/BQG/ - Bike Questions General

Any online guides or resources on how to get things attached to bike?
I want to move a full-sized mirror from IKEA to my house, no subway options, and don't want to ask for a car. Also, most of the way is by the bike lanes, about 10km.

So, how do I? Inb4 rope, wagon

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>>1038145
>Does it matter at all if I use a shimano deore xt cassette and chain with a sram x9 derailleur?

repostan

>>1038140
>full sized mirror
>on a bike
That's gonna end up in disaster

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>>1038151
I was hoping for something like this, but no idea how to properly fix it.

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>>1038151
best way is to carry on your back

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>>1038140
>full size mirror
Glass breaks if it bends, so unless that mirror has a very stable backing, you'll need to bring along a similar sized bit of plywood to rest it on, or actually build a rack. Look up ideas for transporting surfboards to see how you could attach it to your bike. Doing >>1038153
isn't going to result in a sufficiently rigid base

Personally I would not bother, haven't you ever noticed that professionals who move big panes of glass actually use specially outfitted vehicles? There are some rare kinds of cargo where you really need a properly outfitted vehicle, in this case something with a solid bed that you can lay the mirror on during its trip. Hire a car/pickup truck, there's no more shame in it for something like this.

>>1038149
Shimano and SRAM cassettes and chains are interchangeable

>>1038156
It is already framed in a wooden frame, so I see no problem.

Once again:
HOW DO I FIX IT,
not which way do I transport it.

>>1038158
Surfboard rack. Will probably cost you more than the mirror unless you have stuff lying around that you could bodge one together. That's the only way I can see would make sense for somethhing of those dimensions. Expect it to shatter if you hit a bump though.

>>1038158
As a delivery expert, I say mount it on your handlebars and install full rainfenders. Use it as your makeup and ride bike.

You will save so much time installing a full body mirror on the handlebars selfies will save you time commuting!

>>1038140
Is it your life's ambition to come up with the most unbearable transportation method for a shitty IKEA piece?
Call a cab FFS.

>>1038161
Not him but that's my life ambtion

It's fun.

Is there resources for bike riding.?

Looking to buy a bike for exercise/travel to uni

>>1038170
Why don't you just grab the back of a car or truck

If you pussy then you can even try doing it not illegeally

Can I use canti levers if I replace my canti with linear pulls

>>1038212
Linear pull what? Side pull caliper and mini-V are generally compatible with cantilever type brake levers. Other linear types vary.

I know there are threads about winter commuting, but they are all dead.
I'm looking for a proper winter cycling clothing and I'm honestly at loss. I need something to use up to -10°C at least. Is shimano performance windbreak jacket something worth buying, or is it just wasting money on the brand? What jackets would you recommend?
What about layers below? Is underamour worth the price? Maybe you have some sets to recommend?

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TFW the flattest exit from my home is a 7% grade and it kicks my ass
Best way to get good at climbs or are the yahoo spoon-feed me articles accurate enough?

>>1038227
4 degrees isn't a climb.

>>1038228
It is if it goes on long enough.
And like I said, it only gets steeper from here, I don't want to take the 4° east exit if I'm going west.

>>1038234
It's almost nothing, the extra effort required over riding on perfectly level ground is so minimal that the distance would need to be very long to be significant.

If you can't handle a 4 degree "climb" then perhaps you should get a car.

>>1038235
Are you illiterate or what?

>>1038251
Ignore him, he's just trying to look tough on the internet.

>>1038251
No, but you're a babby legged casual.

>>1038235
I can hit about 30 mph with a 53x14 on 7% grades with my road bike. I can hold this for a few miles before I burn out. I always end up running out of gearing with a 46t when in route to the my regular roads.. I understand you think you are some eilte rider that 'knows' everything about biking but I think you are just weak as fuck.

>>1038254 >>1038255 >>1038257
Any answers though? I can see how big all your dicks are, but I just use my bike for daily commute, and don't want to show up to work with shredded knees.

>>1038261
To get good at climbing you climb. A lot. It's the rule with pretty much anything, anon.

>>1038218
Linear pull brakes. My bike originally cane with canti brakes and I cannot for the life of me get them set up perfectly despite numerous YouTube videos. I have a set of linear pulls that I bought from a Walmart bike from an auction ( 2 bucks )

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>>1038279

>>1038279
>Linear pull brakes.
Yes, but linear pull WHAT KIND of brake? V? What size? Caliper? Something else?

>>1038286
My bad. They are v brakes

>>1038290
Then answer is no, they will not work. Your levers pull too little wire.

I'm 6'4 and 280 pounds. I want to buy a bike for commuting between work and other travels. It's 10 miles each way in florida so everything is flat and paved.

I don't want to spend a fortune so I've been looking at the Trek 7.2 FX and it seems like everything I need. does anyone with more experience know if the poor bicycle would crumple with my weight? any other recommendations such as fat people seats/saddles?

HOWDY I HAVE A SMALL PENIS (2 inches flacid 3.5 inches erect if you're curious) SO WHEN I WEAR MY CYCLING SHORTS IT'S EMBARRASSING. WHAT ARE MY OPTIONS?

>>1038319
Don't get off your bike

>>1038319
Water bottle down shorts, or a can of pringles

>>1038293
I have a friend who's 300 pounds and he rides all sorts of bikes, never known him break any. As a heavier rider you'll want to run wider tires, and your wheels will need to be trued more often then they would under someone lighter, but otherwise the same rules apply as to anyone else. What you'll find comfortable will largely be a matter of personal choice - the flabbier you are, the more you'll want a bike that allows you to sit back and cruise (until you get into better shape), but if you're 280 pounds of muscle then there's no reason at all to avoid something more aggressive.

>>1038319
work on developing impressively muscular legs, they'll serve as a distraction

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Experience with
>Kettler Alu Rad Dixie?
>previous Winora stolen

I have a pre-created GPX route, how the fuck do I use this to navigate
I can't import a GPX file into any Maps app

Allright so I have a specialized AWOL which I'm going to tour south island on NZ with. When I toured Iceland with a 11-36 back and 34/46 front I felt the gearing didn't go quite as low as I wanted.
Since 34 is the lowest SRAM apex will go I'm now thinking of chaning to an 28/42 x7 front. I'll change out the whole thing cranks bb and all

but when I pitched this to my LBS they said it's not certain to work, even if I changed the front derailleur to x7 too. Something about frame geometry I i remember correctly
Is this true? Has anyone tried it? I don't want to spend a couple of hundred dollars just to get fucked in the butt

>>1038480
Do you have 10 speed in the back so you can switch to 11-42?

Only reason I can think of that would prevent you fitting a smaller chainring (assuming the BCD goes low enough) is clearance for the chain to go over the chainstay. Even in that case as long as you stick to the larger cogs in the rear whilst in the smaller chainring it should be okay.

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>>1038480
When? Whats your plan for the route? I'm probably goin back in a month or so on my gunnar. Worked down there a while and know it pretty well. It's an amazing place.

Can't help you on the tech side sorry, don't know sram or spesh, but i'm sure lots of people have wanted lower gearing on an awol. The coolest places are in the alps there, and there are some very serious climbs (some gravel), harder than anything in the north island, you're right to want low gears. I just did 2 weeks on a 28/39/53 & 11-34 which was great in the north island (still some big climbs) but ill swap to a 12-36 before i go.

>>1038480
It can _generally_ be made to work and many monster cross builds are set up this way. Q-factor will most likely be the noticeable downside, but chainline issues are possible.
I'd probably much rather get a low-Q 50/28 touring chainset and accept that there might be some residual chain scrape against the derailleur in the low ring that can't quite be tweaked out.

Assuming you really _need_ that low a gear. I mean, at a cadence of 80-ish that's mighty slow even on fat tyres. You're almost better off getting off and walking at that point.

>>1038482
ya it's a ten speed but going from 36-42 is only like half as big a change as going from 34 to 28 in the front, right? Also I'm not sure my x9 rear derailleur will work with a 42, sram doesn't even make 11-42 cassettes i think.

>>1038484
I'm leaving in 12 days with a friend, we're going to go around the south island, we have six weeks. We haven't really planned route at all and that's really how we like it to be. take everything a few days beforehand. If we have time we'll try to go to the north island but we fly from and to christchurch. I have a feeling you will always want lower gears :^) but is it mostly long climbs or are they steep and short? Iceland was super hilly with like three or four climbs that were like 500-600m in one go (those weren't too steep) but the hills were usually super steep altough short. Some gravel roads were literally impossible for me to climb, my back wheel just kept slipping when I couldn't get a lower cadence. My friend and I both work as messengers so long climbs aren't that much of an issue since we're both really fit, I'm more worried about the steepness. Also what tire width would you recommend, I'm guessing 32c marathons is too thin? Maybe like 35/37?
Do you have any recs on some not-so-obvious spots??

>>1038487
Sorry I'm not that knowledgeable on bikes, what's q-factor? And who manufactures 50/28 double fronts (assuming i understood you correctly)? That would be awesome.

>>1038500
34:42 isn't quite as low as 28:36 but it's close, 32:42 would be pretty much the same.

I assumed you had Shimano as some SRAM stuff goes down to 10t, no idea if anyone makes a SRAM 10 speed cassette that goes up to 42 (Shimano doesn't either, it'd be either a Sunrace one or an expander cog). No idea if the derailer would support it, with Shimano it's recommended to modify the derailer with a longer link between it and the frame.

