What fan configuration should I use /g/?
Also, guts thread.
It's finally coming together. A lot more cable work left, but then all it is is ordering parts.
Cables in the rear. Missing the 24-pin, revised SATA-p, SATA-d, and 2x 6-pin.
Looking pretty good though.
Most likely going to upgrade to a GTX 870 when they release this October. Gonna wait, hopefully EVGA, to release a nice design using a modified reference cooler. Like this one.
I suppose I can wait. No big rush to replace the GPU yet. I'm reusing it from an older build as is-now.
>Random pic, planning on using the Noctua NH-L9i heatsink with one of my red and black Effizio fans
The yellow on the motherboard ended up not matching the UV yellow extensions I made, but I'm too fucking lazy to redo it.
There is also a few other extensions that the heat-shrink didn't quite fit properly that I have to fix at some point.
my sag got worse.
Thanks! I'm not finished yet, but I suspect tempers will be around 35-40C for most parts, with GPU around 50C, and load temps will probably be something in the neighbors hood of 60-70C and probably similar for the GPU, maybe 75C. No over clocking planned, as I'm buying an i7-4771. I'll definitely post more photos of the cables when I'm done with them all. This picture is quite a bit more saturated than it should be. >Phone
I thought about modifying the front to fit an extra intake, but it would break the cleanliness of the case in the front.
Realistically though, it has a decent cooling. One intake with an GPU should relatively cool with no huge overclocks. You can fit an A-I-O for decent CPU over clocking. Or, if you really want some performance, you could always exterior fit a radiator and do a custom loop internally.
Remove all the packaging, put the fans in the case and make sure they're plugged in, both are important to achieve optimum cooling. It's no good having a bunch of stationary fans in the PC and it's equally useless to just have them spinning around inside the box they came in.
I hate my case currently. It's horrible; I got it with a pre-build by a large e-retailer about 3 years ago.
It's a pain put the sides back on, the cable management sucks, I've somehow managed to break the front USB ports, the front sound ports have static and the power button broke for some reason so I'm stuck using the reset button as a power button.
Oh and it has some grill drive-dummies in the front which keep feeling like they're going to fall into the case.
Has anyone here ever moved a computer into a new case? Is it easy?
In Win 901, for M-ITX.
They have a regular ATX version, 904. And I have half the picture in the thread right now, look around!
Oh this is just adorable. Makes me think of my last case. Bit smaller.
>Lian Li PC-Q03
finally one of these threads
why not a smaller case? that looks so weird.
Loving all the m-ITX love lately.
It is quite an exceptional case.
Forgot that was before I had my GPU inside, here's some OC
>Also some fans are inaudible when used at low rpm.
Nothing is inaudible. But 600-700 RPM is pretty damn quiet.
But having 9 fans running at 600-700 RPM, that's gotta combine to some kind of sound.
That was a fun little project. A relative wanted a PC, so I built him this. Was an interesting thing.
>i5 4xxxS (Not sure which, 2.9GHz 65W)
>2x 4GB DDR3 1,333
>ASUS Xonar Essence STX
Hnnnng. Some beautiful itx cases on here. Currently picking parts for a m-itx gaming/htpc/travelpc. Will most likely go Lian Li PC-TU200B and drop a 770 or 290 in there.
What you guys think of Lian Li's new PC-Q36?
>tfw used to have a quad 4.2GHz Phenom2 in a Silverstone FT03
I'd like to have seen BTX take off a bit more. Just match/add something to match with ATX. I'd like to see some M-DTX too.
My 670 in my In Win sags actually. And it's just reference, basically. If you look at this picture, you can see I rigged up an anti-sag-fix. >>43092128
heres the start of my NAS...
gonna underclock and undervolt the fuck outta the P4
Thanks, still not as good as I would have liked. One negative thing I would say about this case is the low amount of cable management points in the rear. Cords on the PSU were a little stiff as well.
You'll get used to the stiffness in cables. My cables are extra fucking stiff with this sleeving over them.
And if you lack tie-downs, use the cable stiffness to your advantage and make it shaped to stay in place. Kind if like here, >>43092109 I only have one tie holding down the 8-pin, one on the front I/O, and one for the SATA power.
One of these days I'm going to paint the hotswap bay
It supports 300mm long cards. I wouldn' get an extra wide card like some of the EVGA classifieds, because you wouldn't be able to close the case.
>Brand new, 3 months since release.
>Concerned about a "modern GPU" fitting
It's a legitimate question whether they can hold beasts like 780
ITX, my friend.
But yeah, it can hold something like a Titan. Just, you will only have a 130mm CPU cooler clearance and as I said, extra wide GPU's won't fit. You have about 17-19mm clearance for side-mounted power connectors.
I'm kind of wanting a pair of extra fans. One near the PSU and the other on the side panel to help the GPU. Any suggestions? If nothing else I'm probably going to splurge on some pointless Noctua Industrials.
