/Bike Questions General/

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OP here again, i you have any suggestions for me to get the best beater/workhorse bike experience out of this bike, please let me know.

I'm looking for a set of front panniers, perferably waterproff and as cheap as possible
any ideas ?

>Do i need to change the crankset? to a 2x or 1x
No.

>>1058569
Like discarded cat litter box cheap?

>>1058569
try the german brand "haberland" they tend to be rather inexpensive

>>1058572

cat litter box cheap would be cool , but I don't think that there are any that cheap out there.

50€ for 2 20l frontrack panniers would be okay
lower would be great.

I just saw some ortlieb city frotrollers for like 70 with shipping.
but as I said lower would be nice.

>>1058577
I just looked at their site and the waterproof ones are sadly to big and rather expansive with 105€ for one bag.

thanks anyway for the suggestion

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Will a few wraps of FiberFix make this right? It's 2030 steel tubing, and the dent didn't crack through.

>>1058600
no, u gun die and why are there 2 BQGs on the front page?

What to look for in a good seat?
I think it has to be wide enough as most seats are too narrow for me.
Is there some sort of guide

>>1058605
the other one is the bike buying general

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>>1058582
>cat litter box cheap would be cool , but I don't think that there are any that cheap out there.
see pic, also if want something really cheap but pannier-shaped I'd look on Nashbar, there are pannier sets that aren't waterproof on their own, but come with covers that you can pull over the bags in case of rain.

>>1058600
If the tube is just dented, but without a sharp crease, it's unlikely to fail anytime soon. On the other hand, if the stay is now bent to the point that your wheel alignment is off, then you have an entirely different problem. Either way, fiberfix isn't going to solve your problem.

>>1058606
www.artscyclery.com/learningcenter/bicyclesaddleshape.html

>>1058611
So I shouldn't bother reinforcing it at all?

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I've ordered nearly every part for a bicycle, but never a fork. I'm refurbishing a bike for a buddy and the fork is bent and I want to order one. What are things I need to look for? It's a 1 inch threaded fork with canti posts for a 26 wheel. Pic related..

>>1058611
How do you secure the litter boxes to the rack?

>>1058833
you can get a 1" threaded suspension fork with posts and disc mounts for about $60 on ebay new but they prob suck. You can get an old rock shox judy with posts for about the same. If you just want an old rigid with rim brake posts just get one off a cheap thrift store bike/junkyard/yardsale. If bike is pic related- I'd get the old rs judy.

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>>1058867
with the cats

I have a frame, it used to be a fixed gear bike until I got a new one. I took off all the parts & hung the frame
Is it possible to turn it back into a road bike?

>>1059124
Depends

>>1059126
on?

>>1059146
Mostly on the dropouts

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>>1059149

>>1059154
Yeah, those are road dropouts.

>>1059154
>>1059156
Your choices for derailleurs will be limited to those where the hanger is held on by the QR/axle rather than bolted to the frame.

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>>1059179
Or you can get one of these and use whatever RD

>>1059187
>>1059179
ok thanks for the answers

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Anyone here ride bikes when high? Share your experience.

>>1059192
Albert hoffman did

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_lysergic_acid_diethylamide#.22Bicycle_Day.22

>>1059192
On weed, if it's a leisure ride through a park or bike lane, it's a lot ot fun. But if I'm riding on heavy traffic or going too fast I get pretty anxious, plus I feel weaker. Most of my friends have opposite experiences though.

>>1059192
No,drugs are for degenerates, .

>>1059192
I'm way faster when high, race me.

>>1059192
I've rolled and smoked a joint while riding home from school. 10/10 would recommend.

>>1059250
Go back to >>>/pol/ you pasty nerd.

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>>1059192
On anything above a 10 miler, I pre-roll a blunt and save it for the midpoint. I seriously think weed is a performance enhancing drug.

That being said, I took some bong rips before going on a ride in the ran the other day and crashed for the first time on this bike. Some idiot decided to pull to the right just as I was getting into the right turn lane. Slammed on the brakes and lowsided. The guy didn't even turn right.

Pic related

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2 questions:
1- all of my life i have ridden mtb's so im well familiarized with changing tubes when getting flats on the road. Now i got my first road bike, when riding it i carry a spare tube,mini hand pump and a small screwdriver i use as a demounter. question is.. will i be ok in case of a flat? or should i "practice" at least once at home? the changing of the tube im talking about. i have no real need to do it but im scared that mounting the tire or who knows what could be tricky and screw me on the road. wheels are nothing fancy, stock wheels from a felt f75 bikes, i do know the wheels where converted to tubeless and then back to stock normal tube. should tha be a concern?

2) whats up with this thing? 39k and seems to be singlespeed? or maybe a igh? what?
http://pg.de/#_bike

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It's about 8C/46.4F out currently. I consider this warm enough to start wearing short bibs again (and a short sleeve jersey with a gilet).

I've had more than one cyclist buddy tell me that I'm doing some vague kind of harm to myself by not dressing warmer in "cold" weather. Honestly I don't feel cold and this isn't racing season yet; is there any likelihood of causing some kind of physiological damage to my body by not dressing warmer?

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>>1059314
>special* urban bike
>*The special bike is a piece of sports equipment which is not intended to be used on public roads.

U R B A N
R
B
A
N

>>1059314
>a small screwdriver i use as a demounter
Sounds like a great way to ruin your rims and/or tires. Get some proper tire levels, they're like $6 for a set.

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Got this Tange Ind. Champion #2 from a friend for free. How do I retro?

I've acquired an old Dawes Galaxy frame, with a pretty much brand new Sora groupset. I'm going to re do the cabling and replace the wheelset.

My question is about size. The frame is 55cm, and the Dawes sizing guide says this is fine for anyone 5' 8'' or so. I'm 6', and normally ride a 56cm frame (with a much sportier geometry).

Will riding the 55cm Galaxy be fine for me (just in a much sportier position than it's intended touring geometry) or is it going to cause me problems? I want to convert it to a rough commuter for leaving at stations, maybe go camping with it as it has rack and panniers.

Thanks!

>>1059124
Yes, it's the other way around that the dropouts can be a problem.

>>1059331
My suggestion is to put it back together and ride it.

>>1059840
Yes, it'll be fine, you might need to find a longer seatpost/stem though. 1cm is not that big of a difference, and it's perfectly normal to actually prefer frames on the small end of your optimal range.

>>1059316
If you're comfortable at those temperatures with that amount of clothing then you're not doing any harm to yourself. The guy you talked to is probably thinking about the synovial fluid in your joints, which doesn't work as effectively in the cold (part of why your arms go stiff on a long descent in the cold without insulation), but 8C is not cold enough to impact your joints (read: knees), and you'd notice very quickly if it was.

>>1059868
Yeah if it was 1cm difference with the normal geometry I wouldn't blink, but it's a touring bike. The sizing recommendation for a 6' guy is the 60cm option. The 54/55 is for a 5'8''; someone 4 inches shorter than me. I can set the bike to be ridable, but only in quite an aggressive position similar to the bike I race on, ad with a lot of post showing.

>>1059868
>>1059879
Just rechecked, the 54 cm frame is actually for someone 5'4'' to 5'7'', so even smaller than I thought.

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I need a tube repair kit and a pump for taking them with me on a ride.
What to buy?

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Hey /n/. Just picked up pic related at a yard sale, $5. How did I do?

I've only really lurked here a couple of times, and don't really know all that much about bikes. Hell, I hardly know anything besides "stay away from dept store bikes." which this turned out to be after a quick google search. Should I bother fixing it up and keeping it? Or should I try and flip it? Besides the tires and the lack of air in them, and the rusty parts, do you guys think it needs plenty of work? I also planned on sanding it down a little and giving it a new paint job depending on whether or not it's a keeper or not. I've been wanting to get into cycling and start taking advantage of my bike friendly surroundings and public transportation, and figured this could be a start. Thanks!

>>1059908
You got a bicycle that you would have to pay ME $5 to take home.

just ride it until it breaks, dont sink more than $20 bucks into it.

If you have some sort of smart phone, google the brand name when you see another bike at a rummage sale so you dont make the mistake again

>>1059927
Don't listen to this spoiledfag, that bicycle is perfect for casual commuting, you got a great deal, ride it until it falls apart.

>>1059883
A tube repair kit and a pump

>>1059936
I do need to fix or get new brakes, and I want to fix the handlebar, and give it a new paintjob cuz I'm not really digging that baby puke green.

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what water bottles do you guys recommend? this will be my first summer commuting. metal, hard plastic, soft/squeezable, spout or straw? right now I'm considering pic related because I'm partial to nalgene and it fits the cage well.

>>1059959
I used a non-cycling-specific bottle for a while, but it kept launching out of my bottle cage and eventually it burst, to the delight of the guy riding behind me

I switched to bike-specific bottles and haven't had the problem since

One thing you'll quickly learn if you're legitimately commuting and not just riding when it's "nice" out like a fred, is that bike-specific stuff exists for a reason and that reason is not fashion

>>1059959
Insulated bottles are nice in Summer. I have an Elite Iceberg which they say is good for 2 hours, they also do 3, 4, and 12 hour bottles.

>>1059971
where do you buy these "specific" bottles online?

>>1059974
Wherever you want, I guess. I mean, it's a bike water bottle what do you want me to name some stores? Amazon, ebay, nashbar, performance, western bike works, wiggle, chain reaction...

I got mine at the local brick & mortar with their logo on it so I can make it look like I support local businesses

>>1059908
m8, that bike is trash. i wouldn't put a dollar into that thing, just ride it while you can.

