MTB to slick

Should make you go a little faster. Slicks have better grip on asphalt too. But you might get more flats. Knobs on mtb tires help keep the casing above small sharp stuff.

>>1003762
Damn i dont wanna get flats.
Is the weight saving effect of the new tires important? I've seen somewhere that weight saving on your tires is more important than on your frame.

>>1003766
So get slicks with good flat protection. There are a lot out there, often labeled as commuter or touring tires. I'm currently using Schwalbe Marathons and having good success with them.

>>1003766
Schwalbe mararthons have a bunch of extra rubber on the inside for flats. Other tires have puncture resistant belts.

>>1003759
definitly, knobbies are garbage on the roads. Also consider a narrower tire. since slicks actually have a useful contact patch you can get away with thinner tires and still be comfy, safe and fast.

use 1.5 slicks. kenda makes one thats chep and fucking great, forgot the name. maxxis detonator is overpriced as shot.

hardtail mtb with slicks are fucking awesome on city, you go fast as shit and fast. you guys wont regret it. they dont look as cool, but they rule

Schwalbe Kojak

>>1003766
>>1003759

The absolute best option is a 26x2.0 Schwalbe Marathon Supreme. If your rims are wide enough for them, you'll got real fast

>>1003775

The Marathons are way heavier than the Marathon Supremes. But cheaper. Supremes have nearly as good puncture protection but weigh half as much and roll like high TPI road tires

>>1003778

Kojak is a great choice, but it's a poor man's supreme

Once in a while you can find supremes on sale for $25, they're usually $50 each

Here are some for cheap

jejamescycles has them for 28 now

I got mine on bike-discount.de for ~$25

>>1003779
>Supremes have nearly as good puncture protection
So, not as good puncture protection?

Anyway, I'd say, if OP wanted to concern himself with marginal gains, he'd get a road bike instead of fredding up a fucking MTB.

>>1003759
go for Soma New Xpress/Panaracer Pasela

>>1003759
You will feel a great difference, OP. Do it.As other anons said, it is worth getting narrower profile too.

You can also disregard other anons telling you to get expensive schwalbes. Get lower end mainstream brand tires and roll. If you DO get more flats than you are willing to put up with, try schwalbes or other tires that are oriented on flat protection.

Best case scenario: you save some money with regular cheapos
Worst case scenario: you will end up on better tires anyway.

I have a related question.

Tyres for road bikes are quite narrow, while tyres for mountain bikes are quite wide. What effect does the rim width have? As in, I have some 23mm rims, how narrow can my tyres be?

I'm going to be commuting by bike soon. I currently have a mountain bike, but would like to get a road bike eventually. I'd like to get some slicks that I can use on both; is this a worthwhile idea?

I've got some 2.5" maxxis grifters on my mtb. nice tyres. The new surly ET tyres look pretty cash too.

>>1003802

What I'm trying to say is supremes have very very very good puncture protection. The only tires with better protection are the standard marathon tires, and those are heavy as balls

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>>1003824
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

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>crtl+f Schwalbe
>six results

The Nashbar Streetwise tire is $18, less if you get it on sale

26x1.5" and it's 60 tpi

I can confirm it rolls very fast for a cheap tire, but I believe you will get occasional flats. Might be worth considering if you just want to TRY slicks for a while

Panaracers will be just as fast and probably less flats

The Marathons mentioned above are awesome but if you don't have rims that can handle 2.0 slicks at a low pressure, you don't want them. Rim should be approaching 20mm internal width for low-pressure riding. If not, you'll get tire-flop, which sucks

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>>1003889

Here's the streetwise

>>1003824
>Tyres for road bikes are quite narrow, while tyres for mountain bikes are quite wide. What effect does the rim width have? As in, I have some 23mm rims, how narrow can my tyres be?

"The chart included here shows the range of tire widths that can be used for a given rim width. The rim width measurement is the inside width of the rim (i.e., the width of the bead seat in the rim). This is a fairly conservative range; you can probably get away with using a tire that is narrower or wider than the range indicated. If you use a tire that is too narrow for the rim, you're more likely to get pinch flats and risk damaging the rim if you hit pot holes or other road hazards. If you use a tire that is too wide for the rim, you risk damaging the rim and tire, and are also likely to have handling problems."

Handling problems means tire flop, where the tire folds over the side of the rim on turns.

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Any reccomendation on hybrid tires ?

I ride mostly asphalt and gravel, but occasionaly I got through the woods with a lot of bog rocks and slippery mud. I'd say 50% asphalt, 40% gravel and 10% rocky muddy forest.

