GRG

>>34280974
ill start with one:

i dont know much about welding, is there a way to join two pieces of metal with a glob of molten metal that hardens and dries after a little bit of time, kind of like hot glue? most welding shit ive seen is instantly fused the moment the torch or heat is removed. im asking because id like to fit something over a hollow cylinder over a rod and put the adhesive on the inside of the cylinder if possible

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>>34280974
Semi-related to you pic, actually:
My Enfield safety is fucked. Theres no spring tension keeping in either safe or fire positions. It just flops around and goes with the flow of gravity and/or inertia.
Plz halp

>>34280991
not sure the purpose of your mod but how about jb weld?

>>34280974
stalls when accelerating and sometimes in neutral when I let off the clutch.
the ignition is good and it has compression.
It has to be a vaccume leak or a fuel problem but I cant figure out which.

>>34280991
Soldering? That's a fairly common procedure.

>>34281021
this.
That shits the bees knees.

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>>34281002
Your Enfield should never have its safety engaged to begin with. With your safety on you cannot plink the Hun. How do you expect to storm Canal du Nord without plinking the Hun, lad?

>>34281040
Truth. Get the 24 hour long cure time. Leave it alone for a week. Solid as a fucking rock.

>>34280991
silver braze

You'd put it on the inside then heat one end and it will draw towards the heat

>>34281002
did you ever pull it apart and look at a schematic to see if it was missing parts?

>>34281026
vacuum leak doesn't effect a vehicle when acceleration, only at idle

as the throttle is opened more, the percentage of effect the vacuum leak has on it decreases

It could be a clogged fuel filter or fuel pump

Get an OBD2 computer from Harbor Freight or find if a shop can hook up to it and give you fuel trims
If they're over positive 10% on the short, you aren't getting enough fuel so change the filter and go from there

>>34281002
this is a common problem with enfields, mine is a little wiggly too if not pushed all the way in either direction.
check out this thread for advice, on mine, i just removed the spring and bent it a little bit with pliers and the tension was back
>http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?243753-fixing-no1-mk3-safety-lever

>>34281040
>>34281021
thanks i just looked it up, its an epoxy, will it work with two pieces of metal? its not like it needs to be super strong, im just trying to fix the cleaning rod of my mauser. the slotted head that holds the patch fell off the rod and the threads are stripped on it

>>34281145
JB weld works on anything you child

>>34281152
im excited to try it thanks, never had experience with it

>>34281145
why dont you just weld it and then grind it as thin as possible if it's just for the cleaning rod

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>>34281052
Yes Lieutenant, of course Sir.
When I fire at the Hun, my Enfield's safety flops to the safe position on accident, making it cumbersome and time-consuming to operate tje weapon for a follow-up shot.
I kill one Hun, but mechanical failure stops me from killing his mates in a timely fashion,
Sir.

>>34281145
Yes, that shit will work. Just need to make sure the mating surfaces are clean.

>>34280974
>revolving thread
>>34223959

>>34281145
>welding the head onto the cleaning rod

I hope you dont ever intend to take it off

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>>34281154
yeah i might do that honestly, its not like i ever use the cleaning rod for cleaning its just for aesthetics
>>34281162
i just figured theres always threads that pop up asking how to fix something or whatever but never seen a fixit general thread

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>>34281169
no, its basically the top part of pic related. i guess it screwed on because maybe the soldier was given a brush as well to change it out with in the field? i dunno, was just looking for a cheap fix for a part that serves no functional purpose for me

>>34281183
weld it on and grind it thin or use JB weld
or both

>>34281227
im gonna try the jb weld idea first and see how well it holds, it seems the easiest and fastest way. thanks guys i have a feeling jb weld will become my new friend from now on

>>34281237
if you have to wait 24 hours vs spend 20 minutes I'm pretty sure it's not faster

I mean if you dont have a welder I get it, but come on

>>34281237
It will, oh yes, it will. Just follow the basic rules as others here have said. Get surfaces chemically clean - acetone is great, rubbing alcohol is pretty good but not as good. Apply a bit much and clean off the excess with a solvent-wetted cloth once assembled. Wait a week, do not touch, do not heat to accelerate cure, and your bond will be similar to welding with aluminum. Tough as hell, can be lightly machined, finished, resists heat to something like 600 degrees F. Wish I'd known about it from childhood, but for the past few years it's been a great friend.