Recently started riding some fairly aggressive trails on a rigid mtb. How much damage am I doing to my body and joints by doing this? Any advice for riding rigid?

>>1060021
Just potential harm to your perenium. Rigid bikes buck more and the saddle can repetitively hammer your gooch. My recommendation, keep the saddle on the low side. Otherwise, you're fine

>>1060003
why is it trash though? I'm not exactly loaded and i think for $5 I did good. Sure it'll be a bit more to repair and "improve it," but I don't exactly know all that much about bikes. Hence being here.

>>1060044
All the components on that bike are designed to break beyond the potential for repair within a few hundred miles of moderate riding.

A car is totaled when it will cost more than the value of the car to repair it.

That bike is totaled under this same principal. It is worth $5 to all but the dupeable. Do not invest more than $5 in parts or labor or your own time.

If you want to change the color, do nothing more than grab a can of spray paint and unload on it.

Really what you have in your possession is not a bike but an object shaped like a bike a.k.a. a BSO.

>>1060047
How do you explain all those beater bikes out in the wild then? I see tons of people with just run of the mill Target bikes, all which seem to go through hell and still work OK. I'm not saying other, better bikes aren't obviously superior, but this one itself, brakes aside and trashed handlebar (but clearly abused by the previous owner) seems to be in good shape.

can anyone help me with question number 1 here?:
>>1059314

>>1059326
ok will do, but should i replace a tube for testing? or remove and put it back again? thonks

riding currently on a giant pr_2 wheelset. I find them, compared to my mtb too relaxed/unresponsive. im thinking of getting either shimshim ultegra or fulcrum racing 3. they also need to be stiff, since i sometimes drive on bumpy agricultural roads. Thing is, though: is upgrading a wheelset an meme?

>>1058564
to improve riding quality, narrow (1.5") slick tyres, then you should add mudguards and somdething to carry things (rack or basket) and lights if you need them. Bar ends are a nice addition too.

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>>1060067
It's not a meme.

For instance, there is an appreciable difference riding pic related with that 36 spoke trekking wheelset I built and some Mavic Cosmic Elites. The Mavics feel a lot more responsive and handle a lot better >30km/h

OEM wheels are usually below average at best and absolute crap at worst.

It _can_ be a meme if you're a slow rich faggot and have Racing Quattros and "upgrade" to Zipp 202s or whatever.

I think you'll notice an appreciable difference and be happier with your bike overall.

Is it typical to have a preferred cadence of around 90 by default for somebody with basically zero condition(skinny fat keyboard warrior)?

I hooked up a cycling computer for the first time and tested it out and was surprised that my preferred cadence is already pretty high.
Thought it was going to be something I'd have to train for.

In the grand scheme of things, for regular cyclists who ride frequently (not pros or hardcores though)

How "big' of a deal is a 30 mile ride?

>>1060111
not a big deal

>>1060111
Not a big deal at all to be honest. It feels big initially, but when you ride regularly you can keep expanding your limits and find that 30 miles is just a nice short spin out but nothing special

>>1060111
30 mile is literally just a warm up unless you're trying to do at least 20 mph average.

Unless you're in a peloton, then 20mph is still a warmup.

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>>1059946
gee thanks a lot, I would've never thought about that myself.

>>1060111
It depends if you live in a flat country and ride on asphalt.

You should rather measure time and not miles.

>>1059972
>nice in Summer
Why would you need an insulated bottle in summer?
My water once froze in winter and then I thought having an insulated bottle would be cool, but that's it.

>>1058563
How often do people in their cars try to pick fights with bicyclists? I want to bike more as a form of recreation and exercise, but I'm a bit concerned some lardass is going to try to run me over on purpose.

>>1060128
So you can fill it with cold water and not have it heat up as much?

>>1060129
It's extremely uncommon - fights and confrontations rarely ever start unless both people involved are willing to spout off and give vent to their momentary anger instead of staying calm and being reasonable. If somebody is rude to you, it's entirely up to you how you'll respond - you can start a fight, or you can ignore the slight and go on about your business and no harm will come to anyone.

Note that this applies to all areas of life, not just to cycling.

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I had to open up my brakes because I had a wobbly wheel and it locked up the brakes as I was walking it to the bike shop.

I unscrewed 1 first, then made 2 loose. Now I've tried readjusting it watching youtube videos. I've managed to set them back up I think, the play in the lever is nice, and it brakes good. But there's one problem - after braking the brake pads don't fully return to their previous position, they slip on the rim after releasing the brake instead of returning to the original position.

Is there a problem with my adjustment, or do I need a new brake cable? After braking and releasing the brakes, I also see the brake hanging loose on the frame. It's the rear brake

>>1060136
I've noticed it, I'm way more calm (and passive) than most and almost never have problems with others.

Yet some people always seem to get into fights.

>>1060129
I think it's very much a "reap what you sow" kind of thing. I've ridden many commutes, and never been in a fight. But I'm a cautious, defensive, cyclist.
When a cager cuts me off or whatever I try not to let it get to me. I'm sure the people getting into fights with cars are the kind of people who think they own the road, or the rules don't apply to them. When that rubs a cager the wrong way, is when trouble's a brewin

>>1060141
You've probably done the pivot bolt (2) up too tight. You don't need to undo that to release the brake, just undo number 1. You can also add more spring tension by tightening the screw above number 2.

>>1060154
That did it. I thought the pivolt bolt was meant to be all tightened up, but now that I've loosened it a bit it works perfectly. Thanks very much

>>1060143
>some people always seem to get into fights
some people enjoy them though

What maintenance on an old racer with downtube campologno shifters can I do myself, without the need of any special tools like a torque-wrench?

I'm guessing
>change cables/wires
>clean and stuff up
>replace brake pads
>change tyres/tubes/wheels
Anything else?

>>1058563
Whats the best bike shop in chicago?

Can I change from downtube shifters to brifters without having to change the entire drive set?

if eminem was a bike what bike would he be

>>1060126
the 30 miles is a city commute full of turns and entirely asphalt

I wont even say how long the first trip was but I expect it to be at least 1 hour less when I do it again this week (just started riding)

>>1060198
I can't really explain it but my gut instinct would be a BMX. Snoop would obviously be one of those lowrider style bike.

>>1058563
I seem to have inherited 2 old 10 speeds from my late grandfather, a Schwinn Le Tour (1970s? and a Schwinn Traveler that looks like a mid-80s bike.) I only wanted one, but it seems likely I'll end up with both since my uncle, brother, dad and cousin don't want them since they're not interested in road bikes. I think the Traveler is a chromoly frame with downtube shifters and plastic pedals. The Le Tour has stem shifters, metal pedals, and those double brake levers with brake hoods and front levers parallel to the bars. I'll post pictures tomorrow if I go over to see them. Which bike is better? I probably don't need two bikes. My cousin is around 14 years old. He's tall enough for a road bike, but most kids his age aren't into them nowadays.

>>1060076
thx for replying. so a swap between 1950g and 1500-1600g would mean a big difference in terms of responsiveness? Are wheelsets like fulcrum racing3/campagnolo zonda also tough enough for the "i wanna bike as long as its a road" type of biker?

>>1060236
based solely on what youve told us, the Le Tour is better

>>1060236
'80s Travelers have a chrome-moly main triangle, alloy rims, etc. Definitely a nicer spec than the Le Tour

I'm going to ride without a helmet.

But I rode slow and never go downhill fast.

>>1060248
>>1060245
Just from reading the labels it seems the Le Tour is probably not chromoly. I think the Traveler is. But the Le Tour does have nicer shifters, pedals, and brakes. They're still in the garage though so I haven't taken them for a spin yet. The Traveler looks like pic related, but without the water bottle rack. A lot of Google search results turn up fixies made from this bike. I would like to ride it as is.

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>>1060283
Forgot pic

>>1060283
The traveler is better and actually a nice bike. The things you like about the le tour are signs of a low quality bike to people who are into bikes. The dual position brake levers are junk and so are the stem shifters. A novice will prefer the idea of braking from the flats and shifting from the cockpit, but in the case of the two bikes you are considering, those things come at the cost of component quality. You will get used to riding on the hoods and drops and shifting from the down tube. The the traveler.

going to lbs free basic maintenance class. anything i should special pay attention to?

>>1060134
Cold water is bad for sports

>>1060350
Brake maintenance. Pay close attention when they explain how to properly adjust brake pads so they brake evenly on both sides with no play and don't skid.
Then tell me cause I never get that shit right.

Who is the current #1 cyclist?

Is it the Tour de France winner or somebody who can actually win more events than a group effort?

>>1060345
Okay. Thanks. If anyone else wants the bike I will give them the Le Tour since it would be more comfortable for novice riders anyway. I did get used to downtube shifters, because there is a World Sport in my basement with a badly trued wheel. I guess if I don't like the pedals I can get the metal BMX-style ones (My World Sport has toe clip pedals and my commuter bike is a MTB).

If they go over hub maintenance, pay attention. I STILL have trouble with cup and cone.

>>1060129
Usually is just the cager lowering the window and yelling at you. If they are lazy they just honk and you can see they still rage inside their cage. Unless you find a crazy guy, nobody will try to harm you unless you are a dick, never stop to argue with a cager unless you wanna beat him because he almost killed you.

Do bike computers with a wheel sensor work on strava?

>>1060431
>never stop to argue with a cager
this is good advice
the only time i've actually gotten into a fight with one was after i threw my cup of coffee into the passenger window as i passed him

>>1060431
>because he almost killed you
Can't stress this enough. Every other time after getting honked at, cut off, screamed at i point to roll down the window for polite and legible explanation I either get some more gibberish screaming or the driver trying to run me over, force me off the road or using other "humane" method of communicating his problem.

