Cleaning your guns

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Hoppes Solvent and Oil. Patches and proper sized brush. Q-tips for star chambers.

I've been trying to clean out two WW1 rifles (K98AZ and Lee-Enfield No.1 Mk.3*) and I'm getting a lot of copper fouling on my hoppes soaked patches. What should I do to get out potentially decades of copper fouling?

>>34455100

>What do you use to clean out the buildup and lead
Whatever solvent I happen to have on hand, today it's Hoppes I got for free
>What kind of oil or lubricant do you use?
Motor oil, 3-in-1 oil
>Do you have any kinds of typical procedures you follow?
pull gun apart, clean dirty parts, smear lube on parts that move

It's a gun. It doesn't have to be perfect.

>>34455114
elbow grease. This might also be time to use a wire brush. Normally I wouldn't but if it's that built up just do it.

Hoppes #9 for cleaning
Slip200 for oil
Super Lube for grease
Renaissance Wax and Barricade for fingerprint/water protection

>>34455100
Ballistol all over it, inside and out

I just bathe my guns in it

>>34455100
Tipton's Truly Remarkable for copper and carbon. Wheel bearing grease for lube.

>>34455767
+1 on the wire brush for metal fouling. There are cleaning products out there that claim to help remove lead and/or copper, but you still ultimately have to scrape it off with the brush. Make sure to use a brass or bronze brush so you don't fuck up the rifling.

Ballistol, Slip2k, Hoppes and a brush for the nasty shit

>>34455114
One of the more aggressive copper solvents like Butch's Bore Shine or Sweet's 7.62. Just be aware that if you leave it in too long it can frost the bore (although that isn't probably a concern with a WW1 milsurp).

>>34455100
>lead, copper, and carbon
Hoppe's Benchrest #9 unless it's really really bad, then Butch's Bore Shine.
>plastic wad fouling in shotguns
Shooter's Choice Shotgun Bore and Choke Cleaner, a tornado brush on a pistol cleaning rod chucked in a cordless drill, and time.
>oil and lubricant
Shooter's Choice FP10 for oil, Kreighoff Gun Glide for grease.
>typical procedures
Only clean when noticing an issue with function or degradation in accuracy/patterning, or if it got rained on. Otherwise a quick wipe-down and in the safe it goes.

>>34455100
Remoil, lots and lots of Remoil. and a brush.

>What do you use to clean out the buildup and lead?
Froglube
>What kind of oil or lubricant do you use?
Froglube, Lucas Oil CLP/oil/grease
>Do you have any kinds of typical procedures you follow?
field strip, spray cleaner, scrub if I have to/pull boresnake through a couple of times, wipe clean, lube/grease, reassemble

>>34455100
>Hoppes No. 9
>BREAK CLP
>Patches
>Q-Tips
>Paper towels
>Old C7 cleaning kit
Process:
>Pull gun apart
>Douse part in CLP, wipe off crap with patch or soft paper towel, use Q-tips for tiny areas
>Boresnake down bore
>Run a cycle of Hoppes-soaked patch->Dry patches->Repeat down barrel
>Finish with a light CLP patch down barrel

It doesn't need to be more complicated than that.

>>34457871
>>34455100
Ballistol here as well.

There are better solvents out there, but ballistol is cheap , non toxic and not harsh enough to ruin finishes.

Only downside for me is that it's not common in SoCal so I mail order four cans at a time every once and a while.

I also use it for my bicycle and knives.

Occasionally I buy different stuff just to try out.

****READ THIS****
If you've got a heavily leaded /neglected bore, buy some 'chore boy' pure copper scrubs (like steel wool); unwrap one, wrap the strands of copper around your bore brush to beef it up a bit. Soak the barrel in hoppes 9 for days, then jam that shit through on a normal rod. Will strip out lead strips (looks black); resoak and repeat until clean. Cheap shit lead rounds are fucked, particularly magtech (e.g. 124gr lrn 9x19)

Thank me later!!!

