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/wt/ watch thread

This is a blue board which means that it's for everybody (Safe For Work content only). If you see any adult content, please report it.

Thread replies: 361
Thread images: 97

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This thread is about the appreciation of watches, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch.

>Required Viewing For Newbies:
https://youtu.be/508-rmdY4jQ

>Strap Guide:
http://pastebin.com/SwRysprE

Previous thread:
>>59007192
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Guys, what can I get if I have manlet wrists?

Please help.
>>
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3rd for the Broadest of Arrows
>>
>REMINDER CASIO'S PLASTICKY DOGSHITS ARE THE MOST REDDIT-TIER WATCHES
>>
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>>59028723
At least they keep the time properly, unlike your dogshit mechanical garbage.

>wow your watch fails at its primary function
>B-BUT IT'S PRETTY
>L-LOOK IT EVEN HAS A THOUSAND YEAR STAR CHART AT THE BACK

Literally Apple-tier retardation.
>>
>>59024760
>2 week power reserve

they get a pass
>>
Does the Pulsar PW3001 use a standard battery?
>>
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>complications are just mechanical apps
>>
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Why is this brand so pricey

They make such unremarkable shit
>>
>>59028889
Pretty sure it uses a CR2025.

>>59028950
some decent prices on vintage stuff though.
>>
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Skelewrist here, pic related is 37mm, will a 40mm look huge?
>>
>>59028997
the lugs look long. measure lug2lug

on first impression 40mm will probably look large or be at your limit
>>
>>59028997
what is the lug-to-lug on both watches? And does the larger watch curve to as wrist as much, more than or less than your current watch?
>>
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>>59028793
Looks like someone's butt has been violently widen.
kek

>You can get quartz watches that aren't utter dogshit.
>>
>>59028950
Because they are sponsored by a serial killer.
>>
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>>59029033
>feeling superior for using inferior garbage

Yes you can indeed get a quartz that's better than a mechanical. For about 10 bucks. This isn't a technology thread anyway, so kindly stick to your containment board: >>>/fa/
>>
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>>59029115
As has been said before. This is a technology related topic, we have discussed technology quite extensively here before. Just because they aren't all stellar threads doesn't mean they don't belong here.

/wt/ is like any other thread on /g/. sometimes it's about tech and insightful, other times it's

>WOOD SCREWS
>HOUSEFIRES
>XXXX IS FINISHED
>XXXX FANBOYS BTFO

That's a problem with our board, not this thread.
>>
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>>59029115
>Failling this hard at simple reading.

I said that you can buy good quartz watches, that are technologically superior, like Seiko and Breitling thermocompensated calibers,

OR you can buy plasticky dogshit Casios.
>>
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Allow me to get this out of the way to preempt the inevitable thread shitting:
>Sinns are shitters
>Omegas are mountain-jew shitters, especially the moonwatch
>Nomos are upstart shitters
>Squale and Steinhart are true horological brands and great value
>>
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Guess what I got
>>
>>59029519
Nice omeg-ah, oh shit. I'm sorry.
>>
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>>59029562
Absolutely worth it for the price I paid and the level of finish on the Seagull movement.

Machine Polish with little-to-nil flaws for the chain.

>Neglected to remove protective film
>>
>>59029612
Are those folded end links?
>>
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>Watch running 2 seconds fast
>Store it crown down overnight
>Now running 2 seconds slow
>>
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>>59029619
>>
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>>59029519
>>59029612
I've never seen this Seagull Chronograph before.

I've got the 1963 on order. Should be arriving today.
>>
>>59029651
That is the Ultra-rare Limited Edition Seagull Seamaster in Black.

Apparently, they aren't making anymore of these which is a shame.
>>
>>59029672
>they aren't making anymore

Seagull is moving up in the world and they probably think making Omega homages is now beneath them.
>>
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I really don't get Navitimer people

Ah yes I have thousands of dollars I wont spend it on a Submariner or Speedmaster, I'll take that watch that looks like someone vomited an algebra text book over a watch.
>>
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Great, we're back to autistic OPs.
>>
>>59029620
Alternate dial up and crown down - problem solved.
>>
>>59029825
>Set alarm for half way through the night to turn my watch over

At least I'll be on time for meetings
>>
>>59029723
>Ah yes, let's spend a whole season tracking down and killing a harmless ex-hooker I fell in love with.
Fixed.
>>
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>>59029620
>>59029831
>2 seconds
>>
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>>59029620
This is a special kind of autism.
>>
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>>59029744
What does it matter m8? Post some interesting movements.

The beta21 movement in the omega electroquartz and numerous other pieces is the first swiss quartz movement, released in 1969. The 21 in the name comes from the number of companies who worked together to develop the movement. It doesn't just pulse once per second like normal quartz watches. The 8192Hz crystal was reduced to 256Hz using ICs, which drove a vibration motor. So the seconds hand sweeps extremely smoothly like tuning fork watches.
>>
>>59029499
>moonwatch are shitters
Explain?
>>
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Brb trolling reddit
>>
>>59030498
Post link pls
>>
Is there a simple Rolex like the AirKing / Explorer / Datejust that has a display back-case? Can't seem to find one
>>
>>59030721
Rolex doesn't do display casebacks.
>>
>>59030746
Any reason for that? I think everyone loves a good display caseback

So I'll have to resort to aftermarket solutions then? Bit shitty
>>
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>>59030675
Reee it is not allowing me to post it atm
>>
>>59028593
Not even memeing, seiko 5, they make pretty small ones.

