How bad did I do?

>>34450378
>Also, how can I stop the rust from spreading more? I've removed what I could so far, but I can't get this shit to come off.
steel wool to knock off the surface rust. then coat it in oil, real oil not some bullshit like rem oil or wd40.

>>34450378
Use Hoppes and #0000 steel wool. Post-2008 870s are known for rusting, consider getting it refinished.

>>34450378
First off, your dad is a fucking idiot. That is not your typical Remington Rust™
- I know because I have a beautiful trusty rusty Remington 870 Police that has a lovely allover brown patina. What you have is just careless water/finger pint spots rusting due to poor care.

And what the fuck that- that green painted stock? Jesus.
At any rate, you did good over your dad's stupidity. You can get by with what was posted above- steel wool, and motor oil. Eventually hit it again with steel wool, degrees and paint it with one of the name brands.

You're fine. With time and patience it will come off without marring the finish in most areas if not all.

That was my first shotgun to basically. I bought it when I turned 18, then read about all of the hate for newer 870's. I have shot it more than any other shotgun and it has failed less than my 500, 1887, or ithaca.

Read about wax slugs. Fun to make. Cheap. Safe. Surprisingly accurate. Good practice for accuracy with a shotgun.

>>34450406
How much oil should I use? Should I just use a light coating or soak the fuck out of it?

>>34450456
I know he's an idiot.

>>34450493
>How much oil should I use?
Enough to make it oily. This shits not rocket science.

>>34450504
I just don't wanna make anything worse than it is.

>>34450583
You can't unless you deliberately try to. Remember, this is a rusting Freedom Group 870 with painted green furntiture. Even if you fuck up, it's not like it can get much worse.

>>34450583
Just put a light coat on there and spread it out with your finger and leave it.

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Considering it was a gift, you did quite well. Consider replacing the plastic trigger group with a metal one and upgrading to a non-MIM extractor.

>>34450442
brush that shit!

>>34450378
Get some grease or oil or both, put it on a towel and scrub it until the rust is gun.
Probably want to reblue it using kno3.
Also a torch would get the rust off as well.

>>34450378
How the fuck does a finished gun rust?.OPS dad confirmed for not taking care of his shit

>>34450780
He has other, older guns that he doesn't take care of either. I cri every tiem.

A logical solution to a shitty new-manufacture 870 rusting too easily, would be to give it a good old fashioned rust blue.

It might be a bit like polishing a turd, but you might as well turn that con into a pro, and it'll be miles ahead of any other at-home finish you could do.

what the fuck is the obsession with shockwaves?

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>>34450893
wat

>>34450583
If you really want to be safe, take the handguard, bolt, stock and trigger group off and then coat the barrel and receiver with a thin film of oil. Place into a preheated oven at 350degrees and leave it for 30 minutes. You will bake in the oil and it should be safe for quite a while. Then just oil it after everyday use. I use Extra Virgin Olive Oil, same stuff I put in boiling water when making spaghetti

Basic firearms maintenance. Coat lightly with good oil. Repeat a few times over several weeks to get the oil into the crinkle finish. That's all.

>>34450972
What kind of oil? No one in this thread has specified a brand. Whale oil? Fuel oil? Motor oil? Canola oil?

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>>34452359
http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html
This stuff is good ya frickin goof ball

>>34452487
Wait, where do the batteries going to ride on that plane? Nice twin foamie build. Is it for FPV or just fucking around?

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>>34450961
I... I think this is bait

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>>34452519
That big boy is going to be a beer bomber one day, not gonna do fpv cause way to slow to get any fun with it and I already have a Stryker and a 3D(pic related) foamy rigged for that.

>>34452519
Oh and batteries go right behind the wing in the fuselage, I ended up adding a big 900kv donkey to the front to give it a little more power and the can bay is going directly under the wing so it can bomb and not have the CG all fucked.

That rusting seems really an easy deal. Anons have posted right info - the finest steel wool with a proper oil, even motor oil will do. Heck, it seems so light to me that my guess is that normal use and outside cleaning every range trip would get the job done overtime

>>34452838
I've taken steel wool to it, but it's still sticking on there pretty hard.