For cleaning and lubrication I use a local brand called Blue Line. The cleaner is the best I've ever used out of many different brands. Takes carbon out real easy and dries up without leaving residue. Does not fuck up any finishes. Even Arsenal's weak ass black paint on their AKs which Safariland/Hoppes chewed right through. I use their oil too which I guess works just as good as any non piece of shit oil lube. For AKs and my FAL I use grease. I'm sure any grease will do.

BORE:

I take a patch soaked in Hoppe's and run it through until its wet in there then run a copper brush about 15 times then run the boresnake through a few times. After one cycle I continue until the dry patch I send through is sufficiently clean.

Obviously for pistons I use brass brushes to scrape the caked on baked on carbon, sometimes steel for the AK piston but not hard enough to cause scratches. I rarely use anything tougher than the blue nylon brush on my ARs.

Any other VZ58 owner surprised at how clean that baby runs? I barely have to clean the receiver internals longer than 10 minutes.

>>34455100
Use Sonic cleaner to clean everything in 15min
Re-assemble gun
Done.

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>>34455100
Hoppe's No.9 Solvent and Lubricant OIl. Always does the job with a proper brush kit and some paper towels.

I try not to spray evaporative solvents into the crevices of my gun because there's really no need to and kills any lubrication where it's difficult to apply it again. I generally clean after every usage and re-apply lubricant where parts see the most friction. Never had a problem with Hoppe's.

>>34455100
My procedure is:
>Disassemble gun
>saturate barrel with solvent like hoppes or ballistol (for MAS 36 whose finish gets dissolved off by hoppes) with a wet patch or just spray it down barrel
>Run properly sized copper bristle brush through. Used to only go one way but now go back and forth without removing brush at end
>run dry patches through barrel from breech to muzzle
>run ~5 wet patches down barrel from breech to muzzle
>plug up barrel ends with rolled up patches and clean rest of gun with Q-tips, brushes, rags, etc.
>Remove patch plugs and run 1 wet patch/3 dry patches until dry patches come out consistently clean

Anything I am doing wrong?

>cum inside barrel
>gun shakes in ecstasy
>all that nasty gunk gets shook loose
>use synthetic oil or cum for lubricant
>don't use memesurp for ammo in my nugget
>no need for brush, as my needle dick fits inside and expands to fit the gun
>dick comes out BLACKED
>wipe off rod with towel, rinse and repeat

Bore snake with either hoppes 9 or CLP, lately moreso CLP, scrub around chambers a bit with brush. Hoppes/CLP again on moving parts surfaces. That's it.

>>34458358
>Shooter's Choice FP10 for oil, Kreighoff Gun Glide for grease.
Don't buy gun lubricants.

>>34460506
I don't, I get it free.

i think i do way more than you guys, i just spray it down with clp and scrub any carbon out, wipe it down with a clean rag and then a light coating of clp. i just run a few wet patched down the barrel then a couple of dry patches. ive scrubbed for lead and copper a few times but its every couple of months if that.

Why bother cleaning your guns? A good gun should go thousands of rounds without cleaning, and a spritz of CLP cycled in the action sorts that out.

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>>34455100
>Clean your guns
>implying I actually shoot my guns
>implying I've ever even been the range even once this year
>implying I ever even leave the house
Fuck you OP. You don't need to hurt my feelings like this

WD-40
Works like a charm

break-free CLP for the AK and SKS. Otherwise, Hoppe's and some oil.

>>34461499
Maybe people would hang out with you if you weren't a fucking weeaboo.

>roll out yoga mat
>put on gloves i stole from hospital
>disassemble gun on mat
>clean shit with q-tips and toilet paper because fuck buying patches
>use old-ass bottle of hoppes i still haven't managed to empty yet

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>>34461778
well, maybe i would hang out with people if people weren't a bunch of douche-bags
No, i was meant to stalk alone

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>>34461880
>people weren't a bunch of douche-bags

>>34461778

Is hang out with anon as a weeaboo, but I don't know how to talk to people either.

t. weeaboo

>>34458358
Sweet's 7.62 is that shit. Makes cleaning up after shooting corrosive super easy. I bathe my milsurp in CLP afterwards.

