Art Supplies General

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This should be in tomorrow as well

Vintage Koh-I-Noor Rapidograph size 0

Brand new.

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This is what makes the brush pen great

>>2401170
Sweet. so how'd it look it paper?

>>2401173
>size 0
what in the fuck?

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>>2401196
>symbol sketch?

>>2401201
I need that size for my actual work

>>2401196
I admit, I clearly need a lot of practice with this pen. I haven't used brush in a while since my work doesn't require it but I am hoping to somehow incorporate it and perhaps start drawing urban landscapes (probably not but I am toying with the idea).

>7b
>sharpener
>kneaded eraser
>fine no bleed sharpie

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This is from a sketchbook I had in 06
I haven't drawn in a while

>>2401257
>7b

Why don't you just use charcoal?

>sharpie

Are they really no bleed? For any paper? I never used one and I always consider picking up a pack for general writing and doodling in notebooks.

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I just use waterbrushes and fill them with fountain pen ink or Ecoline. They're cheap enough that I can afford a few and not worry much if they get clogged.
I do love my fountain pens, though.

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>>2401270
Im a doodle pro, my bro.
I cant be cleaning charcoal up in public.

As for the sharpie its really good for refining sketches you like.

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>>2401305
I remember the fountain pens from the old thread on supplies. Oh man, I don't know, they look nice but judging from the nibs, the line quality looks like it would be too thick. Also, the pen body is too bid and fat and heavy which I personally don't like. I bought a Art Alternatives Sketch fountain pen, "Fine" point, and was disgusted and disappointed with the line, I had to give it away.

>Pic related

Best fountain pen I have ever used, can't use any other unless it matches the line it makes. And the pen body is compact and unobtrusive as far as size goes.

That's only because I like working with fine lines. Also, water brushes, in my experience, leak too much.

>>2401340
>I cant be cleaning charcoal up in public.
Makes sense.

But it leaves a mark in the back of the paper, that's my main concern, I personally hate that since I like using both sides of the paper.

>>2401305
Are they all the same size?

Also, do you have them for the quality of line they reproduce or because they are expensive (assuming they are because that is what they look like, overpriced, Chairman of the Board like pens used to impress prospective clients and intimidate competing businessmen)?

>>2401234
>>2401248
Kinda nice looking m8. is it waterproof though?

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>>2401305
Have you ever seen or used these?
A set of a fine and caligraphy nib

They are better than the bulky pens but, the line still didn't satisfy. Though, they are pretty good.

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>>2401410
Depends on the ink you use, since you can use a converter made for the pen
>>2401179
Which I want to get.

I want to use it with my ink.
>pic related, my ink

>>2401439
Sweet . thanks for info.

>>2401235
what kind of work is that? artificial conception?

>>2401443
No problem.

if you decide to buy the pen, buy it on ebay, don't use jetpens.com

I like jetpens but they can be over-priced. I would buy the converter from them though.

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>>2401445
>artificial conception?
What?

>pic related, my work
http://abdushakur.com/kitaabuabdushakur

>>2401445
Infinite abstract maybe

Whats with the arab name? Are you trying to cash in on some of the positive discrimination benefits?

>>2401479
It is transliterated as Abdushakur (Servant of the Most Appreciative; Abd = slave/servant; ash-Shakur; the Most Appreciative, on of Allaah's 99 Names)
Which is my name
also, hence the website, abdushakur.com

The name is in Arabic because I am Muslim, and that is my Muslim name.

>>2401352
I like the thicker grips, they really help with longer writing sessions. The nibs are definitely not as fine as that Esterbrook. That looks like an extra fine? Really good looking pen.

>>2401402
Nothing like that, desu I just like fancy pens.
The Faber-Castell on the right was my first fountain pen, aside from a fake Lamy Safari that I got for free. It's a german M nib that writes more like a stubby broad, but it's super smooth. It also dries out if I let it sit unused for a couple of days, which was horribly disappointing.
The Platinum on the left I keep filled with Carbon Black for drawing, since the slip and seal cap is supposed to keep the ink from drying inside the pen for like a year. It's a soft fine nib that's actually not soft at all, although I can get some line variation if I push it.
The Sailor is just about the nicest pen I've ever tried, very consistent medium nib, not too smooth and not too toothy.
I also have a Jinhao X750 that I got for $3 shipped and fitted with a Zebra G nib. Awesome line variation when it works, but the feed isn't suited to a flex nib at all.

