/bqg/

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>>1008351
probably, also check if you could fit the tire on your rim and chainstay clearance

>>1008354
Rim is recommended 25-38 so that's all good and I measured everything on the bike, should be plenty of space.

I wouldn't worry about switching tubes. People with fat bikes will run a 2.4" tube in a 3.8 to 4.8" tires to save weight which is a considerably bigger jump.

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>>1008389
>saving weight on a fat bike

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>>1008351

the replacment for >>1005089 arrived. For 15€ more you get sum gud shit. M-520 never again.

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What are some good ligts from aliexpress?
And is something with a rechargable battery better than converntional batteries? I don't plan of riding on roads just need something if it gets dark while I'm in the woods.

>>1008399

I forgot to add that I was very surprised that the M-520 actually weigh 372 grams instead of 420g that wiggle lists. They are however 2 years old so maybe the more recent M-520 ones got shitier?

>>1008399
But those new ones use a hex tool to tighten instead of a pedal wrench. Seems like it would be a pain in the ass ergonomically tightening them from the inside of the crank arm, also getting sufficient leverage with a short hex tool.

>>1008351
Definitely. I was running 23mm tubes on 32mm tires and I got a couple of punctures, because the tube was so stretched out it bubbled right through a rim spoke hole, even with rimtape+electrical tape

>>1008434

The the hex hole is 2mm bigger then the other one. No problems with leverage here.

Two questions about a restore im doing.

1) are any frames made of stainless steel? Im pretty sure my frames just steel but idk,

2) is repairing shifters / brakes that easy or should i just replace them completely?

>>1008440
Yes but they're ridiculously expensive
Depends on a million factors

>>1008440
>are any frames made of stainless steel? Im pretty sure my frames just steel but idk,
If you're going for the "look" of stainless steel tool you can strip the paint, brush the steel and paint if with transparent lacquer for

Stainless steel wouldn't make sense as a material for bike frames, it has poor tensile strength, meaning you would have to use it more (like aluminum) but without the weight reduction.

So a stainless steel frame is both weaker and heavier than a regular cr-mo frame

>>1008443
Thanks, in that case im sure its not stainless steel considering how much it cost me

>>1008448
Nah im not going for the brushed look, i just needed to know because im going to do electrolysis on the frame and if it was stainless stell i couldnt since it would make some dangerous (and apparently illegal chemical) from the chromium in it

>>1008457
>from the chromium in it
All steel frames are made of alloys that contain chromium. Stainless just got roughly 10x more of it.

The most popular alloy for bikes is 4130 steel, which has ~1% chromium.

>>1008461
So your telling me I'll still generate hexavalent chromate? Even if it's at such a low level as you say it's still carcinogenic... Although such a small amount, as long as i dont dispose of it right, though it still affects the frames strength.

The frame is from the 80s, think its still 4130?

>>1008467
>>1008457
>>1008440
Stainless steel frames are rare, they're mostly custom jobs, and the only production stainless frame I'm aware of from the 80's was the Bridgestone/Kabuki Submariner.

Out of curiosity why are you considering using electrolysis on this frame? Paint removal? If you've got significant rust issues, that alone should tell you that you don't have a stainless frame.

>>1008469
The rust isnt too huge of an issue, i probably could get rid of it with sanding, but i would have to do it by hand where as i already have the stuff (and a spare few anodes suitable for this) for electrolysis. Plus the paint too, using stripper seems like a mess and sort of inconsistent.

Heres an image i posted earlier when asking about gears >>1008345

I wasnt sure about the stainless steel rusting thing since i dont know the difference besides composition, im not sure how long stainless takes to rust but i know it can

>>1008476
The downside to electrolysis is that it will produce pitting - if you already have a big enough tub to submerge the frame I'd consider an oxalic acid bath instead of electrolysis.

>>1008485
Looks interesting, although it doesnt look like it gets rid of paint, or am i mistaken? I didnt consider pitting actually, i thought electrolysis would return it close to its original state.

I it possible to put a carbon mtb handlebars on my alu stem, and if yes, should I do any preparations on it?

File: scott-pilot-sl-carbon-600mm-mountain-bike-flat-handlebar-stem-combo-1-1-8-xc-eb82e7c40efb4b91ac6b4c7ef96ada97.jpg (12KB, 500x500px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1008517
Also what are your opinions on these handlebars+stem combos

>>1008517
Yes, get a torque wrench

>>1008518
I wouldn't purchase proprietary products, ever.

>>1008492
Oxalic acid doesn't touch the paint (usually this is considered a good thing).

Assuming that the rust on the rest of the frame is comparable to what we can see in that picture, If you wanted to get rid of the paint and the rust at the same time, I would strip the paint, then physically scour off any small rust spots before applying primer.

>>1008518
Integrated stem+bar combos are great as long as you already know exactly what length stem you need.

I dont get how to set my front derauleur on my triple chainset. the tiagra brifter has 4 clicks to it, im assuming the 2 clicks in the middle are for the middle chainring so it doesnt end up crosschaining both ways, however the spacing to it doesnt seem to match up.

>>1008703
The trim position is used for the outer ring. And yes, Shimano road triple indexing is always a pain in the ass to setup.

>>1008711
so 2 clicks on the large chainring? doesnt seem to make sense but il try it.

I'm a fat guy and my wrists hurt sometimes after a longer ride.
When I go for rides, usually longer than an hour, I get aching wrists. I usually try to switch between hoods and drops to avoid pain but it still happens.
Do I need to adjust the angle of my bar? would gloves help? is there something I can do, or will it just go away after I've been riding daily for a while.

>>1008745
Stop being american and it will go away.

>>1008751
not american but i assume american = fat so yeah fair dig

>>1008745
Most likely the problem is from having a stem that's too long or the bars being too low. Can you ride comfortably with your elbows bent?

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>>1008745
try and use the flat section for a more upright position also try and use the ball of the hand more as it will reduce the stress on the wrist but move up to the next joint instead.
Basically you need to alternate between resting and stressing the wrist if it's a problem.
If all els fail while you are riding you can always lay your lower arms on the flat section of the bar as pic related.

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This is what my BB looked like after just 3k kilometers (already cleaned off most of the grime before I took the pic). Also, all the tubes that connect to the BB have openings into the BB tube, that's how all this shit got in there. Is this normal?

>>1008745
Go faster. More weight on the pedals. Less on the hands.

Get gloves.

Your fit may also be slightly off.

Also consider switching to a thicker tape.

So i cant remove the chain from my bike, i took of the derailleur but then the chain is stuck in the frame, and there's nothing else to unscrew.

I also had to cut off that wire in brakes to get the wire out of the frame.

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I have a cheap, chrome finish front derailleur covered in rust. Should I replace it or can I try to clean it up? I'm concerned it will make new chain rusty.

>>1008799
You're fucking retarded

>>1008799
WTF are you doing? Pics of bike and read sheldon brown.

Also, there's a specific tool for removing chains.

>>1008811
>>1008812
the wires need replacing anyway, theyve frayed

I'm trying to adjust a mechanical Avid rear brake on a Trek MTB. I've aligned the pads and adjusted them so they're as close as possible to the rotor without touching it. Here's the problem: when I start pulling on the brake lever, it brakes fine, but then I keep pulling, and something somewhere "snaps", and the brake goes loose. What could be causing this? Sorry, I know it's a bit vague. There are no visible loose screws, and the brake cable is fine.

What do you guys think about strap pedals on an older road bike? Kinda poor to afford spd+shoes, and i think this setup would look pretty cool / vintage. Thinking about getting mks pedals + a metal cage? Any recommendations on the setup? Also pretty much any advice you can give on this.

>>1008786
Yeah that's pretty normal if you're doing lots of riding in mud or rain. Consider adding fenders to your bike.

>>1008806
No, it won't make your chain rust faster. But you can improve the cosmetics by spraying on a little wd40 (or any other light lube, but wd40 works especially well) and scouring the rusty areas with some balled up aluminum foil (won't scratch the remaining shiny chrome).

>>1008826
That usually indicates that your cable housing wasn't completely seated while you adjusted cable tension, probably up at the brake lever.

