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Lube and oil thread

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Thread replies: 30
Thread images: 9

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What do you use to lube your gun and protect it from rust? To protect the bore I just run a light oil (right now I am using remoil) on a patch or mop through the bore, the bolt and bcg gets a really thin coating of moly grease on the contact points with the receiver, and I haven't decided what was best for the trigger group yet so for now I'm just using a light oil to protect it from rust.

What do you guys suggest for the trigger group on a rifle?

>Bestpup picture unrelated
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>>30949422
1: froglube and white lithium grease here
2: wtf gun is that? on phone cant see filename
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Castrol 10w40
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>>30949422
I don't run anything down my bore.
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>>30949432
Desert tech mdr, not released yet.
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Anyone here have experience Moly coating trigger components and bcgs etc...?
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the best stuff ive ever used to clean is kano kroil and slp 2000 for lube
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>>30949422
>right now I am using remoil
I used to use that shit too, until I opened my safe for the first time in a year (birth of a child will do that to ya), and found 5 of 11 guns rusting. Everything in that safe had been oiled inside and out prior to putting in away. After that, I grabbed some Breakfree CLP, drenched EVERYTHING, added a huge tub of dessicant, and weather stripped the safe door.

Read through this ridiculously long article. Basically, the correct answer is Frog Lube, which is essentially coconut oil with appropriate additives. A light coat is all you need. If you choose to slather it on for long term storage, be sure to wipe down the excess before you go to the range.
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>>30950602
Forgot the link http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
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>>30949422
You can use anything from motor oil to vegetable oil. I prefer slip2k because it's nontoxic. I also use nontoxic cleaners.
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>>30949422
Oldfag here...Never oiled a bore in my life. I live in the dirty south. I have guns that are 75yrs old and have never had rust in their bores. If you are gonna store your guns outside it might be a problem for you...

If you wanna keep blued guns protected get some of this:

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/oils-lubricants/rust-prevention/rig-universal-gun-grease-prod31842.aspx

Impregnate a rag with it and wipe your gun down before you put it up.

The rule of lubrication I was taught is if it rotates(like around a pin) it gets oil and if it slides(like the rails of a pistol slide) it gets grease.

My grease of choice:

https://www.amazon.com/South-Bend-Precision-Reel-Greaser/dp/B003CULGHQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470954699&sr=8-1&keywords=south+bend+precision+reel+grease

Nice applicator, stays where you put it, doesn't gum up when it freezes.

Oil I literally dgaf. I've used clp, 3-in-1 oil, 10w30, LSA etc etc...it's all the same shit.
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>>30950813
Seconding the RIG grease, that shit smells amazing (if you like cosmoline) and has perfect consistency. Not too thick but not liquidy enough to run off over time.
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Tri Flow.
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Soak all moving parts (except firing pin blocks/springs) in CLP every time I clean a given weapon. It builds up over time.

CLP for the bore if it's not fouled, if it is, then hoppes.

Hoppes number 9 synthetic oil rubbed into all outside surfaces.

This regiment has worked perfectly for me in the humid mid-atlantic for 20 years. I keep a peet dryer in my safe (buy one seriously they're great) and a thing of dessicant that I don't recharge nearly often enough.

If I haven't handled or fired a gun in over 3 months, I clean it as if I had.
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can i get a list of supplies i should have to clean a full metal handgun?
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>>30949422
>What do you use to lube your gun and protect it from rust?
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>>30953633
>used tooth brush
>q tips
>picks like automotive hose removers
>wire or nylon brush for the really stubborn shit

your going to need a bore brush regardless and patches which could be an old cotton t shirt or a bore snake but for pistol barrels its kinda asinine unless at the range

your lube and clp of choice

although if you use >>30953677
you wont do much cleaning but wiping in my experience after "seasoning"

/endshiling
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>>30953758
thanks man
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I made this for all of you
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Does my cleaning routine sound good?

Bore: brush with Montana copper killer several times, add copper killer to brush as needed until the bore give a really light drip of the copper killer. Then run a few patches of it through to make sure the bore is really clean. Then run a couple clean patches through, then a few patches of a light oil (been using remoil but if there's something better to protect your bore then let me know).

Bolt: strip and scrub, pick away any carbon buildup if it's present, and wipe down. Repeat until clean. Rub grease (should I switch to moly grease?) on the sliding parts and oil on the rotating parts.

All other moving parts: lighter fluid then wipe, and a VERY thin layer of grease on contact points.

Reassemble.

Anything I'm not doing right?
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I use whatever I come across, with this method.
>put a massive drop on my finger
>apply to afflicted areas
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>>30950813
>If you are gonna store your guns outside
tfw working at Boy Scout camp and scraping rust off of guns all day erryday
fuck alabama humidity
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>>30954462
Literally any other oil on earth protects better than remshit.
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>>30954762
Good to know. What's your recommendation?
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>>30949422
Vaseline.
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>>30954462
Maybe get some bore snakes if you're gonna do so much patching.

They are super fast, super easy, and safer than jamming a metal ram rod up and down your bore 20 times a day.

Plus the 9mm snake works for multiple calibers, as do most of the other snakes.
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>>30956727
But wouldn't I need a separate snake for solvent and oil? Not that that's a big deal to me when I really think about it I guess.

I've heard people say they're not recommended, why? I would think they're not aggressive enough to attack carbon and copper fouling.
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>>30957229
>But wouldn't I need a separate snake for solvent and oil?

If you use solvent every time you clean, maybe.

I use CLP on bores unless there is visible carbon or copper fouling, so I just snake each bore once or twice and they're all covered in CLP.

Every 6 months to a year i'll run solvent down the bore, but I use a patch for that so i can see what fouling, if anything, is being removed.

Back when i was younger, i used solvent every time, all the time. But I've learned that CLP (or equivalent oil/solvent combo) is easier to use, and just as effective, assuming you clean your guns every 500 rounds or less. Plus, oiling and cleaning all in one step is amazing.

If I only cleaned every 1000 rounds or more, then I'd probably go back to using solvent each time.
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>>30949422
depends on the weapon

one example:

if you have a steelbarrel with chrome surface you have to use an oil thats not aggresive against copper(because the copper holds the chrome in place).
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>>30957359
This is the dumbest thing I've ever read. Copper in your bore is never optimal. It doesn't hold shit in place but a spot for moisture to hide from solvent and patches.

Clean the fucking copper out of your bore periodically you fucking nitwit.
Thread posts: 30
Thread images: 9


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