Or seiko in general, anything designed for the asian market.
>>
>>59030769
Due to a combination of their history of making tool watches, the minimal movement finishing, etc. I'm sure you can get a lengthier explanation off google.
>>
>>59028889
Do I have to answer this in every thread? YES IT USES A CR2025.
>>
>>59030769
Probably the same why they don't do AR. "It's not a part of the Rolex DNA" or whatever.
>>
>55 million dollars
>Quartz
>>
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>>59030935
>>
>>59030935
Was this an experiment to make the ugliest watch in existence?
>>
Where's the fedex guy with my watch reeeee
>>
>>59030935
Relevant

https://youtu.be/Yom7LtHySuo?t=3m30s
>>
>>59030675
Got it
https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/5v4406/hello_i_have_found_this_gold_pocket_watch_while/?st=IZE1M4QT&sh=d158d143
>>
>>59031021
What's the gag here?
>>
>>59030935
>you can live off luxuriously for year with each colored diamond

I don't care I'd wear it even if it had a capsulted piece of shit in the center
>>
>>59030498
>>59030841
>>59031021
I don't see the trolling

it looks like it has day date small seconds moonphase minute repeater

I can't make out the subdial on top

the fact it doesn't have a maker's mark on the movement or the face is concerning
>>
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>>59030841
Is that the same movement as this? If so that cleaned up amazingly m8.
>>
>>59031089
Its a patek minute repeater with chrono and perpetual calendar senpai. Gotta go slow
>>
>>59031111
Nah, that was my post though. That movement is of a much lower quality than the patek. Its also a triple instead of a perpetual calendar and a quarter instead of a minute repeater.
>>
>>59031133
Ah, gotcha. I assume the patek isn't a chronograph too (like the other movement) then?
>>
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>>59031151
No it is too, they basically have the same complications but the patek has the more advanced versions of both
>>
>>59031191
Neat. Is there a chronograph minute hand in the center or is it only a chronograph seconds?
>>
>>59030978
>>
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>>59028950
Ted Cruz endorsements don't pay for themselves.
>>
>>59031217
Big Seconds hand only
Now if only people responsief to my reddit post :(
>>
>>59031191
Why's there no patek name on the dial?
>>
>>59031415
spoiler: it's not a patek
>>
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>>59031425
>>
>>59029723
Navitimers aren't the greatest looking but they're functional pilot's watches and they are one of the very few that have been to space.

Plus they got rid of that ETA dogshit for all of their chronographs and have made a manual wind, COSC certified, column wheel chronograph in house with a 70 hour power reserve.

If they weren't like twice the cost it would decimate the moonwatch IMO.
>>
>>59029152
>That's a problem with our board
You're not helping.
>>
>>59031449
>they're functional pilot's watches

There's apps for iphone that perform any calculations a pilot could want better.

>If they weren't like twice the cost it would decimate the moonwatch IMO.

But thery're fucking ugly
>>
>>59031415
>>59031425
>>59031437
Idk, there's many ancient high end pocket watches that have no name on the dial. It came in a nice box with a hand written certificate. (Spoiler, its not mine)
>>
>>59031482
>But thery're fucking ugly

To me and you yes, but apparently not to everyone else because they've been Breitling's bread and butter even when they were putting shitter movements in them.
>>
>>59031522
You could probably put a Breitling logo on a piece of dog shit and sell it for $5,000
>>
Why are there third party companies that can produce watches with seiko movements for cheaper than seiko themselves with the same movement?

That's not how this shit is supposed to work. Seiko obviously sell those movements for a mark up so the 3rd party watch should be more.

Does this just show that Seiko are charging too much?
>>
>>59031641
Probably because they just slap it in the cheapest possible chink case.
>>
>>59031649
As long as it's stainless (not chrome plated brass) and looks ok, what's the problem?
>>
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>>59030174
>21 companies to develop
>8192Hz
Trash. I raise you Ronda's first quartz movement from 1973, the Ronda 1377.
>32khz, the now standard
>1s sweep
>3 jewels
>day-date with an odd way of quicksetting (move the hands backwards to set the date)
>4 generations from 73 to 75, each with progressively smaller crystal and IC
>mechanical and electronic hacking on 1st version, mechanical hacking only on later
I'm lucky enough to have one, the latest fourth revision.
>>
>>59031659
Without getting into specific refs, it could be multiple things m8.
>>
>>59031712
All that matters is how it looks and if it looks ok then it's good enough.

I don't buy into the Rolex sales pitch that the metal you make a case out of makes a difference.
>>
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>>59031707
Neat. Of course it only makes sense that years later a quartz movement runs at 32768Hz.

Speaking of, is there any quartz movement running at a higher frequency than this? Or was there just no point in going further since temperature & other factors affected accuracy more?
>>
>>59031730
Why would anyone purchase a "luxury" quartz watch?
>>
>>59031774
Not all quartz movements are made equal, just as with mechanical movements. Read up on the rolex oysterquartz which had thermal compensation in them (like seiko's 9F movements do too).
>>
>>59031730
>>59031774
I bet the luxury watch market was LOVING the invention of quartz when it first came out.

>LOL NOW WE CAN PUT CHEAP CHINESE SHIT THAT COST $1 EACH IN OUR WATCHES AND HAVE THEM BE PERFECTLY ACCURATE AND WE'LL STILL CHARGE $5,000

I bet their faces were red when the world rejected quartz.
>>
>>59031002
Someone should invite May here.
>>
>>59031793
all that money and they still couldn't put a sweeping seconds hand?

It's not impossible with quartz: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKoL2Ucrn4I
>>
>>59031730
Bulova precisionist at 262 khz. 32,768 is commonly used though because it's a 16 bit signed int I would imagine.
>>
>>59031822
The problem is the sweeping seconds eats batteries. IIRC the accutron II runs at 16Hz to simulate the smooth sweep. The beta21 movement runs at 256Hz.
>>
>>59031815
I'd love to see his entire collection, at least.
>>
>>59031774
to add to
>>59031793

Breitling, Seiko and Rolex all make (or made) ultra-high end quartz movements that are chronometers capable of handling temperature changes without getting their shit fucked up and affecting their otherwise good accuracy, as well as just being more accurate in general due to precision cuts and other space magic stuff I don't really understand when they make the quartz crystal.
>>
cop?
>>
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>>59031641
>100% of a watch's value is in the movement
>>
>>59031859
The watch hobbiest community rightfully stuck up their middle finger to quartz and everyone has gone back to mechanical now.

A quartz movement is easy and simple to make and takes no production effort, and Luxery watch makers wouldn't have lowered their price to reflect this.

