/BBQ/ - Bike buying questions 2k17.1

>>1043316
You should definitely switch bikes if it's the wrong size but I would give serious though to upgrading a bit too. Something like this ↓ is a hell of a lot more bike for not a whole lot more money.
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/EBPX58TI/planet-x-rt-58-v2-alloy-shimano-tiagra-road-bike

>>1043320

I have a Giant TCR with campag centaur that I use most of the time in good weather/weekend rides but Im just looking to replace my cheaper bike. I work away a lot and I dont wanna take my main bike away with me in a work van all the time. The bike I'm selling is more for that kind of thing and commuting etc. A beater bike if you will.

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Bought the Gravity Ave. D from bikesdirect on Friday
How fucked am I?

Decided to buy my first road bike, so wound up picking up a 2010 CAAD9 4 with a Tiagra triple from a LBS for $500. It seems to be mint. Did I do good?

>>1043335
Seems pretty good, just hope the triple winds up being right for your style of riding. If not, I don't know how difficult it would be the switch to 2x.

>>1043339
Since they were originally offered with a double, it shouldn't be a problem. LBS guy said it would take a wide range of gear options.

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>>1043330
>$399
>tourney
>bottom of the barrel *everything*
You got royally screwed. In the ass. And the worst part is that you probably knew it, but the lies and promise of THE DEAL OF A LIFETIME FOR YOU THE SMART AND ACTIVE CONSUMER drew you in like the instinct-driven untermensch that you are.

>but the wouldnt lie to my face
Yes. Yes, anon, they would. They do. That bike would never cost anywhere near $999. Not in a million years. That was a trick to make the $399 seem a bargain. The oldest in the book. And you fell for it, you sad fuck. You've been had. Willingly had. In the ass.

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>>1043343

>>1043341
>Since they were originally offered with a double, it shouldn't be a problem.
It's major problem. The chainset and shifters are generally the most expensive parts of the bike. You need both a new chainset, a new left shifter which probably means a new pair in practice, and a new front dérailleur. No short order, anon. Your LBS was talking about cassette choices.

That said you'll be fine with the triple and it's a nice bike. Enjoy.

>>1043344
It is people like you who keep those scammers afloat. I hate you as much as I hate them. Make amends; throw it away and buy a real bike. It doesn't even cost more money, as >>1043335 has shown.

>>1043345
>Your LBS was talking about cassette choices.
No, he wasn't. Fuck off.

>>1043330
I hope it works. 400$ sounds too much for that components.

>>1043349
Then he was giving you the (L)BS.

>>1043351
Possibly. Gear swaps are not something I have a lot of experience with. Never mind on the fucking off.

>>1043330
Just make sure to tighten and properly set up everything before riding. BS is famous for having terrible bike assembly.
It's a not so great bike for a not so great price, but it's a perfectly rideable bike. Tune it to your body and just go ride. There'll be plenty of time to upgrade.

>>1043353
>There'll be plenty of time to upgrade.
Upgrade meaning buying another bike. Don't sink any money into that one. Return it if you can, and pick up a discounted bike from your LBS or a proper online dealer. You'll be glad you did when you get to ride a real bike. It's an epiphany.

>>1043355
Nonsense. You can upgrade your groupset over time and eventually buy a nice frame and transfer them over. Stop demonizing cheap bikes. You're like the Linux autists who berate newbies for using Ubuntu. It only alienates people.

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>>1043330
>>1043343
>>1043350
>>1043353
Is this any better than a GMC Denali?

>>1043357
>You can upgrade your groupset over time and eventually buy a nice frame and transfer them over.
Yes, you _can_, but at significant cost over buying a whole bike in one go and with technical expertise and tools that GP doesn't have. There's a saying about throwing good money after bad.
I'm sorry someone ranted about your choice of distribution. It may or may not have been justified. However, that does not make all criticism pointless elitism.

>>1043359
The Gravity is "better" - but they're both crap not even worth what little they cost. But an entry level brand name bike and you'll have something that is decent for not a whole lot more. There's a reason the big brands don't even enter the market the Denali and similar crap is in. It's simply impossible to build worthwhile bikes. You can deliver so much more with so little extra pricetag that the value rating is abysmal.
Example: https://www.evanscycles.com/en-se/cannondale-synapse-alloy-claris-8-2016-road-bike-EV239413

Alternatively, if you're comfortable, check out what you can have the Felt/Verenti/Jamis/Pinnacle type bikes for online. They're often not much more expensive, but infinitely better put together than the BD or Walmart bike shaped objects. These are one and two group classes above the BD one, and majorly superior when it comes to finishing kit and overall build.
Example: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/verenti-technique-claris-2016/
Example: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/verenti-technique-sora-2016/

>>1043360
Sure it would be definitely cheaper, but upgrading your shit bike is a great way to learn about the mechanics of bikes, plus spending a bit of money now and then on a single part is not as painful as dropping a couple thousand in one go.

Looking for a new decent racebike in the 900 euro range. Is shimano 105 achievable? Any tips on bikes in the range?

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>>1043343
>alu frame
>wtb st23i wheels
>maxxis minion dhf+dhr2 27.5 tires
>sram gx drivetrain
>sram guide R brakes
>rf aeffect cranks
>ks lev integra 170mm post
>wtb volt comp saddle
>rs pike rtc3 solo air fork
>rs monarch rt3 debonair shock
>rf ride 35 (760x20mm) riser bar
>rf strafe grips
>fsa no.57e headset
>rf aeffect 35 (50mm) stem
>free assembly and full maintenance for a year

3280 out the door. how fukt am i

>>1043539
I bought last week one at decathlon for 750, full 105 except crankset that was just shimano. Other bikes at that price just tiagra 10speed. Rode yesterday the bike and it's pretty good, has even a UCI approved frame.

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>>1043540
Not at all. Looks like very nice kit. I ride the NX group and I can only imagine the GX to be just as nice. But why in the hell won't you tell us what frame it is? That's the most important part of the bike and 'alu frame' says fuck all. Material isn't important - geometry and build is.

As for the price - again, impossible to say if you overpaid or not without knowing what frame it is. I'm guessing it doesn't quite say Santa Cruz, but it better not be a catalogue frame either.

>>1043539
Not quite 105 but the only difference is one gear, and you get to own a Merckx!
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/eddy-merckx-blockhaus-67-tiagra-2016-road-bike/

Don't bother with the Decathlon crap. Groupset isn't everything. It isn't even most of it.

what do you guys think of the Specialized Sirrus Elite Disc? Commuter, 5ish miles hilly.

Carbon Fork
Hydrolic disk brakes
Sora drivechain

I was looking at an FX 4, but LBS has the Specialized with lifetime tuneups and free assembly. I like the discs (light rain occasionally) and 30mm over the 32mm trek, even though I'll probably put gators on it.

>>1043544
I love Decathlon, I buy all my sports stuff there but I wouldn't buy a bike from BTWIN - I used to have a decathlon bike and it was trash

>>1043559
Specialized makes good bikes, but they're always pricier than identical bikes with the same components. Still, if you can get a good deal, go for it. Lifetime tuneups sounds nice. Maybe get them to throw in a free fit also.

>>1043560
I don't know about their mtb bikes, but purchased a triban years ago and it was really good for its price, more than 4k km and not a single problem, except the saddle was shit and changed the crappy tyres. That's why I bought this new bike, I read it had decent reviews, it was extremely cheap (25% off), the warranty is good and I trusted the brand. If the frame doesn't broke and wheels are not bad, the rest is shimano, it should be good.

>>1043539
Canyon and Rose has tiagra bikes at 899eur, but have endurance frames.

>>1043564
oh yeah. fit is included. LBS is badass. dude answered a million questions even though I told him I probably won't buy 'till spring.

>>1043573
Did you test ride it? You should. And a couple other bikes also.

>>1043552
>1399 euro in belgium
thanks eddy

>>1043569
https://www.canyon.com/en/road/endurace/endurace-al-5-0.html

this bike looks great.

Other option:
https://www.12gobiking.nl/trek-emonda-alr-4-2016#

>>1043576
okay

>>1043580
>>1399 euro in belgium
>thanks eddy
Eh? Why buy in Belgium then and not from the shop I linked for 880€? They're still in the EU you know, the bongs.

>>1043588
They region-lock it, though. That page you link won't even show me a price, and it definitely won't ship to belgium. I have bought other things from wiggle, but they don't sell this particular bike to belgium

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>>1043613
Well, that sucks. Here's another contender then:
http://www.planetx.co.uk/c/q/bikes/road-bikes/rt-58-alloy

The Pro Carbon Tiagra is just barely within your budget too. The sub-kilo alloy frame Galiber is well outside your budget pre-build, but it looks very nice. The frameset is not hideously expensive.
I you can cannibalize some stuff from your old bike you can easily build a 105 5800 Galiber within budget.
http://www.planetx.co.uk/c/q/bikes/road-bikes/galibier

>>1043616
Thanks for the tips bro, probably going to go for the CANYON though

What do you guys think of this bike: https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bik/5964627150.html
Image is what I'm looking to replace (older model) since it is way too heavy and the flatbars aren't doing any favors for my wrist due to an injury. I'll be using it for commuting and recreational purposes. Is $900 a good price?

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>>1043630
Forgot picture.

>>1043630
Pretty expensive for what it is - a used cyclocross. Ridley has a fucked up geometry scaling and the small sizes tend to be very, very long for their size IIRC. You could do much worse for sure, but it's not the deal of the century either. You should be able to get a more than decent bike for that kind of money - new.

Just look a bit up the thread and you'll see cheap Tiagra-level road bikes. Go window shop at Wiggle and you'll soon find something that fits the bill.

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>>1043547
i saw the black one posted here a couple times with approximately the same build

I want to buy a hard tail.
I had a Norco Charger that was stolen and I still miss it.
I'll probably just get another one of those, but what bike would you get for a similar price (~$1500)

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>>1043647
The DeeDar.
https://factoryjackson.com/2016/06/30/on-one-deedar-first-ride/

Or perhaps a Kona Cinder Cone.

