/bqg/ - Bike Questions General

OP here, looking at Portland Design Works fenders and Planet Bike Cascadia fenders. Thoughts on either of these? Running 27x1-1/8, I assume fenders designed for 700c will work.

When you're coming to a stop is it alright to switch the front gears down to make it easier to start up again without changing the rear gears all the way too? I know this means the chain will be going diagonally which isn't good for the bike, but if you immediately shift back up again once you get going will it be a problem?

>>1071660
It's always best to avoid cross chaining. If you are in your big ring and one of your smaller cogs, you could shift towards one of your middle cogs. If you're in your big ring and middle cog, you could stay in the middle cog and switch to the small ring. Etc. If you do cross chain it's just going to wear out your components a bit faster, obviously less so if you're not doing it for as long, but I don't see why you would have to be in big ring/big cog when you could instead be in small ring/middle cog or, if running triple, middle ring/middle cog, and still have approximately the same ratio.

>>1071660
And to be clear: It's not like when you're in your big ring, you have to be in your very smallest cogs. Just avoid the biggest two-three cogs.
And likewise, when in the small ring, avoid the smallest two-three cogs.
Being in big ring or small ring along with any of the cogs around the middle is completely acceptable.

Got the chain stuck between the small cog and the frame.

Any tricks for getting it out? It's got a chain guide on the bottom so finding slack is difficult.

>>1071708
Between the small cog and the stay? Just remove the wheel. Yank it out.

>>1071729
>Just remove the wheel.
Good idea!

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>>1071738

after changing my crank I keep dropping my chain.

however I don't really know if it has anything to do with my crank.

the chain only drops on up shift.
and I noticed that the chain sometimes shifts normaly and sometimes slaps from side to side.
I notice this on the upper part of the chain ,so above the deraileur.

I even use a clutch deraileur.

what going on ?

is it possible to run a mechanical group on a di2 specific frame with internal housing ?
could I just use full length housing ?
would I need to go external ?

>>1071808
If by crank you mean crankset including chainrings, old chain + new chainrings can cause shifting issues and chain dropping. Get a new chain.

>>1071812
Yes, you would need to go external for full length housing, it'd look pretty ugly

>>1071808
also check chain length

>>1071653
>Thoughts on either of these?

Pretty expensive.

>>1071808
New crank probably shifted the chainline in or out. Adjust the limits on the front derailleur, and depending on the type of front shifter (friction vs indexed) adjust the cable.

>>1071812
I have the same problem. Not gonna buy any time soon but there is a Di2 bike I want but I hate Di2 because Shimano is shit and electronic drive trains are shit. I want to replace it with mechanical SRAM Red.

How are Campagnolo groupsets?
Specifically the Veloce.

Thinking of building a bike if I can get a frame for cheap.

The shifting seems nicer than that of Shimano.

>>1071894
Go for Sram doubletap

>>1071894
Campy stuff is always really nice, but tends to be extra-expensive for no good reason, and because it has less market share than Shimano, Campy-specific small bits (like chainring bolts) aren't so easy to get if you need them.

The one place where Campy really shines are the shifters, personally I think they have the best ergonomic shape of any brand, but what really sets them apart is the ability to do multiple up- and down-shifts on the higher end models (Campy calls this "Ultra-shift" and it's part of the Chorus, Record, and SR levers). The lower-end groups have "power-shift" and so they do multiple upshifts, but not multiple downshifts, just like Shimano STI levers work.

Whether that's of any importance or not depends on personal preferences - I have Veloce shifters on my CX bike and don't miss having multiple downshifts on that bike at all, but I've got Chorus (and older Athena) shifters on a couple of my road bikes, and riding in my hilly area I love being able to instantly get into whatever higher gear I desire with a single press of the thumb button.

Recently discovered all my chain ring bolts were loose, wtf.
Also, the only thing that still makes noise on my bike is the rear hub when it free wheels, sound like maybe it has dirt in it, it doesn't click click click like it used to. Do I take the cassett off to clean this?

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I'm replacing old parts on my commuter because I've ground everything to dust. I just learned from my LBS that my STI 5600 triple shifters are trash too, so now I'm confronted with having to find identical 105 shifters which will be a costly and timely burden. Does anyone know whether a 2x10 shifter pair would be fine with a 3x10 drivetrain? My commuter's original drivetrain is a 3x10 with a long cage Ultegra rear, triple Ultegra front deraillir, and a new triple crank.

>>1071969
I should add, I just replaced the old crankset with a last-gen FSA SL-K triple (only because I found an outstanding deal on Craigslist), so I hope that a 2x10 STI lever pair will in fact be compatible, because said parts in good order are hard to find an only primarily be sourced from eBay and there are a few 2x listings, but almost no 3x pair listings.

>>1071969
Does your front shifter have a "trimming" clicking system? As in, not just three fixed positions but rather like five different clicks? If so, you can make it work with a triple just fine

>>1071978
I honestly do not know: it is a clamp-on 6600 Ultegra front derailleur, if that helps at all

>>1071969
>commuter

I would consider Microshit if you want to save money. I don't think they're a bad deal for what you get. Commuter = you don't need absolute top of the line stuff

On the other hand, on my commuter bikes, I have put bar-end shifters when the STIs crap out. They'll probably last longer, and I'm not in a race.

You get used to them fast and don't have to worry about smashing them when the bike receives mild abuse.

I bought some nice winter cycling boots (my old, cheaper ones were falling apart and the new ones were 40% off).

Is it possible to hook them up to cross country skis somehow? Other than the cleat, a ski boot is essentially identical to my cycling boots. Cycling in my winter outfit with studded tires is pleasant, but a lot of roads around here either don't get plowed at all or become so narrow that it doesn't feel safe to ride on them, so I was planning on spending some more time skiing next winter (I've gone before, but only with rental stuff).

>>1071969
Just get some friction shifters fambalam

How difficult would a 5% grade over 10km be?

>>1072019
Depends on what kind of shape you're in.

Do you ride your bike at all? How far? How often? Have you ever gone up a hill before?

>>1072019
I'd carefully look at the elevation profile. Even a smooth 5% is going to be a lot of work, more if you are limited in your low end gearing. If there is a lot of variation in the profile you can expect spots well in excess of 5%. I did one last year with a 4% average that had a half dozen 20% spots.

Pro tip: don't bother taking a running start at it.

How does one drift on a bike?
I'm an /o/tist with no money for a rwd drive car, I was riding my bike today and realized it was basically rwd. I was trying to break traction on the back wheel but couldn't really do it. How can I do some hektik skidz?

>>1072030
Fast sharp sandy turns

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>>1072030
10/10

so I bought a nice new 11speed group of ebay for way to cheap.

now I wanted to just put it on my steel roadbike.
but maybe I should just upgrade.

I could get a good deal on a giant defy from 2006.

is this "too old"
should I look for something more recent ?

so I bought a nice new 11speed group of ebay for way to cheap.

now I wanted to just put it on my steel roadbike.
but maybe I should just upgrade.

I could get a good deal on a giant defy from 2006.

is this "too old"
should I look for something more recent ?
repost from the bqg , might be more appropriate here

>>1072062
>>1072063

what the fuck did I just do here ?!

anyway.

the guy wrote the defy is from 2006.
my research suggests that the defy exists since 2009.
the one he ownes was specced with ultegra with non aero brifters , has dropped seatstays and a black and white paint job

>>1072021
I bike a few km every day, but it's very slow and leisurely so I don't really exert myself at all. I want to start getting more serious and doing long distance trips this year.

Is there a way to make old centerpull brakes stronger? I have a pair of Dia Compe calipers on my OTS (27inch to 700c conversion). I already disassembled them and greased the bushings, which helped. Also I put big V-brake pads on them and tuned them very close to the rims. They're also in pretty good condition, almost new old stock.

But they still squizz so weakly compared to modern long-reach sidepulls. I'm not so comfy with them on long winding descents. Should I just replace them?

Just bought a MicroSHIT ARSis 11 groupset.

I refuse to let Shimano become a monopoly.

Also for the price they're light as fuck.

>>1072081
Going up a 5% grade for 10 km straight will be fairly difficult without any more training. You'll probably want to start by getting used to a shorter climb.
If your 10 km climb is conveniently located, just go for it without expecting to make it all the way up on the first few tries. Just work on making your ascents sustainable. When you've exhausted yourself, you can just turn around and roll down.

Any detractors for using T9 on a road bike? Been using for a while and considering buying in bulk to save

>>1072084
You could try new pads. Cool stops maybe

>>1072084
Yes

Anyone else suffer from shitty local shops? We have one small independent and one small chain with a few across the county (UK). The former doesn't stock anything but cheap hybrids etc but the owner is nice enough; the latter is cold and unwelcoming and after getting an older mtb serviced there I don't know if I value their mechanical prowess. It just seems like they're only interested in their rich Fred customers and everyone else is a nuisance. I struggle to put any trust in them even though they're well reviewed and everyone says they're great.

It's a pain in the arse because I don't really want to risk buying a bike online without trying the fit and position etc but don't seem to be left with much choice.

What is the best food to bring along for a 4-6 hour bike ride?

>>1072123
I don't suffer from this, but I know your pain. All small local shops carry shit-tier brands. I want to buy quality, not target brand trash.

We all work too damn hard for our money to be blowing it on low tier trash.

>>1072125
I'm probably being a bit harsh given that they have plenty of great reviews and I have to admit I'm not the best customer given how averse I am to spending money. It just seems they're too focused on their "whale" customers to give a shit about new customers who could become one in time.

It's just hard to justify spending a premium for almost non-existent service.

How's this frame?