If Quartz took off, we'd still be buying $5,000 Rolex Submariners and the mountain jews would be laughing even hard on their way to the bank than they do now.
>>
>>59031884
90% of it is. Unless you're a fashion watch fag.
>>
>>59031889
>If Quartz took off

It already did m8. Most normies just have a quartz watch (if any).
>>
>>59031641
there are probably levels of QC even if it was an identical movement

A+ Seiko JDM
B Seiko Other
C Seiko OEM to be resold
etc.
>>
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>>59031860
Yes. The factory strap is said to be not too good, but the watch will look even better on a Seiko bracelet.
>>
>>59031915
Normies aren't proper watch people though.
>>
>>59031935
it doesn't look right

the reason I never bought an Al Penis is because any strap or bracelet you put on it looks strange
>>
>>59031940
Sure, but I wouldn't question whether or not quartz has taken off when it self-evidently has since its inception.
>>
>>59029519

A deep and prolonged sense of shame, buyers remorse and regret? If not you should.
>>
>>59031953
It's not taken off in the luxury watch market is what I'm saying. Despite Rolex and Omega trying to push it (due to the potential cost cutting and increased profits) But watch hobbiests told them to get fucked.

We all know that Rolex and Omega watches have ridiculous mark ups and aren't worth what they cost to produce, but if they were all quartz now they'd be even less worth their price.
>>
>>59028723

As if. More like fashion brands and whatever mountain Jew brands are most heavily marketed to normies (e.g. TAG, Tissot, Hamilton, Omega, Brietling).

The single most Reddit tier watch in existence is the Omega MOTFM. It's such a cliche over their that they make fun of how much of a cliche it is themselves.
>>
>>59031976
Right, that's true.

I vaguely remember in the jean claude biver ep of talking watches he mentioned how he thought mechanical watches would make a comeback after the quartz crisis (partly why blancpain never had a quartz watch).
>>
>>59029723

Haven't you seen the magazine adds with John Travolta and his plane? That's why.
>>
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>Someone trying to tell me on reddit that a seiko that keeps to within 2 seconds a day isn't keeping as good time as a Rolex that keeps to within 2 seconds a day
>>
>>59031976
Seiko pushed it and nowadays fashion watches are also considered luxury.
>>
>>59032080
Remind him that a F91-W is more accurate than his rolex
>>
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>>59031987
>The single most Reddit tier watch in existence is the Omega MOTFM. It's such a cliche over their that they make fun of how much of a cliche it is themselves.

A quintessential reddit-tier watch would probably be some boring shitter Seiko (no offense to the Seiko owners here) or some dogshit hipster garbage like NOMOS.

I would say ArchieLuxury is the 4chan of the watch community (even mentioning his name gets you banned on the Rolex forums, he's an unapologetic NEET, australian shitposter, actually believes in promoting quality over shitters, gives zero fucks about his social positioning and says whatever pops into his head,doesn't do shit for free, etc.) and therefore his recommended watches would qualify as 4chan-tier watches. These would include anything by JLC or Patek, the steel sports Rolex/Tudors, and the Omega MOTFM.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yOehoRTbLs
>>
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>>59032086
Do Seiko make quartz watches? I thought they produced most of their quartz watches under Lorus, their cheaper brand.

>>59032100
But you gotta look at that positional variation bro!

>Says a Seiko will gain 14 seconds if you place it crown down while a Rolex wont
>Implying people have a habit of storing their watches crown down
>>
>>59032118
What's wrong with crown down?
>>
>>59032112
nah he's not 4chan solely for the reason he puts reputation/brand romance over everything else like a normie

he's basically a brainless consumer on steroids (which explains why he's gone bankrupt buying pointless status symbols he can't afford)
>>
>>59031449

Wow. I did not know that their in-house chronograph was a column wheel, vertical clutch chrono. That's really cool actually.
>>
>>59032118
crown position recording must be the most autistic thing ever. I mean who the fuck cares. Wear it like it's supposed to be.
>>
>>59032150
Don't most people store their watches flat?

Any, way the point I'm getting at is the ridiculousness of saying "well my seiko is bad because when it is stored crown down it gains 14 seconds".

It's like those old comedy sketches where the man does to the doctor and says "doctor it hurts when I do this" and the doctor replies "don't do that then".
>>
>>59031720

You've never handled a watch with a high standard of case, dial and bracelet finishing before. The difference is obvious in person.
>>
>>59032173
If you need a macro lens to tell the difference I don't think it's worth it.
>>
>>59032188
>If you need a macro lens

You don't. Of course there are overpriced shitters that don't actually put in the effort into making a well finished piece, but that's a different story.
>>
>>59032165
t. a foolish individual
>>
>>59032188
Finishing on a watch is equally as important in my opinion as internals. When you come across a watch of high quality finishing, including the type of metal that is used, you know.

>>59032171
It's just general autism on /wt/ what else is new?
>>
Why do I still want a speedy even though I'm fully aware it's got a movement that isn't particularly unique or luxurious and an fully aware 80% of the price is branding
>>
>>59032239
Just get a used speedy and don't spend too much then. It's not a bad watch at all.
>>
>>59032154
>nah he's not 4chan solely for the reason he puts reputation/brand romance over everything else like a normie

His favorite watch is his Explorer II (which he says is a lifetime keeper and that he will never sell) which is a fucking dog that no one wants, let alone recognizes.

I remember him saying in an old video that he can't even wear modern Rolexs just because of how passe they are. It seems he likes them for personal reasons, and his snobbery is mostly self-contained and not "look at my flashy Hublot!!1!1!".
>>
>>59032202
>>59032221
Crack out a polishing wheel and the finish on your watch is as good as you want it to be.

Expensive cases just spend more time with the polisher, cheap mass produced cases can't afford a 1 hour polish session.
>>
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Post white faced blue handed watches.
>>
>>59032265
>Crack out a polishing wheel and the finish on your watch is as good as you want it to be.

It's going to be shit if you're inexperienced. But then you already knew that.
>>
>>59032112
>Dogshit hipster garbage like NOMOS

Not this idiocy again. Nomos is literally the only production watch maker to have made the required investments to develop the capacity to design and produce complete in-house movements (including escapements) since the quartz revolution.

On this basis alone, anyone interested in horology is obligated to defend them.
>>
>>59032265
Well, no. The type of metal used can make a big difference. Especially in terms of durability and a nice weight. You're right to a point though.
>>
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>>59032269
'Kay
>>
>>59032239
>it's got a movement that isn't particularly unique

Well that's factually untrue. Manual wind chronographs are rare, and it's based on the Lemania 321 which was a top notch movement and definitely differentiates it from all of the Valjoux 7750-chronographs that dominate the market.
>>
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>>59032269
oddly specific
>>
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Are Seagull watches any good?