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>>1043631
for 950-ish dollars you can get a 2017 allez with that new sora group the kids seem to love.

i mean if you want the cx bike, get the cx bike. i'm just sayin' you could get a current-model-year basic roadie for that price.

>>1043657
>cable so tight it bent the frame

>>1043737
Those are laundry cables, you can use them to dry your clothes. I dislike that kind of cable-geo, looks terrible.

>>1043647
look at cotic, ragley, chromag, if you can get them, or a diamondback sync'r pro, raleigh tokul 4130.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013EYBRHI?ie=UTF8&tag=marketorder-20&camp=1789&linkCode=xm2&creativeASIN=B013EYBRHI

Would this make a good first tri bike?

>>1043657
I already have a roadie that I like

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When do you think the black rock cycles guy will order Monster Cross v6? I don't want pink or british racing green colorways

But I want the frame real bad

thoughts on surly? seem hipster but looks like a solid frame for rebuilding in decades

>>1043874
kinda overpriced for what they are
most of their stuff is basically a 90s mtb + hipster cred

>>1043878
word. i'm just wonderin if I need something beefier for hauling groceries 2 miles. pretty settled on the sirrus elite disc just hoping wald basket and rear folding panniers will hold up.

>>1043881
also i like the aggressiveness on the specialized as my town is basically a valley

>>1043881
>>1043884
>groceries
>2 miles
pretty much anything will do that just fine
you'll be fine with that, just make sure your rack is mounted properly and maybe get some more solid panniers like the ortlibs if you need to carry more stuff

>>1043885
so surly is more costco-tier long haul shopping?

>>1043886
>costco-tier long haul shopping
kek/10

if you really do have 50lbs of stuff strapped on to your bike and you plan to ride it for 5k miles like that then needs shift a bit, and a bike like the lht or a jamis aurora makes sense

however, most riding doesn't require anything like that, and for carrying some groceries back from the shop, all you really need is to have rack mounts or a backpack

if you were to gain/lose 20lbs, most bikes other than some garbon ones wouldn't really notice the difference. they're not gonna notice 20lbs of milk and canned sardines either

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>>1043881
>rear folding panniers

can confirm Wald folders are beasts. regularly fill them with $80 grocery runs without the slightest hint of wear, bending, fatigue--nothing like that.

be warned, though, they're heavy as hell. seriously, a set of them weighs over 11 pounds

What do you look for in a saddle?

>>1043889
do you leave that 10 folded/attached or do you only attach them when going shopping

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>>1043892
well, they bolt on. so yes, they stay on always.

>>1043890
Sorry, kind of a loaded question.

I should have said what do YOU look for in a saddle. It's for a roadie and I need some ideas.

>>1043890
Something that does not give you problems when using it. Test out a few figure out what design works for you.

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>>1043890
>>1043997
Shape/width to match your needs the only thing that really matters in a saddle, it has to fit you or else will be uncomfortable and encourage saddle sores.

When picking between two saddles that will both work equally well, then I look at saddle weight and color, because your bike looks nicer if the saddle and bartape are matched and coordinate with the rest of the colors on the bike.

>>1044001
I had one that was pretty much hard, except that right where the seat bones were it would flex.

I have bib shorts so I guess I'll look for that again.

what is the Thinkpad of bicycles?

>>1044019
Giant.
Kona is the Apple, Trek is Dell and Specialized is Razer.

Any "cost effective" Chain chainrings alternatives other than Shimano/SRAM brand ?

All "big" brands make new chainring shopping so expensive

>>1044022
>"""expensive"""
https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=187326;menu=1000,4,122;mid=0;pgc=0;orderby=2

>>1044024
sorry, I'm not talking about mtb should have specified that.

road chainrings are hella expensive

>>1044019
90s mtb with slicks.

>>1044027
what about 1x ?

>>1044026
It is a road chainring you imbecile.

>>1044030
There are 6/7 speed 90s mountainbikes that would make excellent commuters.

>>1044031
calm your autism, youre right, I made a mistake
btw is 110BCD a standard and interchangable ?

how does a giant fastroad srl 1 compare to a sirrus elite disc? are the tiagras worth $100 more?

>>1044027
can confirm, am programmer, have thinkpad, ride 90s rigid mtb

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Looking for a flat bar commuter/general purpose bike for road riding. I've been lugging around a knackered old mountain bike and I need an upgrade.

I've been looking at the Cotic Roadrat, It's expensive but I really like it. Thoughts?

Any other brands that do good flat bar set ups or other bikes I should check out?
Thanks

>>1044048
>90s mtn bike with slicks

>>1044048
90s rigid mtb with slicks

>>1044048
I'm guessing you're looking at the Alfine version like in that photo. It's a difficult one, the Alfine 11 would be preferred for the greater range but they don't offer that. One good thing about that frame is the horizontal dropouts which means you can gear the hub pretty low if you need to do some climbing, just don't expect to be going too fast coming back down the hill. Their site doesn't list the stock gearing with the Alfine, be prepared that you might need to spend a little bit more money on chainrings and cogs to get it how you want it.

>>1044048
9 0 s m t b w s l c k s

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>>1044048
90s

>>1044057
Thanks for the input Anon,
I just quickly grabbed that picture off Google, didn't realize it was the alfine one until you pointed it out

I've been looking at just the regularly geared one.

>>1044049
>>1044056
>>1044061
>>1044062
Yea alright point taken, should have lurked more before I asked, sorry.

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>>1044048
rigid

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>>1044048
mtb

>>1044037
I would say the giant one looks better.

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>>1043853
Dude, if you care about his bikes, why don't you read his website (and get the name right)? He's been planning the next order for months, red or matte black (pic related). "V5.2" since there aren't any design changes from the V5 frames, just a fresh order in new colors. He actually has already received the order and started shipping them. Red 54cm and 56cm are already sold out.

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>>1043853
>>1044173
Also, the pink is fuckin' gorgeous. The frame rides like a dream.
>mine

>>1044174
i love that bike so much every time you post it
that bike + that forest + some good weed would be heaven

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How often do you guys oil your chain? Which brand of oil would you recommend?

>>1044279
really more of a /BQG/ question, but its all good
a new chain can go a little while without lube because the stuff that they put on it at the factory is really good
after that starts to wear out a bit, I usually clean and lube the chain every weekend, although that's probably excessive

the most important thing is the conditions you're riding in
if its raining or you're going through mud you need to clean it way more often and you should use a wet lube
if you're riding mostly on the road in the dry, use a dry lube and you can clean a bit less often

>>1044279
If it's a nice bike that you never want to get wet, I use Finishline Dry Teflon Lube

It's a little squeaky, but it doesn't pick up dirt so you almost never have to clean it.

>>1044280

fuck I thought I was in the /BQG/ thread :D

>>1044048

I have a planet x kaffenback 2 built up into something really similar.
the build cost around 600 € but that with quite some thrifting
They also sell a flatbar build, don't know their price though and the stock colourways are pretty shit

>>1044279
Milk her tits onto your chain you unoriginal baby.

Is $450 a fair price for this bike if everything looks good? If not, what do you think I could get it down to? I think it's a 2005 model, judging by the photos. https://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/bik/5975481583.html

>>1044311
A perfectly new bike that is superior in every way is $630: http://www.wiggle.com/verenti-technique-tiagra-2016/
A perfectly new bike that is about equal less one gear is 440: http://www.wiggle.com/verenti-technique-sora-2016/

So, """no""". Why are you even looking on craigslist before doing the slightest bit of research on what shit costs new? Seriously, why?

>>1044314
I prefer not to buy bikes online.

>>1044174

I wrote that late at night

I've seen the new ones. They're wild

But I read on freaking Guitarted that he's designing a disc version now

So I'm gonna sit and wait and think

>>1044321
Which has fuck all to do with anything and similar bikes are available at your LBS. But oh no, please continue to pay near full retail price on old second hand shit with soon a decade worth of wear and tear. Because online... Because Spech Concept Store LBS...

The stupid. It hurts, anon. It hurts.

>>1044326
>Being this retarded.

>>1044277
Thanks dude!

>>1044325
>I read on GTed that Mike is making a disc version

Which GTed knows because he reads Mike's blog.

Mike has been noodling about doing a disc version for at least three years now. Sometime this past fall, he said "summer 2017, maybe?" That is not a definitive date. You're in for a very uncertain wait.

>>1044337

My other concern is how it rides. I haven't ridden a steel bike besides a nishiki roadie with tange 2 . I wonder about the weight. I like my fat tire drop bar aluminum bikes though

>>1044362
>concern is how it rides
smooooth

>I wonder about the weight
Mine (56cm frame) was not particularly a weight weenie build and came out at 25 pounds (with pedals, bottle cages, etc)

i want a garbon handlebar.

convince me i don't need to buy a sixc to replace my aluminum ride bar.

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>>1043330
Ayylmao

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not really looking to buy a bike but cycling shoes.
i saw and tried ones at a store and really liked them, good price, seemed good. but i didnt know the brand. so i wanted to google it first. problem is i forgot the brand name and i cant seem to finde a list of cycling shoes manufacturers online... can anyone help me? where could i find a big list of brand names?
i remember it started with sz or zs, something weird like that,thanks!

>>1044393
specialized, shimano, pearl izumi, five-ten, giro, louis garneau

thats not all of 'em, but you'll find what you want in there somewhere.

>>1044393
Sidi?

>>1044393
fizik?

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>>1043330
>Bought the Gravity Ave. D from bikesdirect on Friday
>How fucked am I?

AYLMAO

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Would moving to a 26' trial bike be much different than a 29' XC bike? I've got a 2012 Scalpel and was offered a 2013 Trance 2 for $800 cad. Whatever I end up with will have a 1x XT/XTR drivetrain/brakes and will weigh the same. Am I going to see much difference on the rough stuff, and is that an good price?

