/BBG/ - BIKE BUYING GENERAL

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I'm looking to buy a flat bar road bike. What do you guys think of pic related?

>>1068126
obligatory
>flat bar road bike

I don't think that's a BAD bike, but i would say it's bad for someone who wants a 'flat bar road bike'. good if you want a reliable sturdy commuter to say "fuck it" with

>>1068128
No you don't understand, that bike is a FLAT BAR ROAD BIKE. That is literally what it is. Stop saying it's not. Because it is.

Thinking of picking up the sequoia elite. What do yall niggas think of it?

It'd be my utility ride, for hauling groceries, going to work, and just throwing around the city. I don't have a car and just get around via bike, and the only bike i have now is a crit bike, it's fun sure, but 12 cm of bar drop and no fenders/racks doesn't make it the most practical ride

i'm open to other suggestions but i'm only looking at stuff from specialized because i can get anything from them at huge discounts. mostly like the sequoia over the diverge because versatility and steel is reel

>>1068132
Pretty good option.
>huge discounts
Do you work at Erik's?

>>1068131
Call it what you want. It's a hybrid. Flat bars, more neutral upright geometry, longer wheelbase, wide tires, and a fucking internal gear hub. You can't just say >it's a road bike except for everything on it that doesnt make it a road bike.

just like you can't call your trek emonda a "drop bar hybrid"

>>1068135
>Do you work at Erik's?
Nope, I do work at a bike shop though

>>1068139
>not knowing the boardman meme

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Asking here again since I didn't get an answer.

I measured the distance between the bold that holds my current brakes and the wheel rim, and got it to about-ish 60mm from middle to middle. My bike is a 70s Bianchi steel frame. Will these brakes work? Two front brakes and I will drill out the back hole on the fork.

I'm getting my new road/touring bike today, any essential accessories? Obviously got lights and a bottle clip as well as clothing.

Ordered Shamal Milles, how badly did I fuck up?

>>1068132
What about the AWOL?

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My bike has these extremely cheap cantilever brakes, they look similar to pic related.
The problem is no matter how can't set them they either catch on the tyre, or they don't have sufficient stopping power.
Will V-brakes work better with wider tyres?

convince me not to use a knockoff chinese carbon frame

>>1068172
The knock off chink frame will have no quality control at all. If you want cheap carbon frame buy open mould from one of the well known chink brands.

>>1068171
Yes and no and maybe, but they will be incompatible with your levers. If the problem is that you can't shorten the transverse cable enough without it getting too close to the tyres then that's the main leverage adjustment option out of the question. I'm assuming that's what you meant by setting them?

This will possibly be old news and I apologize for the long reply, but there are a few things you can do if you understand how cantilevers work and what their problems are. V have problems of their own and share many of the ones with cantilevers - but lets stick with fixing the system you have.

Cantilevers and V both offer the exact same power when paired with the appropriate lever. The increase in leverage in the V brake assembly is offset by the levers pulling more wire.

The main advantages of the V is that it's safer in that a broken cable on a cantilever can let the transverse cable catch the front tyre and throw you over the bars, head first; that it is easier to set up/harder to fuck up as there are almost no possible adjustments to make; that it is less affected by poor or worn cabling due to pulling more cable, making losses proportionally smaller; and that, while not an intrinsic property of the design concept but often in practice that the brake assembly is stiffer.
1/2

>>1068171
2/2
Many cantilever brakes have the pads mounted on long bars that exert sometimes considerable leverage on the brake, its mounting and the fork blade/chainstay, causing it to twist. This means both a reduction of braking force and the pad not fully contacting the rim. This is why poor cantilever designs often need much more pad toe in than caliper or V.
This can be mitigated with better choice of pads and, in the case of the mounts/frame flexing, a so called brake booster that is basically a stamped honeycomb pattern bridge that sits outside the brake at the end of the mounting pegs and prevents them from pointing in when the brake is applied.
Brake boosters cost next to nothing, as do pads. Magura make brake boosters still and KoolStop make good pads.

A second issue (in the front, mainly) is that the cantilever wire is often hung from the top of the headset instead of connected directly to the brake as with calipers or V. This means a pull on the lever wants to bend the fork, pegs and brake assembly upwards, and every little bit they do lessens brake force - whereas in turn it increases when they spring back. It is a positive feedback loop of these properties that cause the infamous cantilever brake judder. Even on assemblies that do not experience the runaway feedback can suffer poor brake performance and "twitchy" modulation.

One solution/mitigation strategy is to use a cantilever cable hanger that attaches to the fork crown instead of the headset stack, but that requires a drilled crown. The upside is that they cost peanuts.

If, after all this, you're still not happy I suggest getting better cantilevers and carry the upgraded pads, hanger and booster over. It will be a much better brake assembly than a brand new V brake assembly and levers without the upgrades, and still cost less over all. Even if you end up buying new cantilevers.

>>1068172
Piracy carries a maximum penalty of death in China. You're buying a bike from a crime syndicate that are willing to risk death sentences. If they don't care about themselves, how much do you think they care about your health and safety?

>>1068157
pls respons

Also, I just tried to fix my bent derailleur, but I can't seem to get it straight. Will any old Campagnolo derailleur work with my downtube shifters? It's a 6-speed freewheel.

My part time commute to work is about 1.5 miles.

It's all on road and sometimes pavement/sidewalk.

On top of that I'm thinking of cycling for Deliveroo for some extra income. So I'm gonna put a decent amount of miles a week. All on road and pavement.

Should I get a road bike or a hybrid/mountain bike? I can get a nice road bike used from a friend for cheap put are road bikes okay for riding on pavements sometimes?

>>1068186
>I can get a nice road bike used from a friend for cheap put are road bikes okay for riding on pavements sometimes?
What was this supposed to mean? That's exactly what a road bike is for. Riding on paved roads - pavement. Whole fucking races go off on cobblestones even, so no matter what type of pavement (tarmac, concrete tile, unobtanium foil, cobble or pavé) you intend to ride the answer is yes.

>>1068186
>are road bikes okay for riding on pavements sometimes
That's the point of road bikes. What the actual fuck are you trying to ask?

>>1068139
It doesn't look much different from my road bike where all I did was swap the handlebars.

Right now I'm using old socks with the end cut out as shin guards.

Particularly my calfs get scratched up pretty bad.

Is there a cheap solution?

>>1068180
>tfw no qt Chinese gf whose dad runs a black market bike frame business
Hold me, /n/

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I'm looking at FS Mountain Bikes around 2k and I gave this guy a test ride today.

http://www.norco.com/bikes/mountain/trail/fluid-9-fs/fluid-fs-91/

It was great. I'm really tempted and it seems to beat most things in the price range that I can actually sit on and ride before buying on specs. Even comes with a dropper. Think it's worth it for $2099?

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Just got this off Craigslist (sorry, haven't taken a picture yet, it's the listing pic)
Did I do good?

>>1068381
As long as you didn't pay a lot, sure. Looks kind of worn out.

>>1068327
uhh how is this bike related?

>>1068327
Cheaper than old socks? I don't think so.
Why not get a chain guard?

>>1068381
if you paid less than 100 dollars yes you did

>>1068355
idk, i'd try and find some closeouts. my shop, for example, sells 2016 stumpjumper comps for 2k. I don't think that's a BAD bike though, just not a great one.

>>1068186
A road bike will be over twice as fast as a mountain bike for the same amount of effert on the road. Go to a bike shop and try a few out, pretending you want to buy, you will never ask that question again.

>>1068132
How is that a internal gear hub?

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Total newb here looking to purchase a mountain bike, is this a good deal?

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-mountain-bike/winnipeg/mens-2010-kona-kula-deluxe-mountain-bike/1259526687?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

>>1068208
>>1068268
>>1068186
By "pavement" he probably means the sidewalk.
And the answer is: stop riding on the sidewalk, faggot

>>1068459
Rather steep for a 7 year old bike

Okay, thanks for looking out bud. I've also heard that 26" wheels are starting to become obsolete, Is there a big difference between 27.5 and 29ers?

I'm 6ft by the way, not sure if that matters or not.

>>1068482
In general terms, the bigger the wheel, the easier it goes over things (so you'll roll faster through roots and shit), at the expense of losing "snappy-ness", if you get what I mean. Also 26" wheels are stronger.
And no, they're not becoming obsolete. That's what (((they))) want you to believe.

Good to know, thanks.

>>1068327
>Particularly my calfs get scratched up pretty bad.
>Is there a cheap solution?
Yes. Go clipless rather than cheese grater platforms.

>>1068502
Nah, not on my mtn bike.
>>1068442
The socks look shabby and only work so well, and its the pedals that chew at my calfs.

