPI race tire by adding in bead to bead protection, which essentially makes a thicker, less supple casing.

>>1077227
That just looks like a Tektro 800A. Not sure if it's recessed or nutted though. Then you'd have to get a lever and cables. You could do it yourself for cheaper, but if you have no idea what you're doing, you can just but the stock brake and save yourself some headaches. Or you could buy a non shit bike.

>>1077248
After looking at other photos and such it appears to be recessed. I don't mind tinkering and learning on this bike since it's just a beater.

>>1077227
I have a cane Creek scr-3L you can have

But it's probably a bad idea to give it to you since you have no idea what you're doing.

Just go to a bike shop and ask for a long reach brake and a lever and cable setup.

I got a neglected 80's Peugeot road bike a few weeks back and fixed it up. I can't ride with no hands, it pulls to the right. The last owner converted it to a fixie, so I'm sure the rear fork is being pulled in a little bit. Could this be the cause, or is there some structural fuckup on my bike?

>>1076946
How is that possible if I used the original chain to measure against?

>>1077335
Possibly because the new derailleur uses a different amount of chain

>>1077227

Belt Drive Priority Cycles bike

How is it holding up?

Cool concept to make a belt drive bike that cheap, but also a bit alarming

>>1077349
I just got it off craigslist for $200 so it really wasn't a bad deal. I've had it for maybe a few weeks now and I think it was very much worth it as a beater to go around the city. Not a huge fan of the twistgrip to shift, and the belt seems ok so far. Paint is thin on the frame, coaster brake has been hard to get used to, but the ride from the fat ass tires and thick saddle make it super comfy.

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I need a smartphone mount for my road bike.
are there anyparticular models or attachment methods to look out for ?

>>1077400
Check out the rockbros store on aliexpress

>>1077380
Most 9 year olds master coaster brakes so I'm sure it's a simple solution the Ikea bike has them too

>>1077380
>I just got it off craigslist for $200 so it really wasn't a bad deal. I've had it for maybe a few weeks now and I think it was very much worth it as a beater to go around the city. Not a huge fan of the twistgrip to shift, and the belt seems ok so far. Paint is thin on the frame, coaster brake has been hard to get used to, but the ride from the fat ass tires and thick saddle make it super comfy.

Sounds cool. Belt drive beater is a neat idea if it works.

Do belt drive capable frames require any specific features other than being able to open and let the belt drive in?
I guess what I'm really asking is can I put a belt drive(train) on a regular elevated chainstay frame? Or does it need special dropouts or something

>>1077347
That's entirely possible but it wasn't mentioned in any of the videos I watched. I did mention on my original post though that the derailleur I had originally wasn't there either. I installed the new one in the same place.

>>1077246
Marathons are basically the fastest puncture-resistant tires out there senpai, they even beat out a few "road" tires lmao

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Moving to a bike with a 10-speed Sram drivetrain. Would I see any difference moving from an X5 shift pod to something above an X7 (GX/X9/X0)? I liked that I could blast through 4 gears in one pull on my XT shifter, but I can't use it with a 42t cassette.

>>1077430
Needs a way to tension the belt tool

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i have a road bike with 105 drivetrain (short cage rear derailleur), what chains are my options?
should i just go with the 105 chain? whats the difference with a more basic chain? how about kmc? i know nothing about chains, and i ask cause i live overseas, for some reason chains are expensive here maybe ill order them through the mail..and buy a few at once...
thanks!

>>1077640
Wipperman Connex

>>1077640
It depends more on what your cassette size is.
If you run an 11s in the back, you can use any of the shimano 11s chains (105, Ultegra, etc.).
Third party chains like KMC should also be find.
While you "can" use SRAM and Campy 11s chains, the width of the links will be slightly different than on a shimano chain which could present issues.