Looking to build a bike on the cheap with a campagnolo or sram groupset.

https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/cube-nature-allroad-frame-black-flashgreen-grey-630389/wg_id-254

does /n/ have a discord?

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What should be fixed there first? I've wiped frame and chain off dust and rust since that pic.
Is chain too loose or front wheel mounted backwards? Apply varnish to back rim to prevent rusting, change grips?

Want to turn a quill steam on my old road bike into threadless.

Is this gonna work?

https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=9335;menu=1000,4,25;pgc%5B16142%5D=16143

https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=126594;menu=1000,4,25;pgc%5B56%5D=18169

I measured it the numbers should fit.

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I'm looking to buy an old bike, but I'm not really familiar what to look at. I'm about 6 feet (183cm) tall so that means that the frame hight should be about 58-59cm. I know it's usually better to provide better numbers but I can't really measure myself at the moment. Anyway I was looking at that old bike (pic related). It's Peugeot Chamonix, 60cm frame, has 14 gears, Shimano (it's not mentionted what exactly). I can see some rust around and on the chain however. Is it worth it for 140 euros? Also should I ask about more details?

>>1071930
>Recently discovered all my chain ring bolts were loose, wtf.
LocTite is your friend. Probably blue, that's the kind most often used on bike bolts.
>Also, the only thing that still makes noise on my bike is the rear hub when it free wheels, sound like maybe it has dirt in it, it doesn't click click click like it used to. Do I take the cassett off to clean this?
Sounds like an issue inside the freehub body. If you want to clean/overhaul the freehub body, yes you'll need to remove the cassette but you'll also need to take apart the freehub body which will require some special tools and is more in depth than people will typically do at home without a workshop. If you're a competent mechanic and want to try it yourself, look up guides on how to overhaul a freehub body. Otherwise stop by a LBS and have them do it for you.
Btw I'm not saying that overhauling the freehub body is definitely the solution to what you're experiencing, that would just be my first guess.

>>1072168
Check chain for wear, replace if needed, clean and lube if not. Adjust tension. Fit, and contact points.

>>1072019
If you have a low gear ratio and don't push yourself too hard at the beginning and just do a slow steady pace and are okay with riding steady at like 12km/h, then it will be easy, it will just take a while.

For reference, when I rode my old ten speed (80s steel road bike) up a canyon for 23 kilometers with an average grade of 5.8% (having ridden a half hour from home to the base of the canyon), it took me 2 hours to get from the bottom to the top, and that was on a bike with bad gearing for climbing (I would have liked a lower gear ratio). First time I did it I started getting a little tired around 18km in but didn't really struggle at all even in the later part, and the second time I didn't get tired at all. I do a lot of cycling and have been a cyclist for several years, but I don't do much climbing because I don't typically live in a mountainous area.
Obviously there's many factors that will affect if it's easier or more difficult for you, that's just my experience.

>>1072179
>Fit, and contact points.
What does it exactly mean?

>>1072124
Clif bars and energy gels (Clif Shot gels are my favorite)
>>1072166
No, nor any other third party discussion place. Everything is right here on /n/.
>>1072173
Look at it in person. Test ride it. Inspect the chain, chainrings, freewheel, cables, housing, brake pads, and tires for wear/damage. Check that the wheels are true. Feel all the spokes to check for loose or broken spokes (replacing a spoke is sometimes an option, but an old wheel with really loose or broken spokes, or that's badly out of true, may have to be replaced). When buying used it's normal to have to make a few adjustments and replace a few parts, and assuming it doesn't need a lot of work, the price seems reasonable. However, if it needs to have everything replaced then it may or may not be worth it depending on how much you like the bike.
It's certainly worth looking at in person, inspecting, and test riding. I would probably buy it if I was in your place.

>>1072168
Front wheels don't really have a forwards and backwards usually. People usually put the quick release lever on the left side and may determine the direction of the wheel by the direction of the text on the hub but it doesn't really matter.
Yes, the chain is a bit loose. You'll want to loosen the locknuts holding the rear wheel to the frame, then pull the wheel further back in the dropouts then tighten them. It can be tricky and take a few tries to get it tightened down while far enough back to have no slack in the chain. Make sure that you get the wheel in straight, with that type of dropouts it's easy to accidentally get it crooked.
You may want to replace the chain, at least lube it (use bike lube, DO NOT USE WD40 or anything not specifically made for bike chains).
Inspect the tires to make sure there's nowhere that's really worn down, no major damage, because if there is, that could cause your tubes to blow out.
Get a tire pump if you don't have one and check your tire pressure before each ride, tires lose air from just sitting for a few days. Maximum recommended pressure will be labeled on the sidewall of the tire, and if you ride at too low of a pressure, it will be inefficient and put you at risk of flats.
>>1072182
I believe he means points where you contact the bike, so moving your seatpost higher/lower, seat forward/back, bars and stem higher/lower, etc to accomodate your height, arm length, leg length etc.
And when he said adjust tension he was probably talking about cable tension for brakes. And yeah you should definitely check that your brakes have adequate tension and are centered, and are functioning well. If they have adequate tension and still don't stop you well, make sure the brake pads are positioned correctly and not worn down/in need of replacement.

>>1072168
Oh and install a rear brake. And re-route so that your right brake lever goes to rear brake and left brake lever goes to front brake (that's personal preference but that's how almost everyone rides).

>>1072173
Ask for the kind of tubing the frame is made from (there should be a sticker close to the bottom bracket on the seat tube. I think it looks like a decent but low quality frame. The components also seem to be entry grade, as far as I can tell. The brakes seem to be newer. Were they replaced? If so, with what? Might be a decent one. Hubs and derailleur group name would be helpful.
Your money will give you a solid and quite nicely preserved French 90s steel road bike frame, yet with an interesting ride, since you'll get yourself biopace, which means oval chain rings and a very different riding experience. You might like it, you might not. Probably the first thing you will be likely to change.

>>1072191
There is rear brake inside, it works when pedaling backwards. Pretty deadly, when i jump off bike at zebra and apply all weight on one pedal moving it 90 degrees back, bike stops completely.
>>1072188
Thx, i've read about good and bad ideas to clean chain with hot liquids not preserving factory oil. Last years i used oil for sewing machines but barely wiped it so dirt would be staying in.
Brakes work fine, never had inevitable collisions incoming, opposed to previous citybike with 20" wheels. And i'm left-handed.
Tires are CST 2.8-4.5 Bar,, got a pumps yet have no manometer on it like in bike store.
Other hints are so well-explaining basic things, shed a tear there.

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>>1072185
I can do that but what am I supposed to be looking at in terms of chain and chainrings? They look a bit rusty and in bad condition(pic related). How much would it cost to change them? The tires don't really bother me, cause I can change them quickly and replace them with some cheap ones. Other than that the break pads looked in good condition from the other pics and thanks for the spokes tip.
>>1072192
I'm pretty sure the frame is made from steel. Otherwise I'm not really picky, actually that's gonna be my first road bike. Until now I've always had a mountain bike.

>>1072217
Frame is mangalloy, sorry.

>>1072220
mangalloy is a steel alloy. Its a good frame at the entry level. Nothing fancy nothing shabby but stiff and not too heavy.

>>1072211
>Thx, i've read about good and bad ideas to clean chain with hot liquids not preserving factory oil. Last years i used oil for sewing machines but barely wiped it so dirt would be staying in.
If your chain is really dirty: Start with bicycle degreaser/solvent such as Dumonde Citrus Solvent (which smells very good btw, kids/pets might think it's a treat, so keep it away from them). Use that to wipe down/clean the chain. After that, apply bicycle-specific lubricant to the full length of the chain. Let it sit for 10 minutes to sink in. Then wipe it off. The outside of the chain should end up dry, the lube is meant to penetrate. Lube left sitting on the outside just attracts dirt.
If your chain is only a little dirty: You can skip the degreaser/solvent and go straight to the lube. When you wipe off the excess lube (after letting it sit 10 minutes) that will help clean the chain a bit.
>Tires are CST 2.8-4.5 Bar,, got a pumps yet have no manometer on it like in bike store.
Definitely a good idea to have a pump that has a pressure gauge. That would be one of the first things I recommend investing in.

>>1072217
>I can do that but what am I supposed to be looking at in terms of chain and chainrings?
With the chainrings and freewheel cogs, look at the teeth to see if they are worn. If they are in good condition, the teeth will have flat tops, and the troughs between the teeth will be rounded. If they are worn out, it will kind of be the opposite: The teeth will be pointy, and the troughs between the teeth will be flat and sorta rectangular.
Regarding the chain, all you can really visible do is look for bad links or see if it looks dirty/dry/rusty. Ideally you should measure it for stretch but you need a special tool for that, a ruler or tape measure is not accurate enough. Chains have to be replaced often anyway so just expect you may have to replace it, stop by a LBS and ask them to measure it for stretch after you buy the bike.
Brake pads sometimes have to be replaced on old bikes even if they don't look worn down, because the rubber gets hard with age, giving them substantially less stopping power. I wouldn't avoid buying the bike because of this though, it's just expected when buying an old bike that you'll likely have to replace the pads.
Regarding cost it really depends on what quality components you want, if you have the tools to do the labor yourself, how much the LBS charges, how many parts you have to replace. If you want a better idea I recommend looking at websites that sell bike parts to see the price ranges of individual parts.
As an EXTREMELY ROUGH guideline on bike shop labor charges, it's about $20 USD for a single repair (i.e. a derailleur install, OR a derailleur adjust, OR a cassette replacement, etc). But that varies a lot depending on the repair and the shop.
>I'm pretty sure the frame is made from steel. Otherwise I'm not really picky, actually that's gonna be my first road bike. Until now I've always had a mountain bike.
Protip: Bring a little magnet with you. If the magnet sticks to the frame, it's steel. If not, it's aluminum.

