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Tank side skirts

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Thread replies: 26
Thread images: 8

Hey /k/

I am currently building a Tiger 2 1:35 scale model and I'm on the fence about it's side skirts, I was thinking of damaging them by heating some parts and then bending them with the dull end of a knife.

But could the tiger 2's side skirts actually bend due to a collision or something? Are there any historical photos you guys have that maybe can leave some evidence or something?

Pic somewhat related; want to base mine on the one in the pic.
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File: Tiger wreck.jpg (188KB, 1100x721px) Image search: [Google]
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They bent all the time. They were pretty thin, you know. Granted, that one is a wreck, but I'm sure a tank would usually have wobbly side skirts after a Campaign.
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>>33174050
Hm.
Were they made from common sheet metal or steel?
Maybe I could make a large dent with a polished metal kind of look
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>>33174050
Thats Tiger I

I think that was actually just fenders on Tiger Is to cut down on dust where it was actually schurzen on Tiger IIs. I've never seen pics of the schurzen on Tiger IIs bent, only missing. Seems like it would be very resistant to bending because its quite small and would be very stiff.
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>>33174176
Is it shurzen on the IIs? They were on the Panthers for AT rifle protection, what did the tiger IIs need skirts for?
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>>33174176
What about battle damage? What if a plate flew off of the bolts from an explosion?
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>>33174199
dunno, I'm scouring pics and haven't come across a single image of it being bent, only missing

my guess is that it would crack if damaged, not bend. So it would either just fall off, or maybe have a big crack in it that would bang around and make a bunch of racket so they would ditch it.

I'm looking at schurzen on PIIIs and IVs and none of that is bent either, only the mesh type for HEAT stuff looks like it gets bent
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>>33174306
>>33174050
>>33174176
So looks like I'm just going to bend the fenders and remove some shurzen plates. And maybe bend the ends of the plates that connected to the missing ones. Going for a battle damaged look, scratches. . . etc.
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File: wp_ss_20170303_0002.png (501KB, 991x700px) Image search: [Google]
wp_ss_20170303_0002.png
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Maybe like this....
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>>33173852
Completely unrelated, but I buy the occasional diorama for my militaria collection. Well made ones go for serious money, good money to be made if you're skilful enough.
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>>33174354

>The steel used on the side track guards of the Tiger B (there's another name for your collection) was 6mm thick. This measurement was taken from the track guards of the 2 Tiger B's at Bovington Tank Museum. As such they are fairly rigid (try and find some metal 6mm thick and you'll understand - you'd be lucky to significantly bend 6mm steel with a sledgehammer) but I imagine they could be damaged when meeting some heavy obstacles, depending on the angle of contact and rigidity of the obstacle. The bolt threads that attached each guard to the hull were 15mm in diameter and the depth/thickness of the attachment lug was 20mm, so there was not a massive amount of thread contact area holding it in place although each guard was attached at 4 points. Many photographs from the time do show individual or multiple guards missing so they did get damaged and removed or even possibly ripped off in the normal course of combat. Don't forget that you have close to 70 metric tons of moving tank and I don't believe the crew cared much about a little light cosmetic damage to the exterior. I don't think they were ever intended to be armour just strong enough to do the job intended. The "Shrivenham" Tiger B at Bovington does have a number of bullet holes in a tight area on one of the track guards so they could be penetrated by small arms fire.
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My advice is that you find some historical photos that depict the sort of damage you'd like to include and then base it off of that.

At least that way you'd be 100% certain that your model is vaguely accurate, and you can back it up with said photos.
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>>33173852


Basically this >>33176710

Seeing the real Jadgtiger at APG a few years back, That tank has one of the side skirts fitted behind the exhaust stacks as a heat shield, and they are pretty thick, small dings and dents from things like rocks, or track debris are pretty rare. From most of the in action pics I've seen the skirts get damaged from enemy fire.

Things like Small arms fire, Artillery fragmentation, and tank AP or HE rounds. These would damage the tinwork, not so much from crew stepping on them, or logs / brushes getting kicked up via the tracks.

For the build I think it would be more realistic to have one or two skirts off, or maybe some with different colors / primer to resemble mix match in field salvage repairs
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>>33173852
>KT side skirts dilemma

The struggle is real desu, I always run into this when I do my own builds as the KT looks awesome either with the all on, all off, or partial

Pic related, I went with the fully skirted version on my model as I can always remove the skirts on a smaller scale build and for this one I was leaning for an intact representation
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File: bombing.jpg (167KB, 1642x861px) Image search: [Google]
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You weren't kidding about the pictures being either one or more plates missing or none of the plates are bent at all.
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since it's a Tiger 2 they would probably break right off instead of bending.
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>>33179383
>those rusty tracks
how long's it been sitting there?
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>>33173852
>Building KT
>with more than 2-3 skirt sheets
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>>33173852
Either show that the whole tank has been used, or make it brand new. Nothing worse than having damaged skirts but clean tracks and everything.
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>>33180810
The tank is RC with metal tracks, so after a few laps around the property the rust paint was only in the crevasses,

It a weathering trick for RC use, in that you over weather the tracks at first then drive the tank, after about 20 min of running the tracks look more presentable like this,

this was done a few years back and since then though I change up my weathering technique and now don't rust tracks anymore.
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>>33174050
>dear diary, today we saw a kitty
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I think they look better with them removed completely.

I started looking at modeling youtubes recently. I used to do that a long time ago and kind of want to channel my inner autism and pick it up again. I forgot how expensive everything is though.

I watched some vid that showed painting tools and cables is incorrect cuz the camo was just sprayed over everything in the field.
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>>33182747
>Painting tools and cables is incorrect cuz the camo was just sprayed over everything in the field.

This is debatable, as it depended on how lazy the crew was, or if the tools were replaced / worn.

That's part of the fun about modeling though in having such a wide range on options to choose from leaving lots of room small nuances like that on builds

>I forgot how expensive everything is though.

That is true, If you don't have a good airbrush or compressor you will be very limited in what you can make and how good it will look :/, not to mention the variety of hand tools, paint brushes, display cases... etc shit adds up quickly, plus side is that with youtube you can learn from tutorials quickly with less trial and error as opposed to the old days of magazines
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>>33173852
Post build pics
You should go to /toy/ it has a scale modelling general
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>>33182237
makes more sense.
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File: image.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]
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>>33173852
Hey OP, im thinking of buying a heng long panzer III metal gear/track version so I can drive it around pic related, could the sand fuck the whole thing up? Also, how should I paint over the metal tracks? Im thinking flex seal should do it
Thread posts: 26
Thread images: 8


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