Q factor is the measurement between the crank arms, measured from the outer surface where the pedal mounts. Mountain bike stuff is typically wider.

>>1038465
What are you using to navigate, your phone? Before I got a garmin I used my phone with Strava and used their routing feature. If you just have a gpx file you can convert it to a strava route with this tool: http://labs.strava.com/gpx-to-route

>>1038502
allright thanks. Isn't most stuff fixable with spacers? If that's made for cranks axles...

Man the dream would be to keep my 46 and then get like a 30 or 28. Is there any way this would be possible?

>>1038509
>allright thanks. Isn't most stuff fixable with spacers?
No. Spacers would put your feet further apart. You can't add a spacer that reduces something - that's not what spacers do.
>the dream would be to keep my 46 and then get like a 30 or 28
Not possible. The smallest ring you can mount is determined by the diameter of the mounting bolts. They obviously need to fit inside the ring without interfering with the teeth. You chainset will almost certainly not accept much smaller rings than what you have.

Specialty chainsets like the Sugino OX601D can do what you want, but they're expensive. DuraAce level expensive.

>>1038510
>Sugino OX601D
What's so special about that? I don't see why you couldn't achieve the same thing with a triple crankset and moving the largest ring to the middle position. With a MTB crankset that'll get you 48 to 22, road I don't think can go quite that low but it can go higher.

>>1038512
>I don't see why you couldn't achieve the same thing with a triple crankset
Q-factor and chain ring spacing. It triple chainset Q is acceptable to you, why not buy a fucking triple group?
>With a MTB crankset
See above.

>>1038514
Because triples are for casuals of course. Personally I'd take the wider Q factor to save a shit load of cash. So, are there no other doubles out there that use granny ring PCDs for the inner ring?

>>1038516
>triple is for casuals but a triple with the wrong length bottom bracket and missing a ring is a-ok
>alternatively a triple with the wrong chainline and missing a ring
>alternatively inset outer chainring and fucked up shifting but who wanna be a faggot casual right
Yeah dude, so hardcore and non-casual. You are fast approaching VeganRider levels of stupidity.

Newguy here, considering one of these two for cruising around town/ to work. Any thoughts? And yeah that's my price range right now

http://houston.craigslist.org/bik/5915255712.html

http://houston.craigslist.org/bik/5940868893.html

>>1038520
It was a joke buddy.

Is there some kind of large online outlet store for random bike parts? (available in Canada)

>>1038524
Wiggle and ChainReaction Cycles ship to Canada. What do you mean by outlet store?

>>1038524
In the same vein, is there a bike parts site with free shipping? Probikekit used to have it when you spent a certain amount, but that's long gone. If the chinks can do it, why can't bongs?

anyone heard of/backed zwatt powermeters ?

the dudes behind it are no amateurs but we have only 1 (promising) review from dcrainmaker yet.

though manufacturing only begins in february so i think feedback on the product should come soon

opinions ?

I'm working on an old schwinn tempo made of tenax tubing. I'm trying to run brake housing on the 3 top guide but they don't fit. Is 4mm brake housing a thing ?

>>1038428
I don't know anything about it but that's a beautiful bike. well, the saddle is hideous, but otherwise beautiful.

>>1038138
I will need new tyres soon, 700x25 or 28c. I can't decide between cheap and puncture resistant like maxxis refuse or more expensive gp4ks. Any other good value tyres I should be looking for? Most riding is a few hours up and down hills up to 100km and light touring

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I always woundered how the fuck do the "bike packers" fit enough gear inside their oversized saddle bag and frame bag without missing any essentials to stay on the road for at least 3 days+?

I mean on a touring bike, shit is attached all over the frame but the bike packing memesters have jack fucking shit. Do they just go on 2 day rides and stay in hotels?

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Built a Brodie Romax SSCX bike. In order to get the same reach/stack as my Marin geared CX bike I had to put about a 20mm spacer under the stem. The stem is slammed on the Marin.

Should I harden up and slam the stem on the Brodie too? The stem's slammed on my Bianchi road bike too.

>>1038600
Well, I presume they also have a backpack.

>>1038580
I liked the GP 4Seasons while I still ran clinchers.

>>1038580
I used to run gp4kII's and they're decent tyres. Commuted on them and did a small 400km tour on them, they roll noticably better than the schwalbe duranos that i replaced for them. Look out for a sale though, not sure they're worth full RRP.

>>1038280
Yeah if you're gonna put V-Brakes (aka linear pulls) you're gonna need new brake levers

and since your levers are integrated with your shifters, new shifters too

>>1038533
Yeah, its called your LBS
ride there, buy parts, no shipping

Can I swap an 11-34 10-speed Deore cassette for an 11-34 10-speed Tiagra cassette?

>>1038580
Michelin Lithions are a good compromise

>>1038635
You should ride however you feel comfortable

>>1038678
Yes

>>1038665
>no shipping
Right, except for the shipping when they order the parts you wanted

>>1038600
>I mean on a touring bike, shit is attached all over the frame but the bike packing memesters have jack fucking shit. Do they just go on 2 day rides and stay in hotels?
front and rear panniers are 70L if you cant fit all you need in there you are packing too much
it's piss easy to fit as much as you need in bikepacking bags

Got some Northwave Sonic 2 Carbons and some 105 pedals... never riden clipless before. Am I going to die?

>>1038703
prob not- My first foray into clipless was with mtb- got stuck in pedal and fell 6ft into a creek but wasn't hurt- just embarrassed.

>>1038705

Ah, but this is road riding where men are made. I won't fall in to a creek, I will fall in to traffic.

>>1038706
You'll probably fall over once or twice and it will be very embarassing, but you'll soon get used to it.

>>1038707

Thanks gents. I'm not the first and I won't be he last- I'm sure it will go fine after a bit of practice in the back yard and street outside my house.

>>1038715
I've only ever unclip-failed once. It was on a charity ride with people from work and I was trying to look cool trackstanding. I started with regular SPD's which are generally easier to use and I still have them on my tourer/commuter. SPD-SL feel nicer to ride on but take a bit more getting used to.

>>1038703
No, you're just going to fall at 0 km/h on a red light and make a fool of yourself. Once.

>>1038138
If I am just looking for a good bike that I will use solely for the city what will I have to pay?
And what would I get?
Is there anything to look out for apart from it having two wheels and proper frame height for my height?

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>>1038768
>If I am just looking for a good bike that I will use solely for the city what will I have to pay?
Impossible to say without knowing your standards. The Kona Tonk is awesome, so I'll suggest it and we can go from there. It's basically a much more comfortable and practical road bike and costs about €900. How's that?

On the other end of the spectrum you have the decidedly non-roadbike Dew and Coco - both good options for their class and a bit cheaper.
>And what would I get?
Again, without knowing what properties you would value and how much money you could stand to part with to get it, it's much too vaguely formulated to be answered.

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Worth it for $250? I've got a Raleigh Revenio 2.0 for longer distance, but I've been looking for something to tool around town on I don't have to worry about getting stolen as much.

Specialized Aluminium Frame
SRAM GXP 44t Crankset / 165mm (shorter crank length eliminates bottoming out on the pavement around corners)
VP - low profile platforms with spikes (my new favorite pedal)
White Industry ENO eccentric hub w/ 17t White Industry Cog
28mm Schwalbe Marathon Supreme tires on 700c Alex Adventure
Tektro Front V Brake

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>>1038600
I broke the hose clamps holding my lowrider racks after a week on the road and paired down from a carradice nelson, 2 back roller classics, 2 front panniers & a basket zip tied to a nitto m12 to just the saddlebag, the basket, and one front pannier as a rack top bag.

I left the majority of my stuff with a guy i met at a pub and came back a week later for it.

I kept my tent, cooking equipment and everything essential. Credit card touring it'd be even easier. After another week i broke a weld on my nitto rack, but that was only because i was carrying a huge box of food, enough for around 4 days, with a lot of water weight in fruit and vegetables, maybe even like 25kg.

The classic 4 pannier, handlebar bag & saddlebag is basically overkill with modern gear. Shit is SO much lighter now than it used to be, if you're willing to pay for it. Some people just enjoy suffering i guess.

Any piece of clothing that doesn't layer effectively for warmth, or gives you more than you need, is superfluous. People carry so much stupid shit. I met a guy with a new rig, custom canada built frame, ss couplers, full ortlieb pannier setup, atleast 5k into this setup, beer belly, and he had 5 tubes and 2 spare mondials, or some heavier bullshit tire with a dead ride. I got 1 pinch flat that i deserved in the last 6 months on my 300gram cheap paselas and this guy had over a kg of SPARE tires, for a first world country full of bike shops.

Bikepacking is an absolute meme but so is the traditional touring kitchen sink approach.

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>>1038500
>We haven't really planned route at all and that's really how we like it to be. take everything a few days beforehand.

That's the way man. In most of the South Island, you'll be able to freecamp where ever you want. You could plan an hour ahead the whole time. Many people, especially Euros or Aucklanders, will get fined (normally $200) for freecamping. if you set up camp in the evening and leave in the morning, pack out all your rubbish (inc organic waste ie. an apple core),and any other rubbish there,dig a hole if you need to shit, don't light fires and are friendly to anyone you encounter, you can basically do as you please. I've camped next to no free camping signs, and met DOC rangers (department of conservation) who see us being conscientious and don't give a fuck. Some spots are legal, some are illegal, but most is a grey area. There is only 1 dangerous animal in NZ and it will only hurt you by accident (drink driving is our national passtime), if you fuck with them (no one in the city has a gun, everyone in the country has a rifle and goes pig hunting), or if they're on meth. You won't encounter many meth heads in the most isolated, beautiful spots with the best riding.