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>>1077440
>Marathons
>fast

>>1077581
The trick is to take the SRAM shifter, flip it upside down, pull the cable out, and gently throw it in the garbage and buy shimano parts

>>1077306
>rear fork
m8...
Anyway, make sure the rear wheel is in the dropouts perfectly straight. See if it looks in perfect alignment with the seattube when looking from behind.
>>1077193
Bike Fanatik
>>1077189
no
>>1075924
Cygolite
Reflectors are a meme, get good lights

>>1075916
>Thieves will just take off the GPS tracker.
Not if you hide it inside the frame.
>>1075884
>afraid to wear cycling clothing because it will make people think you're gay
>being this insecure about your actual homosexuality
Nah m8, you're the gay one.
>>1075828
Yeah, do a few longer (50-80km) rides before then but yea 105km a day is easy if you're on a decent bike. It would be difficult for a beginner on a mountain bike though.
>>1077653
You should literally kill yourself.

>>1077581
I don't know about the X7, but I can do that on my NX. Not sure off the top of my head if it's five or four gears per pull. I'm a bit confused why X5 wouldn't at least allow you to pull a few gears at a time. Sure about that?

>>1077651
http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/tour-reviews

>oh no literally like 4 or 5 watts more RR than puncture magnets MUH STRAVAS

>>1077736
>>4 or 5 watts more RR than puncture magnets
What puncture magnets? Puncture test is the relevant number. Puncture factor is normalised to tyre thickness and irrelevant to real world conditions as puncture forces are absolute and the world isn't extra gentle with you because you run a thicker tyre. They're all pretty much in the 12-13-14 range except two CST and Conti outliers that are 10 and 11, respectively. The "best" rolling tyre that scores anywhere near twice as tough (but doesn't quite) is the Randonneur at 21. It's 15 W per tyre, or 30 W per whole bike slower. That's 10-20% of your leisurely cruise power.

All the Marathons fall in the main stream, puncture protection wise. And, owing to their very rigid puncture protection system they should be gauged at the same pressure as other tyres, but lower.
Quoting review of the "fastest" Marathon:
>Although rolling resistance of the Marathon Almotion is lower when compared to the Voyager Hyper or Marathon Supreme (read review), you do have to keep in mind that the anti-puncture layer in the Marathon Almotion makes it a stiffer tire. What this means is that -for the same comfort level- you have to run less pressure in the Almotion which in turn increases rolling resistance. I'm not sure exactly how much lower air pressure has to be, but I guess this to be somewhere around 10-15 psi. The Almotion is a very fast tire, but the thick anti-puncture layer makes it look even better in this test when compared to the more supple tires.

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This guy is trying to sell his older small cannondale m300 for $325. I want to talk him down but it's a US made bike in basically perfect condition. It's not technically worth that much but it's a private seller and a good bike. How can I talk him down ? or should I just bite the bullet?

Is the solution to dick numbness on long rides a saddle with a cut-out in the center, or is there saddle adjustment that also needs to happen?

Also, would getting a harder saddle help, or is it mostly related to the cutout?

>>1077755
cut your dick off

>>1077756
But then how would I please the massive throngs of women that are lusty over my sweet ride?

>>1077754
pls help

>>1077754
Just did some quick research. Basically this fuck is selling a 20 yr old bike for 30% off MSRP. Thats fucked. .

Is there a possible setup to have bullhorns with brakes in both hand positions?

>>1077754
>US made bike
That means nothing

>>1077767
Aero levers or TT levers with external cable routing, with interrupters on the flats.

>>1077755
I think the cutout is just a bail out for people who can't get a properly fitted saddle. I've ridden a hard ass saddle with no cutout and never suffered any kind of numbness. Just make sure your weight is resting on your sitbones and your saddle isn't ridiculously tilted back

>>1077777
your input is valued

>>1077777
nice fucking quints though

>>1077754
Some folks are simply delusional about the amount of cash their valuables will fetch art sale, friend. If you can't convince him down to 250, best to just walk on by.

>>1077785
>hurr le repeating numbers
your input is valued

>>1077778
I'm still trying to wrap my head around how interrupters work...

Anyone care to explain?

>>1077791
A brake is actuated by the relative movement between the housing and wire. A conventional brake pulls the wire. An interrupter pushes apart an interrupted length of housing. The result is the same.

Is there a way to get a quality pair of cycling clothes (jersey and shorts) without paying some jew $50 a piece?