>>1008845
Caged pedals were ubiquitous on road bikes from 1910-1985, they work extremely well, though for maximum effectiveness you still need to use them with stiff-soled shoes. MKS Sylvan, Track, Urban, and Touring pedals are all great choices, do note that toe clips come in various sizes to suit different sized feet.

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>mfw I just repaired an RSX brifter
I'd like to thank my dad for raising me a handyman and RJ the bike guy for his great video.

>>1008799
ffs, you either need a chainbreak tool or need to squeeze on the master link until it pops apart

but you're retarded, so just pay a bike shop to fix everything you've done so far

>>1008845
I have pedals like that on my commuter, they work really nicely, even when I'm wearing slightly dressy shoes

>>1008845
I got some 1000 km's ago and they're fantastic. My pedal stroke has gotten more symmetric, efficiency has gone up (2 kmh faster) and my bunnyhops are much higher.
Bought a second pair because I don't see how cages and straps are ever a bad idea.

>>1008351
any other zero offset seatposts than thomson?

short femur long torso faggot over here

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I'm this faggot from the last thread >>1008202

Looking to replace a rusted/worn out front derailleur on a beat-up wal*mart 21-speed mountain bike that will probably get stolen before the year is up.

What do I need to care about when buying a new derailleur for this disposable bike? I figured out that there are different clamp sizes and pull up/pull down models, but is there anything else I should be looking for, or should I just buy the cheapest one that is pull down and has the right clamp size?

I am worried that I will buy something and then the grip-shifter on this bike won't have the right range of motion for the new derailleur or some other goofy problem will come up.

ANybody lurking?

Say a road bike has rim brakes and higher volume tires. It also had a radial laced front wheel. Does the radial lacing exclude the bike from light gravel grinding?

I know that before disc brakes were norm, higher end MTB's has radially laced front wheels, but I have zero experience with radial lacing, soo...

>>1008963
Radial lacing is not a problem in the slightest.

Will any fizik saddle make my ass feel better? My ass hurts on long rides on my stock saddle and the fizik brand does seem to pop up everywhere

>>1008967
Thanks mate. When the time comes I might rebuild with a 2x pattern. Believe it or not, I like it better. But until then!
>>1008968
See if you can find a Nashbar XR-1 used. Literally a Fizik Antares at 1/6th the cost. Nashbar doesn't sell them anymore, but they do have similar saddles right now.
But none of them look the same, so yeah. XR-1 used. It's aces.

>>1008968
>>1008970
Did some digging. Can't find an XR-1 used.
Did find a fizik thar. It's very very similar. Has a rounder shape and a shorter nose, though. Plus it's only 60 burger bucks.

competitivecyclist.com/fizik-thar-saddle-kium-rails?skid=FIZ002Q-BLA-ONESIZ&CMP_SKU=FIZ002Q&MER=0406&CMP_ID=PLA_GOc014&mv_pc=r101&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PLA&CSPID=0914&mr:trackingCode=EB4C5788-7190-E411-B8C0-001B21BCB944&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=plaonline&mr:ad=81822233821&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:tid=pla-120396382621&mr:ploc=9013521&mr:iloc=&mr:store=&mr:filter=120396382621&gclid=Cj0KEQjwvIO_BRDt27qG3YX0w4wBEiQAsGu3eRggJYHxp7v57OUTCs9wTVls37otQIX4TMRym4-67mMaArmR8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

>>1008968
No

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This part of my bikes frame is bent from a crash, what should i do

>>1009165
buy a new frame

>>1009167
i was considering bending it back to place but i thought that might destroy the metals durability

>>1009177
Post a pic for evaluation. I've bent my steel fork back into true and rode another few years with it until I abandoned the frame alltogether. It's possible

>>1009177
you cant bend aluminum, if you tried it would snap.You wouldn't have this problem if you had a gween tee frame instead of calfee

>>1009165
Is the frame the same as the one you posted? Carbon lugs with what I assume is alu tubing? If so, it's fucked. If it's an all alu framed bike it's fucked. If it's a steel bike it may or may not be fucked depending on how bent it is and if there are any cracks. Post more pictures.

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>>1009186
>>1009180
that was just a random frame, mine is steel and bent just near the welding point. Total bend it about 10 degrees and straight (as in the bend isnt curved). I should have just posted this to start honestly, but ive already asked a few questions about this specific bike...

>>1009195
You've got a good chance of making a full recovery. If possible, get a buddy who knows his shit about steel and then do it properly. Build a wooden frame/vice so you can properly control the force and motion of your bending. Go for slow and determined movements, don't hammer it or other such actions. Maybe look up a thread or video about this kinda thing?

Anyone know where can I get cheap cycling clothing online? Looking for brands like Pearl Izumi, Bontrager, Castelli, etc I don't care about the season or colors, I simply like the quality of those brands.

US stores, thanks.

does any of you live in a city with a lot of cars and pollution?in my commute i have to take a route that is very crowded with cars and i can feel the cancer getting into my lungs when i'm there.
can wearing a mask filter the bad gases at all?

>>1009226
I got a northwave jersey on Amazon for like $12 once and ebay always has alpinestars stuff cheap. PI socks are expensive everywhere. Also the chinese shorts on amazon are actually good if you can get lucky and pick the right size. I like them better than PIs.

>>1009232
That thing you mention is part of the problem. I'm not in the US, so if the size isn't good for me, I'd be stuck with ill fitting clothes forever.

I ask about those brands because I already know them, their sizes and quality.

But you're right, eBay is a great place to start. Once I got some kickass PI winter gear 50% off Amazon's price.

Thinking of switching to high carb diet to get rid of the excess fat i have

any tips , suggestions?

>>1009249
low sugar, drop dairy and soft drink.

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What is the difference between a gravel bike and a cyclocross bike?

>>1009287
Memes

>>1009226
thrift store hunting. i got me a nike cycling jersey for five dollaroos.

>>1009226
aliexpress - home of cheap with free shipping. just takes a month to arrive.

https://www.aliexpress.com/af/category/200106001.html

>>1009303
>with free shipping
arent items taxed upon arrival?

>>1009321
Not in the US. Might be different elsewhere.

>>1009321
I've never been taxed. You do on valuable orders though like wheelsets and frames, in the UK you're likely to get away with paying no tax on a small order of clothing.

Aliexpress clothing is shit-tier quality though. I bought some bibs from there when i got back into cycling and replaced them with proper stuff like a month later. For the brands OP asked about, just keep an eye out for clearance deals, usually at the end of a season. I got some decent bontrager thermal tights for 70% off in spring and a nice Gore jersey for £20 just because it was last years design. Also consider house brands like DHB from wiggle, they're pretty good quality.

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>>1008879
> But you can improve the cosmetics by spraying on a little wd40
perfect thank you!

>>1009326
I would like to add that this post that Decathlon has a house brand called B'twin, I believe it's French, you can find it in Belgium, France, Netherlands and UK at least. I don't know where else

http://www.btwin.com/en/228-cuissards-shorts-et-maillots-vtt-velo-route-homme

All my equipment is from them, it's quality stuff. I don't know how they do it

>>1009335
Remember that any area you've cleaned of rust will rust all the more if you don't cover it up with anti-rust, paint or just a layer of oil/grease.

How can I use a 165mm carbon 1x crankset to murder everyone on earth today? It is 34t n/w fyi

Shimano 7 and 8 speed shifters have the same pull ratio, right? So as long as I adjust the limit screws, I should be able to use a 8 speed cassette with a 7 speed SIS shifter?

>>1009335
I never understood why this was an example of superflat. Stylistically it's not superflat at all.

>>1009415
>Shimano 7 and 8 speed shifters have the same pull ratio, right?
Nope, the cassette spacing changes from 5 to 4.8mm.

>>1009415


http://www.sheldonbrown.com/drivetrain-mixing.shtml

>>1009226
>>US stores, thanks.

Why? All the good cheap online stores are based in UK, and sometimes germany.

You get them tax free, and shipping is usually free for a decent threshold. Wiggle, Chain reaction, planet x, etc.