>>1072242
> alu
Look at the pictures. He won't need a magnet to tell its steel. Protip: Rust.

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>>1072242
Thanks for the reply. I think I'll be able to do everything myself, cause I kinda find those things interesting and I'll get the tools from a friend. As for the frame - pic related, I missed that photo at first. If the frame has a bit of rust on top and it's not deep it shouldn't be hard to get rid of it right?

>>1072251
>*buys french bike*
>I think I'll be able to do everything myself
u dun goofed

>>1072262
I wanted to say that I'd love to learn.

trying to teach my lil bro to ride

can someone recommend good bike for 10 y/o to learn on

thanks in advance

>>1072251
If it's just a little bit of rust, get some citric acid (comes in powder form, you mix it with water). Use that and/or steel wool to remove the rust.

>>1072267
Go to a LBS and buy a kids bike. With kids bikes it doesn't really matter. LBSs sometimes sell used kids bikes cheap.

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I'm trying to line up my mechanical disc brakes by the usual procedure

- loosening adjustment bolts
- tightening cable so the caliper clamps to the rotor.
- tightening the adjustment bolts
- backing off the cable.

But when I back off the cable the clearance is appearing on the inboard side, even though it's obviously the outboard pad I'm backing out when I loosen that barrel adjuster. I'm stumped as to why.
Brakes are Hayes CX expert on 2015 Trek 520.

>>1072322
Update:
Just tried this starting with the adjustment bolts completely off, and I can see that with the caliper clamped to the rotor, the threaded holes on the bracket are almost in the middle of the slots on the caliper, but for some reason, the caliper is being pulled inboard when I tighten the bolts. How the fuck?

Would it be stupid to have only a rear break?

>>1072330
Your stopping distance will be shit, your rear tyre wear will be very fast.
I don't know your situation though; maybe these tradeoffs are worth whatever reason you only want a rear brake?

>>1072332
Just for a city bike, it's a disc break so it's not going to wear the rim. Its just that I found a really good deal on a rear disc break but the store no longer stocks the front to match.

Guys I have a pretty dumb question: How do you do a full once over of your bike to know how to look for any issues?

I have a decent road bike (2007 Cannondale Synapse 3) I bought like 5 years ago used but started riding it more regularly (commuting and such) only a year ago but I still don't know shit about bike repairs and upkeep, To give an idea I just cleaned my chain for the first time (like with degreaser and all that) since buying it literally two months ago, and I've never changed the chain or brakes or anything

At a bike shop, their "full service" costs like $200 which is crazy

>>1072340
It's not really necessary, most problems with the bike you will notice as soon as you try to ride it.

The only thing that can go unnoticed as a safety issue is leaving the quick release undone. Also you may want to spin the wheels off the ground from time to time to see how much resistance is in the hubs so you know when they need to be repacked.
But yeah, anything else you will notice right away.

>>1072340
Also, I've learned to adjust gears, brakes, replace cables, replace chain and cogs, and repack the hubs from YouTube tutorials. Once you can do those things, you'll only really need to to take the bike in to get wheels trued, which they SHOULD only charge you about $50 for.

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I have bought some handlebar tape to cover my gel grips on my commuting beater, since the surface rubbed off and they became prone to get dirty with gunk and shit, and my hands too. Bike is dark blue, tape is literally the same exact color, since I won't need that much tape to wrap the grips anyway (most of it won't be used) should I use some to wrap the top tube since the paintjob is getting worn out?

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just got one of these. what am i in for? it feels so solid and rides very smooth, much better than my old schwinn super sport from the 1990s. i'm told it's from the 80s. Panasonic DX 2000

>>1072394
No, that's gonna look like shit
And why are you putting tape over old grips? Why not just get new grips?

Is there any reason to switch from threaded to threadless fork? Bike is 90's rigid with 1-1/8" headset.

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Where should I look for steel frames with vertical dropouts? Are they a modern conception? I don't think I've ever come across an old steel frame with them, and I hate fucking aligning the wheel

>>1072417
I don't know about you, but I've always had trouble getting the proper tightness on a threaded headset/fork combo, it's always either too tight and the headset becomes "indexed", or not tight enough so it loosens itself after riding for a while. This is a non-issue with threadless.
Also it's easier to switch stems, no need to undo the bartape and remove brake levers and shit

>>1072169
It's gonna work, I don't know what do you expect to get from it, but in general it'll work

I just paid £15.63 for a Schwalbe Marathon 700x35 delivered. Did I overpay? Should I buy new inners for a new tyre?

>>1072431
Eh, sounds about right. And a new tube isn't necessary, but it'd be ideal.
And how come you only bought a single one and not a pair?

my friends mtb has discbrakes, but when i tightned his rear brake (it wasnt even coming near the disc) and tried testing it, its hitting the disc just fine, really good actualy, but its just not braking?
what can that be?

>>1072435
the pads are hitting the disc but really really little is happening

>>1072435
Probably dirty pads or rotor. I've had pads that were contaminated right out of the package and had no stopping power until they were cleaned.

>>1072439
so how would i go by cleaning them?
havent dont it before, but i assume brake cleaner?
heard u can cand the pads with light sandpaper?

>>1072440
heard u can sand*

>>1072434
I bought a pair but I thought math would be easier listed as just one. Inners kinda expensive so I might reuse the old one for a bit.

>>1072441
Let me help you with that.

>So how would I go about cleaning them?
>I haven't done it before, but I assume I need to use break cleaner.
>I heard you can sand the pads with light sandpaper.
>Can you confirm my suspicions?

>>1072445
sorry i wanna make sure i dont fuck something up..

>>1072446
>Sorry, I want to make sure I don't fuck something up.

>>1072440
I use brake cleaner on the rotor.

Pads can be trickier since oil can get absorbed into them. You may need to remove them to give them a proper cleaning / soaking. I've tried lightly blowtorching mine which seemed to work well, but I've seen people saw that can weaken the bond between pad material and backing plate.

>>1072454
thanks ill give it a try, hope the pads havnt soaked too much in

Im going to be riding about 1.5 hours a day on mostly bike paths in the city.
I did it last year on a shitty bike.

I want to get a new bike, but have no idea what i should be buying. I'd like to spend around 300 maple bucks.
Is a bike from a box store like canadian tire really that bad? all bike stores I can find cheapest bike is 450-500 which is too much for me.
Something like http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/supercycle-700c-circuit-bike-0711720p.html

>>1072422
Now that you mention it I remember I've been putting of lightening the headset because it feels loose.

>>1072463

Yes, they really are that bad- it'll break and be an absolute pain as you'll be replacing/fixing parts way more than you should. Look for a decent second-hand bike- you'll get far better components for your money

Does anybody know if shimano 105 5600 shifters are compatible with 105 5800 front mechs? Bought a new bike which has a sora triple mech on a tiagra double chainset, with 105 5600 shifters, and I want to put my 105 5800 front mech on as the sora isn't reliable- it keeps on pushing the chain too far and off onto the crankarm. Would this work or are the pull ratios different? I've seen that 5600 levers are compatible with 5700, but I'm not sure about 5800. Given that the only real difference between 5700 and 5800 is 10sp vs 11sp, I was pretty hopeful, but was wondering if anyone had any insight?

at what point do I need new tires

>>1072463
With that kind of budget it probably not worth replacing what you got unless your current bike is extraordinarily shitty. If there is a specific issue with it like brakes or shifting, just lookup youtube videos on how to fix it, its not like you have anything to lose. Gears are frequently a problem because people think the limit screws are how you adjust the gears instead of the barrel adjuster.

If your current bike has knobby tires, try a pair of slicks which will roll better and give you more grip on pavement.

>>1072518
When you get punctures frequently
When the sidewalls are cracked
When the thread has disappeared
When there are big gashes all over it

>>1072521
The front tire popped and the breaks were barely working.

>>1072539
Them's the brakes.

>>1072540
Yeah, basically.
I rode it 30 minutes home on a flat tire.
I just don't have a lot to drop on a bike

>>1072548
>I rode it 30 minutes home on a flat tire.
RIP wheel

>>1072517
It should work. According to Sheldon, it doesn't make much difference how many cogs you have when selecting a front derailleur. See:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html
>>1072518
When the tread is visibly worn down, or when they have visible damage. You just don't want to wear them down to the point where it's thin enough for the tube to blow out.
>>1072463
At that price, if you don't want something completely shit, buy used. Check Craigslist or your local equivilent, find some bikes in your size that look good to you, then post the links in /bbg/ >>>/n/bbg to get our advice on the specific bikes you find.

>>1072548
Instead of buying a new bike, learn how to fix a fucking flat.

>>1072435
Assuming mechanical brakes: You likely tightened it in the wrong spot, such that the caliper is bottoming out. Even if your lever is not bottoming out (not hitting your bar) and it looks like the pads are fully engaged, the pivoting part of the caliper is hitting the fixed part of the calliper before the pads are fully engaged (they might be fully contacting the disc, just not with enough force). To resolve this, you need to REMOVE tension from the cable, and then move the brake pads inward (you may have pad adjustors for both pads, if so just turn them in; if you only have a pad adjuster for one pad, then loosen caliper mount bolts, move caliper so that the fixed pad is closer to rotor, tighten bolts, then use the pad adjuster to move the other pad in). Reason for removing tension from the cable is that now when you're not applying the brake, the pivot point is farther away from bottoming out, so when you pull the brake, the pads will fully engage without the caliper bottoming out (bottoming out as in the pivot part hitting the fixed part of the caliper).
If that doesn't resolve it then you may have contaminant such as oil on pads and/or rotor, or pads may be worn down; in that case you need to replace them.

