/BQG/ - Bike Questions General

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thinking about upgraded from my shitty old mountain bike to this. i want something more similar to a road bike but i like the larger tires of a gravel bike. how do i know if this is a quality product tho? i dont want to spend this much money on something that will break.

>>1032588
It's not top tier, but it won't break after 500km.I have a worse bike and I have done more than 4k km without any problem. If you are fine with the groupset/frame/budget, buy it.

>>1032588
pretty much everything from fugi is well made, that should have no trouble on light singletrack or on gravel

you may also want to look at the jari and the touring as well

>>1032617
jari is 2 much $$$

and i think the faux leather tape on the touring looks a tad gay

>>1032617
haha lols random you put fugi instead of fuji again that's a clever joke freind ;^ )

Do you think anyone would actually pay money for an ultegra 6800 crankset with some 7000 odd km on it?

I mean, it is technically possible to buy new rings for it but they end up costing as much as a whole new crankset anyway.

>>1032697
Depends how knackered it looks. There's a pretty good market for used bike parts.

Anyone know a good heart-rate monitor I can use for my phone?

Roller or trainer and why?

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Thoughts on this for beginner single trail action? I want to get my feet wet and probably gonna buy this from a friend to use.

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>>1032806

>>1032697
as long as the splines are gravy

there are meme applications for a crank like ss

>>1032798
you're doing injury rehabilitation or you live in an extremely inhospitable climate, otherwise, why either?

>>1032806
nice bike.

will be rubbish for singletrack

high chance all the bearings are shot

its a small size too so you better be littleish.

will be fun though, kind of like underbiking- (riding trails on a narrow tire road bike), and lots of further utility could be had from it.

A modernish used hardtail would be far far more competant on singletrack.

>>1032818
It's a 20 in frame. I'm 5'11. Too small ?

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>>1032821
I don't know, it's your friends, so you can trial it right?

If you have to raise the saddle much further to get good leg extension (slightly bent knee at the bottom of the pedal stroke) or it just feels cramped in general, then it's too small.

If it was strictly for shits and giggles, an undersized bike might be fun, but rigid mtbs really excel as a poor/ smart mans commuter/ gravel/ cx/ bikepacking/ touring/ hybrid bike so an undersized fit could get frustrating.

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I'm building up a bike.
it's a road frame , old steel and pretty weird.
1" ahead, solping geometry , vertical dropouts and 135mm rear spacing.
I can fit 33 mm tires, the back has room for more but the fork very barley clears.

I have to get some break and asked in the other general and was told I should get long reach calipers.

can somebody explain the need for longerange to me ?
shouldn't the reach correlate with the distance of the brake fixture hole and the rim , not the tire widt.

as it's a road bole , shouldn't standart brakes be fine ?

the pic is the same bike , but not mine

>>1032930
I remember your question in the other thread. Long reach calipers were mentioned because we didn't know very much about your frame or tire choices, and second, because calipers designed for a longer reach will generally accept a wider tire. Based on what you've told us here, chances are that standard reach calipers will work just fine on your new bike.

>>1032945

cool I hoped so.
now I can ebay some brakes.

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What are some good seats for making sure you put no pressure on your cremasteric muscle? I'm kinda paranoid about it, since I've heard multiform tales of older life-long cyclists developing erectile dysfunction from their cycling.

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>>1033010
i'm enjoying the brooks meme so far

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Looking for my first set of shoes and pedals lads

Thinking about pic related

£31.99 for the shoes ($39.50 in yankee currency), Wiggle brand, good reviews and shit
£23.99 for the pedals ($29.62), Shimano quality, comes with cleats
Total: £55.98 ($69.12)

Cop or no cop?

Have any of you ever got second hand shoes? I was considering that.

Or I might just get the pedals second hand, and get the shoes new.

>>1032806

is that a damn Freewheel (not a cassette) on the rear wheel?

if it is, enjoy breaking axles

>>1033010
Basically any saddle you like that has a good cutout. Most manufacturers make versions on their saddles in solid and cutout modes.

>>1033014
I think unless you specifically get one of the brooks with a cutout it's going to be the same as any other saddle, and as far as I know the cutouts are pretty small.

>>1033015
Don't buy bike shoes online. You have to try them on. A shop should help you do a basic fit which justifies the price. Get whatever fits you best, not penny pinching for specs. You can get alright deals with sales.

Pedals & cleats, yes, good buy. Second hand is fine too, although you want new cleats. It's pretty easy to service most pedals. Take pedals & cleats to the shop to save money, they shouldn't mind.

Second hand shoes, eh, kind of gross imo.

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>>1033017
Saddles are highly subjective dude. Some people find cutouts actually add sharp pressure to your junk. Problems often arise from poor setup not a poor saddle.

Just saying, for me, this b17 hasn't given any discomfort so far, even without bibs and i like it a lot. I never thought about a saddle breathing before but sweat wicking through the leather is actually really nice. It's also slowly softening and molding around my sit bones which is pretty cool.

Any saddle is a gamble and a brooks is an expensive gamble, but there is resale value. Just one option of many. Whatever works for your butt

>>1033014
>>1033017
>>1033022
Any pointers on where to look for a dirt poor college kid? A lot of these names seem... really expensive. Is that just something I'm gonna have to deal with if I want a good seat?

>>1033023
My go-to saddle is the WTB Rocket, and the WTB Volt is a close second (the Speed is nice if you like a flatter saddle). The basic versions with simple steel rails are $40.

>>1033025
Thanks, anon! I'll bounce these off my few cycling friends, see what they think. They sure -look- pretty for $35-$40.

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>>1033023
Oh, nah, not at all. There are tonnes of good inexpensive options. I really like the Selle Turbo (>$30 on wiggle).

You can sit on a saddle with the rails resting on a table to try it out. You can measure your sit bones by sitting in some sand.

Above poster recommending a cutout might be right.

The only thing i'd avoid is any saddle with much gel/ foam padding.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html

^ is worth a read

It's really just a matter of trying things out until you find something that works for you. Don't settle for pain.

>>1033025
+1 WTB saddles are pretty good in my experience.

>>1033028
Whoa, this is a big article. I'm gonna have to sit down and digest it for a bit. It looks to be just the sort of thing a young amateur like me should look at, though, thanks!

>>1033018

Interesting

Shops cost more money though and I hate spending more money than I have to

I'll have a look though, see how much they are

I've read the reviews of those ones I mention and most people say they are pretty bang on for sizing so I would just order my normal size of 9 which pretty much always fits me and it would probably be okay.

Thank you tho

>>1033037
Sheldon is great for learning about bike stuff. Just don't take it as gospel. He's fairly dogmatic and sometimes his advice is outdated (he can't help being dead).

The same goes for Jan Heine, Grant Petersen & Jobst Brandt, who all have very interesting opinions but if you ride their dick too far you'll end up getting memed hard.

>>1033016
It's a cassette

It's hitting summer here and I'm looking for advice on a summer long sleeve Jersey. Summer here is usually 30-40C.

>>1033056
megalomaniac mods deleted the muslim cycling thread or i'd say go ask for burqa advice there

>>1033056
hey, same here -- I would rather a long sleeve top than sunscreen

>>1032571
should I just take my bike to the shop to fix my rear and front derailleur?

Poorfag

Am I better off buying a new aluminium bike that weighs less, or buying an old cheapo steel bike that weighs a fuck ton but I can maybe buy a better groupset for?

Looking at racers. Really I'd want a cyclocross but I can't find a single one second hand so it's not really possible.

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>>1033081
Depends on what your local market is like. Link local auction site, rough price range & your size.

Also, what do you like about cx bikes? They have a lot of features that make them explicitly not 'racers'- as in road racers, so unless you're racing cx, looking at 'racers' and cx bikes is contradictory. Many older steel bikes have similar qualities (like clearance for wider tires and gravel capability).

Does a new carbon (or hell, even aluminium) race bike with external cable routing and a threaded BB exist?

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>>1033108
you can get a china carbon like that- mine has external cable routing and it pisses me off b/c it hangs under the BB. I got a PF30 BB and use a wheels mfg adapter to GXP. But you are prob talking about road bikes so idk.

>>1033081
If you get an old steel frame and try to put modern components on it you'll most definitely run into compatibility issues. I suggest you get a cheap, no-brand alu frame and go from there.

>>1033112
Yeah, I'm talking about road bikes. My current bike is a 2010 Tarmac that has both of these features that I really appreciate, I'm just curious to see if there are any options if I decide to eventually buy a newer bike. If not, I would not be unhappy to just find an S-works frame from the same generation.

>>1033108
The CAAD12 has external routing but BB30a sadly.

Is internal cable rattling mostly for athletics or does it serve a functional purpose?

>>1033153
>Is internal cable rattling mostly for athletics or does it serve a functional purpose?


Holy shit talk to text sucks. *aesthics and * routing*

>>1033153
internal is nice af on mtb and cx type stuff because you don't have to worry about the cables snagging on something in a crash and its easier to carry

its not really essential imo though

>>1033153
A E R O
E
R
O

An older friend of mine (fred) asked me to change his tubes and do a general clean up on his 29er trail bike. It has mechanical disk brakes. After taking the tires off and changing the tubes, I CANNOT get the calipers centered in the brake pads. They always rub. What is the triuck to getting the rotor centered in the caliper again?

