/bqg/ - Bike Questions General

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>>1050567
OP here
I wanted to get pic related but then I saw OP pic related and I just don't know about this pump now...

https://item.jd.com/1639154452.html

I've been given a hand me down bicycle, that's a good 15 years old and in need of maintenance and possibly repairs
.
I want to do it myself, but as a total beginner I'm not confident I should. Should I just go to a bicycle repair store?

>>1050568
>im afraid to buy things that can break
>ever
How's that dirt floor clay hut working out for you?

>>1050579
>getting salty while missing the point
Take a closer look at the pressure gauge. Then think about what pressure your tires use.

>>1050576
>I want to do it myself, but as a total beginner I'm not confident I should
Find a bike coop/workshop group somewhere. Lots of cities have them.

Have some look keo 2 max pedals I got with a second hand bike a few years ago, I'd say they're 5+ years old at this point. They work fine but is it worth upgrading to something like the ultegra spd-sl, would I feel much of a difference?

>>1050595
No

Sorry for reposting from previous thread but if I get no ideas by tomorrow then I'm forced to overspend again by leaving it for someone else to repair.
The total toll weighs really heavily on me, I could have easily bought a new bike for the total sum already spent on trying to fix this one.
But it's too late for that now, and I'm facing even more expenses if I'm to fix it by paying someone else.
And it's just one problem, why is it so elusive?

Anyway - anything is appreciated.


I need your help again /bqg/

Greentext to keep long story short:
>bike old, wasn't serviced for over 5 years, experiences breakdowns far too often
>get it fixed by a serviceman. Replaced: cassette, chain, and couple things unrelated to drivetrain (tubes and tires)
>since then links get stiff at a very very fast rate - you can get 1-3 stiff links during a 30 min ride (this is not an exaggerration)
>ever-present "jumps" that accompany stiff links suck all the pleasure from riding
>getting rid of stiffness is easy, re-lubricating is easy, none however fix the underlying issue and links keep getting stuck, stiff and whole drivetrain keeps jumping
>been to the serviceman twice since, he only fixed the stiff links, outright refused to fix the underlying cause
>fed up, gave up on him, ask /bgq/ for advice
>following your advice end up replacing entire crankset and chain
>only parts of drivetrain left from before the servicing are deraileurs
>only part of drivetrain left from the servicing (the evil one, the one that broke the bike) is cassette
>issue still persists

Spring is on the way and I'd like to be able to get back to riding again.
How do I get it fixed?

Thanks.

>>1050568
>>1050579
That's not a bike pump, it's for inflating high pressure cylinders for use with air rifles. It doesn't even have a Presta or Schrader head on the hose.

>>1050598
At this point I think you need a priest/shaman, your bike is obviously cursed by a malevolent spirit that's stealing the oil out of your chain...

More seriously, how do you ride and store your bike, and what kinds of chains are you using? What you're describing is peculiar, unless you're regularly exposing the chain to mud or salt water or chemical solvents it's hard to imagine why you'd have recurrent problems with stiff links without a highly unusual manufacturing defect.

>>1050607
>That's not a bike pump, it's for inflating high pressure cylinders for use with air rifles. It doesn't even have a Presta or Schrader head on the hose.
Oh shit. Thanks.

It came up when I searched for bike pump (in Chinese) but I don't read the language well enough to be certain of what I was looking at.

>>1050613
>It came up when I searched for bike pump
And the Chinese in the product title actually says bike pump which doesn't help...

>>1050610
>At this point I think you need a priest/shaman
I know, it sounds blasted impossible. I probably wouldn't believe an Anon that claimed such a thing myself and yet here I am.
Planning to mount a camera on the frame ~somehow~ and record what's going on there today. Though I doubt this will help, but worth a try.

>how do you ride and store your bike
It's stored indoors at all times along with other bikes (not mine) which never had any chain/drivetrain issues. Same way it was stored before the problem began.
Most likely not that.

I ride at highest or close to highest gear most of the time and avoid wet weather. Mostly in city, rarely off-road.

Links get stiff at much lower rate when paying attention to always apply low torque to the crank, this way I can still ride the bike to LBS or something with minor casualties.
But applying a lot of torque immediately results in a stiff link and a chain "jump", no matter crank rotation, chain position or gear.
If force is applied for prolonged time (like trying to accelerate from high gear) it can even do a double stiff link and double chain jump in a row, from just that one action.

>what kinds of chains are you using?
Currently on Connex 808. Before on some cheap chink shit that I couldn't even find on the internet. Experiencing the issue no matter which chain.
The one before that - can't remember the model or brand - had no such issues, but it was before the "repair" after which everything went wrong.

>it's hard to imagine why you'd have recurrent problems with stiff links without a highly unusual manufacturing defect
And yet that too is extremely unlikely considering I've already replaced most parts including most likely culprits like the chain itself.

Could it be possible that when applying a lot of torque, due to improper mounting, some part of the drivetrain applies pressure on chain or otherwise forcibly "stops" chain, so to compensate the links "stretch" resulting in stiffness, jumps, and what have you?

>>1050621
>Connex
best chains ever

Are you using a single-speed chainring or freewheel or a 10 or 11 speed freewheel or a 5 or 6 speed freehub? An 8-speed chain will work with 7, 8, or 9-sp parts, otherwise there's a mismatch between the width of the teeth and the width of the chain.

But if you're getting actual stiff links then it's probably a chemical issue... is there something dripping on the chain while it's in storage?

The only way torque would damage a chain is if the chainline was seriously off, or if your frame was badly misaligned (you would have noticed this already though). But if you're getting issues every time you pedal hard, it could be that the frame is flexing (is there damage to the frame? look close at the bottom bracket and chainstays) and so the chain gets pulled tight because the distance between crank and hub increases.

>>1050598
What are you relubricating with and has the chain ever been subjected to solvents or degreasers? If you've been using something from a spray can - stop it. If it's been drenched in grease cutter then buy a new chain. If it's even possible that it's the same link over and over then you need to find and replace the link.

Now, this assumes it actually _is_ a stiff link. A new chain on a worn cassette will cause skipping. If your LBS was trying to save a few bucks by passing you a used cassette, that's very likely to be the problem. A misaligned derailleur hanger can cause chain catches and ghost shifts that can _feel_ kinda sorta like a skip.

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>>1050621
>But applying a lot of torque immediately results in a stiff link and a chain "jump", no matter crank rotation, chain position or gear.
That description doesn't fit that of a stiff link very well.
Please, describe without any use of jargon what exactly happens. In five year old terms.

If it's just a skip then you likely have a worn cassette. The fact that you got the advise to switch the chainset/chain rings indicates that you have previously described or the problem has been interpreted as chain suck. That's something else. Pic related and please google it.
I believe that was an error on his or your part. Confirm, please.

>>1050621
>But applying a lot of torque immediately results in a stiff link and a chain "jump", no matter crank rotation, chain position or gear.
Not the stiff link but the chain "jump" is the exact description of a worn cassette. Assuming that you replaced the chain, cassette and chain rings at more or less the same time (with a few months of each other say), that shouldn't happen though.

And that doesn't cause stiff links anyway.

>>1050624
It's a triple chainwheel and a 7 sprocket cassette in the rear.

I'm not 100% certain the links are actually getting stiff - they were getting stiff on that chink chain for sure (I had to unstuck them manually many times) but the feel and jumpiness is the same on this one so I assumed that's it's the same thing.
My bad, though in my defense I want to minimize the wear of the new chain - so I'm not going to ride-until-they-go-stiff just to be sure, unless absolutely necessary.

The chainline is the same as it was previously, I paid careful attention to that.
I will investigate the frame flexing possibility.

>>1050626
No degreasers, solvents or grease cutters. It's a brand new chain I rode maybe 2-3 hours on it, the issue was there since the first minute (and before that, as it so happened the chain wasn't the cause).

>If it's even possible that it's the same link over and over then you need to find and replace the link.
Not possible. I investigated if it's perhaps the connector link, but it's not. And the jumps will happen no matter the chain rotation or which link is on the teeth, so that can't be one link's fault.

>If your LBS was trying to save a few bucks by passing you a used cassette, that's very likely to be the problem
I have to admit this might be the thing since the cassette isn't looking the freshest despite being used for a relatively short amount of time.
But at this point it might be just my witch hunt since I've replaced almost everything and the issue magically persists.

>A misaligned derailleur hanger can cause chain catches and ghost shifts
This is another good guess since deraileurs are the only remaining parts from before any repairs.
What's the best course of action to investigate this?

>>1050632
>It's a triple chainwheel and a 7 sprocket cassette in the rear.
OK. That's a perfectly plausible way to end up with a used cassette or freewheel. 7spd parts are so out of date that you typical LBS doesn't have a lot. He took what he had, believing it was good. It was in fact too worn to accept a new chain.
>What's the best course of action to investigate this?
Going with the most likely culprit first, the cassette, is to either find a fresh cassette _or_freewheel_. Research which you need.
An option is to find/loan/steal-but-return a well used 7spd or 8spd chain, just to try. If that fixes the skipping then you know that you need to either keep that chain or get a new cassette for your fresh chain.

