Air Rifle Scope Adjustment

If it's 1/4" at 100yds then it's 1/8" at 50yds and 1/16" at 25yds.

>>33391952

1/5 the range 1/5 the adjustment?

>>33391952

if the adjustment is 1/4 moa, then every click will move the point of impact 1/4 inch at 100 yards.

If you want to zero for 20 yards, then 1 click will move the point of impact 1/4 x 20/100 = 1/20''.

So if your point of impact is 2 inches away from your point of aim, you need to adjust 40 clicks.


A better question would be, are you shooting with one zero, or two.

>>33391952

You can still hit shit at 100 yards with that. It's not the gun, it's just you that is the problem.

>>33392047
it might be the gun. I have no problem hitting bottle caps at 50m, or a 6mm airsoft pellet at 20m, but i'm shooting a tx200 with a 10x42 hawke sidewinder 1/2 mil-dot scope.

A norconia with a 4x32 duplex (most likely) might be too much of a challenge beyond 30m

>>33392024
so it's basically a lot of clicks until i move it, i thought the scope might be broken, but i just didn't click it enough
thank you

>>33392047
i think it's not powerful enough for that kind of range, still i could be wrong
the muzzle velocity is 170 m/s (557 ft/s)

>>33392087
yeah, it's a 4x32 duplex

>>33392024
and what do you mean by one zero or two?

>>33392158

the pellet trajestory is not a straight line, but parabollic in nature.

You can set your zero so that it "touches" the parabole at the highest point, and for any distance other than your set zero, you will need to hold over (aim higher).

Or, you can set your zero so that your point of aim intersects the parabole, and it will do so at two points. For example, my tx200 has primary zero at 12m, and secondary zero at 25m. For any range between 12 and 25m, i need to aim lower (that airsoft pellet at 20m was a 1/4 mil-dot hold under shot), and for any distance greater than 25m, or closer than 12m, i need to aim higher.

Then again, my tx200 is a .22, not toe .177 preferred by target shooters, so the holdover at 50m is 4 mil dots, which makes range estimate that much more important.

>>33392150

also - keep in mind that every scope has a max range (not range to target, but +/- moa) of adjustment. If you exceed it, the erector tube inside the scope starts "floating", and every shot will send your zero to hell.

That, and springers (unless we're talking really high end ones) produce a lot of vibration. And I do mean, a lot. A spring piston rifle can be harder on the scope, than .375 H&H round because unlike centerfire rifles, air rifles recoil twice.

>170 m/s

is that in .22, or .177 (5.5mm or 4.5mm)? My .22 is around 185 m/s, and that's around 16J with 15.89 grain pellets - that's easily enough to shoot up to 50m, but past that, I run out of mil dots, so aiming is that much more difficult.


As for your rifle - i'd strongly suggest you get a one-piece mount (two piece mounts are for PCP rifles, and high end springers that don't vibrate as much).

I'd also advise against using a variable magnification scope - "zooming in" is a cool novelty, but fixed mag scopes are more resistant to vibration (among other things).

>>33392343
It's a .177 (4.5 mm)
I was on a budget, and this was a bundled package
The rifle, a 2 point mount and the scope
If the riser starts floating, can i put it bacj or is it fucked for good, and how many clicks do average scopes take before this happens?

>>33392530

You can probably dial it back in. It takes half the adjustment range to "go outside". So if your range is 60 moa, that means +/- 30 moa, so trying to adjust 30 moa up will get you past the safe range.

Bundled scopes are usually trash - at 20m, it might not be a bad idea to use the iron sights.

I see it's a 10J (low power, compared to the "standard" 16J, or "magnum" 26J) rifle.

That's fine for plinking cans at 20m, and I wouldn't worry about the scope too much.
A one piece mount might come up to 50% of what you paid for the whole package, but since 11mm mounts are universal, it won't be wasted if you decide to get a better air rifle later on.

>>33392087
I have seen problems with break action piston air rifles where the scope is mounted behind the barrel. The lockup is going to be necessarily different each time, and the scope isn't moving with the barrel, so you're going to get inherent inaccuracy. I do better with irons on that style of airgun, because the irons move with the barrel.

Another issue I've seen with the break action piston airguns is them clipping or deforming the projectile on closing, which also impacts accuracy.

>>33393296

lockup can be an issue, unless you are using a wedge lock rifle like a Walther LGV. And clipping is taken care of by making sure the pellet is properly seated.

>>33393454
>making sure the pellet is properly seated.
I have a Umarex where even if the projectile is properly seated, it will always deform the pellet because the bore face is cut at an angle.

It's a stupid design.

>>33393296
would it help if i pushed the pellet a few millimeters into the barrel?
i remember having a tool for that when i was training for competition shooting some ten years back, and we had break-barrels

also the impact point is fairly constant, low and to left, so i'm gonna try and set up the scope
i bought it mainly for short range plinking in summer afternoons with a couple of friends
thanks for the heads up though

and i would like to thank everyone, especially the people who broke it all down for me, me being a nogunz and all, i've learned a whole lot today
this is why i love you /k/

>>33393506
well, while you're at it, check out american airgunner on youtube, especially the segments with Tom Gaylord (yes, that's his actual name).

Since you'll be using a springer, that double recoil I mentioned earlier can ruin your accuracy if your hold is not proper (PCP rifles are not hold sensitive) - look up "air rifle artillery hold".