The coolest spots are in a mountain range which runs almost the whole island. When i lived down there, the 13-23 30/39/53 gears on my Moser which were perfect for Auckland (a hilly city surrounded by good climbs), were not right at all. Anything past 1:1 is 'good enough'. You'll also want shoes that are good for walking in. An Awol is an excellent bike to have.

I'd leave Christchurch immediately and head up to Arthur's Pass. The entire west coast from Picton to Milford is awesome. Fuck the East Coast, unless you like riding through boring farmland. Even though it is summer, plan for alpine conditions.

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>>1038500
35/37 is probably right. Slicks & fenders, slicks or knobblies are all good options. I would never run a really puncture resistant tire in NZ, or carry a spare. I do 35mm paselas, 1 tube and some park patches. Our money is a great tire boot, but i've only needed that flogging old tires that are worn bare or underbiking gravel on 23s. You can easily get replacement tires, parts, and access tools in every geezers shed here. If you need any welding done, talk to a local hoon with a loud fast illegal piece of shit car

>>1038765

Yeah- I went straight to the SPD-SL. I'm almost more worried about not being able to clip in.

>>1038846
An Italian bike mech told me once that you fall i fall lance armstrong falls we all fall

I don't know shit about bikes but I remember thoroughly enjoying my cycle as a kid. Any recommendations in terms of literature / websites to gain general cycle knowledge / maintenance info? Also, is it possible to get a half decent bike for 500USD or less?

>>1038884
Absolutely yes if you spend time learning maintenance and repair. You can buy all kinds of rigid 90s mountain bikes and convert them into slammed stem fixie road bikes and be the envy of every non cyclist hipster.

There's a bike I'd be keen on fixing up, it's missing a rear derailleur. I have access to another bike and my question is would I be able to take the rear derailleur off this one and put it onto the other? They both have 5 gears on the rear and it would be going from 3 to 2 gears on the front. Would it be compatible?

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>>1038922
probably.

>>1038922
>>1038884
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/
>>1038884
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://janheine.wordpress.com/
http://yarchive.net/bike/index.html
http://en.universewithme.com/

>>1038922
If they're both 5-speed rear, then yes, essentially any derailer will work in that situation because the bikes will have friction shifters that don't care what's on the other end of the cable.

As for the front derailer, that depends - if the old front derailer is for a mountain bike triple crankset it probably won't clear the largest chainring of a road double. Try it and see.

>>1038929
Thanks anon. The front derailleur is all g it's just the rear I'd like to save a little money on

>>1038784
Is there an actual difference? I mean, what exactly will a pricy bike do better than a cheap one?
Aren't they all more or less the same with maybe some minor differences that a very experienced driver might be able to appriciate, but the average joe wouldn't even notice?

If I buy a fork with a carbon steerer to replace my alu steerer (I'm scared of the bond failing because its a fairly old beaten up second hand bike) do I still have to use carbon assembly paste to attatch the non-carbon stem?

>>1038715

It only took me one fall to get used to unclipping, now it's just second nature.


I was doing hill reps round a 5km loop, which has a roundabout at the second loop. I was slowing coming down from the last descent pretty cooked about to go home, wasnt really looking at the roundabout until after I should have been. There was a car coming round it, so I panic stopped quickly before the line and tried to put my foot down and ungracefully toppled over in front of thw forming queue of cars. Now I just make sure that I unclip whilst rolling before stopping at lights etc. The only sketchy thing sometimes is that I always unclip my non drive side foot, and if I stop wrong and my balance is to the right, I have to quickly unclip and put that foot down instead.

It's just embarassing, you'd be doing quite well to actually hurt yourself from a stationary fall, just be careful in slow moving traffic.

can someone tell me what the practical and functional differences between shimano slr and slr ev? what would happen if I were to say, run 7700 DA shifters to slr ev brakes?

>>1038950
k I found this
http://blog.artscyclery.com/ask-a-mechanic/ask-a-mechanic-brake-lever-and-caliper-cross-compatibility/
nm I guess? I still don't understand the routing of shifting cables is related to braking performance.
they seem to have manufactured levers with New Super SLR, Super SLR, and SLR EV technologies, none of which are present in ST 7700. if I understand correctly SLR technology was first introduced in the late 80's
(from sheldon brown's website)
>SLR was introduced with the 105 group in the late '80s.

>>1038950
Don't worry about it.

>>1038956
speaking of things that shouldn't be done: I wanna put a 7700 gruppo on this frame http://xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1297

>>1038957
naw man naw

waste money on oldschool campy or bust

How to I turn corners properly? Unless I slow right down I feel like I'm going to fall off. Today my bike nearly slid out from under me. It's not like I'm going fast - I'm a lazy commuter, not a wannabe racer.

Am I likely to be doing something in particular wrong, or am I just terrible?

>>1038979
Check your wheel dish and spoke tension. Check you tyre pressure and rubber condition, Check your headset pre-tension. Check your hubs for play. If it's none of all that then it's probably just you.

>>1038979
Are you actually losing traction? If so it could be because your tyres are shit or they're just mismatched to the terrain you're riding. It could also be how you're actually taking the turn, perhaps you're not leaning over enough (you get more grip as your weight forces the tyre into the ground, if you're more upright that weight tries to push the bike sideways).

>>1038942
cheap bikes
like under 200$ department store cheap; will self destruct within 6 months due to poor component quality and imporpor assembly/adjustment

3-400$ range from an actual bike shop is OK for basic riding, but no offroading, no racing, and no cargo/utility

500$+ is good, longer bike lifespan, you can expect this to not just break on its own. abilities to actually do stuff with the bike appear here. if you're a fatass, buy at this range because cheaper than this will have a weaker rear wheel and axle that fattasses will chronically be breaking.

>>1038982
I did lose traction this afternoon - as I said, the bike nearly slid out from under me. Pretty sure leaning over more would only make that worse.

They're road tyres and I'm riding on mostly okay road. They're a few years old, but I haven't gone that many miles on them.

Mostly I just feel dangerously unstable trying to make anything more than a very gentle turn at low speed.

>>1038261
Im sorry man long time lurker but you sound like a pussy

>>1038987

It literally just comes with experience. It should feel fairly natural after a while, anything above like 8mph turns I just instinctively tilt the bike rather than turn the bars.

Outside foot should be pressing down on the pedal and the inside leg should be bent with the pedal at the top of the stroke, you can cock your knee out a bit too, that helps me with stability. Counteract the outside foot pressure with inside hand pressure on the bars, dont lean too much with the bike, just tilt it underneath you.

Dont brake round corners, approach the corner and brake beforehand to the speed you want to take it at. If it is a bit fast you can feather the rear brake a bit but dont touch the front brake. My advice would be find a quiet place, like a curvy park path, and practice just scrubbing off a little less speed before each corner. It does take time to build cornering confidence though.

>>1038991

Dont tense up either. The bike is much more stable than you think in corners. If you keep loose and relaxed, then you'll stay the right side up. If its a road bike it is designed to do exactly this.

>>1038836
>>1038839
Thanks so much for the info guy!

So it's easy to find good spots? In Iceland I had trouble finding good stuff because most tentable land was farmland and there aren't any trees on Iceland. I just use the spot for the night, leave no trace and shit in public toilets. The only thing that worries me is how cold it gets at night, what sleeping bag rating should I bring? I had trouble finding info on how cold it gets at night.

How often can you get supplies? Are there grocery stores you can pass by daily?

And we really want to get to the southwestern parts, do you think it's worth to take a bus down the east coast to Dunedin, and then use that saved time to maybe go to the northern island? So we'll go down the east coast with bus and then ride up the west coast with bikes up to the northern island, do some shit there and then go back to christchurch by bike.

I'll probably go with my 35c marathons in that case, not having a puncture in like two years of almost daily at least 60km riding kinda makes me feel safe with them :^)
thanks again!

>>1038983
Do I just go by price or is there any better way of recognizing a proper bike?
And yeah, I'm 194cm 110kg

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I have a bianchi carus 909 in good condition in 58.
how much is it worth ?

>>1039061
bout tree fiddy

>>1039062

if it only way that easy.

I was thinking about 100 - 150 € ?

>>1039065
Is that a picture of your actual bike? What components does it have? Wheels? Saddle? Pink stem? Paint condition?

>>1039024
Not that previous guy, but since you're new to bikes, retail price is the simplest thing to look at. The key factor when buying an inexpensive bike is to get it from a reputable source that can be trusted to have assembled the bike properly, so definitely buy from a bike shop, not a mega-retailer chain or general sporting goods shop. There are other things to look at, specific components and features, but evaluating a bike by looking at individual parts requires a fair bit of knowledge and experience.

>>1039061
Can you post a picture? price is going to vary depending on condition/build/appearance. For example the bike pictured might go for $200 on Craigslist where I live the USA, but if it were a Celeste frame or had STI levers instead of downtube shifters it'd command $400+. For what the bike is worth in your market, I would browse your local market and see what average asking price for a basic late 80's/early 90's road bike without brifters is.

>>1039067

not mine,
sadly the stem is silver , but it's a very nicley formed stem , looks like 3t but I'm not sure right now.

saddle is celeste, bartape and hoods are white
it's running a full 105 group with colour matched pedals ( I think look pedals).
wheels are 105 hubs and fir el19 rims

also the paint is in superb condition.