>>1009287
Gravel is to cx as endurance is to race road bikes.

More relaxed geometry, and often support for stuff like racks and fenders.

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wasn't there a chain lube infographic floating around somewhere?

>>1009482
yea but it was put together by a leading marketing propaganda company that favoured the highest bidders.

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>>1009488
fuckin' a

How are internally routed cables to work with? Seems like it would be an unnecessary pain in the ass for what's mainly an aesthetic thing. Been looking at a Raleigh criterium sport that's going cheap locally but it's one of the things putting me off.

>>1009594
Internally routed cables can be annoying to route, but don't let that put you off a good deal - it's not like you have to recable your bike everyday or even every week.

>>1009488
I dont think paraffin wax is a huge company that bribed the people who put the graph together....

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guys,
I have a 15 € paypal that is applicable on a ebay order over 30 €
what should I get ?
maybe decent light ?
what would you get ?

>>1009709
Something I needed

>>1009714

a month earlyer I would have had so many small things to spend this on , but right now I feel like I bought all this shit.

>>1009424
relax, this isn't superflat

Okay guys I'm about to start crying like a baby, I got hit by a car some weeks ago and my rear wheel got fucked, I'm trying to fix it by replacing only the rim because it's the only thing that's fucked, everything else seems to be perfectly fine.

The spokes fit nicely into the new rim, everything works, but I'm trying to true it and I'm fucking clueless.

Right now I'm in the process of dishing the wheel, and I finally managed to get it almost perfect (maybe 2 or 3mm off, I'm okay with that), however to get to that point one of the sides of the spokes feels much tighter than the other, is this normal?

I though about just biting the bullet and taking it to a shop but I'd rather learn how to do something new.

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>>1009739
First, are you certain the new rim has the same ERD and drilling pattern (is there an offset?) as the old one?

But yes, it's totally normal for the driveside spokes to be under more tension because the spokes are a bit shorter and have a steeper bracing angle (because the hub flange on that side sits closer to the center of the hub).

Fun fact: there/are were designs that intentionally try to do away with the difference in spoke tensions on sides of a wheel by making the driveside flange extra large.

>>1009482
I just use motorcycle chain lube from the auto parts store

>>1009741
lmao /n/ reminds me of 2011 /p/ or /fit/, people seem to be nice and know their shit around here. Thanks.

I'm not sure the rims are the same, the old one is this one http://www.mach1.fr/en/rims/cfx-47 and the new one is this one http://www.mavic.co.uk/rims-road-triathlon-open-elite. They're both shitty rims and I think they're the same type but I'm not 100% sure. Did I waste 20 quid? I made some progress and it's almost true now, but it's not perfect and the spoke tension is all over the place.

I can notice two differences in the rims, the new one is of lower profile and the spoke pattern is zig zagged, whereas the old one is straight holes and a bit higher profile. Both 36 holes obviously.

>>1009748
>Did I waste 20 quid?
I'm afraid so. According the internet, the ERD of your old rim is 597 and the new one 610. If you look at your spokes, I presume there are some exposed threads?

As for what to do next, you'll have to figure out whether it's cheaper to buy a new wheel, or to order new spokes (I can't comment on where exactly you'd get cheap spokes outside of North America). If you do replace the spokes, here's a page with a calculator and a guide to the things you may need to measure:
https://leonard.io/edd/

>>1009754
Yeah the nipples are not taking the full thread. Fuck. Still I don't want to buy a new wheel, I want to fix this one so I'll get new spokes. Thanks man.

Wasting money and time is usually part of learning I guess.

What can go wrong if I keep these spokes?

>>1009756
>What can go wrong if I keep these spokes?
You will never reuse them. Those spokes will sit in the bottom of drawer for the next 40 years, and the people who help clean out your house after you die will think of you as a hoarder. Do you want to be remembered as a hoarder?

>>1009760
I don't know if you're just joking or didn't get the question, I meant what can go wrong if I somehow manage to true the new rim with the old spokes, can they break or something? Will I instantly get killed by a cager?

Also I can't find my exact rim in the calculator you posted, what is OSB? The zig zag the spoke holes do? Where can I find the datasheet for the rim?

This shit's confusing or I'm dumb as fuck, it took me less time to figure out how to compile a compiler.

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My inseamx0.66 is 51.46 cm
I can only get the frame size 50 or 53cm,which one should I get?

Its an "endurance" type road bike btw.

Any tips to straighten a steel derailleur hanger? I never seem to be able to get them straight

>>1009768
50 frame, swap out the stem with a longer one. frame geometry is a meme, you can make any frame 'endurance' or 'aggressive' by going 1 size up or down and playing with the stem length and height.

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I'm reading some bike fitting guides trying to tweak the setup on my bike and a few of them indicate that for optimal pedaling your knee needs to be inline with the middle of the forward pedal when the cranks are horizontal.

I've moved my seat as far forward as it'll go and it's not enough to get into this position, when the cranks are horizontal my shin is pretty much straight vertical so I still need like 5cm.

My seatpost is similar to pic related in that it sweeps back at the attachment point, can I turn the seat post 180 degrees to that sweepy-back-bit is facing forwards towards the handlebars to give me a further forward position? Or is this just not that big a deal?

>>1009765
I was making a dumb joke. There's nothing wrong with reusing old spokes.

Yes, Off Set Bead is the zig-zag pattern. With your rim though, the pattern isn't wide enough to matter, you can treat it as 0 offset.

>>1009771
are you using the proper tool (pictured) or are you just eyeballing the hanger? Because you really need to the tool to check alignment relative to the wheel - the trick is to use the tool to find the high/low spot (indicator) relative to the rim, bend the hanger a little, check again, bend, check, bend - repeat until the hanger is perfectly aligned with the rim no matter what angle you check at. With some practice you'll get good at doing this.

>>1009786
The 'KOPS' system is a guideline for fitting road bikes, not an absolutely rule, and we can't diagnose your fitting issues without seeing you on the bike. You might conceivably need a zero-offset seatpost, but that depends on your frame and the way you ride. As for that post being turned around, you can try but I don't think it has enough range of saddle angle adjustment to work.

>>1009798
>As for that post being turned around, you can try but I don't think it has enough range of saddle angle adjustment to work.
I don't own that seatpost specifically I just google imaged an example. If there's no reason why turning the post around is bad then I'll give it a go and see if it has enough angle to get horizontal. If not I'll look into a new seatpost I guess.

I should probably just save up some money and get a proper fit done at a bikeshop.

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>>1009768
50cm would be preferable to a 53 because?
Would a longer stem steer better than a shorter one?
Isn't it ideal to have your hands on the still levers exactly above the front wheel axle?

Its a bretty notice bike,I'd h8 getting the wrong size.

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>>1009807was meant for >>1009776 and any other bright minds obv.

>>1009768
>>1009807
Not the first guy, but you'd be okay with either frame really. But I agree, I'd go for the smaller one - for no other reason than a smaller frame will be marginally lighter. You'll need a longer stem with the smaller frame, but it won't be long enough as to noticeably impact your steering.

Should I buy this?
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2026293/

>>1009847
If it's your size, go for it. Price is fair if everything works (when you test ride it, see if you can get the Mavic freehub to make noise - no big deal if it does, but you can negotiate the price down a little since you'll need to replace the bushing).

anyway to prevent chain skip when biking down a shitty bumpy hill?

>>1009883
"chain skip" is when the chain fails to engage with the cassette during pedaling because one (or both) items are worn out - did you mean to ask about chain slap on the frame, or something else?

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>mfw fixing up 3 different bikes
>all with a different seat tube diameter
Gods this is retarded.

I've got flats on my roadie and it is embarrassing. Should I go SPD or SL?

I'd love to say I'm doing 100 mile rides each weekend but instead I'm doing a 20km commute daily. Leaning towards SPD for double sided ease- no other reason.

>>1009936
Pick out your shoes first.

>>1009937

Wouldn't things generally be standard by brand? Other than stiffness in the sole, is there any difference in width or proportions between MTB and road shoes? I understand the tread is different but materials, fastening etc seems generic across.

I should add, I would be looking lower end shoes so I'm expecting no great shakes on weight etc.