>>1033183
Haha, who's the fred now?

>>1033183
First of all check that you didn't bend the rotors, just give the wheel a spin and see if it wobbles back and forth. To align the caliper you can do it by eye, tighten each bolt a little at a time so it doesn't shift as you tighten them.

>>1033185
I work on old 80s and 90s road bikes. I have no experience with modern bikes, let alone disk brakes.

I'm thinking of getting a bikepacking bike to go get lost in the woods for a while.

Been looking at this one, a brand I've never heard of
http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/mountain/mountain-trail/longitude/longitude

And the surly ECR, true and tested.
http://surlybikes.com/bikes/ecr

Which one is a better choice? Why? I'm leaning towards the Longitude.

>>1033183
It's possible they were centered while the wheel was not in the dropout correctly. Sounds like you'll have to re align them

>>1033189
The Longitude is way overpriced, can't be arsed to look up the cost of the Surly but I'd imagine it's probably even more expensive. Unfortunately that's usually the case with meme bikes, if you have the ability perhaps build one yourself.

>>1033189
Go with the Longitude
Either one is fine though

>>1033191
ECR $2100
longitude $1200

Thinking of re-painting my bike as it's getting rusty. Any tips? Will any primer + spray paint work fine?

>>1033200
+clear and you'll be fine

if you're worried about rust just use POR-15

>>1033056

Anyone?

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>>1033200
Pics? Just stripping and prepping is an immense amount of really cunty work. The end result probably won't be very durable either.

You have to completely disassemble the bike too.

I wouldn't bother unless it's a really nice frame in terrible condition, otherwise i'd just spray rust inhibitor in the tubes, take the worst rust back to bare metal, and touch up with rust converter, primer & a rattlecan or hobby paint or nail polish. Pic related was just sanding back a bad spot, rust converter (dries black) and yellow hobby paint applied with a brush. Not pretty, but easy and practical.

Powdercoating is the cheapest way to get a decent new paintjob (around 80 bucks). Maybe sandblasting to strip it. Paint stripper is a real bitch and getting it all is incredibly tedious.

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How do I clean my bike when I live in an apartment and I can't find a hose outside?

I remember someone posting some gardening tool, you fill it up with water and it has a spray that you can use, I don't know what it's called though.

>>1033289
Watering can

>>1033291
not what I was thinking of but looking at the related stuff got me there
https://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20002-Garden-Sprayer-Gallon/dp/B0039EEN0M/

What are some good bicycle gifts I can ask to get for Christmas?

Any redpilled books against cagers?

I think I'll list one of those multisize spoke wrenches, a bike light, or the book High Cost of Free Parking as suggestions.

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Are these saddles as comfy as they look?

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What kind of casual pants do you guys wear during the colder months? Past few years I've been biking in Levi's and it's awful.

>>1033307
walmart sweatpants

>>1033307
Slacks, preferably ones made of wool. Actually though, this past week with single digit weather I did a couple commute trips wearing ordinary polyester slacks under an outer layer of rain pants and was surprisingly comfortable.

But most of the time, unless it's really cold I prefer to commute in shorts and carry pants in my panniers/bag that I can quickly change into when I get to work or a social function where shorts would be out of place. For purely recreational riding I never wear pants, if I need to cover my legs tights or leg warmers are always superior.

>>1033049
really? that's Odd that it has a cassette on a Nutted axle
but the front has a QR
strange

>>1033307
Sweats, joggers with the elastic bottoms help a lot both to keep the heat in and not get fucked on the drivetrain

>>1033190
alternately they brakes are fine and, op can't figure out how to seat the wheel into the dropouts correctly

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>>1033307
merino or polyester leggings & shorts

can I use crosslevers only for road calipers ?

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Is it possible to put more than 6 gears on this back?

I want to replace the gears, because soon by chain will break, and the gears are already fucked.

>>1033352
I believe 7 will be the max. 8-speed and above needs a wider frame spacing.

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>>1033353
>wider frame spacing
I looked on my LBS, and all frames seemed like having the same width. I think it's because the difference is small and needs a rule to measure?

By the way, is it really worth to add more speeds? Would the speeds be physically gears with higher diameter than mines, or would they be intermediaries to mines?

>>1033355
>Would the speeds be physically gears with higher diameter than mines, or would they be intermediaries to mines?

That's your choice, but keep in mind the rear derailleur might be limited on how big it can go.

By the way is the bike indexed or friction? If it's indexed you'll need a new derailleur and shifter too.

>>1033349
Yes, that's what fixie and SSfags do all the time.

>>1033349
yee boi, rocked my fixed with one until I put nicer bars and levers on it but I recently put it back on for winter in case I gotta pull brake in my lobster claws

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>>1033356
>By the way is the bike indexed or friction?
Pic related, friction. Just note that this picture was taken some time ago, and the bike isn't as shitty as it was, anymore.

>keep in mind the rear derailleur might be limited on how big it can go
I don't care about replacing the derailer. I have a cheap one that doesn't seems like being good. Pic related.

>If it's indexed you'll need a new derailleur and shifter too.
I'm not sure it would be good to install an indexed derailer. Seems like vendor lock-in, to me.

>>1033355
The difference in spacing is 126mm vs. 130mm so you wouldn't be able to tell without measuring.

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>>1033356
>>1033353
>>1033360
Could you please share your view on this matter here >>1033355?
>is it really worth to add more speeds?

>>1033374
Not him but not really, unless you
A. find that sometimes your highest gear isn't high enough / lowest isn't low enough
B. find the jump between gears too big
They're fairly slight improvements. I used to run 8spd and upgraded to 10spd, and honestly I could go back and not mind it too much.

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>>1033375
>A. find that sometimes your highest gear isn't high enough / lowest isn't low enough
I can't climb streets much. It requires more effort than I'd like to make. Specially true on a specific part of the city where I need to climb 129m through 2km. Is this normal? In this case, I always needed to dismount from the bike, and climb by foot, pushing the bike.

>B. find the jump between gears too big
I don't find this. The front gears have a big jump, so I use the back gears to do a fine-tuning. It's enough.

>>1033381
You could just get a 7-speed cassette with a bigger largest cog. So if, for example, your biggest is 28t get on with a 32.

>>1033387
>So if, for example, your biggest is 28t get on with a 32.
These numbers are the measurement of the diameter on milimeters?

>>1033392
The number of teeth (which of course also affects the diameter). The ratio between the tooth count on the front and rear determines how high or low the gearing is (low being easier to pedal, high allowing you to go faster). Say you had 28t up front and 28t in the back that'd be 1:1, but if your largest in the back was 32t then the ratio would be lower at around 1:1.14.

So, not only could you go larger in the rear you may also be able to go smaller at the front, typically down to 22t. Both 6 speed and 7 speed freewheels top out at 34t.

Are rollers supposed to feel more difficult to ride for longer periods or am I just a shitter?

>>1033423
that's mostly what I hear from other people, I've had more time on rollers than on a trainer and I found a trainer boring and easy if it doesn't have variable resistance.
I can't remember exactly what the old saying is but it's like an hour on the rollers is like an hour and a half on the road.
but if you're not riding out in the cold on the road, then yes you are a shitter.

HTFU

>>1033299
>Any redpilled books against cagers?

saw this in the /upg/
>>1033230
>>1033234

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Hello. I believe I have a freewheel, instead of a freehub. Should I be depressed over this fact, or it doesn't matter much?

This rust, the fact it wobbles when turning (instead of just spinning in a circle), and the fact it makes a strange sound when freewheeling (rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhh) is just a sign that it's going to break/get stuck soon, or does it means also that it will fuck my shiny new hub?

>>1033490
The rust is easily removed, threaded freewheels are expected to wobble a bit, and every freewheel/hub mechanism makes a rrrrrrrrrrr sound when coasting.

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>>1033492
What?

>>1033493
>threaded freewheels are expected to wobble a bit
WHY?

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>>1033495

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>>1033495
>>1033498
The wobble of a freewheel occurs because inside the freewheel are two sets of loose bearings (same as inside a hub or headset), and when the race is adjusted so the freewheel can spin freely that naturally means it can also move very, very slightly vertically (perpendicular to the axis of rotation) as well. There's nothing wrong with this at all, and the visible wobble you see isn't enough to have any impact on shifting performance.

Freehubs don't (usually) have a perceptible wobble because there are actually three sets of bearings involved: two matching sets just inside the freewheel, and a third because the race for the axle bearings on the driveside of the hub are built into the freehub body. The presence of that third set of bearings tends to inhibit the vertical wobble enough that it's not noticeable anymore.

>>1033490
>it makes a strange sound when freewheeling (rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhh) is just a sign that it's going to break/get stuck soon,

you can flush it with oil between the rusty circle and the spinny outer part
https://archive.nyafuu.org/n/thread/999284/#1000412

>>1033500
That's not wobble, that could result in hop like when a rim isn't radially true. Likewise wobble is like when a rim isn't laterally true, it moves side to side. It's caused by multiple parts being slightly misaligned and sometimes those add up to a larger wobble, more so with shitty components which is more likely with freewheel stuff.

>>1033485
thx m8

Guys, what's a good bike fitting methodology these days? I feel decent on my bike but it's not all that comfy on longer rides.

>>1033500
That's not true. It's because the freewheel bearings are not inline with the hub bearings. It's completely normal though.

