So I goofed up pretty good and managed to wrap a branch into

>>1043933
There's a special tool for that. Your lbs will have it. Don't try to do it by eye as it needs to be absolutely spot on and you want to be bending on it as little as possible.

Do you have a question?

And why order a new RD? If the hanger is the only thing bent (which it should be; that's the point of them) then replacing it (and unbending the rim I guess) should be all that's necessary.

>>1043935
the derailleur itself is torqued up.

>>1043934
thank you

not too long ago something like that happened to my baiku (105 too) and while I managed to rebuild the derailleur i had to replace the hanger because it was pretty fucked, just saying but it still doesn't shift well, so to avoid headaches just replace both really because if the derrailleur is fucked too you can bend the hanger as much as you want, it will never be spot on and you'll waste a shit load of time scratching your head m8

>>1043933
You will need to have a LBS perform a rear hanger alignment. The rest is possible to do on your own; wheel true, readjusting low and high limits and cable tension.

>>1044113
>you can true a wheel by yourself
>but the hanger alignment must be one at your LBS
FUCK LOGIC

>>1044127
Park Tool rear hanger gauge: $80

Having a shop align your rear hanger and dial in your realigned derailleur: $25

Park tool multi spoke wrench: $8.

Tools needed to adjust your rear deraileur: common household Allen's and screwdrivers, free.

You tell me which one you want to do on your own and which one you want the shop to do. You ride bikes so I know you are poor.

>>1043933
The mech looks way worse than the frame. Steel is Real.