I've been running 2.3" tubes with my 3" 29+ for years with no problem.

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>>1009939
get the mountain bike ones, road shoes arent intended to be walked in, there are also plenty of casual spd shoes.

>>1009940
good luck, its hard to find cheap cycling shoes. I would try big cycling stores as they usually have old inventory they are trying to get rid of and have decent discounts. Or you will have to gamble and order online and hope you get the right size.

Man bike shoes are a swindle. What sort of marketing machine convinces people to pay more for shoes which suck for walking in, to do an activity which involves no walking?

>>1009974
yeah fuck ski boots and ice skates too
and roller blades

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>>1009954
i wear exactly these shoes with this jersey when i'm out mtbing

any good non-faggy looking cycling gloves out there?

>>1010230
I don't like gloves myself, but I have a buddy who always rides with $2 mechanics gloves you can find at a hardware store. Apparently they work well, and they're definitely not flashy.

>>1010230
mechanix

The gear ranges on my bike are horrible, everything is far too slow. Can I fix that by buying a new cassette? And if I do, how do you replace a cassette? I haven't actually looked at it closely yet tbqh but I don't see how it comes off the wheel.

>>1010441
You can fix it by not mashing so hard... probably.
Do you know what's actually on the drivetrain?

Cassette is an easy swap, you need a chainwhip and a lockring remover.

If I go into the drops while riding slowly (20mph) will people laugh at me?

>>1010447
depends if you tell them a funny joke

>>1010447
Your local TV station will send a helicopter to film you just so people can gawk at the guy riding slowly in the drops.

I'm trying to true a wheel. Lateral adjustments are easy enough for me, I can get the wheel to ~1mm lateral wobble which is good but I'm having big problems trying to make it radially true, any tips?

It's a brand new rims, new spokes, new hub so nothing is bent or fucked, I'm just new.

It seems no matter how tight I get the nipples the wheel doesn't change radial shape. Am I missing something obvious?

>>1010471
when radially truing, keep in mind that you have to change tension on all the spokes around the high/low spot AND the corresponding spokes on the opposite side of the rim.

>>1010483
I've been changing the tension on the spokes 90 degrees to each side of the bump, doesn't that make sense?

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>>1010485
If the high spot on the wheel was at 6:00, you'd loosen the spokes at 6 and tighten the spokes at 12 to pull it in that direction. You would not need to touch the spokes at 3 and 9.

>>1010485
No. If you have a local bump, tension the two/four/six spokes directly under the bump by one to two turns. Then loosen the corresponding number of spokes on the opposite side of the wheel exactly the same number of turns.
The hub floats freely. If you tighten a spoke then the force is connected and applied equally to the spoke in line with it, on the other side of the hub. So if you have a bump on one side, you have a dent on the other. If you keep tightening to get rid of the bump you'll make the dent as much deeper as you're making the bump smaller. And as a bump is a vault shape and structurally stronger than a flattened portion of rim on the other side, you end up where you are now: you can keep adding tension till you damage the rim without the bump getting smaller.

You need to shift the hub within the wheel matrix. This is done by loosening one side and tensioning the other. Just adding tension doesn't work as intuitively expected once the spokes are sufficiently pretensioned.

>>1010485
Also, think of the .echa ical advantage. The spokes are at a shallow angle to the rim. This means a small change in tension will shift it a lot, sideways. To change the elevation of the rim relative to the hub you have the opposite effect, where you very nearly have to lengthen/shorten the spokes as much as you want the rim to move. If you have a one millimeter offset of the hub within the wheel you're going to have to unscrew/screw a whole millimeter of gang, on both sides of the wheel. That's a lot of turns.
This is why making the wheel round should have much higher priority much earlier in the wheel building that making it straight. It's very awkward to work in the order you've chosen.

I want a cycling computer, specifically one that measures power.

Any cheap recommendations?

I also want to get two sets of sensors so I can switch between bikes.

>>1010487
I'm pretty sure you want to loosen first and tighten second.

>>1010486
>>1010487
>>1010491
I've been trying to true it like this for the last hour and the problem does not get better, it just changes.

I find a bit of the rim that's too out, loosen opposite side, tighten the side where the rim's too out and something else gets really fucked.

I'm not sure the rim is not centered relative to the hub because when I spin my wheel it touches with the pencil I'm using twice, I think the wheel is just not round.
>>1010503
That's what I've been doing.

Jeez wheel building's got a nice learning curve. I suck so bad. I've put at least 12 hours on this one (first one) and I'm still far from finishing it.

>tfw i could just buy a shitty wheel to replace my shitty wheel for 70 bucks but rather learn how to do it
feels so good

So if I'm going to leave my bike outdoors locked to a bike rack basically all the time, is it better to loop my U-lock through the front wheel or the back?

I was assuming the front wheel + frame would be preferred because it's the easiest one to steal, but the local police department advises to lock through the rear wheel + frame.

Or am I just going to have to buy a second lock, and lock both wheels? Bike is shitty and old, not a high-value target.

Is it fine to leave your bike attached to a trainer?

>>1010531
Rear wheel is more valuable because of the cassette and hub, so that's why it's recommended to lock it instead of the front. If your front wheel doesn't have a quick release, and it's shitty enough, I doubt anyone's going to steal it. If you're still uneasy, get a cable lock for the front wheel.

>>1010531
Run a ulock through your rear wheel, seat post tube and the bike rack. Run a cable lock through your front wheel and the frame and bike rack.

>>1010543
>>1010546
Thanks bros. I'll hit walmart up for a $5 cable lock and use that for the front wheel. it has a quick release that I was thinking about removing - I already removed the seat's quick release because lol free seat - but I'll just lock it instead.

>>1010551
You can always do both, hex skewers are dirt cheap
Plus I find they give your bike a cleaner look.

Complete novice. I only rode a bike during my middle school days. Ive never browsed here before but i trust you guys know your stuff. Could you fellas link me to some good introductory guides for buying a bike? What to avoid and what are necessities? I dont know much about different styles or even brands. If it means anything, im looking for one to ride on my uni campus and transportation onto the surrounding neighborhoods. Im 6'0 and average build.

Thanks.

>>1010613
basically dont get anything department store tier. give us your commute distance and terrain and how much dosh you plan to spend.

>>1010498
>measuring power
>cheap

>>1010503
No. You should have way more than enough of a margin that overtightening is not an issue. How do you think you're going to stress relieve the wheel later, if a few more turns now would damage anything?

>>1010628
Not too long, i want one just to get around faster, like 2 miles. Maybe 4-6 on weekends. Terrain is just regular paved roads and cement side walks.

Id be willing to spend around 700, but if anyone can, also recommend a cheap ~350 one.

Are there any infographs/wikis this board has? Whoevers the mod should really make a sticky.

>>1010670
Pretty much anything will work. Your used options are the classic old steel 10 speed and the 90's steel mountain bike, or the newer equivalents.

No suspension.

Avoid shit that's labeled a flat bar road bike, unless the price for the spec is really, REALLY good.

My first choice would be a CX commuter type. That's available at the high end of your price range, but will require a bit of luck.

Another idea:
http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/coda.html

About 370 MSRP. Should be available for under 350.

>>1010656
That's exactly why I'm asking here.

>>1010694
I commute on a CX bike, it's perfect.
>don't have to swerve into traffic when theres a bump, pothole, manhole or other shit in the side of the road
>no problem with curbs
>geometry is more relaxed which is OK for commuting
>most newer CX bikes have disc brakes and mounts for panniers
>sunny? no prob
>rain? no prob

getting a CX commuter, best decision I've made. Got a CAADX 105, such a nice bike.

Get it now, there's the end of the season and there are discounts in a lot of shops at least in the UK.

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Can someone id this bike please
I know it is a carraro but idk what model it is
It has deore components

What size stem should I use on my xc bike. I upgraded my handlebars from 66cm to 77 cm and I want to know if i have to shorten my stem or not. Current stem is 100 cm. Would steering be too sluggish with that stem?

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would you say this bike is too big for me?