>>1050627
>That description doesn't fit that of a stiff link very well.

Agreed. This sounds EXACTLY like chainskip from putting a new chain on a very worn cassette.

>>1050598
>>1050621
OP, why are you calling it a "stiff link"? Do you actually stop and find stiff links in your chain that need to be manually freed up, or are you just experiencing chain skips when you press hard on the pedals?

This is a stiff link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hklVw3KErKw

>>1050627
>That description doesn't fit that of a stiff link very well
The links did get stiff in the exact same manner (and possibly same cause) on a previous chain, that I am certain of.
On this new chain I'm getting the same symptoms, but won't risk excessive chain wear to ride enough to cause the stiffness if there's no need for it.

>Please, describe without any use of jargon what exactly happens. In five year old terms.
Pedaling hard causes the chain to jump which makes crank jump a bit. Feels a little like shifting gears but isn't as smooth and appears to skip several links.
Happens regardless of gear, weather, chain, rider, type of road, etc.

>The fact that you got the advise to switch the chainset/chain rings indicates that you have previously described or the problem has been interpreted as chain suck
Wasn't and isn't chain suck. Crankset got replaced mostly because people here said it was a huge no-no to put new chain on old cogs and were guessing that this might be the cause.
Plus, upon further inspection, the chainwheels had broken-off teeth due to wear. So even if it didn't fix the issue - I'm not regretting replacing it as it was much needed.

>>1050631
Initially only chain and cassette was replaced. Issue started then.
Then chainwheel got replaced (no more than 2 months later) and, in case old chainwheel somehow damaged the chain, also the chain. The issue persisted through that and is still at large.
Like I said here
>>1050632
It's not impossible for the serviceman to have used an old/used/damaged cassette during repairs, but I'd prefer to eliminate other possibilities first.

>>1050633
>7spd parts are so out of date that you typical LBS doesn't have a lot. He took what he had, believing it was good. It was in fact too worn to accept a new chain.
That's *exactly* my line of reasoning.

>>1050634
>Do you actually stop and find stiff links in your chain that need to be manually freed up, or are you just experiencing chain skips when you press hard on the pedals?
Currently only the latter, but like I explained in other posts the previous chain's links were actually getting stiff - as in - having to manually get them unstiff kind-of stiff.
Exactly as described and presented on the video.

But since the chain was replaced I do not have a 100% certainty that links get stuck now too. The symptoms do feel exactly same when riding. Well maybe except the repeats-every-full-chain-cycle part.
If these are different things then it's an erroneous assumption on my part, terribly sorry for the confusion.

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>>1050635
>The links did get stiff in the exact same manner (and possibly same cause) on a previous chain, that I am certain of.
That's irrelevant.
>On this new chain I'm getting the same symptoms, but won't risk excessive chain wear to ride enough to cause the stiffness if there's no need for it.
Actually, more chain wear is likely to _fix_ the issue, not worsen it. I have in fact done exactly that once when the problem was very slight, just on one or two cogs, and I knew the cassette was just very minimally too worn - I pedalled softly for the first few hundred miles and waited for it to go away.
>Crankset got replaced mostly because people here said it was a huge no-no to put new chain on old cogs.
Yes, it can cause chain suck. Which on road chainsets with profiled teeth usually takes a fuckton of wear and even then only manifests very rarely.
>Plus, upon further inspection, the chainwheels had broken-off teeth due to wear.
No, it had aids. Shift aids. Or ramps - whatever you prefer to call them. Broken teeth doesn't happen in the real world.

>>1050635
>Pedaling hard causes the chain to jump which makes crank jump a bit. Feels a little like shifting gears but isn't as smooth and appears to skip several links.
>Initially only chain and cassette was replaced. Issue started then.
>>1050636
"Do you actually stop and find stiff links in your chain that need to be manually freed up, or are you just experiencing chain skips when you press hard on the pedals?"
>Currently only the latter
>The symptoms do feel exactly same when riding. Well maybe except the repeats-every-full-chain-cycle part.

Fresh chain skipping on a worn-in cassette. End of story.

>>1050637
>Broken teeth doesn't happen in the real world.
I've seen actual broken teeth before.
But yeah, when I see people complain about "broken" or "worn out" teeth on a chainring, more than nine times out of ten they're pointing at a shift ramp.

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>>1050637
Well as you can probably guess by now I'm not an expert.
But the teeth are worn to a sharp point with the "ramp" being half the expected height and none of the expected shape.

Here's the picture if you're interested.

>>1050638
>Fresh chain skipping on a worn-in cassette. End of story.
Very well then.

Thank you and everyone else for your help, once again you were invaluable in pinpointing the issue while I was stuck running circles.
Related question - would I experience any compatibility issues if I were to switch to a 8 or 9 speed cassette, assuming same chain (Connex 808)?

>>1050638
>>1050642
Upon further inspection the cassette is absolutely brand new with zero signs of wear or damage.

Do I try for the other possibility of rear deraileur hanger being misaligned?
And how would one go about it without the DAG tool?

Or should I just call a shaman because this is getting beyond the realm of being possible very quickly?

>>1050651
The wear doesn't have to be visible to cause issues with a brand new chain. I have cassettes that look "brand new" and shiny but don't accept fresh chains. Get a new chain/freewheel and stop speculating.

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I got a 26" nope funworks n75 atmosphere wheelset. the hubs have really nice decals but the rims are plain black.
I've been thinking about putting some decals on there.
I don't know which ones though.
nope apperently dosen't do rim decals.

any ideas ?

>>1050576
what >>1050582 said, and also check out sheldon brown's website

>>1050659
It's a CS-HG41 on a FH-MC12.

Thorough research say I can't fit a 8 or 9 speed cassette on 7 speed hub unless I take 8 sprockets from 9 speed or 9 from 10.
Which I wouldn't mind doing, but it still means getting a new deraileur which is too expensive for me.

So what do I do? Buy the exact same model then?

>>1050651
Photo pls

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I really apologize for this question, /fit/ did not answer me, but.

So. 180/60 (5'11, 132) and I want picrelated body (sure I have to eat big and workout).

I've been doing rugby for several years, even though I am always a wing (14) and don't score much. My trainings are not very consistent, I train several month 2 times a week, sometimes we play games, then it is a break for several month (but this not due to laziness, guess, since March I would be training with no breaks up till the summer).

The question is: it's been less than a week since I've started doing 25-30 km on bicycle, been driving bicycle for shorter distances (6-10km) almost every day for the past three month.
What is better - should I aim for a longer distance or to cover distance faster? Takes me about 2 hours currently for 25-30km.

>>1050607
ohhhhh, no wonder. I just assumed the psi scale was mislabeled.

I liked the filename, tho
>ProductMayNotPerformAsPictured.jpg

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>>1050665
I assume you wanted a photo of the cassette?
It's nighttime and I can't get proper lightning so the quality is shit, apologies.

How do I prevent chain dropping on a 1x drivetrain? No narrow-wide chainring or anything, just a regular 2x7 drivetrain without a FD

>>1050694
Get a narrow wide, clutched derailer, chain guide, and make sure your chain is as short as possible.

>>1050664
>Buy the exact same model then?
Why not?

>>1050694

is chain dropping an actual problem for you or is this more something hypothetical ?

I've 1x a few bikes and never had problems.
anyway if it is a problem , adding a bashguard instead of one of the chainrings might solve it cheap

>>1050704
Out of fear the part is perfectly fine and I'm blowing three day's pay for nothing.
I'm still gonna order it, for a lack of a better choice (it's the cheapest 7 speed cassette anyway).

>>1050694
Put the front derailer back on

>>1050710
>three day's pay
Your earn ten dollars a day? It's a cassette. It's not a fucking turbine compressor stage. They're about £20 or less.

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Ok so recently i bought this peugeot PHE20 frame (pic related, it's from 1988 afaik) and as i feared my spare tiagra brakes caliper do no fit on the frame. It's not just the fact that i would have to drill the frame but also that the reach of these calipers is to short.

So my question is : do you know where i can buy modern (not second hand) brake calipers that are fitting the standars of old twelve speed bike ?

>>1050710
Here, silly.
https://www.bike24.com/1.php?__qf_product-list-order-by=&orderby=2&content=7&menu=1000%2C2%2C82&pgc%5B62%5D=214

http://www.wiggle.com/sram-pg730-7-speed-cassette/

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>>1050716
Shimano 451 and pic related.

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>>1050716
Also PHE20 is just the "code name" (or whatever the proper term for this is), the name of the model is "mont blanc".

If the peugeot fags of the pybt comes by : you're part of the reasons i bought this frame. Your bike's gorgeous.

Any help apreciated.

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>>1050718
Ok thanks !

Now stupid question : will these brakes calipers work with pic related ?

And if i buy two front brakes calipers, will this prevent me from drilling the frame for the rear brake ?

Is cleaning the stanchions with a rag after a ride wrong? It's still cold in my city and the city workers are not sweeping the pavements everyday so I get a lot of dust on the front of the fork that I wipe off every time I get home.
It's a Suntour XCM if it really matters.

>>1050727
That's fine.

