Mausers

Depends on which caliber you want and how much you want to shoot it

>>31900283
When I asked a while ago I was told that the german 98k is the epitome of mausers, but the swedish have some real nice high quality ones.

You could buy a new afrika hunting mauser, the m98, but those cost +10k.

Yugos are still like $300 and shoot 8mm Mauser. The only thing is that some of the parts aren't compatible with other Mausers. But, if you want a starting rifle I don't see any issues with a Yugo Mauser. They're heavier than others but are just as good and accurate, reliable, and nice. 8mm is still somewhat plentiful and cheap if you go with bulk surplus. I'd vote Yugo simply because the price, but I can't imagine you'd be going wrong with any Mauser you find.

>>31900312
I'm in canada, so Yugo's are $550-650, Russian Captures are $650 and up. Swede's are $400-$550
Czech's are in the same range and Argentinean are same as RC

>>31900380
A Vz24 would be a good shooter.
Very well made, 8mm.

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>>31900283
>which is the best.
Pre-WW1 German-made are the best as far as fit and finish are concerned. However, if you want a good shooter any Yugo or Czech-made 8x57mm rifle will more than serve your purpose, while also sharing the most commonly-available Mauser ammunition (8x57mmIS AKA 8mm Mauser AKA 7.92x57mm). Yugoslavian ones are nice because they were extensively rebuilt and refurbished after WW2 and well-maintained in storage, and they also made many all-new M48 rifles after the war which saw very little use.

Swedish 6.5x55mm rifles are also very nice shooters, but they're not as cheap as they used to be and ammo is somewhat harder to come by than 8x57mm.

>>31900437
Why pre ww1?
>>31900380
Russian captures? Like 98ks? Also in canada and im curious on where they are selling.

>>31900283
P14 or M1917.

>>31900437
>most commonly-available Mauser ammunition
If he's after a Mauser with common ammo his best bet would be an Israeli Mauser in 7.62 NATO.

>>31900453
P&S Guns and Militaria $695, you need to order by cheque. Bullseye london are around $850. You can also find them on the EE at CGN

>>31900492
Cool, what quality btw? All same serials and such? Heard that was important. Do they also sell the stripper clips or nah. How aboot peripherals like the stabby rod

>>31900605
It's a mixed barrel, considering the Russians haphazardly reassembled and refinished them. Matching serials isn't extremely important, unless collecting or investing. If you want all matching serials and parts expect to pay a lot more.

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>>31900659
Alright thanks. Wonder why they took them apart... It does kinda tick the ocd a little, maybe ill scour for a non russian raped gun. I assume the websites would say if the factory numbers are the same?
Im a bit new to the gun scene, mind running me through some terms? Pic related. I guess a mauser autonomy img would also help

>Machined middle and front band, and triggerguard
Why is this notable?

>Turned down bolt
?

> Flat buttplate
Anything major about that beside an ergonomic shape? Any way to change that?

>No cleaning rod
Probably can buy one elsewhare right?

> Front sight hood
What is? And As compared too...

>Swastikas are intact vs pinned
Whats the difference?

>Russian stamped
They mean their own serial right?

>Bore pitting
Shouldn't be too bad right?

>Electro penciled to fit receiver
Whats that about? Is it a big deal?

>Good to VG condition
That some kind of QC?

Thanks for tolerating me

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>>31900737
>Wonder why they took them apart
Because it was faster to strip every gun of its components, broken or not, and rebuild it with components that had already been checked over and refinished. As opposed to fixing each individual rifle with only what parts it might need. Russian armorers were not gunsmiths; they were an assembly line.
>Why is this notable?
Milled parts were gradually replaced with stamped components as the war went on. After 1944 all barrel bands were stamped/welded sheet metal.
>Turned down bolt
As opposed to a straight bolt handle like on a Gewehr 98.
>Anything major about that beside an ergonomic shape?
Flat buttplate means earlier production; it was replaced by the cupped buttplate (which surrounds the end of the buttstock) in 1940.
>Probably can buy one elsewhare right?
Yes. Reproductions can be had.
>What is? And As compared too...
Another feature denoting era of production. Was introduced on the Kar.98k in 1939.
>Whats the difference?
Sometime the Russians took an awl, punch, or grinder/file and defaced the swastikas on the Reichsadler firing proof on the left side of the receiver ring. Sometimes they also removed the WaffenAmt inspector's proofs with their little eagles. There was no standard practice for this.
>They mean their own serial right?
Russians stamped an "X" on the receiver ring of rifles they captured. It's supposed to be two crossed rifles, but usually it is just an "X". The Russians usually didn't stamp a new serial number on the rifle but used its original.
>Bore pitting
>Shouldn't be too bad right?
Impossible to tell without pictures.
>Electro penciled to fit receiver
>Whats that about? Is it a big deal?
When re-building the rifles the Russians usually marked the installed replacement parts with the receiver's serial number using an electro-pencil. Only rarely did they break out the stamps to re-number parts.
>That some kind of QC?
http://www.nramuseum.org/gun-info-research/evaluating-firearms-condition.aspx

>>31900737
The machined bands are compared against stamped ones. Little more durable and nicer finish. You're not going to notice that durability though.