>>2401631
Oh, do you use the pens for writing or drawing or both?

I can understand the attraction for fancy pens. I myself like out-of-production pens and rare pens, but not generally, just what appeals to me (I am not a collector).

The Zebra G pen is the one they sell at Walgreens and Rite Aide?

>>2401631
Thanks, yea, the nib is extra fine.

It was pretty cheap on ebay. I wanted to buy a flexible nib but it was $40

>>2401631
I got the Esterbrook by default from my grandfather after he passed away. I was going thru his things and found the pen. I had to get new bladders and the nib it had was worn (italic nib). He was a painter/illustrator/musician, so I am assuming he used it.

>>2401234
>lettering is a different story
try moon lettering

>>2401639
I mostly draw with the Platinum, the other two I use for writing and occasional doodles.

I've never tried any of the Zebra pens. I know they make a G pen as well but I don't think it's nearly as flexible as the dip nib version.

>>2401643
I've been on the lookout for a cheap vintage flex pen as well but no luck. The Flexible Esterbrooks / Watermans / Eversharps are really tough to get a fair price on, a lot of people want them.

>>2401439
I wouldn't fill your brush pen with anything that isn't fountain pen safe. Try a Pentel Aquash if you want to use india ink, although it will clog eventually.

>>2401678
>moon lettering

What is that?

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>>2401685
>I wouldn't fill your brush pen with anything that isn't fountain pen safe. Try a Pentel Aquash if you want to use india ink, although it will clog eventually.

You're right. I did try using this ink with the Esterbrook but it did not flow smoothly, which is too bad. The bottle says

>contains no varnish or shellac. Supreme non-clogging properties...

Which is weird because i use this with my Marsmatic, which is very fine nibbed. For the Esterbrook I use Dollar ink

>pic; Marsmatic and dollar ink

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>>2401709
pen nib close up

>>2401685
I use the Marsmatic for my artwork exclusively.

The other pens are just part of my personal arsonal of supplies

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This is a comparison between the marsmatic, a safety pin, a sewing needle and a bobby pin.

If I am not mistaken, the 0 Koh-I-Noor is the same size as a 00 Marsmatic

But this is the size I use for my work.

>>2401744
do some gesture drawings or something (thats not abstract patterns) to showcase it, how it compares to 0.05.

>>2401709
It's not so much the nib but the different feed design that technical pens have. If you want a fountain pen ink that's pigmented and waterproof your best choices are Platinum Carbon Black and Sailor Kiwa-Guro, although they're both expensive outside Japan.

>>2401170
>Kuretake Brush Pen
Not worthy if your art is shit.
Prove me wrong.

>>2401752
>not worth it
>one shitty tumblr tier comission will pay for it

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>>2401746
That's the difference in line width. I am not going to start doing "gesture drawings" to demonstrate.

They are almost exactly the same width

>>2401748
This is true. I like that dollar ink because it doesn't have a blue or red tint. It looks like an ink wash

>>2401752
Lol
>prove me wrong
Who are you?

And what benefit would doing that bring to me? And is your perspective or opinion relevant?

The answer is
>no

>>2401746
Also
I posted a drawing i did with a size 0 rapidograph
>>2401265
Old but, whatever. I don't draw anymore

>>2401774
gesture drawings can take you just few seconds each...
but i guess they are too scary for you because it would show that you are shit and only can do autistic patterns

>>2401796

I probably wouldn't be good at gesture drawing since I haven't drawn in over 3 years. And, I am not here to prove to you or anyone whether i can draw or not. I do abstract pen work.

What do you do?

>>2401796
Also, no interest in drawing gestures. The difference in line variation can be observed here
>>2401774

>>2401796
>you are shit and only can do autistic patterns
You seem like an intimidated amateur

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Size 0 Rapidograph

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Do people feel the same way about a tablet stylus as I and others do feel about pens, pencils, brushes and other supplies that go into making their art?

>>2401173
Be really careful with that thing, it's gonna die pretty fast if you don't keep it really clean.