I got the bike from a guy I worked for but it's too big for me. I don't think is has been run that much.

>>1039070
>>1039068

also down tube shifters and the same colourway
sticker says it's columbus cromor

>>1039071
I think you could unironically sell it for bout tree fiddy

>>1039075

that would be unironically great.

>>1038788
i-is that the boardwalk at Point Pelee?

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I'm 6 foot, with an inseam of about 31-32 inches. Could I ride an old Raleigh 3-speed with a 51 cm/20 inch frame with little issue?

Or should I ask this in the bike buying general?

>>1039184
pretty small imho - you want to be 57 or up i'd think ?

>>1039184
No, that's way too small.

>>1039185
Crud. The big ones are harder to find.

>>1039187
Would it be extremely uncomfortable to ride? I mean like one of the old roadsters that I would use for city riding.

>>1039187
Wait, too small? They only made those bikes in two sizes, 51 and 56 cm.

I've got some 2000 ssc mavic ksyriums that say they'll fit up to a 23c tyre, if i put 25's will the beads hop off the rims or burst into flames as I ride? I think they might be 15c rims from memory, haven't measured them.

>>1039217
You want someone on here to sue if shit goes south or are you gonna stop being a pussy and do it ?

I have an aluminum seatpost rusted into a steel frame. For the love of god someone tell me that they've been able to get one out before.

I've had no luck with liquid wrench, and I'm going to try the sheldon brown method of soaking it upside down with ammonia, but I'm worried it wont penetrate

>>1039222
You can cut it out. Aluminium is soft and easy to work through, so cut the seat post off a centimetre or so above the frame, stick a hacksaw blade down the hole and get to work. When you have a slit through the length of the seatpost stub you clamp on the bit that sticks up and pull it out.

>>1039219
I just want to know if they're able to fit bigger tyres anon, calm your tits.

>>1039222
If it's a round seatpost, the easiest way to get it out is to cut it a couple of inches from where it enters the seat tube, drill a hole from one side of the seat post through to the other that's big enough to fit a metal rod into.
When you put the rod through the hole. You can use it to twist and pull at the same time, which should be enough to free all but the worst posts; otherwise you'll have to take the risk of cutting at it.
Don't forget to clean inside the seat tube and grease the new post anon!

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>>1039217
>>1039237

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Help me pick a handlebar?

I just ebayed a 1991 Cannondale ST600

Pic related is roughly what I'm going to build it into

But I want STIs and a different handlebar.

What would you put on it? I'd like to preserve the quill stem, so 25.4 ... touring mode -- comfy and wide prefered 44/46cm

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>>1039286

Here one is stock, check out the bar-end 7 speed grip shifters.

I might actually keep them if they aren't completely shit and ride 2x7

Any other ideas for this bike appreciated.

The dumb part of me wants to meme this up with a 11x42t cassette, full frame bag, etc.

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>>1039286

Here are some nitto grand rando bars that I'm considering

>>1039282
Thanks laddy, i think the 25 would do fine.
The aim is to build an enduro bike someday with a 25 front and a 28 rear for comfy century rides someday but for now the 25's will be a nice improvement.

>>1039286
Why do you want different handlebars when you haven't even tried those yet?

>>1039291
>enduro
I suppose you mean "endurance"

>>1039296
>Why do you want different handlebars when you haven't even tried those yet?

I can tell from the visual that they are ergo-bend, and don't have any back sweep, both I don't like. Also since it's 1991 they are probably narrower than I like... 38-40cm I bet

>>1039296

Actually those aren't even the stock ones, the bike will come with these >>1039289

They don't have the modern top-of-hoods flat section that 99% of people prefer

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what road tyres does anon suggest for a 26" MB?

>>1039317
Assuming you have typical 26" rims that are wider to accept MTB tires, Panaracer Paselas are a good option. If you have narrow rims, go for the Continental Grand Prix 26"

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>>1039318

thanks anon

>>1039317

If you can afford them, Schwalbe Marathon Supremes in 26" are amazingly fast and comfy --- no flats ever

>>1039317
If you want something chunky Geax Booze Lights are decent and much lighter than most other similar tyres.

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>>1039335
>>1039337

thanks anon, I'll also check out your suggestions

>>1039317
>>1039355

High Tier:

* Compass cycles tires
* Marathon Supremes

Medium Tier:

* Kojaks
* Paselas

Cheap Tier

* Nashbar Streetwise --- $15 and 60 tpi --- very fast, very cheap, but you will probably get flat tires once in a while

>>1039356

/n/ is really the home of the nicest anons

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>>1039286
I have cinelli bars on my 90's road bike. I like the shape of the campione del mondo, Giro d'italia's are probably the most comfortable to ride on the hoods though. 26mm clamp though so you'd need a different stem. I use a Cinelli XA which is one of the cleanest looking quills.

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>>1039286
Unless you want to keep the bars you have, get a 26mm quill. You can easily shim 25.4 bars to fit it, but if you stretch it open for 26 bars it will fatigue and crack (been there done that). All the nice reproduction oldschool bars are 26mm.

I ride the nitto d hard and am basically a nitto shill, but my 44cm noodles are probably my favorite bike part. I've had them on my main ride for years, they're the main reason it's my main ride, and even now i have a modern bike with oversized tubing and a threadless stem i wouldn't change them. They've been crashed a lot too and they don't give a fuck.

Keep all the tubing as narrow as possible for aesthetics, but with your funky allum frame you could bend those rules with some chunky wabi sabi pieces. Please please no awful threadless adapter.

>>1038227
You aren't using your gears correctly (if you have). For climbing you switch to a smaller cog and a big sprocket.

But then again (as someone already said) 4° isn't much of a climb.

My question is: how much distance do you have till work? Maybe you are just starting to bike and just can't stand that much distance yet.

So, my two words at it:

-Try getting a geared bike. If you already do, learn to use your gears properly.

-Use your bike more often.

>>1039478
>You aren't using your gears correctly (if you have). For climbing you switch to a smaller cog and a big sprocket.
I lol'ed but actually have some success climbing hard out of the saddle and coasting down the far side to recuperate, especially on the much steeper hills.
>Maybe you are just starting to bike and just can't stand that much distance yet.
I rode a BSO for a few years until it accumulated too much frame wear. I have a nice new road bike now, but I haven't been riding for about 10 months. Work is about 20km away. (But then involves using my legs for heavy lifting).

I've been improving rapidly since I made that post, since I'm trying a new route with rapid 8-10 degree ups and downs for almost the whole way.

>>1039371
>Cinelli XA

Wow these are nice. I will keep that in mind. The bars look sweet but the hood position i'm imagining looks a little rough for a touring bikeu

But they look period correct... hard to decide if I should keep everything early-90s or not

>>1039448
>Please please no awful threadless adapter.

Hello Gunnar man

You are right. I will keep it quill. And black. You are clearly up on your aesethics. I've got a Wabi Sabi book I've never finished. Any other advice is appreshed

I'm leaning noodle. Maybe 45cm. Black bar tape

Back to aesthetics, I know your bike has downtube shifters and looks like 60cm.... how annoying was that for touring

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I just bought a new bike, pic related. I wanted something I could carry with me easily, and so far it seems to fit the bill, but I've run into a strange problem.

I took it out riding today for its second voyage, and I noticed that as I pedaled (and the more I pedaled/faster I pedaled) there was a consistent clinking noise, that went away when I stopped. When I checked the bike itself, I noticed two things that seemed unusual.

1) The sound only happened when pedaling, not just by moving the wheels

2) The rear tire, when spun, did not spin for very long at all.

The latter could be a red herring (possibly badly configured brakes? I didn't hear any rubbing but I dunno), but the first is still pretty concerning. I feel like the chain is a likely cause, but I'm not much on bikes, I just know this is the place to ask about bikes.

>>1038788
I bought it. After some research I found out the hub alone was $200+ originally.

The guy I bought it from worked at a bike shop and was super chill about everything. I'm pretty sure he let it go for so little because he built it up from spare shop parts over time.

I'm so hyped to ride this thing. It's so light, 19lbs. Now to wait for it to be slightly warmer than -10f out.

>>1039080
Nope, Minneapolis

>>1038508
thanks

I live in a city, is a helmet essential. My hair goes fucking retarded after I take it off

>>1039560
Is your brain essential?

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I've got a general bike question, about weight.


Is it fair to say that, a 180 pound man on a 10 lb bike is the exact same thing as a 182 pound man on an 8 pound bike? Or is there some kind of magic I'm missing where this relationship isn't linear.

I guess the question's reasoning is obvious, but more specifically I've read some articles about how 'disk brakes are coming to road bikes' while more scrutiny is put on how sleek and light it is, more-so that it's effectiveness.

>>1039566
No, I actually read about this somewhere but fuck if I remember it

>>1039566
2kg on a bike makes a far bigger difference than 2kg on the rider, not only is it a greater percentage of the total weight of that part (riders are typically 4+ times as heavy as their bikes) but it also has a different effect.

>more scrutiny is put on how sleek and light it is, more-so that it's effectiveness.
It's really just excuses from retrogrouches who fear change. Competitive race bikes are usually a fair bit above the weight limit and could fairly easily be made under it, so there's room to get disc brake equipped bikes just as close to the limit. Also the increased performance far outweighs the slight increase in weight.

>>1039566
>Or is there some kind of magic
Yes. Throwing something else around feels different from moving your own body and the weight is in different places.