To the anon who mentioned blueing it, how difficult of a process is that?

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>>34450378
>>34450382
>>34450418
>>34450442

damn dude

>>34450378
They are easy to disassemble and reassemble with the basic manual, you should consider breaking the receiver down too to inspect the hammer, etc. and lube it a little. The pins can be pushed out easily. Depending on the year it is either fairly clean or full Madonna in there.

Clean thoroughly.
Douse with CLP.
Degrease.
Rattle can.

>>34450378

use some Rust-Oleum on it. Shit works wonders.

My Remington is from the 50s and has less rust. As if it matters, cool gun OP. Swap out the furniture though.

>>34450378
Just hoppes 9 it the rust'll come right off with a good wipe down, the rust isnt even that bad. Refinish with Rust-Oleum or with gun or motor oil or something, sand down the stock and repaint it a new color you think is tasteful.

LOLLing @ the retards ITT taking a freedumb™ group remshit this seriously. Sure its your dad's gift to you but he made it his own, so can you.

>>34452957
Rust bluing is a horrifying process the first time you do it, since it first involves intentionally rusting the gun, then boiling it in water and going at it with steel wool.
Here's Based Larry showing how it's done.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuP4m6L95K4

The steam box is optional if you're patient. You can just hang it up in the bathroom for a few days or a week while you take hot showers, or put it in any warm and humid place you have. A good rust blue finish takes at least 5 cycles of rust, boil, and carding - so without the steam box, it can take a month or more... But it's not exactly hard work either, it'll be a couple of hours a week and a lot of waiting in between.

Since it's just the receiver rusting, I'd strip it down and do just that, the barrel probably has a decent finish on it.
FYI, Rust bluing is a considered a relatively high-end finish that you'll find on all of those high-dollar over-unders and safari guns. Most guns that still come with a blued finish nowadays are hot salt blued - which is nice in its own respect, but it doesn't have the same richness as a good rust blue.

Do that, and swap the furniture for Walnut, and you'll have a real beautiful 870 at the end of it. Change some MIM parts for Steel if you feel it's necessary too, but I'd just keep on using them unless they broke, personally.

>>34455801
>Rust-Oleum
It's bad and you should feel bad. Go away.

>>34450961
This

And be sure to use Extra Virgin olive oil, not the shitty stuff. Preferably local so for you that would be California.

To be sure you'll want to test the oil before applying it to your gun. Poor quality oils have high Oleic acid contents and just aren't good for anything. The best way is to just make yourself a small simple salad, I like arugula, drizzle a bit of oil on, salt, a small squeeze of lemon....toss and taste. You'll know right away if you've hit the mark.

Oil selected you'll want to pay some attention to the applicator. I use a lint-free Kimtech Pure wipes though I am sure there are alternatives. The keys are:
>lint free
>non abrasive
>non static
>sealed container
>cleanroom certified
That last one is really a nice-to-have more than a have-to.

So oil and wipes in hand you'll want to ascertain the grain direction of the metal you are wiping. Generally easy with barrels as it runs longitudinally, except for externally twisted hammer forge that runs diagonal. In any case be sure to wipe with the grain. Long smooth strokes, lifting the wipe rather than stopping it on the surface.

On temperature I disagree with the OOOP (Original Olive Oil Poster). I prefer the room air between 70 and 72.5 degrees F and the metal temp slightly warmer at 80-81 F. This is easily attained by blowing the metal with a hair dryer on low with a panyhose over the outlet to act as a filter. Humidity should be 55% or less always. You will definitely want both the wipe and the EVOO to acclimate to room temp before application. I store my oil in the wine cellar so I usually have to bring it into the cleaning room about 2 hours ahead of time.

Obviously all the normal considerations apply: soft warm UV filtered incandescent lighting, minimal air movement in the room, The cleaning surface on which the firearm is placed should be covered with cordovan leather, and while the actual surface below isn't a big concern I've always had good luck with German marble.