>>1050729
My biggest concern is wiping away the grease on the stanchions thus causing premature wear. I feel some resistance in the travel in the last few days, specifically at night time when the temperatures drop. Is this something I should be worried about?

>>1050734
If there's oil on the stanchion (not grease) then the wiper seals are worn and need replacing (probably better off replacing the whole fork). The stanchions are lubricated by oil inside the lower legs and the seals wipe that off as the fork extends and keeps it inside the fork.

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Opinion question here. I was thinking of adding a little bit more 90's to my old mongoose. First thing that came to mind was red chainring bolts. What do you guys think

>>1050743
>red chainring bolts
yes, that would look dank as fuck
you should replace that saddlebag with one that's pastel yellow or purple
also, you need to wear a fanny pack at all times

>>1050743
Before worrying about aesthetics you should get a front brake and a new saddle.

>>1050743
Anodized stem and seatpost
But seriously, get a fucking front brake

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>>1050745
I don't know man, the saddlebag is called "Lightning Wedge" so I think it's 90's enough as is
>>1050746
>>1050748
I ordered a travel agent just now so I will be able to install a v brake up front within the next few days. Didn't want to get rid of the old XT levers. I'll be keeping the saddle because it's comfortable and matches the color scheme

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>>1050743
Skin tires

>>1050749
>lightning wedge
you're right, that is pretty 90s

Since i'm a noob and i want to learn how to repair my bicycle, I just ordered a 500 page long book, the title translates into something like "bicycle engineering".
Did i dun goofd?

>>1050743
Is that the rock shox xc 30?

>>1050803
Just take it apart and put it back together anon-kun. Bicycles aren't all that mysterious.

I have a pedal stuck in the crank of my unicycle. The thread spins, but no matter how many times it rotates it doesn't come out. Is there any way to get it out, or is the crank/pedal fucked?

>>1050819
the crank is definitely fucked. the pedal might not be, but could be. thankfully unicycle crank arms are cheap as fuck. is there a chance that you installed the pedals in the wrong side crank arms? it is really easy to do on a unicycle.

gas the bikes race car now

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Are these good for mtb they are 26x 2.10 I also have the choice of kenda 2.50 and 2.35

>>1050842
I have a Santa Cruz blur xcc I'm not sure the kenda 2.5 will fit tho that's my issue

>>1050819
>>1050838
>the crank is definitely fucked.
No, just drill it out and install a helicoil.

would a Shimano FD-A073 work with a 48/38/28t crank?

>>1050898
There are two versions of the FD-A073, a triple and a double - triple is pic related. Either will work for a triple with a 48t crank if you're using friction shifters, but if you want indexed shifting to work as smoothly as possible with your triple chainrings, you should use the triple version.

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>>1050900
>>1050898
image

>>1050737
There's no oil on them, they are brand new and it's my first suspension fork bike and I want it to last as long as possible. Also when I was wiping them earlier close to a light source i noticed tiny scratches on the surface not visible unless you shine a light at an angle. Similar to what you see on the paint of an older car after a thousand washes. Is this normal or is my wiping causing this?

>>1050900
thanks friend

>>1050903
It's probably a mixture of both, lower end forks won't have as good a finish and any grit on the cloth is also going to scratch it. It's nothing to worry about though, small scratches won't prevent the seal from doing its job.

>>1050898
>>1050900
No. Mountainbike and road triple chainring spacing is different. Chainline is also different. So different that many Shimano road derailleurs will not reach the outer ring of a triple MTB.

It can sometimes be made to sorta-kinda work - I've made it work - but it will always be a kludge even in the best of cases and shifting will never be perfect across the range.

There are touring derailleurs for touring/MTB triples and clicky shifters. For road shifters - save yourself a lot of trouble and use a road chainset. Assuming it fits your frame.

>>1050674
Get faster. You're slow as fuck.

>>1050813
xc28

I'm about to do my first 10 mile bike ride ever, on a side street near a highway (where a local bike club rides).

Any idea what I should bring on the ride? Obviously water, but is it okay if I bring a jelly?

How should I pace myself in the ride? It has a fair number of steady and long uphills.

>>1050947
Are you incredibly unhealthy? If not it shouldn't be a problem at all, 10 miles is nothing. It's not even a big deal if you don't bring water, it should take you less than an hour.

>>1050947
Just switch gears according to whatever speed feels comfortable to ride on. Don't push yourself on hills, you'll tire yourself out surprisingly quick. spin2win
You'll be fine with just water. Just don't eat too much right before riding, you could get a stomach cramp and that's not nice.

>>1050948
I'm fairly heavy, even though I am vigorously active. Uphills still scares me.

>>1050950
Ok, thanks. I'll just keep the jelly in my pocket just in case the ride gets too long.

I have an old old bike. I am going to replace the chain soon, should I replace the cassettes as well? How do I tell when to replace chains/cassettes or what I need to replace them?

>>1050976
You can measure chain wear with a ruler. Whether the freewheel/cassette needs to be replaced depends on how badly worn the chain has gotten (the teeth on the cassette, and the chainrings, get worn down to match the chain).

You should go read the Sheldon Brown article on chain wear, it explains the principles too.

>>1050908
Is the chainring spacing itself actually different? I thought it was just a different cable pull motion ratio on MTB derailleurs vs road derailleurs.

>>1050947
Definitely bring a water bottle. If you think it's going to take you much more than 90 minutes or so, a small snack isn't a bad idea. I like to chow on something small every hour when I do long rides.

>pace
Take care not to push too hard at the start or at the bottom of the hills, stay comfortable and pay attention to your breathing. The goal is to finish, and who cares how fast you go. After a few rides you'll have a better idea of what you can do.

>>1050948
10 miles (16 km) is actually a lot for a total newbie, especially if they're on not gofast equipment that could easily be an hour.

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>>1050576
should probably get a new one.

My bicycle has 18 gears. I want to upgrade to 21 gears.
I'm pretty sure I need to buy
1. new cassett (7, instead of 6)
2. a new chain (old one should theoretically fit though)
3. a new shift knob/lever, including cabel, because mine only goes up to 6
4. a new derailleur (but the old one should fit)
What else?

>>1051035
to my knowledge it is the cable pull ratio that is different. i actualy tried mtb front derailleurs with sti shifters and its a pretty terrible combo

>>1051061
What for?

>>1051061
Could you take a picture of your current drivetrain?

You probably won't need a new derailer, you might be able to get away with the original shifter (if it's a friction shifter or has a friction setting, not indexed for 6 speeds), and if it's a 6-sp I would think it's highly likely that you have a freewheel and not a cassette (and if it is a cassette on a late 80's bike, with 6-speed it's probably Uniglide and incompatible with anything but Uniglide cassettes)

Just did my 10 mile ride and I feel refreshed. Felt pretty tired and scared I wasn't going to make it half way, but second half felt good. Should I try 15 miles next?

>>1051140
Did you eat the jelly?
You should try 30 miles next

So I fell for the first time like a dumbass when leaving for a ride. I wasn't going fast but I was accelerating a bit as it happened. Now my rear wheel "oscillates" and will briefly rub against the brake pads while spinning unless I precisely adjust the brakes to avoid it. I'm planning on taking it to my local bike shop to get it checked out, but I wanted to know how fixable this is. There's no obvious visible damage, but it seems like the wheel itself is warped or something. Has this happened to anyone else here?

>>1051185
Check the wheel. Is the actual rim bent? Is the axle crooked? Is the hub loose so it makes the wheel "dance" on itself? There's several reasons your wheel could rub against the brake pads. Learn how your bike actually works, then fix it yourself. It's not hard.

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Does this seem like a decent first bike? I found it on Craigslist and it's really cheap ($90). I say "first bike" because I haven't rode a bike since I was 8 and I never rode much when I was young (I am 20 now).

I will mostly be using the bike to get to and from campus (only 3 miles away), and maybe pick up groceries on the weekends.

Its called Raleigh Nova 5 speed on Craigslist. Hopefully it's as nice in person as the pictures online show!

Also, any advice for beginner cyclists in general?

>>1051202
this is not a "nice" bike, but for your 3 mile ride to school it should be fine. Make sure it fits you properly and nothing is obviously loose or jammed. Discard the gel saddle cover thing immediately, maybe rotate the handle bars forward a bit so they are more level to the ground.

Learn some basic maintenance. Like how to change a tire/fix a flat, adjust your brakes. Get a spare tube, some lube, maybe a mini tool. If you will be riding in the dark get a red light for the back and white light for the front.

Take it easy and enjoy the ride.

>>1051202
That's a low end bike but it will be fine for a first adult ride (for casual use) assuming you're around 5'6" (just estimating from the picture of the bike, though in this case it's not very easy to estimate the frame size just by looking). Looks like it might probably need new tires right away, so plan to spend at least $50 in addition to the upfront cost of the bike.

>>1051185
sounds like your rim is out of true. a common repair.

you can true it yourself with the correct sized spoke wrench and a lot of time and patience. it's tricky the first time you try it. or your local shop can do it, it shouldn't cost too much. maybe something like $20 to $50.

>>1051203
>>1051204
Thanks for the honest advice, I appreciate it.