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Just picked up one of these. Anyone else use them for drawing? Thoughts? Did I fall for the meme?

>>2407229
you fell for the meme.

Should have bought a good 2mm lead holder. I like redcircle 600.

>>2407229
Rotating the pencil is all part of the technique and naturalness of the line.

Mind you I have one of those. Though don't use it.

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>>2407233
Have one of these lying around too. Is it any better?

>>2407251
Yes of course. All the line variation benefits of a wooden pencil with convenience of mechanical. Just get a decent sharpener.

>>2407233
all 2mm leadholders are the same, there cant even be any difference if you think about what it does

>>2401179
I use the similar Kuretake and just refill the ink cartridge with a syringe. The japanese ink cartridges are twice the size of the ISO crap.

>>2407229
I tried one, but the rotation feature is worthless, gets in the way and makes the pen more fragile. A Graphgear is way better.

>>2407233
2mm is a meme itself.

>>2407172
Thanks for the tip anon. I appreciate it. I may just keep if as part of my collection and not use it like that.

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>>2407229
>>2407233
>>2407251
>>2407260
>>2407347
>>2407352
>pic related

>>2407263
True

>>2407339
I thought about doing this as well because the cartridge has the mixer marble in it. I may just do that anon. Thanks.

>>2407476
I don't know if the marble is important. More important is the size and that the cartridge can be reused without wear&tear. Also don't forget to clean the cartridge and brush every few refills to avoid clogging.

>>2407472
Guess what I don't need when I use a 0.5mm.

Also downvote for not using sand paper; using a sharpener is idiocy when you use a 2mm for flexibility in line weight.

Other things bad about 2mm:
- worse lead holder quality compared to 0.5mm
- worse lead quality compared to 0.5mm
- more problems when carrying things around
- time wasted on sharpening which could be spent on drawing
- more dust

Which is why I dropped it.

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>>2407500
I use a .5mm pencil

>I've had this pencil since 1999, still use it

>>2407516
And? 2mm still sucks.

>>2407500
Seriously, can we talk about this? I guess that most of you guys will not finish your work in pencil, so is there any actual reason aside of personal preference to stick to a leadholder?

I have used a leadholder for the longest time, generally 2B with a very light hand. I draw comics so I'll always ink afterwards. I few months ago I found 0.5 Rotring 600 for cheap, I love it and as of today I see no reason to stick to a 2mm.

The 2mm graphite quality is better (I feel) and the lines themselves are almost unnoticeably nicer and you have a little more variability, but it doesn't matter. Do you guys have an objective reason to keep using a 2mm leadholder? Why do so many pros use those, or even wooden pencils?

Was going to make serious comments but this thread is really toxic as of this moment.

>>2407229
I have one (not specifically for drawing, but I've drawn with it). While it's a nice feature, I think it ends up being less useful than it is for writing because the rotation happens when you pick the pencil back off the paper, so it doesn't rotate as much if you're doing longer, continuous lines.

Then again, I'm really just starting getting into art so someone with more experience might know better.

>>2407607
I think you mean that you prefer convenience over having to continuously sharpen and/or sand down the lead.

How does a 2mm suck, without it, you wouldn't have your precious mechanical pencil, which no one is even against. The 2mm offers the same convenience with the added shading ability of a wooden pencil. Less mess, and the graphite powder can be recycled into the art as well.

>>2407646
It's an aesthetic personal preference, yes. No one really does pencil work anymore, I don't think so this is all about personal preference. I just like my Koh-I-Noor, it looks nice and I found it so no need to replace it, same as with my Pilot X-Fine.

I don't even pencil my work, it's all ink so it doesn't matter.

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>>2407654
>Was going to make serious comments
>thread is really toxic
So instead decides to pollute the thread with more "toxic" post

What?

>>2407702

I only use one pen for my work

Staedtler MarsMatic 700 0/.35

For the following reason:

>Personal preference. I could use any pen with the same size line but I use this one because of the name MARSMATIC. I use it with BLACK STAR ink to make art that people say looks like space or the universe. So to me there is a connection between the tools and art I make. There is a theme. Unintentional as well, which is what makes it cool, to me at least. Also, I like rare pens, and this one has been out of production for a while now. The pen has the gold to indicate that it is a sapphire nib as well. So I am using a Marsmatic with a sapphire tip, using Black Star ink to make cosmic looking art.

