gunsmiths

>>32077915
use a few drops of penetrating oil and try and press (with a drill press, shouldn't need much more) the bit out the way it came.

if it binds, just forget about it. perhaps get a new barrel if that's cost effective

Take it to a shop with an EDM.
Pound it back down the barrel with a close fitting brass rod.
Pour a bunch of mercury into the barrel and let it dissolve the lead.

>>32077915
this is probably a horrible idea but just fire it again using a blank.

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not the most familiar with firearm repair. but the chamber doesnt come out so im assuming the squib is in between the chamber and the barrel. so the only way would be to pull out the bit then press the round back into the casing right?

is there a bulge in the barrel? if so, forget about it
>>32077952
also, your rifling is probably fucked so don't worry about that
>>32077969
that's a kaboom

>>32077963
>Pour a bunch of mercury into the barrel and let it dissolve the lead.
do this, or just heat the barrel past the melting point of lead, it shouldn't get hot enough to hurt the temper.

>>32077915
a simple option is to heat the barrel with a blow torch while pound it out with a hammer.

>>32077989
use some needlenose pliers and grip the screwbit near the edge and try to twist it CCW to have it unscrew itself. The crown is fucked, so you gonna have to fix that later.

How does an idiot snap off a HSS drillbit trying to drill out softass lead?

>>32078027
but what about the broken drill bit

>>32078041
my dad got it from a native in alaska back in the 80's

so... thems the idiots

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>>32077969

>>32078043
With the lead melted out the drill bit will just plop out with it.

>>32078114
that actually sounds like it would legit work. although thinking about it i think theres a live round in the chamber thats "on deck" or whatever you wanna call it. wouldnt that risk popping the round if it got too hot?

>>32078150
What is stopping you from removing any live cartridges?
They shou have been removed when the squib first occurred.

>>32078174
revolver, and i cannot access the chamber. i believe the squib barely even left the casing and its in between the chamber and barrel

>>32078150
unload it....

i'd hit use a propane torch aimed at the drill bit, the most heat will just hit the lead rather than having to have to conduct through the barrel.

>>32078150
yes. stay away from heat until you can unload it properly

>>32078150
>>>32078150
use a very hot soldering iron to touch the bit and melt the lead

>>32078187
sorry i should be saying that the cylinder doesnt open since the bullet is between the chamber and the barrel

>>32078187
can you disassemble it? i'm not that familiar with that model smith. if it's that close to the cylinder you should be able to tap it back down with a brass rod. the timing is probably fucked for it to do that in the first place.

Don't use heat if there are live rounds, pound it out with a brass rod after soaking it in oil or try the mercury thing.

I've pounded squibs out before, it's hard but very doable. The big trick to to make sure to have the gun locked in a vice or whatever very tight so it doesn't move when you hit it. otherwise it takes a lot of energy out of the blow.

>>32078241
couldnt it happen if theres barely any powder in the round? causing it to just kind of pop with no real power to go anywhere

>>32078187
If it's that close, you may just want to try pushing the round back into the chamber with a brass rod. Once it's there, you should be able to open the cylinder.

I have had three squibs in my life. Two out of the three where bad primers (I bought a few boxes of hornady 7.7 ammo that was recalled after I shot 90% of it) and one was no powder (some cheap commercial .223) Every time all it took was a couple good raps with a hammer and the bullet was dislodged from the rifling and I was in the clear.

>>32078259
but the problem with that is that there is a broken drill bit stuck in the barrel of the gun. so i cant really push the drill bit towards the casing

>>32078106
>>32078003
after all I did say it was a horrible idea.

Wait, that pic kind of sucks.

Is the drillbit in the side of the barrel?

Get a new barrel or cut it down.

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>>32077989
If you like that gun, it's pretty, what I would personally do, is send it off through Gander Mountain, if you have a Gander Mountain nearby and have them do a nice polish and bluing job on it, as well as removing the squib.

I had them redo this 1897 for me, cost a 2 or 3 hundred bucks but it was worth it. You'd want to inspect everything else though, no hammer fall off, good cylinder lock up, bore not ruined by a drill bit etc..

>>32078270
Is the bit extending into the chamber? If it is only a little, you may be able to free the cylinder to open if you can knock the whole bullet/bit combo into the cylinder (even with a spent brass casing in the chamber).
Once you have the cylinder open it, you have a hollow tube to deal with.

>>32078381
they do that? I have an fn 1910 bubba chromed at some point that I'd like to have stripped and blued.

>>32078270
is the drill bit contacting any portion of the barrel? if not it won't hurt anything to tap the whole mess with a brass rod.

>>32078381
well it sounds like theres a chance this gun may have a chance to still live. so i will bring it to a gunsmith tomorrow and see how much it might cost to dig all this junk out

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>>32078409

http://www.gandermountain.com/gunsmith/index.shtml

It was about a 6 week turn around time but I was impressed with the job they did.
The gun had surface rust, non-pitting though, all over it. It was just like an ugly orangish patina, I'll see if I still have a pic.

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>>32078453
Whole surface was like this, should also mention I redid the wood and the rubbed oil hadn't fully cured yet, the stock looks better now, less shiny. It belonged to an old farmer who had screwed a block of wood into the back of the stock. So I stripped it down and ordered an authentic looking reproduction, shaved it down to fit, fixed some dents and stuff.

>>32077915
That heat idea people have May work. If you're up for fiddly work, maybe two insulated copper wires on the drill bit, then attach to a 9 or 6 volt battery. Should heat up bit enough to soften the lead at least. Less transferred heat to the rest of the gun, as well.

>>32077915
can you get the barrel to where you can work on it?

>>32078041
>How does an idiot snap off a HSS drillbit trying to drill out softass lead?

It's grabby like copper, presumably.

>>32078027
>>32078027

Was my first thought, too. Until I read >>32077989
which brings up the possibility of live rounds still being in the cylinder.

I'm thinking it's a job for a gunsmith.

>>32078027

Lead melts too high.

It'll ruin the temper.

It'd be like laying the gun of a bed of hot coals.