I'm about to buy new inner tubes for my CX bike with 700x35c tyres. I'm ordering from an online shop and the only reasonably cheap tubes they have come in two sizes, one that says will work for 700x28 up to 700x35 and another one that says will be fine from 700x35 up to 700x42.

According to this any of the two should be fine, but I don't know which one I should go for.

>>1033578
The narrower tube will be likely be slightly lighter but also slightly more prone to punctures due to it being stretched more, assuming both are from the same manufacturer. Also the smaller one might be a bit easier to stuff inside the tyre when installing it. The difference is going to be rather small and doesn't really matter, but as you're doing CX you may as well go for the larger one.

>>1033579
thanks

>>1033578
If your frame has clearance for even wider tires, go with the bigger tube in case you want to switch. If not, go with the smaller tube in case you want to put thinner road slicks on it eventually.

>>1033493
>every freewheel/hub mechanism makes a rrrrrrrrrrr sound when coasting
I want to clarify that it's not a ratchet sound that I'm talking about. It does the ratchet sound, but also a sound like metal-on-metal friction.

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I am looking for the model of these handle bars on this old mtb. I like the wide and slight upsweep it has. Anyone know the model of the bar, or, the year of this bike so I can research the catalogs ?

>>1032571
So why are bike jerseys so expensive in the US?
You can get acceptable-quality jerseys for less than 20 euros in Europe but every store I checked in the US you could only find <80 USD jerseys if they were on sale

>>1033597

There is a premium on being healthy in the US.

>good food
>exercise equipment
>gym membership

all of these are artificially inflated

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Is this a good D-lock?

>>1033599
i mean it's better than nothing

>>1033595
I don't think bars like that have a name, I've seen them on a bunch of bikes but never seen a name associated with them. If you lived near me I'd give you ones that are laying around in my parts bin, the ones I've got are labeled 'Advent' but I presume that's a 3rd party addition. I'd visit bike shops near you that have been open since the 80's and ask if they've got any old mtb bars hidden away in the back.

>>1033599
The only /bad U-locks are the ones that have circular keyholes and can be opened by jamming the plastic tube from a pen into them.

>>1033595
That's an early 90s hard rock, you can tell by the font on the model. IIRC a few models had the same bars so look around that era.
I believe they started putting Specialized on the down tube in 1996, so start looking backwards from 1995 since I"m not sure when they started using that font, could be late 80s.
IIRC Soma has some bars like that too

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>>1033601
>The only /bad U-locks are the ones that have circular keyholes and can be opened by jamming the plastic tube from a pen into them.
I highly doubt. The one on pic related is very cheap and probably is of bad quality.

>>1033600
I don't have nothing. I have a cable lock. Is it better than a cable lock?

>>1033601
Email me. [email protected]

>>1033609
Yes

>>1033613
>moval.edu
I'm about 1,000 miles away from you, and these bars aren't rare enough to be worth shipping. You should be able to find some locally if you look.

>>1033625
Well, what style or company should i search for

>>1033594
FLUSH
IT
WITH
OIL
>>1033501

>>1033595
Those are just flat bars that have been tilted forward so the back sweep turns into a diagonal upsweep.

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Right now I have the square taper BB like in pic related, could I switch it out for the crankset pictured?

>>1033650
Yeah that'll work fine. Are you getting that particular crankset, off Ebay? I've seen them on there a few times and they look pretty neat.

>>1033651
thx. Ya, they look nice and the price is pretty hard to beat.

>>1033655
For a brand new Hollowtech II style crankset that's certainly true. If you'd like something a bit better you can get second hand stuff for a similar price, I got an unused M590 crankset for about the same a couple years ago and got a lightly used XT M770 for a bit cheaper a few weeks back (without bearings though).

>>1033658
How'd you get those? the listing on ebay also says:
"Package Includes:1 x Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket."
no chain ring in the pics but I might be getting one.

>>1033659
The M590 I think was a buy it now, the M770 I got lucky with bidding.

I think "bicycle crank sprocket" may just be Chinglish for crankset. If it came with a chainring they'd even give you an option for the size or list it in the description.

Hollowtech II bottom brackets can be had fairly cheap, that one that's included probably isn't very good quality and may not last very long, you might want to just replace it straight away. Also don't forget to order a tool to screw the bearings in, unless you don't mind scratching the cups up with pliers.

Are there any good videos or apps I can use on my Cycleops trainer rigged bike for indoors training? It is becoming way too cold to train outdoors

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>>1033665
I'm seeing some that come with this black wheel on one end. What do you use that for?

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So hi guys, I found this old bike. I'm not from this board and I don't know shit about bikes so I was hoping you guys could help me answer a few questions for a guy looking to start riding.

To answer a few of your own questions, I did some research and this is a Centurion 88 or 89 Ironman Master Dave Scott in a purple smoke fade or something.. I was wondering if you guys knew if it's worth anything?

I'm thinking it's a little too tall for me, I have to be half tippy toeing with the top tube between my legs with it crushing my crotch. That means it's too big, right? Is there any way to make a bike for a taller person useable for someone shorter? The seat is all the way down already, the frame is just too big for me, I think. I was hoping maybe I could go into a local bike shop and see if I can get some work done on it to fit me better, or just try to trade it in towards a new bike.

Any thoughts?

TL;DR is this vintage bike worth anything, can I make it usable for someone shorter (me), is it worth fixing up or should i just get a new one?
Sorry for the shit quality pic and mess in advance.

>>1033709
"One end of the BBT-9 securely engages the 16 notches of the bottom bracket cups. The other end of the tool engages the 8 internal splines of the crank arm adjustment cap."

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>>1033709
The black plastic bit is a wrench for tightening the crank fixing bolt that pulls the two halves together. These wrenches (pic related is another design that does the same thing) are intentionally very small in order to avoid over-torquing those bolts.

>>1033710
1. Those late 80's Centurions are well regarded bikes, quality components, really nice frames. I have an '87 Ironman (with updated components) and it's one of the best riding bikes I've ever owned.
2. But unfortunately, that frame is definitely too big for you, so you're going to be much better served by selling it and getting something that actually fits. See if you have any bike shops near you that deal in used bikes and could give you some trade in value - if that's not an option, I'd expect that bike, in the condition we can see, to be worth $150-200 on a typical Craiglist page, a little more if you live in a bigger city where demand for used bikes is high.

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>>1033710
That's an excellent bike. Worth money & worth riding.

You do not strictly need standover height. Adjust the seat height so that your knees have a very very slight bend in them when your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke. If this is achievable, it is possible to ride it. Many people ride oversized bikes, it's called a french fit.

Most racing cyclists size down. They do it so they can have substantial drop in height between the saddle and the bars for an aerodynamic position. You might enjoy having high bars. New riders who have big saddle- bar drops generally don't ride in the lower handlebar positions and get sore backs.

You may need a shorter stem to bring the bars closer to you.

>>1033712
>>1033714
huh, thought it had something to do with the arms. makes sense after seeing the other side of the thing.

>>1033714
Damn, that's a shame, I was really getting excited about using this bike but I guess I need to admit its just too big for me.
Hopefully the shop nearby accepts trade ins.

But what about what the other anon says?
>>1033716
What I've read is that you should be able to lift your bike to your crotch and have the wheels like an inch or so off the ground for it to be properly fitted.

I'm not sure if the bars are the problem, the frame is just kind of tall for me.

>>1033719
The more common advice is 3 fingers between the top tube and your dangus. This is standover height. It's nice for starting and stopping but that is a high quality road bike. If you get good you'll clip in & never put a foot down. You'll trackstand at lights. If you have to you can always lean the bike to get more nutsack clearance.

Standover room is nice but really it's most nice for casuals and it's completely unnecessary.

What matters is your leg extension for pedaling.

>>1033720
Thank you, anon, that's helpful. I'll try to fix it up and make the best out of this one for a while and see if I can git gud

If not, I'm gonna have to get rid of it

whats the best bike helmet for money?

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Does this cassette look to be in good shape *other than need a scrub

>>1033778
Hard to say much from that picture but it's not obviously worn out.

>>1033778
Unless they're super shot, it's not usually super obvious by visual inspection. Install a chain, adjust the limits/cable tension of the rear derailleur and take it for a ride to see if it skips.

If it does need replacing, new Shimano 7sp cassettes are super cheap.

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>>1033780

Why are bikes so expensive these days? I remember a mountain bike being about 100 dollars.

>>1033786
>I remember a mountain bike shaped object being about 100 dollars
fixed

tfw regret because I went flat bar and not drop.

>>1033710
I would not listen to that "French fit" post. a too-large frame is going to be sluggish to respond and if you need to do an emergency dismount, your nuts are gonna get smashed.

going by the headtube length, it looks to be a 63cm frame, which is what I ride and I'm 6'3".

listen to this guy >>1033714 he's right about the worth, too, i think. shame, it is a neat bike.

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>>1033799
From: [email protected] (Jobst Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: alloy failure
Date: 15 Jan 2001 21:53:56 GMT

Henrik Muenster writes:

>> I don't think you know what the dimensions of my frame are and what
>> effect that might have on your riding.