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>>1068327
you can get kali knee/shin guards on ebay for cheap but you'll look like a huge faglord. i paid like $30 and they are comfy, stay on and look like ass but protect your shins.
>>1068482
26 is dead- deal with it. 27.5 is now standard on all but Dirt jump (and even that is going 27.5) and XC race bikes (29)

>>1068512
>Nah, not on my mtn bike.
The stop falling over and keep your feet on the pedals. It's free.

>>1068531
>stop falling over
That's a tall order.

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>>1068517
>you'll look like a huge faglord
bro i wear highlighter yellow mesh jerseys and gloves that say 'pop wheelies'. i'd wear those guards without thinking twice if i didnt already have some fox ones.

700 USD budget, Need a commute city bike, want a road racer as well, do I get the one Trek hybrid or do i get both a moutain and racer from shimano for the same price?

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Is "adventure bikes are a meme" a meme?

I want a bike with dropbars that I can put panniers on for commuting. I tried my dad's old touring bike and I really liked it, but I don't need a full-on touring bike. Apart from commuting my most common ride is 12km up the local mountain.

Also, how cucked are mechanical disc brakes?

1.
2017 Norco Search $1650 CAD
http://www.norco.com/bikes/road/adventure/search-aluminum/search-a-tiagra/

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>>1068563

2.
2016 Giant Anyroad $1200
http://shop.steedcycles.com/bikes-giant-2016-anyroad-1.html

>>1068563
Mech discs are worthless, might as well go rim and save money. And unless you're riding fast (which you won't commuting with panniers), drop bars are worthless. Might as well get a hybrid and save a ton of money.

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>>1068566
>atomic memeing

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>>1068566
>hybrid
You mean flat bar road bike. Hybrid could mean anything.

>>1068566

I definitely feel the difference with drop bars. There's no question that I'm faster on the heavy old dropbar touring bike than on my 90s mtb with slicks.

Aren't these basically just the "drop bar hybrid" complement to "flat bar roadbikes"? I think that that touring bike was actually called a hybrid back then.

I know the memes about mech discs, but how are they actually bad? If you think these bikes are expensive already I'd have to pay hundreds more to go hydro.

>>1068571
They have the feel and stopping power of rim brakes, the difference being they work when wet.
You're gonna have to pay hundreds more for sub-par components anyway just because they are drop bar compatible. Go flat bars, cut them down and slam the stem, you'll be about as aero as on your touring bike for a fraction of the price.

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>>1068574

> the difference being they work when wet.

Considering I live in Vancouver that's kind of important. I've been going through V-brake pads every six weeks all winter. It seems hard to find a new bike with rim brakes anyway.

> Go flat bars

I'm comparing against road bikes, not hybrids. Hybrids seem to cost about the same anyway.

3. Here's a road bike.
2016 Giant Defy Advanced
http://shop.steedcycles.com/bikes-giant-2016-defy-advanced-3.html

>>1068571
>I know the memes about mech discs, but how are they actually bad?
They can sometimes be a bit finicky to get set up and you have to adjust for pad wear just as you do with rim brakes. The return springs are weaker than with rim brakes, so they're sensitive to bad cabling, wear and dirt.
That's the price you pay for modulation, power, lack of fade and being largely unaffected by weather and temperature.
>>1068574
>They have the feel and stopping power of rim brakes
And this is how I know you know nothing of mech discs. Nothing you've said in this thread is of note.

>>1068571
The aerodynamic saving going from flat bars to drop bars is fuck all, like 2mph at the same power at most.

As >>1068574 says you're paying quite a bit more for that tiny bit of extra speed, for the same money you could a bike with hydraulic discs and slap on some more expensive tyres with less rolling resistance.

>>1068574
>wat is rs505
>>1068578
>you have to adjust for pad wear just as you do with rim brakes.
not if you get Hy/Rds

>>1068581
>wat is rs505

£400.00 is what it is. You can outfit like 5 flat bar bikes with hydro dick 1x11 setups for that.

>>1068178
>>1068179
Thank you very much for the thorough answer, I'll buy brake boosters and better brake pads and call it a day.
It's a 90s MTB and it really doesn't warrant too many/expensive upgrades.

>>1068586
rs505 is sub par? I find your selective snobbery confusing considering you seem to consider a flat bar bike to be an acceptable substitute for a drop bar bike

>>1068594
>rs505 is sub par?

Compared to flat bar components in the same price bracket, yes.

>you seem to consider a flat bar bike to be an acceptable substitute for a drop bar bike

Do you race? No? Then shut the fuck up and get a flat bar bike with bar-ends or butterfly bars. You don't ride to show off, right? Right?

>>1068596
>comfort is for showing off and racing
>bullhorn bars are good
the shitposting is strong in this one

>>1068602
I already gave you a more comfortable option.

I want a cheap used mountain bike. What should I look out for on craigslist?
I want to spend $150 or less.

>>1068644
Spend more or else go to a co-op and build your own out of spare parts.

>>1068644
Too much unknown, send specific ads and post. Look out for treks in particular

>>1068448
I checked every LBS and most of the closeouts were stuff that was 2k getting marked down into the 1700s. Most of them are inferior to the Fluid though.

I don't think a 3k->2k is going to happen.

>>1068644
Name brands
No suspension
Vertical dropouts

Hey thats my bike... op you fucking groid gtfo 4chins

What's all the maintenance/repair stuff I need for my first bike?

Since Wabi was sold with non-bike owners and a new factory has anyone heard of problems with the frames?

>>1068673
As far as stuff to bring with on rides, or for a home workshop? For rides this is my recommended setup:

Absolute necessities:
>Lock+key
>Lights
>Multitool with allen wrenches, screwdrivers, chain breaker, and spoke wrenches (I highly recommend Crank Bros M17 or M19)
>Adjustable wrench (you may not need it depending on your bike, but if your wheels are bolt on, you'll need it to remove a wheel to fix a flat, and may also need it for brake adjustments depending on your brakes)
>Portable pump (I recommend Topeak Turbo Morph; big for a portable pump, but works great; make sure to test-use whatever pump you get before you need it, some are shit and don't work)
>3 plastic tire levers
>Spare tubes (patches are nice, but won't work if you have major damage such as a blowout)

Optional things to bring:
>Water and Clif bars
>Phone and money in case you run into a severe mechanical issue and need a ride
>Master link (you can fix a broken chain without one, but it's better if you have one)
>Zip ties (in case something breaks and you need to tie stuff together/get stuff out of the way)
>Patch kit (not a substitute for spare tubes, but an option for minor damage; also good to have in case you get multiple flats and run out of spare tubes)
>Tire boots
>Spare rim strip
>Rain jacket

>>1068673
>>1068682
If you are talking about a home workshop then it really depends how much you want to be able to do. If you will take your bike to the shop for repairs and just want to do really basic maintenance, you should have a tire pump and chain lube. Tire levers are also nice for changing flats. An allen wrench set is also very useful.
If you want a more fully equipped workshop to be able to do most repairs, you'd be looking at something along the lines of:
>repair stand
>allen wrench set
>metric wrench set and/or adjustable/crescent wrenches
>torque wrenches and bits (important if working on carbon bikes, otherwise not so important)
>hammer (comes in useful more than you'd think)
>a few basic screwdrivers
>torx wrenches (not needed on all bikes)
>spoke wrenches (truing stand optional, you can true without one)
>cable/housing cutter (this should preferably be one specifically for bike cables/housing)
>regular and needle nose pliers
>chain breaker
>masterlink pliers if using a chain that uses masterlinks
>tools for your cassettes/freewheels (many different tools, varies by bike)
>tools for your bottom bracket/cranks (many different tools, varies by bike)
>tire levers
>pump
>cone wrenches
>grease
>lube
>bearing balls (if your bikes use loose ball bearings)

>>1068644
At that price, you need to go with 80s or 90s rigid (no suspension). If you get something with suspension, and/or more recent than 90s, at that price point, it is going to be pure fucking shit.

If you want to spend more money and get a modern mountain bike with suspension you'll be looking at spending a lot more money than that, and you should check pinkbike.com/buysell
Craigslist is great for old 80s-90s bikes but pinkbike is better for modern higher end bikes

>>1068561
Your post is so unclear. You want to buy two bicycles with 700 dollars? And you want to use one of them for racing? Not gonna happen. Also, Shimano doesn't produce bikes, they produce components such as drive train components, brakes, and hubs (btw, SRAM is better than Shimano).

Be more clear about what you want. Your post is a jumbled mess of indecipherable rambling.

