Replacing a capacitor

>>56419277
>Thinking /g/ knows anything about tech beyond "INSTALL GENTOO" memes and posting riced desktops

Bad news, senpai :(

File: chrome_2016-09-04_04-01-28.png (14KB, 495x316px) Image search: [Google]

14KB, 495x316px

generally with caps you can up the voltage by quite a bit without something going wrong so long as its the same μf. Manufacturers usually put the minimum spec caps to save money. Buy japanese. I prefer [M] or Rubycon

>>56419449
Thanks

Pic in the OP was unrelated to what I'm looking for btw.

This one here below is what I was looking at right now. But it seems it is physically too tall.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/eaton/B1325-2R5106-R/283-2782-ND/1026750

>>56419494
Not that guy, but Ive studied electronic theory.

To be as safe as possible get the exact same cap, no differences.

Although if you can get another cap with the same measurements (Voltage - V, Resistance - Ohms, Farads -F and polarity) you should be ok, but no guarantees.

>>56419277
What device is it and what purpose does the cap serve? Capacitors usually have a high tolerance, i dont think the inner resistance matters in your case.

What kind of device and cap are we talking about, OP?

>>56419449
This.
The capacity (in f) is more important than the voltage, so long as the voltage is at least the same as the original.
You can put a 50v cap in the place of a 12v cap, but don't put a 100μf cap in the place of a 10μf.

This is because the the voltage is a limit, if you feed a 12v cap 5v it will hold 5v. If you feed it 50v it will explode.
Farads, on the other hand, is the capacity, and this is important because a higher capacity will take longer to charge and discharge. If timing is important in the circuit then this difference could fuck everything up.

>>56419521
The thing is, I don't have the full specs right now. When I get it out or take a look at it again is there a part number that would lead me to a spec sheet maybe? I have no way of measuring it once out and it's sort of busted anyway.

I was gonna stick to 2.5V 10F but don't know its' resistance.

>>56419528
It is the original Microsoft Xbox and it is the so called 'clock capacitor ' since it keeps system date and time.

The system actually runs without it just fine. But the date and time have to be set each time it is turned on or reset.

It is know to fail in most revisions of the hardware 9/10 times eventually. So a lot of people have tinkered with it. Most just remove it it seems. Even rip it off and never replace it.

There are many ways around the clock issue when the cap is not present. But I'd rather just replace it.

You might be right about high tolerance in this scenario too, I have read success stories and not one where someone destroyed their system with it. Some even but a battery and diode in there but I don't know how to do that.

>>56419585
I see. Thanks for the easy explanation. I'll just probably stick as close to the original specs as possible. Even though I have read that in this case people have used higher capacitance to have the system keep track of date and time longer.

That's not really important to me. I just don't want to be greated with that setup screen every single time I turn the system on. Which is rarely enough anyway.

>>56419627
>greated
*greeted

>>56419595
So the Capacitor only keeps the clock running, the ESR does not matter at all in this case

>>56419277
The Farad value should match. Less will not work right (similar as if it was failing), higher will put more power strain on the component.

Voltage is a minimum specified value, so anything matching the same Voltage is fine. Higher will also work, but it won't "work better". Higher Voltage caps are more expensive tho.

I don't remember about the ESR, but when in doubt, use caps with the exact same specifications.

>>56419699
Ok, good. It really seems that is all it is tasked with.

>>56419732
Thanks.