If he acts inadequate, you can expect only even more inadequacy when they are confronted. Just get away from them fast and forget about them. Alternatively, if you feel they might be serious threat (DUI, actually running into you), call the police.

>>1060243
The responsiveness factor is affected a lot more by wheel stiffness than wheel weight of the wheel itself. The handling characteristics of the wheel are also mostly influenced by rim shape and depth.

You could have light wheels that have shit aerodynamic characteristics and are as stiff as noodles, although you'd be hard pressed to find wheels like that.

But to answer your question:

>a swap between 1950g and 1500-1600g would mean a big difference in terms of responsiveness?

Definitely! Although the reduction in weight is only part of the equation.

>Are wheelsets like fulcrum racing3/campagnolo zonda also tough enough for the "i wanna bike as long as its a road" type of biker?

They certainly are. People do CX races on those wheels and they hold up fine. Some of it is pretty hardcore, look it up on YouTube. If you go too hard on the all-road adventures you might have pinch flats very frequently however. Bad roads are fine though.

Also I didn't note on my previous post, but if you still have the factory wheels, there's a chance you still have the factory tires. These are almost always universally shit, too. Getting a good pair of tires will also contribute a lot for better riding/handling. I'm a Schwalbe fanboy, I think you'll like the Ones or the Duranos.

I have a new bike with a Sunrace CS8 8-speed cassette which is making a noise. Upon closer inspection I discovered that appart from a minimal wobble 6th and 7th gear sprockets are slightly bent allowing the chain to rub on the neighbor sprockets. Since it's a new bike I haven't been pushing it hard like my old one and rarely cross chain gears. Can i claim warranty or am I gonna have to dish out for a new cassette?

>>1059880
Anyone know if this will be OK for me?

>>1060048
Why are you arguing with him? The rest of us saw your post and laughed because you clearly don't know enough about bikes to understand why it is such piece of shit. He is the only one who took the time to reply, and he's telling you the truth.

All the parts of the bike are crap. You should be able to find a much better bike for not much more money, or at least a bike more worth the time and money to upgrade it.

>>1060184
service headset bearings, buy a new bb, add shiny new bar tape.

>>1060645
I don't see why you are all being so aggressive to him. It's a fucking 5 dollar bike. Just keep up with basic maintenance without going nuts. I had a department store bike that was 16 years old and still plugging away when I got my current bike. Replace tires, tubes, brake pads, and chain if necessary, but that's it. The department store bikes to watch for are those horrid dual suspension ones.

>>1060653
>>1060645
>>1060048
Also my experience with Kent bikes isn't too bad. I've had a few and they are clearly cheap bikes but have had no major problems. It does appear to be an aluminum frame, so it's probably not too heavy compared to other Wal-mart bikes. The main problem is probably going to be the cranks, derailleur, etc. I don't really think those are going to be worth upgrading/replacing if/when they break. If you're like me and have lots of spare parts lying around, go for it, but don't spend serious money.

>>1060642
If you are 6'0", a 54 cm frame is def. too small for you. 57/58 would be as small as you want to go

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>>1060653
>Replace tires, tubes, brake pads, and chain if necessary

Mostly just this. If you buy fancy pants Maxxis High Roller tires for your "Glendale" and your bike snaps in half shortly after an extreme adrenaline pumping downhill adventure, it's not really wasted money if you can find another 26" bike.

The only Wal-Mart bikes that are downright dangerous are ones like pic related. The dual suspension designs on most of these bikes are very unreliable and there have been many CPSC recalls over the years (especially NEXT/Dynacraft)

>>1060685
Full rigid ghetto bikes are awesome, they are useful for commuting and you won't lose too much if they are stolen. This summer I saw half of a bike on a trash dum, I went there kinda happy to see if I could get a beater bike, ig got there and saw the other half, it was like that pic, so I turned pretty sad, that bikes are only good for hobos.

>>1060688
>Full rigid ghetto bikes are awesome
Yeah, they sell less and less of them and the only fully rigid ones you see are usually the really heavy steel ones (Huffy, etc.). But with the dual suspension ones there is a serious risk of frame failure. I don't know if the suspension forks are trustworthy on the hardtail bikes either.

>>1060443
>tfw live in a spread out midwest city so i cant do shit like this because there's no way to evade a cager on the roads

>>1060283
oh, my bad, i didnt read the whole post. I cant stand those double brake lever setups on old road bikes. Even when you take them off youve still got that bolt protruding and they just look messy even when theyre all together. disregard what i said earlier and go with the traveler for sure, lol.

>>1060492
Yep, got some Giant P-SL1 tires on it. I'll drive them another 1000km, then they're ready for neverland. Probably Conti GP4000SII.
Is temporary scrubbing on the front-wheel while going full-beans an indicator for insufficient stiffness?

>>1060653
>>1060675
>>1060685

Thanks for the help. As I said from the start, I don't really know much about bikes and wanted to get into cycling, and didn't really get what's so bad about this one.

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My stupid fucking aluminum headtube cracked. I just noticed this today when I got to school, is there any way to fix this or is it just fucked?

>>1060832
You can get it welded, but along with remachining the inside of the headtube it won't be cheap. I've also seen people do a ghetto fix by putting a hose clamp around the head tube but it doesn't look like you'll have enough space with the top tube being in the way.

>>1060832
>>1060835
I concur with the previous anon - yes, it could be welded back together, but in addition to needing the headset cups needing to be reamed and faced again (not a big deal), I wonder if the entire frame would need to be tempered/heat treated again (a big deal) or else the headtube would be vulnerable to a second failure? I'd consult someone who has experience welding aluminum who can tell you what to expect with that particular alloy.

>>1060839
It's not a hard use bike/frame so it would likely be fine, the crack was probably originally caused by a defect (for example a nick causing a stress concentration and then a too large cup being forced into a perhaps undersized headtube).

>>1060832
shoulda bought a carbon bike

>>1060839
>>1060835
Thanks for the responses, is that a fix I could get done at a shop or would I need to take it to a machinery/welding place? I honestly don't know shit from shinola about metal working and I'm worried I'll be a huge mark for some jew. I've been looking at second hand steel frames and am considering getting one instead.

>>1060848
Yeah you'll need to take it to a machine shop, not a bike shop.

>>1060848
>steel frames
if you find something with similar geo and the same headtube and bottom bracket size, that might not be a bad idea, as fixing your frame is gonna be expensive
especially if the kind of riding you're doing is rough enough to crack alu
look into black mountain cycles and some of the other modern chromoly frame makers, some of them have really good stuff for cheap

Are there any bike helmets made with a 3-snap visor connection, like those on motorcycle helmets? I want to get a UV face shield but the only ones I can find for bike helmets aren't released yet. The only alternative I can find is a non-helmet Chinese style of face shield.

Would a scooter helmet be fine for wearing on a bike, or are they like motorcycle or motocross helmets and unsafe for the lower speeds of a bike accident?

>>1061239
Why not just wear sunglasses?

>>1061242
I want my whole face protected, not just my eyes.

>>1061244
Why? If you're a ginger or something like that just wear sunscreen.

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>>1061245

>Saves money on sunscreen + makes sure I always have working face sun protection on me at all times
>Cuts windchill, bugs, debris, rain
>Looks cool

>>1061246
>except it really doesnt look cool

>>1061266
I like the spaceman look

>>1061239
http://www.giro.com/us_en/products/men/helmets/air-attack-shield.html

>Would a scooter helmet be fine for wearing on a bike, or are they like motorcycle or motocross helmets and unsafe for the lower speeds of a bike accident?
Motorcycle helmets are of a construction that requires more force to compress, so they provide more protection in high-force impacts and less protection in low-force impacts compared to bicycle helmets. I assume scooter helmets fall somewhere in between, so in a low-energy impact (i.e. hit a pothile at 12mph, fall over, lightly hit helmet) a bike helmet would be better, but in a high speed impact (riding downhill at 30mph, get hit by a cager, fly headfirst into road at high speed) I would assume a scooter helmet would provide more protection than a bike helmet.
So it really comes down to, do you want optimal protection in most crashes, or will you sacrifice that to have more adequate protection in the most high speed crashes?

>>1060499
If the bike is very new and you can take it back to the shop you bought it from, there's a chance of warranty replacement. No one can really say but the warranty people (even the shop you bought it from will probably say "we'll check with warranty people and get back to you")
>>1060435
To connect to Strava no, but Strava does allow you to manually input ride stats. It just won't be counted towards KOMs etc.
>>1060421
Lance Armstrong
jk fuck that druggie
Probably the RAAM and Tour Divide winners
>>1060278
This is Bike Questions General, not Tell Everyone That I'm An Idiot General
>>1060190
If your frame doesn't have cable stops you'll need full length housing and zip ties or some other way to secure the housing to the frame. You should definitely be able to use the same chainrings/crakset, cassette/freewheel, and chain. I assume you could use the same derailleurs as well, only issue would be if they have a different pull ratio.
>>1060184
Tighten bearings when necessary, clean/lube chain, adjust brakes and derailleurs, replace chain when needed (requires chain breaker)
>change cables/wires
For cables/housing you should have a bicycle specific cable cutter, does better to not fray cables etc compared to a standard cable cutter.
>>1060141
>slip on the rim
You mean the brake stays engaged and the pads stay contacting the rim? This can be a number of things. Sometimes if the brake pads are not positioned properly (i.e. if they're too high getting caught on the tire) they'll get stuck against the wheel/tire. Sometimes it's because the cable/housing need to be replaced. Or you may have bolt 2 (in your picture) too tight, I'm not positive but if you have that too tight it may prevent the brake arms from moving freely.