>>1044449
>Would moving to a 26' trial bike be much different than a 29' XC bike?

*trail, not trial, trial is smth else. It would be different, yes.

> I've got a 2012 Scalpel and was offered a 2013 Trance 2 for $800 cad.

I personally would go for it, it will be more enjoyabele a the hard stuff, travel is more important in that that wheel size, and geometry of that giant is more trail oriented than that cannondale. depends on your style of riding in the end.

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>>1044417
>>1044419
>>1044433
thanks! turns out my mind was playing tricks on me, it was Exustar.
pic related cheap (80usd) mtb shoes. they would be my first clipless shoes, im gonna use them on my first road bike (have been riding mtb for a while but always on platform pedals).

anyone know this brand? should i avoid it? do thwey look ok? any tip regarding shoes would be great. i tried them alongisde the cheapest shimano and felt this more comfy. dude in the store was trying to sell me these...but that could be a no no as a yes yes,who knows!

>>1044497
>anyone know this brand? should i avoid it? do thwey look ok?
I don't know about the brand, but they doesn't look bad. As long as they fit, it's ok with shoes.

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>>1044449
I "upgraded" from a beefy hardtail 26" XC/AM to a 29" XC/AM bike and i fucking hated it. My agility, handling, and climbing went down the tubes on the 29er. Im not back on my 12 year old 26" and i couldn't be happier.

fuck 29ers

>>1044497
All my shoes are Exustar. We carry them at the LBS i work at. They are great quality for the price.

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>>1044503
>fuck 29ers

they are only good for gravel grinding type mtb rides - they feel softer on gravel, that Ill admit, but that is the only good thing I can tell about them. Such a retarted (((new standard)))...and so is 650b.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jVHrS-jsF8

>>1044511
Watched the video. Literally in my eyes my 26 does everything their 29 did. Like its flipped for me. I do everything better on my 26. I cant even make it up some steep climbs on my 29er i could fly up on my 26.

who knows, maybe im retarded

>>1044503
>>1044511
>>1044512
wheelsize debates are pointless, this stuff was figured out a long time ago:

1. larger wheels lose less inertia when rolling over bumps than smaller wheels
2. smaller wheels give a shorter turning radius compared to a larger wheels
3. bike handling characteristics depend on tire tread, width, and pressure, frame geometry, fit, weight distribution, and the rider's habits - trying to predict/assess real world bike handling by considering wheelsize alone is pointless.
4. in an ideal world, every rider would have wheels (and frames) proportional to their body size and riding style, but the constraints of practical manufacturing and design mean that we have to settle for a handful of standardized wheel sizes

>>1044516
>2. smaller wheels give a shorter turning radius compared to a larger wheels
Turning radius is determined by wheel base. Wheel size does not affect wheel base, and in turn, does not affect turning radius. Perhaps you meant something else.

>>1044517
>>1044516
>trying to predict/assess real world bike handling by considering wheelsize alone is pointless.

this is wrong, especially in MTB, where HA is small to make the suspenssion work. Trail is affected dramatically with wheels size that way and it doesnt allow modren geometry dramatically small HA design (at least the ones that should work good) on 29ers - yes, you can indeed ad offset but it will handle like a cruiser, when cornering the flip flop effect will be significant.

If you use short travel or rigid, 29ers can work.

>>1044517
Turning radius isn't quite the right word, no. Wheelbase does determine the total turning radius of a bike, but because the wheels are not always held at the same angle the size of the front wheel does change the rate of response to steering inputs.

Take a wheel, hold it at a constant angle (camber) relative to whatever surface you're standing on and turn it in a circle. A smaller wheel will track a smaller circle than the larger wheel, because of the difference in wheel circumference. In practice this means that the smaller wheel, regardless of total wheelbase, will make changes in the direction of travel more quickly (a shorter distance if you measured the line tracked by the front wheel) than a larger. This is why smaller wheels can feel quicker/twitchy and larger wheels feel stable/slower.

It's my first time on /n/ and I'm a complete idiot when it comes to bikes and bike parts so be easy on me

Throughout my life I've only owned cheap 50€ bikes from my local walmart equivalent and while I never had any problems, I'm thinking it's probably time to upgrade to something better.

I would only use it to go to and from work and also for road trips. What would you recommend with a budget of around 400€? I'd like it to have a flat bar too

>>1044533
A road bike, something used, with clearance for 28mm-32mm tyres. Also mounts for panniers and mudguards if possible.

>>1044533
>I'd like it to have a flat bar too
You'd think so, but you just don't know any better.

>>1044531
If I understand the experiment you're describing then no, it does not in any way, shape or format apply to the way a bike turns or otherwise handles. A riderless unicycle with an anti gravity seat - sure!
Precesion is largely irrelevant.

>>1044533
The Kona Dew. The cheapest not terrible brand name hybrid bike you can buy.

>>1044516

no but my friend said 29er was faster

Any reason not to buy the Surly Disc Trucker for a tour? Seems decent to me and the bike looks pretty nice.

Why did they get rid of the triple? Everything is double now. Is triple really that bad?

File: Contend-SL1D-CB-Black.jpg?width=2000&quality=90&mode=none&bgcolor=white.jpg (1B, 486x500px)

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How come Giant bikes are so much cheaper than other brands for similar specs? Is there a catch? I'm look to pick up a Contend SL 1 Disc some time in the future.

>>1044608
They disappeared for two reasons, very few people need the range of a triple now that there are more gears and a greater range in the back and because the "more speed = more better" thing finally ended.

>>1044616

They make frames for most other manufacturers so they can keep their costs lower

>>1044616
They aren't. That bike costs $1300. A Fuji Sportif 1.3 costs $1200. They trick you by comparing to top shelf brands. I think Giant must have larger margins than Trek and Cdale so they actually try to downsell.

>>1044624
Except that's wrong.

>>1044608
Triples became popular during 9 speed era. It differentiated between a real race bike and a shitter road bike. Instead of having a climbing cassette, you just slapped on an 11-25 on every bike, the difference was bikes for shitters that needed low gears had a triple.

Turns out shitters don't like being called out for being shitters, and are shit at adjusting FDs. So the combination of compact cranks and the extra cog in the 10 speed era let shitters pretend to be pro with doubles.

Except now everyone knows shitters run compacts, so you have the mid compact. And it turns out the triple was so unpopular during the 10 speed era, and you would get so much overlap with 11 speed, they didn't even bother, cheaper to only make doubles. They now have poser mid compacts for shitters and 32 cogs. But the shitters get to pretend they have the same gearing as pros now, so it might stay this way.

>>1044635
This is misleading. Giant doesn't have that much market share, and for the companies they do supply, they often don't supply the entire line up of frames.

>>1044606
If you have the money and like it, buy, It looks like a Nice bike

File: 2017-Kona-Sutra-Touring-Bike.jpg (1B, 486x500px)

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>>1044606
>Any reason not to buy the Surly Disc Trucker for a tour? Seems decent to me and the bike looks pretty nice.

From what I hear it's a great choice for a tour, but not so much commuting. Rides like a boat

If it's a real, loaded tour, you aren't going to do much better on a new frame. Fuji Touring is probably a better deal but I expect less attention to detail there.

Here is a real long list of stuff out of your price range. Best to learn

http://www.cyclingabout.com/a-complete-list-of-touring-bicycle-manufacturers-with-prices/

There is a separate list for Off-Road and Adventure bikes

>>1044653
Not sure if serious

>>1044608
First because touring, the main bike activity where triples are in demand, is much less popular than it used to be, although it's recovering.
Second because compact cranks + 11-32 cassettes cover much of the range of triples.

>>1044616
I don't know if they are cheap. This month I was looking for a bike around 900-1000 euro, there was a giant at 1000 euro with tiagra while there was tiagra bikes for just 900 euro at canyon and rose, and other brands had tiagras at 900-930 euro too. I ended purchasing a bike with full 105 for 750 euro (25% off), so I'm not sure if they are the cheapest bikes, I think they are on the average side.

>>1044606
You should consider the Troll. It's a little better suited for backroads, trails, and other fun places.

>>1044669
How big of a factor is the saddle? I considered the Kona Sutra because it comes with a supposedly nicer saddle and a rear rack, but I would have to drive a lot further to get one and thought the Surly Disc Trucker would probably be just as good if I replace the saddle. I guess I'll probably ride on the one it comes with for a while and decide if I like it or not and if I don't I can upgrade while on the road.

I also want to know how big of a deal the brakes are. I would imagine if I get it loaded up heavily and encounter steep gradients say in the rockies or something, it could be a very big deal, however, I don't really know what the difference between a fuji and the disc trucker is in real world terms. If the brakes on the fuji are going to be perfecly fine for a normal sized load at any sane gradients then I would probably consider it or other cheaper bikes without disc breaks.

File: 431.jpg (1B, 486x500px)

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Bought this Bianchi for $550- Obviously the triple crankset is going to have to go at some point, but other than that it seems like a fantastic bike for the price. Really looking forward to riding it, this will be my first steel frame bike, hopefully I will see what the fuss is about.

>>1044736
That is the ugliest seatpost I've ever seen.
Otherwise, nice bike.

>>1044736
>Obviously the triple crankset is going to have to go at some point
Why?, it does not look worn.

>>1044736
I really doubt that this is a steelbike, as far as i know Bianchi never made Steelframes with a 1 1/8" headtube, or is this some weird 1" aheadhack?

Other than that, the Gruppo is great for Beginners, the Wheelset is great for beginnerstuff, overall not bad components, just an ugly as fuck Seatpost

>>1044736
Good bike, anon! It has massive potential and will come out gorgeous with some TLC, but in it's current state it looks a bit sad.

Keep the chainset. Get a round, gloss, 0° stem. If the wheels are stickered I think you should keep the 'Campagnolo' sticker and rip the 'Vento G2' off. If it's painted you can stealth it with some electricians tape. The red accents does not do the bike any favours, but the 'Campagnolo' is cool. Move the brifters up a bit and tilt the handlebars down. The lowermost part of the drops should be perfectly horizontal and the top of the bars should have a very slight droop. The brifters are mounted too low - but not by much. You might get away with shifting them a bit without undoing the wrap.