If they're hydraulic brakes, then you either need to bleed them (go to LBS for this) or you have an issue with pads and/or rotor (contaminant such as oil, or pads worn down)
>>1072431
>new tubes
No point unless the old ones are leaking or like a decade+ old.
>>1072422
>had trouble getting the proper tightness
You may have worn bearings or contaminants in your headset bearings. Taking it apart, cleaning it, and putting it back together with new bearings and fresh grease will likely help substantially.

>>1072340
Check bearings for play and roughness. Headset, bottom bracket, and hubs. They should spin freely without roughness, and they should have no play if you rock them. If they are rough, loosen them. If they have play, tighten them. If you cannot get a medium with no roughness and no play, they have to be overhauled (replace grease and bearings).

Check chain for stretch. Requires special tool. Stop by LBS and ask them to measure your chain for stretch, they'll do it free. Riding with a stretched chain wears out your other components faster and if you go too long your chain can break mid ride which can be a big annoyance. Ideally replace at 0.75% stretch, and NEVER wait longer than 1% stretch.

Check sprockets (chainrings, cassette/freewheel cogs, rear derailleur pulleys) for wear. If they are in good condition, the tops of the teeth will be flat, and the troughs between the teeth will be curved/round. If they are worn, it will be kinda opposite: Teeth will be pointy, and the troughs will be square-ish. If you have to replace your chainrings and/or cassette, you should replace your chain at the same time. However, if your chain is stretched but your sprockets are still good, you can replace just your chain (but if you mistakenly think your sprockets are good and replace only the chain, riding a new chain on worn sprockets will cause your drive train to skip; if this happens, it tells you that your sprockets are worn out too)

Check brake pads for wear

Check wheels for wobble (in which case they have to be trued) and feel the spokes to check for any that are really loose.

Inflate tires to the pressure recommended on the sidewall BEFORE EVERY RIDE. They lose air even just sitting for a few days. Riding at low pressure makes you go slow and makes you get flat tires due to the low-pressure tube deforming when you hit bumps/potholes and getting pinched.

>>1072340
Lube chain when it's dry/noisy, or every 100-150 miles ridden. If chain/sprockets are visibly dirty, use bike-specific solvent to clean them first. Dumonde Citrus Solvent is great, but smells like candy so keep away from kids/pets. When lubing, lube full length of chain with bike-specific lube, then let it sit for 10 minutes to sink in, then wipe it off. You want to wipe off all the lube from the outside of the chain, because lube is only to sink into the chain's internals. Lube leftover on the outside accomplishes nothing except attracting dirt and wearing out your components. New chains come with factory grease so you can go 200-300+ miles with a new chain before lubing it the first time.

If brakes and derailleurs aren't working well, adjust them, or if necessary, replace cables and housing. Rear shifting issues can also be due to bent derailleur hanger.

The first two links in the OP post have tutorials on all repairs you would ever need to do. If you lack the tools or confidence to do it yourself, stop by a LBS.

>>1072539
Wait... so you're going to buy a new bike because you got a flat tire and your brakes need adjustment? I worked at a LBS for 2 years and you are a bigger faggot and retard than any customer I have ever interacted with (and I've interacted with some retarded people, there was even a literal retard in the shop once who quacked like a duck, you're even more retarded than him).
And yeah if you rode 30 minutes with a flat your wheel may be fucked.
Now just fix your fucking flat and fix your fucking brakes you fucking faggot fuck. Fuck.

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>>1072407

Because it works, I tried this shit for a few hundred miles and it's perfect, it was meant as a filler solution that ended up being better than the original, tight as fuck tape over gel grips is good.

>>1072565

Oh and, since you worked at a LBS, mind telling me if there's a DIY way to see if the back wheel is centered? Other than the tire in the water trick.

>>1072589
What do you mean by centered? Centered in the dropouts (if horizontal dropouts), or trued/dished properly, or what?
>tire in the water trick
What? Only thing I'm aware of people using water for is submerging a leaking tube in water to find the leak.

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>>1072593

When you have a derailleur hanger the bolt makes it so that the axle only goes halfway to the right, all the way to the left. To center the wheel (halfway to the left too) is a guessing game, eye guess, some people say "sit on the bike before locking it up and it'll center the wheel" but it's a lie.

>>1072597
Um... what? You are making no sense. I have no idea what you are trying to say. What bolt? What type of axle (quick release, bolt on, thru axle)?

The only reason I would think you would sit on a bike before "locking it up" (you mean closing the QR lever?) would be to get the wheel all the way in the dropouts but you don't have to sit on it to do that, you can just take the bike out of the stand and set it on the floor to do that.

If that's what you're referring to, it's a hell of a lot easier than you're making it out to be. Just have the bike on the ground (you can do it in a stand but it's easier on the ground), make sure wheel is fully in dropouts, this is easy to tell visually. Then close the QR. It doesn't take any trick or anything, just look.

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Am I using these wrong? No matter how many times I ride over them I never get a speed boost.

Recommend me some good but still cheap slick/semi-slick tires for riding on bike paths, sidewalks, road, and occasionally a bit of dirt for shortcuts. 26x2.125 I believe. Also, I need a spare inner tube. I was going to get a cheap $5 goodyear one from walmart, but figured they were probably trash when I saw the Kent label.

>>1072658
gatorskins

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>>1072612

Time for gorilla painting.

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Guys, what bike is this in the pic? I've been looking for a sweet 90's MTB for a while and this one looks awesome.

>>1072597
You have a shit bike. Buy a real one.
>>1072612
On some bike boom shitters the dropouts are forward facing horizontal dropouts with a slide in hanger that take up bolt space in the actual dropout fork. That means the left sliding dropout will be its full length, but the right only about half. It's a shit hack for shit bikes for shit people, but given this Mongolian felt quilting forums affinity for dumpster diving and glorification of decades old trash - I'm not surprised to find some neet who fell for the meme starting to find out what piece of trash he's riding.
>>1072702
>posts pic of the front wheel
You useless cunt.

>>1072658
Sammy Slick. If you hadn't said cheap there'd be loads more options, but SSS is possibly the cheapest semi that makes sense.
Conti Supersonic tubes are nice and doesn't leak as much as latex. Assuming you must have butyl tubes. And assuming you can't run tubeless. Do if you can.

>>1072703

It's a normal bike for normal people. It's ok if your knowledge is limited to fredshit, but it's a thing.
>It depends on the bike. On some bikes simply having the axle all the way seated in the dropouts is sufficient to center the wheel, but in others (generally ones with a bolt-on derailer hanger) the wheel is not self-centering.

>For this latter case (or if you're a perfectionist with the other type) you look at the spacing between the tire and the frame, after "hitting bottom" on the shallower dropout slot. (Look at the space between horizontal chain stays for horizontal dropouts, and the space between the diagonal seat stay for vertical dropouts.) The same amount of space should be visible on both sides of the tire.

>Before centering, get the QR properly adjusted (should require significant force to close all the way, but not Herculean effort). Then partially close the QR to create some friction, adjust the wheel looking at the space around the tire, and then close the QR completely. Once you get used to it, centering the wheel this way takes only another 5-10 seconds.

>>1072716
>"""normal people""" ride three decades old shit that wasnt even good in its day
Cool story bro. Let me see your rusted up Ford Pinto, your normal car for normal people. Your original Walkman with Duran Duran cassette tapes, the normal portable music player with normal music for normal people. But of course, all these were actually higher end within their category in their time than the supermarket bike boom """bikes""" ever were.

IOW, get a fucking job and buy a non-BSO bike made this decade, you hippies. They're fucking three days wages for a proper one. How NEET are you?

>>1072560
ok we will give that a try with the brakes, its a mecanical, and when he pulls the lever it nearly engages right at the top, so what ur saying with the pivoting point sounds pretty relevant here

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What's the age and bf% cutoff points to qualify as MAMIL? Or can you be /fit/ and MAMIL simultaneously?

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Very new to all this, how do I figure out what kind of saddle I like? The pain = gain factor of these hard leather fuckers greatly appeals to me.

What is the /n/ doctrine on saddles?

>>1072824
>What is the /n/ doctrine on saddles?
Try a bunch of different ones until you find one that fits your ass

>>1072830
I feel you but the whole idea of those leather ones is that they DON'T fit your ass until you ride on them for 300 miles, up to which point it is excruciating pain

>>1072832
And the 301th mile happens to be interrupted by pouring rain and the saddle is ruined. Enjoy your floppy leather hammock.
>>1072824
The leather saddles are considered good because they adapt their width and shape slightly to your buttocks and inner thighs. They're hard enough that your weight is carried by your seat bones and not your soft parts, meaning no blood flow restriction and no nerve damage to your peenor. The downside is that you will be sore in the area of your seat bones until you have adapted. This is true of hard synthetic saddles with little padding as well - the first few trips will leave you sore, but they're less pain in the long run. It's your arse adapting to the saddle and not the other way around.
They're also shiny and slippery, so friction and sores are greatly reduced.

There is absolutely no reason why you couldn't get the exact same properties in a synthetic saddle. Just buy one with the right width and cut, little padding and a low friction surface. There you have your hipster saddle advantages but with zero maintenance and no fucks given about rain or spray.

>>1072840
>There is absolutely no reason why you couldn't get the exact same properties in a synthetic saddle
This is basically what I wanted to hear, the hipster appeal to me is not worth the pricepoint and finicky material if I can get the same comfort benefits from a synthetic.