>>1060111
Not a big deal at all. Like, if you're really new to cycling your first 30 mile ride might feel cool. But within a few months you can easily be doing 60-70+ if your goal is to do longer rides.
>>1059959
http://www.cafepress.com/forevershinkansen.1785538294
>>1059883
Topeak Turbo Morph or Topeak Road Morph (if riding with a pack or panniers)
Something by Lezyne if you want something small and compact (i.e. on your GOTTA GO FAST carbon race bike)

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is this shit worth 180 dollars? (or 590 reais in brazil)

>>1061327
I would pay $25US max for that thing

>>1061333
wew, this is the cheapest i could find here that dont need serious repairs. the average price for a new one is 700$ + and a used one is around 400$...

>>1061333
>I don't know anything about the local market or this bike but let me broadcast my elitist preferences and my disdain for the plebs who don't share them
>>>bikeforums.net

>>1058563
GO TO FUCKING HELL YOU STUPID FUCKING FAGGOT CUNT MORON
THERE IS ALREADY AN ACTIVE BQG THREAD THAT WAS POSTED FOUR DAYS BEFORE YOURS
AND YOU DIDN'T EVEN POST THE FUCKING RESOURCES LINKS OR LINK THE PREVIOUS THREAD
GO GET HIT BY A CAGER YOU STUPID FUCKTARD

>>1059908
>I also planned on sanding it down a little and giving it a new paint job depending on whether or not it's a keeper or not
Not worth it. Give the bike away. To a kid. That's all the bike has any use for.
>I've been wanting to get into cycling and start taking advantage of my bike friendly surroundings and public transportation, and figured this could be a start. Thanks!
Post in >>>/n/bbg for specific suggestions. Get a 90s rigid mountain bike and put semislicks on it, or get an old (70s/80s/90s) 10 speed road bike. Either one can be had for $100-$200 (plus the costs of replacing parts and making adjustments)

>>1061338

Do you have eyes?

>>1061333

Generous man.

>>1061335

No, it is not worth any amount of money. Nothing on the bike is worth a dime. What is there will need to be replaced before it is rideable for distances of more than a couple miles. So even as a free bicycle, it would be worth around negative two hundred dollars.

If you REALLY REALLY need a bicycle RIGHT NOW then maybe the utility is worth that much to you, but I seriously doubt it.

riding off curbs and shit on a hybrid bike (no shocks) can damage it?

>>1061396

Yes. Definitely.
Speaking from long experience;

You risk pinch flats, knocking your rims out of true, fucking up your bearings, and even fucking up your chainstays if it's a cheap frame. Time scale just depends on how much you ride and how hard.

All hybrids are by definition cheap garbage. Expect failure with cost of repair equaling cost to replace within two years.

>>1061399
>All hybrids are by definition cheap garbage.
False.

>>1061396
Unless you're incredibly fat, the bike is incredibly shit, and by "and shit" you mean stuff like 1ft drops the bike will be fine.

>>1061402

Wrong.

>>1061399
>knocking your rims out of true, fucking up your bearings, and even fucking up your chainstays

what are the symptoms of these?

>>1061404
"Hybrid" is a very general term applied to many different types of bikes of varying quality. Even the worst types of "hybrid" bikes that you are alluding to can be of decent enough quality that they'll have no problems rolling down a curb.

>>1061407

No problems rolling down one curb.
A hundred? No problem. Five thousand curbs? Probably going to fail.

Again, it's a use-case thing. If you ride your shitty hybrid like a cyclist, it's going to fall apart 100% of the time. If you ride your shitty hybrid like a normie, it's going to fall apart 0% of the time.

>>1061408
Again, you're making the assumption that it's the absolute shittiest of hybrids.

>>1061406
>what are the symptoms of these?

lost energy
premature tire and drivetrain wear
tire, wheel, and frame failure.

early symptoms to include frequent flats, wobbly or ovoid "bumpy" wheels.

Just flip your bike upside down and spin the wheels. Do not leave your fingers near the chain or rings. Eyeball the brake calipers. Visible changes in the relationship between the rim and the calipers are a problem. Visible changes in the relationship between the cogs or chainrings and the frame are a problem.

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>>1061410

Only kind there is.
If you believe or suggest otherwise, you are wrong.

>>1061414
hybrid works for me. guess im just retarded.

>>1061414
No, you're wrong, and you deserve to be hit by a cager, you stupid fucking fucktard. Go fuck yourself and get raped by a nigger. I hope ISIS nukes your house, fuckshit.

>>1061396
It can. If the hybrid is essentially a rigid mountain bike, most importantly the wheelset, it should be OK. Proper riding technique, and keeping your rims in true reduce the chance of damage.

Being a fatass, plowing everything, having narrow wheels, improper inflation, and having a super cheap or super expensive hybrid increase the chance of damage.

>>1061402
The more expensive hybrids, derived from full road bikes are MORE likely to fail if you ride them offroad.

>>1061406
Learn how to check your rims for true. They're generally the first point of failure.

Vid somewhat related.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZmJtYaUTa0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ee54EP-nho4

>>1059258
>>1059287

Dank sativas really make one focus I have noticed. Still racing on weed is a bit risky.

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Planinng to buy (pic related) bike. Any thoughts and comments are velcome.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/men/bikes/fitness/fitness/crosstrail-disc/126335
Intedent use wolud be city riding..

>>1061441
No. Hybrids with suspension forks are shit. If you want something like that, get a Sirrus instead. You only need/want suspension if you're mountain biking, and in that case you should be getting a mountain bike.

Friend spotted my tyres and said they were too cracked and perished. Recommended I pick up some Schwalbe tyres online and look for a half price deal.

I cycle on roads 60% of the time and a cut trail 40% of the time. What features should I be looking for? 700c hybrid

1. What's a good price for a good quality steel frame, 2nd hand?

2. How recent of era should I be looking for in steel frames in order for a current Shimano 105 groupset to fit in terms of OLD?

>>1061422
>The more expensive hybrids, derived from full road bikes are MORE likely to fail if you ride them offroad.
We're not talking about trail riding here, the guy wants to be able to drop curbs (and other "shit" but he hasn't clarified what that is). Road bikes, drop bar or flat bar, can handle riding off curbs with no problem. They can even handle light off road use as long as you don't smash them into roots and ruts and jump them too hard.

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I'm a filthy casual and know nothing about bikes. I just like riding to the shop now and then, or riding to work (10 minutes tops). However I live in a place with these evil things and will get a flat EVERY TIME I go out. What options do I have other than not riding my bike? Tires say 700x35c on them.

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can you tell if this is bike has a 1 1/8 inch steerer ?

it looks like a quill stem but it also looks quite chunky.
I'll take a look at it tomorrow and I'll be taking my calipers with me.
messuring the bottom of the stem , I should be able to figure out if it's 1" or 1 1/8" right ?

also,
is there a cheap alternative to the pizza rack ?
something ith a mid sized platform ?

>>1061511

maybe going ghetto tubeless could help.

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>>1061511
You could consider this.

>>1061514
Judging by the diameter of the headtube I would say it's 1 inch with either a chunky stem or it's using an adapter to mount a 1 1/8 threadless stem. It's quite easy to tell the two types apart by looking at it in person, a 1 inch threaded system will have one bolt on the stem (to tighten the quill, no pinch bolts) and have two nuts under the stem to tighten the headset down.

>>1061423
>racing on weed is a bit risky
a little, but sometimes its worth it because fuck its fun
also, try taking some LSA extracted from hbwr seeds and ride
ignore dumb fucks saying LSA is shit
use a proper polar/non-polar extraction tek and its amazing

>>1061477
>too cracked and perished
fuck that noise, if the sidewalls aren't bulging and the tubes haven't blown they're fine

>>1061522

thanks for the input !

>>1061524

I've been riding on a small dose of molly and it was terrific.
you really need to stay hydrated though and full on racing might not be the best idea

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>>1061511
Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB tires.
If they don't help, you need WW1 tires. Pic related.

>>1061530
>stay hydrated though and full on racing might not be the best idea
for sure my man, i would freak the fuck out riding even in a small group while tripping
i haven't tried riding while rolling though, that sounds epic

>>1061516
>>1061517
>>1061534
Thanks for the advise. I'll look into these options.

Also kek at the tire of springs.

>>1061542
Also, get tubes with removable valve cores and funnel some sealant into them before installation

My commute is an 18 mile stretch of mostly flat road. Which bike is most durable, most comfortable, most efficient bike for under 500 dollars?

>>1060832
shoulda got a steel cross bike brah

>>1060941
Evo has Traitor frames on sale right now

>>1061273
>riding downhill at 30mph, get hit by a cager, fly headfirst into road at high speed
jump the cager ya fucken joey

>>1061551
the first rigid 90s mtb you find on your local craigslist

>>1061556
>mostly flat road
>mountain bike

>>1061557
>90s rigid with semi-slicks
>mtb
choose 1 and only 1

>>1061555
>Evo has Traitor frames on sale right now
damn, its like $200 off, that's a pretty good deal

>>1061551
90s rigid mtb (replace the tires with semislicks)
or
old ten speed road bike
Either way, Craigslist. The former is preferable if you ride on rough roads, snowy/icy roads, ever want to ride off road, are an out of shape fat fuck, and/or prefer an upright position/comfort over speed/efficiency. The latter is preferable if you will be riding only on smooth pavement and want to go fast. If possible, test ride one of each and see what you like better.
For sizing, refer to https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer
>>1061557
>>1061560
Tires can be swapped out you stupid fucks.
90S
RIGID
MTB
WITH
SEMISLICKS

Is it true that tires with tread are just a placebo marketing meme, and that 100% slick tires have just as much, if not possibly more traction?