And that seat post - kill it with fire.

>>1044716
>how big a factor is the saddle
that's probably the most important thing on a touring bike
if you don't like your saddle you'll be in hell
also, make sure you break your saddle in properly before you tour

>brakes
rim brakes will stop you. they may not do it quite as fast or as smoothly as a good disc brake, but you won't fall to your death because you're using rim brakes or anything.

one thing to factor in is that rim brakes can be adjusted easily on the go with just a hex key and every bike shop in the world will carry tons of spare pads for them

disc brakes are reliable usually, but if you crash and the rotor bends or something goes wrong with the hydraulics, then you have to get it fixed at a pretty well equipped bike shop, lots of small ones in small towns won't know how

>>1044745
>I really doubt that this is a steelbike
I'm not the anon but it is steel. 631, in fact.

File: ridley crosswind.jpg (1B, 486x500px)

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>Ridley Crosswind ALU
>Shimano 105, Mavic Aksyium, Challenge grifo tires

500 eur. Worth it?

>>1044716
>How big of a factor is the saddle? I considered the Kona Sutra because it comes with a supposedly nicer saddle and a rear rack, but I would have to drive a lot further to get one and thought the Surly Disc Trucker would probably be just as good if I replace the saddle. I guess I'll probably ride on the one it comes with for a while and decide if I like it or not and if I don't I can upgrade while on the road.
>I also want to know how big of a deal the brakes are. I would imagine if I get it loaded up heavily and encounter steep gradients say in the rockies or something, it could be a very big deal, however, I don't really know what the difference between a fuji and the disc trucker is in real world terms. If the brakes on the fuji are going to be perfecly fine for a normal sized load at any sane gradients then I would probably consider it or other cheaper bikes without disc breaks.

I have experience riding a V-braking touring bike with a 20 LB load (guessing) on long day rides

I can't really tell you if what you need if you are going on a Real Bike Tour

But my experience:

* Saddle and fit is 100% most important for any bike, and a Brooks B17 is by far the most popular touring saddle --- BUT the more expensive Selle Anatomica is better. Saddle should be a big part of the budget

* long-pill V-brakes coupled with Kool Stop half salmon pads are fucking great. As good as disc in dry conditions, better than shitty discs in wet conditions. But Spyre mechanical discs are definitely better.

With a lot of weight, it is hard to stop. I've only carried 20 lbs. If you are doing heavy touring and have the money, I'd say go for disc.


BUT BUT BUT BUT

There are guys touring on cantilever without problems. If you ride conservatively, don't bomb downhill, don't ride on the road in the rain, you don't need disc imho

Final statement: A good touring bike is all about fit, then wheels. An old rigid MTB w/ good wheels stumpjumper will make a great touring bike

File: Wiggle-Hybrid-Bike-Hybrid-City-Bikes-Black-1WGMY16T7051UK0001-10[1].jpg (1B, 486x500px)

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What's the consensus on wiggle own brand bikes? I'm looking to replace my carrera subway two which got stolen. I've come across their hybrid and mtb models:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/compare/shared?product=5360108809&product=5360108807 .

Any thoughts? Thanks

>>1044770
Upmarket BSO. Better than supermarket crap, but still crap. If price is absolutely the only criteria beside basic roadworthyness (most other BSOs fail on that one), then yes. If you value anything else, at all, the Eastways, Charges and cheap models from established brands like Kona are well worth the puny bit of extra dough they ask.

>>1044767
Hell no. 5600 is not as bad as 5700 but unexciting as fuck and 4800 Tiagra is mechanically way better suited to dirty conditions than the older tenspeeds. Mavic should go die in a fire in general but cyclocross would be the discipline where their plastic(!) body bearings would suck more than usual. Ridley has funky geos, but if it fits you...
The best thing about that bike is the tyres. They're not worth €500.

Cyclocrosses are expensive, unfortunately, but if you can manage another €250 for a new bike I'd suggest the Eastway Balun C2 of the PlanetX XLA. If you can't then keep looking or haggle the Ridley way the fuck down. Which you probably won't have much luck doing, because it cost the owner. A lot. Not that it was worth it, but it did.

I'm looking to upgrade from my jango 7.1 as it's way too heavy. I'm planning on getting a flat bar road bike. Any recommendations for 1000-1500? Right now i'm looking at a giant fastroad slr1 (possibly comax 2) but the specialized sirrus sport carbon looks bretty good too.

Also, is it a bad idea to have carbon if i'm parking this on bike racks on campus? I read somewhere that they can get dented easily

>>1044539
Not him but what's wrong with flat bars? i'm planning on getting those for my next road bike

>>1044770
You get what you pay for

>>1044744
>>1044746
You guys are right, I probably will keep the triple, unless the ratios really get on my nerves. I'm definitely going to get a regular shaped seatpost, not sure if I'm going to go for alloy or carbon. I have a Fizik Arione saddle I'm going to use with it (but I guess I will see if the current saddle is comfortable too) and I will likely swap out the handlebars for some with a more compact bend. I'll definitely post some pictures of it once I've had a bit of time tweaking it in a pybt.

>>1044774
Wow, I was about to buy it but just wanted a final confirmation. It doesn't really make sense to me that Tiagra would be preferred to 105. I thought 105 is mechanically superior?

What's wrong with Mavic? I see their rims recommended for road cycling. Which rims would be more suited to cyclocross?

I can't really find those bikes on 2nd hand. Here in Flanders, most of the second hand bikes I find are Flanders-based Ridley (makes sense)

>>1044804
They offer a single hand position which can become uncomfortable on long rides. Unless you put barends on it, but then why would you switch from the bars with hoods you already have.

>>1044855
Mavic's rims are good, in fact among the very best. The problem is some of their road hubs that rely on non-metal parts to shave off grams at the expense of reliability. It works fine if you ride on clean roads, for example if you mostly use your bike for races, but if you use your bike in dirty city street it's not so good.

>>1044855
>I thought 105 is mechanically superior?
Not much superior, it's that the new tiagra is bretty good and cheap.

>>1044855
Modern 10 speed Tiagra is probably quite similar in weight and performance to 5600 105, although in my opinion the 105 is a better constructed groupset. The levers feel better in the hand and gear changes are much better defined than modern Shimano. Only downside to the 5600 is braking from the hoods requires a fair bit more force- you definitely won't be braking with a single finger.

For 500 euros, if the bike fits you (as the other guy said, Ridley's seem to be sized really strange) it seems like a pretty reasonable deal.

>>1044856
>why would you switch from the bars with hoods you already have.
Neither of the guys that are interested in flat bars have said that they already have a drop bar bike. They also haven't said what length of riding they would be doing. So no, drop bars aren't automatically better than flat bars for everyone and perhaps not for them.

>>1044873
First guy hasn't even ridden anything other than flat bars so his "preference" is baseless
Second guy talked about his "next road bike", which implies he already has had one before, and since he wants flat bars now, one would assume his previous one didn't have them.

None of this matters anyway, flat bars offer zero advantages over drops or bullhorns on the road, so it would be silly to pick them over either. I have the suspicion that most people who want to switch from drops to flats do so because they had old, hood-less brake levers which can be pretty damn uncomfortable.

>>1044874
>First guy hasn't even ridden anything other than flat bars so his "preference" is baseless
He said "owned", not ridden. You're making the assumption that he's never ridden drop bars. Even if we assume that assumption to be true he's said that he's fine with flat bars and had no issues so there's no reason to suggest that he get a drop bar bike.

>Second guy talked about his "next road bike
I'm fairly certain that guy is the one in the previous post to that who has the Jango 7.1, although I could be wrong. Even if he does have a drop bar bike that doesn't mean he doesn't now want a flat bar bike. Yes he could just stick with the drop bar bike but maybe he's upgrading and so has to get a new bike.

>flat bars offer zero advantages over drops or bullhorns on the road, so it would be silly to pick them over either
They give greater control and to some a more comfortable riding position, not everyone does long journeys that may require multiple hand positions (not that you can't get multiple positions with flat bars) or wants the added aero to go even faster. Flat bar bikes are generally cheaper for the same spec, that's an advantage worth considering.

>>1044875
>They give greater control and to some a more comfortable riding position
No offense but those sounds like the arguments someone who's never ridden a properly fitter drop bar bike for any decent amount of time would make. I get it, drop bars are scary at first.

>>1044888
It's got nothing to do with fit, it's just a consequence of having narrow bars with a long forward extension.

>>1044890
Average width of drop and flat bars isn't too different (unless we're talking about wide ass MTB bars which would make no sense on a commuter), and the forward extension of hoods doesn't hinder control at all, and is in fact more comfortable.

>>1044893
Drops bars are what, around 440mm wide? That's very narrow for flat bars. Most flat bar road bikes are going to be 600mm+. The forward extension does affect handling, that's why mountain bikes have short stems. It also doesn't automatically make them more comfortable, that comes down to the fit. Are you also saying that a 130mm stem is always more comfortable than a 90mm one?

>>1044895
No, I'm saying the forward extension puts your hands further over the front wheel which makes for less twitchy steering. And MTBs have short stems because you have to move the bars around quite a bit, which you don't do on the road.

>>1044898
also, if you go down into the drops you lower your center of mass so you're more stable on descents

>>1044875
It's me the second guy. And yeah i'm the same guy that had the jango 7.1.
I've never had a drop bar bike. I've tried one today and they felt nice (even though i wasn't fitted to the bike or anything). The guy at the shop said that he recommends flat bars for the campus riding that i'll be doing for more control though.

>>1044906
Are you trying to imply you can't tuck with flat bars? Tucking combined with the greater leverage of wider bars is going to give you even more control.