>>1072824
>>1072832
>>1072841
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/leather.html

Good read

Can anyone recommend a good wheel security skewer

All the good ones cost about $60, anything under and it is apparently a 1 star piece of shit

>>1072899
Just get regular hex ones and stick a ball bearing with hot glue inside the nut

>>1072901
but then I wouldn't be able to use it

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I have a leather saddle (Selle Italia Turbo Matic 2). The other day I rode under the rain, and now the saddle looks a bit worn out. What can I do to restore its previous lushness? Preferably homemade solutions

>>1073016
leather patinates over time, and probably you won't be able to change it much, but if you rub a small amount of the leather treatment of your choice (there are many options, it doesn't really matter which you pick in this case) into the cover and it will regain some of its gloss and smoothness.

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Where to mount this?

It is my favorite bluetooth speaker, has a really nice warm tone and bass enough to handle SLEEP and CONAN. I can mount it beneath the seat or on the rear rack but then everybody can hear it except me.

>>1073018
Would shoe polish help at all?
>>1073019
Nowhere, you annoying negro

>>1073019
I'm thinking a front rack like this but I want something much smaller
>>1073020
I know it's annoying but it's non-negotiable, my addiction to music playing 24 hours a day is not something that will be overcome, and headphones are dangerous.

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>>1073021
forgot pic

>>1073019
Blasting music in public while riding is straight up nigger behavior.

go fuck yourself

>>1073025
nah it varies per region, culturally. i live in an area where it is acceptable. i saw a white woman doing it just today

>>1073027
It's never acceptable, you're just a nigger, and that goes double if you're white

>>1073029
I don't agree with or share your values, in fact I think they're repugnant. You live in a dull grey world without meaning or magic.

>>1073033
Yeah, no, I just understand that "meaning and magic" are things to keep to myself and share with those with whom I have a personal relationship, not force on everyone who just happens to be within earshot of me due to bad luck.

>>1073036
You literally have to be within feet of my bicycle to hear it, and I tend to take solitary rides. But why the fuck am I justifying myself to you? I have no idea what is behind your ridiculous vendetta but you need to pick something more worthwhile in which to invest your emotions.

>>1073037
There are at least two of us with this "ridiculous vendetta", my first post is >>1073029

Get it through your thick skull, nobody likes your shit. It's rude, tacky, and you should feel embarrassed.

>>1073038
I don't and no amount of crying on your part will convince me anyways. It is extremely in the beach town where I live, about 1/3 of cyclists have some sort of speaker attached and are far less considerate than I and have far worst taste in music.

Flowers literally bloom in my wake as I past, dicks get erect and pussies get moist. My pity for you is immense.

>>1073038
>>1073036
>>1073029
>>1073025
I don't see the big deal ... if you're in an urban environment there's already tons of noise pollution and people blasting music out of their car stereos; no bluetooth speaker is going to compete with that.

If I out on a picturesque nature ride and somebody was blasting music it would probably piss me off though.

>>1073043
>city's already dirty so I'll just throw my trash anywhere

>>1073021
>headphones are dangerous.
Earphones aren't, as long as the volume allows you to also listen to your surroundings

>>1073045
I don't consider it to be trash. I grew up in the countryside and I fucking hated it. I love the menagerie of human noises in the city. I live near a nightclub and it blasts throbby bass music all night and it makes me happy that people are alive and experiencing joy. I totally get that everybody doesn't feel this way and that's fine. Your analogy is a false equivalency for several reasons besides.

>>1073043
When I'm on a trail I always turn the music down/off when I pass somebody else, unless I'm flying by them and then it serves as a "on your left" (they can't hear it until I'm RIGHT behind them).

>>1073038
Also I'd like to point out that my whole query is about positioning the speaker to maximize its audibility for myself, and minimize it for others. So if you really believe the bullshit you're saying, give me advice on how to do it.

>>1073021
Do what I do. I had a pair of earbuds where one broke (the left one). I swapped out the buds on them so that they had the smallest that came with them on there and then I'd only leave them halfway in my ear. You can hear your surroundings well enough and you still have the other ear. Obviously keep your head on a swivel the whole time and you should be good. keep volume down to where you can still hear shit too of course

how do I get back into riding after recovering from being a cripple without looking like an idiot? I really dont want to slap on me jerseys and be a fool riding at 15kmh..

>>1073090
Ride in street clothes. Duh,

What's a good torque wrench?

>>1072563
not him, but this is really good info
thanks

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I went to the LBS and asked if I should get a seperate gauge or a better pump to accurately set pressures on my MTB. He suggested I buy this Bontrager pump.
I then specifically asked if this would really be accurate enough and he seemed quite confident that I won't need anything more.

I just "checked" the pressure on my MTB tires, the needle barely moved from zero. All I can tell from the gauge is that the pressure is less than 1 bar or 20psi... can't really say if its 0,4 or 0,8 or whatever.

Is this "normal"? How is this supposed to help me adjust the pressure?

>>1073150
Oh btw. I tried it on my road bike too. I had 28mm tires at 3,5 bar (which did feel a bit soft) or so and then pumped up to 4 bars with ease, so I'd say the pump and gauge does "work".

>>1073150
So you just attached the pump to your valve without pumping, right?

Don't know if that's normal, but mine does that too. It doesn't give me a reading until I pumped once.

>>1073153
No no, I know that effect very well. I plugged it in and it showed 0.something. Then I continued to pump the tire and it slowly climbed to almost 1 bar. At this point the tire was already noticeably harder than what I rode last time...

>>1073154
If you got schrader valves on your mtb, drive it to the nearest gas station, they should have a digital pump for cars. There you can check how accurate your gauge is.

So your problem is that you'd like to fine tune the pressure on your mtb with a precision of, let's say, 0.25 bar?

>>1073158
They are presta. This is why I went to the LBS. I was thinking about maybe getting the adapter so I could use the compressors but I checked a few stores and they didn't find any.

And yeah I'd like to at least be able to set the exact same pressure as I had last ride for example. Or maybe I'd like a little harder rear but the front was good etc.

I didn't expect the numbers to be this low but this feels good on the trail, so yeah I guess I'm looking for something that can tell the difference of 0.6 bar and 0.8 bar for example.

>>1073159
Yeah, most pumps aren't that precise. It's already a wonder when they're not too far off with their readings. Maybe you should get a separate pressure gauge that can release air.

So you could pump it up with your floor pump and release the excess air with the gauge to the level you need.

>>1073162
I seems so. I just wonder why the guy at the LBS sold me this pump when I explained what I wanted to do. I even asked him if a separate gauge would be better...

I did some searching and it does seem most people use more pressure than this, so maybe he expected me to use way higher pressures too for whatever reason?

>>1073169
>1.2 Bar (18 Psi) front and back in a standard 2.8 – 3.0 inch tubeless tire. 1.4 Bar (20 Psi) front and back in a standard 2.8 – 3.0 inch tubed tire.

quick google
seems fine

>>1072340
Get the 'DK Bicycle Repair Manual'. It's pretty good.
It's pretty overkill and promotes checking and cleaning much more than you need to but it goes through almost everything.

>>1073016
Don't get leather wet.

Is salt water a problem for bikes? I bought a proper bike a few months ago, but with winter coming I'm a little worried about the spray from the salt river I ride along.

>>1073174
Yes. But this just means you should clean your bike. This is a problem for commuters too since the salt put on the roads can get into their bike too. Keep your bike clean and it's fine, and you need to wash your bike more in winter.

>>1073175
Yeah, figured as much. Thanks

>>1073174
You can wash it like the other anon said, but you can't do much about the BB or the hubs

Re-grease and repack your hubs twice a year and order a replacement BB for when it inevitably self-destructs

Also be careful with your cables, you can't really wash those and when salt gets into the strands it will weaken and break more quickly than if you weren't riding in salt

>>1073171
Yeah but my tires are 2.1 lol. Well they are a bit wider really because of wide rims. I guess I'll do some more testing before drawing any further conclusions.

I can choose between a pair of aksium one wheels that are about a year old and haven't been used much or a set of ksyrium sl from 2008 that have been used but appear to have quite some life in them.

what should I choose ?

>>1072658
Big apple is a safe bet. Not the best at anything but good overall. About 16€ in german shops, dunno about murica

>>1073184
>mavic
Neither, ever. Unless you're a BDSM sub with a fetish for lubing, servicing and replacing shitty glide bearing bodies. And get wet just thinking about those Maxtal rim hole cracks.

>>1073099
check'd

but that's nasty, anon

>>1073173
Well I'm past that

>>1073208
lol wut. I almost always ride in jeans and hoodie, even if I'm just going for a ride in the woods or whatever.

You know the clothes can be washed after that?

Does anyone here know the price of a hongfu carbon frame?

What's a good bike pump that mounts with a water bottle cage? Anything good sub-$20?

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>>1071649
can someone recommend me a really good bike trainer for indoors, either one you put your bike on or one with a bike thats part of the exercise machine?

... noise is important, quiet as possible price range around 200-300 if possible, im not too sure whats on the market besides the stuff i have looked at.

also if it has a bike integrated something you can stand while you pedal. Thank you!!

(if you want to know why its mostly for losing weight, I used to bike a lot in my early 20s and then i had an accident at work and ended up putting on 100 lbs...I really wanna slim down but not sure if i should be riding outside just yet)

>>1073296
how small does it have to be? road or mtb?
I have a Zefal pump and it's pretty good for the size, but seems to cost way more than $20 in USA.

>>1073296
Topeak Pocket Rocket or Pocket Rocket DXII

I'm seeing prices from $17 to $24 online.