>>34281309
brake cleaner is best

>>34281309
>Wait a week

nigger you can touch it in an hour and work with it in 24

Thinking about rebluing an SKS. Is the Birchwood Casey Kit a good cold blue method, or should I go all out on hot bluing? Is there anything I should be aware of before starting?

>>34281369
>>34281369
how bad is the current finish? if you are just looking to touch up some wear points, use cold blue. if its missing a lot, hot blue is the strongest and most permanent method

i just started using this shit for touch ups on non valuable milsurps and it looks really nice and dark, almost black

http://www.g96.com/products/gun-blue-creme/

barely need to use any too, im sure it will last a long time.

>>34281369
cold bluing is trash
Hot bluing will cost you a shit load

For home bluing you want to do rust bluing

>>34281388
Pretty much all gone. There's some left on the barrel, which I'd like to remove and refinish, but the magazine, bolt, dust cover and sight assembly are all mostly gone. Worst of all, it has started to rust slightly due to the lack of protection.

>>34281417
bluing isnt a good protection
bluing is by nature, rust

>>34281417
>>34281428
not that guy but i agree, bluing is not necessarily the best for actual rust protection, more for looks and light surface rust protection


have you considered ceracoat?

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>>34281369
this is what hot bluing involves

>>34281433
Definitely not ceracoating. And I'm aware bluing is an oxidation process. Howwever, it is a largely controlled oxidation process that usually prevents further oxidation until the blue wears off.

>>34281433
duracoat is much better for people doing it themselves
cerakote requires filtering and an HVLP

>>34281441
>it is a largely controlled oxidation process that usually prevents further oxidation until the blue wears off.

The prevention properties are so minor it shouldnt even be considered

>>34281450
I mean, it's only like 2 micrometers worth of protection, but it's a damn sight better than bare metal. It will still be oiled and all that, but I can't bear to dura/ceracoat it. It just seems tacky. I'll look into bluing processes further. Rust bluing and cold bluing seem to be the way to go. It doesn't need to be perfect. Just good enough to contrast nicely with the red wood.

>>34281460
what type of SKS is it?

>>34281527
Type 56.

>>34281535
>>34281535
in that case i wouldnt feel bad about cerakoating it. they arent really collectible and cerakoat is a nice feeling finish, feels more like actual gun blue than duracoat. just pay someone to do it for you, its cheap and tons of people do it in their garages for a small fee. you could also try parkerizing it

>>34281026
What >>34281142 said. Start with a fault code scan. A good scan tool is expensive, but some auto parts stores will run one for you for free. Call and ask around.

Gun: EAA Windicator .357 4" barrel

Issue: It's hard to explain, please bear with me. Sometimes--but not every time--when you try to pull the hammer back, it stops part-way back and won't cock. It happens more often in single-action, though sometimes it happens in double-action too. When the issue happens, swinging the gun downwards rapidly while cocking it works sometimes. If it doesn't, I need to move to a different cylinder. However, I've determined that it's not just specific cylinders that have the issue. The issue does not happen when the cylinder is out.

The issue gets worse every time I shoot .357 out of it.

The gun is under warranty from EAA, it's only a few months old. However, EAA's customer service isn't great, I'd have to pay shipping and go a month or more without a carry gun.

So, my questions are:

>What is the problem?
>How difficult is the repair?
>If I were to work on the gun myself, but failed to fix it and had to send it back to EAA, would they know I'd tried to work on it? Would it void the warranty?

I've never worked on guns before other than basic stripping or cleaning, but I am used to doing other types of work on small things.

>>34281309
>people not knowing about jb weld as a child
wot in tarnation

>>34281737
>EAA Windicator .357
i bet this would be easy to diagnose if you took off the side plate and watched the action parts interacting while you recreated the problem

maybe there is a defective or worn part, or some sort of problem with how the sear and hammer or springs match up

definitely not good for a new gun!

>>34281688
There likely won't be a code unless his trims are over 25% in either direction

He needs raw fuel trim data

>>34281737
I'm putting money on the transfer bar or other internal bits are catching
I don't know hoe windicators work , but take off the side plate and take a look
Don't take anything out or you probably won't get it back together

>>34281737
My Webley Mk VI sometimes (very rarel) does the same thing.
From what I can tell, it's due to a burr on the hand that sometimes snags on shit; this is why shaking it a little fixes the problem.