>>1068172
It will explode and you will die
>>1068159
lock
rack/panniers

>>1068172
LOL
ive personally seen Specialized do demonstrations of counterfeit frames. they're garbage. They break super easily, are heavier, and are fucking floppy al dente frames. they only benefit of them is they say the brand name and people think you have a dogma or whatever. a decent alloy frame will even blow chinkgarbon out of the water

>>1068409
>>1068448
I got it for 90, it was from an older guy. Bike is hardly used, everything is good other than the brakes having needed adjustment

3 questions
1. recommend a good entry level road bike
2. how does a road bike hold up as a daily commute bike? (i have to hit the side walk a bit to and from work and are concerned)
3. How does this board feel about TREK? local shop has a new one for 500 usd and a life time service offer

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The bike shop wants 299 for it. It's a 2001 homegrown factory that originally retailed for ~2,400 from what they told me.
Good deal? Or crackpipe?

>Fork:Brand: Manitou
>Model: Mars

>Front shift: Shimano 3 speeds
>Rear shift: Shimano XTR 9 speed
>Front brake: Avid
>Rear brake: Avid

>Front wheel:
>Tire front wheel: Michelin 26 inch
>Hub front wheel: Tioga
>Rear wheel:Tire rear wheel: MichelinNUT
> Rear wheel: Tioga
>Drive: Crank: Deore XT

>>1068735
1: There's shitloads of good road bikes. it depends on
Price range
personal preference
requirements (fender mounts, rack mounts, tire clearance)
riding style
riding distance
terrain type
etc
2: fine? a road bike isnt gonna crumble into dust. idk if your commute involves throwing your bike off buildings. It'll be fine. if your commute involves going on dirt/gravel paths get something wider than 25c tires and you're fine.

3: theyre a brand. shitty walmart bikes and sketchy chinese stuff aside, a brand isnt gonna tell you shit. all the big names got their shit together and know how to make bikes by now.
if it's 500 usd its either a hybrid like the FX or Cross sport (not a road bike) or its like, a 2016 trek 1.1 which i wouldnt reccomend

>>1068743
300 is a good price for that specific bike
https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/searchlistingdetail.aspx?id=35146

HOWEVER
imo it's not worth it. It's a heavy as shit 15 yearold hardtail, triple crankset, etc. Idk why you'd pay 300 bucks for that, you could do a lot better.

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I found a 1981 Fuji Royale for 140 bucks. It looks pretty decent but it might need new tires. This will be a commuter bike on paved roads for the most part, what yall think?

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>>1068781

Heres a pic of the bike. Im really new to bikes in general but I have heard Fuji as a brand is pretty good and the Royale is a decent entry level bike.

>>1068787
If you're 7 feet tall, get it

>>1068790

Im about 6 foot and this is a 63 cm frame, would this be a little to big or should I forget it?

>>1068791
You should try the bike first, there's no absolute science to bike sizes (I ride a 59cm frame when the size charts indicated 62cm). If it's too big then forget, if it's too small you can solve it with a longer steam.

>>1068735
1 -> Btwin Ultra af is strangely good for this price range. But as >>1068748 pointed it, it depend on what you want.

2 -> Yes, I commuted on a carbon frame (as stupid as it sound) for years and I have no problem. So you'll be fine with a aluminium bike.

3 -> I dislike, their entry level bike are just shit.

Would an FSA Gossamer 11 speed crankset be compatible with an old 10 speed Ultegra groupset or would there be shifting/gearing problems?

>>1068809
It'll work just fine. Honestly when it comes to cranksets, there's not really a difference in "speeds". Maybe a fraction of a millimiter difference in the distance between the chainrings.

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Someone's selling a road bike for cheap in my local classifieds, worth it?
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/winnipeg/schwinn-road-bike-for-sale/1259789770?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

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I really want to buy my first bike but I'm a little intimidated.

I would like to get non-puncture tyres so I can cycle on the gravelly canal path for my work commute, but I only see "Tannus tyres" and searching only shows stuff from literally years ago...

Any advice/recommendations for a first time buyer?

>>1068816
/n/ believes that the only tires you should buy are 190g puncture magnets, if you need real puncture resistance they'll go "I never get flats on my trainer and last year I even went outside and rode my bike and I didn't get a flat either so who needs puncture resistance? not me and not you either, it's for showing off"

>>1068817
did I mention the part where I wanted to ride on a hard path with tiny stones?

>>1068816
There's no such thing as non-puncture tires. The closest you can get is Schwalbe Marathons, but they'll make for a rather harsh ride, and something sharp and thin enough will still go through them eventually.
In any case, you're much less likely to get a puncture while riding through gravel than paved roads, since there's hardly any debris on dirt paths (most punctures come from glass shards, steel shavings, shit like that).
Just make sure you get something not too shitty, and have them properly inflated.

>>1068815
That's actually suspiciously cheap for something with STI

>>1068811
Thanks for the tip! Also, I'm converting from a triple to a double (clamp-on front deraillur). Can the existing front derailleur be used for a double crankset, or do I need to buy a double-chainset front derailleur?

>>1068825
Now THAT would cause shifting issues. Get a double FD.

>>1068809
>FSA cranksets
Absolutely haram

>>1068833
>every single bike I look at uses an FSA crank

>>1068121
hey I'm trying to decide on a bike that I'll use for getting around town in orlando, trips of about 3 miles and general fun rides.

I'm 6'3 and 280 pounds. I've got a really tight budget so I'm trying to decide if I should be getting something off craigslist or just get a new electra cruiser 7d. craigslist is scary to me because I'm afraid of buying a stolen bike and having to return it.

https://orlando.craigslist.org/search/bia?search_distance=40&postal=32825

>>1068825
You need a new shifter too, and they're usually sold in pairs. That's a very expensive conversion to do unless you're upgrading the shifters, gears and chainset anyway.

>>1068735
1. Old ten speed from Craigslist
2. Depends on the bike. If it's a steel old ten speed, it'll hold up well. If it's a modern carbon race bike, not so much. Old steel bikes make excellent commuters for several reasons:
>not expensive, so theives won't pay much attention as long as they're locked
>steel rides nice and is durable
>they usually have rack and fender mounts, unlike many modern road bikes
3. Trek makes good stuff, though at the $500 pricepoint pretty much anything is going to be junk unless buying used.

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Old Raleigh I'm considering buying but I haven't got a clue when it comes to road bikes, does it look like an okay deal?
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-bike/winnipeg/raleigh-bike/1260097817?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

>>1068825
If you have good, usable shifters, no.
If you have ungodly but versatile friction shifters, definitely.

>>1068858
They use them because they can get them cheaply as they're shit

>>1069026
Looks in pretty good condition, though you have to bear in mind it's a pretty low-tier bike. At least it doesn't have cottered cranks.

I need to pick up a bicycle I can ride off road (infrequently) and otherwise just to and from work (4 miles) 5 times a week. I wish I had more to spend, but I don't have much.

For the £300 mark what should I be looking out for? I'm not really up to scratch with my parts knowledge. I'm looking at a Giant ATX 2 2017 (27.5") and Fuji Nevada 1.7 Ltd (29") right now.

Are either of these as decent as I think they are? I guess I'm swayed toward the Giant, as it's a brand I recognise.

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How is this for a total beginner baby first ride? I mean I can ride a bike but I'm looking for something that I can use to travel to work 20km away.

Why doesn't this general have an infographic guide? Every other fucking board has one for their buyer's guide.

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I posted this same ad earlier in the thread, the seller dropped the price another $100, worth it now?
Keep in mind it's in Canadian dollars, roughly 70% of USD.
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-mountain-bike/winnipeg/mens-2009-kona-kula-deluxe-mountain-bike/1260172400?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

>>1069137
Get the Fuji over the Giant, hydraulic brakes and a better drivetrain.

>>1069162
Seems alright, not an amazing deal but not a stupid price either.

>>1069140
I wouldn't touch that with a 10 foot pole unless you were confident in your abilities as a mechanic - the seller sounds largely clueless, but even they recognize that their bike has serious issues.

>>1069143
Plenty of people have tried to make an infographic for this, but all have failed because there's just too much variation in the bikes for sale at any given time/place to allow for useful generalizations.

>>1069208
> they recognize that their bike has serious issues.
You consider some scratches and a torn seat to be serious issues?

>>1069210
welcome to the sudden realization that most of the people in this thread are autists that don't even leave the house.

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How's this for a beginner bike? I want something that's good for xc but can still take a beating.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-mountain-bike/winnipeg/2008-ironhorse-maverick-3-3-mountain-bike/1260256433?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

>>1069065
>>1068897
The shifters are Shimano 105, 5600 version. Couls replacing the old gear cables for new ones avoid this problem?

I need a bike solely for getting from point A to point B, I was using a $100 walmart bike for the past month but that gave out on me because I'm a retard and bought a walmart bike. I need something affordable (preferably within $200), my main transit to/from work is exclusively flat ground, I live in florida so weather isn't really a concern if that matters. I don't know anything about bikes so I'll take any help and recs I can get.