> From the photos it seems to be very large, much larger than standard
> frames, and yet you only have a little seat post showing. Don't get
> me wrong. I don't like the very small frames, that some riders use
> these days. I have a 62 cm c-c (63,5 c-t) frame to my 189 cm and
> around 90 cm inseam. My lbs thinks I should ride on a 60 cm c-t
> frame, and I have seen riders on even smaller frames. I have always
> thought, that the amount of seat post showing should be somewhat
> proportional to the size of the frame.

I don't see the logic in the long seat post or one that is
proportional to frame size. At the time I chose this frame size, the
seat post was long enough to have full engagement. I've had the same
Campagnolo seat post for a long time and it doesn't have a lot of
spare length inside the frame although it has about 80-100mm
engagement. I have a feeling that many riders have a fear of the top
tube and the farther away the better. Fortunately I started riding
when these folks (old fuddy duddies) were not in charge.

http://yarchive.net/bike/frame_dimensions.html

Have a read. 'Quick' handling is not the hottest beans unless you're racing crits. I'm not suggesting that he goes and buys a 63cm frame or commits to riding them for life. It's just one school of thought that's worth considering, seeing as he has this nice centurion in his lap. If the seatpost truely has to be completely slammed to get correct leg extension, maybe not, but if he can raise it a few fingers i think it COULD work. Jobst Brandt riding custom Ritchey's is not to shake a stick at.

> if you need to do an emergency dismount, your nuts are gonna get smashed
Fear mongering nonsense.

>>1033799
Sounds about right. I'm like 5'11" or 6' and I can stand over the very frontmost of the toptube with just minimal ball crunching.

It really is a shame, I'm not into biking or anything but I want to get into it and I'm kind of loving this bike and its frame

Thanks for the advice, anon!

>>1033807
again, this guy disagrees >>1033801

the focus of his citation seems to center around seat-height, which is related, and what was considered fashionable or trendy back then. To me, standover height is the final boss. what you do is ultimately up to you. I don't advocate getting the top tube far away from you, either. three-fingers/one-or-two inches from standover is what you want.

I don't care about "quick" handling, but to me, an oversized frame steers like a boat. it's not about quick as much as it is about _competent_ handling.

as for
>Fear mongering nonsense.

it's happened to me. was riding the wrong sized frame when I was a less-competent rider (like the guy we're trying to help says he is) and had to dismount unexpectedly. it was the first time I really racked myself good and the memory is still very clear in my mind, let me tell you.

I guess try to test ride a frame that's sized more toward your standover and compare how you feel about it?

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>>1033810
It was fashionable/ trendy in the 80s to ride an undersized italian frame

Hell, that's what i've been doing for ages lol

Brandt was a smart guy though, peers with Sheldon and Jan Heine, and his ideas are worth considering.

Take a clumsy anime analogy. Porco's Italian seaplane in Porco Rosso is incredibly difficult to launch, but once in flight that is irrelevant and it is the sharpest plane in the Adriatic.

How a bike rides when it is not riding shouldn't be of much concern. It is possible to jam the front wheel on many road bikes with your foot at very slow speeds and flip the bike over. I've done it. You merely have to learn, not make concessions for how a bike rides when it's near stationary. Many bikes have been designed to eliminate overlap, or given high bottom brackets to reduce stand-over height. These concessions can often have a negative impact on how the bike rides, merely so it is appealing to test in a parking lot.

I'm not preaching some oversized frame dogma, but this nigga has a free bike that might fit him and it's simply worth a shot.

I'm sorry about your balls, but i think you learnt the wrong lesson from that incident.

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How to open?

>>1033854
That darker coloured part looks like a lockring, no idea if it's a standard size that you could get a tool for so you may have to go at it with a hammer and chisel.

>>1033490
>>1033493
>>1033495
>>1033594
>>1033641
>>1033498
>>1033500
>>1033506
>>1033532

Hey, I discovered a problem with the bike. It was doing a crazy chain sound, like if the chain was colliding laterally with the derailer. Then another crazy sound, like the chain wasn't matching the gears. I discovered that my back wheel, installed like 2 weeks ago, was misaligned. Now I went to the LBS that installed it, and the mechanic aligned it again. Less noise and less strange things happening now.

>>1033854
Why to open?

>>1033710
>>1033710
>>1033714
>>1033799
I finally got my bike back with some new pedals and a fixed seat.
Tried using it and I felt a little clumsy and off balance but that's probably because i haven't ridden a bike in years so I'm not used to it.

I can ride the bike fine, it's just that I can't really make sharp turns or maneuvers with it, just going straight. I had to emergency dismount and I didn't crush my nuts surprisingly since they just fall on either side of the bar instead but it still rides way up into my crotch. I really need to lean down to break and ride but I suppose that's just because I'm not used to using an actual road bike either.

Still, can't help but feel this bike is huge for me lol

>>1033854
Don't do it

>>1034014
be careful out there.

still think you should borrow a normal-sized bike to compare before you settle on the Ironman.

>>1034018
Where could I borrow a bike?

I...I have no friends ;-;

>>1034020
go to a shop and pretend you're in the market for a new bike. they'll let you to test ride a bike in your size. then just say "nah, i think i'm gonna go with (brand from competitor's shop)"

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hi /n/ need some mechanical help.
the patient is a 98 trek 6000 hardtail mtb. has a shimano stx rc groupset. problem is with the rear derailleur
the spring marked with an arrow at right of the pic gets loose. happened first like one year ago. i just hooked it up to the "pivot" marked with the other arrow (and in a circle)at the left of the pic. worked fine till yesterday, when it happened again, so i did the same thing. went for a test ride but it got out in less than 5 minutes. my questions:
-is the thing i marked on the left the correct place where the spring should be hooked?
-maybe i just hooked it poorly and thats why it got out? or maybe the thing is weared out and i need to try to hook it to another place or modify something? (ill post an idea i have on next post).

its basically that.. any guide on what i could be doing wrong is greatly apreaciated. and any tip on what would be the best option.
also sorry for my english as it isnt my native tounge :)
thaaaaaaaaanks

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would it be a sin if hook the spring to this thing? i dont know how to call it,but its like the axis that lets that junction bend...would the spting overstrech? thanks people! any input is more than welcomed!

>>1034043
>>1034044
The spring has the attach to the silver part of the parallelogram, hooking it to the black part won't work. It looks like the hook at the end of the spring has bent open, try squeezing it with some pliers to close it up a bit.

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>>1034046
thanks a lot, really simple idea, but it hadnt crossed my mind.
i tried it, and took the bike for a spin, a couple of bunny hops and stuff, but after 5 minutes the spring came out again. shat!

now im clueless, anyone has experience with similar trouble? i searched for the manual but could only find the users manual not the service manual... but i dont see where else it could be hooked...strange issue.. bike was unused for a long time. i started using it heavily 2 years ago.
thanks in advance if anyone can help.

>>1034061
Hmm, it would seem that the groove in that little stud isn't deep enough to keep the hook in place. Can you unscrew it (will need pliers on it if the other side doesn't have a screw head)? If so you could file the groove deeper. If not you could try drilling a hole right next to it near where the limit screw touches and then put the hook through that.

>>1034068
yep.. those are good ideas, drilling a whole sounds good, i think theres no way of getting the stud out... i think ill go with that option, but tomorrow, now its really late. ill post results and pics.
the only thing i find strange is that.. if the little groove of the stud is the place where the spring goes.. and it has been there for all this time.. why did it start to go out all of the sudden? with time the groove should had gotten bigger (erosion or something).. it should be more difficult for the spring to get out.. but who knows. thanks bro!

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>>1034043
>>1034044
>>1034061
>>1034074
I just went and grabbed one of my old 8-speed Shimano derailleurs out of the garage. Your first picture is correct, the spring is supposed to go over that little silver stud on the outer parallelogram plate. >>1034046 is correct, you can NOT attach the spring to the black inner plate.

I'm not sure why yours keeps coming off, but here's a picture of what it's *supposed* to look like

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Sup guys

I have Weinmann side-pull single pivot brakes on my bike, much like pic related (not sure if exactly the same, can't be arsed to check, but pretty damn similar)

They're fucking TERRIBLE. Do I:

a) Buy new vintage-style brake pads, like the ones in the pic
b) Buy MODERN oblong-shaped brake pads/blocks, which I have read should fit?
c) Buy some Weinmann centre-pulls off eBay (are they much better?)
d) Buy some modern dual-pivots and drill out my frame to accommodate them

I mean sure, I'd love dual-pivots, but I can't really be fucked to drill the frame out

Will new brake pads make a big difference? Since they're the cheapest/easiest option.

As I say, I read that modern style brake blocks can be used (apparently the 5mm bolt for attaching them to the calliper is still the standard, so it'll fit)? So should I try that?

Are centre-pulls significantly better than side-pulls, and therefore worth buying?

Should I just kill myself?

Danke schön.

>>1034105
>Should I just kill myself?
Don't think about it so much, just go out and ride.. I mean, who needs to stop? Ted shred that shit.

but yah, just throw some new pads on there, whatever is cheaper. I did that on my gaspipe 70s mommy bike and it worked well, they bolt in just fine.

You don't have a co-op near you? They could help you with finding a different pair of calipers or just to drill the frame out to put dual-pivots.

Viel glück

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>>1034105
Buy modern sidepull calipers, with non-recessed locknuts so they'll fit your frame.

looking to get a cheap bike just to do some kms in while saving up for a proper one, but I don't really know what to look for
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bull-creek/bicycles/vintage-malvern-star/1132023696

will I kill myself riding this?