Judging by the price of their lineup they have decided they're not just a Chinese shitter company making fake and selling their movements to other shitter companies anymore.

Their current lineup only has watches over $300 and watches like this are $800.

They even make watches costing several thousand.
>>
>>59032297
I mean in the fact that it's a 19 jewel non hacking manual wind chronograph.

There are tons of those on the market. And it's not really that special beyond being a manual chrono.
>>
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>>59032269
>>
>>59032326
Is hacking even that important on a chrono?
>>
>>59032339
You're never going to time anything more complicated than a boiled egg once a week. So the thing that your chrono will be doing 90% of the time is telling the time. And hacking is important generally for all watches.

I have a non hacking manual wind chronograph but I paid $300 for it. A speedy is $5,000

I still want one but they're terribly overpriced for what they are.
>>
>>59032118
Like half of what they make is quartz.
>>
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>>59032269
>>
>>59032280
I've seen you in the thread for the last couple days and I see that you have some valid and some invalid points to your argument. That being said, nothing wrong with looking at other blue handed white faced watches just for fun. Try to relax :)
>>
>>59032290
Anyone own a Celadon?
>>
>>59032310
Is that yours?
>>
>>59032378
At least 3 people who visit these threads do, including lawyeranon.
>>
Why is it that anything round eye can do the Japanese can do for cheaper?
>>
>>59032311
Although people don't recognize them as big as other manufactures like ETA, Sea-gull is one of the biggest movement makers in the world.
>>
>>59032395
https://youtu.be/96iJsdGkl44
>>
What are the best places to buy online in the US?
>>
>>59032370
Beautiful thank you. Is it yours? If so, how much did you pay?
>>
>>59032280
>Seiko does in house movements
>Orient does in house movements

you don't see anyone wanking them don't we
>>
When people say that a watch is "losing 10 seconds after 24 hours" do they mean that they set their time and then after 24 hours it's 10 seconds behind, then the next day still 10 seconds?

Or do they mean 10 seconds behind, 20 seconds behind, 30 seconds behind etc?
>>
>>59032391
Well if anyone can make a statement on them I would love to listen. They're a brand I don't know a lot about
>>
>>59032416
desu i wouldnt even notice even if it was like 5 minutes off.
>>
>>59032416
TL note: 'losing' means it's slow, 'gaining' means it's fast.

The rate might note be so consistent, I'm sure you can look up day to day accuracy graphs people make to see the change in rate. Lots of factors go into the accuracy day to day.
>>
>>59032413

It isn't mine, I just choose a real world picture because it shows off the finishing better.
>>
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>>59032435
>Not having a atomic clock synced clock in your room
>>
>>59032448
lol the most i usually try to match ups is the minute hand.
>>
>>59032457
You need to increase your autism son
>>
>>59032389
Yes. My great-great-grandfather robbed a train conductor at gunpoint during the Great Depression. Ended up being passed down to me when I turned 18.

Still runs great.
>>
>>59032463
noty
>>
where is fedex with my watch reeee
>>
>>59032269
I have this one and the Citizen grand classic. It's a look I quite fancy.
>>
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>>59032470
>My great-great-grandfather robbed a train conductor at gunpoint during the Great Depression.
>>
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Hmmmmm CAN'T DECIDE WHICH ONE TO WEAR THIS CALCULATOR WATCH IS JUST TOO SEXY
>>
>>59032517
calculator watch or an orient homage...
>>
>>59032350
Speedy Pros are overpriced due to the whole Moon thing, but let's not forget they're also very specialized tool watches. Specialized because NASA can't be assed to reevaluate the Speedmaster with a new model.
>>
>>59032530
That squale is original design and the only reason other cases look like this are because squale made the case or its an homage of the iconic squale case from the 50s
>>
>>59032564
>this final fantasy titled clone is the original
>>
>>59032549
>they're also very specialized tool watches

Wouldn't anyone that actually wanted to time anything use quartz?
>>
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>>59032530
>implying an original case design from an esteemed watch case manufacturer is an homage to fucking orient of all things
>>
>>59032448
I set all my watches off of an atomic G-Shock that I wear on my ankle at all times
>>
>>59032575
A speedy only times things up to 12 hours. Perhaps if you're timing something long enough for the movement to be off by a second or two, it might be longer than those 12 hours. Just saiyan.
>>
>>59032574
Shut the fug up with your moronic snobbery you misinformed poor fag, go fap to your bambino
>>
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>>59032578
dude, we get it, you liked the mako but wanted something more expensive.
>>59032600
>buys an expensive homage to a cheap watch
>calls others snobs
>>
>>59032575
>Wouldn't anyone that actually wanted to time anything use quartz?

Yes but mechanical watches make a nice backup as their shit can't be fucked by electro-magnetic pulses or the battery leaking acid and causing massive problems inside a spaceship.
>>
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>>59032578
>>
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>>59032517
Does the SKWAAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLEEEEEE engraving on the side bother you?
>>
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>>59032642
you rang?
>>
Just bought my first luxury watch what you think?
>>
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>>59032743
>>
>>59032372

I am relaxing. The reason I talk about watches here instead of anywhere else is the ability to yell at bad opinions.

>>59032415

Vostok, Orient, Seiko, ETA, and Rolex developed the ability to series produce complete in-house movements (including escapements) well before the quartz revolution.

Nomos is literally the only production watchmaker to have developed this capacity after the quartz revolution. Their success could encourage others to make the investments required to develop this capacity themselves and could help take the modern non-hacking horlogerie industry away from being filled to the brim with Miyota, Seiko and ETA powered shitters.
>>
>>59032642
It's bad enough that Invicta pulls that shit; in a watch that costs hundreds it's utterly reprehensible.
>>
>>59032757
>tfw you love the Tangente but want a date window
>tfw the Stowa is $1k cheaper, but the window is in a dumb place
>tfw the Rider is <$200 and has it in a better spot

why do they do this
>>
>>59032757
>developed this capacity after the quartz revolution.