I currently have the Smart Sam tires just because they were the only tires availible in the bike store, because the shit that came with my MTB broke dute to sharp stones. But I think they are a bit too heavy and grippy for tarmac.

>>1003762
>But you might get more flats
maybe if you run something like gatorskins or gp4000

This has raised a question I've been thinking about. Say I have a 90's rigid mtb frame. What would it be like if I threw some drop bars and the thinnest slicks I could fit on it?
Would it ride like a heavy road bike? Or would it feel cramped and uncomfortable?

>>1003942

Two ideas.. Race Kings, happy medium pros. Both are cx tires in 26. Fast with kinda light tread

>>1003955
Mountain bikes ride fine with drop bars - but getting a good fit with drops on a mtb can be challenging because you typically need an exceptionally long/tall stem.

>>1003970

I'd disagree on the long part. Even the old rigid MTBs had long top tubes compared to roadie

Drop bars on rigid MTB with slicks is the best. Spending $1000 on an adventure bike is silly when this option exists

>>1003958

The more i think about this, neither is good for mud

I don't think there is a tire that can do mud and road well

Bruce Gordon rock and road has that in the title but they might only be 29er

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>>1003958
>>1004004
I don't know, I'm looking at the schwalbe marathon supreme and people write that they can roll around on them in the forest. Pic related is probably the worst thing I'll be riding

>>1003942

Surly knard.

>>1004021

Any tyre for that, just watch out for those slick roots and pine needles.

Riding a MTB on the road is the greatest thing. I was in denial and rode a crosscheck for years which was a decent and reliable commuter, light tourer and dirt trail bike. But a MTB can do all that so much better with more useful gearing for long rides, better brakes with the grip to suit, more comfy upright fit, puffier tyres and more stable in all conditions.

2x with granny is a great range you spin out below 40km, so it promotes saving your energy for the long haul.

I really don't like Schwalbe Marathons anymore. They're too heavy, and the sidewalls are really stiff. Yeah, they don't get flats, but the ride is pretty harsh. I love my Compass Rat Trap Pass and Bon Jon Pass tires.

>>1003942
You aren't going to find anything that works well in slippery mud and isn't slow as shit on asphalt. Sorry. Doesn't exist.

>>1004004
BG R&R is pretty good tire.

They shred on dirt, from loose and dusty all the way to damp and sticky. They also are great on gravel. Basically, best fire road tire ever.

That said, they're not great on mud - the tread doesn't shed mud at all and they get clogged fast. They're also not good on sandy surfaces, since they're only ~1.7" wide. And they're mediocre at best on pavement - VERY buzzy, and they wear super fast on paved roads.

They only come in 700C and 650B, no 26" version.

>>1003970
>>1003999
The problem with drop bars on MTBs isn't the length of the top tube, it's the length of the head tube. To get the bars in the right location, you usually need a pretty tall stem. But if you can get the fit right, a drop bar MTB fattie slick tire urban assault bike is a hell of a fun time.

>>1004268
>You aren't going to find anything that works well in slippery mud and isn't slow as shit on asphalt. Sorry. Doesn't exist.
How about something that is good on tarmac but also okayish in the woods?
Still leaning to the schwalbe marathon supremes. I guess the grip will be shit on rooty forest paths, but whatever.

>>1004268
Just saying...
>drop bar MTB fattie slick tire urban assault bike...
is a hell of a fun time. :P

>>1004438
>How about something that is good on tarmac but also okayish in the woods?
They're called semislinks and built for exactly that; speed on hard surfaces but enough big blocks towards the sides that you can manage when the tyre sinks down in the mud pit. Sammy Slick, Thunder Burt, SpeedKing, RaceKing, and many others are of this type.

The new surly ET tyres look pretty good, like a puffier version of the mondial with better dirt tread.

>>1003877

+1 for the Beef Supremes

>running 700c x 35 on 29er rims
>1.29 tire/rim ratio
>2k miles of mixed city streets/pot holes/broken glass/hepititis heroin needles/gravel/dirt/hardpack/lose over hard
>0 flats

desu they still look new. They are workable on everything except sand and mud, but I think if I had 2.0 tires that might change. Best tire purchase I've made. Friend of mine did the TAT from outer banks to Seattle and said his still hand a lot of life left in them. Didn't believe him until I got a pair myself.

>>1004622

I've got the same size on A719 rims and XT hubs. I love them

I managed to get a 32c on the front wheel on my road bike, but couldn't fit in the back. That was a bummer