What is the best way to get into Gunpla?

Buy a kit of a suit you really like. If you don't like building gunpla, stop, but at least you have a kit of your favorite unit.

But if you do like it, then buy more.

As for tools:

-Gundam marker (generally sold online where you can purchase gunpla. Cheap so get multiple. Some kits do better with grey, some with brown, some with black). These are for panel lines on the kit.
-Wire snips. Hardware stores will have these. They're better for cutting the parts out of the runners without deforming the plastic.
-Exacto knife. To grind down the remains of the nubs from the cut runners.

>>15554032
Buy one, build it. Ta-dah, you're a Gunpla Meister.

>>15554032

My best advice to you is not to be overly ambitious to do crazy things. Master your basics first.

>>15554032
Production order.

>>15554032
Avoid the felcher gundam line, ANN leads its propaganda.

Where can i get a first/third party MG 1/100 kit for roughy $20 need a starter kit that i wont feel guilty for fucking up

>>15554256
Buy a cheap high grade, ibo kits are ~10 dollars and pretty good.

>>15554268
Can i get a MG kit for that price? I want one with a inner frame, sorry for the dumb questions, want to get into this and spend some decent money but dont want to start randomly throwing paint on a model that cost me $60+

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>>15554280
Ibo high grades have inner frames

>>15554032
Watch one of the anime series. Pick a robot you like, find a model kit version, buy it, build it. Repeat.

Or read the guide on the gunpla general.

>>15554280

The cheapest MGs tend to run in the low $30 range. Maybe some for less. For that much you could get two or three HGs.

>>15554295
Even then, a lot of the cheaper kits are quite old and a modern high grade is usually better

>>15554284
Thanks!
Are these 1/100 scale?

>>15554298
>Are these 1/100 scale?

You just used the term MG and his post contains the words "High grade" so think for a second there

>>15554301

There used to be High Grade 1/100s but they're mostly gone now.

Try the /toy/ and /m/ gunpla threads. They're full of scrubs who know the basics off by heart

>>15554297
>a lot of the cheaper kits are quite old
Depend, price is mostly influenced by the amount of the plastic they used, many modern MG like some Wing GOL lines are around that price.

>>15554032
1/144 barbatos lupus is an easy build or try a zaku

>>15554032
literally be underaged with a shit sense of design

>>15554872
>buying 1/44

>>15554301
You must be new to gunpla. The kit that was just posted is neither HG nor MG, but it is 1/100 scale

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10350056

>>15555533
Yes, that's usually what you do concerning 1/144

>>15555533
Mega size are 1/48 scale, but generally require panel etching and other customizing to look presentable.

>>15555602
>>15555605
atleast we know you're retarded and not just pretending

>>15555532
Why are you here?

>>15555617
>>15555533
?

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>>15554280
Not all MGs require paint. Hyaku 2.0 is a an example and one of my favorite kits.
>>15554284
I picked up a HGIBO not too long ago and it felt like a low quality third party kit.
>>15554256
You aren't going to get a MG for $20. There are 1/100 NON-grades from the IBO series that are $20-$30. They are better than HGs, but not as good as MGs. If you are adamant on a 1/100 as your first kit maybe look into that, possibly a Graze or Barbatos.

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>>15556255
>Not all MGs require paint. Hyaku 2.0 is a an example and one of my favorite kits.

You do need a gold marker for all the gold that chips off while dealing with those nubs.

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>>15555596
Actually the kit that was posted is in fact the 1/144 hg graze. The 1/100 graze frame looks more detailed. The obvious giveaway is the waist section and lower legs.

>>15556255
>I picked up a HGIBO not too long ago and it felt like a low quality third party kit.

What kit? My experiance with the line has been stellar so far. The only one I didn't like building was the reginlaze because shit pops off of that kit way too easily.

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>>15556280
>You do need a gold marker for all the gold that chips off while dealing with those nubs
Maybe you'll eventually want one just to make it absolutely perfect, but as long as you don't fuck up terribly there shouldn't be any super visible nubs since 90% of the painted parts are undercut.

>>15556292
Astaroth. It was surprisingly bad. Lots of loose parts and some of the runners seemed like really low quality plastic for some odd reason. Not the end of the world, but it was enough to keep me from buying HGIBO again, at least for awhile.

>>15554032
i jumped in with the master grade grandady gundam 3.0 which is a tricky build but i dont regret getting it first.
people will say go for a high grade to start with but i had no issues with a more complex master grade my first time round and it had a good response from the gunpla general. (i did fuck up the core fighter though)

if you want something simple to start with my favorite high gradea are:
-HGUC gouf custom
-HGUC zaku II F2
-HGUC GM custom
all were very fun to build yet simple and look great with a touch of panel lining.
i have hered alot of good things about the revive line too, but i havent built any yet.

also to answer some of you other questions.
high grades are rhe smaller 1/144 scale models. they used to make 1/100s but not anymore, they look pretty bad by todays standards.
real grades are also 1/144, but have more detail, parts and gimicks like mg kits.
the master grades are 1/100, and some of the no grade IBO kits are 1/100 too.

all you'll really need are some model clippers, a modeling knife and a gundam marker, maybe some glue if you fuck something up.
a nice flat top coat can make a rough kit look nice too but its not necessary.

>>15554101
underrated

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>>15554032
I recommend the Tieren 1/100
Its a simple building model , Its very big , and very cheap
You can paint it like a tank if you wish .

>>15556193
This isnt /toy/