>>1038138
How long does it take to get used to a road bike? I'd been riding my mountain bike on the road for years and just spent $1000 on an entry level road bike. Got it fitted at the bike shop. I've ridden it twice and am getting some buyers remorse
>Gooch hurts caus I was stingy and havent bought riding pants yet
>Back and neck are sore because I'm not used to riding in such a low down position
>Less peripheral vision
>Riding out of the saddle feels unstable
>Hands on the hoods feels strange and I'm paranoid I won't be able to brake in time
>Brakes feel underpowered compared to the mountain bike
I feel like I'm learning to ride all over again, and have lost all my confidence when riding on the road. How long does it take to adapt?

Why do triathletes buy road bikes and not tri/tt bikes?

>>1039575
That's sort of what I thought, but haven't experienced.
Maybe in a straightaway test with ideal conditions a heavier bike would fair just fine against a lighter one, as long as the total weight in both scenarios were the same, but in reality the wheels never really just stay on a straight line.

Always wondered though, watching races you see not a little but a Lot of tire.. what would you call it, deviating back and forth from the course, how much distance is lost in all that swerving or is it negligible?


>>1039577
shouldn't take too long, but if you went with some ultra slim slick tires then that's probably your problem.
If you could get some slightly thicker tires, and use a flat bar instead of those road handles, you could ease in to the change. It's got to be a shock literally on your nervous system to have to change how your body adapts to throwing weight around on such a different machine, but you won't regret it if you get used to it and reap the benefits of a much less tiring, faster ride.

Also, if you were fitted you shouldn't be afraid to make alterations like adjusting the seat mainly, and handlebars, what makes you comfortable.

>>1039577
Sounds like the fitting did not go very well

>>1039580
A cheap road bike with some bolt on aerobars is usually much cheaper than even an entry level tt/tri bike.

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>>1039518
Not annoying at all. Excellent infact. DT shifting is just how i like it. My first road bike and my most ridden road setup both had indexed dt shifters. I'm well aware of their limitations and the excellence of integrated shifters, but my arbitrary preference based on 10 years of poorfaggery on road bikes is DT.

I think i bashed these DA ones about enough to fuck up an sti. I bent one of the shifter bosses in even, so going to the 11t scraped the tube,just bent it right back yesterday no problems. DT shifters just aren't a point of potential failure. It's also nice having a friction mode for the rear but i haven't had to use it yet. The front shifting would be tricky to setup with indexing because none of the parts are in the same series and the spread is huge.

I have some 8 speed record ergos spare which have micro ratcheting, great for running an incompatible wide triple. I think an 8 speed shimano cassette on my 6800 11 speed hub, with the spacers from an 8 speed campy cassette, and either mech might work well with 8 spd ergos, but i can't be bothered trying it out because i enjoy this 9 spd setup so much.

I am also very impressed by my cheap 9 speed acera shadow mech. I think a regular long cage mech would have gotten jacked up or atleast bent the hanger, with what i put this bike through.

>>1039518
>I'm leaning noodle
That reminds me, planet X has like every Nitto bar on sale at the moment, as well as stems and a bunch of other stuff. Dunno what they're like for international shipping sine I'm in UK but it's probably still cheaper than buying local.

http://www.planetx.co.uk/s?q=nitto

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>>1039585
does this look like an ok fit?

>>1039620
Give us a pic on the hoods, that's where you should be spending most of your time. But it doesn't look terribly out of whack.

It will take some time to build up the different muscles. Bodyweight core workouts can help speed that up.

>>1039620
No, those shorts are way too small. We can see the outline of your tightly whities.

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http://www.sportxx.ch/it/ciclisti-sports/equipaggiamento/biciclette/crosswave-s1000/pp.490173001940

i-is that a good everyday b-bike?

>>1039636
It's probably ok but a "good everyday bike" does not need suspension and those fenders are useless trash.

Could definitely do better.

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>>1039637

https://www.edileehobby.ch/hobby-+-sport/biciclette-+-accessori/city-bike-+-trekking-bike/da-uomo/trekking-bike-leopard-arrow-cat-28-man-53-cm/C08010302/P4602017/it?template=productpage&box=box3

is that better buddy?

>>1039640
Definitely more practical.

Don't know where to post this.

I have been starting to bike 8 month ago,
nothing fancy but usually I try to put 80km over the weekend.

I'm having more and more back soreness after my ride. I got my bike checked for the fit and I am doing glutes/hamstring/lower back streching regularly but this doesn't go away. Any tips guys ?

>>1039645
Are you on drop bars? If yes are all spacers under your stem or are there some above? If there are some above put one of them below the stem. If that solves the problem no need t do anything more. If it's better but still not perfect do it again with another spacer. If your stem has all the spacers under it flip the stem. If that solves the problem buy a one centimeter shorter stem (there are cheap light-ish UNO stems on ebay) and replace your old stem with it (don't flip the new stem). You might have to try several even shorter stems to find the right length.

>>1039620

Hard to say when I can't see your stomach or the nose of the saddle. Do it again without your shirt, maybe better lighting

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>>1039617

You are my muse, my candle in the night

I will go 2x9 dt shifting. Not much to lose if I want to go STI later, and I can have full A S E T H E T I C noodle bar with classic levers and no bar-ends taking away from the vibe

My first real bike was this, and it was awesome. I'm ready to go downtube again

>>1039617

I will check the prices... I see Noodles for $45 on ebay here

>>1039611
Why dt over bar ends though?

>>1039645

Where is the soreness? In your vagina?

>>1039620

My gut instinct is push the saddle forward with a zero offset seatpost then put the bars lower, and possibly a bit further out.

You look like an all-legs tall guy like myself and those two move work for me. When you jack the saddle up so high it lengthens the saddle-to-bars distance too much and puts your weight too far back, setting it up so you're very low and farther forward feels more stable and comfy

But keep in mind I have no professional experience, this is just 5 years of doing things slightly less wrong FOR ME and my human/giraffe skeletal collab

>>1039620
>does this look like an ok fit?

2nd thought I think your handlebars should be tilted forward another 10 degrees. If you have to tilt them back for comfort you need to tweak imho

3rd thought: If you are getting frustrated and can't get it right, try doing the opposite of what you think is right. I've been repeatedly surprised with bike fit issues. Like, the bike feels too long and stretched out.... and somehow dropping the bars down a whole 80mm fixes everything. Not intuitive

Ebay UNO stems are the best

>>1039648

Thanks for answering. So you say it's mainly due to the height of the stem ? As far as I can tell all the spacers are under it, I'll try to shorten that.

The problem is that it's not exactly easy for me to feel how sore my back is, so it might be hard to tell if it feels better.

>>1039653

A vagina is rarely in the back dear.

>>1039658
>boi pucci

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If i want to mount a bash guard and/or chain retainer do I need BB mount or is there something else that mounts here. I run 2x10 currently but may go to 1x freeing up this spot.

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>>1039697
I want to use something like this b/c i have cables running under my BB shell.

>>1039697
>>1039698
How is your front derailer currently mounted? That first photo looks like it might be an E-type mount (also called low direct mount, E2-type, or S3) and you can get E-type chain guides.

That guide/guard in your second photo uses the ISCG mount (there's two different ones, not sure which that is) which can be adapted to BB mount (is secured in place by being clamped between the BB cup and frame) for frames without ISCG mounts.

I would suggest first giving a narrow wide chainring a go and if you don't already have a clutched rear derailer consider getting one (not only will it increase chain retention but it'll also reduce chain slap and thus protect those carbon chainstays). If you still find yourself dropping the chain (and your chain isn't too long) then get a guide.

I wouldn't bother with a frame mounted bash guard as it's just going to bend or break and potentially damage the frame, get a crank mounted guard if you really must (as a bonus it'll help keep your pants from touching and potentially getting caught in the chain, the only reason I use one).

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>>1039702
I went with your suggestion- I never drop the chain just want to protect the cables- they hang down about to my chain ring. I found this for $5 at jensen- they also have one for $3.

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>>1039652
bar ends suck dick and dt are awesome for many reasons

Recently tried a buddy's old pair of Specialized Tahoe shoes and liked them
New Tahoe shoes are different
Are all Specialized shoes built on the same lasts? I see some older mtb shoes on closeout at a pretty good price but I don't want 'em if they don't fit like the Tahoes.

Where can I find a set of BLACK 27 inch wheelset for a 6 speed free wheel? Is that wheel size way outdated to find in black?

>>1039735
Bar ends and DT shifters each have their place.

DT shifters have cleaner cable runs and, in my experience, index better. No accidentally bashing the shifter into your knee or the top tube, either. I like them for bikes that spend most of their life on paved surfaces.

On the other hand, barends are easier to use if you're on rough surfaces and need both hands on the bars, and barends + top tube cable routing is a LOT more resistance to getting crudded up with mud.

Nice Opinel btw.

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Are quill-to-threadless adapters reliable? I'm putting on an old mtb that i plan to use for heavy duty commuting/trails on the weekend. Do they fall apart/slide or in are any way less durable than the old quill setup?

inb4 just get a new quill, I'd rather use what I already have than look for a rare 22 diameter 130mm long quill with rise.

>>1039769
There's nothing wrong with them other than that they look ghetto. Perfectly fine solution for cheaply rehabilitating an old bike if you don't want to look for rare old quill stems.

