Just bought a yugo sks. It's absolutely drenched in cosmoline.

>>32710419
>I trust the guys on this board

Then I sincerely hope you aren't too attached to your rifle.

>>32710448
Not everyone is a dumb memester like yourself friendo

>>32710419
Put the whole rifle in the oven at 450 for six hours

Mineral spirits in bucket for metal part.

Heat up the wood.

Wait for summer leave on car outside wipe as oil come from pores of wood and keep rewipe until gone.

No personal experience take off cosmoline from wood in winter no advice.

Make wood hot by shoot cartridge.

completely soak metal parts in mineral spirits

give the stock a light rubdone with mineral spirits

then put it in the oven on the lowest temp possible and wipe away the cosmoline periodically until its mostly gone

put it on the barbeque at low heat


warning: not the wood part

warning: this will probably fuck your barbeque up

Don't bother trying to get all the cosmoline out of the wood on the first go. Shoot it for a while cleaning it off the metal and watch the cosmo just sweat right out. Keep a bunch of paper towels with you.

I put all the detachable metal parts in simmering water to melt out the cosmo. Just don't go longer than necessary. This worked great to remove the bulk of the cosmo, then wipe it down with paint thinner to get them totally clean. Immersed the trigger group and magazine in gasoline afterward to get the last bits out of hard to reach areas.

Used paint thinner and paper towels/Q-tips to clean everything else, including the stock

NB: The bolt/firing pin needs to be spotless to reduce the risk of slamfires

>>32710474

Microwave or convection?

I used mineral spirits like others in this thread said. I think you're supposed to put the stock in the oven, but I just shot the cosmoline out. I've heard brake cleaner works well but will ruin the stock if you get it on it.

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>>32710419
Paint/Varnish remover instantly cuts it off the metal bits.

hang the wood by a coat hanger outside in the summer with news paper below to catch the run off


i live in las vegas so the heat helps

wipe it down alot as over time more comes out of the wood

>>32710474
>at 450
Cosmoline melts at like 150 max. You're melting it out, not cooking it.

>>32710474
+1 works every time.

I once read about a method involving kerosene. Was that a meme an attempt to kill me?

>>32710474
Please do not listen to this anon!! Cosmoline has a flashpoint of 365°F so probably not a great idea unless you want to burn your house down, melting point is 125 °F

>>32710419
I'd be less worried about the cosmoline and more worried about cutting up your hands from shooting it

>>32714133
>sharpening the back of your bayonet
>having a sharp bayonet in general

>>32710419
Dawn dish soap and s toothbrush work wonders in smaller, more detailed areas. I did it with my Mosin.

Cosmoline is oil. If dawn is good enough for oil spill penguins then it's good enough for Slav guns.

>>32710419
Pee on it

>>32714176
You see, Sergei, when entire gun is blade something something

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This is my Yugo SKS, an M59/66 like yours.

Recommended items:
2-3 gallons of odorless mineral spirits
1 rubber mallet
An Internet connection to YouTube for a disassembly video
2 bottles of Hoppes lubricating oil, or your oil of choice

I'd highly recommend taking it apart down to the metal components, down to the trigger assembly (but that's a bitch to disassemble, so treat that like one piece).

If your bore is soaked in cosmoline as well (sorry if that's true), take the entire barreled action and dip it into a wide cut of PVC pipe filled with mineral spirits. Take a shallow tub of mineral spirits and dump the rest of the parts into that.

When I say metal parts should be put into the mineral spirits tub, that also includes the entire bolt and bolt carrier. The bolt will likely have a risk of slamfire until it's cleaned inside-out, and doing this is as simple as soaking it in mineral spirits and using compressed air (or an air compressor machine) to dry it out.

Once it's all soaked and you've cleaned the cosmoline off of everything to your satisfaction, dry all of the parts. Then lube everything inside-out with your oil of choice (I use cheap Hoppes oil, works just fine). Once the stock is clean, you can just put everything back together. I had to use a rubber mallet to whack the trigger assembly back into my stock, so keep an eye on that- it's a bitch to get in but a rubber mallet shouldn't do much harm if any.

As for cleaning the stock, you can use a heat gun or a really, really hot hairdryer to get the cosmoline off. Just keep wiping it with disposable rags or paper towels (I prefer the rags since they leave fewer particles behind, but paper towels are a lot cheaper and more environmentally-friendly to use as fodder) until it's cleaned to your satisfaction. Yugo SKS's have a drier finish, so just focus on keeping that heat high enough to get the cosmoline out but low enough to not hurt the finish.

Enjoy! :)

>>32714276
Oh, for recommended items:

2-3 gallons of odorless mineral spirits
1 rubber mallet
An Internet connection to YouTube for a disassembly video
2 bottles of Hoppes lubricating oil, or your oil of choice
A heat gun or very strong hair dryer
Lots and lots of disposable rags and/or paper towels


Make sure your bolt is well-lubed. A bunch of retards were spreading misinformation that an SKS "runs dry". This is absolutely not true, and you should lube all parts, and double-lube all moving parts. Metal on metal contact is always bad. You may see shiny/neon metal flaking in the receiver near the recoil spring/bolt carrier after shooting it for the first time, even if it's lubed- this is fine, your gun needs to break in, and you'll break it in over time as you shoot it more and lube it. You'll likely see it fire and fail to feed a bunch when starting out, just give the action a pull and let it rack back in.

>>32714300
AND LUBE YOUR GAS PISTON AND STUFF!!!

>>32714276
>>32714300
Not OP, but thank you for the write up.

>>32714322
Yep! :]

>>32714276
I recommend this guy's advice. Used that method for a nugget.

>>32714307
Also CLEAN YOUR GAS CHAMBER.

>>32714176
Bayonets are supposed to be sharp though?

>>32714370
Yeah, I used this method for my M39 as well. My bolt face got a bit corroded with micro-pits because I used corrosive though. ;_;

And yeah clean the gas chamber!

>>32714380
No, bayonets are supposed to be *pointy*. You drive them into soft tissue with great force and make a huge rip that doesn't heal. If they're sharp, it goes in more smoothly and causes less injury.

Bayonets are not at all meant to be sharpened. Pls don't do this

>>32714463
Also pls don't do this because

1) You will likely never use the bayonet
2) As such, you will cause injury to yourself shifting it around for cleaning purposes.

>>32714380
No. They quickly learned that while a sharp bayonet sounds like a good idea, they tend to cut into bone and get stuck, in which case you had better have a backup weapon while you struggle to get your primary out of the poor soul you just stabbed.