>>1069229
It ain't bad for the price but it is a shit bike. To get something that's actually worth buying you'll probably want to up your budget to around $500cad.

>>1069241
>inb4 90s mountain bike with slicks
Depending on where you are, you can get an older steel road bike for around $100 that's in pretty good shape. They last a long time with minimal maintenence. Just set an upper price limit of $150 and search:

Nishiki
Univega
Miyata
Trek
Specialized

>>1069267
Nishiki | Univega | Miyata | Trek | Specialized

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>>1069267
I found this while looking
do any of these sound good?

>>1069275
All of them sound good
How about some pictures

>>1068787
Nice. I love old classic Fujis.

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>>1069308
sorry

>>1069275
You don't know your size, do you.

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Does this look like a good deal?
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cruiser-commuter-hybrid/winnipeg/trek-24-speed-hybrid-road-bike-28-inch-tires/1260311887?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

>>1069313
nope but I'm kind of a manlet so a small frame shouldn't be too bad

>>1069312
Unless you're five feet tall, get the 830

hey guys complete noob wanting a mountain bike for commuting and interested in a little bit of downhill.
What's a decent starter for $1000AUD and below?
Cheers fellas

Redpill me on modern Shimano groupsets. Does moving higher-end mean that everything is built better and will last longer, or is it paying more money for a finicky tight-tolerances maintenance nightmare?

I'm mostly looking at bikes with Tiagra but I'd move down to Sora or up to 105 if it was going to make it more reliable. Do you really have to pay money every time you take off the chain on 10-speed and up?

I'm used to 7-speed stuff from the '90s. I read this but I don't know if the concerns are still accurate.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html

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>>1068577

4. Drop bar hybrid on slicks?

http://shop.steedcycles.com/bikes-specialized-2017-diverge-a1-sport.html

Is Look a meme brand? I want to get a nicer and full carbon bike, but aside from the cool internal brakes some of the newer models have I don't see why the cost is so high for Look other than name brand.

>>1069515
I bet you are commuting, so stick with a Tiagra (newest ones are almost the same as 105, minus one speed). And no, you don't need to pay to remove your chain, what the fuck is that ?

As you go up (to Ultegra), they tend to be less heavy, more resistant and pricier. Dura-Ace is just a lightweight Ultegra with one or two added features.

>>1069522
They're very high quality but to be honest, not worth your money unless you have a burning desire for one.

Like Colnago, beautiful and well made but take what they ask for a good frame and see what Canyon/Giant/Trek can offer you for the money and it suddenly seems less worth it.

>>1069529
Yeah that's what I was thinking.
I get there's a bit more money for prestige, but when I can turn my head in the shop and see a line of Bianchi that all cost less it makes me start to wonder if I'm missing something.

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Is this Kona worth it?
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-mountain-bike/winnipeg/mens-2015-kona-blast-mountain-bike/1260640104?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

>>1069636
What's with the sudden influx of Canadians? Are you all one guy? I've noticed that all the ads posted are in Winnipeg.

No that bike isn't worth that much, try 350.

Since this is a bike thing I need some sort of help on my bike, it has 7 changes on the back but when I change from 6 to 7 it doesn't do the change properly, I push the peddals and it tries to do the change but it won't, I bought a new derailleur but nothing happened, do you guys know something about this?

Haha yeah it's all me, sorry. I've got the itch and I'm starting to lose patience.

>>1069638
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment

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So I've been riding BMX for years but want a bit more of a comfortable ride so I can go on longer rides and also maybe hit up some trails every now and then. My brother works in a bike shop and my price limit was $500. So he recommended me this which is $899 but I got at cost for $550. How'd I do?

>>1069527

Yeah commuting.

That Sheldon Brown link was talking about special one-time-use rivets and disposable quick links. But maybe it's ten years out of date.

Since I'm looking at heavy bikes anyway I don't need to save 100g in the derailleur.

Thanks for the advice, I was confused by this modern stuff.

Any good complete mountain bikes under 300$? I'm looking to go trail riding in Yosemite. Or if anyone's nice, help me find a good bike in cl near Fresno ca

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Does this look like a good deal?

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-mountain-bike/winnipeg/mountain-hybrid-cyclecross-bike/1260848630

I've been looking to buy a road bike for ages but I keep overthinking it and overwhelming myself with all the options and the mounting costs as I factor in additional gear (pedals, shoes etc.)

How do you get over your inner jew that hates spending money and is it advisable I just buy from an LBS instead of second hand so that I can get a good fit etc? It's a shame bike shops don't sell second hand.

>>1069802
Plz respond

>>1069829
If you have a good LBS that isn't full of clueless hipsters or greedy jews, go there. Get a road bike with an aluminium frame, carbon fork, and Claris/Sora/Tiagra/105 groupset depending on your budget. Give it a test ride first, of course.

>>1069829
>How do you get over your inner jew that hates spending money
It's very little money. Compared to just about any hobby but perhaps bird watching - it's peanuts. A breddy gud:DD road bike is €600-800 or so. Shoes, helmut and basic clothing is another two hundred. Be glad that you're not into photography, or something.
>and is it advisable I just buy from an LBS instead of second hand so that I can get a good fit etc?
Yes. Assuming it's a good LBS and not a bunch of clowns with a full stock of old shit that they're desperate to pass of to some schmuck. Older than last years model, last in stock, 'sizing is a matter of preference' and """great deals""" are things to beware of and may be signs that they're trying to shift inventory rather than help you buy a bike.

But yes, buy new. Make sure you don't buy a bike that is too large, and you can always ask for input about the candidates here. Or state you budget and get suggestions.

Just bought a new bike and I need a computer for it. Should I get a Wahoo Elemnt Bolt or a Garmin Vivoactive + sensors?

>>1069515
with shimano chain, yes, because they need new pins. all shimano chains do this tho

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Ok /n/,
The day has come to buy a new bike.

I'm wanting a gravel/adventure road bike that I can ride on bidleways and canal paths, take on long distance sportive rides, audax style rides, and occasionally light bikepacking trips.

There are many good options, but for reasons it is between these two bikes. Votes, views and opinions encouraged!

http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/adventure/adventure/croix-de-fer/croix-de-fer-20

http://www.saracen.co.uk/bikes/road/road/hack/hack-2

Pic is the Genesis Croix de Fer 20, steel frame.

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>>1070048
And this is the alloy Hack 2!

>>1070048
>>1070050
Will be buying later today/tomorrow, and input appreciated!

>>1070051
One thing that concerns me about the CdF is the brakes.

TRP HY-RD mechanical-hydraulic caliper w/160mm TR160 rotors

Is this a worst of both worlds sort of set up between mechanical and hydraulic disc brakes?

>>1070053
I've got Hy/Rds, after upgrading from "normal" mech brakes.

The thing about the Hy/Rds is that "muh experience" and "muh gut feelings" are not going to serve you well. There is a service manual, you should read it. They aren't hydraulics, they aren't mechanicals, and setting them up as if they're one or the other is just going to frustrate you.

Read the manual, and you'll be fine, they're very good brakes. Don't ever expect the mouth breathers at your LBS to be able to work on them. If you ever have a reason to have the bike worked on by the LBS, even if they did not touch the brakes, double check the brakes because fuck heads like to play with shit they don't understand.

>>1070053
>Is this a worst of both worlds sort of set up between mechanical and hydraulic disc brakes?
No, it's the opposite actually. They have the advantages of cable brakes in that they're cheaper than a full hydraulic setup and allow you to use any brifters you want, and they have the advantages of hydraulics with automatic pad adjustment and maybe a bit more power. Unfortunately they still rely on a cable to transmit force from the lever to the caliper so they're going to feel almost as shit as regular cable brakes. That's just the way it is with drop bars and disc brakes, you either settle for shitty cable brakes or you pay out the ass for hydros.

>>1070048

I have last years CDF it's good. There is nothing wrong with the hy-rd they definitely aren't the worst of both worlds.

>>1070059
I've only ever had rim brakes before, these are gonna feel like a step up from my race bike!

>>1070054
Thanks! I never let anyone else work on my bike, after the first time I went to LBS to ask them to change freehub. Came back later to find that 'we couldn't change freehub, but we replaced the bearings in your wheels because they were too smooth the grease must have liquified'.
They had thrown out my brand new CX double sealed bearings because they didn't know what they were.
This was the moment I resolved to do everything myself.

>>1070054
Also do you know where I could get the manual?