I'm 173 cms (5 feet 8 7/64 inches)

>>1011023
No, it's your size

>>1011023
how big is the bike? whats your inseam?
it looks fine for you're height tho, maybe a little big?

>>1011028
alright thanks, anon

>>1011037
it's a 55 cm, inseam I don't remember just now, but when I was doing the research before buying I measured it and it was within limits

I was just looking at the saddle height, and other pics of bikes with the saddle all the way up to the fucking sky

another factor is that I'm long torso short femur, and the cranks might be 175 mm (I don't remember just now, it's in storage)

I'm deciding on getting a 2014 Lapierre Audacio 200 or a 2017 Specialized Allez E5, which do you guys think would be best?

>>1011043
i ride a 58cm frame and i'm 186cm.

It should be fine if you lower your saddle but say goodbye to your balls.

Any reason not to buy this to ride 3.5 mile commute each way?
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/2977698.htm

>>1011049
I'd say it should be fine so long as you're not particularly tall or have much elevation to cover.

>>1011049
yeah, for the money you could look for a used bike and get much better quality components for the price.

I can't imagine how garbage a 74gbp bike must be.

90s rigid MTB with fenders and racks are the current hot shit in the "cheap daily commuter that noone will steal" department today

Hey everyone,

What's the carrying capacity/weight limit of an average drop bar? I need it to carry two packs of water (each pack weighing around 9kg, one pack per side) for around 10 minutes. I figured it's perfectly fine, seeing how when I'm cycling and I apply some of my weight onto the bars, that's more than 18kg, right?

>>1010726
There's no way of measuring power without a power meter. you can estimate power, but those are so hilariously far off that you may as well pull numbers out of your ass. The cheapest you're going to get is Power2Max FSA Gossamer cranks at around $600.

>>1011079
Isn't the 4iiii crank $400 or so? Stages left side is also relatively cheap.

>>1011081
Yeah, 4iiii is $399 but left-side only so not 100% accurate unless you have a perfect pedaling technique, which you can't measure without having both sides.

I like the Powertap P1 pedals because I can switch them between bikes, but of course they aren't so hot for people who prefer speedplay or something other than LOOK style pedals.

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Hey /n/, I bought a second hand Fredarello Paris (from 2011) three weeks ago. After a ride last Friday I cleaned the bicycle and discovered what seems to be a chain suck damage. I had a chain suck two weeks ago, but didn't check the frame afterwards. So I guess it's on me, not the seller. Now the scratch doesn't look so bad, but it's carbon, so I'm not sure whether to ignore it, repair it myself (my father has some experience with carbon fiber) or have it fixed professionally ... wat do?

>>1011089
GARBONFREDS WILL DEFEND THIS

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>>1011098
I know, yeah. Had a steel road bike before, decided to go full fred, and now this ...

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>>1011089
>wat do?
Wait a hundred years then repair it with Cylon Organic Resin. Or else try Nanomachines.

>>1011043
>I was just looking at the saddle height, and other pics of bikes with the saddle all the way up to the fucking sky

that type of thing is because compact frames or slightly undersized frames with slammed stems and drops=aero/weight/gottagofast memes. which is fine, but your set up looks normal.

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Just got this. Did I make a good purchase? Went to buy brake pads and remembered that I need a light. Literally bought the first thing the guy behind the counter handed to me without even reading the specs on the box. Just gave him a short description of my riding habits.
I'm charging it now and going for a test ride soon.

>>1011159
>750 lumens and rechargeable
You did good

>>1011160
For once an impulse buy didn't backfire.

>>1011160
And it looks like the Lumina is made in the US, which is always a positive thing.

>>1011159
I'm sorry it's a little irrelevant, but what currency is that?

>>1011171
Euro. I'm from Finland.

>>1011174
perkele saatana jumalauta vittu dippis alkoholiton kuohuviini

>>1011175
You know more Finnish than most """refugees""".

>>1011177
PERKELEEN PERKELEEN RAAVETIN RYÖTTINEN KIPPIS VAINEN

I'm trying to learn a bit of finnish, it's an awesome language desu. greetings from sweden

>>1011174
Damn son, impressive having enough money to be able to afford a 129 euro product.

>>1011174
btw here's a crazy Finnish song I like
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkrLg2EAMDE

>>1011180
And apparently quite hard for non-native speakers. Or what do you think?

>>1011181
Are you being sarcastic?

>>1011183
I prefer the original version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1QlpS_oYiI
And here's some fine Finnish black metal:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEYAv13D9s8

>>1011089

I'd fill in the crater with some epoxy, make a little skid plate out of some sheet aluminum, and attach it there to keep it from getting damaged further.

I'd do a full drivetrain service to make sure the limits are set right and inspect the chain and rings for wear as that'll greatly increase the chain of throwing the chain off. That small ring looks pretty crappy, but it might just be the potato.

>>1011185
>And apparently quite hard for non-native speakers. Or what do you think?

I concur, but trying to decipher it is part of the fun

>>1011049
Everything on it will break within a month and it'll be cheaper to buy a new bike than get it fixed.

>>1011186
Thanks, m80. That's what I had in mind, maybe fill it up with a sheet of carbon fiber too.

Actually, I had a full service done when I bought the bike. The chain is new, Campa Chorus. Everything else is Super Record and has a mileage of ca. 1500 km according to the seller. So I don't think that's the problem, the bike is running pretty smoothly too. Just my luck, I guess.

To not completely derail this thread, can someone recommend me some ergonomic saddles for XC? Or even general guidelines for choosing a saddle. I've fiddled with my current saddle and the numbness won't go away. The anons in the saddle thread seem to be more worried about whether Brooks is worth the money or not.

>>1011188
Best part:
Written and spoken Finnish are really different. When you get to dialects you pretty much have to start over. Even some Finns have a hard time understanding my broad Savonian dialect.

>>1011185
>Are you being sarcastic?
No, I mean in genuinely. I live in Hungary... I'm lucky if I'll find a job with a 700 euro salary.

>>1011198
Measure the bones in your ass first by using sand or an assometer so you know about what width to start at.

>>1011203
Well that sucks. Just don't leave your country or the wages will never raise for anyone. You need more export and that only happens with hard work and high quality products and services. Sadly.

>>1011205
Around 11 or 12 cm.

How much tolerance is there on drivetrain parts? Like if I have a 6 speed cassette and I put a 7 speed derailleur on it is the mismatch going to be intolerant or barely noticeable?

>>1011257
As a general rule, you need parts that are from the same maker and same generation of 'speeds' (eg. you can mix and match all kinds of Shimano 9-speed components) - but there are rare exceptions to this rule and some odd combinations of things from different brands and generations that work together.

Here's a good page that explains things and a lot of the exceptions:
http://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/components/transmission-gears/derailleur-gears/shimergo

>>1009613
but its some shit that nobody actually uses, good way to mislead people into buying the second in the list

>>1008745
Is your saddle parallel to the ground? If it's nosed down too much you'll slide forward and have to compensate with your arms/hands.

>>1009415
If it's a down tube shifter you can set it to friction shifting by turning the little metal hoop on the side of the shifter. It won't be indexed but you can shift anything that way. If it's a brifter then idk.

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>>1009768
Damn my inseam x 0.66 is 51.15 cm

I'm 6' so I've been using a size 56 frame, how much will my fit improve if I upgrade to a much smaller bike then buy a 150mm stem?

>>1009936
You can't usually adjust the tension on SPDs which can make it a little scary to start and if you ever need to yank your foot out cuz some cunt cut you off. They also, to my understanding, don't usually have any float. Essentially you want a little play or float in your cleats because you can fuck your shit up if they aren't set exactly where they should be. Even then it's mostly pros who care about the minimal performance gain from having a fixed cleat. Lastly the shoes are on average stiffer and lighter. Go SL though so people don't judge you.

>>1011276
it depends, do you have a good back,flexibility and ride aggressively? also you measured your full inseam right? no shoes from the floor to your sit bones? not the inseam you use for pants sizing.

>>1011159

>129 of culturally enriched money for 750 lumens led

Are you fucking srs telling him he did good? You can get 900 lumen cree t6 led + 2x panasonic 18650 with brand name charger for 60€ and get up to 6 hours of charge on maximum brightness.