>>1061592
Treads are good on loose surface, slicks are good on solid.

>>1061592
I don't know anon, maybe you should go try riding a double black diamond downhill trail on slicks. I'm sure you'll find out quickly!

But in case you're actually an idiot asking this question legitimately: Depends on the surface. The point is to maximize contact area. On dirt, knobbies have more traction because the knobs dig into the dirt and provide more surface area contact. Whereas on pavement, knobbies will slide out because they can't dig into the pavement, so slicks provide more contact area and better grip. At least that's my assumption/understanding.

How long should you be able to do with wheels before they become untrue? My shimano wheelset regularly becomes untrue and I'm tired of it. Thinking of an upgrade/replacement

>don't need to be light/fast, most important is sturdy and durable
>need to support a heavy rider (me at 85kg)
>the cheaper the better

>>1061599
about 3000 miles

>>1061592
The answer is yes. I think you are referring to tread patterns on slick tires and not the tread patterns on knobby and cross tires. For grip on dry roads, wet roads, gravel roads and dirt roads, you want to run the widest, slickest, supplest tires you can and adjust psi for road surface. Tread is often thought to be grippy or necessary for wet roads to not hydroplane. The anon(s) who keep schilling semi slicks are retards.

how do you guys clean your cassette and drivechain? I'm a commuter and my bike is dirty from the snow season. I was considering a pressure washer then drying everything 100% with a air compressor.

>>1061626
For best cleaning, I take the components off the bike and clean them individually. On the bike, you can clean your cassette with a sturdy bristled broom or brush that you don't mind becoming black. Chain with a rag. Derailleur jockey wheels with a point object. In all cases, spin the drive train backwards while holding the cleaning utensil lightly against the component. Lightly apply solvents and lubes as needed.

High pressure water does not belong near your bike. If you remove the cassette first and then pressure was it, ill allow that, but that's the only drive train component you might pressure wash.

>>1061592
>>1061620
it's not quite that simple though. there are some tires with very grippy compound that happen to have a slight tread pattern, that will grip better than the slickest tires with a less grippy compound. if all tires were made from the exact same stuff, then yeah, 100% slick gives better traction under normal conditions, but the reality is pretty much everyone's rubber is a bit different, with tradeoffs for ride suppleness, puncture resistance, tire longevity, etc. so just running out and buying the smoothest looking tire you can find isn't a guarantee of good grip. some very grippy tires have patterns on them.

>>1061620
The point of semislicks is to be able to have good traction on gravel/dirt/grass while still riding primarily on pavement, you stupid fuck.

>>1061626
>pressure washer
lolno
Degreaser (Dumonde citrus solvent is awesome; but it spells like juice/candy so keep away from kids/pets) with a rag and old toothbrush.
DO NOT SOAK YOUR CHAIN. That will eat away the internal factory grease, after market lube does not penetrate deep enough to make up for that. Wet a rag with degreaser then use it to wipe down/scrub the chain, then take a dry rag to wipe off the degreaser. Then apply lube, let the lube sit for 10 minutes to sink in, then take a clean dry rag and wipe off the remaining lube (lube is supposed to penetrate the links; outside of the chain should be dry; lube on the outside of the chain has no benefit and just attracts dirt and makes the chain wear faster).

Are there any good bikes for less than 200 bucks? Does critical cycles make good stuff?

I hate my road bike and want a more casual bike.

>>1061682

No and no.

>>1061682
sometimes you can find a deal on c list

>>1061682
Yes, but only used. >>>/n/bbg
New, anything under $500 is pure shit (and even most $500 bikes are pure shit, but a few are decent)

>>1061670
> better traction on grass dirt gravel
If that were the point of tread, then it would be a misguided one as tread does not provide better traction on gravel, does not provide better traction on hard dirt, and probably wouldn't provide better traction on grass that has hardish soil beneath it.

Tread is on tires because totally slick tries do not sell well. Consumers like gimmicks so they are given them.

Little research is done regarding what characteristics actually provide the most grip and power output on roads and paths (tar, gravel, dirt, cobbles, etc) because it is hard to test single variables. The research that has been done is revealing the characteristics of a grippy fast tire on firmer surfaces are no tread, supple case, light weight and wide as possible.

Every time I see you autists write "90s rigid mtb with SEMI slicks" I cringe. Please stop.

Most slicks available atm have tread but it is a marketing gimmick. Deal with it

>>1061711
If that were the point of tread, then it would be a misguided one as tread does not provide better traction on gravel, does not provide better traction on hard dirt, and probably wouldn't provide better traction on grass that has hardish soil beneath it.
yes it does
>wide as possible.
Then why aren't you riding fatty slicks? 26x4.5" slicks exist. Unless you are riding those fuck off with your "fatter is faster" faggot shit you stupid fucking fatbike hipster fuck.
>Most slicks available atm have tread
Those are semislicks not slicks you fuck
Unless you mean the ones with very subtle pattern in which case it's for aerodynamics not tread (inb4 you don't believe me,look it up if you don't believe me you stupid fuck)

>>1061715
Width is among the relevant variables in tire grip and power output, it is not the only one. A 4.5" tire is heavy and requires a sturdier casing than a normal size tire. Both of those factors matter and are worsened. I thought this logical conclusion was obvious, but you appear to need things spelled out for you.

In regards to terminology, slick means a tire designed for road use, especially in the 26" size that is predominantly equipped for off-road use. Marathon plus tires are slicks. Slick means no aggressive knobs to noobs and vets alike. Semi slick is just bring overly precise. There are almost no true slicks in the 26" size.

The tread, does not increase power output or cornering confidence on hard dirt, gravel or pavement. Lowering your psi and enlarging your contact patch does. So run wide tires at the appropriate pressure for the road surface

>>1061721
>Marathon plus tires are slicks
No they aren't you actual stupid fuck. Kill yourself.
>Slick means no aggressive knobs to noobs and vets alike.
No it fucking doesn't, it means no tread pattern
>There are almost no true slicks in the 26" size.
That's fucking irrelevant
>lower psi
Okay go ride your 26x2.7" slicks at 12psi then, enjoy the pinch flats fag

>>1061672
>internal factory grease
lol, the weird superstitious shit some people believe

by the time you're 1000 miles in of salt and slush, it doesn't fucking matter. any kind of "internal factory grease" (is that different from the external factory grease? is it roller grease or pin grease?) is in sorry shape. I mean by that logic why clean your chain at all? it might contaminate the "internal" grease with your non-internal lube.

>>1061722
the other guy is right. enjoy your fixiefag thickslicks that get all slashed up just from riding on city streets for a week, while the rest of us are riding on grownup tires from conti, schwalbe, etc, with the tread pattern (ur not my real dad!)
>but all those cut marks mean it's flat-resistant!
no it just means it's a horribly designed tire

>not using compass 26"s set up tubeless which each cost more than your 90s rigid mtb

plebs

>>1061739
You quoted the wrong person, right?

>>1061738
Are you fucking stupid? The point of lube is to be inside the chain links. The pins go through the rollers so it's fucking obviously inside rollers around pins. And yes internal as opposed to external, those are indeed opposites, congratulations on knowing English. The chain parts are greased in the factory before the chain is assembled, putting lube on after won't sink in that deep. You should clean your chain with a rag and degreaser because that won't get so deep in to eat it away but if you soak it, it will.
Fuck. Why do I have to explain this shit?

So is getting big legs from cycling just a meme?
My hips are already wide as fuck compared to my upper body and I'm trying to get my bf% down

>>1061748
Ride harder
Ride more
faggot

>>1061742
>bragging about how expensive your stuff is
Fred.

>>1061749
I absolutely will after you answer my question, senpai

>>1061751
it's not about how expensive it is, it's the juxtaposition.

I don't even have a 90s rigid mtb, but the whole argument is kind of asinine.

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Can anyone tell what kind of bottom bracket this crankset is attached to based on this pic?

>>1061746
nope
>>1061747
you don't seem to realize lube has carrier solvents and your precious "internal" (sic) lube is getting contaminated anyway. chains are not hermetically sealed, where do people get these stupid ideas?

>>1061769
Most likely square taper, but remove that nut to make sure

>>1061522
1 1/8 threaded system exists too

Is there a go to beginner bike for commuting?

>>1061769
Square Taper.

>>1061787
rigid mtb with slicks

>>1061796
>slicks
no, SEMI slicks
also a rack and fenders

Can I put 650b(27.5x2.00) on a trek 7000 rigid hybrid? It's got 700c on it now I think?.

>>1061804
>SEMI slicks
Worst of both worlds

>>1061808
Diameter wise it will fit, however what could cause an issue is clearance for the width. My bike can take up to 700x40 iirc, however it won't even fit 26x2.00.

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>>1061769
Most likely square tapper.

Judging from locknut an axle and cup type (pic. related). Less likely, but sealed bearing variants with such locknut do exist.

>>1061787
Rigid 90s mtb with semislicks and a rack
>>1061813
But that's wrong you fucking retard. A good commuter should be able to be ridden confidently on pavement, dirt, grass, gravel, snow, ice, and slush. SEMISLICKS.

