Mosin Nagant Sticky Bolt

>>33488132
>Mosin Nagant Sticky Bolt
That's a feature.

>>33488132
I had really bad sticky bolt the first time I shot mine, and then no problems since. I think my issue was some cosmoline left over in the receiver that would mix with the heated lacquer coated steel casings and they'd get stuck.

Check the coatings if you use lacquer.

>>33488285
I've tried both, neither makes a difference. I've scrubbed, boiled, wiped, etc the entire rifle. There's not a speck of cosmoline left anywhere, I'm 100% sure of that

Just dont lock the bolt when chambering a round. The recoil will push the bolt back. My nugget was the same way, but after 15ish rounds the bolt really loosened up.

>>33488316
That sounds like a terrible idea

>>33488132
Just keep shooting it to loosen it up or do what everyone else did and find a brick to slam it open.

Grab the rifle by the muzzle. Plant firmly on ground. Use your boot to open it. That's how a concript 70 years ago did it, that's how it's meant to be done.

OP before you break your rifle doing something dumb consider taking it to a gunsmith, they might can find an issue you overlooked and if any fine-tuning needs to be done it might be better to let them work on it (unless you're confident you can do more work on it than you already have without fucking something up.

>>33488132
>>33488309
the cosmoline in the chamber is very hard, like a lacquer, and almost impossible to see. you need to scrub the chamber with a bunch of solvent and copper brush with a drill

what type of ammo are you using?

>>33488813
post the brand or surplus country of ammo you are using, with a pic if possible. this is a common problem with czech light ball surplus due to the lacquer they use and steel case

>>33488822
>post the brand or surplus country of ammo you are using, with a pic if possible.

Herter's Select Grade brass case 180 gr SP, Czech Republic

>>33488655
I've considered this honestly. I love my Mosin and while the gunsmithing fees probably wouldn't be worth it on a stupid $250 rifle, I'll probably do it.

Problem is, I live in fuckin' Kansas and have no competent gunsmiths near me that have ever probably done Mosin work

>>33488927
what does your chamber look like?

>>33488909
you said it works fine on brass case, that is no help. post the ammo that makes it STICK. or are you saying it sticks 30% of the time on brass too?

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>>33488132
Is it normal for a Mosin to be tough to turn the bolt down while closing the bolt to load it?

I'm imagining it's just the extractor jumping over the rim, but this is my first Mosin.

Pic related

>>33488132
Does your bolt match?

>>33489486

Say, does the base ends of your shells seem extra polished after shooting? The last quarter inch or so?

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>>33489641
Doesn't look like it, and no wear on my dummy rounds either

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>>33489486
>I'm imagining it's just the extractor jumping over the rim, but this is my first Mosin.
That's what it is.

>>33489710

Dummy rounds don't actually go boom, do they? Then not very useful.

I was looking for shit that happens some times with reloading; the shell gets slightly malformed and then it gets hard to shove in the last few millimeters. That forcing makes the end of the shell look shiny.

>>33489268
It sticks 30% on brass, 100% on steel. The steel case I tried was just some old shit Tula. At work at the moment, don't know the bullet weight on the Tula

Chamber looks fine far as I can tell. I took the extracted Tula case out of the chamber and there are long, albeit light gouges in the steel case all down the side which would leave me to believe there's a small bur in the chamber

>>33489748
Is there a way to lighten it up at all? Will it loosen up a little naturally over time, or is there something I can do to help soften it out a bit?

>>33489522
Yes, it's an all matching rifle.

Chamber an unfired steel case round and see if:
-it is hard to extract it (without firing it)
-case overall length (including bullet) changes

I had a similar problem with my mosin, even after cleaning the utter crap out of it. The way I fixed it:
Step 1: Go to range
Step 2: Fire 20-25 rounds through gun cycling however possible as fast as possible (the goal is to heat up the gun and chamber)
Step 3: Take patch/rag and clean the ever loving hell out of the chamber
Step 4: Fire another 10-15 rounds as fast as possible
Step 5: clean again
Step 6: repeat from step 4 till bolt cycles smoothly

I went through about 120 rounds before my bolt would cycle smoothly. Make sure when you clean to get locking recesses as well.

>>33489486
it also pushes the interrupter on closing, which has to push against the pressure of the interrupter spring and the spring from the loaded mag. so yes its normal

>>33490515
this is good advice. cosmoline flows easily in heat, if even the tiniest amount seeps into your chamber you will get sticky bolt

>>33490398
there could be a slight bur in the chamber, definitely a possibility. if you have light scratches on your brass this will also be a tell tale sign

>>33490443
try this guys advice too, this is a good idea. could be that batch you are shooting is slightly out of spec enough that it doesnt work in your gun. try another brand of steel case ammo and see what happens

>>33490443
It has a tiny issue closing the bolt over the round like 30% of the time, but unfired steel extracts smooth as butter.

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These are pics of the fired steel case. Notice the light scratches in the steel.

>>33491529
that actually isnt too light of a scratch, that looks pretty significant. pull out your brass really slow next time you shoot and figure out what side of the chamber that is coming from, then take a look inside. it looks to start more than halfway up the chamber, so you probably wont be able to see it that easily but at least it will give you a location on where to smooth out

>>33491565
I'm heading to the range this coming up weekend to teach my wife how to shoot her new P225-A1 proficiently. I'll make ure to keep an eye out, but there's no easy way to smooth out a specific spot in the chamber, is there?

Only way I'm aware of is a 20 GA copper bore brush, and that hits everything. It'd be tough to get really fine steel wool or fine grit sandpaper deep into the chamber.

>buy hex Nugget
>has a bit of sticky bolt
>buy Ballistol
>disassemble bolt, coat it in Ballistol
>wipe down the pieces later, reassemble bolt
>never have sticky bolt again

I must have lucked out.

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>Have 1929 Hex 91/30
>Sticky bolt after firing round
>Did every thing recommended and listed
>Polished bolt, drill brushed bore, full de-cosmoline
>Still tough to open
>FINALLY come across a bit of info indicating that the firing pin spring may be what is causing the high resistance after firing
>Skeptical but makes sense and willing to try anything at this point
>Do as recommended cutting one coil, testing, the problem lessened, then two, better yet
>Go out and test rifle to make sure there is enough spring force to reliably set off hardened military primers
>Problem solved; no more hard to open bolt
>Recommend buying a replacement spring to mess with before trying this

Mosins were all stripped down and taken apart down to the screws after ww2 by the millions, parts fitting and the original parts of each individual rifle were thrown into piles and mixed to make working rifles.

Your gun has parts from several dozen other rifles all which were assembled into a rifle, and stamped with new serial numbers.

this is why the action on mosins are shitty and gritty as hell usually.

I sticky bolt like 33 percent. 43 izzy rearsenaled shooting yugo surplus made from soviet ww2 surplus.