You also have the choice of 5v version which costs the same and can run of power bank for phones if you don't want 18650 batteries.

>>1011023
it's not your size, I'm 1.74 with short legs and ride a size 50. I would say a guy around your height with average proportions should be riding a 52, maybe a 54 if you have really long legs

>>1011286
Link a better option.

Can anyone suggest some good road slick brands for my >rigid 90's MTB?

>>1011282
I'm pretty flexible, have my current bike set up in a fairly aggressive postion. I didn't measure to my sitbones, just went by my pants length (30.5in/77.5cm)

What's a good way to measure from seat to sitbones? Won't it change once I level out my pelvis in the saddle?

Went for a test ride. Everything stayed in place and the beam was bright, wide and even. 5/5 for me.
t. >>1011159

>want to upgrade suntour xcr fork for something mid range
>looking at rockshox recon air series
>none of them have 29er + axle thru options
>look at epixon forks and the same deal here only 9mm bullshit

how the fuck did my bike came with shit low end fork that has axle thru yet no other mid range fork have them? also looking for air fork under 300€ in yuroland that's not shit.

Why can't I find SRAM groupsets online for purchase / delivery in australia? Is SRAM doing some dodgy stuff behind the scenes to restrict supply?

Places that sell in australia don't list them, and overseas sites tell me they won't ship to Australia for those parts.

What's going on?

>>1011303
26" wheels?

>>1011364
>Is SRAM doing some dodgy stuff behind the scenes to restrict supply?

It's not like SRAM is owned by shimano or something so they nothing to gain from dodgy deals. It is weird though I noticed SRAM weren't coming on wiggle.

>>1011367
I was thinking something like they would force australians to buy SRAM groupsets from local retailers, paying 300% what they could get it for online

>>1011289
would you that based on saddle height alone? I've ridden the bike and while it is not optimal, frame size (since I have a 50 cm bike that feels a tad more apt for me) it is nothing that actively stops me from riding it

I was more wondering if it's a set in stone rule, the whole saddle height/frame size thing

anyway, would a range from 49 cm - 52 cm be better? (I know that this depends on how the frames are measured, etc)

ps. I have a longish torso and shortish femurs

>>1011340
you are suppose to measure your full inseam...... i have a 34 inseam but wear a 32 pants. why would you think its your pants? thats just stupid

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVu5Zrktm40 4:10

>>1011394
SRAM hardly sees a cent of that. If anything, Shimano could be pulling an Intel and tying """rebates""" to purchase quotas, that just magically happens to be near or at the distributors total sales. Sell SRAM as well? Well you'll be paying the imaginary list price (that no one else pays even close to) for the Shimano parts, putting you out of business.

>>1011303
>Can anyone suggest some good road slick brands for my >rigid 90's MTB?

Schwalbe marathon supremes are the best option if you have $$$

Schwalbe Kojak if you have $$

Panaracer Paselas if you have $

>>1011419
But merlincycles will happily ship to me campag or shimano but puts a note when I try to buy SRAM that they can't ship it to australia.

So for that seller at least, they haven't been jewed out of selling SRAM completely, just shipping it to aus is the issue

Are Lapierre bikes any good?

>>1011615
Yes.

>>1011615
my brother has one and it looks tour de france as fuck

he gives it lots of riding too and never heard him complain about it so i guess it's a good bike, he's got the audacio 450 tiagra

>>1011668
>>1011679
Hmm okay.

I asked this question earlier >>1011046

Both bikes are new, but I want to go for the Specialized cause it's newer but I'm not sure :S

>>1011749
prices? if same price E5, it's got Sora, better than claris in the audacio

there is nothing wrong with claris though so it all comes down to personal preference

test ride

>>1011257
it would seem like if the gap between the gears is the same distance on both cassettes, then you should be able to shorten the throw of the derailleur with the one of the limit screws (high?) and get successful indexing.

even if I'm wrong, or your specs don't line up, or you've got equipment from different makers; if your shifter supports friction shifting, then you can eliminate any indexing compatibility issues and then all you have to worry about is the throw of the derailleur.

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M520 with Giro Republic LX reflective (mtb)

or

Bont Vaypor with R540 (rd)

mostly ride road, occasional fun gravel

>>1011774
Have you tried either of them on?

>>1011784
nope.

mtb is cool since i can walk but the bont look better but i cant walk, heard road shoes are better for long distances as well so idk

I want a cheap fat bike for the Canadian winter. Do I buy a bikes direct bike and pick it up in the US or do I buy a department store bike like the Ironhorse Manto on Costco website?

$500 is my limit since I already spent like 2.5k on bike shit.

>>1011756
Sadly I can't test ride them. I think I'm gonna go with the E5 since newer/better parts for the most part, even though the 2017 redesign is bland as fuck.

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I've managed to cut/tear/damage both valve stems on my bike in the past two weeks, possibly from running over curbs, tree roots and riding/jumping down stairs. They are puncture resistant 26x1.9-2.125 tubes with thicker rubber, in 26x2.0 bontrager h5 hard case lite tires on steel rims.

How can I reinforce a rubber schrader valve stem and what other ways can I prevent this form happening? It essentially trashes the tube with barely any damage.

>>1011985
Wait what part exactly did you cut/tear/damage

Sheng shin tires metropolitan palmbay


They look kawaii desu sexy 4u

>>1011985
I imagine the problem is happening because with that steel rim and a stiff tire, the tire slips relative to the wheel under heavy braking or acceleration. The potential solution I would try first is adding talcum powder to the inside surface of the tire - this will reduce the friction between the tire and tube, making it less likely that rotational forces will tear off your valve stem. If you still have problems after that, try running different tires.

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>>1011997
The stem itself, no damage to the tube inside. This one happened today and it's still on the bike now.

>>1012001
I'll try the talcum powder, it looked like both stems were angled when they were damaged.

Both the tubes and the tires are about two years old and were on my old bike until I bent the fork backwards hitting a curb that was too high while going too fast.

>>1012002
I pulled it out for a better view, it wasn't that badly angled when I noticed it was flat.

>>1012002

do you store your bike outside? The sun and exposure can do damage to rubber over time. I don't think running over shit could ever damage the (fairly well protected) valve stem, maybe rarely.

If it's happening with new tubes, I'd look to see if you had sharp edges in the valve hole of the rim. Then you can file them down or wrap with elec. tape or whatever. Installing the valve stem straight is a good start.

>>1012006
The current bike is stored inside now but the old one stayed outside, for about a year until I got the current one and changed the tubes and tires onto it.

I've got one new tube installed and it's held up for two weeks, though the stem has tilted since then. I'm getting a new tire for the front and I'll swap the current front tire to the rear. I'll wrap the stems and put talc in the tires.

>>1012006
Tire rubber ages even if you store it in a nice place, although obviously the sun and elements accelerate the aging. The most you can really get out of a tire is 5 years, and with bike tires, it's very possible that whatever you buy is already a year or two old. It sucks that even though materials tech has advanced like crazy over the last few decades, we're still stuck with goddamn rubber for tires.

My jockey wheels are getting really noisy and when I feel them they cause quite a lot of vibration

Also in my lowest gear the vibration is awful and the bike just feels terrible. This is just my bomb down hills gear but it's still really worrying especially at 50-60 kmh

All signs point to derailleur hanger being bent/out of position right? It doesn't look misaligned. Maybe a tiny bit

>offer my old Positron stem shifter parts (clamp and levers) on craigslist for 3 bucks
>3 different requests within 24 hours
Is it just the price or do people honestly still buy this shit?

>>1012090
You may just need new jockey wheels...

I have been looking on pinkbike and craigslist, am I missing any other places for used bikes?

Does anyone have any opinions on Norco bikes? I have been looking at the Norco sight and the Transition Scout

>>1012220
Ebay is good for parts and higher quality bikes.

>>1012220

mtbr.com classifieds

Twin Cities bros, which bike shop do you use? Looking for one close to Saint Paul. Don't really need anything for performance just for a hybrid and old ten speed. I used a local non-profit shop once but am a little unsure if the quality of repair is good enough.

