I've been looking at the colt detective special for possibly

NO factory support, and very few gunsmiths capable of actually fixing a problem exist.

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>>35060454
I bought a 68' virtually unfired. Sold it a while later.

>>35060635
What he said. Don't buy an old Detective Special. If anything buy the new Colt Python 2. Yes it has sharp edges all over it and the trigger stacks a bit, but it has 6 shots and Colt can actually work on it if you need to send it back for timing issues or anything. I'm carrying a S&W 637, personally.

Everyone who knew how to work on old Colts is now dead or not employed by Colt anymore. Not good for a carry gun. The one I had was in excellent condition, but they are finicky. After a few boxes of ammo I began having timing issues.

I used to have a link that showed how to identify correct Colt timing. There are a lot of details to look for, it is not so simple. I'll look around for it..


.t gunshop fag

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>>35060454
>>35060897
Here we go found it.. Quick mention, mine had perfect timing but the hammer started becoming wibbly and smacking on and AROUND the primer especially when fired rapidly. Again, an old Colt like these are not good for carry IMO.

How to check the critical timing of the old Colt double action revolvers.

This covers models like the Official Police, original Trooper, 3-5-7, Officer's Models, Python, Detective Special, Police Positive and Police Positive Special, Diamondback, Cobra, etc.

BOLT RETRACTION AND "SNAP BACK".
Open the cylinder and look at the small "lug" in the bottom of the cylinder window. This is the cylinder locking bolt.
Cock the hammer, and watch as the bolt retracts into the frame and pops back out.
The bolt MUST begin to retract THE INSTANT the hammer begins to move.
There MUST be NO (ZERO) hammer movement possible before the bolt starts to retract.
The bolt should retract smoothly with no hesitation until it's fully retracted, then it must pop back out with a clean "snap".
There should be no hesitation, and no amount of "creeping" back out.

CYLINDER UNLOCKING.
Close the cylinder.
Use your left thumb or fore finger to again cock the hammer, closely watching the cylinder bolt as you SLOWLY cock the hammer.
As the hammer comes back, the bolt will retract away from the cylinder.
The bolt must retract far enough to unlock the cylinder BEFORE the cylinder begins to rotate.
If the bolt is still slightly engaged with the cylinder lock notch, the cylinder will be attempting to turn while still partially locked.
This produces a "catch" or "hard spot" in the trigger pull and will damage both the bolt and the cylinder lock notches.
This often appears as metal "pulled out" of the lock notches, with rounded off and burred notches.


>cont.

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>>35060954

BOLT DROP TIMING.
Continue to cock the hammer, LIGHTLY laying your right index finger on the cylinder just enough to prevent "free wheeling".
Watch for the bolt to drop back onto the cylinder. WHERE the bolt drops is CRITICAL.
The bolt MUST drop onto the leade or ramp in front of the actual cylinder notch.
If the bolt drops too soon, (in front of the notch ramp), it will mar the finish of the cylinder.
The bolt should drop into “about” the middle of the ramp.
If the bolt drops late, (farther toward the actual locking notch) the revolver may display "cylinder throw-by".
In this condition, during double action shooting the cylinder may rotate PAST the locking notch, and fire in an unlocked condition.
It's the nature of the Colt action, that a hesitant or jerky trigger pull by the user can induce throw-by in even a properly tuned Colt.
The Colt trigger should be pulled with a smooth, even pull, with no sudden jerks at the beginning.

CYLINDER LOCKUP.
Continue to pull the hammer back and both watch and listen for the bolt to drop into the cylinder lock notch.
The bolt must drop into the actual lock notch before or just as the hammer reaches full cock.
The most common Colt mis-time situation is the hammer cocks before the bolt drops into the lock notch. (Hammer is cocked, but cylinder isn't locked).
In this condition, with the hammer fully cocked, you can push the cylinder slightly, and you will hear the "CLICK" as the bolt drops into lock.
In my experience, most Colt's leave the factory with the bolt dropping a little late into the leade, but usually wear in to correct timing.
If the bolt drops onto the cylinder early, no real problem, but there will be extra finish wear.
If the bolt drops late (closer to the lock notch) the cylinder may "throw by" or rotate TOO far in double action and this can cause off-center primer hits and firing while unlocked.

>cont.

They're pretty expensive, but if you want one I'd say go for it.