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has anyone tried these luminance brand colored pencils? I use prismacolor right now, but these seem better even though they're $5 for just ONE.

>>2407744
What makes them seem better than the Prismacolors you are currently using?

>>2407744
Like everything from Caran d'Ache it is horribly overpriced. I'd say get a set of Polychromos if you're unhappy with your Prismas, the only practical difference is the Luminance are a bit more opaque and a bit softer.

>>2407722
Who the fuck are you quoting you dumbass tripnigger

>>2407744
I just gave youtube a kick (I also use a prismacolor set, 120 pieces, have them for a long time now) and is not too different from those.

see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3_6kAQx6K4

"but prismacolor breaks a lot" just wave them, this applies to almost all brands.
"They're much softer" I would have to try this myself, all in all prismacolor is pretty soft as it is when it comes to wax pencils.
"They blend better" the difference is not that big for me to care
"They're brighter" same as above.
all in all, skip to 10:10 to see the difference.

being like, thrice as expensive I don't really think is worth it, as much as this girl tries to imply.

>>2407870
Are you retarded?
>That's a rhetorical question. The answer is yes.

That's my personal reason why I use my pen.

>>2407890
These companies need to do two things

Eliminate the wood casing and sell the color lead in the same way they sell their sets for lead holders and mechanical pencils. Also make them in the size of each mechanical pencil size, except .3 because it would be way too thin.

>her voice is unbearable

>>2407864
urgh I know they're so expensive.. I might try a couple just to see the difference for myself.

>>2407890
very helpful, thank you! seeing her work on the same project with both brands gave me some insight. It seems luminance blends better, but yeah, I don't have enough spare cash to drop on a whole set. I would maybe try polychromos but the general consensus seems that the whites are translucent, and I blend with white about 60% of the time.

>>2407913
But that makes no sense if you have a lot of pencils and/or want to work efficiently. No one's going to buy 120 lead holders.

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>>2407933
lol

TRUE, no one will buy 120 lead holders

Then they shouldn't eliminate the wooden pencils and still offer color leads for sale.

I personally wouldn't mind having to switch colors in my lead holder or have at least several lead holders. Maybe not 120 but like 3-5 of them.

>pic related
We were beaten to the punch

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>>2407933
More...

>>2407646
It's preference. I've went back and forth between a 2mm and a 0.5mm.

You could do the same, draw with both then whichever one you like, just use it.

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Best eraser

>>2401458

I can't imagine how long that must take. Interesting stuff.

>>2408457
pentel is better

>>2401458
All your stuff from your book is the same.

>>2401809
>>2401813
>>2401839
Why do you always reply in multiple posts? I've seen you do this a bunch of times. Just reply in one post.

>>2407646
Seems like I didn't have luck yet with 2mm leads. Nothing so far could beat the 0.5mm 4B Pentel lead. Any good reccommendations to fill up the inventory?

>>2408480
Awhile
>>2408520
Because the book is one piece. It is one whole piece, not individual pieces. You can say that about any book "It's all letters", or about a comic book, "It's all panels". When the book is done, it will make sense to those that can read it. This is why I do not post the work in progress (per page), I post completed pages.
>>2408521
Because that's the way it is...here you go, one post response. :) can't say it will always be this way though.

>>2407703
>I think you mean that you prefer convenience over having to continuously sharpen and/or sand down the lead.

Less work isn't just a convenience, it is a step forward. Without sharpening you can draw without carrying a sharpener or sand paper. No sharpening means also I can draw anywhere, because dust isn't getting over everyone else.

>How does a 2mm suck, without it, you wouldn't have your precious mechanical pencil, which no one is even against. The 2mm offers the same convenience with the added shading ability of a wooden pencil. Less mess, and the graphite powder can be recycled into the art as well.

I don't know what to use 2mm for in the first place. The idea that you have to draw with a wooden pencil seems outdated. So it isn't precious to me at all.

>>2408520
Oh yea, also, The Book of Abdushakur is the "second version" and continuation from the original UNTITLED book (which I stopped because the Moleskin paper is no good). I want to finish it regardless, but the main project is priority.