Drops bars have their advantages but control is not one of them. They're good if you want multiple hand positions for long distance comfort (and don't want to mess with adding extensions to flat bars) and if you want a more aero position for going faster. For short distance commuting there's nothing wrong with flat bars.

>>1044855
>It doesn't really make sense to me that Tiagra would be preferred to 105. I thought 105 is mechanically superior?
That only applies to groupsets from the same model year, and not always even then. The 105 group on that bike is 5600, or two models behind the current Tiagra at 4800. The second number indicates model revision. The first group bling-factor, which sometimes correlates well with features and feel - but far from always. 5700 was a real lemon, for example, and 4600/5600 always shifted better. Because ↓.
First generation 10spd all move much too little wire when shifting so housing flex, bedding, unfortunate frame design and dirt/wear on cables cause poor shifting. 5700 additionally put the cables under the bar tape. Shimano made the cables exit the shifter at very awkward angles - which meant very aggressive bends on the housing, further exacerbating the reliability problem.
Current gen (Tiagra 4800) 10spd has adopted the 11spd pull ratio and is therefore much more resilient to wear and dirt. Even with the wires going under the tape.

So no, 105 is not always better than Tiagra. And that goes double for an old 105 vs a new Tiagra.

>>1044857
>Mavic's rims are good, in fact among the very best.
No. Only francophiles try to convince themselves of that. Their Maxtal alloy is knows to be brittle and crack even with moderate spoke tension, eyeletted rims and rims weights half a hg higher than the competition. Their """ceramic""" sidewalls come off in patches which not only looks ugly but makes brakes go *tug*tug*tug*tug*. They keep peddling 17mm mountainbike rims because they're still stuck in the nineties. All their rims weigh a ton.

As for the system wheels, a part from the retarded freehub design you're alreasy familiar with they're also the only wheel manufacturer of this century to have made (and tried to sell, no less) something as positively harebrained and thoroughly incompetently engineered as a compression spoked wheelset. With all the usual superlatives about how revolutionary this cart wheel technology was.
Some people still think Mavic has anything to offer because OpenPro was the so-noodly-it's-comfortable meme rim for those who couldn't afford the Ambrosio Nemesis in the nineties. The brand recognition lingers long after the products stopped being relevant. Some other people (hipsters and """touring""" folk) believe that as long as the rim weighs close to a kilo it has to be near indestructible. And Mavic provides. When they crack anyway, because Maxtal, these retards can go on and on about how hardcore they and their touring is and how they even """wore out""" a 850g frog rim.

Mavic seriously need to be put out of business. For crimes against common sense. And Trenduro Yellow. And being french, a bit. But mostly for lack of common sense and being habitual fuckups. Good god I hate Mavic.

>>1043893
Kek
I get my groceries delivered to my door for £3 so i can have fun when I ride my bike.

After finding out just how scarce floor models for touring bikes were in my area I said fuck it and just ordered a fuji touring bike without ever trying one. Do you think I will regret it? Anyone else had any experiences with buying bikes off the internet that you never test rode? How did it go?

>>1045677
unless they've radically changed the spec in the last couple of year (mine is 2012) the fuji is a great bike - if you wanted a sturdy and dependable touring bike you won't regret it at all.
it took a while to dial mine in perfectly - change the tires and the seat.

>>1045677
stock saddle and bartape isn't comfortable, and get some schwalbe marathon supremes on there and it'll be a solid bike

>>1045677
>>1045678
>>1045680

Well my bike came but it says on the box that I must take it to an authorized Fuji dealer to get it assembled and adjusted or else I void the warranty. This seems like total fucking bullshit. I would have never payed to have the bike delivered to my house if I knew I would have to take it to the store to get it assembled if I wanted the warranty. Does anyone know a way I can get around this fucking bullshit requirement??

>>1045762
Would they even know if you did it yourself?

>>1045763
I don't know. The dealer might have to do something to register it. If they do and I assemble it myself, I'm fucked. I go to make a claim on my warranty and they say well it looks like this model was never registered in the system so sorry you're fucked. I have no idea how it works.

>>1045764
It might be worth looking into warranty law wherever you live, they might be obliged to honour the warranty just because you bought it and they just hope you don't realise that.
I know apple do that where I live. They trick people into paying extra for a two year warranty when all electronic goods have a mandatory two year warranty already.

>>1045762
get some tools and put it together, problem solved

Thoughts on specialized tricross?

>>1045796
>spec tricross
A mediocre bike that's designed to handle many kinds of riding but isn't very good for any of them. If you're looking at Specialized bikes in particular, check out a Diverge instead.

>>1044945

Just intruding on the discussion here. I tend to find that drop bars feel more natural as a hand position. Riding flat bars forces your hands into pronation all the time, whereas most people have hands that, when at rest dangling by your sides, are thumbs forward between pronation and supination. I find riding on the hoods as my main position keeps my hands/wrists in their natural position.

>>1045834
That is true, it is a far more comfortable hand position for extended periods. You can get the same position by using extensions on flat bars.

>>1045796
It's an adventure bike, was suppose to be an unbranded cyclocross bike but turned into urban explorer/touring hybrid.

>>1045839

That is also true. I would like a flat bar commuting bike desu. But I only have the space/budget for two bikes and I treat them as a "good" road bike and a less valued one that I can take away to work on away jobs.

I am also the OP of this thread. I answered my own question and bought the Diverge. Its fucking awesome. I kinda wanna trade my TCR in for a higher-end diverge now as a "good" bike.

>>1045796
>>1045840
Thanks, I'm looking for something between a cyclocross and a touring bike. Not as big and heavy as a touring bike, capable of going fairly fast and going off-road, and able to carry a moderate amount of luggage

>>1045847

Specialized Diverge/GT grade or some other adventure road bike.

>>1045850
>>1045847
seconding gt grade, its a solid bike if you throw some good tires on there

kona jake is pretty good too, or a trek 520 if you don't mind a bit more weight

File: IMG_6323[1].jpg (1B, 486x500px)

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Did I fuck up?

Today I went to a reputable LBS selling used bikes (I'm in NYC, so bikes are a little more expensive anyway). I got this one for $375. Jamis Commuter 2, not sure what year. Aluminum frame, recently installed fenders, but otherwise I don't know what parts are stock and what aren't. The MSRP over the last several years of models has averaged in the low $500s, apparently.

>>1046325
I probably wouldn't have paid that much for it, but you didn't fuck up, it'll make a good commuting rig

tires look good, those fenders are pretty slick, the rack looks solid, and looks like a decent groupo

get it fitted properly, replace those shitty pedals, get lights and ditch the spoke reflectors and it'll be a good ride

>>1046325
It's a name brand bike at least!

>>1046325
Jamis makes perfectly fine bikes.

You could have gotten a better deal on Craigslist from a private seller, but the price you paid certainly isn't a ripoff.

Nice looking fenders. 1x with bashgard to keep your pants out of the chain is nice on a commuter.

Adjust that rack, it should be level. Replace that shit seat. Also, adjust your seat height - based on the handlebar height, I'm guessing you have the seat set waaay too low.

File: slamthatstem-headset-top-caps02.jpg (1B, 486x500px)

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>>1046325
can you even slam your stem on that bike?

Trying to decide between the 2016 Specialized Allez Elite or the 2017 Giant Contend SL Disc 1. The Specialized is $1000 and the Giant is $1300. Anyone have any opinions one way or another? The Giant has disc brakes and 105 but I think the Specialized has the better frame. I don't know how serviceable the Giant Conduct system is either.

>>1046883
I'd definitely recommend riding both before buying one, but if it were me I'd probably go with the specialized

105 is nice, but modern tiagra is basically just as good imo unless you need that extra cog

brakes on a road bike are kinda a preference thing I think, I kinda like the feel of a nice caliper, and prefer disc brakes only on a mountain bike, but its your call if you think discs + 105 is worth $300 to you

>>1046330
>>1046363
>>1046368

Thanks for the input. As I've been riding it to work and back I've noticed that the top tube is maybe just a little too high for me, even though it's sloped. It rubs against my crotch while wearing boots, so I can't imagine it'll be any better with my summer sneakers. And I can't raise the seat any higher, really. The best I could do is move it up 1" and a little bit forward. Otherwise, I won't reach the pedals. tl;dr the frame might be too big for me. Good thing I can return/exchange at this shop.

>>1046883
It depends on what you want out the bike- the Allez is more aggressive and will be the faster and lighter choice, albeit possibly less comfortable if you have poor flexibility. The Giant will be slower, but the disc brakes might be nice to have if you ride in the rain often- thankfully they are hydraulic, which is the way to go with disc brakes if you want them.

I would not worry about the difference between the groupsets- the Giant has a wider range cassette, so even though it has 1 more cog than the Allez, the spacing between them is going to be pretty much the same. You really don't need a 32 tooth cog with a compact crankset anyway, 34-28 is a very low gear for road riding.

Personally I'd go with the Allez.

I want a bike for commuting and urban travel, and I want to spend less than 200 dollars. What do

>>1047116
>post height
>post local craigslist
>frie/n/ds link worthy 90s rigid mtn bikes
>affix slick tires
>????
>proffit

CruX or Diverge?

there is a non-zero chance i will enroll in cylcomeme races next season, but the bike is really for dirt roads and going fast on them.

>>1047116
90s rigid mtb w/ slix

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I have found the best bike ever. Sadly its not a shop- they sell these.