>>1051202
I mean, what the other guys said is true, but you should be able to get a way better bike on CL for only a little bit more or even the same price if you wait for a better listing. There's usually a /bbg/ bike buy general up, where anons help you. check the catalog.

>>1051205
$50 for truing a wheel? What the heck

>>1051151
No jelly needed thankfully

>>1051258
I don't know this for a fact, but I would assume that the labor charges in a bike shop are more expensive in places like California and NYC to match the higher cost of living in those places.

Any working replacement for the cassette lockring tool?

>>1051301
No

>>1051301
hammer and a chisel and hope for the best

Anyone in Austin? Have an lbs recommendation for buying and general service?

Last year I bought a Merida Big Nine 500 as my first 'real' mountainbike. It's a recreational hardtail leaning towards XC. I now want something slacker and more trail bike. Can I make any changes to this effect or do I need a new bike?

>>1051393
It looks like some versions of that model have a tapered headtube, if so and it has a straight steerer fork you can get an angled headset and drop the head angle by something like one degree.

You can also put a longer fork on it or a headset with more stack, you'll slacken it out by about 1 degree for every 20mm (bear in mind that a 20mm longer travel fork won't be a full 20mm longer if you run the same percentage of sag, and also fork length can vary even with the same amount of travel and sag). This has the disadvantage of raising up the bottom bracket and also slackening the seat tube angle. To get the bottom bracket back down you could fit smaller wheels (26" or 27.5") but by that point it may be worth considering just replacing the whole bike.

>>1051397

Thanks for that. I might give the angled headset a go and throw on some wider bars in the first instance.

It may work, and it may not, but it won't bust the bank.

>>1051403
If you go with wider bars get a shorter stem too for a more aggressive position. A dropper post would also help a lot for riding rougher stuff.

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Are custom made steel frames worth the investment? I really like the way they look, but I'm afraid a new custom steel bike will weight more than my current 22 pound aluminium road bike.

>>1051405
Really depends - if you want features you can't find on a production model, or your particular bodily proportions mean that standard frame don't allow you to fit them without compromises, then yes a custom frame can be worth the cost. And if having a light bike for racing is critical for you (and you're willing to pay for it) there are fancy steel frames that are within 500g the weight of top-end carbon:
http://stories.worldsteel.org/innovation/steel-returns-to-professional-cycling/

The only disadvantage of getting a custom frame is cost. Whether it's worth the cost is entirely a personal matter.

To give you an example, personally, I don't think I will ever buy a custom bike - I'm 5'11 and have very average arm and length lengths, so there are no shortage of frames that will fit me well for any kind of riding I might want to do.

>>1051407
*arm and leg

>>1051407
Well, shit. The ones I'm looking at are around 2.0 kilograms for the whole frameset, including the fork. I do have some very weird proportions. I'm 5'6" with short stocky legs and long arms. Also, I could have it done by some local framebuiler for around 500 USD or 600 USD with Columbus tubing, which is the same price as a carbon frame from AliExpress.

>>1051405
>I really like the way they look, but I'm afraid a new custom steel bike will weight more than my current 22 pound aluminium road bike.
Not if you share your weight-weenie worries with the builder before hand. There are local frame builders here who work in steel and routinely put out frames that build up to 16lb bikes.

Why do bike seats have holes in them?

>>1051417
Saddle cutouts exist to keep pressure off the genitals, they're especially useful for women, but some men like them too. Whether you should use a saddle with or without a cutout depends entirely on your personal shape, riding posture, and preferences.

Dickhead college student turned right without signalling and clipped me (was going straight, in the bike lane). And then the other drivers all started telling me I had to apologize to him. Fuck me, that pissed me off. Anything happened to you guys recently?

>>1051417
>>1051420

Yep. I personally find cutout saddles feel wierd but for two of my friends(both dudes) it was a night and day difference in comfort. Try it out, see which feels better to you.

>>1051426
I actually bought one earlier just because the seat that came with my bike was the wrong color to match everything else I added.
It's pretty comfy but it's mostly because of how narrow the seat it

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lost my 105 11v rear derailleur cable anchor bolt.
what should i get, is the original spare part even available? im from a middle sized country, south america, gonna go ask stores tomorrow.
are these things common? universal?

thanks!

>>1051432
not a big deal - that's a pretty common part used on many other models.

>>1051407
>And if having a light bike for racing is critical for you (and you're willing to pay for it) there are fancy steel frames that are within 500g the weight of top-end carbon:

Aren't those frames extremely noodly, though?

Any working replacement for the chain whip?
Someone used gorilla strength to lock my cassette.

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should I buy a gravel bike. I already own a road bike but I really want something that can go more places

I also own a fat bike for the winter but to be honest they're really dumb and I kind of regret it after one winter season

I'm looking at this verenti substance 105, a wiggle bike. Only real negative is no thru axle

Often when I shift up while on the big chainring my chain drops. What could be the cause of this? Chain is proper lenght

>>1051482
I'd get a rigid MTB instead.

>>1051485
too late bought

>>1051476
A length of scrap chain and some vice grips.

>>1051476
You can also just use an old chain, wrap one end around the cassette and the other around the rim. Make sure to put something soft between the chain and rim though.

>>1051491
There's no need to hold the rim.

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I'm building a 90s rigid mtb up for bikepacking and everthing is fine and dandy, except for the stupid 26.8 seatpost.

should I get a propper 26,8 one or is 25,4 with an adapter a viable solution.

currently I'm running a cheap 25,4 that I tape wraped to fit.
it got a littel loose during heavy rain latley so this is not a ideal solution.

on another note, I kind of managed to bend the seatpost is that because I used a cheap m wave seatpost or is it because I did the shoddy tape solution ?

>>1051494
If 26.8 is difficult to get hold of then just use a shim, there's nothing wrong with doing so for such a small difference. If you know someone with a lathe you could also get a larger one turned down, bonus points if you only do so only to the length needed so you have a built in depth stop.

>>1051494
Do you really want to tour on a nigger-rigged seatpost?
And yes, of course it bent due to your "solution"

Can someone recommend me a cheap folding bike that's easy to carry?

I got a made in china Dahon bike that doesn't fold all the way, heavy as shit and almost impossible to carry, I want to sell it then get a new one.

Any model I can carry in one hand?

>>1051455
I have not had the pleasure of riding such a machine, but the article linked above about their use in racing would certainly suggest otherwise.

>>1051476
Use a cheater bar to give yourself more leverage on the lockring tool and/or the chainwhip you're currently using.

>>1051482
Have you tried putting tires as wide as possible on your current road bike? Try that first, running high quality wider tires allows even road race machines to go well on some pretty rough stuff. Remember that cyclocross tires are typically 35mm, and a CX bike so equipped can handle technical MTB trails, there's even a sick video on YT of a guy riding a CX bike down a downhill course.

>>1051483
when you shift to a higher gear you briefly introduce slack into the chain, it could be that you have a mismatch in the wear on the chain and big chainring, so the links don't engage fully and the chain is easily knocked off.

>>1051494
yeah you fucked up.

Yes, you could shim your 25.4 post, but in this case that's too large of a difference to be taken up by DIY beercan shims, so since you'd need to find a properly machined bit (they do exist, not especially unusual) but 26.8 posts aren't hard to find or expensive, so there's no excuse for not running the right size.

>>1051482
>>1051486
you did fine, it'll be a pretty fun machine for fire roads and stuff like that

>>1051503
Makes sense, it's an old chain. Thanks.

>>1051488
>>1051491
>>1051503
Tried using scrap chain but the gorilla strength was too much for me anyway. Gave up and went to LBS, the guy did it for free so works for me.
Thanks anyway.


Update to (linking only initial post)
>>1050598
I have successfully replaced the cassette and this has 100% resolved the jumping problem. Though only had one short test ride so far, but before replacing the issue would make itself noticeable by now.
So indeed it appears the serviceman dun goofed and gave me a defective/old/used/flawed cassette.

Nevertheless, you all deserve a very big THANK YOU for all the help.
Troubleshooting alone would take forever considering my assumption that the cassette was OK because it was newly replaced.

You're all great people.

>>1051493
Well you gotta hold the chain with something and the rim is right there

>>1051529
I don't even see how that would work. I thought your intention was to secure the cassette to the rim for some reason.

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>>1051532
Kind of like this, one end of the chain wraps around the cassette, and you wrap the other end around the rim a couple of times. In this particular image the guy is using zip ties to secure the chain to the rim, but you can just loop the chain itself around the rim a couple of times and it'll hold just fine. Just gotta be careful not to fuck up the rim, hence putting something soft and thick enough between the chain and the rim.

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>>1051536
In any case, while I was looking for that image, I found this other technique which seems like a much better option.

>>1050716
Tektro do a dual privot caliper suitable for vintage bike frames, can't remember the model number but I'm sure with a bit of searching you will find it.

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buying new bike as my motorbike license got suspended for 3 months Q_Q
top is a Raceline Giro $200
bot is some Teschner Road Bike $300

what get /n/?

> using a crank puller
> it pulls the aluminum threads out of the crank before the crank even budges on the bb axle

Fuck, what do?