>>2408526
lol

This whole discussion is pretty pointless I think. It doesn't really matter. I don't use pencil. It is personal preference like you said. I like how my lead holder looks and stays uniform with the color scheme of my pens and work (black/gold).

Does anyone even do pure pencil art and taken seriously?

Oh well, wooden pencil is outdated, lead holders are personal preference and aesthetically pleasing, and mechanical pencil is the best choice for most pencil work and writing generally.

Can't go wrong either way.

>>2408529
First you jump into the discussion by quoting everyone, then you run away. What did you want to say in the first place?

>>2408545
Ignore that, I just realized that you use a name. Not like I care enough about you to remember what you said a few posts further up or who you are in the first place and what your position on X is.

>>2408545
All I did was share a picture of my pencil because I like my pencil.

Then anon went in about not using 2mm pencil, so I posted my mechanical pencil (obviously, all this is procrastination from important matters) anyway, then they said it sucked and yadda yadda yadda, so I commented and that was about it.

The reality is
>>2408529

>>2408553
Thank God!

>>2408556
>All I did was share a picture of my pencil because I like my pencil.
No, you replied to everyone in the middle of a discussion with a random picture which was totally out of context.

Don't reply to posts with random content which is not related. You owning a 2mm is not related to the merrits of 2mm.

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What's the best paper for pencil/ink/comic style work? Currently using this.

>>2408623
Comic: good 80g copy paper for the pencil part, heavier copy paper for inking.

If you are lucky, you can buy B4 sizes for cheap, as A4 is pretty small and A3 huge.

Pencil drawings? No clue.

>>2408581
You really want to go on about pencils like this?

>Don't reply to posts with random content which is not related
LOL shaddap

>merrits of 2mm
this is bad b8 m8

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>>2408457
I prefer the Staeder stick eraser. It doesn't break off easily since it doesn't use a push mechanism which cuts into the eraser. It's also better than the pentel click erasers as it doesn't bend as easily (as it's a bit thicker) and push back into the barrel.

>>2407919
So just get a white luminance, ez

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>>2409961
The clip on the Pentel ones is simultaneously the slider and breaks off stupidly easy as well. Upside is that the erasers have just the right size to use as refill for mechanical pencils with that mechanic on the back end.
Pic related is also rather nice, especially for details.

I'm going on a trip by plane later this week. Do I need to take measures against art supplies self-destructing in my luggage due to pressure differences or is that sort of worry unwarranted?

>>2410473
I have a Mono Knock and it's nice for lightening areas, but the eraser doesn't really erase shit. Nowhere near as nice as their block erasers.
>>2410481
What sort of supplies? If you're carrying pastels or anything else fragile just pack them well enough that they won't break if they get knocked around. For fountain pens and brush pens, make sure they're either full or completely empty to avoid leakage due to the pressure change.

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>>2410515
How about copics/promarkers or posca markers?

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happiness

>>2410555
You might get a blob of ink in the caps at most, there shouldn't be any real leaking issues. Should be safe to use during the flight as well.

>>2407516
watch out, hes got the detonator

I just made a new chalk brush in photoshop today
feels pretty comfy, I like the chalk.

>>2408522
2mm mitsubishi leads are great.

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I use these shitty pencils and a college ruled notebook to draw . What are the basic essentials for figure drawing?

>>2416376
loomis

>>2416376
>ruled notebook
you should essentially kill yourself

>>2416376
You can get by with just swapping out the notebook for an a sketchbook

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My study asks us to do everything in fineliners of varying thicknesses/colours to force us into a neater way of working. My problem is that whatever brand I try, the nibs always wear down within a few weeks. At that point the only way to get any ink down (rather than scratching up paper) is by holding them at a perfect 90 degree angle, which is incredibly uncomfortable. As far as I can tell I don't press hard at all for this to happen. What brands/models of fineliners don't have this issue?
Pic related, Stabilo a shit

>>2418542
I think all fiber tipped pens have that sort of issue, probably some less than others. You could try buying a higher quality pen specifically made for drawing like the Sakura Pigma Micron, Copic Multi Liner, or the Kuretake Zig.
You might also want to look into pens with metal tips, like a Rapidograph (which are very expensive and most of them require you to write at a 90 degree angle), or the Ohto Graphic Liner.
One last thing to consider are drawing pens with replaceable tips, like the Copic Multi Liner SP (which are kinda expensive) or, once again, a Rapidograph (which are also very expensive).
Actually, you might be able to look into micro tip gel pens like the Uni Signo or Pentel Hi-Tec series, which use metal tips but gel ink instead of pigmented ink. They also don't come in as many sizes, especially the smaller ones, but it might work for you.

recommendations for beginner watercolor set with brushes and shit and what paper?