What's the deal with the huge gap in the rear? They even make it possible to mount a rad on the outside, I could understand if it went on the inside (but even then without the gap it'd still clear the motherboard). If it wasn't there you could fit a longer graphics card and an extra drive or two.
Build in progress!
Missing RAM/Graphics card/CPU Cooler/sleeved cables and a few cable extensions
my old build had 10
>yfw maxing a 1500w psu
had sli 590s with all 4 GPUs on a serious OC
also the 990x was at 5.0ghz+ for some time
wall load was near 1400w
space wasnt an issue so i went with the cube case
Don't have a pic atm, but I have a question. I'm new to hardware, so be kind.
Sorry in advance for a long post. I suck at making things short.
I built a computer a month ago, and got a GTX 770 and i7-4790. However, I didn't have enough money to actually buy a decent power supply. So I used my old one. It's over 4 years old, and is made by Chieftec. It's 550 watts and 80 Plus. Also, it's been running 24/7 for most of those 4 years.
My new computer is actually running completely fine, and in the 20-30C temperature range. However, if I start a graphics intensive game which makes GPU go at around 1 GHz, it will get hot really fast. When it goes at 500 MHz, it will stay at around 40 C.
What happens is that my computer just kind of turns off after a minute or so. It's still going, but it's basically off. When I turn it entirely off and on again, it cools down in a matter of seconds.
The reason I'm posting this, is because I wonder if there is an actual heat issue or if it's just the power supply.
Again, I'm a beginner, so I might sound retarded. I appreciate any replies though.
As for my new power supply, I'm getting an Corsair AX 760 in August.
You make them yourself supplies from somewhere like en.mdpc-x.com
Or you can search around and buy extensions if you're lazy. From somewhere like NZXT's website.
Corsair sells them for their PSU's too
freezers have low thermal dissipation wattage and rely on insulation to keep food cold
if you put your 500w build in a 50w freezer, the entire freezer will be an oven.
learn to physics you dumb /v/ ricefag.
>muh colorcoordinated guts
>muh $25 4-inch fans
Yeah. Definitely getting the NH-L9i as a heatsink for now. If the temps are too high, then I'll consider something like an H75/H80i. But yeah! Coming together. I modified some of the parts list... (IE, WD Blacks instead of Barracudas, 4771 vs 4970K)
But it's gonna be pretty.
If you look somewhere further up the thread, you'll see a build of mine with all cougars. Two intakes, two exhaust for top mounted H100 and one rear exhaust with a pair of 6950's in Crossfire. No single parts ever went above 70°C
I want to do a completely passive build
since GPU coolers face down, it makes sense to have the heatsink on it facing upwards to allow convection
I don't know if I just want to get a PCIE flex riser and nigger rig the card so the heatsink faces up, or if I want to buy an actual backwards case
the TJ-08 looks really good but it's only microATX, with 4 expansion slots.
Chances are that an aftermarket GPU cooler would take up 3 slots, and I want room for future PCI interfaces.
>PCI SSD? Will they ever be bootable
also, only full ATX motherboards have thunderbolt ports.
You can, but they intend for you to stick it on the outside for some reason (hence the holes for the tubing). If you stick it on the inside you're also limited in thickness, something that wouldn't happen if the gap wasn't there. Also it's going to make plugging stuff into the motherboard more awkward.
I guess my needs are really specific.
I might end up just buying a motherboard tray, a couple sheets of mesh, and making a case myself.
Fucking passive builds need tons of airflow.
My sleeving above is all MDPC-X, using "Shade 19" and "Color-X."
Most boards support RAID well these days. Not sure about fiber NIC, but most but boards also support onboard WiFi too. And any case should work that has a lot of open ventilation/fan mount locations. Just so air can radiator out. Having the card upside won't make a huge difference.
I'm this faggot here
I Googled a bit and found "Zotac Firestorm". I tried underclocking my GPU (Until I get a new power supply, so I can avoid it using too much power for now)
>inb4 that's not how it works
Anyway, it keeps resetting the speed. It just goes back to the stock speed.
Also, I tried setting everything to the minimum, and the driver crashed. I don't know how they made it so you can fuck that up. I mean, it even has minimums!
Yeah, but you have to take the shield off to get to the I/O. Or take off the rear side panel. It's not as bad as you think. The only thing I dislike is how it looks with the radiator exterior to the case.
My friend got the same case and uses his radiator internally, as he doesn't have a large GPU.
So I did some more testing
My computer just turned itself off when GPU was 63C. I am assuming that means it's not overheating.
I have a question though:
How can my power supply handle it for like 5 minutes?
I'm waiting to do muh cable management till I get a second 780
What I mean is, I thought if PC requires more power than PSU can handle, it will immediately turn off? It seems like in my case it can handle it for a little while...