>>1061771
>nope
>telling me to enjoy 'fixiefag thickslicks' and implying that semislicks are better
>as if to disagree with me
>when I argued that semislicks are better than slicks and that fat slicks are fucking retarded
You have to be the most incompetent and illiterate person on /n/. Probably on all of 4chan. Go and fucking kill yourself in real life you stupid fuck.

>>1061771
>you don't seem to realize lube has carrier solvents
Obviously hence why I said it has to sit for 10 minutes before being wiped. Gives the lube time to sink in and gives the carrier solvent time to evaporate.
>lube getting contaminated
I didn't advise against soaking it to avoid contaminating it, I advised against soaking it to avoid getting rid of all the grease you fucking moron.
>chains are not hermetically sealed
That doesn't change the fact that lube won't penetrate as deeply when dripped on after the chain has been assembled.

>>1061851
>A good commuter should be able to be ridden confidently on pavement, dirt, grass, gravel, snow, ice, and slush. SEMISLICKS.

>ice
so you're riding studded tyres all year round?

Hey guys looking to buy a used bike to get around the city and just want to make sure I'm not doing anything stupid. How do these look?

https://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/bik/6072422839.html
https://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/bik/6063086036.html
https://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/bik/6078463443.html
https://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/bik/6069323659.html

Anything I should check for aside from a good fit when I see them?

>>1061880
>so you're riding studded tyres all year round?
>implying i live somewhere where temperatures ever go below freezing
>implying not Texas masterrace
lame

>>1061892
So you don't ride on ice, thus you have no need for studded tyres. For the majority of people a commuter bike will be used primarily and likely only on roads, thus slicks are most commonly going to be the best choice.

>>1061890
>https://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/bik/6072422839.html
>kinda generic OTS, kinda worn drivetrain, some spot rust
will probably ride fine, but nothing special
>$175
overpriced for what it is

>https://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/bik/6063086036.html
>dectnt looking OTS, not too much drivetrain wear
not too bad, probably rides ok, but i bet its heavy
>turkey wings
fuck that noise
>$195
no

>https://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/bik/6078463443.html
>shitty pictures
assume everything on it is fucked

>https://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/bik/6069323659.html
>schwinn 4 speed cruiser, suspnsion saddle, 4 speed
heavy as all fuck, will ride slow as fuck, looks beat to fuck
they are kinda cool if you restore them, but that one's not worth
>$150
nah

>a good fit
all the bikes you posted are different sizes, some by quite a bit
the 3rd bike is 58cm which is ideal for around 5'11"-6'2"
the first two are around 50cm, which is more for 5'4"-5'8"
buy whichever one fits you best
they're all overpriced for what they are though, but that's probably just cause your in jew york

>>1061880
>being such a shit-tier cyclist that you need studs to ride ice
k

>>1061890
>frames ranging 50cm to 58cm (and a medium whatever the fuck that is)
You have no idea what you're doing, do you? Go here, calculate your size: https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer
Then look for bikes that are your size.
And by the way, the "Schwinn 1969 4Speed" is a piece of shit.

>>1061896
What price would you expect for those?

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>>1061808
>>1061814
I got the 650's on as a trial fit on the trek 7000. They fit no problem in the frame, same as on my 97 Gary fisher. Problem is the brake pads don't have enough adjustment to slide down and contact the wheel. Is there a work around for this?

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>>1061902
Pad removed

>>1061904
I guess in my head I thought 650 and 700 shared the same wheel size, that it was only the tire that was different.

So speaking of just the wheels, 26<650<700?

>>1061902
>>1061904
Shit I didn't even think of that, my 700c bike has disc brakes so that wouldn't have been a problem for me.

It looks like the brake posts are removable, I think you can get adapters that move them down slightly to use smaller rims.

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hi there, i have problem, see webm related.
today i got my first flat on my first road bike (been on mtb's all my life). i was going on a descent and couldnt bunny hop a huge pot. and bam! tube got rekd. thing is when i changed it for a new tube i get that sort of bump you can see on the webm (in real life it seems way worse). thinking as i may have installed the new tob wrong (biten by tire or something) i took it out, inflated it without putting it on the wheel, seemed normal, everything back together and the problem persists, on the same part of the rim.. the rim seems to be undamaged or deformed.. so i clueless..what could it be? maybe the tyre got fucked up by the bump? i have another tube to try out ,but that will be tomorrow, now its sleep time over here... any ideas? thanks!

>>1061902
>Problem is the brake pads don't have enough adjustment to slide down and contact the wheel. Is there a work around for this?
Fixed gear drive train!

>>1061942
"installed the new tob wrong" was supposed to say "installed the new tube incorrectly"

also i havent pumped the thing to real pressure.. just to 50 or 60psi..dont think it will go away with pressure.

also problem is not a "bump" in the tyre..its the opposite, it gows lower than normal in the problematic part.. only tyre. rim is still true.

never had this issue with my mtb's.. and sorry for my english , not my native language, thats why i suck at it, thanks!

>>1061942
Looks to me like the tire dips in one area because the tire bead isn't fully seated. Deflate the tube almost completely so you can make sure the tire bead isn't getting trapped inside the well of the rim at that spot.

>>1061902
Take the brakes off - all they do is slow you down

>>1060190
maybe ? you have to match the pull ratio of the brifters to your derailleur and cassette though, otherwise indexing just isn't going to work - how old is the bike, what brand are the components, what speed, is it currently indexed shifting etc...

>>1061944

Your tire isn't seating properly.
deflate it and put in something between it and the rim to act as a lubricant - dish washing soap or a some talcum powder is good. Put it all the way around the rim, not just at the trouble spot.
Pump it up and it should find it way back - it might take a couple of tries though. Last time i did this i had to put way more air in than usual but was rewarded with a satisfying pop as the bead seated itself.
If using a compressor go slow and check your progress - if the tire is deep on one part of the rim it's likely loose on another. Blowing a tire off a rim is no fun at all.

>>1061945
thonks bro
>>1061955
million thanks, will try that tomorrow cause now in bed, but makes perfect sense... didnt want to go full pressure cause of the same thing..afraid of getting into real trouble. but thanks, good info, :D

>>1061956
The other anons are all right. The tire is not seated correctly. Just pump the tire to full pressure and it will seat. I have changed thousands of road tires and they often need the extra pressure to seat. Just pump till you hear a thunk.

>>1061851
Best bike for committing is actually:
90s rigid mtb with SMALL CORNERING KNOBS AND LIGHT CENTER TREAD SEMI slicks and a rack and a pannier and a bell and front light and rear light and rear reflector and a pump and tire levers and patch kit......

Or you can just say "90s rigid mtb w/slicks" and not sound like a try hard

>>1061898
>everywhere is flat just like where I am!
the dutch really are cancer

>crankset has considerable slack
>ordered a crank tool
>will arrive next week

Do you guys think it's okay if I keep riding my bike until the crank tool arrives or could I be fucking my bike up in doing so?

>>1062018
Where is the slack, between the crankarm and the axle, or in the bottom bracket bearings? In the latter case, you wont fuck up anything apart from the bottom bracket which is dead and needs to be replaced anyway, in the former the crankarm is fubar already anyway. Also, what type of crankset? Square taper?

Hey /n/ need help finding a bike. I want to use it to get around my city here and there and hoping to find something for around 200 but cheaper is better. I think about a 55cm frame would fit me. Thanks for any help.

https://newyork.craigslist.org/search/mnh/bik

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hello there! im the dude that cant put a tire correctly on a road bke.

question: is this acceptable? normal? am i getting anal? or does it need more work? webm related, thanks

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>>1062051
another view

>>1062055
btw tire is at max pressure..its better than the first time i asked but still has some minimal oscillation

>>1062057
i'd keep trying it anon - if it was perfect before you should be able to get it again.
all assuming your rim isn't fucked up somehow of course.
did you use a little (or a lot - i use a lot) of dish soap as lube ? i find it helps.

>>1062051
>>1062055
>>1062057


do you mean its at maximum pressure for the tire or the maximum based on your weight and what you will be riding it at?

either way when you lower the pressure to your weight and are actually riding those tiny hops wont make any real difference.

are you racing and need every single watt you can get?

>>1062055
Anon did you do like we said? Pump till you hear a thunk? The bread looks seated. Beads can seat even further by pushing the tire hard left and right. You can do this with a tire grabbing wrench or just by riding the bike.

You are being obsessive. Many things at out of your control. Like us the tire manufactured perfect? That tire is installed correctly. Like the other anon said, deflate to your riding pressure and go.

I'm in the market for a triple crankset for my AWOL. I'm not going touring with a double again.

What's the bees knees? Do they make ultegra triples? It's almost a requirement it's black otherwise my baiku will looked ugly
My budget is 250-300 freedom moneys

>>1058611
What bars are these?

>>1062089
ok so I've figured my only option more or less is a deore set where I buy separate chainrings

why are all the touring-specific brands only making silver colored stuff :(

>>1062122
Some older generation of 105 is black. Ah, and SRAM stuff.

>>1062089
SRAM
R
A
M

>>1062089
Used Atb cranks, fsa, race face, truvativ, >>1062110
Moustache

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>looking up whether I'll be too heavy for carbon frames
>"i was 148kg when i got it and i'm now down to 137kg"
>mfw

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*Random n00b ramblings warning*

Bikes: Bianchi Advantage hybrid, Diamondback Outlook mountain bike


The Bianchi came with Araya TX-350 (35 width I assume?), 36-hole wheels. The front wheel is ever so slightly bent and I only noticed it when it was on the bike stand.