Hoppe's and CLP for regular guns.

>>34455100
For buildup and fouling, any proper solvent should do; you might as well pay a little more for something non-toxic or less toxic. Generic cleaning stuff should be fine for light cleaning.

For proper lubrication, you're going to want a proper lubricating oil. All-purpose CLP and other cheaper oils have a tendency to gum up or dissipate, especially in the presence of high temps, carbon buildup, etc...which really defeats the purpose of using CLP on areas prone to those conditions.

I'm going to plug Lucas Gun Oil here: I lubed up my M&P with Remoil at first, and didn't notice any particular difference in operation.

I lubed it with Lucas oil next, and now she slides smooth as silk. I still prefer a light spray of Remoil on the recoil spring, but where the slide contacts the frame, Lucas did a really great job at keeping it well-lubricated over a long period of time.

Cost 4 bucks on Amazon for a 4 oz bottle; only need a few drops here and there, and it fits in my range bag just fine. Supposedly, it works well on long guns and MGs as well.

Run dry patch
Run solvent patch
Run brush 5 times
Run solvent patch
Run dry patch
Run copper solvent patch
Run dry patch
Run copper solvent patch
Run dry patch
Spray degreaser
Run oil patch
Run dry patch

>>34455100
>"As far as oil goes I use hoppes..."

You could also use Mobil 5W-30 synthetic available at your local retailer for six-to-seven dollars per quart, decant into your dripper bottle, as needed.

>>34455100
>What do you use to clean out the buildup and lead?
Boretech

What kind of oil or lubricant do you use?
Slip2k

>Do you have any kinds of typical procedures you follow?
Apply solvent to bore, scrub with a jag for about 10 passes through bore, push wet patch through and leave to sit for 20-30 minutes, push dry patches through


My method sounds incredibly simple only because I don't skimp on solvents. Boretech makes the best shit that is nontoxic imo

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>>34455100
>"What kind of oil or lubricant do you use?"

Hoppe's oil or the 5W30 like previous anon mentioned on smaller, intricate parts (springs). For the major moving parts, such as between frame and slide and locking lug - anywhere metal meets metal - I use a product called "Slide Glide".

http://brianenos.com/product-category/slide-glide/

It doesn't dribble or drool; it stays exactly where you dab it, and it lasts for a good long while.

Used it on my Glock, of course; used it on my Mossberg and even on my AK: That shit works!

Dabbed it on my neighbor's Glock when he had me take a look at it, saying he was going plinking over the weekend. Monday morning, I followed up with him, and he said it was like night and day.

About $12 for a little tub, $8 for a tube. I've had my tub for close to a decade, and I've barely used a third of it (occasional shooter, unfortunately).

Something to consider.

>>34455100

I drink fruity mixed drinks and listen to the chicago police scanner. Makes it a great experience.

>>34466437
Thought I was the only one to do this.

I use Slip 2000 EWL for my cleaning and oiling needs. I'd use motor oil but I got a huge bottle from a pal so it's no biggie. I like that it's non toxic so while the lead will inevitably turn me into a fudd and/or boomer by the age of 40, I can live a little while longer with triple digit IQ by using a nontoxic oil. For greasing I use Slip 2000 EWG. Not for any real reason either but it's also non toxic and is designed not to react with the oil. I'd use bearing grease if I had to but I do like the Slip 2000 grease. The oil is pretty uneventful but the grease performs better than other nonfirearms greases I've used.

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>>34455100
>TFW copper ammo
>TFW black powder
>TFW water cleans it all
>TFW rich

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Just bought a 92fs. Should I not use the wire brush on the barrel? What kind of brushes should I use to clean; (light use 100 rounds or so) .22, mosin, and the 92. light oil all the surfaces even external to prevent rusting?

use bread crumbs