Should I buy a factory wheelset like the Fulcrum Racing Quattro? Or should I get a set of non-proprietary wheels like H+Son Archetype / Velocity A23 with 105 hubs. Are factory wheels with proprietary parts wheels a bad idea? Id like to spend under $400 on wheels plus tires.

>>1077837
Yes, it's called aliexpress.

>>1077846
>Should I buy a factory wheelset like the Fulcrum Racing Quattro? Or should I get a set of non-proprietary wheels like H+Son Archetype / Velocity A23 with 105 hubs. Are factory wheels with proprietary parts wheels a bad idea? Id like to spend under $400 on wheels plus tires

I was in the market for a similar set and got repeatedly burned ordering from velomine. Do not do that.

If you want a $400 wheelset that is well built and A23 quality, you might have to shop around.

I'm not sure what you mean by proprietary... I haven't heard that used regarding wheels. I might be dumb.

>>1075067
>- Latex gloves under gloves
your hands will sweat and those things will fill up like balloons. then your gloves will get wet from the inside out. look into waterproof motorcycle gloves. you'll look goofy but you'll be dry and warm

about to change my first tube. anything i should know?

Noticed some strange, metallic-sounding knocking in me rear wheel, but only when I sit on the bike. Can't seem to make it happen off the bike. One knock every revolution.
I kinda inspected the spokes, but didn't see anything strange. What could it be? Should I be concerned? It's a basically new bicycle.
Pls help.

>>1077882
Re-insert it properly so you don't bust it. I'd recommend to inflate it a bit before setting it in the tyre.

>>1077888
Check the cables. I once had a bike where the dérailleur cable was slapping against my crank when I pedaled.

Need to buy babyys first padded bike short. Im a 6 foot male with big thighs. I wear size 36/38 waist. What size should i get ? What brands would you all recommend? Something I can buy off amazon or ebay.

TIA

>>1077864
>I'm not sure what you mean by proprietary... I haven't heard that used regarding wheels. I might be dumb.
So called system wheels often have non-standard spokes, nipples, rim holes, hub fixings and are more or less completely non-servicable with standard parts and sometimes even tools. That's why they're system wheels.
>>1077846
>Should I buy a factory wheelset like the Fulcrum Racing Quattro? Or should I get a set of non-proprietary wheels like H+Son Archetype / Velocity A23 with 105 hubs.
I'd say the latter if you can afford it. The only A23 rim I'd be interested in is the offset version. I say that as an owner and builder of a set of A23 wheels. My Pacenti SL23 wheels are superior in nearly every way (ride, aero, finish, responsiveness), as are my Spank Oozy295 wheelsets even if they're different beasts.
>Are factory wheels with proprietary parts wheels a bad idea? Id like to spend under $400 on wheels plus tires.
I wouldn't say they're a bad idea. They're cheap, and you can get a lot of bullet point features in a system wheelset for very little money. I have a set of WH-RS31 wheels that while heavy have flattened spokes, excellent hubs, offset rear rim and outdated but not horrible aerodynamics. I think the set cost me 160€ a few years ago. They're not bad, but they're not very fun either and I fully expect to throw them away the day they pop a spoke.

When you're willing to spend as much as you are, and I later have, you have the hand built/tuned option. I'd take it.
I'm really most impressed with Spank. If it's not a pure race machine and it can fit 25-28 mm tyres I'd build with Oozy260 rims on 105-5800 hubs. They're also excellent to set up tubeless, so if you want to try out the latest roadie fad you're all set.
If it's more of a racing road bike I'd pick the Pacenti SL23 rim. It's a very similar profile to Archetype but slightly deeper and without that sidewind catching spine. It's marketed as a tubeless rim, but not as good at it as Oozy.

>>1077888
>Noticed some strange, metallic-sounding knocking in me rear wheel, but only when I sit on the bike. Can't seem to make it happen off the bike. One knock every revolution.
I'd bet a dollar that it's the valve stem. Take a piece of electricians tape, make a tight slit in it, thread the valve stem through it (it should barely fit) and tape it down against the rim. It's also what the pros do, so you get Velominati brownie points.

is tire liner overkill with gatorskins/other puncture resistant tire?

if i want to completely wash my bike is there anything I need to do to prevent rust?