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>>1039769
>22 diameter 130mm long quill

I see two on ebay but they're $30-40

I don't know anyone who has ever had a problem with them, I didn't. I'd suggest one with a flat bottom edge... allows you to slam it for a less ugly look... curved bottom ones can't do this

>>1039746
>outdated?
Yes.

>>1039769
The only drawback to the adaptor is that it creates another potential point of failure. They're reliable as long as you torque all the bolts sufficiently.

>>1039735
Why the hate on barcons?

barcons and dt shifters are essentially the very same mechanism just mounted to different places

>>1039779
>>1039778
>>1039777
thanks anons, I'm actually planning to cover up the skinny neck with spacers for a slightly less faggoty look.

>>1039778
Adding to this, Deda brands a quill-threadless adapter with a slammable flat bottom edge

I'm pretty new to biking but I understand bikes have 'quick release' wheels/parts which means anyone on the street can steal your wheels or saddle, etc

Is this true? And how do I prevent it. thank you

>>1039779
>barcons and dt shifters are essentially the very same mechanism just mounted to different places

I'm the guy with the cannondale and I definitely like barcons, no hate

The small technical gripes I have are just installing them, it's annoying, but so is everything handlebar related. Downtube is nice because the shifting is all removed from the bars and any bar/quill stem changes are that much simpler.

But more than anything for me it is aesthetics and nostalgia for my first roadie bike that was downtube shifted

Last but not least the distance discourages excessive shifting so you get better at predicting your needs and are more economical with your shifts... or it just hardens you up... or it just makes you chill and enjoy the ride... pick whichever helps the rationalization 2 craft ur own reality babe

>>1039807
Yep, it's really easy to remove/steal wheels that are only attached to the frame by QR skewer (not that it's any harder to steal bolt-on wheels if the thief is carrying a wrench). The easiest method of protecting your wheels is to lock your frame to a solid object with a U-lock, then run a separate cable lock through the wheels (or at least the front wheel and frame, U-lock can go through frame + rear wheel). As for the saddle/post, you can run a cable lock through the saddle rails, or more conveniently, replace your QR seatpost clamp with a bolt-on clamp (once you get your saddle height set correctly you'll pretty much leave it alone essentially forever, so a QR there isn't very useful unless you've got a vintage MTB and need to adjust seat height for climbing and descending).

>>1039807
>And how do I prevent it.
Don't put your bike anywhere you wouldn't put your wallet. And PitLock, but mostly that first thing.

Having trouble with foot numbness. Starts happening after about half an hour on the bike and the blood returns pretty quickly when dismounting and standing on the ground. Is this a shoe width issue? I have a shimano shoe, should I try the same size in a wide fit?

>>1039900
If the problem goes away when you walk or stand (still wearing the shoes), then the issue is probably not the shoe fit.

Is it your entire foot going numb, or just a part of the foot? (toes? the soft tissue between your heel and the ball of your foot? Also, tell us what shoe you've got and what pedals you're using.

>>1039541
Sorry to tepost, can anyone offer advice here? Thanks.

>>1039903
I'm sorry, but "mysterious clicking drivetrain noise" is extremely hard to diagnose since it can be a million different things, from a broken BB to your shoelace tips banging against the seattube

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I'm leaving for a six week tour in NZ, should I replace the big chainring? Smaller one doesn't seem worn at all

(sorry for the ridiculous amount of gunk I'm gonna clean it soon)

>>1039912
Looks fine

>>1039913
thanks, cheers dude

>>1039912
is that the poler awol ?
sweat !

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>>1039920
ye dawg, got the last one in the store and they gave me 20% on it as well for no reason. p sweet

>>1039902
>>>1039900 (You)

Starts at the toes then kinda spreads around the front of the foot. Shimano R321 shoe. Look KEO max pedal.

>>1039541
>>1039903
As for the clinking noise, the first thing I'd check is that your rear shifter/derailer is setup correctly (there are multiple guides online) - if the tension of the cable is too taut/loose it means the chain won't line up exactly properly with the cogs when you shift and you'll get noise even though the chain is engaging.
2. As for the wheel not spinning very long, that probably either brake rub, or poorly adjusted hub bearings. This is one of those things that's impossible to diagnose over the internet, you really need somebody to look at the bike in person.

>>1039999
The first thing I'd check is that your cleats are set so that the ball of your foot is directly over the pedal spindle. If that's set correctly, then yeah, the next thing I'd do is try shoes that are a little bigger/wider and see if having a larger toebox solves the problem.

First time /n/ poster here, any pasta/pastebin/wiki about getting your first bike ? I don't have my own car anymore, not much money, and want to get back into shape, so I'm considering a used road bike, but I don't know where to start.

>>1040024
>>>/n/bbg/

>>1040008
>The first thing I'd check is that your cleats are set so that the ball of your foot is directly over the pedal spindle. If that's set correctly, then yeah, the next thing I'd do is try shoes that are a little bigger/wider and see if having a larger toebox solves the problem.

Yeah I've had my cleats professionally fitted so it's probably not that. I'll look into other shoes.

>>1040024
Thanks mate.

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>>1039009
Get a compact road map from a local petrol station. They have roads, rivers, gravel roads, national parks, huts, doc camp sites and some topographical info marked on them.

There are a few DOC 'farm parks', they're a bit of a cunt to camp in but they're mostly in the north island. DOC campsites all say to boil the tap water, ask a ranger, they generally don't bother. It's a liability thing.

If you're in a national park, you can free camp. Most of the SI west coast is national parks. The higher you go, the safer the water source will be. An alpine spring is tops. Gardia and agricultural runoff are serious problems in NZ. I don't drink from anything with farms above/ near it. There are a lot of introduced pests (deer, pigs, possums) and if one is lying dead in the river 100m away you could get sick. I drink straight from some places, sometimes boil but often i wont, and I haven't gotten sick yet. Fast flowing is the safest. You can do some serious climbing and if you plan smart, not carry 5kg, 2kg, or even 1kg of water weight. If you get in trouble, locals will always fill a few bottles up for you. A river is helpful to bathe/ pull buckies/ swim/ wash stuff in (waterfalls carve basins) (make a dam). Drowning is the national death so be careful. Our rivers often have algae on the rocks (some loose, some sharp) and you should not take off your shoes to ford them. The water is extremely cold and will instantly send you into shock if you slip. Even if i take everything else off, just swimming, in many rivers i'll leave my tigers on. They like to get wet and the soles are very grippy (people use them for parkour).

You can camp above the snowline. I'm taking a macpac escapade 500 bag, silk liner, exped pad & macpac minaret which is a 4 season tent. For clothes i will take maybe a beanie, down vest, a synthetic mid layer, several merino and polyester thermals inc leggings and a shell. Maybe even a down jacket or a merino hoody. It all layers well.

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>>1040036
In the top half of the north island you could get by with some stubbies, a wifebeater & a mosquito net for most of Feb & March. Wellington is pretty cold and that's about it.

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>>1039009
Food can be tricky. You get good general stores in frontier places like Arthur's pass which have a fair bit of stuff, but the prices are high because getting things in is tricky and there is often a tourist tax. Even supermarkets in towns will often have way inflated prices. Food prices in Auckland from Chinese, Indian and chain supermarkets are often 2-10 times cheaper than in the provinces. All around Queenstown where niggas are flying in and out in helicopters and own wineries, but really all of NZ you will find a lot of really nice really expensive food for sale from small outfits, but in the wops every cunt has a garden and a rifle, so i try to get nice local produce, meat and kai moana that is cheap cheaper than cities or free. Carrying water weight in produce from cities isn't really an option. On the other hand, country people are poor and know what's up, so actual bullshit ripoff shops can't survive in a town, but there are a lot of them in the city. It all depends on whether food is a means to an end for you, or if you enjoy cooking and eating.

I'd carry a few thousand calories of emergency sugar but mostly you can resupply daily. The stretch from Charleston to Nelson hasn't got much on it. Just ask locals about where shops are and show them your paper map.

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Ive got the chance of getting a second hand Sugino rd2 messenger 42t crankset, its in really good condition, going really cheap in local ads and its also in the gearing I like.

What I want to know is if any anon has had experience with those??

>pic related but in 42t

What's the point of a bike lock if even $100 bikes can be cut with angle grinders

>>1040149
I don't need a bike lock. My bike never leaves my sight.

>>1040156
How's your biek doing dangling from the living room wall? Did you already dust it today?

>>1040157
Lmao, if I had to leave my bike where someone could steal it, I would ride a cheap, replaceable beater.

What's a decent, light 54cm frame?

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Will I ever need to do anything to my chain maintenance wise excluding the possibility of it snapping if I have a full chain guard on it

I'm assuming lubrication and cleaning become a non-issue but what about tensioning

>>1040149
It's more of a deterrent than anything else, really.
That said especially the double bolting fuhgeddabout and stuff do present more time investments. Not that anyone will give a shit if they see a lock getting grinded.

>>1040168
All they do is keep dirt and crap off the chain, they're not airtight
you still have to lube it
and tensioning is a bitch with those things, unless you can figure a way to judge the chain tension without being able to touch it.

fixing a flat rear tire is going to be a bigger PITA and more frequent problem at any rate

Whatever, most people who ride dutch bikes don't know what maintenance is, ride on tires that they never realized went flat 6 months ago, then when it finally breaks down so bad that it's unrideable pay someone else to fix it for them.

>>1040176
>All they do is keep dirt and crap off the chain, they're not airtight
>you still have to lube it
Don't some chainguards use an oil bath or something like that?