>>1070064
Thanks, I have heard great things! And I don't mind it being a little heavy

>>1070066
The retail box version comes with a copy of the manual. Not sure what they do if you buy a bike that has them pre-installed

You can also go on the internet:

https://www.trpbrakes.com/cms.php?link=support

>>1070065
Yeah trusting the LBS can get you killed, the level of incompetence with the average "wrench" is staggering

>>1069858
>>1069864
Planning on going to a place this weekend thats not too far away. I lost faith in my most local shop after hearing a few too many bad tales.

They stock mainly Focus, Felt and Raleigh in my range.

I'm interested to try out a Raleigh Criterium Sport desu. Bit heavy and the wheels apparently aren't its best feature, which is a bit off putting, but otherwise the reviews are pretty good. They also stock Felt and Focus which seem to have some options in the £600-800 range.

Just got my first road bike coming from BMX'ing. Any suggestions for a budget rear rack or help me determine what to look for in one?

>>1070077
For commute or serious touring you might want different things. What's the intended use?

>>1070079
I just need it to commute. I'm probably going to use it to throw a medium sized gym bag on it.

>>1070077
The most important thing is to make sure the rack is sized to your wheel size (most likely 700c), and to see if your frame has rack mounts, or if you'll just have to attach it to the rear hub and seat clamp.
Other than that, just get the cheapest one that doesn't rattle around, and some bungee cords to secure your bag.

Does this seem like a good commute bike? I'm riding mostly on flat ground usually about 10 miles a day, 6 days a week.

https://miami.craigslist.org/brw/bik/6112979819.html

https://columbiamo.craigslist.org/bik/6079102927.html

does this seem reasonable. i'm 6'1 and looking for a commuter bike

>>1070048
Today is the day, any votes for the Hack 2 over the CdF?

>>1068157
Check the nut/bolt design. Iirc, modern brakes have inset nuts, while vintage frames have more general-purpose outset nuts. I'm guessing the reach is fine but the mounting bolts will not work.

bought a schwinn bike from walmart for $150 because I needed a bike in 12 hours
how hard did I fuck myself?

>>1070396
It's $150 so not very but it will be a horrible piece of shit.

I am looking at buying a hardtail, want to use it for slow touring rides and basic cross country trail rides.
Has anyone heard anything of the Carrera Kraken or Voodoo Bantu?

>>1070428
Both look good. I'd go for the Kraken for the Shimano brakes and it looks a bit better, other than that they're both really similar.

>>1070311
A little pricey tbqhwy famalamamamajama. For whatever reason those aluminum Treks don't get a lot of respect. I have that exact model and I'm going to ask $200 when I sell it

>>1070191
Looks like garbage but as long as it's tuned up, under $100 for a usable bike is not bad.

Would an old 70s/80s road bike work as a commuter if I put a rack and mudguards on it? I'm only really worried about using downtube shifters and the braking performance, as all of my commute is through the city (London). The reason I ask is that sub £200 for a commuter bike it's either 90s rigid, or an old road/touring bike- anyone got any thoughts?

>>1070637
Yes, it would work. You'd most definitely have to get new tires and brake pads to get decent performance, also make sure it doesn't have steel rims otherwise forget about breaking when it's wet outside. DT shifters are tricky at first but it doesn't take long to get the hang of them.

>>1070638

Yeah, tires and pads are a given seeing as most of them are perished anyway, I'd probably do the cabling as well whilst I'm at it. How do I check for steel rims? What am I looking for, aluminium? Shifters I wasn't so worried about anyway, as it's mostly flat so I don't tend to change gear much at all for that, only if it's really windy or I'm pretty tired.

>>1070642
>>1070638

Never mind- just realised a magnet would work perfectly well for checking. Guess I'll have to work out what they are/ask the seller to check for me, thanks

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/spring-hill/bicycles/avanti-mens-bicycle-helmet-lights-lock-and-pump-included-/1147045579

I have zero knowledge on bikes but I'm thinking of buying one for commuting. Is this legit?

>>1070315
I vote steel all the way!

>>1070642
>I don't tend to change gear much at all
It's convenient to learn how to shift gears properly, especially for stopping/accelerating at traffic lights. Nobody likes being stuck behind a guy on too big a gear struggling to take off.

>>1070836
It says SOLD

Trying to buy a new commuter for about $1000 AUD. about 10km ride to the station but would like to be able to have a shot at the whole 40km.

These are all 105 (can't tell if groupset is a meme or not doesn't add to speed?)

http://www.cellbikes.com.au/Cell-Lapa-3-0

https://www.bicyclesonline.com.au/2017-polygon-strattos-s5-shimano-105-11-speed-road

https://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/road-bikes/cannondale/vic/hawthorn/2016-cannondale-caad8-105-5/102935785

Please let me know if there are any other bikes that should be on my radar.

>>1070934

I mean I can shift gears perfectly well, I do a lot of cycling, it's also pretty rare for me to be the slowest off the lights, even on my 90s mtb, it can be hard to reach top speed anyway due to traffic and what have you

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06VY7QH15/ref=mh_s9_acsd_top_bEHqb_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-3&pf_rd_r=HFDF4QX493X9VPX8GYCF&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=58b7eb9c-40a0-54a0-922f-5216276018bb&pf_rd_i=3405201

Thoughts? This is my top candidate for my 1st quality road bike?

>>1071008
i hope your joking
you are going to regret buying that. try looking around eBay or craigslist. and consider changing your budget. think more in the region of 5 to 6 hundred for something you won't despise.
look for recognizable names in terms of parts, ie shimano, sram, champangiolo, etc.
look for something that can fit at least 30 mm tires, and has mounts for fenders and a rack (which that bike does)
I'd recommend looking at something like a second hand diamondback podium, or mongoose selous sport for a decent option, but you can find some good deals on ebay

>>1071008
im >>1071010
try looking through this search, you should be able to find something, just make sure it is the right size and has mounts like i said
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Bicycles/177831/i.html?_udhi=500.00&_geositeid=0&_sop=10&_nkw=%28gravel%2C+adventure%2C+cross%2C+cyclocross%2C+adenture%29+-mtb+-mountain+-hardtail+-mountian+-bmx+-tri+-triathlon+-thriathalon+-tt+-trials+-suspension+-cruiser+-toray+-women%27s+-boy%27s+-girl%27s+-blaster+-gravity&LH_PrefLoc=3

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Should I go for it?: https://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/6119559306.html

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Where do fellow leafs buy their parts?

I'm hoping to overhaul my bike before ride for heart next month.

I need:
Shimano R501 wheelsets
Cheap carbon seat post
Bar tapes
brake, shifter cables and housing
bearing grease
bearings
a repair stand

Repair stand:
want to get https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00OGO2LDA/ but it's fucking out of stock.
How much would I hate myself for using this to do repairs: https://www.amazon.ca/Ibera-Easy-Utility-Bicycle-Stand/dp/B00CJHCFFU/

>>1071072
I. Think it was goebbels, the power Ranger of the 4th Reich, who said "give me no woman nor wine, only my trek y foil will make me fine"

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I'm moving to Japan this year and I'm deciding between bringing my current bike or just buying a new one when I get there.

I have a Trek FX 7.1 which I'm reasonably happy with, but it will cost me about $200 to bring with me. I don't have a lot of experience with long-distance biking but I'd like to get into it once I arrive.

Does anyone have experience with buying a road bike in Japan? I hear its more expensive there. I'd like to stay under ￥50,000 but maybe it's not possible.

>>1071409
The have lots of Japan only touring bikes, which are reasonable compared to say a Surly (expensive) but mostly only in manlet sizes. Search Rakuten for an idea on prices.

>>1071083
wiggle + chain reaction

i made my own work stand out of wood. works pretty good.

Yo, someone in Wisconsin go and get this. That is all.

https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/bop/6113364209.html

>>1071409
Get mini velo while you have the chance! Finding those little bitches overseas is, well...a bitch.

In any case ship rather than buy unless the cost of the bike is somehow less than the cost of the shipping.

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need some help choosing a cyclocomputer :D

want one with cadence and hr monitor. hopefully they sell all needed for that in one pack (or one place) and best if its all wireless.

i do not care about strava or maps or any other fancy stuff. btw i do not have a smartphone (have a old brick).

another important thing: i want something decent but cheaper is better. dont want to spend big bucks in a garmin as next year will be my first year really training (road bike btw), but at the same time im old (over 30) and i do this as recreation. i like pushing myself but dont know how i will take true training, my plan is to train for a year, maybe 2(see my limits) , then go back to riding relaxed (and randomly traing, or in other words, not really training).

so what are best options? ive seen a polar cs500 but it doesnt have very good reviews, and its old.. people tell me go ant+ for compatibilty in the future.. but i dont really care about so much future... any input is cool, pic is other brand im currently reserching. im overseas so implanning on buying online. thanks peoooooooooooople

for real, thanks!