To everybody: how much should it cost to get one back wheel trued and another redished?

>>1012251
$20-30 per wheel would be a typical rate.

I need to replace the middle ring in my crankset, is it possible to replace just that?

Do I have to have the same generation of parts?

If I'm disassembling that section (either a single gear or the whole crank) is there anything else I should do while I'm down there?

>>1012528
Yes

No, just the same BCD (distance between bolts)

Clean it up

>>1012528
Can you take a picture? if it's a quality triple crankset you can replace just that ring, but some cheap bikes come with cranksets where all the rings are bolted together permanently.

What do about loose dogs? My usual route when leaving my house to get on the road is was filled with little dogs that just liked to bark and I would play with them occasionally but now big dogs have wandered down here and they don't like to play. Is that pepper spray that mail-carriers use any good? Or should I just find an alternate route?

>>1012530
I don't have a picture at the moment, but it's Shimano Deore Lx, I believe they're bolted on.

Why aren't there shaft driven bicycles with stacked planetary gear sets for absurd gear ratios?

>>1012552
Because shaft drives are less efficient at transferring power than chains, are heavier, and impose extra constraints on frame designs.

>>1012538
>Shimano Deore Lx
oh yeah, that's bolted on for sure. just figure out what the BCD on your crank is and find the number stamped into the ring that says the number of teeth (or just count them) and place your order. you can get a different number of teeth if you want to fine-tune your set-up, but the BCD has to be the same.

>>1012552
>>1012558
why would you want absurd gear ratios anyway

>>1012600
Who wouldn't want to have a good cadence while going 90 mph?

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Okay, here's a puzzler:

I have a freewheel (a modern Sunrace unit) that works fine but sometimes (not all the time) makes a knocking sound during pedaling - it will start knocking after I've been riding in one gear for a few minutes and goes away if I backpedal for a few seconds. Shifting will generally, but not always, make the sound clear up temporarily. The pawls are engaging just fine, I can rule out both the hub and the chain as the source of the problem (both in good shape, and the same issue occurred when I had this freewheel on an entirely different bike), and none of the cogs are loose on the freewheel body. The only clue I can offer is that the knocking sound (and it produces a very small jolt that can be felt) varies according to the speed of the rear wheel.

Any guesses?

>>1012037
I have a set of +10 year old schwalbe delta cruiser tires in mint condition though.

You can literally cruise the delta's with them.

>>1012623
friction shitters

What's the best bang for your buck for bib shorts? A bunch of mine are off eBay... is it worth spending more?

/biz/nessman here. Commuting by bike everyday and want to upgrade. Winter is around the corner and in my country it gets pretty cold and we have a lot of snow.
How are the bicycle markets behaving? Is it best to buy one in winter when no one is looking for bikes or are there no real seasonal fluctuations?
Thank you in advance

I'm replacing my spoke nipples because they're too worn to adjust any more. Should I replace my spokes at the same time, even if there's nothing overtly wrong with them? It's an old wheel, it was old when I got it.

How is SRAM mtb/road compatability?

Will Apex brifters and front derailleur work with an x7 crankset (both 2x of course)
I need to replace my crankset but I'm looking to lower my gearing for touring so that I have 2x10 x7/x9 42/28t with 11-36 cassette. Right now I have apex 46/34T

>>1012764
cx baiku
caadx possibly

>>1012803
Sure

What pants do you guys wear for cruising/commuting? Seems like regular jeans and shorts wear a hole where it contacts the saddle. I have 4 pairs of jeans with holes now.

Thinking about military fatigues, will it be more hard wearing?

>>1013009
I haven't encountered a problem with wearing holes in my pants and shorts, but I only go a few miles a day and have a smooth vinyl saddle.

Maybe it's your bike saddle causing wear?

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Ok I have a question that I've been wondering about for a while.

At what point is it time to upgrade to a nicer bike?

I've been riding a great Giant aluminum frame w a carbon fork for the last few years, and I'm thinking about entering a crit in the next year or two. Will a full carbon frame be absolutely crucial even at cat 5?

>>1013036
>riding a crit on garbon

>>1012852

sram road/mtb is 100% compatible with each other due to their 1:1 ratio. of course you'll have to mess with it a little more to get 10 speed to work with 9 speed and so on. but 10 speed road and 10 speed mtb is good to go. it's one of the best things about sram.

>>1013009

avoid cotton, go for man made material. like hiking pants or find some cheap mtb shorts.

>>1013036

going to carbon is not critical in cat 5. you want a disposable frame. the CAAD series (or other high end aluminum) is god tier for low level crit racing. I guess you could use cheap chinese carbon frames if you trusted them.

upgrade your components/wheels. or better yet, work on aero gains. get more flexible so you can drop that stem, pick up an aero jersey, some shoe covers, etc. could also research tires with low rolling resistance.

and stay away from the back of the pack.

Goddamn it.
Went for a longer ride today. Only 50km and I've chaffed my arsecheeks to hell. Otherwise I'm quite comfortable and did wear proper bike shorts.

What do? Hurts to walk- I want to cry.

>>1013048
Just to clarify on what this anon said- you are quite likely to crash in a crit (especially a CAT5) and garbon is definitely more likely to be ruined in a crash- not to say you shouldn't get a carbon frame, but keep your Giant for crits.

question from someone who has no idea, how do i adjust my hoods? I can't reach my brakes that well

>>1013089
lidocaine lotion

>>1013036
Depends on if you can afford it. There will be people on aluminum bikes all the way to cat 1. Consider a race day wheelset, possibly after you get promoted to cat 4.

>>1013050
>>1013048
Never race something in a crit you can't afford to crash. This especially applies to cat 5.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcC5Kxb5ZSU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZinjRFXy4k

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12qnpmbF-GQ

>>1013089
They have ass lubricant. Have you tried it?

>>1012852
Should be no problem.

>>1013089
Are your hips rocking from side to side when you pedal? Maybe your saddle is too high, that can cause chafing

are there non shifter roadbike breakleavers for hydro discs ?

I can get a rockshox reverb dropper seatpost for pretty cheap but my stock seatpost has a diameter of 30.9 mm and the reverb has 31.6. Would it be possible to slim down my seat tube on the inside to make it fit? My bike is aluminium and the seat tube walls are about 3 mm thick. How much would the 0.35 mm make a difference.

So, getting a new frame in and I wanted to throw some wheels I already have built up on it but the rear axel spacing needs to be taken down from 120 to 110, is it best I do it by myself or take it to LBS

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>>1013123
The position of the hoods on your bars can be adjusted by first loosening the bolt that's recessed inside the lever body (accessible either behind the lever blade, or it's built into the lever body and is hidden under the rubber hood). Some, but not all, levers also have a reach adjustment screw (built into the lever body, points towards the rider) that can be used to change the default distance between the lever blade and the bars. Show/tell us what levers you have if you want more details.

>>1013156
Yes, you need a shim, they're pretty common. If you install the post without a shim you'll damage the seattube.

>>1013163
BMX hub in an old road frame? Make sure the axle is going to fit in the dropouts before you go any further with this project.

Most LBS won't be willing to 'cold set' a frame, they'll probably tell you to take it to a local frame builder if there are any. It's not very hard to do your own cold setting, but with that much of a change you'll also need to DIY dropout alignment gauges.

>>1013138
TRP Hylex. Also, learn to google you lazy fuck.

>>1013183

should have added other than those.
those were the only ones I found and I couldn't find them not in a bundel with the brakes.

thanks anyway

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Thinking of getting some clipless SPD pedals. Is there any reason I shouldn't get this one? Is this compatible with recessed cleats ?

>>1013195
Get the ones with a platform and a SPD interface on both sides like the Click'R T400. Having to flip the pedal the right way round each time will drive you nuts. The SPD clip pops up so you can use any SPD shoe with it, or it'll sink into the pedal body if you're wearing flats.

do retro (say pre 2000) steel roadbikes with 1 1/8 steerer exist ?