>>1051572
One of those bikes appears to be for tall people.
The other appears to be for short people.

Top one looks more appealing to me but it's gonna depends on your height squid boy

>>1051581
http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/948385-stripped-crank-extractor-removal-technique.html

>>1051590

Thanks, that's interesting. I haven't actually taken the bottom bracket out before, but I think I could try it.

I'm a dumb lazy bastard so I'll try the "just pedal it" method from further down in the comments first.

>>1051482
mane, it's u posting on ruski /n/ 2ch?

>>1051589
I ended up buying the black one
I'm 6ft
Did i fug up?

>>1051621
Get some pedals on it, put the seat up and see how high it needs to be for your legs to be just about extended at the bottom. Look up a basic bike fitting guide.

When I roll my bike forward, the pedals also rotating forward as if I were pedaling. What is this a symptom of? Time for a new chain?

>>1051635
>What is this a symptom of?
Hipsterism. Possibly a seized freehub body, but most likely hipsterism. In the unlikely event that it is not hipsterism you need a new body that exactly matches your rear wheel hub model. You also need a cassette tool, a chain whip and likely a 10 mm hex key. It can turn out more expensive to service a (probably soon worn through in other ways too) rear hub than buying a cheap, new, brand name rear wheel. Especially if the body is hard to source.
If it is hipsterism the fix is much cheaper - congratulations! - and you only need a few feet of rope and an unstable stool.

>>1051637
I don't have a fixie nor do I feel like taking the hub apart. I'll take it into the shop and hope it doesn't cost me too much.

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so...
putting p clamps on a carbon cyclocross fork is a dumb idea right ?
my common sense warns me but my the chance to get one real cheap is tempting me.

>>1051656
Yes

What bike guides does /n/ have?

Also preferred manufacturer for a 90s mtb?

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The chain on my ghetto single speed conversion beater has started skipping badly. Chainring and cog don't look very worn and the chain is about 25.5 cm per ten links. Been too lazy to lubricate the chain and it's pretty crusty.

The chain is pretty loose. I've been too cheap and lazy to get one of those stupid chain tensioners (pic related). I've eliminated the possibility of the chain coming off by other means.

Does a chain tensioner help with skipping? Or could lack of lubrication be a/the cause? Are 3x8 drivetrain components just so shit for single speed that they're fucked in six months?

(Yes, I know that one solution is to tweak with different size rear cogs and shit. I did take that into account when converting the drivetrain)

>>1051669
Trek, KHS, Cannondale, Fuji, Nashbar, REI Novara, GT, Nishiki, Univega, Miyata, and a few Schwinn models, too. I believe Mongoose made some good stuff before selling out to the Wally World market.
(I cheated & included some '80s Japanese mfrs. to expand the scope)

>>1051669
KLEIN

>>1051671
Both
Also, does your frame have horizontal dropouts? Might just be a matter of slidimg the wheel a bit back
Oh and there's no excuse for not lubing your chain, takes 10 seconds ffs. Even brushing your teeth is more of a hassle

so, /n/, i do not quite understand the technical aspects of a bike. currently i have a frejus '61 italian road bike. unfortunately, it has sew up tires which have been punctured. i believe they're 27"x1.25". i'm not sure i should replace the tires or just sell it and get a newer, lighter bike. i've seen them sell for 1,000+ on ebay. in the case that i do sell it, i would like to keep around $200. as far as the uses i'd have for the new bike, i'd like for it to be able to handle city roads as well as less developed, more rural areas. i don't really care much about aesthetics. i just would like something functional above all else.

>>1051671
If you're running a ghetto SS hack on a bike without a method of tensioning the chain and the chain is "loose", as you say, that's absolutely why the chain is skipping. Also clean and lube your fucking crusty chain, it doesn't take much time.

My friend gave me an old bike (my first bike).

When I pedal, the chains don't seem to move the freewhee gear things attached to the back wheell, so pedaling doesn't move me forward.

Is the problem an easy fix? Do I just need to clean the freewheel with wd40 or something?

>>1051712
If it has a cassette it could be the pawls in the freehub are stuck, you could disassemble it and give it a clean and that should fix it. If it's a freewheel you probably can't disassemble it but spraying some penetrating fluid into it might free it up. If not then just buy a new freewheel.

>>1051687
Thank you

It's got vertical dropouts.

I know I've brought great shame to my family by failing to lube the chain. In my defense the winters here are cold and I'm always in a hurry when going for the bike and I've only got this useless fair weather cyclist dry lube that smells like apple juice and and...

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This is an issue that just popped up today with my rear brake line; whenever I snap the brakes, this thing pops out; the brakes still work when it happens but it seems like a safety issue. If I apply the brakes gradually like I usually do, there's no issue, but if there was ever a reason I had to come to an immediate stop it could be a problem. Only the rear brake line does this, not the front.

Pic related, took a video and converted it to a gif

>>1051717
The arms of the brake aren't retracting fast enough. If they're Vs or cantis you can adjust the springs, if they're caliper brakes you'll need to remove the spring and bend it to add more tension. It could also be friction in the pivots so you could try cleaning and lubing them.

>>1051717
Clean and lube the pivots on the brake, the pivots on the brake lever, and try getting lube into the housing where the cable enters. Work the lube in.

Probably you really need to replace the cable and housing but you can see if cleaning and lining brings it back to life

>>1051715
>single speed conversion
>vertical dropouts
>no chain tensioner
Absolute madman

>>1051720
>>1051727
Thanks, I fixed it!

is this a good cheap beater bike? https://newhaven.craigslist.org/bik/5957995115.html

>>1051820
Yes

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>minimum inner rim width 17mm
>only have 15mm rims

is this ok? its for trail riding

>>1051848
2mm won't make much difference. Most rim width recommendations are conservative and actual tyre widths aren't very accurate (usually less than advertised).

>>1051848
You're planning on using 15mm wide rims for trail riding???

What tires? What rim diameter?

I had an old mismatched set of 26" Mavic Crossmax rims, 17mm up front and 19mm in the rear. Paired with a 2.35" tire in the front and a 2.2" in the rear was /terrible/. I had to run them at uncomfortably high pressure to keep the tires from folding over in the turns.

>>1051853
15mm inner width with 700x32 tires.

my bike (still pretty much stock): http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10053_10052_574097_-1___

literally cant find any info about these rims. about to buy these

http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10053_10052_533230_-1___204727

>>1051855
You should be just fine with a 700x32 on a 15mm rim.

You do know those wheels you linked to aren't going to fit on that bike, right?

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>>1051857
because of the spacing? buying shit for bikes is too hard.

>>1051859
Those are 26" wheels, you want 700c.

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>>1051857
and i want to put 700x40s on my 15mm rims. i put one tire on and it seems fine but i havent ridden yet and i dont want to die

>>1051859
1) Those are 26" (559mm ETRTO) rims. The wheels your bike has are larger 700C (622mm ETRTO) rims. The rim brakes on your bike won't reach the smaller 26" rims.

2) Your bike has 130mm rear dropout spacing (the width of the rear hub). This is typical spacing for a modern roadbike. The 26" wheelset you linked to has a 135mm wide rear hub, which is typical for mountain bikes.

Just buy the 700x32 tires; they'll work fine on the wheels you have.

>>1051863
>>1051864
And 700x40 will still work fine on your 15mm rims.

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>>1051865
thanks for the help, friend

Any frame builders out there, or anyone with knowledge of frames?

My Trek Pilot 2.1, after 9 years and 11 months, developed a crack on the non-drive side of the weld at the seat tube/bottom bracket junction. Trek is replacing the frameset with a Domane 2.0 frameset.

Here's my question: How much would that weld being compromised, affect the stiffness of the rear triangle, and therefore power transfer from the pedals to the rear wheel?

Thanks in advance for your educated input.

>>1051874
Minimally. Lance won Tdf stage with a cracked chain stay. When it begins to affect power transfer drastically, it will be because it has severed.

Anyone know how much easier it is to ride uphill after weight loss? I think I can take 120 pounds off of my body weight in a few years and I hope I don't have to suffer as much when I'm that much lighter

>>1051888
I just put in my weight putting out 210 watts (3w/kg, I'm fred) up a 5% incline gives me 15.3 km/h.

Add on 120 pounds (total 124 kg) and you're now going up the same hill at 9.8 km/h.

So up a moderate incline if you lose that weight you will literally be 50% faster, and that's not accounting for the likely power gain you'd make in the same period.

Try playing with http://bikecalculator.com/ if you're interested.

Do you guys use an action camera? Which one would you recommend?

I bought a second hand wheelset. The seller said that the rims are Stan's Arch. I looked into it and there seemed to exist rims called Arch MK3 and Arch EX. I found no rim called just Arch, do they still exist? The wheelset is oldish, 26" with hope pro 2 evo hubs.

Also there were no stickers on the rims.

>>1051898
will be Arch mk1 or 2, then. Both are fine.
The Arch ex is a wider, tougher version..

>>1051884
Thanks for the input, but that's more qualitative than quantitative.

>>1051888
>Anyone know how much easier it is to ride uphill after weight loss?
You can simulate the reverse: put on a twenty pound backpack on and cycle (or hell, walk) up a hill. Now, imagine that you're actually carrying six of those rather than one. That's how much worse than baseline your current weight situation is.

