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Dark Fashion Thread

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Thread replies: 279
Thread images: 68

Some Brands:
>Rick Owens
>Juun.J
>Julius
>Yohji Yamamoto
>Isaac Sellam
>CCP
>Adiciannoveventitre
>Layer-0
>MA+
>Guidi
>Devoa
>The virdi-anne

Where to cop:
>Antonioli
>PNP Firenze
>Hide Munich
>Fascinate.jp
>GULLAM

Let's go
>>
>>12728726
This is not /fa/ circa 2012 anymore.Those posters are gone.
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>>12728726
Damir doma
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>>12728896
If you don't like Avant Garde then don't come into this thread mate ?

>>12728726
I've travelled to Firenze from Sunday to Thursday and visited PNP, hands down the best store I ever visited. Way above Antonioli Torino, Atelier New-York...

My next buy is a pair of Guidi Backzips, can't decide between the regular, high heels or tank sole.

pic related is too nice aswell
>>
>>12728896
This. /fa/ doesn't really care about fashion unless it's cosplaying as sleazy car salesmen, terrorists, nazis or Mac DeMarco.

Anyways. Is it /fa/ to put salt on your food? I'm eating food with somebody later and I don't want them to think I have inferior taste
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>>12728896
Yeah, these threads used to be common. My fa folded rise full of really old inspo
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>>12728926
Did I said that I don't like avangard?
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Is Isaac Sellam worth the price? I really dig the look of this jacket and I'm planning to buy it for this Christmas. Any experience with him?
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>>12728948

In fact I read " posers " instead of " posters ", I'm sorry mate. Still , the reduced community doesn't mean we shouldn't have an /avg/ or /darkfashion/ or whatever

>>12728949
I've tried one of his jacket. The quality is awesome and the designs are unique but for such a statement piece, you should have the matching wardrobe for it to be worth the price
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>>12728949
He worked for CCP afaik, his cuts are amazing and the leather is high quality. I'd say go for it.
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>>12728949
>>
>>12728938
>/fa/ doesn't really care about fashion unless it's cosplaying as sleazy car salesmen, terrorists, nazis or Mac DeMarco.
hit the nail on the head

remember palewave? lmao
>>
>>12728938
it is fun seeing what shitty trends people try to start. Never forget jewelwave
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>>12729023
>>12728997
Fantastic. Thank you. Can't wait to put my hands on it.
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>>12728946
post some good inspo then please
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>>12728726
you left off the two best brands, bbs and leon emanuel blanck
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>>12729244
Fucking jewelwave lol. I'm surprised it didn't take off as much as it could have
>>
>>12728726

You're also missing :

>Individual Sentiments
>Geoffrey B. Small
>Deepti
>Paul Harnden
>Tamanyah
>InAisce
>10SEI10OTTO
>Label Under Construction
>Taichi Murakami

From head. Also Grailed did an interesting post on avant-garde designers but sadly they didn't check their sources so there are some mistakes
>>
>not mixing normie shit like abercrombie and ralph lauren with self-drafted pieces
>>
>>12728726
Are there any good less expensive companies that do similar things? I save up, watch sales, and use grailed, and would love another option. Also my local thrift stores rarely have anything even semi decent
>>
>>12728940
the only problem with this picture is that, having stood in line for adidas drops, none of the people are white
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>>12728926
what makes that fit avantgard?
>>
>>12730074

Leon Louis, First Aid to the Injured, Army of Me, Odeur, Thom Krom.

Keep in mind the designs are usually copy of other avant-garde designers, and the quality of materials, construction and cut is usually sub-par.
>>
>>12730092

I was talking about the jacket only, I really like it . I dont think the fit is avant garde, it's styled by SSENSE so as good as they are, it's more casual or high-end fahion oriented
>>
>>12729431
I am never on my personal laptop, also traveling right now. If this thread is still around when I'm at home and have a moment I will try.
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>>12729431
archive/10
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>>12729134

Holy shit

Boruto's dad-core FW 2017-2018
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>>12730100
thanks anon. I really appreciate it. And don't worry I know the hit im taking in quality/cut/originality.
>>
>>12728938
fresh ground pepper is /fa/ but it's also kinda basic at the same time...how many cracks is most /fa/?
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>>12728726
lol OP didn't include Hot Topic, trash opinion immediately disregarded
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Recently started getting some Julius, finally, after years of wanting it. Thoughts on my first fit I put together? Want to get a pair of Guidi backzips like the other guy, eventually.
>>
>>12731163

Cringe
>>
>>12731163
I like the shirt, love the jacket, not a fan of the trousers and the GATs don't fit the style imo.
>>
Dumping some shit
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>>
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I have this in beige, one of my favs, RO
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>>
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>>12731480
value village $10 bitches
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>>12728726
Thanks for introducing me to fascinate, there blog is p good
>>
You forgot the most interesting brands doing this overdone trope at the moment and actually injecting something exciting that isn't variatons of 2007-core.
>>
>>12731163
Off to a good start. Could do better than GATs like the other anon said.
>>
>>12730533

You're welcome mate. I'd rather buy some better brands quality-wise if I were you. Wait for sales or YJP, Rakuten, Grailed...