What's the significance of this
>>
>>59032642
>>59032772
:^ )
>>
>>59032757
I can hardly wait to have more brands with mediocre finishing and bland designs charge me kilobucks just because they're making their own movements, that's certainly a trend worth encouraging.
>>
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>>59030498
>>59030841
>>59030675
>>
>>59032757
Zenith did this after the quartz revolution when they churned out El Primero ebauches for Rolex when they switched away from the Valjoux 7750 in the Daytona.
>>
>>59032780

Twofold:

Firstly the overwhelming majority of the production watch industry stopped giving a fuck about the development and engineering of mechanical movements after quartz become widespread. They deliberately choose to instead focus on marketing and developing the perceived "prestige" of their brands and to just purchase their movements from an existing seller.

They saw no point in investing in movement design and manufacture when investing those dollars in marketing instead would move more units at a larger margin.

Secondly, it has become much more expensive to develop the capacity to design and manufacture complete movements (including escapements) because you cannot start off by making poorly QC'd 18,000bph movements accurate to +-60s/day like you could in the 1950s or 1960s and slowly work your way up to producing high quality movements. Today you have to hit the ground running and that requires a large investment in R&D and equipment.

Nomos spent €11 million on developing the capacity to manufacture their own escapements and another €2.5 million developing their newest movement. These are enormous capital investments for a company selling 10,000-20,000 pieces annually.

>>59032817

Yes, instead feel free to wallow in Miyota, Seiko and ETA powered shitters with Chinese made cases.
>>
>>59032892
What about Christopher Ward
>>
>>59032892
>implying Nomos is somehow superior to ETA or Japanese movements

lel you're just wanking the manufacture meme

>>59032911
british invicta
>>
Any opinions on Hamilton? Like the Jazzmaster
>>
>>59032852

Zenith developed the capacity to manufacture complete movements, including escapements, prior to the quartz revolution.

>>59032911

Christopher Ward, like Frederique Constant and most other modern production watch makers who have newly developed in-house movements source their escapements and varying percentages of their components from outside suppliers.

Nomos makes their own escapements, including hairsprings now. They can design movements with complete freedom from having to conform to existing parts supplies.
>>
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NATO finally came through :)
>>
>>59032892
>you cannot start off by making poorly QC'd 18,000bph movements accurate to +-60s/day like you could in the 1950s or 1960s and slowly work your way up to producing high quality movements. Today you have to hit the ground running

Wouldn't it be easier because of computers
>>
>>59032423
I have a Celadon. What do you want to know?
>>
>>59032378
>>59032423
I do too.
I got the Peacock - like the other anon said, just ask.
>>
>>59032965
>Horology is a meme
Just buy a tried and true, accurate, cheap Ronda powered Fossil and get it over with.
>>
>>59032965

You are misunderstanding my point.

An increase in the number of fully independent production watchmakers is good for the market even if you and I personally have no interest in their watches.

There is nothing wrong with movements from Seiko, Miyota and ETA in their own watches but it's bad for people interested in horology when the industry is dominated by companies slapping ebauches into Chinese made cases.

Personally, I prefer Seiko to Orient, Citizen, and ETA and would buy a Grand Seiko over a Rolex or a Nomos.

That isn't the point though. The point is that as a fan of horology in general and of high-end production automatic movement specifically, it's good to see another maker succeed after making the investments required to become a fully independent maker and I hope it encourages MORE companies to do it.
>>
>>59033080
Holy shit, another peacock owner. I was beginning to think I was the only one.
>>
>>59033082
>not getting the point
>implying manufacture isn't a buzzword anyway
>>
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>>59033080
>>59033102
Can you give a short rundown of the watch and brand? I really don't get the 7000usd pricetag. It just looks like a stamped dial and blued hands
>>
>>59033024

Sure, if you are willing to invest the money. That's the issue. It cost Nomos ~€11 million and multiple years to do it.

>>59033110
>I'm a watch pleb totally uninterested in horology
>So you should be too!

Listen, if you are fine with giving your money to companies that spend more on marketing than manufacturing then good for you, but some do us actually really do care about horology.
>>
>>59032269
>>
>>59033132
It's a Chinese brand owned by Benjamin Chee HH. The entire watch is basically produced at Beijing Watch Factory, as far as I know.
>7000
Wrong pricetag.
For the Imperial I it's ~900USD.

If there's a price of 7000USD on any watch, it's probably 'the Celestial' where you can get a customized silk-stitched dial, or micro enamel painting of the like.
>>
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>>59032269
Probably my favorite.
>>
>>59033080
How big is it lug2lug? Its very pretty
>>
>>59033172
>still can't answer how nomos movements are superior to eta, miyota or seiko
>still can't justify the price increase
>implying they aren't just retooled movements from previous existing ones

lmao you're the one falling marketed terms like 'manufacture'
>>
>>59033208
~45mm
>>
>>59033239
Wow thought it would be way bigger. Probably getting this next desu.
>>
>>59032743
No, no you didn't. You posted another render of another watch you don't own
>>
>>59033281
Is t b h actually filteret? Wtf
>>
>>59033299
Yep, desu
>>
Itt, autists complaining that quality watches are made for a low price with good and reliable ETA movements. Bb-but it's not in h-house. Surprise motherfucker, except for you turboautists nobody is willing to pay 1000$ for muh in-house movements. Having 10 different standards is BAD for the consumer because of repair ability and pricing.

Lots of kike brands are overcharging yes, but you can just ignore those "prestige" brands and go for more affordable watches.
>>
>>59033219
>Pretending that plugging your ears and yelling "LALALALLALALA" is an argument.

Feel free to actually try and engage the points raised, if you feel up to it. Otherwise feel free to continue mindlessly shitposting since you are incapable of debating the substance.
>>
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So you can get a $2,000 tourbillon now
>>
>>59033326

And finally we have the poorfag whining that watches with any horological value whatsoever are too expensive and that it hurts this normie Esquire reader's fee fees that his ETA 2824-2 powered shitter gets no respect.
>>
>>59033340
>still can't refute the points laid out

lel enjoy your overpriced circlejerk blog watch
>>
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Post watches more accurate than a Rolex
>>
>>59033443
Rolex are shitters anyways because they spent money on advertising
>>
>>59033423
>>59033465

You already admitted that all your shitposting is just resentful poorfag whining here >>59033326, so I don't see why you feel the need to continue shitting up the thread.