I have a 130 mm (~5.25") drop from my saddle to my hoods, is this too much?

>>1040178
How does your back feel after a long ride?

>>1040176

The question is will I need to clean and lube it up as frequently as I would riding guardless in the same wet, cold and gritty roads with the distinct possibility of riding in snow and/or salted roads

I tend to go puncture resistant on my tires then put in a sealant and I'm riding on the road more to avoid the danger in the ditch or on the sidewalk. A puncture is still a possibility but's much rarer

How often does a chain on a single or three speed need to be tensioned. I'm assuming it's not something I'll be doing more than once a month if that

>>1040036
>>1040039
>>1040044
Dude thank you so much for the info. If you ever see my awol x poler tell me and I'll buy you a beer if there's anything close lul
Do you carry water purification tablets? Seems like they could be of use at most places!

>>1038138
How does one measure the length of a quill stem? Like what are the exact points to measure from?

My current stem is not long enough, but I'd like to know its exact length so I know which one I need to buy.

>>1040203
Centre of quill bolt to centre of the bar clamp.

>>1040204
Got it, thank you.

>>1038825
>Bikepacking is an absolute meme but so is the traditional touring kitchen sink approach.

Said the guy with a steel, cantilever braking bicycle with downtube shifters

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>>1038635

Slamming the stem is a meme

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>>1040163

VISP road frames are the best buy in cycling right now

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Anyone use an oval ring for mtb? Does it help with climbing? Going to 1x10 and i cant decide oval or round.

>>1040220
>Anyone use an oval ring for mtb?
Yes

>Does it help with climbing?
Sure, why not.

Really it's all marketing. Any benefit gained from oval vs round MTB rings is so laughably minute that it could be argued to be psychosomatic.

They sure look cool though.

>>1040224
alright- going round then.
Currently using a 38/24, 11-36. I almost never use the small ring but i still want to be able to climb. If i get a 42 extender cog what t count should i get up front? I'm thinking 32.

>>1040232
If you're concerned, play it safe and go 30t if your cranks support it.

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So I have and am using a chain to secure my bike but this thing is heavy as hell and always jangling as well as marking my bike where it rests on it. I was thinking of getting a U-lock but everyone tells me it'll be a definite downgrade in security on the bike

What's /n/'s opinion

>picture is sort of how my lock looks and exactly how it works

>>1040250
Firstly, it's important to realize all locks can be defeated. Even the rating system Kyrptonite uses is a measurement of how long it takes to defeat a given lock, not how likely it is to be defeated.

That said, a u-lock will be less cumbersome, but given that you want as a small of a u-lock as possible for maximum security, it will limit your ability to lock both wheels and the frame to a rack, etc.

Do you often ride with a bag? I would toss the chain in there instead of carrying it on your bike.

>>1040250
>>1040253
I forgot to mention; check out the Abus Bordo. It's a good middle ground and it mounts to your bottle cage securely.

What is the most common single speed ratio? I live in a relatively flat area

>>1040275
start with 2:1 and go from there.

Or if you're not bothered, just do 42x16 as you're likely end up there anyway.

>>1040250
those aren't really any more secure than a u-lock, a dude with a portable angle grinder can cut that in 1 minute

>>1040280
>a dude with a portable angle grinder can cut that in 1 minute
Who does this besides youtubers who record lock reviews no one asked for? Thieves are far more likely to use something far less conspicuous.

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I have an old cross style bike i am tooling around with

front fork will fit a 48mm (29x1.9) but the rear clearance will take up to 35mm depending on tire brand.

For shits and giggles, i want to run a 48mm up front and a 35mm in rear for some local trail use.

would this be too extreme of a tire size difference?

usually ill notice mtbs equip tires with a 5mm difference (.2")

>>1040282
>would this be too extreme of a tire size difference?
Shouldn't be. I ran a 45c FireCross in the front with a 35c Maxxis Locust in the rear on the local XC trails for a summer a couple of years ago and it was good fun. Looked mean too!

The size difference isn't enough to mess up the geometry or handling of the bike, and the higher volume front means a more forgiving ride if you happen to hit unseen roots on the trails. Just make sure you're no running your pressure too high.

>>1040284
awesome! thanks for the input. Im going to try it. 29x1.9 front and 700x35c rear lol.

>>1040282
>>1040288
I concur with the previous anon, I'm actually running 42/32 tires on my cx bike right now and it works fine, can't see any reason why 48/32 would give you issues.

>>1040282

There will be a slight increase in fork trail with the different tire sizes, which will make the bike less responsive.

Insignificant really but it's a thing

Sheldon brown recommends a bigger front tire in some instances. Front wheel wash-outs more likely to lead to a fall, rear wheel wash-outs are easily corrected... so fat front for off road is smrt

>>1040281
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQg3wa0kGbc

>>1040280

I don't see why anyone would bother. My bike is a single speed cheap Dutch style bike with loads of reflective shit stuck on it and a bargain bin rear rack. There's so many better options why use an angle grinder on my shit. Wouldn't even get £50 selling it on IMO

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>>1038138
I have a background in regular mountainbikes (26 hardtail, later on 27.5 full-suspension), and I'd like to get myself a fun bike for random hopping and cruising around town.

Would a 24 inch dirt-jumper fit the need for urban cruising and basic tricks like hopping on park benches etc with me being 6'1?
I really wouldn't like to use my proper trail bike for that purpose due to scratches and damage.

If I hear a clicking sound coming from the drivetrain whenever I apply a certain amount of force to the pedals on the downstroke (typically when getting up to speed), should I stop riding and check the bottom bracket ASAP?

It's not a consistent sound and I'm not sure the guy who built the bike I'm riding now greased the cranks where the pedals connect.

>>1040337
Its not going to explode on you or anything, but if you have a free day at one point, it isn't a crazy amount of work to rebuild a bb. You should probably not put it off forever though because friction inside there can mess it up over time.

This is all assuming its an old style bb, not a sealed cartridge, in which case it would have to be replaced

>>1040346
So the kind of problem I described is typical of BB malfunctions?

I haven't tried taking out and greasing the pedals and chainring bolts yet because I need to buy grease and a pedal wrench today.

>>1040337
There are a few things you can check first that are less invasive.

- clean & grease pedal spindle threads
- check that chainrings bolts are tight
- clean & grease crank arm bolts

>>1040350
OK cool, I'm gonna get the proper equipment and do that first.

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>>1040196
: ) haha all goods, ima hold you to that

Naw, i just boil it for a few minutes if i'm worried. Could be handy tho.

>>1040351
yeah also it's often your saddle or front derailer clamp clicking

shit is deceptive as fuck, and i'd overhaul a lot of easier stuff, good to do anyway, before touching the bb.

Grip a crankarm against the chainstay and pull them together hard. If that clicks, you know.

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>>1040216
nothing wrong with having a few memes in your life mane

>>1040232
I run 32:11-42 (Sunrace cassette, highly recommend if you want to replace the entire cassette) and I can't imagine myself ever needing anything lower. My bike's a 16kg full susser and I'm 178cm 66kg (probably slightly above average leg strength for my size), so unless you do loaded touring or you're a small guy (no offence intended) then you should be fine.

>>1040301
Don't bother with 24", component selection is extremely limited and it'll probably be a struggle to find a bike big enough for you. Just go with 26 or 27.5, the latter would have the advantage of being able to swap parts with your other bike but I don't know how common it current is with dirt jumpers.

My seat has been squeaking when I ride, is this dangerous or just annoying?

>>1040417
Just tighten the bolts

>>1040179
Not too bad, sometimes my upper back can feel a touch tight between my shoulder blades but that's always been a bit of an issue for me.

>>1040359
hey dude actually one more question:
What type of fuel is good to bring? Do they sell primus-typoe gas canisters in gas stations and stuff like that or should I bring an alcohol fueled stove?

What's the best value per dollar new, STI groupset to through on a sentimental steel road frame that won't be used very often? I'm thinking Sora. #Speeds not an issue

>>1040531
Sora/Claris. Though low end groupset pricing is fucked up and mid range groups are often so discounted that the lowest end doesn't make much sense any more. And mind the wheels. You may need at least a new rear to mount a modern cassette.

Tiagra is €350 at Merlin for the complete groupset including brakes. A 105 5800 gearset is €200 - make it €250 with a chain and cassette.

>>1040567

Thanks.

I've got some magic Mavic wheels that can go from 8 to 11 by removing a spacer the high comes with...

But I'm aiming for 9 speed, 8 acceptable

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>>1040514
No worries, happy to help while i'm still on a computer. I'm gonna be in Auckland for a few more days, then probably drive my car down to Turangi, stay there a few nights, drive down to Wellington, stay with my brother a few nights, then catch the ferry with my bike to Picton.

I use a Soto Windmaster from bivouac which i really like. You can get the generic threaded butane canisters everywhere. Coleman fuel/ white gas for a whisperlite or whatever is less common but you can get it at outdoor stores/ the warehouse/ hardware stores and some supermarkets. Frontier town stores like in Arthur's Pass or Colville have a decent range of stuff (colemans & canisters), but not cheap.

Bivouac, Macpac and Torpedo7 are the good outdoor stores here. Bunnings & supercheap auto are good. Surplustronics & Jaycar are good for misc items like tape and zip ties. Charity shops in cities have nothing good but charity shops in small towns can be extremely good if you need clothes/ kit/ tools/ kitchen stuff for 50c- $2 a piece. Trademe.co.nz is like craigslist/ebay.