>>12730602
3. I prefer to couple it with kosher salt aswell. Who else there is /ck/ ?
>>
>>12731814
Yeah i plan on it. Also follow up question, are there any good sources or videos on dressing in this style? Or even just the basics of it all? I've been very interested in it for a while, but honestly have no idea where to begin, or what the basic Dos and Don'ts are.
>>
>>12728938
Dont put salt on your food. Makes you look stupid
>>
>>12728726
no bbs? for shame
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>>12731376
>>
>>12731996

StyleZeitgeist, avoid the founder though, he's one of the worst persons in the online fashion community. Just lurk
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>>12732085
11 by bbs treads the line with techwear imo
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>>12732075
His name is Faust and he's a manlet irl, like legit 5'5-5'6. My friends saw him in Antwerp some time ago. He's got good pieces but his personality is shit, don't say anything bout him or his friends unless you compliment them or you get the boot.
>>
>>12732090
Definitely
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Also, what do you people think of Geoffrey B. Small?
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>>12729978
And Song for the Mute
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>>12732117
I like the clothes but I've never seen enough of them to make a real decision. To me his stuff just looks like really well-made casual suiting (which is very cool but not affordable at all for me atm)

>>12732141
Some SFTM fits but overall I don't really think they're "avant-garde"
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>>12732117
One of the bests but deffo not my fav.

>>12732095
Yeah him, implying a rancind subhuman like him can have real friends, and not just people sucking his dick to gest a zest of his pseudo internet clout on their lips. It's a shame that such a waste of a human being has such great relations and pieces that he can't style because being a manlet and masturbating to his artisanal fashion pieces made him blind
>>
>>12731996
look at runways
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>>12728896
i revisit /fa/ twice a year maybe, and there's less and less fashion--
it's either non fashion 'fashionable lifestyle' bs or the worst styles imaginable

the cop or not threads are filled with shite
the inspo threads are worse
the waywts get horrendouser each time

rip in peace
>>
>>12730100
I bought some First Aid to the Injured not too long ago
Not very impressed.
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>>12732308
Yeah they're among the less expensive of the lot. What was the biggest let down?
>>
does Lost&Found by Ria Dunn make the cut?
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>>12732095
that's a pretty nice fit. what are we looking at here other than the ramones?
ID on pants and jacket?
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>>12732095
>>12732159
SZ seems to have its handful of shit people. I remember a long time ago there was a bunch of drama with that kunk dude ripping people off and wasting their time. Now there's all the grailed scammers.

Sad that people get ridiculous over clothes.
>>
>>12731385
Sith apprentice/10

What the fuck is with thise boots though
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>>12731163
hey man, i still haven't received my package, don't tell me some bullshit about leaving it on the back porch

xD
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>>12732085
GOT A LOT OF GOOD THINGS ON SALE, STRANGA
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>>12730063
you're a madman
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>>12733134
LOL
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>>12733134
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>>12733134
don't you dare disrespect UPS service men like this. they don't deserve it
>>
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I'm in need of some Guidi inspo
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>>12728926
> Avant Garde
how is this avant garde when it's so outdated
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>>12734000
how is it outdated?
keep in mind your opinions aren't facts if you bother trying to answer
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Do you believe in love at first sight? Now I do.
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>>12728949
I have an Isaac jacket in the mail right now. I'll let you know.

>>12729023
Source? I'm pretty sure he's self-taught.
http://www.leclaireur.com/fr/femme/isaac-sellam-amour-brut-2/
>>
>>12734518
>I have an Isaac jacket in the mail right now. I'll let you know.
Great! Hope I can keep alive this thread.
>>
i'm glad that this thread isn't totally dead, this stuff doesn't get enough discussion here anymore
i just got an individual sentiments shirt and i'm excited to put something together with it
>>
>>12734488
What's in those eyesockets?
>>
>>12731996
>>12732075
Seconding stylezeitgeist and seconding the advice to just lurk. The waywt thread is one continuous thread and there is some fantastic inspo there.
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>>12734548
A titanium plate. Personally I love it.
>>
>>12732117
GBS is rad. I really love his approach to the craft and the small scale nature of his production. His sz posts on fashion, tailoring, and the industry are really good reads even if they sometimes come off as self-righteous diatribes.
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>>12732816
I love a lot of her older pieces. It seems like these days she's more focused on the basics diffusion line, Rooms. I get it. Damir's success with Silent really pushed a lot of other designers to add basics lines but I don't feel like Ria's offshoots are that interesting. I'm not gonna pay $200 for a towel or a pair of underwear.
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>>12732876
That dude STILL tries to scam people on the Rick fb group. Doing any kind of transaction with him is risky.
>>
Who is in your wardrobe? What designers do you own the most of? Do you wear those pieces often? Do your favorite pieces get a lot of wear? I'm curious what styles y'all fuck with.
>>
>>
>>12734579