Piebald special TWITTER car Shimano 30 -speed dual gas oil disc fork soft tail mountain bikes TW8800 AM
$4449
Wheel diameter size 6 inches
Braking System Disc brakes
Size 6 inches x17 inches
Item W-8800
Color Classification Red and white and blue gray brown black
Frame Type Last Frame
Do not speed 0 Speed
Are malls the same paragraph This is a tool based on Google Translator !
Time to market 014 in Fall
Fork type Gas fork ( air spring / shock oil damping )
Brand WITTER / piebald special
Frame Material Alloy

>>1047186
autism speaks

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theres even a road version for $2560
"Vehicle type: professional road bicycle racing stage
"Frame Fork Material: high-end carbon fiber / EU standard testing
"Wheels material: high-end carbon fiber / EU standard testing
"Frame height dimensions: 46CM / 50CM (based on rider height selected)
"Vehicle colors: white and red / black and red (based on rider preference selected)
"Vehicle weight: about 7.9KG

The frame of TW758 carbon fiber road
The group of TW-POWER carbon fiber road
TW carbon fiber rigid fork fork road
Bowl group TW bearing cone
Dial 5700 (105) 20 speed large package containing the wire pull V brake
Front derailleur
After dial
Tooth disc
Free wheel
Chain
Brake
The wheel group of high-grade carbon fiber ultra light top road wheel group
Germany Mapai highway professional tire
The set of Taiwan TOKEN high-grade bring
Special cushion TW highway
Taiwan WELLGO high-grade bearing lock foot pedal
Tripod
Taiwan JAGWIRE line pipe set
Vehicle accessories instructions (in English version)

>>1047188
thats just fucking awful

>>1047190
Its clearly authentic German and I bet the 105 group is real.

Do not speed 0 Speed

>>1047188
still probably comes out of a Giant factory.

Is it worth buying a modern groupset to put on my old steel frame or should I just get a whole new bike?

>>1047337
It's a nice frame or just average steel?

>>1047337
Get a whole "new" bike that has been used slightly and put all the parts on it.

>>1047163
Are you fitness or carrying cargo as a priority?

>>1047372
going FAST on dirt. i have a junker for carrying things

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>>1047337
I love the look. Pic related is a friends that weighs in at 19.1lbs. I personally wouldn't do it unless you work at a shop and can get parts at wholesale.

Unless you dump a whole lot of money it won't perform as well as a new bike. It will look cool though.

>>1047163

My diverge is good. Its barely any different in ride from a regular road bike desu. Just has bigger tire clearance, and an endurance road geometry...same geo as the Spesh Roubaix I believe. I run 28mm conti slicks at the moment.

I've decided to make several big changes in my life:

1. I want a mode of transportation that children use.
2. I want an excuse to wear ill fitting spandex.
3. I'd like to go places, but I want to get in the way of traffic when I do so.
4. I've decided to become a tremendous faggot.

Bicycles are the clear choice but I can't decide what kind to get.

>>1047452
Old ten speed
Have fun my friend

>>1047452
90s rigid mtb w/ slicks

>>1047408
Then get the crux and speed away

I'm looking to buy a cycling kit to make me look pro.

Is there a way I can buy actual pro team cycling kits?

>>1047453
$150

>>1047455
$75

>>1047452
power wheels

>>1047484
yes, google is your friend. Probably. It helps if you know what manufacturer makes the gear for the team you want.

>>1047465
will post when i have it

Should I get an omafiets and DIY a friction drive+rc motor on it?

It won't be something legal (draconian Dutch e-bike laws), but I'm not planning to go faster than 30 km/h anyway.

>>1047612
why not just get a bike that doesn't way a metric fuck-ton and not use a motor

whats the minimum i should spend on a decent commuter road bike with a 30 mile round trip max?

>>1047692
depends entirely on what you want to buy and how much work you're willing to do

if you don't care much about speed, and just want something simple and reliable, you can pick up a 90s rigid mtb or an old ten speed on craigslist or from a coop for pretty cheap (< $100) and it'll serve you well, but you'll have to work on it regularly

if you want something new it'll cost a lot more for something decent, but you start getting ok-ish commuters and entry level road bikes in the $500-600 range in a lbs, or $400-500 online if you're willing to assemble it yourself and know what you're doing

advantages of buying from a lbs and paying a bit more are usually a free basic fit when you buy it and cheap or free service for a year or two

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I will buy a new bike soon. Should it have an aluminium frame? Why aluminium and not other thing, like steel, iron, bamboo, etc?

>>1047781
Depends what you want to do with it. Aluminum is fine for most use. Just don't do something retarded like buying a steel frame with a carbon fork.

>>1047786
I commute. But the LBS owner keep touting aluminium as being lighter, and so allowing me to climb steeper streets, and riding with more speed. I think this is complete bullshit.

What motivated me to buy a new bike is that my iron frame has the wrong size for bottom bracket. So I would need to replace it. But, why the aluminium hype?

>>1047786
>Just don't do something retarded like buying a steel frame with a carbon fork.
That's really disgusting, and many people do that. Instead of purchasing an aesthetic, nice and reliable steel fork, but a generic garbon one.

>>1047781
Alu is fine, as long as it is good. Good alu can be the same as low end garbon or even better. Having alu frame means the bike will be cheaper and probably will have better components for less price.

>>1047790
>Alu is fine, as long as it is good.
How to know if it's good aluminium?

I never even though of becoming a Trekfag... BUT I'm looking to upgrade my alu entry-level bike and thinking of buying used.

How would u guys rate this deal. Im thinking of offering $2000.

Pros: Fits my size (6'4), powertap, carbon wheels

Cons:its a Trek, gay paint scheme, SRAM components, 2k13 so might be well used


http://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/oshawa-durham-region/trek-madone-6-2013/1237865476?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

What does a "frame warranty" actually cover? Will I get a new frame if it's bent out of shape over time? Or does it only count for a frame suddenly falling apart while riding it

>>1045850
Having looked around at some bikes, I'm probably going to end up with the Diverge as well.

>nice looking bike
>capable of light touring
>capable of some offroading/cx
>capable of baggage handling
>still looks like a good road bike

Probably going to settle on a new DSW Elite

>>1047800
Yes, sudden failure.

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So I want a Dutch bike but the decent ones seem to cost a bit too much for me I was planning on buying this bike and souping it up as that's still work out cheaper

Uses:
>do a maximum of 16 miles 4 times a week all weathers on the road
>comfortable rides
>arrive unruffled
>carry weekly shopping
>minimal maintenance

The bike:
http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/classic-bikes/real-classic-gents-bike

>5 speed click shifter internal hub gears
>V brakes front+rear
>enclosed chain case
>full mudguards
>rear carrier
>sit up handle bars
>bell

I'll add:
>double kickstand
>front rack + wire crate
>lights and bits
>chain + lock or something

This’ll set me back at most £375

Aside from buying used where can I get a bike with all the above at the same price. Don't mind a 3 speed

>>1047792
Usually double or triple butted frames, and the ones with nice welds usually are better made. If you see shit welding you know the manufacturer doesn't care too much about the frame.

>>1047789
>lighter, better for climbing, faster
that isn't bs, alu frames are pretty light, stiff and quick for the money. you can go lighter with carbon, but it isn't worth it unless you want to race

>iron
your bike isn't iron, its steel. iron has shitty tensile strength properties so you couldn't make a bike out of it. if lbs dude is telling you your bike isn't much good its probably cheap hi-ten steel, not good chromoly


>wrong size for bottom bracket
what? there are multiple sizes in use currently and some older sizes that aren't used much anymore, but if you need to replace your bottom bracket, you can still find new ones in pretty much any size

also, bottom brackets last a long time, you probably just need new bearings and some grease, not a full replacement

>i commute
this is personal preference, but i would either stick with your current bike (assuming it isn't too badly fucked up) or get something with a good chromoly frame. steel makes roads feel smoother and if its a good (double or triple butted) frame then it won't be much heavier than alu, and the ride quality will more than make up for any loss in speed

>>1047792
what >>1047830 said
but in general anything from the major manufacturers will at least be decent

>>1047789
It won't make you significantly faster.

The biggest advantage to aluminum for commuters is the fact that it doesn't rust. If you're using big 30mm+ tires, the frame material will make very little difference in ride comfort. Don't listen to the BS about steel fatigue life, aluminum will have more than enough fatigue life unless you plan on having a superlight aluminum frame for 3 decades, or the BS about the feel of steel.

But no, it really doesn't matter that much. But dollar for dollar, aluminum is lighter, and it doesn't rust.

>>1047830
There's nothing inherently wrong with unbutted aluminum. It just indicated a cheap heavier bike.

>>1047831
Steel is over 90% iron.

>>1047853
Rust is really overblown though. I got my first steel bike in decades 2 years ago and I've been commuting all year round with it. Over beds of packed salt in the winter, for 150 miles a week.

It's been hell on bearings and the drivetrain, as it would be for any kind of frame, but the frame itself is not showing any signs of trouble.

>>1047853
>steel is over 90% iron
yes, but its that last 10% that completely changes the material's properties

are road bikes less reliable/require more maintenance than hybrids? or does it matter more what kind of tires and components are included?

>>1047865
It depends what you mean by "road bikes"

The cutting edge stuff that costs as much as a new car and has technologies that came out last Tuesday is likely going to have trouble, 16 spoke wheels, 150g race tires, wireless electronic shifting... yeah, you touch the bike after walking across a rug and it's suddenly stuck in one gear forever. You fail to rub the sidewalls before each ride with extra virgin olive oil and they explode after 20 miles.

If you're in the market for a hybrid, with all that implies, this isn't a risk that applies to any road bike or configuration you are likely to be considering. Road bikes aimed at non-weight-weenie, non-freds are strong and reliable.

Would I be retarded for paying full retail new for one of the big 4 brands at a LBS?

>>1047873
Yes but you will get an extra punch in your Fred card.

Has anyone else noticed Nashbar/Performance bike customer service has gone down the shitter as of late?

The mishandled the last few orders I made with them and gave me an incredibly hard time trying to fix things.

>>1047862
Yes, and epoxy changes the properties of carbon fiber. Alloying elements in titanium and aluminum alloys change properties from pure elemental titanium and aluminum.

>>1047873
you can usually find a much better deal getting a used bike that's only 1 or 2 years old and has < 1000 miles on it

often the bike is basically new but costs half as much

>>1047884
this is very true, and some alloys can even become stronger over time via precipitation hardening, 6061 alu is a good example of that

>>1047786
>Just don't do something retarded like buying a steel frame with a carbon fork.