>>1073346
mtb, should've clarified, my bad. And yea in the US

Beginner here.

What's the best position for climbing? Everyone is telling me the tops. There's a steep climb (~3km) near me and I tried doing it with the tops and had a hard time, then I did again on a borrowed flat bar road bike with bar ends and the bar ends position was much easier and comfier, despite the borrowed bike being heavy and with heavy 32c tires.

The closest approximation of that position on my road bike is the hoods position, but I keep reading that I shouldn't hoods because I'll tire too fast.

Steady pace here, not racing or anything. Also is it ok to use very slow cadence when climbing? My lowest gear is 34-28. Should I

1.get a granny ring and climb at faster cadence?
2. be ok with my slow cadence because there's nothing you can do about it if the hill's too steep?
3. (preferred) get gud until I can climb that hill at my regular cadence?

Or am I overthinking everything and all I have to do is just go out there and ride until I get gud?

Is it ok to put a SRAM chain on a Shimano drivetrain? I have an Ultegra 6800 group, 11 speed, and the LBS only has the SRAM PC-X1 11 speed chain. Is this optimal?

>>1073391
Dunno about "optimal" but my lbs only carries sram 11 speed chains for some reason so now I have them on both my bikes (105/ultegra), works perfectly fine.

>>1073204
Not him, but are they really that bad? I built a rear wheel for my tourer last year and used a mavic rim. Should I be worried?

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Recon this level of fucked justifies a new+shiny set of pedals? Both are in similar condition, and are on their second set of those plastic insert doodads

>>1073386
>Also is it ok to use very slow cadence when climbing?
A slower cadence puts more stress on the legs, higher cadence is more demanding for your heart/lungs.
As long as your legs are fine afterwards, cadence doesn't really matter.

What's very slow according to you?
A cadence of 70 is 100% good when climbing steeply.

But it's always best to git gud.
And just try it out, you're overthinking it, if you spend all the time thinking on cycling instead, you could just Armstrong 110 rpm up that hill.

What's a good warm-day setup? Today was merely warm but I came back and I looked like a whitewater canoe riding beetroot. Red and soaked. It almost feels like ample water just won't be enough.

>>1073426
Oral rehydration salt (solution).

Or some sports drink.

Or just water.

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My cassette lube and axle lube turned to dirty milkshake and sounded like shit. I re packed everything, how do I keep this from happening its mtb only two month old. Is hosing off my bike a no no?

When I did the cassette it seemed like there was room for one or two more bearings on both inner and outer races, did I loose some ball bearings or is that just the way they are?

Pic unrelated.

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MY bottle cage is all wobbly.
Is there anything to do? Seems like the inner part has unwelded.

>>1073455
Cassette lube? You mean the freehub? I have no idea why you would have to do any of that.. I have a mtb that has original bearings and grease from over 10 years ago, no issues...

I don't ever wash that bike desu. Even with my better bikes I haven't hosed stuff, just bucket and brush.

>>1073457
unwelded?

So it's broken?

If it isn't, then it's bent.

I just bought a stainless steel bottle cage. I hope it's more durable than alu, but it was shit fucking expensive.

>>1073457
If bolt on part it braking away from cage part either re weld, jb weld, some ugly hose clamp or bailing wire, or new cage.

>>1073459
>Update
Yeah I meant freehub

Looking for a single side pannier for holding groceries and commuting. I've been looking at the Carradice shopper and the USPO potters pannier. I have some hesitation over what appears to be a spring bound clip. Things like that could easily break over time.

Max price £70
No leather
Ideally made in UK or EU but willing to buy from anywhere if it is thoughtfully designed

>>1073386
I find the hoods offer the most leverage if you are going to mash up your climb standing.

do #2 until you get to #3

>>1073386
Climb in hoods (do tops briefly from time to time to give your back a break if you are getting sore), descend in drops
>Or am I overthinking everything and all I have to do is just go out there and ride until I get gud?
Yeah pretty much this

>>1073391
At 11 speed it's not ideal but will work.

>>1073409
If it's still functional, keep riding it, faggot. If you do anything else then you're a fucking fred.
>>1073296
If you want good: Topeak Turbo Morph
If you want compact: Something from Lezyne
>>1073120
I like the beam style Park Tool wrenches. Beam style > ratcheting style imo

>>1073120
Btw you'll need two torque wrenches if you'll be using them for a variety of repairs because a single torque wrench doesn't span a wide enough range for all bicycle uses. Some are only rated up to a small amount (like 7Nm), whereas the ones that are rated substantially higher are way too wide of a range to be accurate at small numbers.

Just took my new road bike out for a ride after coming from a hybrid. Had some lower back pain that required me to get off and take a break mid ride. However, once I took a break, the back pain was mostly gone for the rest of the ride. I was just wondering if there is something off with the fit or I just need time to get used to riding in a different position? It probably doesn't help that I've been slacking off on core exercises since I hurt my back a few months back.

>>1071649

some questions for a noob:

is single speed enough for commuting inside a city without hills?

a bike with a 20" wheel, no suspension and without derailer is good for commuting?

am I too big for a bike with 20"wheel configuration? (I am 183cm tall)

>>1073569
1. Single speed is fine for flat.
2. Wheel size is irrelevant. Look up gear inches. Suspension is worthless for commuting unless you're commuting on single-track.
3. Wheel size is irrelevant. Look up gear inches.

Yes
Not good but doable
Yes

>>1073571

1. Thank you
2. Thank you
3. THANK YOU

time to ride my modified BMX and ride it to work. I will look like a monkey in a circus bycicle but meh.

>>1073576
Don't worry, all BMX riders do.

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>>1073331
shameless self bump

>>1073569
Not ideal but can work. Try it and see how it goes, when you're ready for something better then stop by >>>/n/bbg
>>1073560
>bad fit or have to get used to it
Could be one or the other, or both. I occasionally get a sore back if I stay in the drops; taking a break from the drops on the hoods or tops will help relieve it.

>>1073386
I feel like I make the most power in the drops, then hoods and then tops. I only ride in the tops when I feel like I'm about to fall over and die from the climbing (which happens almost every time on a big hill).

Maybe consider a cassette with a 32 cog if you do steep climbs often. I don't think you'll need a much lower gear if you are actually road biking, as in not loaded with heavy stuff, riding on gravel etc.

>>1073409
>>1073546
That'll be a new set then, awh yissss
Might splurge for some nice dura ace 9100 pedals

>>1073331
So you don't own a bike currently?

>>1073658
i do, only thing wrong with it is i dont have a front derailer

>>1073469
It's not the cage I think, because I screwed to the max and still wobbly.
It's the piece inside the downtube with the holes, if that makes sense.

Are there any decent 24" tires?

>>1073662 If the screws tighten up but the base of the cage is still loose then maybe the screws don't fit the cage design and are not camping down correctly. Maybe a couple flat washers could fix it.

>>1073662
Sounds like threaded inserts also referred to as riv nuts. They are installed like rivets and can come loose. If your lbs has a tool for installing them, they can often just screw in the tool and
give it a squeeze to tighten them up.

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Missing anything?

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Repairing cracked carbon rails with fiberglass wrap: Good idea? Crazy idea? Crazy-good idea?

Seat was free from the person who crashed it.

>>1073701
You can do this, but CF would be better.

>bike came with a flipped stem
What did they mean by this? Was that intentional or just poor manufacturing? China, by the way.

>>1073708
It's a common way of adjusting the riding position, nothing to worry about and easy to "fix" if you want to.

>>1073710
I know the reasoning, already flipped it back. I just thought it was really strange coming from the factory like that.

>>1073714
almost every bicycle we build from the bike shop comes with a flipped stem out of the box. Makes it easier to fit inside a box without wasting room

>>1073696
What is the black thing on the right?
Good idea to carry patches as well as a tube in case you get a second flat (unless patches are in the container). Also good idea to have a chain breaker (many multitools come with chain breaker included, some also have spoke wrenches which is nice). Maybe a third lever in case you break one. Really just depends how much you value preparedness vs traveling light

>>1073682
Pasela is nice, but the non-PT version is prone to flats and the PT version doesn't come in 24. If you don't care about puncture resistance, the standard Pasela (which comes in 24) is a great tire.

>>1071653
try Velo Orange

Anyone have a recommended tool bag?

I don't need anything to hang on the frame - just something to keep my stuff more organized in a pannier. I just toss it all in a blag draw-string bag right now and it's kind of a pain to find anything.

Normally carry:
2x inner tubes
multi-tool
patch kits
pump (~14 in /35 cm long)
tire irons
kevlar cord replacement spokes
chain lube
old toothbrush

Other repair stuff lives in there too when I'm touring:
needle & thread
gorilla glue
tent repair patches & pole holders

Could live with the pump separate from the other stuff as I do now, but it would be lovely to have everything neatly organized and accessible. Whole shebang is around 14x6x4 inches

>>1073755
check out Soulrun. Just google them. Nice stuff

>>1073740
The black tube is a usb battery for my phone that i use for strava, tends to eat through battery and i'd rather not be stranded.
I've already got two sets of patch kits there, they've already saved me a good few times, the tube is a recent addition.
Chain breaker multitool and another lever sounds like a good plan though, cheers

>>1073775
Nice. The Wrench Tool Roll looks like exactly what I was looking for.

Now I just have to wait for the price to be a little less wince-inducing. Maybe in a month or two.

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What does /n/ think about cheap carbon wheels?

>>1073840
https://www.reddit.com/r/Velo/comments/6bdy4j/chinese_carbon_wheelsets_and_your_experience/

probably more info here than you'll get out of /n/

>>1073840
carbon clinchers with rim brakes... why would you want that?

