What should I do for my K98 stock?

>>31352608
You can use boiled linseed oil, tung oil, or just do what you want.

>>31352667
Wow, I never thought of doing that.

>>31352608
Cheap lead paint and anime stickers.

>>31352608
Walnut stocks are finished with boiled linseed oil and beech wood with shellac from the factory. I don't know why you just stripped the finish off your K31 because you just killed its re-sale value.

>>31352608
BLO is what faggots use who font know anything about wood. Its not waterproof, its cheap, it gets cloudy when wet. If you put it on raw wood your a faggot. If you have literally a month to use tung oil go for it, it can take week(s) plural in between coats, but its superb and will waterproof the wood. Personally, a spray coat or 2 of gloss/semi gloss/satin lacquer will be 100 times easeir, can be done in an afternoon and will last longer than you will. and if you dont like it or decide to stain it, strip it off with lacquer thinner, no it wont hurt the wood, and do whatever you want. BLO is what you use to touch up interior wooden furniture you cant be bothered to deal with.

>>31352749
Oh my god, I read that as K31, not K98 holy shit.
Sorry.
Use boiled linseed oil. Real tung oil is not that great at protection and doesn't add much color.

>>31352758
What are you tlaking about retard, tung oil has been in use since like the 8th century to waterproof chinese sailing ships. Christ

>>31352753
Linseed oil has been used in various things for centuries because it is waterproof.
It is the standard oil to use for any European military rifle.

>>31352802
Yeah linseed oil and boiled linseed oil are 2 completely different things retard. Google much?

I would research whatever the GNATSIES did to their stocks and then do that or as close to it as possible.

>>31352753
I use raw linseed on my Lee Enfield's because that's historically correct and I'm not a bubba faggot. I have also shot them in torrential rain all day long and had no issues, I have never seen it get cloudy when wet. The only finishe I have seen do that is shitty Birchwood Casey stock wax. Yes linseed is not the best, yes it's only just water resistant, but it can look good and if you're not impatient then starting from scratch with a linseed finish can be nice. I typically leave a week to dry in between coats and I mix the first 3 or 4 with pure turpentine, I know back the finish with 0000 steel wool as I judge it necessary. Been doing it this was the better part of a decade and never had any stocks warp on me, crack or even have the finish damaged by water. Boiled linseed has modern dryers in it, it looks and feels ugly whatever you do with it.
>Personally, a spray coat or 2 of gloss/semi gloss/satin lacquer
This is what bubba faggots do. This is fine new rifles but not milsurp that are aren't already ruined.

>>31352802
Also
>A linseed oil finish is easily repaired, but it provides no significant barrier against scratching. Only wax finishes are less protective. Liquid water penetrates a linseed oil finish in mere minutes, and water vapour bypasses it almost completely.

research your shit before signposting faggot

>>31352809
Boiled linseed is either boiled or has a drying agent added. The only difference is in rates of polymerisation. Both end up the same.

>>31352753
How about I throw a BLO soaked rag in your attic?

>>31352825
>>31352843
He has a stripped wood stock, and spray laqcuer is easily removed. linseed oil causes more headaches than help, isnt waterproof, and is a bitch to remove.

>>31352847
Wow, nice shitpost, use BLO on all your wood guns, they'll be covered in scratched, waterdamage, and look like shit in days. Congrats on your trailer trash wood finishing.

>>31352608
You should paint it blue with a cartoon horse on the stock.

>>31352830
Tung oil acts the same way.

>>31352921
All those fumes are giving you cancer. The tumor is growing more each day.

>>31353025
Which is why I suggested a hard coat of spray finish that is water resistant, scratch resistant and easily removed for a novice if they change their mind later, jesus christ.

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Original German finish was raw linseed oil. Tough to find it these days without lots of additives and shit.

>>31352921
I bet you go to all the Sherwin Williams and tell everyone how to do their own projects too, with your stinkin ass coffee breath. Drink some Xylene faggot.

There's a lot of trolling ITT but some genuine posts too.

>>31352850
>linseed oil causes more headaches than help
This is your opinion. However it's a fact that rifles treated with linseed oil have been a thing for centuries and that rifles that slogged through rain and mud in WW1 and WW2 (not to mention other wars) were coated in the stuff and are still around with their original stocks. Even rifles that didn't, or got a replacement stock, were treated in the same and functioned fine. Hunting rifles used it too and were subjected to many years of bad weather.

Yes, it's not the best. But neither is a hardwood stock; both are obsolete and could potentially give you problems and require more maintenance. Even laminates can. If you want 100% waterproofing and a guarantee against warping you get fiberglass or some synthetic.

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You are all wrong!
DEAD WRONG ANNONS!!

Papa Larry uses bar top oil
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9LZsZMmXpE
here's the vid.
Looks bready gud afterwards.

>>31353079
Do you know where to get some?

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>>31353085
Trolling lol

>>31353119
>>31353079

RLO and Flaxseed oil are practically the same thing. Look in your organic food store or possibly at the regular grocery store for it. The fats in the flaxseed oil oxidize over time and give the wood that beautiful redish, brown look to it. Keep in mind that a finish like that can take decades to form. If you want immediate results, try using an alcohol based dye. Red Ox Military Stock Dye is great.

