Stock Repair

If you don'the want to get too involved wood putty should work for you.

Save up the dust when you sand it and mix it with wood glue, fill the holes up with it and let it harden, then re-sand the area so that it looks flush, I've done this with a table and a chair and it came out alright.

I'm sure you can find a decent turotial on youtube on how to to it properly.

If i were you i wouldn't worry about getting that gouge out entirely, it's a battle scar dude. Chicks dig scars.

Give the stock a thorough cleaning, get all that cosmo off, sand the whole thing with 100 grit sand paper until you're satisfied, then again with 220 to smooth it all out a little more. Then use tung oil. Read the instructions on whatever brand you get but it's all the same really, apply a thick coat and wait a little while for it to soak in, apply another coat, ect. Essentially your just trying to reach the woods saturation point.

>>33460202
RIFLE IS FINE
I
F
L
E

I
S

F
I
N
E

Seriously, don't mess with it, bubba. You aren't "refurbing" it, you're just devaluing it and it won't ever look good.

>>33460270
Clear epoxy works better. Sand or rasp some wood dust from an inconspicuous place on the stock. Behind the butt plate or in side the fore arm channel. Mix dust and clear slow set epoxy and fill the holes.

>>33460202
>Take stock off.
>Place stock in rich soil.
>Wait for stock roots to establish and allow stock to heal self.
>Uproot stock before spring frost.
>Enjoy repaired stock.

Steam. Google it. Light scratches and gouges can be raised with steam.

>>33460345
>Steam. Google it. Light scratches and gouges can be raised with steam.

This. If it's a dent, steaming works, if it's a gouge, (missing wood) you'd have to fill it.

>>33460270
>Save up the dust when you sand it and mix it with wood glue


AKA Carpenter's putty. Good choice. You'll need to strip the whole thing to make it blend at all.

Use a VERY light stain. 1:1:1:1 Golden oak:colonial maple:mineral spirits:boiled linseed oil.

Let dry for at least 8 hours.

The area will be noticeable, so to make it blend, you can give it a very very light coat of matte clear lacquer. Then scuff with 400grit or 3M maroon pads. Then Glaze with perfect brown or light walnut, wiping away MOST of the glaze. This should hide the repair in large part.

If needed, you could paint in a couple grain lines before the next coat of glaze. LESS IS MORE.

Spot glaze if you need to.

Clear finish however you want. I prefer "waterlox" which is a phenolic resin in semi-gloss or matte.

Lastly, I wouldn't do a fucking thing to it, except clean thoroughly with Naphtha, and Clear with a special blend of "still oil" and beeswax.

Still oil is made by taking RAW linseed oil, into a clear, uncapped glass bottle. Let sit in a UV exposed window for 7-14 days, heat to 90 degrees, and add 15% beeswax by weight. The wax must be VERY pure and finely ground.

This results in a very natural and authentic looking finish, it will yellow naturally and not take on an unnatural sheen.

It must cure for at least 14 days.

Coat with a very thin layer of Johnsons pastewax. Wax does not build up layers, it isn't supposed to, it does not look super glossy, it's not supposed to. It's supposed to be very 'natural' or 'touchable'.

Or I don't know, just use a two part wood filler stick and spray is gloss black IDGAF.

>>33460379
>If it's a dent

Even if it's a dent, steaming wouldnt do shit for a mark that severe.

I am a conservationist and restoration tech.
Give a picture and description of how you want it to look in the end.

In this case I would either leave it as is with a linseed topcoat, or refinish it to the nines and make it look like Browning made it last week, your choice.

>>33460202
What you're talking about isn't a stock repair, it's a bubbaifcation. The stock is perfectly fine as it sets now. If you have half a brain you'll leave it as such.

>>33461125
How about instead of that I do whatever I want and you go back to sucking cocks, faggot.

>>33460307
see>>33461821

>>33460835
Got any cleaning process suggestions?

>>33460835
>I am a conservationist and restoration tech.

On what, faggot?

>>33462242

Mild detergent. I like Dirtex and Krud Kutter, fairly diluted with very warm water, not hot, but not lukewarm

Odorless Mineral Spirits and Naphtha is the next step up, but could cause hazing, so you'll need to scuff and clear coat if that happens.


Denatured Alcohol is good for buildups of skin oils and dirt, but it removes shellac, so it's a really a tough call

Toluene removes silicone based polishes and is only useful of you are for sure going to refinish due to likelihood of hazing

>>33462481
>>>33460835 (You)
>>I am a conservationist and restoration tech.
>On what, faggot?

Wood artifacts foremost, specializing in finishes. This could include furniture, instruments....coffins recently.

But also tortoise shell, mother of pearl, thermoplastics.

I'm not a metals specialist. I can handle most of the basics, but the metals guy is a fucking wizard, I defer to him

>>33462681

BTW: FUCK paintings techs. Pretentious dickhole fingerers

Hand rubbed English finish or its crap

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>>33461821
>it's muh gun, I'll do what I want!

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>>33464244

>>33462609
>>33460835
>I am a conservationist and restoration tech.
>doesn't tell him how to actually conserve the piece

>>33460307
never listen to anyone who uses the bubba reference....most are no guns,or fudd types . light refinish is fine,especially if you plan to use it a good bit in the outdoors.i use linseed oil on all my wood,use some really fine grit paper like 600 that way youll only take the barest hints of stuff off the wood,but still leave any interesting marks,fill in any marks you dont like,then treat with several coats of linseed,wood will retain all its original looks,and be weather resistant. just retreat with oil every several months.

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>>33464407
This is beyond Bubba'd. Now it's just a straight up affront to the /k/ube.

What would possess a man to fuck up a thousand dollar Nazi marked WWII original Mauser that badly?

>>33464192
yes exactly, so fucktarded he is smart...

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>>33464438
I actually own more guns than probably anyone else in this thread. I also use my guns, but I have half a brain to understand that none of that is necessary, nor is anyone that actually collects guns (AKA the ones with money).

There are pieces of furniture that are over 600 years old, and yet still retain their original finish and yet you feel the need to refinish it ever several months.

>>33464477

>Stevens Double Hump 520 with pistol grip stock

MUH DIK

>>33464477
well yes,especially since that furniture is cleaned and oiled weekly, its ok you tried little fella

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>>33464445
The same type of man that gets one scratch on a piece of wood and is breaking out the sandpaper and refinishing it. They don't ask "should I do this," it's always "how should I do this." And inevitably it never turns out to how they want it, so they do it again. And again. And again. And again. And then they throw it in the back of the closet and buy a Remchester that they wanted to begin with.

Of course these retards justify it by saying it's only an $XXX gun, but every time they do such a thing they're just increasing the price of ones unmolested. The good thing is that these idiots are eventually priced out of the marketplace by their own handywork.

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>>33464510
But furniture isn't oiled weekly. No one that has hundreds of years old furniture goes and messed with the fucking patina of it. Nor do they sand it. THEY DON'T FUCK WITH IT.

You don't understand wood or their finishes, just like the person who made this.

>>33464517
It sounded like OP just wanted to "fix" the wood on his stock, granted that's generally a bad thing to do to old milsurp rifles. He isn't likely to add a bunch of pointless mall ninja "upgrades".

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I bought a Carcano cav rifle for cheap and I was thinking about filling in some thumb sized chunks missing from the buttstock. Should I bother? I think it looks fine

>>33464603

No because the stock itself is worth $100+ these days.

>>33464517
But that's actually an awesome finish.