Doesn't it make sense in certain situations eg dick brakes where the natural springiness of a steel fork goes against how you want it to work?

>>1047883
Yeah, I don't order from Nashbar anymore ever since I discovered the UK shops, unless they have some sort of amazing clearance deal. And one time I did and they were factory seconds, but not in the factory seconds category.

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Hi guis, first time postan here. I'm looking for a cheap bike to buy and I've thought of just getting a cheap decathlon one to move around the city so mostly asking to europoors if they are any good or if someone has experience with this bikes

>>1048069
They're decent bikes at good value
However if you have a low budget it's always better to buy used

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>>1048069
I own two btwin bikes, one triban 3 I bought three years ago and one alur 700af which I bought extremely cheap some weeks ago.

I can say their road bikes are good enough and many of them have one of the best prices on the market. The tribans are good, even the cheapest ones, my triban 3 has microshift 8spd and never adjusted the shifting in more than 4.000km, the bad things about the bike are the cheap but strong wheels and that the front deraileur it's a bitch If you try to use the smaller ring (Thing I tried maybe three or four times in those 4k). As far I know, newer triban models are better because they have more clearance for bigger tyres so you could use up to 32mm If I'm not mistaken or 28mm+mudguards.

The triban 500 is pretty similar to my triban 3 (mine has bent fork and slightly different frame), so for 350 euro I could say you can't go wrong if you want a pretty reliable bike, because the bike is strong, this dude has more than 40k on his triban 3 and did long distance touring and endurance rides on it. I myself maybe this summer I will try some tour on my triban3.

Here's a different Q-

Moving to the city, where I'll be doing sharpening and repair. Want to look professional. I live in US so default attitude is no car = lazy liberal, but I live in bike friendly city and do good work.

What bike would look most trustworthy and professional to do pickup/deliveries on? I think a pelican case with company logo on it for carrying items will be used in any case, that seems good.

>>1048167
Cargo bike maybe?, they don't look like your average bike and only people who move stuff use them, and if you are gonna carry some big case, the cargo can be a good option.

Other option could be a dutch bike/vintage non race type bike like those old 3spds.

>>1048167
Something reasonably expensive looking and from an obvious "name brand", maybe a Trek 920 with Tubus racks

A dutch bike is a bad idea unless the city is pancake-flat, there's never any wind, and you don't intend to go more than a few miles at a time

>>1048167
i'm seconding >>1048169 here, cargo bikes are pretty cool if you're carrying lots of stuff
danger here is that they're going to be very slow and impractical if you aren't carrying lots of stuff

or you could just do as >>1048183 said and get something expensive looking and classy

>>1048183
I don't think most people can tell a name brand from not, or expensive components from cheap, aside from clean lines and nice paint. I agree a dutch bike would look good but not be very practical. Most trips would be a mile or two, but many times a week. It's very hilly here, and I will probably have to drag the bike up stairs to my apartment frequently.

I will give my current idea, not set on this at all, just seems attractive now. I was thinking of getting a Brompton. Make the pelican case a mount to attach to the carrier block in front. I feel the process of locking a bike to a signpost isn't classy, fiddling with lock, etc. To just pull off the case, fold the bike, and walk in the place with bike in one hand and company case in the other. Would that offset the dignity loss of riding a clown bike? I think so? It would certainly be a brand identity, I'd be spotted from three blocks away for better or worse. Also like the idea of it not getting stolen.

A cargo bike sounds like a solid competitor, it would look more professional in motion, though would be a pain to lock and carry up stairs.

Also need to consider keeping the money and walking to all places. A handful of positive interactions, new customers, is worth a lot. Not as much as the continuous cost of a car, but more than anything else.

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>>1048167

>>1048209
Fuck yeah! I would do something like that (definitely considered it) though good sharpening takes a lot more than one grinding wheel. Takes water and oil supply, grinder, five or ten waterstones, hand tools aplenty, tubs, etc. Sure would be good marketing to sharpen in front of people like that. Spose that's what YouTube is for.

I'm looking to buy a new frame for the coming summer. With a maximum budget of 2k€. Carbon road frame, doesnt have to be aero.

Does anyone have any better suggestions than Giant TCR advanced pro? My only problem with it is that the paint job looks like shit for this years model. The white SL frameset with integrated seatpost looks great but I'm not sure how I feel about integrated seatpost and the price.

>>1048212
You can get down to 3 or 4 wet stones. Ditch the oil stones, slow and messy.

>>1048212
Get a tormek, fucking around with a pile of benchstones is a waste of time if you are charging by the piece and not by the hour

>>1048216
>>1048217
Spose you just throw a $300 pair of scissors on the tormek and call it a day? This is why I have a job. How about chainsaw chain, or a rotary cutter, or a bandsaw blade? Oilstones have a place. So do waterstones, hand files, and potato latkes.

Cars don't have a place though.

Just kidding. I can dream right?

>>1048224
>Just kidding
Have some self respect. Cages should be banned, end of discussion.

>>1048215
Canyon has garbon frames for 2,5k and less than 2k (1,5k).

>>1048215
2 things.

1: What makes you want carbon? In your price range, a good alloy bike will be lighter, stiffer, and have better components than virtually any carbon bike you'll find. Carbon has the benefit of absorbing vibrations/road noise better, but if you're not too worried about that and care more about performance, go aluminum. Personal reccomendations are the cannondale caad12 and specialized allez sprint. caad12 is a fantastic all-arounder performance road bike, specialized allez sprint is a super agressive, stiff, twitchy race machine

2: If you want new carbon under 2k look for old 2016 models, that way you'll actually get a good bike with a great groupset, likely 105, at just around 2k. The only problem is finding your size since selection is more and more limited as 2016 models get snatched up. so just shop around at your nearby LBS

>>1048224
Nope, don't need oilstones for anything. Chainsaw chains don't use oilstones, nor do bandsaw blades.

I live in the inner loop of Houston Texas right next to a park. I need a bike that will work on concrete and the jogging track (which I think is mostly sand or maybe gravel?)..

The main purpose will be for general transportation/commute and exercise.

Anything good for a beginning around 500 USD?

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What does /n/ think of the Kona Jake basic model as a light touring bike? I was thinking of it for some credit card touring through Montana/North Dakota/Minnesota area this summer. This would be my first tour.

>>1048281

For credit card touring looks pretty close to ideal... But if you ever want to try out unsupported touring, you'll probably want to switch that crankset to something with a sub 30t granny gear.

Adding +20-30 pounds of gear sucks when you have to haul that crap up the continental divide.

>>1048281
1:1 low gear is pretty high for a tour, but doable if you're in good shape. NoDak/MN are flat as a pancake anyway.

a good, reliable, cheap bike for city travel?

under 400

>>1048252
he's just buying a frame, not a full bike

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About to bought this for around 2k$. Is it worth it or nah?

>>1048288
buy used under the $5-600 price point
standard recs are a 90s rigid mtb, or an OTS if you're comfortable with dt shifting and drops

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What is the cons of buying the wrong sized bike? My local bike shop is selling this dope Canyon Bike but doesn't fit my size. I wanted it so much...

>>1048300
depends on how far off the sizing is
there's really a range of frame sizes that are okay for most people, and then you can always adjust stem length and seatpost further

you can usually go down a frame size with no negative consequences if you change out the stem and get it fitted well. up a frame size is pretty hard to do unless you're very flexible

>>1048300
>too small
The reach will be off, and you'll feel scrunched up on it. Youd have to get a new stem to fix this, changing how the bike handles You'll have to raise the seat too high to compensate for short seattube, resulting in a high and potentially uncomfortable amount of bar drop. Workable if its 1-2 cm too small but not recommended.

>Too big
You're stretched out too far to get to the bars
seat is too low compared to the handlebars, giving you an awkward fit that would end up being uncomfortable. You can't really make a bike smaller either. Absolutely not recommended.

Bottom line, no matter how killer of a deal it is, it's not worth it if it doesn't fit you, because it'll just be a shitty bike and you'll regret it. you would be far from the first to make this mistake

>>1048298
>carbon bike with tiagra
lol no

get a good alloy bike. It will be lighter, stiffer, and have better shifting/brakes thats more mechanically reliable. And it will be cheaper

Only benefit that bike has over a good alloy bike is that carbon absorbs vibrations better.

>>1048310
More like can get +4cm to -6cm sizes and still make it work out by my estimation depending on your fit style.

>>1048312
Could you ride a bike that's 4 cm too big? yes. it's gonna not be a very good fit though and nobody in their right mind would recommend it over just getting the correct size.

>>1048313
>it's gonna not be a very good fit though
The fit is fine as long as you don't have special needs. The difference between say a 52 and a 56 Madone is ~3cm of stack which you can fix by using a -17 stem and using a shorter cone spacer, and a whole 7mm of reach, which is easily fixable by going a stem size shorter, which will not have much of a detrimental effect on handling. If you think it does you're crazy.

>nobody in their right mind would recommend it over just getting the correct size.
Moving the goalposts there. We're talking about being able to use what's readily available or on sale, not buying full retail.

>>1048252
You should probably try reading the question before answering it the next time. I'm looking for a frame only.

>>1048248
But is it going to be any better than the Giant? I didn't mention it but I've actually ridden the cheapest Giant TCR frame for ~1500 km and it seemed pretty good.

>>1048318
>We're talking about being able to use what's readily available or on sale, not buying full retail
It's still dumb. I've never once heard anyone going "man i wished i cheaped out and got the option that was cheaper and just didnt fit my needs well"
but i've heard "i wish i spent more and got the one out of my price range" countless times

>>1048321
No, it's really fine. You can live with having a 100mm -17 instead of a 110mm -6 stem. The problem is when you need extra adjustment because you're going to push the limits just getting it into average fit territory.