Can this be bent back in place or do I need to get a new wheel sooner than later? Are the $40-50 Sta Tru brand wheels on Amazon acceptable or do I have to spend much more to get a decent wheel? The cheaper ones are single wall instead of double....but the double is only 65 which I can live with. The stock size tires are 700x38 and I'd really like to run a thinner tire as I find I'm riding 95% pavement. How thin of a tire can I run on my current wheels? There's a set of Bontrager 700x25 tires going to waste in my storage shed but are those too narrow for my wheels?


I just picked up the Diamondback today for $60 and a tube. The stock tires are almost bald and are 26x2.0 . I want something that rolls extremely well yet can handle sand. I have hundreds of miles of dirt roads at my disposal yet will have to ride stretches of pavement to get between them. I see some 26x2.1 cheap tires on nashbar, will that extra .1 inch be a problem or should I just get a 2.0 width tire?

Bought my first pair of riding shorts today, Bontrager Solstice. Really looking forward to breaking some distance records today!

Highly recommended: Cateye Velo 9. No BS, easy to use, it just works.

>>1062197
Is the rim untrue (sight blip) or bent (noticeable large movement)? If untrue, it can very likely be trued. If bent, it can possibly be unbent.

Your rim size I'd probably not 35mm, standard is 19mm and that can technically run 25mm tires, but 28 would be best. Take the current tire off and measure the distance in between the two clincher walls. Add about 10mm for safest tire size. But just so you know, even the pros are running wide tires these days. Just get 38 mm slicks imo.

You can run 2.1 on your mtb. For mixed terrain you well want a solid center track on your tread. You will do ok in sand but may end up waking. Bring a hand pump so you can go low psi off road then re inflate for pavement

>>1062051
>>1062055
Looking at these vids, your rim is out of true more than I personally tolerate on my own bikes... but it's definitely good enough to ride on. It looks to me like the bead is fully seated (at least on the driveside of the tire) - note that as the tire goes around you can see a little rubber moulding strip at a consistent height above the rim, so it's safe to ride. Note that even on a perfectly true rim with a properly installed tire, you might see some apparent wobble on the tire, because the tire manufacturing process tends to produce slight imperfections in the surface of tires, this is normal and doesn't impact handling in any measurable way.

>>1062128
>>1062140
>>1062169
cheers guys. Would mix'n'matching chainrings be a bad idea? As long as chain bolt diameter is the same ofc

Do you wear underwear under padded shorts or do you go commando?
I obviously always wear underwear, but it's not really comfortable.

>>1062236
commando always
that's the whole point
>MoviStar 10300

How is shimano road and MTB compatability?

I want to set up an offroad tourer with 24/36/48 front and a 11-32 back (pref 9/10 speed), using Gevenalle shifters. I'm guessing my only option then is to use a mtb rear derailleur (front doesn't matter I guess since it's friction shifted), but which gevenalle shifters do I get? There's one "dyna-sys mtb" and one for road derailleurs. Looking at some touing bikes, cinelli hobootleg for example, they use road shifters for a mtb rear derailleur.

I'm confused as hell what to use or even where to look at

>>1062247
Indexing step length is compatible, so if you have a 10 speed cassette, derailleur with enough range to shift 10 speeds and a 10 speed shifter, you're good.

>>1062169
>Moustache
I see, but what make?

>>1062247
>shimano road and MTB compatability
There are two things. First, the cable pull ratio, in this regard shimano road and mtb 9sp drivetrain parts can be mixed. Can't tell for sure about the 10sp case. Hence, if these Gevanelle shifters are meant for shimano (not sram or campa) drivetrains, 9sp ones would work with whatever 9sp shimano parts. 10sp ones, umm, you perhaps best get them accordingly to your rear derailleur being road or mtb.
Second, there's the drivetrain capacity - google derailleur teeth capacity cage length.
>24/36/48 front and a 11-32 back
is something a long cage mtb derailleur would manage, perhaps a medium cage or some road one too but I'm not putting my finger on this, look it up yourself.
Also, why this Gevanelle monstrosity, why not regular shimano road brifters?
As I said I know shit about how the 10sp ones are compatible with mtb derailleurs, but everything's sure fine if you go the 9sp way.

>>1062235
mixmatching between what?

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Is there a difference between front/back inner tires?

Pic related, got my first flat and I want to buy and replace it myself.

>>1062282
no, there are different sizes, so read the numbers on your tires and make sure you get the correct ones. If pic related is yours, you probably want something like 26 x 1.5 - 2.5

>>1062285
Yeah thats mine, just noticed the 26x2.10 numbers on the side. Thanks for the tips senpai

>>1062261
cool, thanks. I'll try and find a good 9sp mtb derailleur.

>Also, why this Gevanelle monstrosity, why not regular shimano road brifters?
because they are basically barcons on a more covenient spot. Seems like the best of both worlds even though the comfort isn't quite as high as regular brifters (but still way more comfy than barcons)
It seems great for offroad touring when you can't really let go of the bars to shift all the time when bombing down a hill

>>1062237
holy shit you are right

t.went commando for the first time

>>1062290
To be more precise, for
>24/36/48 front and a 11-32 back
you need a derailleur which is capable of not less than 48-24=24 front difference and (48-24)+(32-11)=45 total capacity. Not sure if such even exist though, for example this one
http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/e-bike/shifting/derailleurs/rd-m610-sgs-s.html (note that it's the SGS, i.e. long cage version)
is 22 and 43, which means it could take 26/xx/48 & 11/32. And it would need the Gevanelle GX 10sp.
If you go the 9sp way, paired with the Gevanelle CX 9sp shifters, the newest derailleurs you can get would be some from either 2007 XTR groupset (M970) or 2008 (M770) or 2009 SLX (M660) or 2010 Deore (M590), or some newer lower-tier stuff (Alivio, Acera).

The RD-M972 / RD-M772 / RD-M662 / RD-M592 SGS versions can do 45 total capacity and 22 front difference
http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_5W70B/SI-5W70B-001-SLK_v1_m56577569830679715.pdf
(other language versions seem to be 404)
RD-M771 SGS can 45 and 22 too
http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Deore-XT/SI_5W60A_002/SI_5W60A_001/SI_5W60A_001_En_v1_m56577569830616243.pdf
RD-M770 SGS can too
http://www.shimano.com.au/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Deore-XT/SI_6MSRA_001/SI-6MSRA-002-ENG_v1_m56577569830682522.pdf
Note that RD-M770 is reverse spring type, aka low-normal, and so is the RD-M970, i.e. they shift the other way around.
Im too lazy to check, but I guess the RD-M661, RD-M591, RD-971 must be 45/22 too (RD-M590 and RD-M660 don't exist).
Similarily, make sure you get a front derailleur which is designed for your chainring sizes.
Read this perhaps https://www.sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.htm

>even though the comfort isn't quite as high as regular brifters
In that case, what is it then that makes you choose Gevanelle over Shimano brifters?

Can i get ABS fitted on my bike? If not, why not?

>>1062366
Yes. There are some rim brake pads that are designed to slip as the wheel locks up, works through vibrations or some voodoo shit. Personally I wouldn't trust it to not slip prematurely or to not slip at all, I'd rather just learn how to brake effectively.

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>>1062366
There's pic related, and also some Nexave v-brakes and brake levers with something similar built-in.
>It's spring-loaded and is intended to make your brakes spongy and ineffective-- WAIT, no, the script says it helps you avoid applying excessive front brake force and flinging yourself over the handlebars. Yeah, that.

>>1062368
Did you mean this vaporware?
>https://www.bikerumor.com/2012/03/01/sabs-brake-pads-bring-antilock-tech-to-your-bike/

>>1062379
>Did you mean this vaporware?
Yeah that's the shit, although it's not vapourware. You can get them from their site for $110CAD.

>>1062235
Sometimes, especially with newer shimano, the shift aids (ramps, pins and cut teeth) are all designed to work best together and with their correlating shimano drive train components (chains, front derailleur)

I would run rings with similar design so that the shifting feels the same on each jump, but you can experiment, especially if you have access to used rings at a co-op or something

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what do you guys think of these for wiping down drive chain to lube?

>>1062412

it doesn't matter what you use at all, I generally use a rag or a old sock.

>>1058563
what is the CHEAPEST way to convert an old schwinn steel 10 speed into a meme fixie?

it was a bit of a clunker that i just "dealt with'' riding but ive recently gotten a better old bike so now it's free to be experimented on

i am good with mechanical bits on bikes but i dont have much experience with fixed gear conversions so im not sure what parts i should even be looking for

>>1062386
>$110CAD for BRAKES

just learn how to brake better, for the love of god (and your wallet)

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If I convert to a 1x drivetrain from 3x9, will I have to shorten my chain? My rings are 22-32-44, could I just replace my middle ring with something like the Race Face Narrow Wide?

What can I buy from walmart right now to clean my bike to prepare to sell it? I want to do it right now because i know i will lose motivation the next day or week

>>1062443
If you're clueless and looking to go cheap, I'd suggest turning your bike into a single-speed first, make sure you like riding it in one gear before making it fully fixed. You can do this by taking the shifters and FD off, use the high limit screw on the RD to keep the chain locked into the gear of your choice.

>>1062450
chain can stay the same length, and yes you could - you might need to replace the chain if it's really worn out already tho

>>1062451
You're not going to have motivation in the future to sell your bike? The answer seems to be to buy nothing from Walmart and go ride your bike instead.

>>1060427
Well I finally got it working tonight and love it.
Here's a pic >>1062405

This is my first quality road bike and I had a blast riding it. I had a little issue getting used to downtube shifters because directions aren't intuitive (up/down do the opposite for front/back gears) and I got distracted and bailed over a curb. I got used to it now and it's a really fun ride.