>>2418542
The rule sounds annoying. Why different colors?

As long as you buy felt tip pens, you will have to replace often, so find a good kind and rebuy in packs.

I won't recommend Rapidographs, they are for architects, not for drawing, they will just slow you down. By now they are more a relict of the past. The tip quality of Copics wasn't that different compared to other felt tip pens.

Otherwise, fountain pens and refillable brushes wasn't mentioned yet. Japanese brands are pretty good here (or rather the only good ones) and a 500ml bottle of watersoluble chinese ink+a syringe for refilling goes a long way if you want to ink a lot. But you can end up spending ~$50 depending on if you go for cheaper pens ($3-5) or for pens which cost more than $13-15. If you live in the USA then jetpens is the obvious place to check out what exists.

I recently got into casein paints. I ordered one tube of phthalo blue (among other colours) and they sent me 3 by mistake and told me to just keep it. I thought I was lucky. I thought I'd ride off into the sunset and never have to buy blue again.
I was wrong.
This motherfucker just murdered the shit out of the first brush I ever bought ;_;

To add insult to injury, I only even ordered the phthalo because I thought I might as well widen my palette a little while replacing a yellow with which I had this same problem.
AND I only became interested in casein in the first place because I wanted something opaque but was worried that acrylics might ruin my brushes, lordy lord.

Don't mind me, just complaining.

>>2419410

If you just want something affordable to practice with, I started with the W&N cotman sketcher's pocket box and found it was great as a beginner (and I still use the handy little box to this day to keep my proper artist quality paints in).
Just don't make the same mistake I did and buy any more cotman colours after that to try and widen your palette. They're great to start with, but you'll outgrow them pretty fast and be wasting your money.

As for artist quality paints, I use both W&N and M Graham. I probably prefer the latter, because they stay forever wet, even when squeezed out and left in a palette indefinitely. Since I don't have to water them down by re-wetting them like W&N, it's much easier to get really strong colour down in one layer, so nothing gets overworked.
But again, definitely just play with a decent student set before breaking the bank. Artist quality colours are a long term investment, and everyone has different needs they need to figure out.

I'd highly recommend taking a look at link related. Best beginner book on the subject I ever read, and the pigment guide at the start helped me pick my personal palette, which I'm still happy with years later.
http://www.parkablogs.com/content/book-review-complete-watercolorists-essential-notebook-treasury-of-watercolor-secrets

Paper, Strathmore series 400 is a good balance of decent/affordable, but I didn't really use anything else as a beginner so I don't know how it stacks up in general. Brushes, I just cheaped the fuck out with some officeworks synthetic sets before diving into the real thing, so idk.

I got crayola crayons 8 pack. roseart colored pencils i got from a thrift store, sharpies I've stolen from work and cheap construction paper. feels good to make masterpieces and rub em in the face of materialfags

>>2419874
is there a difference between sable and fiber brushes?
some fibers are as equally good i dunno why people would spend hundreds on a sable

>>2419991
>crayons, colored pencils, sharpies
Enjoy your children toys.

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Thinking of donating some of these

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>>2420040
Got these yesterday

>>2419991

>masterpieces

They'll look nothing like what you drew in a couple of years but suit yourself.

>>2420041
Sorry about the fucking pic jeez I wish I could post more pics but I guess I have to go get a new fucking phone because my piece of shit is broken.

I bought a couple of the cheaper kuretakes for like 8-10 bucks each. I refill them with speedball freeflow india ink.

I get quite a few fills before one clogs, then I just take it apart and throw it all in some water then alcohol. I grab the one that's not clogged and by the time it gets clogged I just take the previous pen out of the alcohol and it's ready to go again.

How

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>>2422073
>How
Good question. You