I'm not going to be "fixing" the problem on my web key because it's all matching, for better or for worse, and still works 99% of the time.

However I'd open the cylinder and then check the shape of the hand just to be sure.

>>34280974
Not related but theoretically could you store one of these guns in a tall, opaque water bottle with a cut near the top for concealment and a fast draw? You could just carry it around in your hands, yes?

Bump because unique thread

>>34281535>>34281535
>>34281535

try this

https://www.reddit.com/r/guns/comments/2bgcvd/diy_home_reblue_stepbystep_nitre_blue_in_your/

>>34281766
Not him, but dad split and remarried and moved 5 states north before I was 4.

Everything I fixed was duct taped.

>>34280974
I have a old bolt action .22 it needs a firing pin spring, Where should I find one?

protip: no one sales any NOS/aftermarket springs for it

>>34284627
Numrich would be stop #1 for me. If they don't have it eBay is also a good source, and gunbroker as well.

>>34284680
Protip: It never had a spring in the design to begin with because it was never fully implemented

>>34281460
if you want it for look its fine, but it's not a protectant like paint or parkerizing or nitride

>>34284715
so it's a prototype gun that doesnt work

>>34284822
no, its a military training rifle

>>34285180
as in unsafe to actually fire
gotcha

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Browning a5, crack on receiver, what do

>>34285285
first off tell the retard who didnt set the friction rings correctly when shooting rounds heavier than trap loads they're dumb as fuck, second, you're fucked

Any advice on stock work and finishes?

>>34285766
Thank my dad for shooting 3in magnum loads. I figured I was fucked but wanted a second opinion

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>>34285940
4chan thinks my post is sppam

>>34286070
you have to set friction rings under the handguard for heavy loads

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Just got a standard grade finnish vkt m39 from classic firearms, stock is good with only a small barely visible crack behind the tang. Receiver and magazine are a little rough, how do i fix it up?

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>>34286459
Here's a pic of the magazine

>>34286459
>>34286471
I think the worn finish is aesthetic, but the crack in the tang should probably be fixed or at least monitored for spreading.

>>34286471
oil since there's not really any meaningful rust

If there was a decent bit of built up surface rust I'd say take 0000 steel wool and lightly rub it off
HOWEVER, that would take off that remaining bluing as well since it's so worn

I would just oil it and leave it

>>34286485
Finns have very THICC grips so a tang crack is pretty irrelevant

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>>34286485
It's really small

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>>34286459
>>34286471
>>34286515
I might take it to a gunsmith to have it re-blued

>>34286613
heresy

>>34284627
>>34284680
either ebay or numrich, or find something from a similar gun and if its a bit longer cut til it works. a lot of basic springs for the main function of weapons can be interchangeable with slight tweaking. if the spring is for a custom or novel feature not so much. firing pin spring should be easy to find something to modify or custom do.

how long is the firing pin channel? start with the basic specs and look up other similar caliber rifles

>>34285285
replace the springs, looks like it was shot on old and worn recoil springs by a negligent owner. anytime the actual receiver of a gun is broken or compromised thats a really serious problem, i would take that type of issue to a real gunsmith and see his thoughts. it might be something you can strengthen up with a weld or repair of some type but chances are you wont want to risk having a bolt fly into your forehead so its hard to say

>>34286471
>>34286459
leave the metal as is, thats a quality milsurp and you will only hurt the monetary value by fucking around trying to repair the original metal finish. collectors prefer the authentic worn battle look to something artificially new looking. personally i think it looks badass. that magazine trigger guard probably came off a tsar era mosin, finns rebuilt mosins using captured shit from their wars with russia

>>34286613
nigger dont you fucking dare. and a reblue is not going to solve your rusted or pitted metal problem anyway. honestly though, how is that a "standard" grade? i think you got fucked by classic arms, not sure what their grading criteria is but your gun looks to have significant metal wear pitting, and keep in mind classic was selling cracked stock finns at a $100 discount so i would just call and have them send you a new one or reimburse you a bit if it bothers you.

take solace in the fact you are not alone, many people report this shit with classic, not sure if they just try to pass of their shit to unsuspecting people or if they are making legit mistakes but a decent amount of people on the internet report getting crap from classic even after their "handpick" upcharge options

there was an anon in a milsurp thread here the other day who posted his replacement finn m39 from classic because the first one they sent him was cracked or fucked up somehow and the new one he got was fucking mint condition so they will try to fix any issues it seems. how much did you pay for that?