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best cable and d-lock for under 200 dollary-doos?

i was thinking about getting a kryptomeme faget d-lock for frame+rear and a looped cable for the front wheel into the d-lock. this is for commuting to work where the bike will be locked to a rack inside a lit parking garage with security cameras and moderate foot traffic under a medium-sized high-end conference hotel in a suburban city in a flyover state.

>>1062465
OnGuard Bulldog Mini or Kryptonite Evolution Mini, both are available in a set with a cable.
Both can only really be broken with power tools, and any lock can be broken with power tools so there's no sense in spending more or carrying more weight.

With one of these, and the modified Sheldon Brown locking method, your bike will be the best locked bike on pretty much any rack, and that's really all that counts.

>>1062473
thanks bud!

>>1062465
That is a large lock budget. So ill recommend my ideal setup that is still well under budget.

Good mini u lock from abus or on guard or kryptonite. ~$60

Set of pin head security skewers out axle nuts fit wheels ~$50

Just secure the wheels and put the I lock through main triangle a high as possible

Destroyed my fast commuter in a crash so I gotta rebuild it.

Is there any noticeable difference between cheap brake and shift cables, and the expensive stuff? I'm a tightfag but the other parts are high end (6700)

>>1062030
Latter. Yeah I think it's a square taper.

I swear I'm never buying a used bicycle again. With all the money I spent on sorting this one out I could've bought a decent new bike.

>>1061954
Currently downtube non-indexed Campagnolo shifters, not sure what model. 7-speed. From the 70s.

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>>1062503

So by crank tool you mean an extractor like this pic?
This will just let you take the crankarms off the axle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPQyQnNdews
For you to be able to replace the bb,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBnYoYVTnlo
you will also need a bb wrench, most likely one like this for a square taper bb
http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-22
(there are some square taper bbs that need a different one, but those are rare).
Be aware that, especially if your cranks are aluminum and even more so if the bike has seen some salt in winters, they might be seized to the axle. Spray some wd40 in there where crank's inner square surface sits on the axle. If you got very bad luck, you might end just stripping the puller thread instead of pulling the crank off (more chances to that if you got a cheapo 5$ chink puller).
In that case something like this will need to be done
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrpIoXxVyTs
To prevent cranks become seized on your new bb, put some grease on the axle.


>all the money I spent
Consider buying tools as an investment that will let you fix your bikes yourself in the future, not just this bb right now. Even if you buy a new bike, parts will eventually wear out and need replacing.

>>1062503
But the mechanical knowledge and practice is priceless!

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>>1062499
>noticeable difference between cheap brake and shift cables
There is, between the very cheap galvanized ones and stainless ones. Go for the latter like pic related. You don't necessarily need the top-tier teflon coated ones.

>>1062461
cool, good to see you picked the better bike, fellow tallbro.

the opposite thing concerning the shifters gets more intuitive with use but also learning to fix and adjust them. when you fundamentally understand how they move by watching it happen while you tweak it, it really clicks into place.

very clean bike, but for gods sake sort out those QR levers

>>1062360
thanks so much for the help anon. I realise going 24 front and 32 back is kinda ridiculous too, i'll just opt for the standard 26/36/48 front and get a 11-32/34 in the back. I've only been touring on a 34 front 36 back, and that got a bit too heavy during some extended 20 degree climbs... 26 and 32 should get me low enough. I'll look around to see what I can get around here

>In that case, what is it then that makes you choose Gevanelle over Shimano brifters?
because you get the benefits of a barcon still, friction shifting if something breaks, easy repairability, higher durability.

Do Brooks saddles really live up to the hype? I'm thinking of buying one for my upcoming cross country tour.

>>1062551
Leather saddles really are great, and they do have the advantage of conforming to your behind over time - but yes, they are overhyped too. Just buying a Brooks isn't going to magically transform your bike into a comfy couch, you still have to find a saddle with the right basic shape, and leather saddles have the disadvantages of being heavier and being vulnerable to water damage. If you have a non-leather saddle that's already comfortable for you to ride on then you should keep using it, but if you need to find something more comfortable for long hours in the saddle, then sure I'd suggest giving a leather saddle a try and see if it suits you. One nice thing about Brooks saddles is that there's always a market for lightly used leather saddles, so you can get back much of the initial investment if you decide a Brooks isn't for you.

>>1062554
Is 78$ a good price for a new one?

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Hey /n/, newfag college student here;
I picked up a GMC Denali road bike from a garage sale for $20 2 years ago. I put a bit of effort ($40 in parts and some labour) into fixing it up (polished a turd, really), but it's starting to go. Hubs, bottom bracket, and headset are fucky. Bike shop quotes me at a $175 overhaul, essentially the MSRP of a new one. I personally estimate that I'll only be able to get another 6 months, or maybe until the winter, before it'll effectively die.

I'm eyeing another bike a student is selling: it's a Schwinn Sport Lmtd, listed at $200. The shop said that if I wanted, I could have them inspect it before I buy. It does look in good shape, but here's my question:

Do I go ahead and purchase the new bike, provided it's in good shape? Or do I wait until the life of the bike ends and then start looking?

If I buy the Schwinn, what should I do with my old one? I don't exactly have room to store it, but I could part it out for spare components and I guess scrap the frame or something. I'm planning on switching out the treads: I have a set of Schwalbes Marathon plus's I'd rather not lose. Or should I just sell the GMC for probably $50?

>Pic related, it's the scwhinn

>>1062540
>the benefits of a barcon
What are they?

>>1062555
That's a fair price for pretty much any leather saddle in good shape - not cheap or a steal, but a fair price.

>>1062603
Do you have a bike coop where you live? To overhaul the hubs, BB, and headset are all relatively simple tasks that require almost nothing except the proper sized wrenches. The only part you'll actually replace would be the cartridge bottom bracket (~$20), so the repairs are by no means expensive, and would be easy to learn to do if that was on option. You could buy your own tools and grease and do all the work yourself for less than $100 and then you'd have most of the things you'd need to work on your next bike too... But... given that it's a BSO your looking to fix, you might just sell it as a crappy bike for $20 and break even.

As for that Schwinn, if it's your size I'd buy it, but not for $200 unless the tires were new, everything was overhauled already and the seller includes the front derailer and inner chainring that were removed from the bike at some point.

>>1062615
Not him, but friction shifters are practically indestructible, adjustment-free, and maintenance free, plus they allow you to mix many kinds of drivetrain components (good for people who want to use whatever drivetrain components they can source quickly and inexpensively).

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>>1062622
There is a bike co-op, yes, but I rarely have the time. I've done a few repairs myself (I've tightened and repacked the hubs twice myself), but as a long-term thing...I dunno. Especially next year, when I'll be working on a design project. It's getting to the point where basically every other week I notice a new grinding or vibration.

It turns out that the Schwinn was sold. What are some thoughts on a Nishiki fixie? I'm used to multi-speed bikes, but I don't really have a strong preference one way or another. The campus is in the midwest, so hills and stuff are minimal. It's being sold for $140, much cheaper.

>>1062551
No, they're shit. Leather saddles in general are shit. Don't buy into the memes.

>>1062499
>Is there any noticeable difference between cheap brake and shift cables, and the expensive stuff? I'm a tightfag but the other parts are high end (6700)
Longevity. Higher end ones will last longer, not rust/snap/etc. As other anon said, get stainless (not teflon).

>>1062499
>Destroyed my fast commuter in a crash

>>1062465
Abus Bordo Ecolution 6000
Advantages of folding lock:
>about as strong as u-lock
>uncommon, so thieves lack experience breaking this type of lock
>folds up compact, nicer than chain
>can wrap around something thicker than a u-lock can wrap around, such as a small tree; convenient when a bike rack is not available
>can lock up both wheels and frame if you remove a wheel
>>1062443
>what is the CHEAPEST way to convert an old schwinn steel 10 speed into a meme fixie?
You could start by killing yourself, then you won't have this terrible idea anymore so it won't matter how much it would cost
>>1062236
Bike shorts have padding that basically takes the place of underwear. They are meant to be worn with nothing over or under.
>>1062247
http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/
>>1062235
Kind of. It would still generally work, but the shifting wouldn't be as smooth as it's supposed to be. Look up "matched pairs" if you want more info. It's about how the ramps and pins line up.

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>>1062642
>They are meant to be worn with nothing over or under.

feels like you're wearing nothing at all!

In the market for a new mtb. I'm currently trying to choose between the Norco Range A7.1 and the Mondraker Foxy. Help me /n/

>>1063273
When you're spending that sort of money you really want to test ride both of them. They both have good points, the Norco has a bit more travel and is slacker and longer and has a dropper, the Foxy is a bit lighter, shorter, steeper, and has a double drivetrain. The Foxy will probably climb better and handle tight technical stuff easier, the Norco being better at descending and really rough stuff.

Got myself a gently used trek 4300. Car is going to be kill for a while so I figured I may as well switch to cycling. Haven't ridden a bicycle since I was 12, maybe. Being a commuter and needing to do groceries with it I got a basket for it but I still need a rear rack and a kickstand. Anybody got good but cheap recommendations?

Does anybody have any experience with straightening bent cogs? The second smallest ring is bent and I'm afraid to take a screwdriver to it because I have to use the closest cogs for leverage and I don't want to bend those too. And what should I use for reference since I have to move the chain two cogs up to gain access to the bent cog.

>>1065390
Remove the cassette, take the bent cog, lay it on a flat and hard surface, whack it with a hammer until it's straight.