Whittaker's chocolate is the best.

>>1040531
105. And I'm not memeing 105s. It's just that Tiagra is barely cheaper. The only reason to get it is lack of 11 speed wheels. Next gen Sora is going to be functionally equivalent to Tiagra and 105. Difference is weight and speeds. But you barely save any money downgrading group sets.

Claris is just okay.

Say you have a 11-42 Shimano cassette, and a 9 speed SLX RD that manages to shift on it (I do)

Now:

1. will a 10 speed shitmano STI be able to shift it?

2. Will a 10 speed shitmano barcon be able to shift it?

Facts:
10 speed shitmano MTB/road are incompatible

But 10 speed shitmano STIs play well with 9 speed shitmano MTB RDs

So it should work???

>>1040623

To repeat:

10 sp giant MTB cassette, currently shifted with friction on a 9 speed SLX Rd

Want to shift it with 10 sp roadie STI for abomination 1x Shimano 10 sp allroad

>>1040619
>Next gen Sora is

It's really pretty and nine speeded

I guess they can make it look that good now that nobody wants nine speed. There's a reason they keep the low end so ugly.

But now Sora's heels are getting bit by microshit

>>1040623
>>1040624
The ratio at the derailer is the same at 1.7x (only 10 speed MTB is different and then both 11 speeds) however the cable pull is off by 0.2mm (the shifter would pull slightly too little). I would say it will probably work but don't expect it to be super crisp, you'll probably have some noises is some gears but I don't think it'll be off enough to skip.

Some more info here that may be of use to you, I couldn't be arsed to rear through all of it:
http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/

Tiagra 10sp vs 105, what are the differences?, I was looking at 1k euro range and some bikes come with tiagra and somes with 105 parts.

Also there are one bike with direct mount brakes, is that good or bad?

>>1040627

Thanks dude. I will try to absorb the info in the link

>>1040632
Direct mount brakes are the shit, I wish more bikes came with them

Mini V vs. long pull V brakes on a touring bike

Clearly Vs are stronger than cantis, but is standard V stronger than mini?

>>1040654
I ride a full load surly lht with 2 cantis

Why dont you

>>1040655

V-brakes are just easier babe.

And I weigh 190lb

>>1040654
>Clearly Vs are stronger than cantis
What do you mean, clearly? The added leverage is compensated by lesser leverage in the lever. The end result for properly set up brakes is identical braking power. Dito V vs miniV.
V/mini-V are easier to set up. safer in case of the wire breaking and unaffected by crappy frame design. They do not, intrinsically, brake "better".

>>1040177
no, none do that

maybe 50 years ago when they were using guards pulled off of motor scooter/cycle things

>>1040346
>>not explode

if the clicking is from loose cups wiggling around against the BB shell (as opposed to just worn bearing races)
then putting it off too long can be damaging the frame

>>1040682
>>1040655


Holy shit fuck off retrocucks

Nobody believes you.

You've been buying bullshit from Velo Orange and Rivendell blogposts.

No, your canti brakes suck, 100%

V-brakes better

>>1040735
Solid arguments

>>1040738

You are a faggot and you are crying because you got memed into putting cantilever shit brakes on your Surly boat anchor. It's suicide time

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>>1040750
Jim, is that you?

>>1040750
>It's suicide time
oh no... please... don'tdoit...

>>1040735
>>1040750
>it sure smells vegan in here

>>1040750
Solid arguments

what do bikers think about people in plain clothes on average bikes

>>1040839
Nothing

>>1040843
aren't they pleb nuisances

>>1040839
"Cool look there goes another cyclist!"

>>1040844
only if I see them doing dumb shit
like riding the wrong side of street
or blowing through stop signs from behind me when I'm already stopped to let obvious cross traffic through

wearing plain clothes and plain bike is irrelevant; it's what you do with it that matters

>>1040839

I wear pain clothes in my chill tourer so I just nod at the guy and we're like... Yeah dude... You good? Lol Chillon @ 12mph

>>1040844
Pretty sure most of us ride in full lycra sometimes and plain clothes some others.

My rear tire is about worn out, but my front is still in quite good condition. When I get a new tire, should I put it straight on the rear, or should I swap the current front to the rear and put the new one up front (or does it matter at all)?

>>1040928
You should get a pair of new tires, put them both on, throw away the old rear one, and keep the old front one just in case

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>>1040919
I bought some winter kit and I look like a fucking asshat.

>>1040958
You must have some really mild winters.

>>1040964
no i just went for a 30 min ride and froze my nuts off- first time wearing "tights"- prob need to get insulated ones,

>>1040958
Well sure, anyone would look like an asshat riding with such loose clothing

>>1040928
You want the best tyre in the front.

>>1040928
New tyre on the front, old front on the rear is fine, so long as the current front tyre isn't near death. Waste of money to replace both at the same time since the rear wears way faster than the front.

Hey all. I need a good but low priced road bike. I will not be going to craigslist. Does anyone have any insight on good brands to go with?

>>1041039
Road bike is not terribly well defined, but I'm going to assume putzing around for sport rather than racing? Kona always make interesting bikes. The cheap Honky Tonk has been replaced by the (very nice but)more expensive Tonk. Perhaps you can still pick up a Honky residual stock at a bargain.

Other than that, the usual: Cannondale is a safe bet and so is Giant. Canyon and Planet X if you're in the EU.

>>1041048
Yeah literally just for putting around on a local bike path. Mainly for exercise. I also want to pick up a cheat track bike for use on rollers. Thanks! I'm going to look into your suggestions

700c rear with 26 front, any experience, anyone?

also...triathlon style brake lever with a disc brake, is it possible to get it to work right? I know the "pull" is supposed to be different but surely there has to be some way to get it proper, yeah?

>>1040928
>>1040979
Always wipe front to back
never the other way.

>>1039577
You'll get used to it quickly. You won't even need the padded shorts. A few rides and the soreness in the gooch / back / neck will go away as long as you give yourself some days off inbetween.

can you wear normal clothes with drop bars and commuting 10 miles (one direction)?

>>1041088
With the same diameter tyre and if you keep the 700c fork you're going to slacken the head angle by nearly 2 degrees and lower the bottom bracket (and thus put the pedals closer to the ground) by almost 15mm. If you stick a 26" fork on there as well you're pretty much going to double both of those numbers (4 degrees and 30mm). I'll leave it up to you to judge whether that would be acceptable, it's going to depend on the geometry of your frame.

Regarding the brake, you can get disc calipers that work with road levers that are used on disc brake drop bar road bikes and CX bikes.

>>1041099
Shouldn't be a problem unless normal to you is skinny jeans and tight non-stretch tops. 10 miles isn't a considerably long distance so you don't need the added comfort of cycling gear. Also if you don't already have the bike you may want to reconsider the drop bars.

>>1041104
>Also if you don't already have the bike you may want to reconsider the drop bars.
Can you elaborate on this (I don't have it). Considering a trek FX 3.

>>1041108
What I mean is a flat bar bike, such as that Trek, may be more suitable. The advantages of drop bar bikes are more hand positions for comfort on long distances and the ability to get a more aerodynamic position to go faster. For a 10 mile commuting trip a flat bar bike is more than adequate.

New to cycling and I'm not sure how to describe my problem on Google. I purchased an older bike that ran perfectly until I fucked up the back tire. I bought a new one, chained it and spun it by hand, it worked fine, however when I began to pedal I noticed that it might a grinding sound and was beyond difficult to pedal. Anyone know what's wrong or what I should be googling?

Looking for new bike suggestions. I want to get a bike for:
-Getting groceries
-Going around, not long trips

It's hilly and wet and dark here. I'll attach panniers and a handlebar bag to whatever I get. I am excited about a hub generator since it is a pain to be constantly charging batteries and applying/removing lights every time I lock it up at the store. Also wouldn't mind the convenience of disc brakes, geared hub, but will happily live w/o to save money.

$3000 limit. Currently looking at Surly disc trucker and Milwaukee Beltliner. Belt drive seems a little gimmicky. Made in US frame is a positive to me.

Hey /n/
I´d like to know what would be a good bike to gift to a friend. I have a 200€ budget. It´s main purpose is to move on the city, but if its posible he would enjoy more something like a mountain bike.

>>1039541
>>1039910
>>1040008

Thanks for replies, I took some video of it today. Bike sitting upside down, operating pedal with my hand.

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=28thpck&s=9#.WHq9gn21lZo

It only seems to make noise when pedaling, I have real trouble identifying where the sound comes from though.

File: download.png (1MB, 1920x984px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 1920x984px

>>1041258
put it upside down on the ground and spin slowly to locate source of rubbing, take a picture so we can see, then we might be able to help

>>1041278
you want to stay away from new bikes that cost 200 - they are more trouble than fun
i hope your frien is not too tall:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nl/en/vitus-bikes-dee-1-26-city-bike-2014/rp-prod80998


And anyone have suggestions for a 26" hardtail frames, disc and rck mounts

>>1041258
first off, make sure the axle is seated into the dropouts all the way on both ends

going on a 3 day trip, is there anything I should bring maintenace-wise apart from stuff to repair a tyre?

>>1041419
chain-breaker, quick link and some gaffa tape.

>>1041420
what do these do? sorry i'm retarded on this stuff

also I won't be do anything too intensive

>>1041421
Lets you fix a chain if it snaps in the middle of nowhere. Gaffa tape is generally useful for bodging things together if they break as a temp fix.

>>1041424
thanks. is that likely at all?