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hey gus,

I want to get a sequoia elite in a month or so.
from the numbers I'm unsure about the size.
I'll test ride some in the store but in the mean time can somebody help me out.

I'm ~ 1,76 85cm inseam.
I had a 56 dolan pre cursa that fit well and ride a kaffenback 2 in l with risers and a 110mm stem that I feel is a bit long.

also I have a bit of a hip issue and I feel like my reach isn't the best because of that.

reach wise , I think the 52 would be good, but maybe a 54 could fit also.
should I even consider 50 ?

any advice frome somebody who has a sequoia ?
what's your inseam and bike height ?

>>1034184

thinking about this,

I could probably get either size and compensate with an appropriat stem.
what would be the up and down side of a bigger /smaller frame ?

I mostly ride long rides (2-6 h) and would like to get into touring

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>>1034183
As cheap old bikes go that's pretty good. It's a relatively big frame though, you'll need to be 6'-6'4" to ride it comfortably (out of curiosity do people in Oz typically describe height in cm or feet?)

>>1034184
>>1034185
If you're comfortable on a 56cm Dolan, I would expect you'll be happiest on a 56 or 54 Sequoia, not any smaller or you'll start having odd fitting issues (saddle too far aft, giant stack of spacers/stem) without getting any additional benefit. Without knowing more about your hip issues and seeing your posture it's not possible to say for sure what's going to work best, but 54 or 56 are the frame sizes I'd put you on to test ride.

>>1034105
If your brake calipers are a model with longer arms than those, then I'd look at upgrading (just go straight to modern dual pivots, centerpulls will require cable stops that you probably don't already have) because cheap single pivots with long arms flex too much.

If yours have shorter arms like in your picture, then I'd start by trying new pads, the problem could just be that your old pads are dried out and rock hard, and new basic brake pads are cheap.

>>1034190
>54 or 56 are the frame sizes I'd put you on to test ride.

I thought so to initially , but I also don't really know how applicable the standart sizes are sind the the frame has quit the immense slope.

I'm rather comfortable to ride a saddle bar drop the onlything that get me is reach.

I probably just have to try them out

>>1034190
I'm 6'2" so that shouldn't be a problem, thanks for the info

And we tend to use the two interchangeably, since height and cricket pitches are the only things people use feet for here

>>1033086
>Also, what do you like about cx bikes?
Disc brakes and clearance for wide tyres. I ride a lot of snow and ice, so I need to get at least 35mm studded tyres on there, preferably 42mm. And I still want to go decently fast on slicks in the summer.

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>>1034124
>>1034125
>>1034190
Thank you for the advice

Yes maybe I should just get some new brake pads first since they're not that much

>Buy modern sidepull calipers, with non-recessed locknuts so they'll fit your frame.
I had no idea you COULD get dual pivots with old-style nuts (giggity), instead of recessed nuts (giggity). But I found pic on eBay which apparently has non-recessed nuts. Might be a bit long for my bike but there seem to be some others too.

>You don't have a co-op near you? They could help you with finding a different pair of calipers or just to drill the frame out to put dual-pivots.
I do not. Maybe I could go to an LBS but that's time / money / effort. Maybe though.

>If your brake calipers are a model with longer arms than those, then I'd look at upgrading
I think mine are shorter, and pic related which I found might be too long, so yeah maybe I'll start with brake pads, but there are some other ones on eBay, from Tektro and Acor, which look shorter, and claim to have non-recessed nuts too, so might be worth trying if new pads are still shit.

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>>1034089
hello there friend. thanks a lot for your info and pic. really helps a lot.

still cant figure why its getting out of his position im gonna fully disemble the thing now cause today i cleaned it (thought that maybe lube was causing the problem cause i cleaned the transmission yesterday),,, and it still gets out, went for a short ride thing got out 2 times, not good. anywayyyyyyyyy ,just full taking apart and maybe drilling a hole is what ill do, cant think of anything else ,thanks!

>>1034250
One thing I did notice in your photo in >>1034061 is that the spring doesn't look to be under any tension (no gaps between the coils), as if it's too long.

What you can try is doing your test in the highest gear so the spring is under the most tension (or perhaps the lowest gear, Shimano swapped things around at some point) and see if the spring still pops off. If it doesn't then that means it is a lack of tension, what you can do is remove the spring completely and cut it a few turns below the hook, the bend the last coil into a new hook.

>>1034261
thanks again for your time mister. its apreciated.

well in that pic the spring is not hooked up. but when its on it's place it does not strech so much as yours. the spring has always been this long so maybe its just a stiffer spring that the one you have. buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut, the tension factor is an interesting factor i had not thought about!
i've been riding this bike hard the past 2 years. each month doing 800-1000km and just now this is failing. i couldnt think of a reason why this would happen. my best bet was that it was lube or something.... but tension! must be that.. ill try what you say (shorten the spring) tomorrow :) ill post results, thanks!

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>>1033289
I do it outside, I usually take a 10L hot water bucket with me along with pic related bottle and the cleaning stuff. I fill the bottle with water from the bucket and use the fancy cap as a hose.

It works pretty damn well.

I have an old m2 stumpjumper that's been rattlecanned black by the previous owner.

could I get rid of the rattle can paint with some graffiti remover ?

I just saw this video that gave me hope

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tg0XnoEh2hw

>>1034339
It might be possible, however car paint (that looks like a body panel) is very different to powder coat that would be on your frame. Also the previous owner may have scuffed it up before spraying it, and it may be chipped and scratched badly and that's why he painted it.

If I was you I'd just strip it completely and repaint it.

hey my friends of /n/

soon I will be moving to another country
I have two bikes that I do not want to sell, so I need to take them with me

what's the best way to proceed? the countries I'm talking about are not too far away (UK>Spain)

I kinda know what logistics company to use since I moved several times but I have no clue about how to pack the bikes to send them over

any clues?

>>1034339
depending on paint brand and type, oven cleaner can remove it

>>1034378
if you're moving shit in a shipping container, just take the wheels off, wrap the frame in newspaper and toss it in

it may make it easier to take the bars off too, although that would require disconnecting cables

>>1034422
Why would taking the bars off require disconnecting cables? Not him but my bike bag just straps the bars to the fork.

>>1034422
>shipping container
What? I don't have too much stuff, I'm going to use cardboard boxes (that's the idea at least). Actually my bike is the only thing that's "big".

I though maybe going to a bike shop and asking for a box? I'm really clueless.

I could tour all the way there too but I've got two bikes.

>>1034423
i guess yeah if you have enough slack to get the bars there
i have my cables short as fuck, so i don't think it would reach, but it might

>>1034425
oh, right on
yeah you could probably get a big box from them, they probably have some spare ones around from when they buy new frames

there are also specialty bike bags, but they're expensive

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>>1034282
>>1034068
small update. proceded to remove the lug (pic related), now i put the spring in the newly created hole. no chance for it to go off. but i have a lack of tension... wont go to the smaller cog. shiet! so i take everything apart. cut the spring, put everything back together, and now its working. still lacking a bit of tension for the lower gear. but its working. i think ill try to get a new spring somewhere.. cutting the spring again doesnt seem logic. i supose the metal is old and had its use.. also as the derallieur cant be opened.. i had to cut and bend the spring while still inside the thingy. was a total pain in the ass. but now i understand how this thingy works 100%... just need a new spring. thanks guys!

How bad is it putting a 700Cx tube onto a 630x / 27x rim?

Also, fugging tyre measurements....

>>1034487
That's a lot of work for a $5 derailleur.

>>1034572
Not that bad, some tubes are sized for use in both, you should be fine. I've done it before and nothing happened.

>>1034572
>>1034572
27" (630mm) and 700c (622mm) are close enough that you can use their tubes interchangeably, assuming width is similar.

>>1034589
>>1034586
great, thanks, that means I only wasted money for the tyre and not the tube :^)

>>1034572
I've been riding 26 tubes in 27,5 wheel no problem with that

>>1034609
That's the opposite. Stretching a tube is a lot easier than trying to stuff a larger tube into a smaller tyre, without it bunching up and bulging.

That said in that guy's particular case the difference is very small so it's unlikely to be an issue.

How do I ride without handlebars?

I got a new bike.. Just a cheap walmart special but whatever. it rides..

The cables for the shift and brake run down the bottom of the bottom tube of the frame so exposed if I ride in any wet conditions.

Should I 3-in-1 oil those cables with a paper towel or something or should I get some cable sleeves and cut them to fit?

>>1034728
learn to unicycle first

>>1034729
It's normal for cables to be run exposed under the bottom bracket, and it's near impossible to clog them with debris there in practice, so you don't need to do anything extra.

Things you SHOULD do on any new Walmart special: adjust the brakes properly (poor brake pad alignment is a common issue, verify there's grease on the seatpost, verify there's enough grease on the bearings in your hubs, bb, and headset, and true/tension the wheels (or pay a shop to do this step, all the others are simple things you can do with basic tools by following guides available online).

>>1034733
Yeah I had the plan in mind to take it some where and get it properly adjusted since they only put them together as display.

