Does anyone on /g/ have experience with soldering new switches

the real question here is 'why'

>>59486181
you just need to buy a new one just straighen out the long metal piece when you open it up

>>59486181
>being a gaymur subhuman
>buying a mouse so expensive that it's actually cheaper to repair it rather than buying a new one
ISHYGDDT

>>59486181
>soldering a mouse
>not buying an asus rog mouse with interchangeable switches
lmao

>>59486228
>wmo1.1a
>expensive

They can be had for under 10$ these days, and are still one of the best mice around.

This is the opposite of subhuman gamershit. This is ungamerism.

>>59486181
1. Desolder the old ones
2. Solder in the new ones
pretty simple

>>59486181
in theory it'd work but what else could break? why not get a new one so you don't waste your time?

>>59486691
It should only take a few minutes to complete. Modern computer mice are just a micro-controller, a few discrete components, and some switches. There's not much that can break in them all the parts are pretty rugged. The switches just get bent out of shape over time. You can bend them back into shape but it may not work well with cheapshit switches.

File: maki is cute 893.jpg (233KB, 393x624px) Image search: [Google]

233KB, 393x624px

Do you have a desoldering pump? for a three-pin device, you will need to remove the solder from all pins before pulling it or you'll rip up the traces. Desoldering braid might do the job, but i find it hard to get everything out of larger holes with it.

Not sure what there is to explain, heat the pin, suck out the solder, repeat, pull out the part, stick in a new one, solder it in, and you're done.

>>59486181
>tfw his mouse ran out of clicks

>>59486827
There is a bit of a technique to desoldering things. Usually stuff goes smooth if you have a decent solder sucker. If your solder sucker kinda sucks(not well that is) then it might take a few attempts. It's usually helpful to put down fresh solder on top of the old solder to loosen the solder joint up a little then after letting it cool go back and use a solder sucker to pick up the majority if not all of the solder. Desoldering braid can help clean up the remainder if there's any left. Main problem with desoldering braid is having the heat applied for too long might burn things up.

>>59486905
All good tips desu. Funny story about solder suckers sucking; i was using my cheap blue ebay special the other day and when the plunger popped up it came all the way out of the tube and hit me in the forehead. Really need to get a proper desoldering gun but they're like $100+

>>59486827
I hate using desolder pumps. I'd rather use braid. As long as you dip it in flux first, it works really well. You just have to use the right thickness of braid for the job.

I wouldn't bother unless they're broken. I fell for some 'rhythm' game where I click my mouse a ton and even then the default 10m omrons are great. 20m switches are just harder to press and honestly aren't that great.
Honestly watch some soldering video on youtube from some random mouse. You're not going to run into any issues with a WMO (I've soldered IE3.0) they're so easy to work with and it's close to impossible to fuck it up.
Things I've almost fucked up anyway:
Took too long with the soldering iron so I almost burnt everything
Partially molten switches lel
Used a shit desoldering pump at first.. makes things hard if you can't remove the solder well.

>>59486933
Is it like this one?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C70X7V4/

I had one similar to that one but the only thing holding the two parts together were some threads on the plastic and metal parts. It just fell apart after a few months of regular use.

If there is nothing wrong with the current solder then it's not hard to replace the copper spring.

>>59487119
screw threads* that is

The threaded plastic got completely stripped out through regular use.