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>>1078008
Memeskins are overkill to begin with. If you're so worried about penetrating punctures you want to go tubeless. Not fuck about with ever multiplying layers of protection barriers.

One, on the tread, is helpful. Double tread plus bead-to-bead is already plain silly. If the first didn't solve the problem you're now seeking ever diminishing returns on a solution that didn't solve. And you're thinking about adding more? Pic related.

I sexually Identify as an Attack Helicopter. Ever since I was a boy I dreamed of soaring over the oilfields dropping hot sticky loads on disgusting foreigners. People say to me that a person being a helicopter is Impossible and I’m fucking retarded but I don’t care, I’m beautiful. I’m having a plastic surgeon install rotary blades, 30 mm cannons and AMG-114 Hellfire missiles on my body. From now on I want you guys to call me “Apache” and respect my right to kill from above and kill needlessly. If you can’t accept me you’re a heliphobe and need to check your vehicle privilege. Thank you for being so understanding.

so are patched tubes consider good as new?

what do you guys keep in your saddle bag?

>>1078100
Better. You know a patched tube will work because it's worked before. A new tube could have a faulty valve or whatever.

>>1078014
Bead to bead protection does make sense, but not on anything pretending to be a supple road tire.

Are the bike manufacturers trying to phase out hardtail bikes? I keep seeing less and less of them, especially at the higher end I'm not interested in rear suspension and my riding never really goes beyond cross country.

>>1077932
thanks for the detailed response senpai

Hey guys, I'm buying a bike from my friend, it's a Specialized Hardrock 26.

There are some broken parts on it though, and I'm not sure which parts to order.

The right crank is stripped where the pedal screws in, so I need a new part for that, but I'm not sure which crank to get.

I also need new brake pads, but looking at a spec sheet online it says 60mm V-brake pads, would 70mm pads not work?

>>1075569
What the hell do you think you'll get with a set of v-brakes that you don't already have with cantis? The only difference is that the v-brakes are slightly lower profile when off-roading. MAYBE better modulation too but that's irrelevant on the road. Keep what you've got unless it's broken.

this is RIP
new BQG thread:
>>1078151
>>1078151


gogogogo

>>1076841
worse is riding without enough pressure.

>>1076841
No. It's not particularly bad for the tire or tube, but it's bad for you.
Tires squish a little on the road and it gives you better grip on the road. If you pump them up way too high, you'll lose grip on the road and chances are every stop will be a skid and cornering is hazardous.

I have a pedal that is stuck in the crank pretty good. In using an allen key to attempt removing it the hole has been slightly rounded. It is the style of pedal that does not have the flats on the shaft for a spanner. Would simply grabbing it with a wrench be worth a go?
Any other ideas?
Cheers

>>1078334
If it's stuck in an aluminum crankarm, you can heat the arm with a torch and it will expand faster than the steel of the pedal spindle, making it much easier to get the pedal out. If the hex fitting is stripped, you'll have to grip the pedal with a pair of vice grips somehow, which may require a destructive disassembly of the pedal first... good luck.

Pedals without wrench flats are a crime against nature.

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>>1074711
Men, I have a frame like this in the picture, but I don't have any idea about what kind of seat post I need to put them. Because when I see the frame, I don't see how to put a ordinary seat post. They need another kind of seat post or something like that?

>>1077892
>>1077933
Looks like I'm an idiot and it was a loose spoke.
Welp.

I can't find a decently priced mountain bike, used and oldish anywhere online. I'm looking for a 24" frame with 27" wheels, either a giant, cannondale, or any other good brand. Around 100-200 usd. What can one do?

Looking to upgrade suspension fork, anything with 100-120mm of travel will do.

What's the best non-air fork I can get?

And since my current one is non-tapered (XCM) should I look for non-tapered only or can I run adapters or something?

I am looking to buy a bike to commute to work. I have only 3km to cross but they're all uphill. Additionally I have 3 traffic lights I need to stop at and I will need to gain speed fast going uphill to not get killed by all the cars.

Which general features should I look for in the bike?