For the wet though. should I oil them? Cause my last bike was like that and the suspended cables started to corrode and rust a bit

>>1034735
I wouldn't worry about it, you're not going to prolong the life of a galvanized cable significantly without regularly re-applying oil, and replacing those with stainless cables is inexpensive. I'd run the current cables until you actually see rust, you should get at least a couple of months of use out of them.

>>1034741
Awesome..

I picked up the Genesis one with the disk brakes. funky shaped rims but it's got a high rating on the website and for $150. I can't go wrong really

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check out this chain i bought at a bike shop. 3 (weak) street bmx rides and the rollers are cracking and coming apart.

>>1034749
I examined a section of spare chain and some of the rollers had cracks in them. So i'm guessing a used chain was repackaged then sold to me.
Lesson learned; i won't trust bike shops if the mechanic is fat unless he has a ponytail.

>>1034755
demand a refund mate

>>1034749
>>1034755
Looks like the rollers are possibly made from bent flat stock instead of being cut from a tube, so it's possible they're not actually cracked and it's a used chain but rather it's just an incredibly low quality one.

>>1034781
yeah this. the fact that every single link is like it suggests it was made like that. If they were cracked you'd expect some to look like that but not all.

You can see a cutting mark in the bottom left link and the fact that they're all different sizes makes it look like just a really low quality chain.

>>1034749
>cheaping out on a chain, the component that wears out the fastest
>on a BMX of all bikes
Jeez

>>1034749
how much did you pay for that shit

Why does my bike weigh 30 pounds

>>1034807
Depends what sort of bike. That's fairly typical of an old ten speed, heavy for a modern road bike, about average for a hardtail mountain bike, pretty light for a full suspension mountain bike, etc.

>>1034787
>>1034794
$27, i had shown him my old chain ,which had snapped plates, and said i needed a strong one.

>>1034781
>>1034784
Yeah, all the rollers have a consistent diagonal split.

So i guess i wasn't sold a broken chain, just an overpriced-worse-than-walmart chain. Thanks guys.

We should make a Telegram channel for /n/. /g/ has a couple of channels and they're great fun.

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What kind of front wheel is this? What do I search on ebay?

>>1034967
looks like a standard [700c front wheel] to me, search that and you'll find thousands of options that will work for you. If you want the exact wheel you've got now, look close at the wheel and it should say RS### somewhere, that's the model number of the wheel and you'll find them available if you search for it.

>>1034967
Radial laced wheel

>>1034967
It's a bicycle wheel

How do I learn how to unironically ride without handlebars?

>>1034999
by trying and failing until it clicks. just unweight your front wheel by taking your hands off the bars and shift your weight through your trunk and hips back over the seatstay. correct lateral movement with your knees and keep pedaling. your foreward momentum will do almost all of the work for you.

BQG, why are the front and back wheels usually the same? They seem to do very different jobs. Why not have a big durable tire on the back, and something grippy and nimble on the front, like motorcycles?

Getting a touring wheelset built in a few weeks.
sunringle rhino xls
son delux wide body
dt swiss spokes
b&m iq-x
b&m toplight line
pit lock skewers

won't get the rear wheel done soon, but I'll prolly go with a phil wood ;x

>>1035009
Motorcycles are very different, they have a lot more power that needs to be transferred to the ground and a lot more weight. With a bicycle the grip is much more limited so you want the most grip you can get both front and rear, at the front for braking and the rear for climbing and then both for cornering. Of course there is a limit, you don't want to go for ridiculously larger tyres because then you have more weight and possibly more rolling resistance (and may have clearance issues).

>>1035010
OK

>>1034981
ty

I need a new wheel and apparently there's a lot of them on ebay.

So just search 700c front wheel?

>>1034999
Steer by directly grabbing the stem

How easy it it to bleed Avid brakes?

I've never done it before and I'd rather just get a shop to do it, but if it's easy enough I'll give it a go.

>>1035077
Avids aren't really any trickier than other kinds of brakes, but if you've never bled any hydraulics before you might want to pay a mechanic with experience to do it, and show you how the process goes at least once before you attempt it yourself.

Can anyone suggest what this "click/clack" noise coming from my BB might be a result of? It's a Wheels Mfg eccentric, PF30. Bike is newly assembled. I'd take it back to the shop but they're closed today and I wanna ride it, but not sure if it'll asplode in its current state. Ignore brake rub/wonky tire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKoOPXgF0cM

>>1035088
I would double check:
that the chain isn't too taut
that the bb cups are fully tight in the shell
that the bolts holding the eccentric in place are properly torqued

>>1035090
>that the chain isn't too taut
How taut is too taut?

>>1035088
pressfit, working as intended.

>>1035091
The chain shouldn't have noticeable slack hanging down below the chainstay, but if you grab it above the chainstay, between the chainring and cog, you should be able to wiggle it up-down a little bit, about an inch difference between the highest and lowest points that the chain can flex to. If it's too taut the chain won't have any slack in it at all and it's going to face a little bit of resistance every time it tries to engage with the teeth on the chainring, this often causes a noise because chainrings are never perfect circles and it's normal to have a (very slight) high spot.

>>1035060
sorry i made an assumption about 4chan that wasn't accurate.
can any reccomend me any better products than previously listed?

>>1035091
If the rear derailleur is pulled to its limit
>>1035088
Normally that means bb needs to be overhauled. If it's new maybe they fucked up and didn't grease it or didn't torque it tight enough. Or maybe not, idk
>>1035087
Mechanics at LBS generally won't teach people how to do stuff, better to just teach yourself (or get a job at a LBS to learn)
>>1035077
Look up a video tutorial
Make sure to get the right kind of oil (mineral oil, DOT 4, etc), it will be labeled on your brake levers
>>1035009
On bicycles, it's usually better to have a bit wider/knobbier and lower pressure on front for dh/enduro/etc. For other types of riding just have both the same
>>1034999
Stop being a downtube and just do it, faggot

>>1035110
No derailleur... bike is a single speed.

I found a lock ring wrench at work and tweaked the BB a little (after backing the bolts off a little). Seems to have made the noise go away... Will ride and hopefully it won't detonate today, and I'll get it into the shop tomorrow.

>>1035112
>No derailleur... bike is a single speed
Then it should be tight enough that it can't fall off the cogs. With one hand rotate the cranks, with the other pull the chain outward just before the rear cog, and see if you can pull it enough to make it come off the teeth as it rotates. If you can, it's too loose.
Basically it should be pretty tight but not super tight.

What can I do to bring my now brownwall tires to their original skinwall glory?

>>1035418
Clean them you fucking downtube. Dumonde citrus solvent is nice.

>>1035418
what he said - dish soap will work allright also

>>1032571
what's the thinkpad of bikes? I want something cheap but robust that I can ride a ton but not really have to care about while getting good performance out of it
(will be used for just cycling at night when I can't sleep or going to the shops)

don't care if it's ugly

>>1035537
this guy here
I like the look of those montauge folding bikes and on ebay they're only like 100 quid if they aren't the paratrooper version, is there any reason as to why I shouldn't get one?

>>1035537
90s rigid mtb on craigslist
>>>/n/bbg

Hay /n/, can't seem to find a thread that fits my question so I'll just ask.

What would /n/ suggest bike gear / parts wise for a person getting back into cycling. I got a bit fat after injury and I'm not as energetic as I used to be due to meds. Anything that can make the ride easier for now?

>>1035537

definitly a 90s mtb

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If I only ride on the pavement (sidewalk), do I need a helmet or lights? I travel along the same well-lit roads whenever I ride my bike and travel at a reasonable speed.

I was riding to work last week, somebody rode past me and shouted "Get some lights".

He looked like pic related and I was convinced he was just suffering from buyers' remorse.

>>1035729
nah man , get a light.
get some 10 $ china leds from ebay.
and point them on the ground not in the face of other people.

If you ride regularly I'd get a helm.
I'd even get something decent since I personaly find that I won't wear a heavy, badly vented helmet
but if you think you don't need one then don't it's your head.
the lights however make you better visible for other riders.

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Is it okay to use random stranger's slipstreams if you happen to be going the same way as them?

>>1035734
It's rude, you lazy fucking thief.

git gud or gtfo

>>1035746
I've never done it. I asked because I saw it and thought it looked off.

Watafuck guys? 4chan has one board for all types of transport?

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>>1035729

Well you haven't said where you live so I have no idea. Check your local laws.

The fact that you said "pavement" makes me think you're a Brit like me.

In which case here are our laws:

- It's illegal to cycle on the pavement. Stop doing that, you fucking moron.
- It's illegal to cycle without working lights (front and back) after dark. Even if the road is "well-lit", it doesn't matter.
- Helmets are your choice. No law there.

I've been stopped for both of the top two things, especially the lights one. Expect to get stopped, maybe fined, if you keep doing them.

The only time you can cycle on a pavement is if it's a designated cycle path.

This will be clear with a BLUE sign, with a white bicycle inside it (see pic).

Also, wherever you see a white and red sign with a bike (despite no line through it - see pic as well), that means NO cycling.

Yes that's right, it doesn't need a line through it. Yes, it's illogical. Don't ask me.

So stop cycling on the FUCKING pavement you fucking moron, you are giving cyclists a bad name. Get on the fucking road like the rest of us.

And yes, you need lights if you are cycling after dark, no matter how well-lit the roads are.

>>1035729
>>1035751

By the way I've been stopped for the lights thing many times.