Nobody here who wants to help someone new to hardware?
it probably hit a power spike at 5 minutes and shut down
with the CPU and GPU power consumption jumping up and down according to load, they probably got under heavy load at the same time and it made a peak in the power consumption past what your PSU was rated for.
What's your PSU wattage, and your hardware?
Oh, that makes sense I guess, thanks.
Also, I mentioned the situation earlier, but I'll sum it up:
I'm currently using a GTX 770 and i7-4790 with a 4-year-old 550 watt Chieftec PSU which has almost never been off.
Getting an AX760 soon. I feel like I want something premium after this hell of a month.
>Four year old no-name PSU
There is your issue. Power supplies, especially cheaper ones, lose wattage over the years. You may also just simple not have enough power on the rail for the card.
I tried underclocking my GPU with Zotac Firestorm, but it won't let me apply it. Is there another program that works better? Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but it just resets the clock when I click 'apply'.
You can try unclocking the BIOS. Uninstall the card drivers, and hardware from the device manager. Turn off the PC and remove it. Then try running on the iGPU for a while if you can and see where that gets you until you buy a new PSU.
The AX760 is great. I love mine.
Are you retarded? How does the fan on your CPU heat sink get any airflow with the fucking video card covering it up?
This is elementary fluid dynamics here, holy fuck. You're probably supposed to mount that shit 90 degrees counter clockwise to how you currently have it.
That's actually a Raijintek Ereboss.
Anyway, I didn't know you could remove the odd bay on the Define Mini, but I separated the nails from the bed on both my thumbs, so I'm going to wait a few days before messing with anything.
It sticks out at least 2in over the edge of the gpu and there's 1/2in of clearance between the fan and the gpu itself.
If I mount it ordinarily, the gpu doesn't fit in the first slot.
fuck, I mistook it because of the hole in the center and the weird heatpipe arrangement.
Can you take a picture looking up at the ODD?
Chances are it's held in place with rivets like pic related, and you can drill them out to remove them pretty easily.
Sorry about your fingernails.
Does fapping hurt?
Can I get a straight answer as to what is actually wrong with the EVGA Supernova 1000w G2? People keep saying this, but it's been solid as a rock for me, better in fact, than my old seasonic.
I will concede that my cable sleeving job was bad and I should be ashamed of myself. Maybe I'll have to try again someday.
Fapping actually didn't hurt, I didn't use my thumbs.
And yeah, it's held in with rivets but I'm not going to remove it yet.
I think the entire DVD cage will come off if you remove these two rivets and the ones on the other side, unless it's attached at the front as well as the top.
it looks like its attached at the front too
The sleeve itself is probably fine...
Just do them all. Or mix colors in a sleeve and of one color for one sleeve. Also, use normal heatshrinks color and not really long shrinks. And everything comes out fine.
There's been a steep increase in properly watercooled PC's these last few months.
You're living in the past grandpa.
Cool and hacker as it was, there's really no need for abo-esque unreliable niggerrigged loops with the multitude of warranty backed purpose made parts.
But I am thankful I started in that era.
Though I myself still haven't caught on to this new-fangled angled fitting business. Maybe next time I take it apart I'll think about it.
easy? yes. Will everything still work when you make the swap? Possibly. Will the parts even fit in a standard case. Again, possibly.
Friend of mine had a pre-built HP. Went to swap it all over to a cooler master case and nothing fit. Power supply was a custom size. Motherboard didn't match hole patterns etc.
I also did work on an old HP with a p4 cpu. Cpu fan and heatsink were absolutely disgusting dusty. Unplugged CPU fan from motherboard header and when I plugged it all back in, the motherboard wouldn't allow boot claiming a "CPU fan error has occurred, your PC won't turn on to avoid damage".
HP implemented this to see if customers were voiding their warranties.
oh and also meant to ask.
>Does that i7 bottleneck those cards at all?
Sandy chips still perform well, but some people SWEAR I needed an i7-4790k to not bottleneck my single r9 290.
Pic is mine.
Fair enough. I probably should have watched some tutorials instead of just talking to one guy at microcenter.
Still can't say I see the point in using a custom loop. The CLC I use still keeps me at the same temps and with noctua fans it runs silent anyways. But to each their own.
i believe it does. i believe its a combination of the processor and PCI 2.0. its not too much, though the tripfag cyborg get like 20FPS higher in valley somehow. i try and OC to them moon to keep up.
I had the non-PWM's on a controller. (NZXT Mix)
No problems at any speed.
It's not hard. But go for it.
I'm okay with CLC's. Especially if you don't have space immediately over the CPU socket for a larger/high performance cooler like in my In Win.
I'd like to see a cool one using maybe a 360mm rad and a CPU and GPU block in one CLC. It'd be a pain in the ass to install. But pretty cool.