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>>35060969
Each of these checks should be done on EACH chamber. All of these checks are better done individually. In other words, do the bolt retraction check on all six chambers, then do the bolt drop test, and so on.

A properly tuned Colt will:
Have a smoothly functioning bolt with no sticky or hesitant movement.

Unlock before the cylinder begins to turn.

The bolt will drop onto the middle of the ramp.

The bolt will drop into the lock notch just before or as the hammer reaches full cock.

Have a smooth trigger pull, which does "stack" or get heavier as the trigger is pulled.

>>35061038
>le zombie gun
anyone who puts green over their weapons are automatically faggots.

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>>35061074
thank you for contributing to the thread

>>35060454
>I've been looking at the colt detective special for possibly a pocket gun, anyone have any experience with them?

Have you actually handled one before? They are too large to be a good pocket gun for most people, unless you only wear pants 3-4 sizes too large or have the stature and cargo-pants only wardrobe of Hickok45. If your goal is a pocket gun, you would be much better served by a shrouded or enclosed hammer J-frame.

Also, what >>35060635 said applies as well. Older Colts (see: Python, anything else that has pre-Mk. V lockwork) do not have the durability of a S&W or Ruger. If something on them breaks, you will have a very hard time finding spare parts and service.

>>35061038
>gun looks retarded
>writes /lc/
is this a meme

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>>35061378

Alright thanks, kinda what I was figuring. Maybe I'll just get a new colt cobra then I just really hate the ugly grips and can't find any aftermarket ones. Anyone have an opinion on those?

>>35061401
>new Colt cobra

They are heavy for a CC revolver, cost over twice as much as more proven offerings, and the fit + finish on them sucks. Unless you really want a horse on your gun, buy something else.

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>>35061401
The grips, or the gun? About the gun, you have to understand the cobras/detective specials are a bit larger (closer to a ruger sp101) and pricey as fuck. If you want pocket carry .38 special... Look no further than the 642, a snag-free, lighter weight and smaller option that can be had for like $399.

The new Colt Cobra II is over priced and covered in sharp edges.

>>35061445
Listen to this anon

>>35061445
What can I say I'm a sucker for the horse, my problem with the j-fame revolvers is the five round cylinder can't get past that.

>>35061538
Go for the expensive 6 shot pony man. It's fine, but again you are probably gonna wanna IWB the thing.

>>35061126
I normally hate colors, but there's something charming about what you've done there.

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>>35061538
Actually, I just realized the Kimber k6 might be the gun for you,.

>6 shot
>shrouded hammer
>pricey

It's a better 6 shot option for POCKET CARRY than the cobra2.

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>>35061566
I thought it was just a bit more fun yeah. I got the idea cause I saw Yankee Marshal had those. I also polished up the cylinder and barrel with a little bit of mother's polish.

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>>35061566
>>35061602
He also bead-blasted the logos and stuff off one side which looks pretty good to me.

>>35060454

Different gunstore fag and milfag (becomes important in a sec) here.

Honestly, for what you're getting, there are other and better carry revolvers in active production.

So, I'm a current/former milfag (part-timer these days) and anything I own goes with me on runs, rucks, pack-trips, gets shot in the rain and unless I get it wet, I'm unlikely to clean it more than every several hundred rounds. In other words, I'm a retarded Joe and treat my weapons like I'm still gonna get to clean them up and turn them in. The revolvers I've found that actually cater to that are Smith and Ruger.

Honestly, for pocket carry or formal waist carry, S&W is king these days. I carried an Airweight for a while and liked it so much that it became my primary carry in all of the above situations except for hunting in predator country.

They're smooth, strong and classy as fuck. Ruger makes some models that come close as well.

T. Retarded gunstore faggot milfag brand shill.

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Does anyone here have a ruger 38 police special? Would you recommend it or do you have any issues? sorry to hijack the thread but they are similar guns

>>35061568
Thanks I'll have to look those up looks pretty sweet

>>35060454
>pocket gun
>hammer spur
eh, maybe try a ruger SP101 with bobbed hammer?

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>>35061673
I don't have one, but sure I would recommend one! If you re-read the thread carefully though, everyone suggests staying away from old Colts for carry however.

>>35061692
Don't let people meme on you too hard if you want that Kimber. People talk A LOT OF SHIT about handguns and what to carry.

just get a s&w airweight my dude. greatest snubby ever made.

>>35061074
maybe they just like green?

>>35060454
Gay