I've never been fined because I've always either a) got my lights out my bag or b) agreed to get off and walk.

But if you cycle in a city with lots of cops around, you definitely will be fined if a cop repeatedly sees you without lights after dark.

>>1035751
Don't listen to this retard. Cycle on the pavement if you need to. The police have better things to worry about and it's better than being run over by a Polish lorryist.

>>1035761
>The police have better things to worry about
http://road.cc/content/news/208589-york-police-launch-bike-light-campaign
Do they?

>>1035729
>i only ride on the pavement
>at a reasonable speed
Well sure you don't "need" any of these safety things because you're obviously fucking retarded and begging to get seriously injured or killed.

The other cyclist doesn't have buyer's remorse he's concerned for you being FUCKING INVISIBLE. Nevermind that riding on the footpath you are significantly less visible to motoriststs. Don't be surprised when you get left hooked and made a byline in the paper..

>>1035734
you have to be right up on somebody's butt for it to be effective, so yeah, I would take offense to that.

>>1035752
a cop thought I was buying drugs or something (lol, only poor people ride bikes--this was like 04, too, no hipsters or yuppies on bikes yet) but when he couldn't bust me for that he ticketed me for not having lights.

if this happens to you, do what my cop friend taught me: buy some lights, save the receipt, and go to the court date. Show the judge the receipt and they'll throw out the ticket.

kinda funny story:
as I'm walking up to the front "your honor, I brought a receipt…"
he's squinting at the ticket "… does this say … *bicycle*?"
"yes, you see…"
waving his hand "just… forget about it."

but it works for taillights on cars, too. that's actually how my cop friend taught me (she pulled me over, lol)

>>1035717
Your reply is here: >>1035923
back in your own thread

>>1035734
I do this if someone pretending to be racing passes me.
2nd place FTW!

If I ride my roodo baiku in full kit and Wayfarer sunglasses, will people think I'm a casual or a fred?

>>1035944
>Wayfarer sunglasses
neither, they'll think your a hipster

>>1035734
It's only okay if they're aware you're drafting them and alright with it. Drafting increases the risk of crashing, so it should only be done when everyone involved is aware of what's happening.

>>1035946
Hipsters wear wayfarers? Aren't they too mainstream? I'd think clubmasters are more hipsterish

I notice that when I drive on the road and actually stop at stop signs, drivers are confused, because they expect me to blow through them.

If a driver has stopped at a 4 way stop, then I arrive and stop, they keep waiting, because they want me to go, even though it's their turn to go.

I find this incredibly annoying. Especially if we will both end up going the same way - If I go ahead, out of turn, they will end up behind me and have to pass me anyway. I wish that everyone would just take their turn.

I guess this isn't really a question.

>>1036006
Just wave them through.

>>1036006
I fucking hate this. they do it all the time

dear community,

I really want a seuoia elite and I could get one for 12% off , that's almost 200 €

however the year is almost over and I heard they want to drop the 650b version in febuary.
do you think the prices for the elite in 700c will drop after this ?
the elite right now is officialy the 2017 version.
dose that mean the prices will drop when the 2018 version comes out , maybe in fall 2017 ?

>>1035800
>my cop friend
she's trained to kill you, anon. that person isn't your friend.

>>1036006
Same
even worse is while you're waiting for the car to take their turn, and another cyclist from behind you blows through

almost makes me wish i had a mirror so I could see them coming and stick a leg/arm out

>>1036006
Similar thing happens to me quite a lot, where there are roads with cars parked on one side leaving only enough room for a single lane of traffic to pass. I stop to give way to the car and then they stop and even though they could quickly pull away they wait for me to mash away as I try not to inconvenience them too much. Not so bad when I'm riding my e-bike as I can accelerate almost as quickly as a car.

>>1033304
They look like they are designed to rape your ass if that's what you are interested in then yes.

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Dear /n/

What do?

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Talk me out of doing this

>>1036227
Paying tax

Really

>>1036224
Take apart, clean, grease, put together.

>>1036227
think about how you'll feel when it's stolen

>>1036232
any advice on how to take it apart?
pretty sure the tensioning nut and the lock nut have become one with the axle.

>>1036227
Do you have the skills to make that bike worth anymore than one at 50% of the cost?

>>1035473
Or one 5% of the cost?

If you do, then go for it. We need some people to keep fueling the stupidly priced top end bikes so that I can get my trickle down technology.

>>1036234
I keep my bike in my house and don't take it out apart for going on trails. I have a commuting/beater bike that if I need to go anywhere else I will use. If it gets stolen out of my house it will be insured so I'll get most of the money back.

>>1036236
Probably cant but since I started biking I've wanted a high end bike. I've been saving up since I started working at 15 (19 now) and thought I'd get one now. It will almost empty my bank account but oh well.

>>1036228
Canada

>>1036237
Don't do it dude. If you really want, get a $2 or 3k bike, that extra 4 grand is going to be so much sweeter than whatever small benefits you gain by going that high end.

>>1036237
I don't know exactly how your insurance works, but keep in mind it's highly likely they have an upper limit on items that a nice bike will be well over. You'd have to pay extra to specifically insure it.

>>1036295
I agree with this.

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I've got an aluminum frame bike with a triple and a clamp-on front derailleur and I'm considering converting it to a standard double, but in the off-season I'd want to switch to a compact crankset, so I'd rather I was able to use a braze-on derailleur instead. Anyone ever use an adapter like pic related?
http://www.jensonusa.com/!xnrvXcVxJwJqf4Ln1teNxA!/Problem-Solvers-Braze-On-Adaptor-Clamp?pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_us&pt_keyword=&gclid=CJPIpbL9kNECFYZlfgodoVUFCw
I wasn't specifically looking for this adapter but I came across it and thought it might be an interesting idea. Otherwise I imagine I'd have to take the whole bike to a frame builder and have them weld the tab on instead.

>>1036237
>I can't fathom the possibility of seeing my bicycle( that costs more than the majority of the world makes in a year) locked up in the truck, breaking the window, and hauling off.

>>1036338
Why would you rather use a braze on derailer? Is there a specific one you want to use that isn't available with a clamp, or in your particular size?

>>1036342
>but in the off-season I'd want to switch to a compact crankset, so I'd rather I was able to use a braze-on derailleur instead.

When you switch from a crankset that has a 53T big chainring to a 50T big chainring you have to adjust the derailleur or it won't shift correctly (or slam into the big chainring, depending on how it's adjusted). A braze-on is much easier to adjust than a clamp-on.

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>>1036338
>>1036364
>A braze-on is much easier to adjust than a clamp-on.
lolwut

Okay sure, making a slight adjustment to a braze-on derailer is slightly easier than with a clamp on derailer but it's not a significant difference - with one a height adjustment takes 20 seconds, the other takes 40 seconds.

To answer your original question: no, it might make sense (cheaper) to buy the adaptor if you already owned a braze-on FD you'd like to use, but otherwise you're just adding needless cost and complexity for no real additional benefit versus buying an ordinary clamp-on FD.

>>1036367
>with one a height adjustment takes 20 seconds, the other takes 40 seconds.
No, that's wrong. With a clamp-on you have two axes to adjust, height and rotation, and you have to have the clamp halfway tight while you're doing it, and when you torque the clamp the rest of the way the adjustment will change. It's a pain in the ass. With a braze-on you have ONE axis of adjustment, rotation is fixed and aligned already, and when you tighten it down it stays where you put it. Also with a clamp-on you'd risk scraping up the paint underneath it every time you adjusted it. A clamp-on is more appropriate for an application where you're never going to put a different crankset with a different big chainring on it (like a triple). Nope, sorry, wrong, can't agree with you, a braze-on is more appropriate if you're going to switch cranksets from normal to compact in the off-season, much easier to deal with. In any case you've never used the adapter I posted so I'm not all that interested in what you have to say anyway.

>>1036338
>>1036342
>>1036364
>>1036367
>>1036437

Clamp on is for bikes with round tubing
braze on is for bikes with oval tubing and carbon fiber wackyness that needs an integrated mount instead


ease of adjustment is irrelevant , you do it once so who gives a fuck, go with what your frame is compatible with

and putting a braze on adaptor on a frame that has round tubing is retarded if the derailer you wanted already comes in a clamp on variant
you're wasting grams with a big clunky adaptor now

>>1036437
>spending hours on an imageboard fretting over a purchase so you can save yourself a couple minutes in the future.
>2017
shiggeroony ma dude

you're literally worrying about your future ability to align the surface of the derailer parallel to the surface of your chainrings. it's dead simple. even if it's off, it's still going to work for you, because it's fucking age old technology. You should actually be worried that the brazeon system might not allow you enough vertical play in the slot to accomodate both positions and ring sizes.
literal over-engineering. solution looking for a problem.
I won't even get into how inane it is to be switching gear ratios instead of choosing a system and sticking to it.

don't forget that you'll have to fuss with your cable length and cable tension every time you switch derailer position.

>>1036227
Get the alu version if you NEED a Santa Cruz.