>>1013201
this x 100
especially if you live in area with lots of lights

I used to have a road bike with drops and I liked having drops. After that got stolen, I've been commuting on a 90s mountain meme and going on some longer rides on it, and I love the bike, except flat bars kinda suck for any rides longer than 2 hours or so.

Would getting bar ends be worth it for longer rides? My hands do eventually get tired of being in the same place.

>>1013201
>Click'R T400
These look good, except the platform part of the pedal doesn't look very big or grippy

>>1013217
There's always a tradeoff with these hybrid type pedals. I spent ages with a friend who was adamant that he wanted a flat+clipless pedal looking at pretty much everything on the market. The double sided click'rs are the best design with the least compromises imo.

I'd personally recommend just jumping in and getting purely clipless pedals like the m520, which is what I did. I understand it's not for everyone though.

>>1013223

what I never understood is , do you just ride them with normal shoes then or do you ride your bike only for sport ?

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So my bike has stem shifters and lately I've been having some problems with gear changes. Whenever I try to run in my big ring, it keeps trying to switch to the small ring,
not all the way but enough to make that noise as you're pedalling, like the chain is hitting the front derailleur or whatever.

How do I fix this?

>>1013183
old track bike

>>1013242
Loosen your outer limit screw.

>>1013241
not the same guy, but I have normal looking sandals (i haven't worn real shoes in 8 years) with recessed spd cleats and soles that aren't too rigid to walk comfortably in

>>1013242
what: >>1013255 said, and also check that your shift cable is moving smoothly

>>1013241
I have some touring shoes with SPD cleats which are fine to walk about in. I use the bike for long weekend rides and sometimes commuting where I change shoes at work. I have another cheaper bike with flats that I ride around town when I don't want to change shoes.

But really, clipless pedals are only really useful for sport/long distance riding etc. For a do-it-all type bike you don't really need more than flat pedals. These hybrid type ones are always going to be a bit of a compromise in some regard.

How does /n/ store their bikes? I have two now, with a third coming soon, and I'm a bit sick of having to find space to lean them on things in the garage. I'm going to clear it out a bit and make some more room but I want to stop leaning them.

>>1013255
>>1013257
Got it, thanks!

>>1013281
I use a two level rack from performance and the third sits on the ground. It's not super elegant but it works.

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>>1013183
His seatpost is too large, not small.

>>1013156
That sort of difference won't cause any harm, if you can find a way to do it. Ideally you'd want a reamer but that's going to cost a fair bit of money. I'd look into a sanding flap wheel you can stick in a drill that you can also put on an extension so it'll reach far enough down into the seat tube. You could also DIY something similar with a long rod and taping some sandpaper to it.

How much of a difference will I feel between going from a 32t ring to a 34t ring?

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>>1013301
fuck all. rear cog changes are more noticable.

>>1013303
Cool, will I have to adjust my limiters at all?

>>1013301
It depends on your overall gearing, the difference will be greater at higher gears (i.e with 11t in the back it's 1.3mph faster at the same cadence, with 18t it's only 0.8mph faster).

Overall it's a very small difference and not the sort of change you'd make to extend your range (for a lower low gear or a higher high gear). The reasons you would make such a small change are weight, clearance, or to shift the entire range one way or the other. For example say you did 16mph on flat ground and that ended up being 80rpm in whatever gear ratio and shifting down a gear resulted in too high an rpm, changing the chainring by just a couple teeth may put that at a more preferred 90rpm. If none of those reasons apply to you then don't bother.

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My frame has holes for internal cabling. However, I'm having trouble getting my shifter cables through the holes to the front derailleur. I've tried using neodymium magnets to get the cable to the hole and using a thin straw to try to connect the entrance and exit hole as well. Is there anything else I can try that might work?

I'm pointing to the exit hole in the picture and the wire on the right is going into the entrance hole.

>>1013306
>Attach a piece of string or wool to one end of an inner cable
>insert it into frame
>use a vacuum cleaner to suck the string through the exit point
>pull the cable through
>stick an outer cable over the inner, using the inner to guide the outer cable through the frame

Literally just did this a few days ago. Seems to be the easiest way.

>>1013306
Some suggestions (I've never worked with internal cables so no idea if this actually helps)
-Cables usually prefer to curve a particular way, spinning the cable will change that direction
-Maybe a strong enough magnet on a second cable will magnetise it and you can put that through the exit hole and try and get it to grab the end of the other cable to guide it through

>>1008403
imo, best experience is getting the "2000 Lumen" cree light that you can find on amazon or ebay for about 8 bucks. Then getting some deal on a USB charging namebrand battery pack.
modular, cheap to replace, way too many lumens to worry about, they might fail on you or get stolen, but you can buy 5 of them for the price of a lezyne light and be non the worse.

>>1008518
pretty homo if you ask me.

>>1013281
on the wall, from a hook, or in my bed.

>>1013306
ya fucked up m80.
next time tape the old cable to the new cable.
but yeah, you're doing the best you can, just do your due dilligence.

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>>1013281
I have one hanging from my shed ceiling by rubber coated hooks, one under the stem and another under the saddle. My shed is really narrow, just about the width of two bikes so it's pretty awkward to get them in and out, I have three now but need to slim down to two.

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>>1013316
This is the best pic I can get of them all together. Having one up and one down is a lot easier than having two on the floor.

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At what point does one replace tires? I was replacing a tube following a flat on the road yesterday and noticed that my tires are starting to look pretty worn with holes and cuts all around them. Do you measure your tire's lifespan in miles, like you would running shoes?

>>1013334
If you're noticing a performance drop then definitely replace them. Especially if you're sliding more than you should or are having trouble gripping the road as much. You might want to replace them if they're worn to the point where you can't really notice any tread anymore.
>>1013309
>>1013311
Thanks for the help. The vacuum and thread didn't work as well for me but I was able to get it with magnets after trying some more.

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my buddy just got this bike anyone know the frame
>inb4 fixie

>>1013357
Looks like a black frame.

>>1013361
thanks famalam

>>1013334
I rode my tires until the thread started showing
One day I got a flat, and tried fixing it. The tire had so much give that it exploded when I pumped it. Twice. Because I didn't want to believe it reached the end of it's life.

>>1013309

Genius.

How much does a Dura-Ace 7800 groupset weigh?

Is it possible to adjust my brakes so that i can reach them better from the hoods?
Mine are a bit uncomfortable to use from the hoods but are perfect on the drops

>>1013241
>implying you're not allowed to wear spd shoes if you're not out """sporting"""
If you're out cycling to the store you wear cycling shoes. If you walk to the store you wear walking shoes. If you drive to the store you wear soccer-mom pitbull lipstick. Simple enough, eh?

>>1013535
I think there's a screw under the top part of the hood (if you peel it back) that can adjust the angle of the levers.

How do I avoid ass sweat when its hot outside?
My seat is 90% duct tape so that might not be helping any

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>>1013209
yes. I've seen some hate for them here but I liked riding with them.

I used to have pic related when I had an MTB that I commuted with and I loved them, but I never see them mentioned here. dunno if that means /bike/ hates them or they aren't made anymore or what.

>>1013334
well, that's a fairly fucked-up hole. however, that's just something you ran over, the tire as a whole doesn't look worn at all, really. I've ridden on worse holes, 2bh. you can get what's called a "boot" to stick inside there to protect the tube and keep it from bubbling out of the hole; you can rig one out of rubber and gorilla tape, big tire patches, or what have you.

I'd replace those tires when that line between the smooth middle and the treadmarks to either side becomes worn and blurry. If you notice a color change or see threads, it's definitely spent.

>>1013608
Thanks, those look really cool. I'll try to find something like that or use regular barends if I can't

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What cleats do y'all niggas use?

I've used both SPDs and SPD-SLs on my dad's bikes

Ergo I'm probably going to buy pic related + some SPD-SL cleats and pedals

>>1013619

Ah, that would have been good to know. I ended up picking up tire liners today after reading this thread:
>>1008977

>>1013772
it's cool, the liners will work in a similar way against the hole to keep the tube from ballooning out and will protect the whole rest of the tire from punctures.

ayy

is it normal for the rear dropouts on your bike to flex inwards when tightening it to a trainer?