>>31353119
Op, as i understand boiled linseed oil is the same as lindseed oil, but it dries faster. Raw linseed oil is probably just linseed oil.
I suggest you youtube midway US. as i stated above (>>31353101) he has many videos covering the topic of stock finishes.

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>>31353163

>>31353181
I love the aged look it gives.

>>31352608
Refinishing collectables destroys a collectablity of said collectable. Don't be a bubba, keep it original.

And by original, I mean the finish it left with. That including the shitty Soviet shellac.

>>31352825
>I use raw linseed on my Lee Enfield's because that's historically correct and I'm not a bubba faggot.
But you are being a bubba. Yes, it is the correct finish, but you do not need to keep adding oil. Adding oil doesn't keep the stock "fresh" or keep it from drying out as idiots suggest. Quite the contrary, the oil does nothing but keep excess moisture out. By adding oil, all you are doing is dumping oil on top of oil. The oil only penetrate the first couple of millimeters of the wood, at best.

>>31353392
I do it on dried out stocks that can actually soak up the first coat, most of the surplus rifles I've ever bought were quite dry. You're right about dumping oil on top of oil there's no reason to do it once you've got enough, but you just gauge when it's had enough. Also it's good to do it once a year or so, probably just one coat, to cover over any little scratches or whatever. In service they were semi-regularly rubbed down with oil.

It's not bubba though because you don't strip the original finish or alter the color of the wood. You don't change the type of finish, you just repair what it already has.

>>31353392
Enfield wood was treated by soaking in a pressurised tank of hot linseed oil.
Afterwards every soldier was issued 2 oz of oil per year to apply to the stock.

>>31353513
Again, linseed oil doesn't add moisture to wood. It doesn't prevent a stock from drying out. It's ONLY job is to keep excess moisture out.

And yes, adding oil does effect the appearance of the wood.
>>31353532
I know what the British did and what the manual said to do and why it was done, that doesn't mean their reasoning was correct.

>>31352608
rattle can

>>31352608
tung oil was the correct factory finish iirc, the states used BLO
supposedly on the front motor oil was used for maintaining the stock was it was availible

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>>31353615
>that doesn't mean their reasoning was correct.
You must be Arisuka; no-one else on this board is so arrogant as to claim that the people who made the rifle and designed its maintenance regimen were wrong.

>>31353666
I'm not someone who listens and believes. There are a lot of things people thought 100 years ago that were wrong.

It's pretty obvious if you understand that oil is there to keep moisture out of the stock it won't be adding moisture to the stock.

>>31353057
See, I agree with you for rifles that don't see much hard use or sit in a case. Laquer them to preserve the wood over time in humid climates and to have a finish that requires no maintenance.

However, on rifles and shotguns that regularly see the woods or duck blind, I personally have found laquer to be a poor choice and went back to plain linseed oil. Allow me to explain my experience:

>have single shot revelation 16 gauge
>original wood in shit condition
>sand down and laquer coat
>use as my squirrel gun because it's light as fuck
>be in pursuit of tasty tree rats
>have to go over rough terrain on our farm and the neigbors' to get to the nut trees scattered around
>not very delicate with the gun while traversing fences, climbing rocks, crawling through thickets
>end up with a couple good scars on the stock
>no big deal
>get rained on a few times sleeping out there
>get caught in the occasional thunderstorm followed by 95 degrees and 90% humidity
>gun gets very wet several times
>sometimes stays wet for several hours cause tree rats come out after it rains
>put back in the safe for the winter after cleaning and oiling
>everything seemed fine
>pull it out in the spring to clean
>laquer is chipping around the scratches
>have to strip and redo entire stock set
>use more coats this time
>happens again the following year

I've since gone to linseed oil and it works wonders. I rub some into any scratches or dings I find after I've been out and I've had no issues with it. It is easy as fuck to apply and reapply wherever you need it. Since it soaks into the wood and you wipe away the excess, it pretty much can't be applied unevenly. It can't really be removed once it's applied but it works well for me so far so I haven't had need to. To each his own but for the ones that need refinishing, I'll be using linseed oil

>>31353710
>It's pretty obvious if you understand that oil is there to keep moisture out of the stock it won't be adding moisture to the stock.
>to keep moisture out of the stock
That's why they did it, and that's why people still do it. No one is talking about adding moisture to naturally or kiln dried wood. If you buy a rifle which had, once upon a time, an oil finish but it's worn enough that it will soak up a greater than usual percentage of a coat which would otherwise stay on the surface a long time then it's evidence the rifle needed to be recoated to continue to keep moisture out.

>There are a lot of things people thought 100 years ago that were wrong.
Yes, but this wasn't one of them. It's not effective by modern standards but it was what they had then. No one is talking about re-moisturizing the wood right through or whatever you're railing against.

>>31352608
BUBBA NO

>>31353939
You don't understand. All rifle stocks are dry wood and in fact they were put into kilns for months to dry them out. Just because it can soak up oil doesn't mean the stock is dry, nor does it mean that it needs more oil.

>No one is talking about re-moisturizing the wood
You sure implied that with saying you add oil to dried out stocks.