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>>1033018
>Don't buy bike shoes online. You have to try them on.
i blind-bought two pair of 5.10s off amazon

>>1036227
1. buy aluminum, my man.
2. you don't need Eagle. start with X0 or GX 1x11.
3. this is an enduro race bike. it's going to ride like potato unless you go FAST. if your trails aren't at least moderately burly and capable of supporting high-speed riding and like... 70/30 gravity-fed downhill versus pedaling uphill you're not going to have as much fun as you could be having on an equivalent Trail bike.
4. i know you're dead-set on buying the carbon Eagle setup (and thats fine. i know what its like to have-to-have the thing you want), so just really pay attention to #3.

pic related. i bought this over a Patrol because my home trails are more or less rolling river valley and woodlands and it is RAD.

>>1036472
>this is an enduro race bike. it's going to ride like potato unless you go FAST
>pedaling uphill you're not going to have as much fun as you could be having on an equivalent Trail bike.
Enduro and Trail are buzz words, just another way to describe mid travel full sussers. The Bronson is even advertised as a trail bike by Santa Cruz. Both bikes are pretty similar in geometry and suspension travel, what makes you think the Scout is going to be so much better at climbing? If that was my main concern (and money wasn't an issue) I'd go for the Bronson for less weight and greater gearing range (although I'd gear it lower because I'm not a babbylegs who needs 32:50).

Now, concerning whether to get the Bronson C or something else. Taking a quick look at the Santa Cruz site shows a £500 saving for going with the aluminium frame (all other specs the same), and personally if I was going to spend that sort of money on a bike I'd pay the extra for carbon. That said I wouldn't spend that much on a single bike if I wasn't competing, especially not if it had taken me 4 years of saving and would leave me almost broke.

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>>1036474
>what makes you think the Scout is going to be so much better at climbing?
Not SPECIFICALLY climbing, and not specifically a Scout versus a Bronson (in this case it would be a Bronson versus a 5010). rather just flatter terrain where a shorter wheelbase and less severe hta are going to feel a bit more lively than a big mountain sled.
Now if you do have mountain bike parks and/or actual mountains that you plan on riding then I could definitely see a Bronson or even a Nomad in your future.

>>1036477
>rather just flatter terrain where a shorter wheelbase and less severe hta are going to feel a bit more lively than a big mountain sled.
Sure, but the Scout and Bronson are almost identical in those areas despite one being "enduro" and one being "trail". Instead of slinging around meaningless buzzwords say what you mean, the bit that I've quoted.

However don't forget that we have no idea what the guy's requirements are, by all means make a suggestion but don't assume that the bike he's after isn't the right kind for him. A long and slack mid travel full susser may be exactly what he needs, so I'm not going to go saying that a short travel hardtail would absolutely be a better choice.

>>1036479
fair.

I wanna get a bottle-holder and water bottle for my bike.

Are these things usually bought in a set or do bottle-holders generally hold a variety of bottles?

>>1036490
The latter

Newfag here.

I'm going to treat my beater to some new tyres but it's my first time buying new tyres that aren't cheap, worn, second hand pieces of shit.

I was thinking of getting a pair of Maxxis Holy Rollers because I use it mainly as a commuter but most weekends I take it through the woods near my house or every now and then I'll get the train to the dales and take it down some big hills, bit I'm abit worried if they would they still hold up off road.

>>1036613
Thoughts??
Any feedback is welcome

>>1036614
Those would do well for paved and light off road use. The thing to avoid with those is bad mud.

if i attempt to mount a sidewalk laid out 180 degrees to the front of me, will i damage a road bike tire?

>>1036662
>mount a sidewalk laid out 180 degrees to the front of me
nigger
speak english

>>1036490
http://www.cafepress.com/forevershinkansen.1785538294

>>1036662
[assuming you mean 90 degrees]

well, either approach it fast enough to bunny hop it

or, approach it slow, shift your body weight back a little while you pull up on the bars so the front tire rolls up the curb, then immediately shift your weight over the steering column while the rear wheel rolls over.

if you try to just barrel over it, it'll probably give your tube a pinch flat and prob bang up your rim, too. you could be thrown depending on the speed, you'll surely have to dismount.

an mtb wheel will prob be OK, esp with a front shock, it might be able to roll right up.

>>1036667
90 degrees doesn't make sense either, that would be a wall

unless that guy is a bmx faggot

>>1036662
If you mean ride up a curb then no you won't damage a road bike tire, but yes you will damage a road bike tube and wheel. Don't do that on a road bike. Faggot.

im just trying to figure out the versatility of a road bike. i'm considering getting one but I'm also considering a hybrid. if a roadbike can be damaged by going up a curb it's not much good to me desu.

>>1036669
also will be riding in snow and rain without question. seems like a notch against the road bike.

>>1036669
there are roade bikes that are more or less fragile
most of the super light ones with low spoke count wheels are not going to be super practical to ride around on bad roads/jump curbs
however, an old ten speed with good tires on it and a well maintained drivetrain is pretty reliable

>snow and rain
for heavy rain disk brakes are nice, but not necessary
for snow you really just need some good tires and to learn to let the bike go where it wants

if you want something for commuting, get a 90s rigid mtb

>>1036669
>>1036678
also for going up a curb its all about technique, you gotta stand up, throw your weight back, kick down on the pedals and lift the bars, then shift your weight forward quickly and quickly lighten your grip on the pedals

>>1036669
>if a roadbike can be damaged by going up a curb it's not much good to me desu.

I've gone up billions of curbs on a road bike. If you do it like I told you it's no problem.

Rain is no problem. If curbs and rain were a problem, messengers would never ride road bikes, but they almost always do. thin tires on snow arre less ideal but I've done it

what would be a good upgrade of the wheels this bike comes with:
http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2016/Bikes/Living-Line-Previous-Bikes/Road/F/f75.aspx

Felt Road RSL3 (tubeless ready) wheels with Schwalbe Lugano HS 471 tires

can i make the bike lighter (at some point that it matters)?? will the upgreade be really noticiable?
thanks! the most logical upgrade please!

>>1036924

Rims:

Felt Road RSL3 (Tubeless Ready), 22mm Width, 24mm Depth
Front Hub:

Felt R3, sealed bearing, 28H
Rear Hub:

Felt R3, sealed cartridge bearing, 32H, 11-speed compatible
Spokes:

2.0mm stainless steel w/ aluminum nipples
Tires:

Schwalbe Lugano HS 471, 700c x 23c

>>1036924
You own the bike already, right? Get yourself some scales and weigh the parts yourself (front wheel, back wheel, and tyres and tubes all separately). You may be able to save a bit of weight but I'd imagine a bike of that leverl/price would already come with fairly light wheels, the overall weight doesn't seem heavy at all for an aluminium framed bike.

Does riding a bike develop your leg muscles or is it too easy?

>>1037201
it develops them differently than squats or deads
if you just want enormous quads, then do squats
if you want better balanced legs with more fast twitch muscle fiber, cycling is pretty good

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Can anyone tell me who makes these bars or a company who makes something similar? The riser wide bars. Thanks in advance

>>1037233
ritchey pro rizer is pretty similar

Are Maxxis innertubes any good?

I'm currently using 26" 2.2 Specialized tubes and they're about finished, so I've got a choice of Specialized again, Continentals or Maxxis.

File: P1010161.jpg (637KB, 1460x1095px) Image search: [Google]

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a friend of mine wants to start pedaling, short commutes and some sunday small rides just for fun. he got this bike for free. its working pretty well, thing is, frame is too small for him, he needs to put the seat at the height on pic to be able to pedal right. he feels comfy on the bike... but im sure thats way to high for that seat to go.. im telling him he should get a bigger frame..what do you guys think will happen if he uses the bike like that? seat post is gonna get fugged up right? or if its comfy its ok?thanks!

>>1037819
the seat post should be fine, unless theres only ,like, 2cm of post below the clamp.
if his bars aren't high enough, he'll definitely have back/shoulder pain though.

the frame actually seems like it fits him, it's the extreme geometry of the frame that's throwing you off? imagine if the bike had a top tube parallel to the ground like a "normal" bike; the seat isn't really that high up. look where it is in relation to how high the handlebars are: almost the same height. this is normal.

assuming this is the post that came with the bike, it should be designed to accommodate a rider that tall. if it's an aftermarket post, look for a line stamped on it that says "MAX HEIGHT" or something. as long as the line is inside the frame tubing, you're good.

>>1037819
Look for a marking on the seatpost about minimum insertion

What are some good secure (well, more secure than nothing) storage solutions for a city bike? I kinda wanted to carry a patch kit and collapsible pump around on my bike, but I live in a city with a lot of people who will steal literally anything not bolted down for funsies. Should I just bolt a lockbox down to my pannier mount or something?

>>1038036
is your seat height adjusted with a bolt or quick lock? when i park my bike in the city i just take out the seat , and the bag with tools wich is a seat bag or however its called.. not the best but oh well.

>>1038045
Huh, that sounds like it might work. I could fit a patch kit in one of those. Probably get in the way of my rear reflector though, maybe I could move it to the back of my pannier mount instead. Hm.

How do I fix things to bike?
I want to move a full-sized mirror from IKEA to home, about 10km, mostly by bike roads.
I have no idea. Inb4 one-word replies.
A good guide or even some resource dedicated to it would have been nice.

>>1038137
Assume you mean a full length mirror, like 5-6ft high, 2 foot wide? Surfboard rack maybe, I'd advise just finding a different way to take it home.

Does it matter at all if I use a shimano deore xt cassette and chain with a sram x9 derailleur?