Just go away you booty blasted shitter owner.
>>
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>>59033443
>>
>>59033014
Looks great my man, nice taste
>>
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>>59033443
>THE MOST REDDIT-TIER WATCH EVER
>>
What should I know about maintaining and storing an automatic before I get my first?
Whay position to put it in, where to keep it.etc
>>
>>59033542
Put it in a box. The storage position depends on the watch. Store it in all positions and find out which ones gain seconds, which ones lose seconds and then you can keep the watch on time by storing it in the needed position each night.
>>
>>59033542
They are best stored sideways in your butthole
>>
>>59033378
Wow, impressive. But $2,000 on a risky chinker isn't for me.
>>
>>59033595
The movement isn't that great apparently, it can lose or gain 10 seconds a day.

But then I went and checked the stats on $50,000 tourbillon watches that quoted the same stats. So it's "normal" for a tourbillon watch.

Apparently Tourbillons are a meme and, at best do nothing to help accuracy, and at worst hinder it.

Apparently Seagull will also service it for 15 euros.
>>
>>59033478
>I'm btfo
>nonsensically link a reply and claim victory

(You)
>>
>>59032112
I agree
>>
>>59033895
>Pretending >>59033326 wasn't you

It's OK to admit that you are just angry because your "affordable luxury" "Swiss made" ETA 2824-2 powered shitter has zero horological or resale value.
>>
>>59032112
i bet youre the guy who linked an archie video as an argument when it literally didn't even address the argument. dudes literally an autistic faggot that should be on hot wheels site instead.
>>
>>59032780
Literally nothing.
>>
What does archie do for a living to afford all those watches?
>>
>>59034078
he literally finances them iirc
>>
>>59034078
begging on the internet and being a happy chrono24 merchant I assume
>>
>>59033378
you can get a 350 dollar tourbillon now senpai.
>>
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>>59033208
Picture for you~
At the moment I just use a blue croc strap, though.
>>
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>>59033219
>implying they aren't just retooled movements from previous existing ones

No, you ignorant cretin, they are not.
>>
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>>59034425
How long till they stop buying shockspring assemblies from Incabloc for their "complete in-house movements (including escapements)"?
>>
>>59034078
>What does archie do for a living to afford all those watches?
He doesn't.

He flips all of his watches.
>>
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>>59034016
>>
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>>59034536
there's literally only a handfull of brands that do shocksystems in house.
patek, lange, vc, jlc, audemars, mb&f, greubel forsey, dufour, debethune, voutillainen , etc. all use either incabloc or KIF. for as far as i know only citizen, seiko, orient and beat haldimann (and russian movements ofc) have their own shocksystems.
>>
>>59034281
That's very nice, is that also 900$?
>>
>>59034693
Yep!
>>
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>>59034611
whoa shit
>>
>>59034673
So Nomos isn't actually completely in-house, right?

Also don't forget Rolex with Paraflex.
>>
Why do Rolex forums not like Archie?
>>
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>>59034954
Why would anyone unironically like him?
He's completely unlikable.
>>
>>59033068
What made you decide to purchase it? How much did it run you and what about it stands out as being worth the money. Pics if you have any would be really appreciated
>>
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>Been waiting all day for fedex to deliver a watch
>ETA sometime before 18:00
>LITERALLY been in the house all day
>Get an update just now about a failed deliver at 1PM
>No missed delivery note

WHAT THE FUCK
>>
>>59034954
>>59035002
Archie is good for one thing, value buying on the second hand market. You might not like him or his insane ramblings or ladyboy fetish but most of the watches he recommends are well liked and respected pieces that do hold their value.

As for everything else he spouts, disregard entirely
>>
>>59035108
Call them. Tell them that the driver submitted a failed delivery online but never came to your house.
>>
>>59035108
I feel sorry for you, anon.
I know your pain.
>>
>>59035124
they close at 1800
>>
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>>59035117
>You might not like him
And there we go.
>>
>>59035152
So is it already past there then?
>>
>>59033387
Except it does you retard? Go to any any fucking WUS thread and see what they think about ETA made watches. Hint (most are not about the super awesome perpetual blablabla watch)

You people are what's the problem, you're paying 2000$+ for a piece of metal that is smaller then your fucking hand. How retarded can you be? And to make it even better once it breaks you can bend over and let watch maker fuck you hard to fix it? And these more expensive "movements" offer jack shit over an ETA 2824-2 watch.

Bbut they are more accuratte. No they are fucking not, do some damn research, any watch that has a COSC certification will be on par. And yes there are ETA's with cosc you dense motherfucker.

Hurrr muh significant horological value, what fucking value are you talking about? 90% of watches are quartz and more accurate then any shitty mechanical watch in comparison. Furthermore swatch group owns pretty much every fucking watch company there is and they all use ETA-xxxx movements. ETA is also one of the only movements that has a proven track record of over a 100 years. So in that sense it's a lot more significant that all those other "new" and "improved" movements.

>Muh poor
Poor? Why don't you own a 2000$ solid gold pen anon?
Are you poor, or would that just be a dumb decision to buy?

> Normie
Most normies give exactly 0 shits unless you are wearing a Rolex and they will prob think it's fake. And all the rest wear accurate, dependable quarts watches. None of that mechanical fuckery you're jerking off too.
>>
>>59035108
It's not like you're doing anything tomorrow anyways
>>
>>59035173
I think it's implied that, yes, it is.
>>
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>Manage to call up Fedex on a random number
>They say they'll put through a message to redeliver it
>Put a message through to the driver
>Right that will take 24 to 48 hours so you may get it tomorrow

WHAT THE FUCKING FUCK IT'S SUPPOSED TO BE DELIVERED TODAY WHAT THE FUCK DOES I ***MIGHT*** GET IT TOMORROW THE DRIVER SHOULD BE DRIVING TO ME THIS VERY SECOND
>>
>>59035212
I think if it were already closed it would not be
>they close at 1800
it would be
>they closed at 1800
or
>they're closed

I was trying to suggest to anon that even if they're not already closed he should call. And even if it's only just passed closed he should probably still try calling.
>>
>>59035265
Did you really not understand that anon, or are you just being a fucking autist?
>>
>>59035189
You must be great at parties.
>>
>>59035189
>>59035189
Haha it looks like youv'e Been triggered my friendo lol xD
>>
>>59035260
Need to put your foot up their ass, man.

Also, who sent it? A company or private person?

You can always include them on an email or something to fedex letting them know the problems. If they're a good vendor they're often be angry with the parcel service.

