SVT40 thread

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>>31048305
in the process of cleaning it

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>>31048309

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>>31048318

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>>31048330

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>>31048334

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>>31048344
dated 1941

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>>31048356

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>>31048363
does this cartouche mean that the rifle was never refurbished?
I can't find any import marks either.

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>>31048375

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>>31048391

You're doing God's work anon.

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Beautiful work, anon

>>31048363
You've done good work, but some of that looks like active corrosion products to my eye.

Maybe it is time to learn to hot blue anon?

>>31050229
I don't have the space or money to do that right now, but I have considered taking it to a gun smith to get it reblued. Do you think it be worth it? Will it hurt the rifle if I don't get it reblued?

>>31050254
It will hurt it in terms of originality value amongst some. Of course, so will rust.

You do not have to have it blued, but if you do not then you had best keep it very oily. There is a lot of bare steel there.

Also cold blue is shit and provides literally no corrosion resistance. Suppose you could duracoat it, but that would just look wrong on that rifle in my opinion.

>>31050487
>It will hurt it in terms of originality value amongst some. Of course, so will rust.

That's what I'm debating. Should I leave it how it is and just keep it nice and oiled to maintain it's historical value, or should I just get it reblued since 95% of the finish is gone anyways, and that way it would preserve the rifle too.

>>31050530
I cannot answer that for you. I work as a metals conservator, so rust triggers the dogshit out of me.

>>31050530
Unless you intend to sell it soon, do it. That's a $2000 rifle, rebluing it won't knock that price down much lower

>>31050530
Carefully get rid of the rust visit chemical means and then use cold blue and a hairdryer as a stopgap

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Not mine but saved this pic from years ago.

>>31048305
>How'd I do /k/?

You brought an uncommon rifle back from the dead. I think you did great.

that's awesome man

>>31050584
>I work as a metals conservator

I'm assuming this refers to preservation and whatnot?

May I ask your professional opinion on something if that is in fact what you do?

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>>31048305
>a rusted to shit svt40 missing parts costs 300 in the US

>>31050686
Preservation does not change its subject if it is avoidable, conservation changes and uses its subject. I am a conservator, not a preserver.

Fire away.

>>31050642
Cold blue is hot garbage and accomplishes nothing but wasting time, Selenium Dioxide only colors steel/iron, it does nothing for corrosion resistance.

>>31050628
>$2000
I was under the impression that on it's best day it might bring $900 because of the bad condition it's in? Is it really worth 2000? I don't plan on selling it, but it's nice to know the value.

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>>31050719
I'm putting an uzi parts kit together, the receiver was pre-assembled and left in the white. I had planned to parkerize but dont know what equipment I'd need or how much it would cost do get said equipment. So now I'm considering just rhodie painting it, would paint (specifically either automotive or that bake on high-heat spray paint shit) be enough to prevent rust? If not, what do you know about parkerizing?

Secondly I'm about to receive an IMA P-53 Enfield untouched kit, and would like to go from whatever condition its in now into just in the white as they were kept in the 1860's. What methods would you suggest to keep the exterior from [further] rusting? Would polishing it to as close of a mirror finish as I can possibly get it work?

and lastly, I have a chilean 1895 mauser that was left in a shed as just a barreled receiver for 20 years (no stock, but all the metal parts like the mag/trigger group, barrel bands, screws, etc were oiled and stored in a closet). It was completely rusted when I found it. I've since gotten a new barrel (old was pitted to shit, as it was stored by shoving the barrel into the dirt), and removed as much of the finish as possible by scrubbing with copper/brass. What would you suggest using to get the rest of the receiver stripped down? And what would I use to give it a brown colored bluing like the rest of the parts have, or is that only possible with age? Pic related

>>31050973
To answer in order,

I don't know my ass from a hole in the ground about parking. You're on your own for that. For paint to be really corrosion resistant you need two things. A good coating with absolutely no bubbles/oil/grime between the paint and the metal. The second thing is preferably for your paint to have a corrosion inhibitor built in. The example that springs to mind is Rustoleum's tannic acid component, but that is a bit shit and doesn't hold up well to repeated handling.

Td;dr maybe

Polishing to a mirror finish is not advised. You want to form a stable patina. Oil it a great deal.

As far as stripping, elbow grease, acetone, and steel wool. If acetone isn't cutting the mustard go to Brownell's and get some Dicroclean 909 and give it a bath. Be careful with that though, it is rather unpleasant stuff. Well ventilated areas only. As far as matching a brown color, you might consider browning. Brownell's also has some pretty good browning solutions. Of course, you're never going to get a perfect match, age has a quality all its own.

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>>31050719
>Fire away.

I'm sure this is easy-peasy for you.

My uncle hammered out this knife for me from a railroad spike. I've been trying to figure out if I should finish it before I wrap up the handle and if so, how. I happen to have a "Gunsmithing at Home" book which has a section outlining different popular gun finishes, including old-school browning which I am considering as the winner.

Might you have a suggestion?

>>31051057
You'll end up with white on the blade from use no matter what style finish you use on it. If you want traditional methods that aren't too bad at home, browning is a good option. However, I would also recommend looking into rust blueing. Rust blues look fantastic, and Larry Potterfield has a good, if brief, video on youtube.

>>31051057
If at all possible, I would suggest putting ANY kind of plastic/metal/wood handle that is actually affixed to the tang.

In my state, they count the entire length of the knife as the "blade" if it doesn't have a true handle. That means if it's cord-wrapped or tape-wrapped, it's legally about twice as long as what it really is.

So fucking stupid but just thought I'd let you know. Dunno if your state is as autistic about knives.

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My friend let me touch his SVT-40 I NEED ONE NOW

>>31051085
Thanks man. I knew you'd give me a good response.

>>31051090
Will look into it. My uncle says he can make holes for fasteners if I want.

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>>31048305