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How do I know whether it's the crankset or the bottom bracket that needs replacing?

>>1073886
The crank generally doesn't require replacement unless it cracks or breaks.

>>1073886
Its just a dropped chain, so neither.

....

Describe the problem, you dumbass.

>>1073889
Yeah, You're right. I figured but I had already posted it. I have play in the crankset. The play is mirrored and not at every position, more like when parallel to the down tube.

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What is the cause of this?

>>1073896
a fucked wheel

Hi /n/,

I have a Tiagra 4600 10 speed cassette. It used to be mounted on a Fulcrum wheel hub, but I recently switched to some Shimano R500's.

When the cassette came off the Fulcrum free hub there was a spacer in the middle of the cassette. Am I right in thinking that no spacer is required for 10 speed Tiagra on a Shimano 8,9,10 speed hub on the R500s?
I tried looking this up but the info seems v. jumbled.

Thanks for your help!

>>1071649
Look at the SKS models. They used to be ESGE; fairly well-regarded.

Beginner rider here. Just started riding last week.

I'm having a lot of trouble with climbs. A friend of mine that's more experienced than me tells me it's because my bike has 29" wheels instead of 26". Another says that's bullshit.

Which one is correct?

>>1073900
It's more likely that you are a beginner, it's meant to be hard.

>>1073900
Wheel size does change the way a bike rides, but it's very minor, especially compared to the fact that you're a newb. When you're just starting out, it's perfectly normal to suck at climbing until you've developed leg strength, cardiovascular fitness, and riding skills.

>>1073898
if the spacer was in the middle of the cassette, it needs to be there for proper spacing off the different cogs. An extra spacer (1.8mm) is required behind the entire 10-speed cassette on an 11-speed compatible freehub, if you need one and don't have it you won't be able to tighten the cassette lockring fully.

>>1073902
>>1073903
Thanks.

What sort of exercise (in a bike or otherwise, I do have access to a gym) should I be doing to improve my hill climbing? My town is very hilly so going anywhere requires steep climbing.

>>1073898
O dear, I don't remember where abouts in the cassette the spacer was. I think the hub on the R500 is 8,9 10 speed, so do I need an additional spacer? I've been running it without any spacers since...

>>1073904
I would recommend riding your bikes up some hills. That's the best way to train for riding up hills.

>>1073904
If you want to get strong as fast as possible google 'core exercises for cyclists' - there are lots of different ones that target specific muscles, do those, plus squats, if you want to build strength off the bike. Also, ride lots, you don't need HUGE muscles to be a strong climber, technique and cardiovascular endurance are just as important.

>>1073905
whether you need a spacer or not will become obvious when you go to tighten the cassette lockring

>>1073906
It's that simple, huh?

Should I do short hills that I can ride out at a moderate speed or the tall ones that I have to pace myself to get to the top? Mix of both, maybe?

>>1073908
short answer: practice riding both

long answer: go read about interval training, there's way too much to say about to fit into a 4chan post and lots already online

>>1073908
Mix

But you're really overthinking it.

The #1 way to improve is to ride your bicycle.
#2 is to ride it faster

Just have fun

And what the other guy said.

>>1073909
>>1073907
>>1073910
Thanks again!

>>1073907
How can I tell? It seems to tighten normally, albeit with a tiny amount of free play. I showed it to a mechanic who said it was within normal play. But the cassette definitely had a spacer when it was on the Fulcrum hub. It was def in middle of cassette. I still have the spacer, but no idea where it would go.

>>1071649
What's the best cheapass bike I can get for occasional commuting. And i mean like sub 200. The only thing I really know is that I can't have super thin tires because parts of the road to my work is really bad and has goat head around to the point I can't take my dog around there or I'll end up carrying the pupper for half a mile

>>1073896
>>1073897
Replaced tire with new tire, kept same inner tube. Fine now, so I guess the tire was fucked

>>1073916
There was a batch of gumwall Schwlabe lugano's that had this problem too,somehow the carcas got distorted after a few rides.

I don't think it is user error(eg riding too low a pressure or incorrect mounting)

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>>1073919
it's a vittoria zaffiro, cost me 10 euro and lasted about.. 2000km, that's not too bad imo.

here's a pic of some of the wiring coming loose from the inside of the tire

>>1073900
bullshit. there might be a difference, but it will be much smaller than:
your gear selection and pedaling technique
tire model and pressure
which way the wind is blowing
etc.
>>1073904
best training for climbing is climbing. I also do bodyweight squats for lots of reps, but I can't prove that does anything. Maybe pullups if you pull on the handlebars when climbing?
>>1073908
do whatever you suck at the most. but you should have variety.

>>1073913
90s rigid mtb with slicks

it's a meme but for a good reason. don't worry about how nice/expensive the components are, just make sure everything works and then replace the knobbly tires with smooth ones.

also /bbg/

Is there any incentive for a shop to give me a discount for paying cash rather than using finance? I'm not sure how much they'd value it.

Found an ideal bike, besides being slightly over budget.

>>1073934
In my experience, almost every shop will give you a discount if you pay in cash, up front. Not a huge one, but it's something. Always haggle, they expect it.

>>1073913
Anything new at that price will be absolute pure shit. Rigid 90s mtb with semislicks or OTS (old ten speed road bike) on Craigslist are your only good options (and they're both excellent options). >>>/n/bbg

>>1071649
will i look like a retard if i wear a helmet?
aren't helmet only for people scared of falling?

>>1073960
you'll look like a retard if you think you are looking like a retard.
why are you not scared of falling? are you wanna die?

>>1073960
if you don't wear a helmet you'll become a retard quicker than someone would think you looked like one if you wore a helmet

>>1073908
you're using your gears aren't you?

>>1073934
it means they can avoid tax on the transaction. Where I live, that will get you an automatic 10% off at the very least.

Does anyone know whether there should be a spacer in a Tiagra 4600 12-28 Cassette? If so where should it be?

Is there anywhere else I could ask?

Why are sleeveless jerseys bad?
Let's assume for this exercise that I don't have flabby straight gauge hotdog arms.

>>1074059
In? Lots. A spacer between every cog but the two outer ones. Most riveted in place. Many 10spd cassettes on many 7/8/9/11spd hubs also need a very thin spacer on the inside of the cassette for the locking ring to not bottom out against the body rather than the cassette. A thicker one on 11spd hubs than 9spd - or two.

So, it depends on the hub.

>>1074062
They're associated with triathletes, which is a hangup a lot of cyclists have for whatever reason.

I also recall it being discussed that bare shoulders are less aerodynamic than sleeves (full sleeves are the fastest, which is why you see them come out for time trials). Whether or not you actually care about is another matter.

But really, wear what's comfortable to you. Just make sure to please trust me on the sunscreen.

>>1074063
It's a shimano freehub on the r500 wheel.
Y4BG98070

The casette is the 12-28 cs-4600

>>1074059
If it moves around after you tighten it, yes, it needs a 1mm plastic spacer between the cassette and hub. Typically it comes with the cassette, but not always.

>>1074064
Also they're ugly

I want to start cycling to supplement my cardio should I just use a stationary or are actual bikes better for that?

>>1074122
I suppose it depends where you live but actual cycling is a lot more fun?

>>1072030

[spoiler] Git [/spoiler]
[spoiler]Gud [/spoiler]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5AZ8yYHNts

>>1072030
Go on an ice rink

So I just got some new tires and tubes to go with my new wheels. When I was inflating the tubes, there's a crackling noise that goes on for a few seconds and then stops. Is that just the sound of the wheel/tube getting getting settled? I've double checked for pinches in the inner tube before inflating.

>>1074155
Yes

>>1074130
Wouldn't this kill the tire? Are there some super hard tires that deal with skids better?

>>1074157
Yes

will a forward extended bar end help with climbing with a mtb or it's useless as a lot of people claim?

>>1074167
Thick slicks will help.

Forward extended bars won't.

I lost a handlebar plug in the city from a stack (learning clipless) in the middle of the night and didn't notice when I got home.

Where can I get another one?

>>1074173
slicks? wtf are you smoking?

>>1074180
Bar tape comes with them

Is my fat ass breaking my bike? Am I expecting too much out if it or was it put together in a shitty manner. I'm 235lbs.

I bought a rebuilt 90's mtn bike from LBS.

In the last two months the chain ring bolts have loosened and one has gone awol. The headset seems loose. The rear axle was loose(had some side to side play) and now that I've cleaned an repacked it it seems like the axle is bent maybe 2 mm, catches when slightly when spun.

Do shimano road cycling shoes RP series have women's variants? Or is it just wide vs default?

>>1074180
Use a wine bottle cork

>>1074208
If the bike is used and old parts could be worn already. Hubs and headsets come loose from use eventually. Maybe the bike shops didn't do the best job putting it together, maybe you are a rough rider, maybe the bike is worn, maybe it is a combo of all these things.

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I just bought a $6 knock off of the Tioga Spyder as recommended by anon in an earlier thread and I'd like to say thanks because it's the most comfortable seat I've ever sat on. Completely blows away the awful Selle Itaila gel saddle I was using.

>>1074185
You don't know what slicks are?

>>1074220
link?

If I spray anti corrosion aerosol (like ACF 50) down my seat tube, is there a risk of it contaminating the bottom bracket bearings?

>>1073960
Helmets are for when other people around you make mistakes and hit you.

>>1074244
i assume slick tires but that would be real bad for a mtb

>>1074267
I seriously doubt you do any real mountainbiking with it.