I have about 800$ for a bike. And I have two options 29er with full deore set and cross with almost same set and other frame. With one to get? I like forest riding but most of my use case is to get thorough a city to work and I want to do some longer (around 80km per day) trips. 29er is gorgeous looking and like overall experience but I am afraid of longer trips. Any suggestions?

How much truth is there to the statement that if your handlebars cover your hub when you're on the hoods, the bike is the right size for you?

>>1048511
this can depend on your headtube angle though, and the sweep of the fork if its an old style steel fork

i wouldn't go by that for fit

>>1048511
In some place I read that is from the drops, and not from the hoods where the hub shight must be blocked.

It's probably nothing scientific like knee over pedal meme because every person has different bodies, for example, I have an average-short torso but pretty long arms, so I can see the hub, but the fit I think is right.

I think it's just a method to see if the bike has an average fit for you, but then, you will need to adjust stuff to your body proportions.

>>1048511
Basically none. Sometimes it does. Sometimes you could have identical stack and reach but a frame with a different geometry and it won't.

Used to ride a hybrid bike when I was a teen, looking to buy a road bike for the first time to ride around on just for fun/exercise.

I'm capping my budget at no more than $250, I see a lot of promising road bikes at or under this price point on craigslist. Is there anything I should watch out for?

>>1048606

Link to your local craigslist, and also your height/inseam.

Do you need a bike with modern shifting up in the brake levers or are you okay with downtube shifting?

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>>1048608
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/search/nsd/bik
6'0, 32" inseam
I've only ever ridden bikes with modern shifting, but I'm sure I could get used to downtube shifting.
I've got my eye on pic related in particular.

>>1048623

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/5979401601.html

Roughly the same size, superior frame and parts

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/5994902074.html

Upper end of your budget but Campy drivetrain and Bianchi is a highly resellable brand. It's also probably closer to your true sizing, although I would recommend 57-58cm.

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/6002010929.html

This is definitely your size and low enough budget so that you have over a hundred bucks to play around with high quality tires, maybe a new helmet. I highly suggest buying the best tires you can, they affect ride quality more than frame material.

>>1048625

Upon closer inspection, that last one has a visably fucked chain, the drivetrain probably needs an overhaul. Not a great deal, expect to spend minimum 50-80 getting it running again.

>>1048625
I'm liking the last one. How would I go about finding the right tires to get? Looks like it needs some pedals as well.
For what it's worth, it's pretty hilly over here and I wouldn't mind taking it on a dirt trail or two.

>>1048626
>>1048627
Ah, that first one looks alright too. Any upgrades I should make to it?

>>1048627
>>1048628

Get some nice 25c tires, Conti GP4000SII, Schwalbe One, Michelin Pro4 Endurance are all great. You can buy a twinpack of either of these over on ribble for under 60 bucks. When you get them, I suggest going for a short 5 mile ride on the shit stock tires, then switching out and going for a ride on the new stuff. You'll see what I mean; it's like riding a totally different bike.

Over dirt, you might prefer a cyclocross bike or a touring bike equipped with canti boss style brakes. Get some 32-35c fatties and it'll handle fireroads easy peasy. Problem is both of these tend to be more expensive than road bikes.

Tires, brake bads, bartape are quick and easy upgrades. You can easily learn how to change these three yourself via youtube. Cables can make a big difference, but it's more of an involved job. I recommend waiting on cable replacement until you're sure wrenching is for you, otherwise just let a shop take care of it.

Pedals are personal preference. I suggest not bothering with cages, either use flats or jump straight into clipless pedals.

>>1048629
Thanks, I appreciate all the tips.

>>1048630

Yup, I suggest offering $140 for the Trek 610.

If you decide on getting flat pedals, MKS is my favorite brand and they tend to be pretty affordable. For clipless shimano 5800 is best value.

>>1043544
They upgraded the wheelset on that one for some askims. The other wheels where a POS and had quality control issue.

>>1048648
Yeah, before the purchase I supposed the wheels are the weakest part, but paying 1100 for a low tier mavic wheels and a proper 105 crankset is not enough for me, I prefer paying 750 and then upgrading the wheels once the old ones start failing, I also read some review saying that mavic are not really good and that ones made strange noises (maybe in one bikeradar's reviews)

For the moment I have rode the bike for 500km and I must say the riding quality is good, this week I'm gonna ride a lot because the last two weeks there was an awful weather with too much wind and rain.

>>1048651
Mavic wheels are known to have shitty freehubs that make noise and have play in them.

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Is this a decent deal? I'm having trouble finding info on the frame, but it's local, $350 isn't a lot to me for a spare road bike that I could use for more casual riding, and I've been wanting that style shifter.
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/6002738921.html

>>1048842

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/6000593600.html

Similar parts, better brand. slightly cheaper

>>1048844
Really? I would have thought Scattante was the better brand, though I'll admit to knowing next to nothing about either.
That Marin one is hideous though...I don't know that I'd find that worth saving $50

>>1048844
That bike looks rusty.Rust on the chain, and rust even on the stem bolts. The owner probably had that bike under the rain for many days. Also the frame looks scratched due to chain rub behind the big rings. One should be cautious with that bike, because even the hubs could be fucked due to rain, and of course, that bike needs a new chain+cables.

>>1048844
>https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/6003674288.html

B U Y
U
Y

would a surly lht(disc) be a good first commuter bike over a similarly priced giant/specialized/trek as far as long term goes? the latter seems less upgradeable where at least the lht has a solid frame

want no frills commuter budget 1000 aud

>>1048842
Ended up getting it for $310. Guy was super nice and the bike seems pretty great just needs a little tune up and a new front brake pad.

>>1044503
I don't really care honestly. My 26" felt nice and so does my 29".

File: x7ZTKFc.jpg (58KB, 600x736px) Image search: [Google]

58KB, 600x736px

should I?

>>1049975
90s folding chainsaw with slicks/10

>>1047830
Could you please tell me how can I know a weld is good or bad?

>>1047831
>alu frames are pretty light
OK, but I meant it's bullshit I'll climb better.

>there are multiple sizes in use currently and some older sizes that aren't used much anymore
It was said there were no good bottom brackets for my frame hole size. Only the shittiest pieces were produced for it.

>bottom brackets last a long time
I'm using it for 10 years.

>steel makes roads feel smoother
???

>if its a good (double or triple butted) frame then it won't be much heavier than alu
I rised an aluminium frame and it is far lighter than my current bike.

>>1050176
http://www.slideshare.net/AWS-CWI-Training/welding-defects-41347297

>>1050180
>bullshit I'll climb better
not fully bs, just not that important
a lighter frame makes climbing much easier, and alu is very stiff which means none of the power you produce will be wasted on frame flex, it'll all go to propelling you forwards. however, unless you're racing at a fairly high level, it doesn't make enough of a difference to matter

>no good bottom brackets
i still smell bs. maybe if its some weird italian size like 70mm, or you had some old crank style, or the bike was a BSO from walmart or something that isn't made out of real bike parts. for normal 68mm, and 73mm oversized there's a ton of options out there that are ok

>steel makes roads feel smother
it does, but again, if you aren't riding hard or for long distances it isn't enough of a difference to matter at all. steel frames flex slightly, especially with a good steel fork. that helps soak up some of the vibrations from the road. alu is very stiff, and you'll feel the texture of the road more, but it really doesn't make that much of a difference

>far lighter
i suspect based on what lbs man said about your bb that you may be riding some kind of BSO, in which case yeah, anything good will be way way lighter. modern high quality steel frames are still going to be heavier than alu and carbon, but again, unless you're racing it doesn't matter that much

you're gonna be fine buying a alu road bike if you have the cash for it, so i wouldn't stress this too much

/n/ about to get into some money for a decent purchase. am torn between drops and flats. never owned a bike before.

>>1050444
drops are much more comfy once they're set up right because they don't twist your wrist
however, flat bars are simpler to set up and most people learn to ride on a flat bar bike when they're kids, so they're more familiar

the different styles of bars matter most for specific types of riding
>road
you basically have to have drops. flats will make you slower and are very uncomfortable after ~20 miles

>mtb
flats or very wide dirt drops are best to give you control on rough terrain. distances are shorter than road, so comfort is less of an issue

if you're planning on riding longer distances on pavement, then lean towards drops, and for mtb, lean towards flats, but try both out.

most bike shops will be happy to let you rent a bike for a few days before you buy it so you can make up your mind

>>1050459
>you basically have to have drops. flats will make you slower and are very uncomfortable after ~20 miles
There are plenty of people that ride shorter distances and don't care about being a couple mph slower, so no drops are not a must for road riding. Also with the addition of some extensions you can add an extra and more comfortable hand position.

One of the advantages of flat bar road bikes is they're generally cheaper (or better spec for the same price), especially if you go for hydraulic disc brakes.

>>1050444
If you've never owned a bike before and thus not ridden much (perhaps not at all) the narrowness and forward positioning of drop bars is going to be very off-putting, you may end up trying the drops once and hating it and then only ever using the hoods.

How are Raleigh and Diamondback bicycles? Learned that I get a discount through work and was wondering if they had anything good for a beginner.

What's the $400-500 Mountain Bike of choice? I'd like to be able to do trails since I live in Austin and apparently there are boatloads of fun ones around here.

>>1051092
>austin
hey man, i'm from that area too, austin is awesome
>fun trails here
fuck yeah, we've got everything from some pretty gnarly stuff to a lot of fairly easy, but fun trails that you can ride with pretty much anything. i'm not a mtb guy, i mainly commute and do road rides, but my 90s rigid has no problems at all on most of the longer, milder trails around here
>$400-500 mtb
don't buy new in that price range, go check on craigslist
in general when buying a mtb, stay away from full squish setups < $1000 because they're either old, meaining that the seals will all be worn out, or they're really cheap BSO shit.
you can get a good hardtail rig used for around that price range, or a very nice 90s rigid for < $200
in general, as long as you stay away from BSO shit, most stuff you can find on craigslist will be plenty of bike for just crusing around and having fun here, unless you want to go on some really hard stuff, in which case you need to spend more money