Yes, the difference will be tremendous.

>>1051820
it's a great older bike

unfortunately it is for extreme manlets. you can see the headtube (the frame tube that the stem and fork fit into) is so small that the toptube and downtube are touching.

and sure enough, the poster says it is a 20 inch frame, which is like 51 cm.

it fits a person about 5'2". if that's you, snap this bike up, its a good deal. if not, you gotta let this deal pass you on by and wait for the next one.

>>1052002
>51cm
>fits a person about 5'2"
More like 5'8"

>>1052005
you're insane. forget the numbers, did you even look at the bike? it's for a midget.

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Is it worth buying a derailleur alignment gauge? Noticed my hanger is slightly bent but replaced with a spare from my kit. Replacement hangers seem a bit pricey.

>>1052009

I did and I've used it a few times, but it's really limited use if you don't bash your bike a lot. Two shop trips will probably cost more than a decent off-brand one though.

>>1052009
It's not something you'll use often, but it's a tool that will last you forever and will come very handy when needed. You can't really eyeball a hanger alignment.
I've been meaning to get one myself.

>>1052009
>Is it worth buying a derailleur alignment gauge?
Yes.
>Replacement hangers seem a bit pricey.
Replaceable hangers are made from mild cheese to protect the frame. Unfortunately they're also very brittle, and if they've been bent far out of shape they'll crack or snap when you try to realign them. They may also be so weakened by several small realignments that they're simply too soft to keep using as they go out of shape far too easily.

There's also the problem that the spare hanger are rarely "straight" when new. They're always a little off because of microscopic variance in dropout geometry and even paint coat thickness. And of course the hanger itself. A new hanger should always be checked and aligned when first mounted.

tl;dr: You need both the tool and a few extra spare hangers. One doesn't replace the other.
But if you can only afford one, buy the gauge. If you can't afford either you can screw the axle of a QR rear wheel into the hanger and try to get the rims as close to parallel as you can, from all angles. It will be significantly harder and rarely end up as well shifting, but if it's Himalayan fixing-dt-shifter-with-yak-butter-and-braking-by-pulling-on-a-piece-of-paracord touring...

>>1052025
>you can screw the axle of a QR rear wheel into the hanger and try to get the rims as close to parallel as you can, from all angles.
Wow, I just tried this technique and while far from accurate it's pretty damn helpful. Used a zip tie around the rim to check for distance on different points

>>1052038
...in fact I think I'll make a DIY hanger alignment gauge with a spare rear hub I have lying around. Shouldn't be too hard

At what kind of body fat should I be worried about kidney failure? That's just the extreme low end/thin athletes, right? Like 140, 150?

>>1052087
> Like 140, 150?
Pounds? That's not super light for a man of average height.

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what is this piece of the v brake called

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>>1051896
blease resbond :DDD

>>1052123
Mounting bolt, or pivot mount
...if that's what I think it is

>>1052123
Probably pivot bushing.

hey /n/

is there a realiable way to check the geometry of my old diamondback ascend ?

>>1052227
you could measure it with a tape measure?

>>1052235

what do I do about the angles ?
my margin of errors is super small 1 degree of headtube angle difference changes the handling

>>1052246
>how do i measure angles
have you taken highschool trig?

>>1052250

you might be right.

I hate stuff like that, some part of my brain allways screams that this is impossible because I will messure incorrect in some way.

...I love cad work.

>>1052254
>i love cad work
cad it up then, you can add in the welds as pivot joints, then add in edge lengths, and autocad can give you the angles automatically

>>1052257
your right , I guess I'll do that

>>1052246
Either get a digital angle gauge or use an app on your phone (assuming it has flat sides), I use Clinometer on Android. Put the bike on a flat surface (doesn't need to be level) and measure the angle of the ground, put the gauge/phone on the headtube (or stanchion if it's a suspension fork, that's what I do as my headtube isn't flat) and +/- the ground angle from that. Bonuses of measuring it yourself is you can see how the angle changes under suspension sag (if you have any) and even see how stuff like tyre size affects the angle (if you run different sizes front and rear).

how much wind is too much?

i bike to work sometimes, it's 10 miles one way. tomorrow morning i'd be riding into a 18mph headwind and i don't feel like doing it and want to drive instead. am i a pussy?

>>1052379
>18mph headwind
i would nope the fuck out of that, but its really up to you

>>1052379
Oh don't be a sissy, it's only 10 miles.

What's a good bike for riding on shitty poorly maintained midwestern roads? My new commute will likely involve potholes and derelict train tracks.

>>1052407

9 0 S R I G I D M T B

>>1052408
Is this a meme or something?

>>1052254
>>1052227

>Loves CAD work
>Asks how to measure a fucking bicycle frame on a japanese underwater basket weaving and masturbation forum

CAD designers who don't know how to interact with the real world are how shite designs make it into production.

>>1052408
With 26x2.3 Compass Rat Trap Pass slicks

>>1052409
... you're new here, huh?

>>1052409
It's a good meme.

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>>1052427
>their face when each individual tyre costs more than the bike did

>>1052409

it's the truth

>>1052409

Reasons for:
frame is durable as fuck
26" wheels are(in theory) more durable than larger rims
suspension is absolutely unnecessary in this case
first and second generation mountain bikes are really undervalued right now, and regularly sell for under a 100 in rideable condition(minus tires, which are usually cracked from disuse)
Their gearing tends to be spot on for almost anything you need commuting-wise(44/34/22 triple)
Except for the high end racing frames(Bonty, Bianchi Grizzly, Parkpre Team and Pro) most 90s rigid mtbs have braze-ons for fenders and racks front and rear. It's super easy to outfit your new bike to carry your shit to and from work/school without having to rely on a backpack.

Against:
Geometry can be a crapshoot. Framemaking for MTBs in the early 90s was like the wild west, people did weirdass shit and hoped it turned out alright
Slow
Heavy
probably has cantilevers on it, shit tier brakes

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I wanna tubeles some non tubless mtb rims.

the rims are 19mm internal width.

should I get some standart tubless tape or something like the notubes rimstrip ?

also, if tape, what width ?

>>1052442
Spot on with most of this, except:
>Geometry can be a crapshoot. Framemaking for MTBs in the early 90s was like the wild west, people did weirdass shit and hoped it turned out alright
Christ, it's not like bikes were something weird and wild and new in the 90s.

Most of the weird stuff in the MTB world shook out in the 80's; rare and unique bikes aside the vast majority of 90's MTBs will have similar geo.

>probably has cantilevers on it, shit tier brakes
Only if you're shit at setting brakes up. The 1st gen XTR cantis are still some of the finest rim brakes I've ever had the pleasure of using.

>>1052446
How many 90srigidmtbswithslicks are actually gonna come with top of the line componentry like that, and failing that is that something you can actually still buy?

Anyone else push their thighs down with their hands when riding no-handed? Seems to make pedaling noticeably easier for the leg muscles while not really tiring out your arms (though I haven't done it for extended stretches for obvious reasons).

>>1052447
Avid, Tektro, & Paul offer some perfectly cromulent cantilever brakes, friend

>>1052511
I don't ride no-handed. Putting so much weight on your butt is not a great idea.

Getting my first bike. What's everyone's opinion on the cadent 3 in blue?? Had 8 speed and hydrolic disc brakes.

>>1052407
>>1052409
90s rigid mtb with slicks is a meme, but its grounded in reality
they're really reliable, tough bikes that you can get for pretty cheap and will handle the shittiest roads you can throw at them and will do decently on gravel or dirt as well

>>1052523
>>1052447
the dia-comp stuff on my 90s rigid has worked flawlessly for me, its just a pita to get the brake pads adjusted well

>>1052530
disc brakes aren't really worth the cost imo
looks like an ok bike overall though

>>1052528
have you tried not being fat

What's the best way to get rid of a squeaky mechanical rear disc brake?

>>1052656
Is the squeak coming from the caliper (i.e. it does it when you pull the lever, even when you're not moving) or is it caused by the brake actually being applied and the friction on the disc?

What are /n/'s favorite cycling underwear/padded liners

>>1052557
That has nothing to do with it, you're still putting the percentage of weight that would normally go on your upper body on your butt

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>>1052669
>would normally go on your upper body
You what?

>>1052670
You know, on your hands, arms, shoulders and shit

>>1052679
I was making a joke.

There shouldn't be a huge amount of weight on your hands and unless you are a fat ass all of the weight being on your ass shouldn't be a problem, especially not for short periods (you ain't gonna be riding no handed for 30 minutes).

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>>1050567

I have a modern Trek carbon fiber bike, and it needs a decent cleaning. Specifically I want to wipe away the grease from the chain, and other components that gets all over places.
What is safe to use?

I normally go over with just a wet terry cotton towel, and I used Simple Green around oily areas, but it doesnt work well. Is non-chlorinated brake clean safe to use on CF? If I wipe off quickly, and dilute any leftovers with soapy water?

I got a bunch of chain grease around the crank, and the rear derailleur is dirty. Anytime I load my bike inside the car it leaves grease marks.