Turn down bolt as opposed to a straight bolt. Makes it a bit more compact and ergonomic.

Most of these are just signs that they're early or mid war models, rather than later war. Functionally it's fine and will shoot. It's mostly for collectors to identify. Except for the bore pitting. That can affect accuracy though how much (if at all) is impossible to tell until you shoot it.

>>31900842
Thanks mang. I assume if its a pinned swastika that means the original was filed down and someone pinned one on?
I'll do some more added research, learn about restoring it more if i can. appreciate the help, good luck on finding one that suits your needs friend

>>31900863
Huh, any way to restore pitting? How would you do an accuracy test?

I was curious about this: my dad has his own carpentry business, would it be possible to build a stock? Just a thought

>>31900880
>I assume if its a pinned swastika that means the original was filed down and someone pinned one on?
No; I assume they meant to write "peened" and got buggered by autocorrect. The symbol is stamped into the metal of the receiver; removing it requires either the removal of some metal or smushing the metal back into the gaps made by the stamp.

>>31900894
You can get a new barrel and stock pretty easily. But you probably won't want to. It's a mass issue infantry rifle, don't expect more than 2 MOA (roughly a 2in group at 100 yards) out of it accuracy wise. It may be a little worse, or may be a little better.

>>31900930
>>31900930
Cool thanks. Mind I ask why you wouldn't want to exchange parts?

Also why would a mass issue rifle have limoted accuracy? Wouldn't they want it to be accurate as well as mass produced? How does one make a gun accurate anyways? Considering a barrel is just a metal tube how can one be bettwr than the other

>>31900900
Oh, so why are peened ones different? Where they peened after removal of the original?

> my Canadian Tire sells Yugo and German Mausers

Be jelly

Speaking of mausers, how's the Turkish surplus ammo? I've heard people say it's perfectly fine for bolt actions, but to never use it in a semi auto. Would it be fine to grab some with I'm using a Yugo mauser?

>>31901009
2-4 MOA is the general standard for accuracy. It means you can hit a man sized target at around 300-600 meters. That was what was expected.

And I wouldn't swap anything out because you'd be dumping money into a rifle that won't likely perform much better, and you'll be changing a historic rifle. Better to just spend that money on something new that can do what you want out of the box.

Besides, most people can't shoot better than the rifles can. So even if you did significantly change the performance ability, you wouldn't personally be able to see such a change (probably).

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>>31901028
>why are peened ones different? Where they peened after removal of the original?
Peening is the act of striking the metal to deface the original mark.
>pic related, the circle the eagle is holding would've contained a swastika, but it has been struck with a punch to make just a plain divot.

>>31901124
Canadian Tire seems like a pretty cool dude sometimes. Can you use those Tire Dollars for guns?

>>31901178
It's fine for bolt guns.

>>31901009
>Also why would a mass issue rifle have limoted accuracy?
because the priority of mass production is getting product out at maximum speed.
lets say 1 guy can make 10 good enough rifles or he can make 1 perfect rifle in the same amount of time.
you want the 10 rifles not the one perfect rifle that goes to some guy who gets shot in the face and dies instantly anyways.
How does one make a gun accurate anyways? Considering a barrel is just a metal tube how can one be bettwr than the other
Detail work, how well the parts fit together, if the chamber and barrel are concentric to the bore, the rifling, the crown, how much of the stock is touching the rifle and where its touching

>>31901124
I am, where are you?

>>31901235
>Stock touching barrel
Why is this a big deal? I've heard once ri never fire your rifle with the barrel on a surface (ex cover surface or a window sill). Is it the same premise?

I bought a Spanish Mauser with all matching serial numbers, good bore, but fairly beat up stock for $250. Shoots just fine.

And I got it a month ago, so its not from the golden age of milsurp.

>>31901338
Messes with the harmonics of the barrel. Doesn't make much of a difference at a practical level.

>>31901427
Explain the golden age for the kids whi missed it

>>31901338
same premise but there are other factors in play
it depends on where the stock is touching .
if the stock is shit and the action is loose it will throw off consistency during shots since the action will move in the stock.

theres one shot had your hand held here and the next shot had your hand in a different location or one time you had a deathgrip and the other it was resting on your arm. all of these things throw off consistency and repeat ability.

at this point peoples solution is free float everything but free float everything is just one way to achieve the same result. making everything ridged as fuck or only supporting specific places based on barrel harmonics works too. the key is to make everything as same as possible for every shot.

with old guns the stocks are made of wood which swells depending on heat/humidity which means what part of the stock is touching the gun will change

the gun heating up will effect things a cold bore and one with like 20 rounds through it will behave differently.

>>31901338
The stock presses against the barrel in the same way every time and the sights are zeroed accounting for this, whereas resting your barrel on something introduces an unknown variable.

>>31901124
What city

>>31901514
Wow spooky, gunsmithing seems hard