And sometimes the sender has more ability to pressure the parcel service, because, after all, they are the one paying, and the one the parcel service would need to refund.
>>
Homos fag sure shut the fuck up after bringing up that Homos buys their shocksprings.
>inb4 you reply "no no no, I was doing other things in my basement"
>>
>>59035318
I bought it from a watch shop in the netherlands.
>>
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>>59035161
I'm from NZ, I find it hilarious to watch a fat aussie sperg out about absolute shit. Youtube is for entertainment no?

TGV is okay I just hate how every single watch he talks about he says "I'm going to get me one of those" or "That is definitely my next purchase" yada yada I buy the world bullshit.
>>
>>59035357
Yeah, see if they'll help you tear these fuckers a new asshole over not doing their delivery job.
>>
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>>59035367
Great blogpost, anon.
>>
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>>59035189
Just like clockwork, they all end up resorting to the same old arguments.

Take your Invicta or Despicable Me 2 quartz shitter and get the hell out of here
>>
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>>59035189
>Being this much of a bootyblasted horological pleb

Calm down autismo, your spaghetti's all over the thread already.

Maybe WUS or /r/watches would be more your speed? I'm sure they'll be much more welcoming of your deep affinity for horologically worthless outsourced ETA shitters with good marketing.

They might even respect the "prestige" you threw away money on.
>>
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>>59034913
im not sure about the in-house thing.
i guess technically but its such a small thing it doesnt really matter. i think there also might be some sort of option to buy machines that produce them from KIF/incabloc so you can make them ''manufacture''
>>
>Much COSC

I have a $100 seiko that meets COSC standards but isn't certified.

Why do people care about it?
>>
>>59035418
>heh, just wait until this guy sees my smug Anime collection!
>>
>>59035477
Sure, just like completely in-house escapements and hairsprings matter little as well, but Homos-fag will never admit that.
>>
>>59035499
Unless you've tested it in 5 positions and 3 temperatures, it's probably just running within cosc standard deviation as you use it in your daily life, and not actually operating at all facets of cosc standard.
>>
My ETA movement is within 5 seconds of accuracy a day, why are they bad?
>>
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>>59035541
How'd you know?
>>
>>59035340

So you are arguing that Patek Phillipe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Girard Perregaux, Piaget, Zenith, and so on do not produce in-house movements then?

Be serious now.
>>
>>59035559
>it's probably just running within cosc standard deviation as you use it in your daily life

Exactly his point ...
>>
>>59035559
Well that;s good because I don't plan on being in 5 different positions at 3 temperatures
>>
>>59035450
>>59035474
If you actually care about precision time keeping along with engineering you'd be dabbling with quartz and realize mechanical--while impressive--is at best a niche luxury.
>>
>>59035570
Not 100% if they buy shocksprings. Also I believe a lot buy hairsprings too.

But irl this matters little.
>>
>>59035582
His point was that it meets "cosc standard." And the only way to know that would be to test it, not just wear it and record time lost/gained.
>>
>>59035562

They aren't, at least not necessarily. As long as the pricing is reasonable and the rest of the watch is well made there is nothing wrong with ETA movements.

No one is arguing the movements are inherently bad, just that diversity in movement makers is good. Watchmakers actually investing in developing new and improved mechanical movements (instead of just continuing to make old designs) is good, especially at production watch pricepoints.
>>
>>59033997
>implying Nomos has better value than ETA

lmao all they have to do is stamp manufacture on their boring tinny cases and you'll pay up 2000EU more than their actual value
>>
My watch only loses 1 second a week, is it good?
>>
>>59035658
Design wise? No.
Functionality, which is the theme of these threads, yes.
>>
>>59035658
Honestly that's probably expected to get ≥1 minute per month deviation.
>>
>>59035189
this guy honestly BTFO all the wankers in this thread
>>
>>59035658
Looks like it has a Timex-style backlight too, definitely cop.
>>
>>59035683
The theme of these threads is technology (ideally.) Technology can be done for functionality. Technology can be done just for the sake of technology.
>>
Nomos watches look like fashion watches but at least fashion watches only cost $100
>>
>>59035597

Horology is interesting precisely because developing methods of timekeeping using only springs and gears is an interesting engineering challenge.

>>59035598

They may still purchase shocksprings, but in standard horological usage that does not preclude calling them an in-house movement maker, since as I pointed out, no one contests referring to haute horlogerie brands that use incabloc that way.
>>
File: Casio_F-91W_82T38575.jpg (1MB, 3000x1987px) Image search: [Google]
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>1/10th of a second chronograph with slit time function
>Calendar
>Never needs to be serviced just needs a new battery every 7 years from a lad on t'market for a few bob.
>More accurate than any Rolex, Omega, Brietling or Patek Philippe

Entire swiss watch industry btfo
>>
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>>59035548
>>59035639
>>59035699
>>59035794
>Samefagging this hard
>Shitting up an entire thread with your sperging

Just stop.
>>
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>>59035858
Cool they have those too
>>
>>59035888
Posting false shit isn't an argument.
>>
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Anyone else a fan of MeisterSinger here?
>>
>>59035960
Which bit was false?
>>
>>59035960
What about that is false?
>>
>>59035969
Yes. They are lovely.
>>
>>59035969
Ah yes the "I'm so rich I never need to be on time for anything watch."
>>
>>59036075
You can tell time in 5 minute intervals.
So yeah, I'd probably be able to tell time anyway, and make my meetings.
It's okay to not like single-hand watches, but your argument is shit.
>>
>>59035888
See
>>59028723
>>
So what does TGV do to afford so many watches?
>>
Actually, while we are talking ETA, does anyone know how the ETA 2892-A2 performs and what it offers over a standard ETA
>>
>>59035902
>samefagging
The go-to defense of the BTFO autist.
>>
File: Roman_Sundial-HD285-B_0.jpg (412KB, 833x600px) Image search: [Google]
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>Literally cannot lose any seconds ever until the sun explodes

Watches btfo
>>
>>59036139
A lot of cocks. Mountains of them
>>
>>59036188
The other three could be Samefagging baka.
>>
>>59036206
except as Earth's rotation slows down and eventually becomes tidally locked with the sun, then it'll always be the same time. 2/10 watch, would not tell time on.
>>
>>59036206
night/10
>>
>>59036328
>Needing to tell time at night

That's when you're asleep anon
>>
>>59036181

The ETA 2892-A2 has much better inherent accuracy than the ETA 2824-2 and does not have the 2824-2's weakness of excessive wear from handwinding.