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Did I fuck up? Needed something that was actually my size for around $400 that I could finance on Amazon. Been browsing local CL for months off and on and it's turned up nothing attractive. Most worrying thing would be if the front fork is garbon or not.

>>1071489
https://poseidonbike.com/products/poseidon-sport-4-0

I'm looking to spend ~1500 CAD on a road bike. What should I buy.

>>1071489
For 400$ doesn't look really terrible, yes, it is low tier but it will work probably, and it will be new with warranty. I had a similar low tier bike and had zero problems with it. As always, the shittiest part of that bike are the wheels.

>>1071586
Caad optimo

I need a semi decent road frame for ~ 200€
apparently there is nothing on the used market right now here in germany.

are there any weird brands that sell something like this ?
maybe something decent aluminium straight from china ?

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>>1071475
anyone? :D

I'm really fighting myself right now. All this time I've been looking at buying something fairly entry level, given that it's exactly where I'm at in regards to the sport/hobby, but I rode a carbon 105 equipped bike and now my budget is creeping.

>>1071664
fuck money bro. who the hell needs it so much.
well some people do, but if you can, dont be afraid to spend money on stuff you like.

i dont think you have to go carbon frame though..as a noob you will make mistakes and stuff.. i would go with a good alu bike with 105. could be a cannondale caad or felt f75, something in those lines. also i would def buy used , but nothing too old, so make it 10 or 11 speed..check your local stuuff, wait a bit for the right stuff.

if you end up not using to much, you sell it. also i wouldnt go carbon frame cause that means not buying used(for me, as you never know what happened to that frame and you dont want a carbon frame fucking you up).
last year a friend bought a felt f75 2016 that had been used 5 months mostly on a trainer for half of its new price. search for something like that. :D

>>1071699
I've found some amazing clearance deals but unfortunately nothing in my sizes.

I'm thinking I'll let myself go as far as a Tiagra group set since the new version seems pretty impressive. You're right about the carbon thing, I agree, but damn it was light and comfy.

I'll snap before long and just put the money down for something, hopefully.

>>1071712
are you from the states or europe or some developed country? if you are go test ride a couple of new bikes.. try some carbon vs some good alu bikes as the ones mentioned (the cannondale cad series are available in a lot of places for instance).

this way you can get 2 things: be sure about the right size for you (and see what models are more comfy for you) but also check the differences between a good alu bike and carbon.

i will be honest, i havent ridden a ton of bikes, and i have never owned a real carbon one. but when choosing my current bike (that was finally an alu one)... i had limited options due to my location..thing is a good alu bike is usually gonna weight near 9kg with pedals (and stock or cheap wheels), then you have a price bump to carbon.. and bikes are lighter , but not so much, without spending a lot more you are looking at a 8kg bike, yes you can go down even to 5.5 or whatever but that mens spending a ton of money.

so i type a lot and my english sucks. long story short, i dont think a "cheap" carbon bike is so much better than an alu bike. just a bit in weight and price doesnt justify it.. also think of it this way.. if you get a good drivechain and latter you wanna upgrade your frame, you can do it.. and also.. weight is important but when you ride more you will see that small differences dont really make a difference(in fun and stuff) unless youre really racing.. who knows, just my point of view.

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Dumb guy here. Bought a fuji declaration as my first bike recently. How bad did I fuck up and what parts should I replace first?

I am looking for a budget mountain bike. Not worried about weight as plan on throwing on a pannier rack most of the time. About once a week will be taking it to a mountain bike park that has red, blue and green trails. I want a hardtail but not sure what brands are reliable. What is your opinion?
I have a Halfords and Edinburgh Bike Coop near me and would rather buy from a shop.
Not exactly sure about budget yet, something like 300GBP to 600GBP.

>>1071664
>>1071712
I'd recommend some good alu bike like Cannondale Caad with either 105 or Tiagra groupset. Yes carbon is nicer and all that but if it's your first proper bike I'd recommend staying in a relatively low price range with is what alu with 105/tiagra allows for. You won't know exactly what you want as you're buying your first bike and so the chances of getting it exactly right the first time are pretty slim. However once you've got some experience you can start looking into a carbon bike you like with better components.

The other advantage of going through it this way is that once you buy that nice carbon bike you're still left with a relatively cheap but still good alu bike that can be used for commuting, getting around town, in bad weather, or any other occasion when you don't want to use the fancy bike for whatever reason.

>>1071770
>fuji declaration
>11.93 kg
wut ?

Since this is a fixie/singlespeed there is not much to replace. Just ride it and have fun. There is not much point to replace brand new parts, especially if it's your first bike.

Change the saddle if it realy doesn't fit your butt.

>>1071770
>>1071828
Agreed. If you're like me and have a weird-ass ass, scrounge up some dough and get an SMP. I wasted like 150 dollars on cheaper saddles before I bit the bullet on an smp dynamic. I've been happy since.

>>1071828
Steel is real, real heavy.

>>1071083
wiggle, ribble, chainreaction for most stuff. Generally in that order but wiggle to me hasn't been as good lately

aliexpress if I want cheap garbon components just pay for ePacket shipping or wait 3 months.

>>1071828
Yea it was way heavier than the feather I tried, but cheaper and felt safer and smoother for a noob since it has wider tires.

Where do you think the extra weight is if I want to shed some pounds?

how many bikes do y'all have? i have one.. kinda want another but I can't really justify it? Mine is a cyclocross/gravel bike

>>1069659
$550 can't go wrong. I'd have to see what other options you had.

>>1071646
>>1071475
Get a 520 you cheap fuck.

Guys, I want a robust hard tail mountain bike or preferably a cyclocross bike. Except I'm a poorfag.

What's the most affordable price range to get something decent to start trail riding on? I want to figure out what to save up for.

I'm 6'0", 32'' inseam and in Phoenix, AZ.

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>>1072026
>one bike
Do you even n+1?

>>1072037
Get one that's like 7-10 years old. There are plenty of Freds who bought a bike in 2008 and rode it like 100 miles a year or less.

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been riding cheap mountain bikes all my life, decided to invest in a quality road bike as my daily rider, my budget is around 550 ish USD, this will also be my 1st non mountain bike and im 6f 5i.
Here are my top options, from my self confessed inexperienced research

Tommaso Imola Compact Aluminum Road Bike

Diamondback Century Sport Road

Vilano Aluminum Road Bike 21 Speed W/ Shimano

other option is a Trek 1.1 C H2 at the local bike shop, 599 USD but comes with lifetime service adjustments, thoughts? yes i know nothing of real bikes

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What do you think of this bike for a guy whos rated for the 20-21" range of sizes.

Im looking for a cheap-ish roadster that will take me arround town and carry my shit

>>1072055
>quality bike
>budget around $550
Kek

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just saw this Fuji Newest 1.0 pop up a few minutes ago on Craigslist while browsing for a new bike, its only 50 bucks and the guy said the only thing wrong with it is the cable that adjusts the chain near the pedals is broken, but the rear gears can be adjusted just fine. I already said Im down to get it since even if all that shit was broke Id just replace it, but Im curious how good of a deal this is since Im just getting it because I want a road bike and not to resell or anything.

>>1072172
Well... "crappy" is technically a quality.

>>1072176
Looks like that bike is running a slightly older tiagra groupset. Assuming the only issue is that the front derailer cable is broke, the group alone is worth about 50$.
If the bike is a good fit for your body size, it's a stellar deal, though you might want to swap out the pedals and saddle at some point.

>>1072172
Go take your fixe into traffic

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>>1072207
even if its too big for me (Im on the way to check it out right now) Ive got a taller relative who just had his road bike stolen that Ill give it to. thanks for the info!

>>1072176
YEEEEEEEEEEEEE BUY IT
BUY IT FAST BEFORE SOME OTHER NIGGER BUYS IT
FUJIS ARE GREAT

>>1072172
He can get a quality bike for $550 if he buys used.
>>1072055
Buy an old ten speed steel road bike on Craigslist. Or save up some more money. Any new road bike at that price point will be shit.

>>1072037
If you want really cheap ($100+, but more like $200+ after replacing parts/paying LBS for adjustments), but a used 90s rigid (no suspension) mountain bike on Craigslist.
If you are willing to spend a bit more money, check out pinkbike.com/buysell

>>1072026
I currently have 5:
>Carbon road bike
>80s steel road bike
>Enduro bike
>80s rigid mountain bike
>Hybrid (currently set up as a rando rig, gonna turn it into a troll bike)

Wanting two more:
>Fat bike (>inb4 memes)
>Full custom touring/bikepacking bike with custom built frameset

I am pretty non-materialistic/non-consumerist in general but bikes are kinda an exception. Once I get the fatty and the custom tourer I'll be content with no more.

Is it reasonable to get a good touring bicycle for under $1000?