>>34286745
$289.99+$23.83 for shipping

>>34286761
well i guess you made out alright, on the open market in private sales and such they tend to go for around $350

>>34286687
>looks like it was shot on old and worn recoil springs by a negligent owner

A5s have friction rings that have to be set right under the handguard
it's not a spring issue

>>34284627
nig-rig a spring from a ballpoint pen

>>34287073
wow im going to have to look up how they work. how does that system work as wear progresses? dont the rings wear out under use and stop performing the recoil functions?

>>34287209
tried spring O/D is too big

>>34289308
make your own with the right gauge wire. what caliber is the rifle, 22? have you tried taking it to a gunsmith and having him look through his springs parts bin to see if anything is close enough to work?

>>34281002
I had this problem actually. What I did was is disassemble the safety then I just put some black tape on the smooth contact parts then cut it out. What that did is gave enough girth for the safety to engage if I remember right.

>>34289308
if pens to big use lighter

>>34289032
in my experience no

Have a h&r pump protector (870 clone) it fails to feed the shells from the tube into the chamber. There are 2 arms on the receiver that should push the shell into the chamber but it just binds the racking motion up. They aren't bent and are removable(I've replaced em twice with direct replacements from Remington). With them removed the shells just fall out the bottom, with them in the shells get hung up on them. Remington won't honor the 3 year warranty on it and wants $475 to fix a $175 gun.

>>34283036
Those are smoke grenade launchers from a tank.

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>>34284627
Take a spring from Butch's switchblade.

>>34285940
>>34286256
Related question: How do you remove lacquer?

I bought a Remshit with a wood stock, it looks nice but the lacquer feels like plastic and I hate it. How do I remove it and make it feel more like a wood grain? Can I use a chemical of some sort?

I don't think I can just do it with sandpaper, because there are patterns etched in around the hand grips, and I couldn't reach the laquer in them with sandpaper.

I have a cz612 trap that I bought new and the bitch is picky about its ammo. it fails to extract and gets stuck cases, I have to mortar against my leg, or sometimes even clear the obstruction by taking it down and using a cleaning rod and force. I sent it back to CZ and they said they could not recreate the issue. should I send it back again? I love the thing it just is very picky, more so than my buddies saiga 12. thoughts/questions? need pics?

>>34290959
Literally googled "how to remove lacquer" because I know I don't have access to caustic chemicals.

Lacquer on Wood

1

Put on rubber gloves to protect your hands. Clean the wood with a cloth dipped in turpentine. This removes any wax or other substances on the lacquer.

2

Combine equal parts denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner. Apply a thick coat of the mixture to a small area of the wood with a paintbrush.

3

Scrub the lacquer with steel wool. Move the steel wool in small circles to scrape off the finish. Use a small scraping tool to access the finish in any crevices. Wipe off the remaining thinner mixture while it is still wet with a cloth.

4

Examine the stripped section of wood. If some lacquer remains, repeat the process until it is completely free of the finish. Continue removing the lacquer in this fashion from small sections of the wood until you have stripped the whole item. For the final removal, rub the steel wool in the direction of the wood grain.

>>34291155
Sweet, I'll do that.

What would you recommend putting on afterwards to re-finish it to feel more natural?

I basically want to reverse sporterize this rifle. I want to take a sporting rifle and make it as much like milsurp as possible. I want it to feel a little more soft and woody like a Mosin stock.

>>34280974
Pardon my ignorance, but what are those?

>>34291462
this >>34290095

>>34281322
Sure you can. And I have the odd time when necessary. But epoxies become strongest after about a week, more or less depending on temperature.

>>34281647
Another option, and a helluvalot cheaper, is VHT Engine Block paint. Spray can's about $10. The stuff is a bit runny, so clean, a very light coat, wait ten minutes, another very light coat, another 10 minutes, then a final slightly thicker coat and watching carefully for excess and runs. Takes around a week to cure fully and not smell funny, but the stuff resists scratches really nicely and in the fine metal flake dark grey version has a slight texture to it. Doesn't show fingerprints and makes a good compromise between matte and gloss.

>>34290959
that's not lacquer
Its an oil based sealer

use wood stripper and then stain and seal with permalyn

>>34291013
bring it to a gunsmith and have him take a flexhone to it or do it yourself

>>34291462
cut down compact lee enfield with a big ass suppressor for use in assassinations