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LeMartin
Special thanks and Update on Rifle I am building 2017-03-14 05:53:50 Post No.
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Special thanks and Update on Rifle I am building 2017-03-14 05:53:50 Post No.
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Greetings fellow /k/ommandos.
LeMartin here. I want to give a major thanks to the Anon's who found for me the schematics for the m14 stock, and the receiver.
It has been months since I gave an update on the rifle housing I am designing. I don't want to give too much away but I do have a major update. Before I do that however let me refresh you on the gun I am designing:
I am taking a Springfield M1a/m14 and turning it in to a p90 style bullpup (Feeds from the top ejects out the bottom). I have a few other tricks to make this a special gun actually feasible (I have a way to make P90-esque magazines that can accommodate a tapered bullet unlike the 5.7mm).
Today I have completed the vast majority of the first part I needed, which was to replicate the inner tolerances of an M1a stock. This is the first major hurdle I have to make the gun work. I still need to do some touch ups but PIC RELATED is what I have so far. Everything is 100% accurate on the inside except for one minor area. I didn't model in the bipod slot on the stock and other things like the sling attachments because I plan to make a picatiny rail for this.
The next part I have to attack is the upper cover (which will be the bottom with the trigger and thumbhole/p90 style grips) as well as the ejection port and buttstock.
With that said, I am planning to 3D print this for some rapid prototyping. For this I need a 3D printer. My budget is $300. What 3D printer would you guys recommend for printer gun parts? Preferably one that is 8x8x8 print space, has built in print support software so I don't have bad extrusions for the midair prints, has good print resolution, and is simple enough for a novice to work on. Im new to 3D printer so what kind of plastics/extrusions should I use?
Tl;dr Anon making gun posts update, asks how to 3D print for physical rifle.
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I'm the Anon that made this thread:
https://4archive.org/board/k/thread/31902722
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>>33300102
Probably don't share every detail if you plan on copyrighting this or making money off it
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>>33300125
Im not. I just wanted to give a shout out and thanks to the anons who helped me out.
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>>33300102
I made the NM stock and the receiver in SolidWorks.
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>>33300102
I can't offer any help but congrats on getting to this stage.
Maybe ask /diy/, they have a pretty decent 3D printing general
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>>33300137
I sent you a message from your page on grabcad about it. You never responded -.-
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>>33300102
Did you ever get regular access to an M1A?
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>>33300102
>bullpup
I hope it comes out better than this m1a bullpup
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>>33300184
My bro let me borrow his. I bought a digital caliper so I could confirm all my measurements. There are some minor differences between the m1a and the m14 but I went off the schematics when i could because I wanted as little of my own error introduced in to the model.
I specifically was measuring a Springfiled Armory M1a plastic stock, and use an Igaging 6 inch digital absolute origin caliper.
Absolute Origin calipers are the best to get, so I got that. You can buy one on amazon for about thirty or so bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS
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>>33300137
>>33300164
same here. want to trade some stuff for that receiver? I'm having trouble modelling it
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>>33300102
I'm in the same boat as you man, and let me tell you: You're going to need to dish out more than $300 for a reliable 3d printer. Even then, there isn't too much that you can make for a functional firearm out of ABS or PLA or whatever other plastic
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>>33300491
My question is, why can't he just chisel it out of a piece of wood?
I gotta say, 3D printing is the plebeian's method to prototyping. Either you don't spend enough money and your output looks like shit and isn't representative of the product, or you spent too much money on something you rarely use 'cause you're not a professional at an engineering firm who does this for a living.
My advice is to just pick up a hammer, chisel, and a router and get carving.
Like they do at Holland & Holland.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUXoNUzAyvk
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>>33300229
>Absolute Origin
I've not heard of this brand, is it Chinese made?
Does it actually keep measuring when it's turned off or does the zero vary depending on where you turned it on?
They look shitty and Chinese to me, but I could be wrong.
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>>33300575
Absolute origin is a type of caliper that regardless of where it is on the slide it will not drift by any amount. A lot of cheap calipers will drift if you move them too fast and you have to reset them. This one doesn't have that problem.
Absolute origin isn't a brand. iGaging is.
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>>33300651
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALiafR3nZ90
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>>33300718
sheeeeeit
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>>33300102
Have you considered using that money to rent a superior 3D printer? Or perhaps looking for fellow hobbyists that might let you borrow theirs?
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>>33300106
>>33300125
>>33300131
>>33300207
>>33301138
You have filed for patent right? You need to do it AS SOON AS YOU PUT TOGETHER A WORKING COPY.
The patent office will review your plans and tell you whether or not you can take it to Market period I don't think you're going to have any problem because your idea is very proprietary, but if someone else has done something similar to what you have before you, and your design overlaps with their's too much, you will not be allowed to produce it without first getting a license to use part of the other designers design. Believe me Smith & Wesson found this out really bad with the sigma pistols
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>>33300102
grabcad link?
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>>33300651
My 20 dollar SPI doesn't drift.
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>>33302513
I'm not sure about US patents but generally speaking OP shouldn't disclose anything and already patent his idea. Even if an inventor himself makes his idea public knowledge this can be a reason to deny the patent since by disclosing it, the idea has become public knowledge.
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