What is safe to clean with that gets the job done?

>>1052706
Is the carbon bare? Chances are, even if it's not painted, it has some sort of clear coating. I can't imagine the bike getting covered in anything that can't be removed with soap and water and a good scrubbing with a brush.

>>1052707
its not just the CF, its the plastic parts, and derailuer and shit. non-chlorinated is safe on most plastics, and it instantly dissolves grease. i want to quickly remove it, and not spend time soaking, and scrubbing.

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backtire is mounted backwards right?
not that it matters im just ntarded

>>1052704
I still like to avoid it as much as possible. I do however do it for short periods to stretch my back/arms though.

>>1052762
looks backwards, but in this case it doesn't matter at all because the pattern on that tire is strictly decorative.

So my bike is fucked up and I don't know how to replace the part with the correct stuff.

>Riding home from work after not riding for months
>Pedal starts to rotate funny
>turns out the crank arm is stripped out
>ride home because I'm miles away
>Strips worse
>Pedal falls out 2 miles from home
>get home
>Crank arm with the spider is completely stripped out

Okay then. I've got a MegaExo BB but I don't know what chainset I've got other than it being FSA as footrub has wiped the model off.

I might as well get a new chainset as it's old anyway.

Don't necessarily want FSA though. What do?

>>1052795
>>1052795
Depending on your particular crankset it might be an option to repair the damage pedal threads with a helicoil insert, which would be considerably cheaper than replacing the cranks outright. In my experience a majority of bike shops stock helicoils and can do that repair. If you do want to replace the cranks without changing the bottom bracket, FSA MegaExo and Shimano Hollowtech2 cranksets/bottom brackets have the same dimensions and are interchangable, so you could swap in a Shimano HT2 crankset of your choice without changing anything else.

>>1052812
cheers, laddo.

>>1052709

use break cleaner.
the non chlorinated one is the proper way, the other one works also.

>>1052857
>use break cleaner
what if it brakes the garbon?

>>1052870
If anything, it will lubricate it, causing less drag and making you go faster

>>1052878
>is too illierate to understand the joke
self-kill plox

>>1052658
The squeak occurs after harder and longer use of the brake (half or more squeezed and holding it during a 10-15 meter long deceleration). It only happens while the bike is in motion.

>>1052908
Is it a mountainbike? It could be moisture boiling off of the pads. It could also be that your pads have lightly glazed over. Try sanding them lightly with very fine paper. Some calipers/pads always tooot a bit. Get used to it, or get new pads/rotors/calipers.

>>1052908
Sounds like pad contamination. I recently had the same problem, the brake was silent under light braking but as I braked harder it would squeal. I tried sanding the pad and disc and holding the pad over a flame to burn off any contaminates but in the end I had to fit new pads.

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I want to get some secure storage for my bicycle for things like a small pump, patch kit, combination wrench, and maybe a tiny first aid kit. However, all the storage solutions big enough for all that seem to be made of flimsy plastic that wouldn't help against even the most half-hearted assault.

Has anyone ever just bought a big steel lockbox of some sort and bolted it to the pannier mount somehow? I was thinking of just doing that. Is that a stupid idea? I just don't have the room to carry all that around with me, but anything on a bike that isn't locked down in my city gets stolen. Thoughts?

>>1052941
just get a saddle bag that'll fit all that and throw it in your backpack when you get off the bike, or get a pannier that has backpack straps

either that or move somewhere with no "cultural enrichment"

>>1052941
I have seen tool boxes with a lock latch used for this purpose. Just semi permanently mount them to your rack.

Why is riding without a helmet so much more fun?

>>1052959
Feeling of the wind in your hair is nice in contrast to the awkward muggy feeling of having a helmet on, I guess?

However, I've seen broken open skulls with the brain sloughing out like egg yolk too many times to want to enjoy that windy feeling any other time than when I've accidentally forgotten my helmet.

>>1052959
Gets the adrenaline pumping from knowing it could be your last ride. Sometimes I even get a stiffy.

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Is it worth it to spring for a hub dynamo?

>>1052995
>dynamo cost
they cost more than they seem to since you have to rebuild the wheel entirely and sometimes it can be hard to find a dynamo hub that matches the spoke pattern your rim expects, so you have to replace the whole wheel
>worth it
imo, no not worth, you can get amazing rechargable lights for pretty cheap now
dynamos don't really produce all that much power either, they can run ok lights or maybe trickle charge your cellphone, but you can do either with a battery
>battery power
i have a headlight that charges in 2 hours with my phone charger and lasts for 4 hours at 800 lumens

the only real use for dynamo hubs imo is if you're touring and want a way to keep your phone, bike lights and the battery for your lamp charged

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>>1052999
Interesting, interesting. Thanks, anon. I'll chew on this info.

>>1052999
>sometimes it can be hard to find a dynamo hub that matches the spoke pattern your rim expects, so you have to replace the whole wheel
wut

Dynamo hubs are readily available in 36, 32, 28, and 24 spoke. You can even get a SONDeluxe in 20 spoke if you want to. If you're trying to rebuild a sub-24 spoke weight weenie racing wheel with a dynamo hub, you're doing it wrong.

>you can get amazing rechargable lights for pretty cheap now
>dynamos don't really produce all that much power either, they can run ok lights or maybe trickle charge your cellphone, but you can do either with a battery
Gotta remember to charge your battery, tho. A dynamo hub will never, ever leave you in the dark. And a modern dynamo hub can pump out enough current to power a damn bright light.

H bar or trekking bar?

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>>1052995
Yes its worth it.

Li-ion are great, but 4h is not enough and only the highest end lights are bright enough to clearly illuminate your path in complete darkness. These lights are more expensive than a dynamo anyway. If you are commuting in the dark in morning and afternoon, dynamo is great.

How wide are your handlebars?

>>1053081
48 cm master race desu

Here's a fun one.. Last night I was riding my bike, noticed the shifter was a bit stiff.. shifted, and my back derailleur got thrown into my wheel, bending the mounting part of the frame... Why would that happen?

>>1053126
you'd probably bumped your rear derailer into something without realizing it, which wasn't enough to throw the shifting off, but it did bend the hanger so the next time you went you use your lowest gear the derailer ended up in the wheel.

>>1053038
>if you're trying to rebuild a sub 24 spoke wheel with a dynamo you're doing it wrong
fair enough, but its still an extra consideration that goes into getting a dynamo
>dynamo will never leave you in the dark
this is true, but it really isn't hard to charge a light, if you can keep your phone charged you can keep a light charged just as easily
i still think that for a bike commuter or someone riding for fun, battery operated lights are more than enough and are much cheaper to buy and set up

dynamos are very very nice for touring though

What's a good seat for around ~$30?

>>1053056
i really like trekking bars personally, but its just personal preference
never tried a h bar, they look crazy though

>>1053131
i just got a wtb volt for $35, its pretty nice for road riding
what sort of riding do you do?
you'll want something that fits you well, so look for something that comes in multiple widths so you can find the one the same width as your sit bones

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>>1053131
What's a good saddle for you isn't an easy question to answer without knowing more about your riding posture or the width of your sitbones, but Velo saddles from Taiwan are well made and inexpensive, they have quite a few in your price range. I've had pic related, a $28 saddle on my main commuting bike for the past 6 or so years now and I have every expectation that it'll still be in use for another 6 years if not longer.

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How crazy would it be to buy this bike?

Also, how crazy would it be to take it on a 400 km, 7 day trip?

>>1053131
Charge Spoon

I have an XTR 8 speed drive train with a triple in the front. Would I be able to just stick a new crankset/chain ring on there to convert to a 1x8?

>>1053176
Yes. But your cranks probably aren't 104bcd so a narrow wide chainring (to keep the chain from dropping) might be hard to find so you might want to leave the front derailleur to be used as a chain guide.

>>1053160
It does have french standards so I would not buy. Replacement parts are hard to find

>>1053176
Yeah that'll work, you can either remove your inner and outer chainrings and keep the middle one if it's the right size or you can get a new one (in which case you may as well go with a narrow wide). There's no need to get new cranks. The problem with 1x8/9 is you're really limited on range (11-34 max) so only do it if you don't do much climbing.

>>1053183
That's a good point, if they're M950s then he's stuck with the middle ring he has. It seems like the other XTR crank from that era (M900) is 5 bolt so that'd be easier to get chainrings for. If they're not actually XTR and he was just referring to the shifters then they probably are 104.

>>1053131
>>1053146
Yeah WTB Volt or WTB Rocket are both cheap and available in a few widths. Two of my bikes have the Volt, the other two have the Rocket. Great seats.

>>1053185
Got it. I would suppose it could be even hard in western europe, so I'll pass. Thanks

>>1053160
its a decent old ten speed, but is gonna be a bitch to maintain

What's the difference between a gravel bike and a cyclocross bike? I just watched some youtube video about why a guy sold his gravel bike becaues his cyclocross bike is better but I have no idea what he's talking about.

>>1053241
A cyclocross bike is a bike specifically for racing cyclocross - through mud, sand, dismounting the bike over obstacles and shit like that. UCI mandates tyres no wider than 33mm, so they might have less clearance than a gravel bike.

