Cleaning antique dagger

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i took a more clear picture, because i just realised it's harder to see the dagger on black desk...

>>33918507

It's a bayonet.

>>33918507
Make an electrolysis bucket. It's easy and it'll shed the rust without you niggering up the blade with steel wool or sandpaper.
For the wood I'd go with linseed oil.

>>33918574
My first thought also. My second thought, what is a bayonet but a dagger on the end of a rifle? In any case, I wouldn't be entirely sure how to properly restore such an artifact, but will bump- maybe somebody else here has the knowledge.

>>33918507
>hello, i have bought what i think is a world war 1 german dagger, but it's covered in rust, the blade is mostly fine there was still some oil on it because thee guy that sold it for me said that it was found in a box full of these dagger (but who knows where he got it). Does anyone know is it possible to clean it? or i shoud jus leave it like that?

Go ahead and clean it. to remove active rust.

Do not use electrolysis Oil and wire wool.

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/c/caring-for-your-iron-and-steel/

See above from Victoria and Albert museum

Method
1.If the knife handle is not iron, for example, bone or ceramic, cover it with Clingfilm to prevent staining. This is to help prevent solvents or cleaning materials from affecting the resin that may have been used to hold the tang of the blade in the handle. For the same reason, avoid immersing the knife and make sure that solvents don't come into contact with the handle.
2.Make a cotton wool swab, moisten it with white spirit and rub over the whole blade to remove dirt, grease and some corrosion products.
3.Use the wooden kebab stick itself to rub gently at the corroded patches.

4. Use a small amount of a mild abrasive cream on a cotton swab to rub gently at the corroded areas. Take care to rinse with white spirit frequently and check that you are not creating bright patches.

5.If the corrosion is very resistant, the last resort is to use wire wool. The wire wool must be extremely fine - use only 0000 grade. Take a small amount of the wire wool, and wrap it round a kebab stick to make a swab, moisten it with white spirit and gently rub the corroded area, rinsing frequently with white spirit. Pre-soaking the corrosion in white spirit can soften it and aid removal.
6.Wipe over the surface with a swab dampened with white spirit, and then with a swab dampened with methylated spirit to remove residues.
7.If the object is to be displayed, you could complete the treatment by applying a wax coating.

When done apply
https://www.theruststore.com/Renaissance-Wax-P235.aspx

Museum wax/renassiance wax

If you must use an abrasive or chemical rust remover then use these products

http://picreator.co.uk/our-products/

They are utilised in museums worldwide.

So in summary you could use
Renaissance Metal
De-Corroder
Safe, Non-toxic system
for rust removal
with full control

BUT

You are ar better following the V and A steps.

Do not use electrolysis on antique items as you are effecting the composition of the materials and destroying history.

Finally

It is not a very rare piece being from the era of mass production and is an ideal piece to learn about conservation techniques.

Arresting corrosion and stabilising any piece is perfectly acceptable conservation. Altering it beyond that is not.

>>33918507
>>33918537
That is a WW2-era German SG.84/98 Type-III bayonet.

>>33918650

thanks, will try to clean it with cotton wool and spirit.
Will post the picture after an hour if anyone is interested to see changes...

p.s. the handle is partly wooden, but at first glance it looks like rusted metal

>>33918714
thanks for the info, i did only little research on it because seller didn't even knew from what part of the world or era it is...

>>33918650
Quick question: why not electrolysis for the blade (not full immersion, that fucks the wood)?

>>33918507
w0w an old fucked bayonet truly worthy of making a thread

>>33918764
Other might benefit from the advice you acoustic nigger.

>>33918764
i didn't find active thread about cleaning rust from old weapons, so why not?

so i did a mistake of cleaning it indoors, now the room smells like mechanical oil. My hands are dirty from the rust and oil and doesn't wash off with soap...

Anyway the wool and spirit method is really good the thinner layer of rust came off right away but after 10 min of cleaning doesn't seem to do much and the thicker layer doesn't change

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>>33919054
before cleaning the blade

p.s. the picture was taken infront of a mirror

File: after 10 min.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

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>>33919054
after cleaning you can even see the serial number

>>33919054
Dawn dish soap is anti-oil ordnance.

File: the handle.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

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picture of the handle if anyone interested....

>>33919088
i meant was washing my hands with the soap :D

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>>33918604

>what is an entrenching tool, but a dirt spatula?

>>33919132
you can use bayonet as a dagger and common people (who are not into weapons) don't know the difference between bayonet and dagger, so not the best comparison, but i can see your point...

>>33918507
I use vinegar baths for old axes I restore, but I wouldn't recommend it for a sensitive item such as that dagger. Unless you really wrap up the handle good.

>>33918771
>acoustic nigger
kek, even if unintentional, that still made my day

>>33918507


How To Have Autism:


The Thread.

>>33919710
>everythreadonk.jpg
What did you expect from an Indonesian shadow puppet theater board?

>>33919686
Vinegar will remove bluing. It's not something to be used here.

>>33919710
>Autism: The Post

Now in image boards near you!

>>33919781
>Vinegar will remove bluing. It's not something to be used here

Bluing and browning on firearms and swords is chemically similar to rust. Any chemical that attacks rust will also attack it. The most difficult items to conserve are those with blue and gilt decoration.

An old bayonet is the perfect thing to first try cleaning up. In 10 years you will be bringing 200 year old flintlocks and swords back from the dead. However never try and make them 'new' and add on additional materials, modern materials, sharpen etc. or you destroy any antique value utterly. It is always OK to halt active rust though.

Other materials that may be used on more delicate items are chalk based dusts and crèmes for polishing as the will not wear down delicate surfaces. Vinegar will remove tarnish that identifies the item as authentic as will most chemical rust removers along with blueing and browning. Unless the item is of no archaeological value and has lost integrity do not use electrolysis as you are effecting the material that the item is made of at a fundamental level. It is a nuclear option.

>>33919697
It was a mistype from another /k anon of "autistic nigger" but I like and use it. Then again I use "nigger" for those of dim wit or character of all races and "fag" instead of "douchebag".

>>33920003
I usually reserve nigger for the worst cases of shitdickery. Fag is perfect for most people, though, because a lot of people are really annoying fucking fags.

>>33919901
So to be crystal here, electrolysis does not only flake and separate rust from ferrous metal? It affects good steel?

>>33919710
and why is that?
because at this point everyone on 4chan has autism...

>>33919901
Yeah, get rid of active rust. Let the patina be.

And NO power tools.

>>33920110
>So to be crystal here, electrolysis does not only flake and separate rust from ferrous metal? It affects good steel?

It will certainly list any gilding but generally will destroy patina and introduce non original material

While the part to be derusted is utilized as `a cathode, in addition to the mechanical action due to the formation of hydrogen on the surface of the metal (which mechanical action tends to detach the largest particles of oxide), the strongly adhering iron oxides may be reduced by the action of nascent hydrogen in accordance with the formula FezOs-l-Gl-IzZFe--HQO so that metal is deposited on the part which adds itself to the anode-cathode transfer, thereby partly replacing the metal lost through oxidation.

https://www.google.com/patents/US2615840

>>33919108
Use Gojo, buddy.