The ETA 2892-A2 was developed in the 1970s as ETA's contribution to the crop of high-end series produced automatic movements that came out in the last few ears before the quartz revolution, along with Omega's 56x/75x series, Seiko's 52xx series, and Rolex's 3035.

And, in light of how much of a marketing driven meme Omega's modern day implementation of the co-axial escapement turned out to be, i would still rate a top grade ETA 2892-A2 over an Omega 8500.

Here are a couple of links on the subject:

http://www.chronometrie.com/eta2892/eta2892.html

https://musingsofawatchaddict.wordpress.com/2016/09/05/seiko-scvk001-the-start-of-the-seiko-4s-family/
>>
>>59035988
>>59035989
>>More accurate than any Rolex, Omega, Brietling or Patek Philippe

Well, put simply, all of those companies produce more accurate watches. Especially breitling. F91W is +-30 per MONTH. Breitling can sell you a watch rated to +-15.5 seconds per ANNUM. F91W is like 23x as inaccurate.
>>
>>59036139
>Born in London TGV is the son of a british aristocrat and an italian doctor. He was raised in both countries and has traveled extensively to many exciting international cities. While studying in florence, italy, he fell in love with a New Yorker, and subsequently moved to New York City where he currently resides and works in music, film production and engineering.

>From the sophistication, prestige and heritage of the british establishment to the rich dolce vita of gritty, working class neighbourhoods of italian tenements, TGV has had access to two exciting and polar opposite worlds. This has given TGV a truly unique insight and refreshing outlook on life, style and culture.
>>
>>59036379
Wow thank you for the reading material too
>>
>>59036397
What happens if you drop the Breitling
>>
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>>59035912
The ETA 955 family is one of those few modern quartz movements that are actually aesthetically pleasing.

>>59036181
It's a category above the 2824, being completely different from it (I believe it's a descendant of some Eterna movement made when it was a part of ETA). Never owned one, but from what I gather it's a bretty gud upper range movement.

>>59036206
What if the tectonic plate which the sundial is placed on moves? Have fun recalibrating it every couple hundred thousand years.

>>59036231
Could, but probably not, dummy.
>>
>>59036413
Maximum cringe.
>>
>>59036425
Then you still have the other three brands, which have watches rated at better accuracy still.
>>
>>59036447
Its the description on his channel trailer lmfao
>>
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>Accurate to 1 second every 10,000 years

Ok this time swiss watch industry well and truly btfo
>>
>>59036139
I think he's been given/loaned many of them as payola for his "reviews."
>>
>>59036499

If only Citizen would make ONE SINGLE radio controlled model that wasn't ghastly. Seriously, Citizen's entire design department should be ritually crucified.
>>
Anyone have a SARB033? Any good?
>>
>not strapping a phone to your wrist displaying time.is

Do you shitters when want to be on time?
>>
>>59036685
>Do you shitters when want to be on time?
Yes?
>>
>>59036685
>Do you shitters when want to be on time?
Yea, it's called being early
>>
How can I best adjust a mechanical watch without a timegrapher, or waiting 12/24 hours between adjustments points?
>>
>>59036964
Quartz transplant
>>
>>59036964
Take it to a watchmaker and have him do it
>>
>>59036964
cellphone app like wildspectra. Or even audio recording software on a computer.
>>
>>59037019
I've never found wildspectra to be anything more than useless, how are you supposed to work it? It never picks up the ticking of my watches.
>>
>>59037046
I think there's a thread on WUS about which settings to use. Are you setting the watch on/near the microphone with the caseback open?
>>
>>59037073
Yeah but the problem is that literally every room in my house is louder than a ticking watch. Even "silent" rooms will have the hum of electric or pipes.
>>
Anyone have a SARB033? Any good?
>>
>>59037019
I tried a bunch of apps, and they all suck balls. Never had any luck.
>>59037005
Like 3 around here, and they want too much money. Plus, my watch is not the best, I already adjusted it twice myself, and its out of sync again. I dont want to pay someone twice a year to do this, I need to be able to easily do this myself and not take 3 days to see the results.
>>
>>59037098
that would make it rough

>>59037133
I know it can also depend on the specific microphone and driver your cellphone uses, some cellphones just wont work.
>>
>>59037146
I tried it with 3 Android phones, none worked well.

Most of these apps are poorly made, and have not been updated in years, or required a payed version to get anything done.
>>
>>59037168
Paid*
>>
You can get timagraph for $120
>>
Did anon who was getting the Seagull 1963 in the post today get it?
>>
>>59037259
Looking to spend $0 on this.
>>
>>59037328
I'm the anon who is incredibly angry at FedEx for claiming I wasn't in when I've been all day. So I didn't get my 1963.

I might ring and ask if I can come correct it tomorrow instead of risk them failing to deliver it again
>>
>>59037342
Like most everything, you can have it done good, fast, or cheap, pick two.
>>
>>59032530
Does /wt/ hate mako/ray ?
Tbh i wanted a cheap diver, love the ray but ended up buying a mako, the bezel is fugly
>>
>>59037794
No. They're Japanese.
/wt/ is pretty simple.
>It's Swiss
It's shit (with few exceptions)
>It's Chinese
It's shit (with few exceptions)
>It's Japanese or Russian
It's great.
>>
>>59037843
That's a rather disingenuous generalization, huge swaths of Seiko and Citizen's catalogs are utter garbage, and slavshit has some extremely questionable QC.
>>
>>59038104
I don't think I've ever, _ever_, seen a Seiko under scrutiny here.
>>
>>59038119
How about the fact that Seiko sell $200 watches in 2017 that don't have hacking and handwinding?
>>
>>59035602
Holy shit no one fucking cares about your specifics. If you're wasting money on a "standard" that you'll never encounter in use then you have autism.
>>
>>59038185
>Holy shit no one fucking cares about your specifics.
Clearly they do, they brought it up.
>>
>>59038222
Your autism can't understand exaggeration?
>>
>>59038307
What was exaggerated?
>>
Make a new thread you fucks
>>
>>59038476
the deed is done

>>59038488
>>59038488

>>59038488
>>59038488
Thread posts: 361
Thread images: 97


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