Gravel bike is more casual and may be more practical, with rack/fender mounts and more relaxed geometry. Also don't be surprised if it's heavier than a cross bike (carbon gravel bikes do exist, I think, but are rare).

So it depends what you're after but for a pure all rounder, quiver-killer bike I'd personally choose Gravel.

I have a mtb with 26inch wheels and my friend just gave me a front suspension from a 29 inch because mine is shot

Would I be able to put the suspension on my bike and swap my 26 inch wheel on it?

>>1053268
If it's disc brake, a compatible axle, and the same steerer size then yes. It will be a tad longer than a 26" fork with the same travel and that will mean a slacker head and seat tube angle, higher bottom bracket, and longer wheelbase, which will all have an effect on handling. If it's free you may as well give it a go.

>>1053241

>>1053243 got the basics, but to expand on it:

A cyclocross bike is really a racing bike, for a very specific type of racing. They have high bottom brackets for jumping over obstacles, but for everyday use, the high BB makes them less stable and twitchy. The frames are stiffer, which makes for a rougher ride. They don't have many rack braze-ons (if any). They really only have clearance for 35-40mm tires; UCI-sanctioned events limit to 33mm tires so there's no need for more clearance - and good luck if you want fenders.

A gravel bike is sort of if you crossed a cyclocross bike with a road bike and added even more tire clearance: Low roadbike BB since you're not going to be hopping logs, slightly slacker steering geometry from a cyclocross bike for more stability off road, clearance for wiiide 45-50mm tires + fenders (or even something like a 29"x2.1" knobby).

There are definitely carbon frame, racing gravel bikes (Salsa Warbird and similar), but there are also plenty of frames meant for non-racers with rack and fender mounts. A great kind of bike to look into if you like all-day rides over mixed paved and unpaved surfaces.

>>1052909
How fine are we talking here?

>>1052911
It's a brand new bike, I got it 3 months ago.

>>1053278
Alright, yes it's disc both of them. But not sure of the axel specs

>>1053278
Ok it's the same steerer size. But I can't find what axle size the 29 is. But wouldn't I just be able to swap the axel from his 29 wheel over onto my 26 wheel if it came it that?
29 fork is Reba RL
26 fork is SR Suntour XCT

>>1053301
>>1053243
thanks! gravel bikes sound like a great all around bike for anyone who doesn't need a mtb, seems like they should be more popular

>>1053131

get a good fizik saddle from ebay.
look up what you need and if possible try them out.

I got a aliante for 20 € and recently bought a gobi for 30.

I know this is super subjectiv but the gobi is the most comfortable saddle I've ever ridden.
it's made for my ass !

>>1052870

I really won't

the carbon is painted just like any other material and I dont know why the break cleaner should attack carbon itself or the bonding agent ( are they still using epoxy resins ?).

also , hitting the dirty parts with brake cleaner and then wiping it off is a real quick thing to do, it's not like youre soaking it.

>>1053356
>>1052881

damn.

my back wheel is slipping from the dropout if I put really much pressure on there.
I use QRs.

how do I stop it ?
are there any "good" qr skewers ?

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>>1053358
QR skewers on vertical dropouts aren't such a great option. If I were you I'd get hex bolt ones.
In any case, this old style of QR skewers offer more clamp strenght than the "modern" ones you probably have.

>>1053359
*horizontal dropouts, sorry.

>>1053359

thanks , I had hexbolt ones on other bikes.
I'll get some for this one too

>>1053305
It doesn't need to be very fine, something like 180 grit would do. You're trying to remove the very top layer of the pad and any crap that's embedded in it.

>>1053307
The XCT uses a 9mm QR axle, so that's what your wheel will have. The Reba RL can come with a 9mm QR or a 15mm Maxle, if the one you got off your friend is the latter you'd like need a new wheel as I doubt a bike that comes stock with an XCT will have wheels with convertable hubs.

>>1053358
How are you putting pressure on it to cause it to slip? I've never had problems with a QR slipping out through normal use. If you just can't do it up tight enough by hand then you could try a bolt through skewer, just don't do it up too tight as you can snap the skewer or wreck the bearings in the hub.

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>>1053372
this is the wheel thats on the fork right now, so i guess its the 9mm QR?

also if it is to fit, how would it look with a 26" rim on a fork made for a 29? i couldnt find any pictures

>>1053377
Well the 15mm axle is also technically QR (doesn't need tools to remove). Can you not get your friend to check for you or even send you a photo?

I've never seen it personally. The top of a 26" tyre is roughly level with the inner diameter of a 29" rim (with a tyre mounted), so if you imagine the fork lowers being long enough to fit another rim and tyre between your current tyre and bridge of the fork. From the measurements I can find of those specific forks there will be roughly 5 inches difference in length uncompressed.

>>1053307
god dammit, the 29" fork is a tapered steerer, and my headtube is stright -_-

>>1053605
Sorry bud, you're shit out of luck then. If you're friend doesn't mind take the fork anyway and sell it and put the money towards buying another. It's a fairly decent fork and depending on the model year you could get $180 or more.

>>1053608
googled around and found a "cane creek ec44" headset which u can put in a 1-1/8 and make it a 1-1/2

>>1053664
made for stight headtubes to fit a tapered fork

>>1053664
>>1053665
That will probably be for fitting a straight steerer fork into a tapered frame. You can't put a tapered fork in a straight frame, it won't physically fit.

recommend a bike magazine for my fred card?

>>1053668
no sorry i did not explain it right, the new headset pops out the bottom of the headtube

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>>1053673

>>1053673
>>1053674
It is technically possible with some frames that run integrated headsets (not all I don't think, you still need clearance inside the headtube for the steerer). I didn't mention it for that reason, because I would have thought that a bike that comes stock with an XCT will most likely have an external headset, and because it would add even more length onto a fork that's already significantly longer than stock.

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>>1053675
it ascualy isnt much longer, the axles are in line with each other
ima try and fit it in and see if the headtube clears it in a bit

>>1053678
Perhaps I got the measurements wrong, I think I was comparing 100mm travel models but that Reba looks like it could be 80mm. Is that at full extension? I think that Reba is an air fork so if it's not pumped up it could be partly compressed.

>>1053680
it says 80mm on the side, i thought it was a 100mm aswell, how can i check if its fully extented

>>1053681
Well if you compress it and it springs back up then it's inflated and should go to full extension. If it doesn't and you don't have a shock pump you can also just pull it.

>>1053684
oh yah it comes back up, i rode it the other day on his bike :)

doing a new build and when putting on the fork i found out that the steer tube is really short and dosnt stick very much out of the headtube at all, not even enough to fill half of my stem, and thats with no specers at all...
how bad is that? would i maybe need a new fork with a longer steer tube?

>>1053723
You can get a lower stack stem and headset, could potentially give you 30-40mm extra if your current components are particularly tall. For reference the lowest stems are about 30mm, there are a few lower than that but they're harder to get hold of. The lowest stack 1/8 external cup headset I've seen is 22mm, internal headsets are going to vary less so you won't save as much length with those.

There's also sometimes the option of shortening your headtube, it's easiest (and thus cheapest) with one that takes external cups and has a constant diameter all the way through or a cup recess that extends further into the tube.

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Am I going to have to relace this or is this a legitimate lace pattern?

Notice that every pair of spokes is from the same side of the hub.

I'm noob, sorry.

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>>1053790

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>>1053791

>>1053790
It's not ideal but it's balanced so I suppose it's okay. In a way I guess the sideways forces are as if it had half the spoke count (17 if my counting is correct) where as the up and down is the full count, but the sideways is also spread over 17 pairs instead of 17 individual spokes. I dunno man, that's pretty fucking weird. Ride it and see if it stays true? Then if it goes wobbly relace it.

>>1053729
Ok i think shortening my head tube would be best.
The steer tube is 150mm and my head tube is 145mm so not much to use at all

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Are folding bikes a gimmick?

I ride my bike 10-15min to the station then take it on the train and ride it 20-25min to my workplace. It would be more convenient to have something more compact while I am on the train but dunno.

Patched a tube today (glue) and forgot to rough it, how badly am I going to die?

>>1053907
Is the train crowded or is having a normal bike on there inconvenient?

>>1053909
Usually it is fine but sometimes the cars don't have places for bikes to hang so it just ends up sitting in the middle of the vestibule and people have to navigate around it.
Never had anyone complain but it seems inelegant to me.

>>1053885
The headtube by itself is 145mm, or including the headset? If it's just the headtube you're going to need to remove like 50mm to make it work which is probably not possible nor safe to do. 150mm is very short for a steerer tube so you might just have to get a new fork (or rebuild the one you have with a longer steerer if that's more cost effective).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69OzE3KB2IY

What do you guys think about this?, professional riders tilt down their saddles to get more comfortable. Is the perfect leveled saddle a meme like knee over pedals?

>>1053939
> Is the perfect leveled saddle a meme like knee over pedals?
Yes. However it's reasonably close for a sensible bar height, pros have stupid amounts of drop because being aero and going faster is most important.

>>1053934
headtube only.. with headset its even more