Recently I decided to remove the scratches and scrapes from my sword for the first time. It went well enough and I finally got the lines to look as close to a mirror finish as I could being an amateur, but the folding pattern is now next to nonexistant. Is there a way to brighten those up again? Someone said linseed oil. Another person said to boil lemon juice.
And as a side question, how does buffing on a wheel or slathering it in boiled lemon juice affect the blade? I know you shouldn't heat a blade up for risk of altering the temper, but that is the extent of what I've heard.
>>34073389
Just sayin'
>>34073389
use a simple acid
like lemon juice or white vinegar
>remove the scratches and scrapes
how did they get on your blade?
and why not keep them?
You're going to need to give that shit an acid bath or something breh
The only reason you can see the different metals in a pattern weld is because they've reacted differently to treatment.
>>34073389
>my sword
>>34073389
>how does buffing on a wheel or slathering it in boiled lemon juice affect the blade?
don't need to boil
and buffing it just polishes it by removing a very small amount from the surface
>>34073434
It was accumulated over a month or more of test cutting. They weren't bad at first. I liked them. But I wanted to see if I could learn to clear them if I wished.
>>34073389
My man, you can either have a mirror finish or a dull shade of grey that displays the folding batters, you can't have both.
Just boil it in vinegar until the pattern appears then use whatever oil you want to stop it from rusting.
>>34073389
Assuming that it was properly quenched and treated, boiling temperatures near water aren't going to do anything to the temper.
Thanks for the information.
>>34073473
I wasn't aware of that. When I first got the sword the pattern was certainly vibrant and the blade did look a dull gray. But I suppose I equated 'mirror-finish' to as little imperfection as possible and still reflective. Now with the sanding I've done, it has noticable striations and less reflection. But it is uniform and without horizontal scratches.
IIRC vinegar, lemon juice (acetic acid) and ferric chloride are some of the more popular etchant to use of these things. The first tow in particular may work better if warm. How well they'll take, the exact hues created, and how rapidly they'll work depends on temperature, exact steel grade, exact composition of the etchant... More craft than science.
Be a bit careful about how you go about polishing the blade beforehand, you don't want any burnishing. Then before applying the corrosive etchant, clean the blade very carefully. Any fat or so left on the blade will retard or stop the etching, possibly leaving you with unetched fingerprints shining bright on your otherwise etched surface, or some other such misery.