>>1072280
yeah, fuji does one - i love mine.

>>1072280
RIGID 90S MTB WITH SEMISLICKS
Actually unironically a good option for touring in 3rd world shitholes because of how standardized/universal/replacable the parts/specs are.

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>>1072172
Bait/10

>>1072312
Until further notice, there are two, and only 2, options for anyone who wants a quality bike under $200

>old rigid mountain bike with slicks
>80's chromoly road bike

Tbqhwy famalamama'am, I enjoy riding my 1991 Specialized Sirrus more than I did my 2011 Tarmac. Spent a grand total of $70 on the sirrus

>>1072280
Depends where but yeh, ezzzz. You can usually just go with a mid range CX bike

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Which Kona would you get? The Paddy Wagon is a 3 speed with a geared hub.

>>1068171
Buy V's if you dont care for retro. A set of shimano deore brakes fully costs 40$!

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/de/de/shimano/bremsen/mtb-v-brakes
Or cheapo:
https://www.amazon.com/Promax-360859-V-Brake-Set-Black/dp/B007Y5GDZK

I reccomend Deore, but really only because I managed to find a way to get levers+brakes for 40 euro total, being in the dollar zone, seems to have you cucked desu senpai, but oh well, gl.

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>want to buy Fuji Touring
>not available in Japan

Should I just buy it while I'm in Canada and bring it on the plane?

Im going to be riding about 1.5 hours a day on mostly bike paths in the city.
I did it last year on a shitty bike.

I want to get a new bike, but have no idea what i should be buying. I'd like to spend around 300 maple bucks.
Is a bike from a box store like canadian tire really that bad? all bike stores I can find cheapest bike is 450-500 which is too much for me.
Something like http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/supercycle-700c-circuit-bike-0711720p.html

>>1072477
>bring it on the plane
Just call it "sporting goods". Or get really offended and tell them you sexually identify as a bicycle and this is your submissive qt bikefu

>>1072398
Derailleur version. Internal hubs are cancerous imo

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>bike is twice the price in Canada

Why did Triples become a meme? I want a triple!!

I need help finding a new wheelset to upgrade to.

My budget is 400 but my only issue is this. I'm 124kg and have been told my only options are 32+ spoke wheels, this only really limits me to Mavis open pros/sport but is it worth it to build a wheel? Or should I get a lower spoke count with higher tension on the wheels? What other options for wheelsets do I really have or am I just doomed have to build a custom wheel?

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Can someone help me identify this bike? The pics are terrible and the guy gives no info. Found it on Kijiji in Montreal. Here is the ad: http://www.kijiji.ca/v-velo-de-route/longueuil-rive-sud/cannandale/1259773934

>>1072582
I would suggest looking at 29" mountain rims, especially as you'll want to run larger tyres, but I'm guessing you're using rim brakes (even though I can't imagine they're very effective at that weight). Maybe you can find some that are still rim brake compatible.

>>1072584
Its for a road bike 700c so I don't have a choice really for 29" wheelsets

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Specialized sirrus bike, looks 1990
450$ montreal
Would commute to class with it and long city rides in summer. I think its overpriced but by how much?

>>1071847
Even 4130 ?

>>1071847
Tbqhwy senpai, it depends on the quality of the metal. A Reynolds 531 or similar is pretty light, responsive, and comfortable. An aluminum Next from Walmart is none of those things.

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I need help /n/. How the fuck do I find a bike that fits a 6'9" mutant?

>find seemingly perfect bike, just what I'm after at very reasonable price
>find out its way too far away to be a practical purchase

If I was spending 3 grans I'd be willing to drive that far but it's hard to justify spending a big chunk of the bikes cost on fuel.

Keeps happening to me though, there's fuck all in my area. Someone must be melting down bikes or something.

>>1069137
CX bike sounds a better bet to me, desu.

>>1072733
Used? Get lucky.

Your best bet is probably cycling clubs and forums. Hope you find other lanky fuckers who've just upgraded.

>>1072654
Pls respond

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>>1072477
After researching, I found out that apparently the Jamis Aurura is the basically same bike. So now I'm leaning towards the Aurora for a touring bike.

I've never gone mountain biking before, but I really want to.

Is a something like this too good to be true if I'm not sure I want to commit yet? Will a rough trail shake it apart? DO I even need full suspension?

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/fsx_1.htm

>>1073514
It's shit, at that price point you should be looking at hardtails and probably second hand.

>>1073514
>DO I even need full suspension?
absolutely not. you don't need any kind of suspension if you're just starting out. shitty cheap suspension will just make your life harder when when it bounces around uncontrollably and eventually breaks or seizes up.

>>1073643
This. Maintaining the low end pivots and shocks is not worth it. It's best to start out with a hardtail or even an old rigid frame running 2.2's

What's a good place to find bikes besides Craigslist or eBay?
I'm trying to find a 2012 Cervelo R3 because I love the blue and white look and want a climbing bike, but the couple I can find are on eBay and are 56cm.

do y'all have opinions/recs on action cameras?

What's a good drop bar commuter? I want to ride over expansion joints and driveways with panniers on a rack, without feeling like I'm beating the bike apart.

>>1073843
Anything? Steel frame with nice wide tires should be fine. Bikes are pretty tough creatures. Steel because it tends to bend rather than break if you hit something way too hard.

What's a /n/ approved helmet?

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>>1073858
Pic related

>>1073860 JUSTICE CRASH

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Looking at a well-kept 2013 Norco Revolver 3 that's been stripped/part-swapped from 35 to 24 lbs. $2000 Can, or haggle lower?

>>1073858
Giro Air Attack

>>1073953
There was no Revolver 3 in 2013 and the 2012 Revolver 3 was 30 pounds stock. 11 pounds would be a shit ton of weight to drop and the parts required to do so would most likely cost more than $2kCAD. Dropping 6 pounds is probably more realistic at that price point, but we can't comment on whether it's worth it without a fairly detailed parts list.

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>>1073858

>>1073957
1x conversion with 42t add-on cog, Stans wheels, Fizik carbon-rail saddle, carbon seatpost/clamp/stem/handlebar, Continental raceking 2.2 w/tubes. I'm looking to go tubeless.

>>1073983
If that's all he's changed then it's highly unlikely he's dropped 6 pounds, most of the weight saving would be in the wheels so the stock ones would need to be very heavy which is unlikely on a 30 pound aluminium full susser. I'd say it's probably closer to 27-28 pounds.

That said the price is probably reasonable for what it is, brand new it was like $3.3kCAD and has probably had another 500 or so spent on it (of course that's replacing stock parts, not in addition). It usually doesn't hurt to try and haggle but I wouldn't be disappointed if you had to pay the asking price.

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Just got this off cl accordo Centurion made in Japan. Rides nice now needs to be cleaned new pedals, and bar tape to start. What else?

Oh yea there is like black tar goo all over the once white hoods..

>>1073994
>vertical picture of horizontal subject
>auto flip
>3.63MB, 5312x2988
Goddamn phoneposters
Nice bike though, I'd just get new rubber hoods

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I know literally nothing about bikes and I'm looking to buy one so I can bike to work. It's 3 km away so I can do it easily.

Is this bike any good?

https://www.regalbicycles.com/collections/bicycles-1/products/the-raptor?variant=801997593

I like the "fixie" look as I've seen in other posts.

I have a cross country full suspension bike.

Looking to move to an all mountain/enduro.

Budget is about 3k, any suggestions?

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good idea ?

I'm about to pull the trigger on a GIANT KHS flite 300 2016 for 600 usd, 2 year warranty and 3 years I get half its value back with trade in

>>1074041
I've always wanted to ride one of these

>>1074035
>I know literally nothing about bikes
Please get something with at least two brakes

>>1074125
Do it

>>1074041
>tfw no perfectly in sync gf to ride with
I need a hug, /n/

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Hi guys, can I get some advice on this bike?

Price is around $200-210 USD. The ad says it's in good condition. The main thing I'm worried about is the light rust on the bike, is this okay?

http://allegro.pl/kolarzowka-szosa-rower-szosowy-peugeot-bialy-28-i6814887571.html

Is there an ideal wheel/tire size on a road bike for a daily commute? eg. 700 x 23c

I'm thinking about buying a disk brake cyclocross bike. I have a $1000 budget, but that $1000 needs to cover pedals, shoes & cleats. Should I look at the used market or the cheap home assembly stores like bikes direct?

>>1074290
I would go as wide as your bike allows. I ride 23mm on my road bike but 32mm on my commuter.

>>1074291
Don't actually have the bike yet, trying to figure out what to get.

>>1074292
It's hard to say without even knowing what kind of bike you're talking about, but for 26" I'd go 1.5" and for 700 go 28c. Good balance between speed and comfy.