Otherwise Schwalbe big one liteskins

>>1074273
Why would you think that? He asked about climbing on a mtb, which part implied he does not ride off-road?

As for the bar extensions, if you climbing style involves pulling on the bars a lot then they might help.. but that kind of pedaling isn't very good for grip.

>>1074280
Because most people who post on the chanz don't go off-road.
In general most people with a mtb don't go off-road.

I have enough experience to know that most people will benefit from thick slicks or Schwalbe Big One LiteSkins unless it's a specific forum/thread/general.

I'm planning to get an angleset headset. I have never had one, is the angle change precisely the amount the headset was designed?

What I mean is can I set a 2 degree angleset headset to be say 1 or 1,5 degrees or even 0 degrees?

I don't necessarily need the angleset but I'm replacing the headset from a used bike I bought and it would be nice to have the option to change the headset angle if I happen to need it.

>>1074288
Angle sets depend on the steerer being smaller than what the head tube will accept. Meaning, unless you're replacing the fork as well, or already had a straight steerer fork in a head tube designed for taper, you typically can't fit an angle set. There are all manners of variance to this rule due to there being a bazillion different headset """standards""" - but there you go.
Angle sets also stress the front end of the bike more. Both the heat tube itself, the fork crown and the various joints and fixings.

This combined with the fact that slack conversions often mean taking a steep XC bike and converting it for rougher riding, means that you're not only subjecting the frame to a type of terrain and riding it was not designed to survive, but you are amplifying the forces considerably through both the angle set and the possible lengthening of the fork. It will be, weak, sloppy, poor riding and short lived.

tl;dr: Buy a new fucking bike.

>>1074273
it's the only thing i do actually, forest trails all over. i hate going on asphalt because it eats up the tires and if i wanted to bike in the city i wouldn't have bought an mtb.

my main problem is i used to lift low repetitions which makes me the best sprinter off my group for 10 seconds i can outspeed anyone uphill then it's over and i feel dead and we usually climb for hours i often end up just walking up with my bike. so i replaced my 26"er to a 29"er because i'm tall and it's a better fit. the 26" was a bad compromise it was not even agile like a bmx but it really sucked on the climb. and thinking about some prop for my early training until i get up to speed and can at least keep up with the others. that's why i asked. slick tires are out of the question as they offer no grip whatsoever and i also have to come down after i went up.

>>1074354
>forest trails
So Schwalbe Big One Liteskins (which are also awesome on the road)

>>1074360
i have continental mountain king on it and won't replace it until it goes to shit. definitely not with something that is useless.

>>1074360
Why do you keep recommending specific tires that are out of production and designed for a different use, the dude didn't even want to change his tires.

>>1074365
The dude wanted to go faster.
And I can still get Liteskins here.

I guess the newer Big one is called "Sschwalbe G-One speed"


>>1074364
k

>useless
"the Schwalbe G-One Allround produces smooth rolling on gravel, forest paths and country fields."

>>1074377
it has near zero grip on the roads we run which makes it utterly useless to me. maybe someone much better than me in technique and fitness could do them with one. but my basic problem is lack of fitness i can't just run at obstacles this crap tire would have no hold on and let the momentum carry me up. when i get there i'm already half dead. that's the problem.

i asked about the bar ends because they can change the geometry of the bike for climbing. it's like having a way longer stem they also provide more ergonomic handle for the forward leaning position to steer with but that's secondary to me. i want to conserve energy until i get better fitness so i don't keep the bunch up.

so fuck off with your shit advice, instead tell me why the bar ends won't help in reality.

>>1074377
>The dude wanted to go faster.
no i want to go longer uphill. i get the less resistance thing, but my main problem is that leaning forward is a position that eats up my energy and i need every bit of it. my muscles adapted to the climb somewhat i should get better in a few months. but i hold everyone up in the meantime.

interestingly i have no problems keeping up with them on flat terrain and short steep climbs are not a problem either because i can just rest while the bike is going on momentum. where i die is a long climb it doesn't even have to be that steep.

>>1074448
on other note the rolling resistance got me thinking if i put higher pressure in the tires when the conditions are ideal (ie the earth is relatively dry and packed) that should decrease the rolling resistance right? even tho it's not ideal for grip it's better for energy if i understand it correctly. and easy enough to fix if i have to, just let some air out when the earth is wet or lose.

>>1074455
i'm reading low tire pressures offer less rolling resistance off road contrary to on road. how the fuck that can be?

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My rear axle has a slight bend to it, maybe 2mm of run-out. It is a solid axle so I am surprised it's bent. I'm pricing out a replacement but do not know if there is anything I need to look for besides correct diameter and length. Perhaps differant grades of steel?

My dial caliper says its diameter .375" which is 3/8th" or 9.52mm, length is 7.1" or 180mm.

It's a MTB, is this thing sized metric or standard?

Picture unrelated

>>1074470
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/wheel-master-cro-mo-axle-mtb-solid-185mm-x-3-8?utm_source=TPA%20On%20Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=Top%20Placement%20Ads%C2%AE%20(SPLA)&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=People%20Searching%20For%20Bike%20Parts&utm_content=Google%20Shopping&product_id=58983&device=c&loc_physical_ms=9019537&gclid=Cj0KEQjw0v_IBRCEzKHK0KiCrKMBEiQA3--1NhLwDa2hKBgZUPTViGthYyBaS4in90qf9ZR39BiETlwaAlJP8P8HAQ

would this be a suitable replacement?

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im trying to identify this scott, i know it has sram red gears, rotor 50.36 crankset, campagnolo centaur brakes (that must be custom i supose).

does anyone recognize it? is this a bike they sell or just a frame that someone built on their own personal bike? what frame in that case.. year etc.


thanks , i know its pretty specific, but maybe someone knows, cheers!

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>>1074559
another one. that thing on the top tube, i havent seen in it in any other scott bikes. but i dont know them so well also

What's a BSO?

>>1074587
Department store bike

>>1074587
bike-shaped-object aka something you get from a department store (as opposed to a bike store proper) which fails to meet basic standards of quality and/or safety

My mtn bike has a special place to put the front derailleur as opposed to it just fitting around the tube.

The chain rubs on it no matter what I do and I've dicked around with the set screws a bunch.

Any recommendations?

>>1074609
Need more details. Rubs in which position, surely not all the time? What chain ("speeds"), what is the FD intended for?

>>1074617
It rubs through most speeds on the big gear on the front, and occasionally decides to shift down.

I've also gotten my chain jammed into the BB

>what is the FD intended for?
I don't understand the question. I didn't build this bike it's off the rack.

Normally, if the set screws aren't doing everything right, I can just move the FD a little bit in or out, but in this case it has to be straight.

How does /n/ wash/detail their bikes?

>>1074621
I tried to ask if it's a 8-speed FD with 8-speed chain, or 10-speed FD with 9-speed chain etc. If it's a stock bike then I guess it's fine.
>It rubs through most speeds on the big gear on the front, and occasionally decides to shift down.
Increase cable tension.
>I've also gotten my chain jammed into the BB
Tighten the limit screw on the bb side until it just starts to rub in the lowest gear (small front, big rear), then back off a bit.
>Normally, if the set screws aren't doing everything right, I can just move the FD a little bit in or out, but in this case it has to be straight.
I don't quite understand this part... but if your chain or cables are old and worn they can cause all kinds of shifting issues.

>>1074623
I wipe the biggest piles of mud off with a paper towel and continue pedaling.
Sometimes if it's really bad I spray the bike with water first.

>>1074623
I get a bucket of soapy water and clean it as well as I can with a rag, then dump all the water over the bike, mostly in the BB/shock area and then re-lube.

>>1074624
Yeah...I've been through all that a couple times before. I guess I might just have to live with quirks.
>I don't quite understand this part... but if your chain or cables are old and worn they can cause all kinds of shifting issues.
I mean if it's just attached with friction, you can spin it a tiny fraction of an inch in or out. I think that would probably solve my problems except that it's mounted differently.

>>1074624
Also the bike is still just a baby at 1 year old last week. She's in good shape.

>>1074628
I see. Tbh I've never worked on a bike with direct mount FD so I can't help you with that.

I don't know anything about bike parts. When I'm riding it and I pedal the right pedal, it makes a clicking/creaking sound. Flipping the bike upside down and pedaling doesn't make this sound, so it's only with pressure. What's the fix for this? New bottom bracket? Can't really determine the location of the sound since its only with pressure.

>>1074670
Try really hard to wiggle your pedals perpendicular to the frame. If it wiggles you need a new BB

I need to replace my chain.
I'm new to bicycling, all I know is I need a 9 speed chain. How difficult is it to replace, should I be able to easily do it alone?

>>1074670
My bike did this on the left side. I already forgot about it and it seems to have fixed itself somehow.
I was ready to swap the whole BB, but looks like it's not time for that yet.
>>1074705
Yeah it SHOULD be pretty easy. You will need a chain tool for shortening the chain to the correct length. I managed to fuck up that part desu. I don't know if my tool was garbage or was it just me, but I couldn't get the pin through no matter what I did. Since then I got a better tool, but haven't tried it yet.

>>1074705
If you have chain breaker, it's easy.
To size the chain, use the largest cog and largest chainring method (do NOT use existing chain method, you don't know if existing chain was the proper length), see http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing

For more on how to install, see http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-replacement-derailleur-bikes

>>1074246
Anyone?

>>1074813
No. The bb is sealed

>>1075035
Thanks.
I know it's sealed from water, but I was worried penetrating aerosols like WD40 or ACF 50 might get into the bearings and contaminate the grease. I havn't taken apart a BB so wasn't sure if the seals were on the inside down the seat tube or on the outside where the crank attaches.