What to do with this old S&W

File: image.jpg (2MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4032x3024px

The serial puts it's production year around 1920-1921, and it looks every year of it's age.

polish off the rest of the nickel, make sure you clean it up, and duracoating it isn't a bad way to go with it.

>>33826582
You could get it sand blasted and reblued. Yes dura coat is sac relig. It's worth 200 bucks if you want to have it working again, it's not like 200$ is that much compared to a new revolver. Post pics if you end up refinishing it

>>33826582
Skip duracoat, shit rubs off, cerakote it in Socom blue, or get it blued proper. Strip the nickel remnants first, obviously.

Or you could get it cerakoted in a faux parkerized or anodized finish if you like an industrial look, could make an alright backup in your glovebox or toolbox.

>>33826620
Young enough for smokeless then, you could handload light wadcutters for some fun target shooting.

>>33826647
True, $200 is pretty cheap for a potentially decent revolver.

>>33826715
The gun itself was free, and the parts don't even total to $75. I considered cerakote, but I really do prefer the look of the high gloss blue duracoat. Is it really that horrible? Or is that just during the month long curing process?

I'll buy it for $50

Nickle finish is nice, but S&W will still reblue it. If you source the parts you might be able to have S&W rebuild it for you and do it up proper.

If it was a free gun, than sub 300$ would be worth having a like new 90 something year old gun.

>>33826582
fix with new parts, retime, strip nickel, blue

File: ff.jpg (265KB, 1280x720px) Image search: [Google]

265KB, 1280x720px

Duracoat it in OD and replace the grips with a dark wood.

Get in contact with S&W and they might be able to re blue it properly

>>33827511
>dark wood
>not magpul brand custom polymer grips

File: A1F-6C9PzRL._SY355_.jpg (51KB, 351x355px) Image search: [Google]

51KB, 351x355px

>>33826582
There's not a lot of guns I would put to the wheel. But that fucker there, I would put to the wheel.

After that I would polish to 1500 grit with sandpaper and oil, and then either cold blue the fucker with G96 Creme Blue, or rust blue it.

Hell, you could even just leave the metal in the white, keep it rubbed with gun oil, and let nature take care of the finishing for you.

Can't really go wrong I suppose... unless you rattle-canned it with some fucking dipshit epoxy paint like Durafaggot shit or whatever. That crap is so horrid.

>duracoat
>ceracoat

These are cancer. Pay to have the gun fixed and then refinished in hot blue by a competent gunsmith.

>>33826985
>cerakote
>duracoat

You can use these things on that gun I suppose. In the same way you can suck dick and then still try to call yourself a man. I mean, no one will respect it, but you can lie to yourself just like anyone.

Or you could not be a fag... your call.

Honestly if it doesn't have any historical or sentimental value to it and its a project gun I'd just blue it in my garage
Might as well and some folks have some really decent results givien their monetary commitment to the project

cerakote it midnight blue, its the closest you can get to actual blued finish, without paying someone to fire up their blue tanks. dura- products are meh and cerakote is the better of the two if applied properly.

Back in the day, nickeled firearms were the equivalent of stainless-steel firearms today-- a low-maintenance way to keep a firearm from becoming a handful of rust in the care of someone who either didn't have the time or give-a-fuck to take care of it properly.

But guess what? That same person who needed a nickel finish to keep his gun from dissolving into flakes of red powder from his lack of maintenance? They also never cleaned the bore, chambers, nor ever had the sideplate off to clean or lube the internals.

I'll bet OP's bore is pitted to hell, and the insides look like a junkyard.

>>33829959
Actually, looking at the peeling on that nickel makes me wonder if the previous owner was one of those morons who slathered the finish on his gun in Hoppe's 9 every time he cleaned it despite the product itself specifically telling you not to do that. I can't tell you how many dumb fudds I've seen insist that it will do no harm to a nickel finish, only for their gun to turn yellow and start looking like it's having a bad case of sunburn.

>>33830048
Holy fuck, I didn't even think of that.
Hell yeah man, I think you're on to something there. In fact, I was looking at both those pics thinking "How in the hell did NEARLY ALL that nickel finish come off?"

Hoppe's 9 would explain it neatly. That would also probably mean the bore isn't pitted to shit as I suspected, so hey, win-win!

Thanks for all the advice guys, I think I'm going to start setting aside the money to get it refinished properly in nickel. Should I get the trigger and hammer fire-blued too?
>>33830048
Holy shit I think you're right. there's some yellow discoloration behind the yoke and on the back of the cylinder.
>>33830112
You're also right, the bore has some shallow pitting but just about a quarter inch from the muzzle.

>>33830378
>I think I'm going to start setting aside the money to get it refinished properly in nickel. Should I get the trigger and hammer fire-blued too?

They would originally have been color case hardened I think. If you want it to look authentic, go with that. Also, you should try and see if Smith and Wesson will refinish the gun for you. You will of course have to pay, but all of the refinishing work I've seen from the factory today has been very good.

>>33829823

Loser.

>>33826582
Send it to robar

>>33830658
I was going to give them a call and ask if they work on legacy models.
>>33830681
I'll keep them in mind if S&W isn't an option.