>>1074286
Looks pretty pristine to me, I'd buy the shit out of it
Ask for the shoes that go with those pedals too

I'm looking into getting into biking, specifically mountain biking. I've done a fair bit of research and seen that the lowest entry point is about $500-600, which gets me front suspension, hydraulic brakes, and Shimano drive train, usually 3x7/8. But now I am questioning this and wondering if I shouldn't save for something nicer.

What would you all recommend as the best bike to get into mountain biking?

>>1074297
When it comes to tires, reducing rolling resistance is just as important as air resistance, if not more so. Wider tires are faster anyway, due to less rolling resistance. The 23 meme is over.

>>1074337
Triples suck, you want at least 2x9 and ideally 10 speed so you can then upgrade to 1x with an 11-42 Sunrace cassette. That said as you can put a 10 speed cassette on an 8 speed hub it's always an upgrade you can do in the future, more expensive in the long run as you'll be replacing quite a few components but cheaper up front if you want to ride now instead of waiting until you've saved up more money.

>>1074339
Thanks. I have no objection to wait to ride, hence is why I am asking the question.

So you'd recommend to wait until I can afford a 1x10/11? That's about a $1000-1100, yes?

>>1074341
I don't look at new bikes much as I don't buy them, however I found the Cube Attention which comes to just under $1k when converted from my currency so you're probably right.

>>1074339
>Triples suck
Nothing wrong with a triple if you are just starting out. I'd 100% spend any extra money on not having a garbage pogo stick front suspension over meme-drivetrains.

3x8 usually would have all the gears you will ever need and then some. It's a bit heavier than a 1x but shifts gears when you push the lever and that's all you need in the beginning.

>>1074368
Suck was perhaps a poor description. What I should have said is they're unnecessary and just add extra weight and shit to hit on rocks and logs. You don't need 40:11 on a mountain bike. 1x is objectively better than 2x in that it's lighter, simpler to operate, more reliable, and can have better chain retention.

>>1074035
does not look like very good value.. if you do get it, keep the brakes on it and use the freewheel (not fixed) at least until you know better.
>>1074040
Wrong place to ask about that stuff. My personal favorite is the Pole Evolink thing, but I don't know much about full sus bikes.
>>1074290
Depends on your roads. I'd say it's never under 28mm anyway. Generally bigger is comfier and the downsides don't matter for commuting.

>>1074371
I agree on your points in general, but cheap bikes often have a triple and these bikes have much bigger problems than the extra chainring(s).
I wouldn't worry about it. Upgrade the drivetrain when it wears out or starts to bother you. Try to find a frame and fork that you like is first priority.

Looking for a road bike recommendation for my dad. I'm a total noob about brands and quality...
He's 5'7.5-5'8. Budget ~$1500. Or less if you guys think a lower price starter bike would be better. From SF/Bay Area

>>1074374
Actual racing bike or just recreational riding?

>>1074375
He's a total noob too. He will not be participating in any competitions. I do want something that is easy and smooth for him to ride though. Don't think he's a fan of clip in shoes either.

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>>1074374
>>1074376
I'd say the Kona Tonk is a no brainer. It's pretty (downright gorgeous, in fact), decently speced, relaxed, quality steel Reynolds tubing for retro looks and comfort, and it takes plush tyres to save the old mans back. The new stealth routing Sora shifters are excellent, the derailleur accepts very wide range cassettes and it comes with good old 32 spoke 3-cross wheels - which is a plus in my book.

The only thing I'd change from day one is the brake pads. Get cartridges and either salmons or R55C4. The latter are a bit harsh sounding but very well modulating, hold up well in the wet and last forever. The former is a classic.

>>1074376
There are plenty of choices for that budget. I'd look for something with compact cranks, room for at least 28mm tires and a tall headtube.

I have a GT Grade, it has all that. For the size I'm too tired to convert to metric so maybe later.

Have a look at it to get a starting point for comparison, there are lots of spec levels for different budgets.

http://www.gtbicycles.com/usa_en/2017/bikes/pavement/enduroad/grade-105

>>1074407
>The only thing
Yes, well, and the tyres obviously, but that goes without saying on just about any bike. The good news is that it's so well under you budget that you can afford to make upgrades.
Some 28mm GP4000IIs with latex tubes for screaming along or 32mm Voyager Hyper with thin butyl tubes for more plush with less maintenance and speed.

Spend the remaining hundreds on beer.

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>>1074408
>scoops out eyes with spoon
T-that is the most hideous looking non-BSO bike I have ever seen.

>>1074414
haha. I guess it's not to everyones tastes, I quite like it myself.

What is a good comfy touring/travel-purpose bike for under 1000usd? I am 5'8 and I was thinking of traveling across japan/korea on a bike. For a couple of months or so. What would be a good bike?

I'm obsessing over two older model bikes

>Merida One-Forty 1500

>Merida One-Twenty XT-M

They're 2013 models I think and each around $650. Not sure if the right price and which one is better.

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I want to buy a new bike since m¡ine is old and fucked, want it for mainly road but for offroad too, I like fixie they look cool and all, is it a good idea? looking into the 200-300eu price range

https://www.amazon.es/KS-Cycling-Flip-Flop-110R/dp/B00JXNGC16/ref=pd_sbs_200_37?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JF1ATXV5WJ6HB388PG0A

>>1074580
Well the One-Twenty is technically better with the XT components, the One-Forty switches that out for SLX for 30/20mm extra travel. The price is good for either of them if they're in good condition, the choice is going to come down to whether you feel you need that extra travel.

I'm curious about getting a new bike, my old days of using my BMX are not going to return and I think a single speed bike would be an ideal choice for me to replace it. Budget below £500 (someone convert that to Ameribucks) and I am completely clueless.

>>1074634
https://www.evanscycles.com/charge-plug-0-2017-singlespeed-bike-EV290665

>>1074638
https://www.evanscycles.com/kona-paddy-wagon-stubby-bar-2016-singlespeed-bike-EV302316
Actually this might be better value if the size suits you and you don't mind the skinny tires.

>>1074640
>>1074638

thanks man, I'm only really familiar with the Charge Plug but that seems like a safe bet, but since you shared the other, what would skinny tires do to benefit/hinder me?

>>1074644
Less comfortable on rough roads and gravel paths mainly. In theory they might be faster on smooth roads, but not much in it.

I have ridden the paddy wagon (with the bullhorn/TT bars, not the flat bar model) and it's a pretty nice riding and comfortable bike even with the 28mm tires in my opinion. Very nice steel frame on it.

Hey /bbg/ looking to buy a bike to do some ubereats work.
I'm in Brisbane, budget is $400, I'm 5'6 so looking for smaller sized frames
Looking at 2 bikes now
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/sandgate/bicycles/emc-road-bike/1148478459
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/fortitude-valley/bicycles/2014-reid-osprey-elite/1147680679
If there's anything nearby worth upping my budget for I could think about it.

>>1074372
>>1074164

What bike is good then? I want something REALLY cheap but up-gradable

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Good buy? Looking for a cheap starter bike for my tiny GF - something that she can ride with me on the weekends, reasonably fast so she has fun, but won't break the bank if she isn't into it.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/6129947942.html

>>1074605

Thanks. So either one is fine and there doesn't seem to be a too big a difference in quality compared to newer models other than the wheel sizes.

I tried a bike and the LBS said that I'm in between two sizes. How do I choose?

>>1075119
Do you have long or short arms/legs for somebody your height?

If so, go with the larger or smaller size. If not, fuck if I know, ride both and try to see if there are any differences.

I just went with the Medium for my first bikes (i'm between medium and small) and for my next mountain bike I'll go small.

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Anyone use Decathlon's cheap city bikes before? The B'twin Hoptown 300 and 320. Am poorfag and was thinking of getting one for last-mile commuting and running errands within a mile or two of my home.

>>1075119
Test ride. Trust your ass. If they both feel equal, choose the smaller one, as it's easier to correct for too small than too large.

>>1074337
>>1074341

Focus on getting GOOD suspension, as in something better than a cheap Suntour series. The drivetrain that comes with that will be good enough to start

>About 1k
A safe budget. You can probably aim a touch lower, especially if you pick up a closeout or a good sale.


>>1074754
>Really cheap
Go with the used market.

I need a commuter bike for mainly steeps roads and maybe a tiny bit of rough asphalt sidewalk use. I've never used dropped handlebars but would prefer them to be straight anyway. I like uncomplicated gears so the less the better. My budget is rather small. Any recommendations?

I don't really know what to look for in used bikes in terms of the wheel/tire size.

>>1076147
Used mountain bike. Any of the major wheel sizes is fine. 26, 29, 650b. You probably want no suspension, but if you get it, avoid shitty suspension.