Rick Owens ( Mainline and DRKSHDW ), Damir Doma ( Mainline and Silent ), Margiela but it isn't thread-related, The Last Conspiracy, Undercover. Incoming are Guidi, more UC, more Rick, BBS ...
>>
Hey guys

I'm looking for European equivalents to websites such as CRUVOIR (i.e. eshops specialised in avant garde labels). The bargains I can find on US or CA websites are not worth the excruciating shipping and tax fees I have to pay as an EU customer

Any suggestions ?
>>
>>12734627
Try PNP Florence
>>
>>12734627
PNP firenze
Hide Munich
Darklands Berlin
Antolioni
Orimono
Eigensinnig
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>>12734652
can't find any eshop for hide munich and for eigensinning :(
>>
>>12734627

I'd add Serie Noire aswell
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>>12734681
http://www.hide-m.com
A lot of their pieces are exclusive/limited so you gotta enquire to see prices etc.

http://www.eigensinnig.at
I guess maybe eigen doesn't have an e-shop. My bad.
>>
>>12734518
>source
My friends that own Issac told me, also his cuts and stitching are somewhat similar to Carol. I don't have another source on that though.
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>>12734612
How are The Last Conspiracy shoes quality wise compared to Rick Owens for example.
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>>12734703
>>12734714

Thanks guys

I'll add springsioux from my own list

If anyone else has another eshop to share that'd be sweet

>>12734807

I own a pair, the quality is great
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>>12733991
you're welcome.
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>>12734714
is eigensinnig nice? i live in vienna
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>>12734795
I can see why someone would draw parallels but I'm pretty sure sellam did everything himself. The stitching is remeniscent of poell's overlock stitching but that's not unique to poell and sellam says in that interview that he was inspired by a carpet at a friend's house.

I'm not trying to be combative but it bothers me how much misinformation goes around about avant-garde designers. Everyone and their mom is meant to have worked with carpe diem or poell, which is ridiculous. It's important to recognize both innovation as well as copycats.
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>>12734865
Never been. Check it out and report back.
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>>12734865
There's only one way to know my friend

For Frenchfags, you have to take a look at leclaireur Sévigné in Paris
>>
Frida Frankfurt has an online shop and is one of the most complete avant-garde shops out there. They only miss CCP for some reason.
One issue: the site is completely in German, but they ship at least in Europe.
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>>12734913
CCP is particular about his stockists, as are a lot of labels in this vein. It's not uncommon to see a store stocking a lot of kind of knock-off looking labels if they can't get the real thing.
>>
What do you guys wear as everyday undershirts ?

I am looking for slightly elongated tee shirts with an ok level of fabrics and details, that would not be expensive so I could wear them under my sweaters but that would not look fuckboy tier

Ideally, something similar to late Void the Brand would be perfect
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>>12734807
I have a pair of derbies, i really like them.
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>>12734488
God, I want Tornados so bad. I also want Usole drips -- those are my ultimate grail.

OP is missing Incarnation.
>>
Great thread guys i hope we keep having these !
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>>12735139
yea really do hope these keep up
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>>12734807
wait so why do people buy the last conspiracy if you can buy second hand rick owens for that price
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I love the big guys but apart from Rick, Boris, and very recent Ann, a lot of the major artisanal labels seem to be stagnating. Tatsuro has gone off some kinda deep end, Damir is making his stuff more wearable and conforming to streetwear trends at the expense of creativity, Carol has been dead in the water every since Deepti left, and people like Geoffrey, Paul, Daisuke, and Yuichi are just churning out the same old styles.

I like to support smaller designers and labels because we need the fresh blood in the scene. Some of them have been hard at work for years but when you lack the infrastructure of someone like Rick it's often hard to get exposure.

Tsolo Munkh is one of my favorites. She's heavily influenced by her Mongolian homeland and it shows in her choice of texture-heavy natural materials and drapery reminiscent of Buddhist monks.
http://tsolomunkh.com/

If there's interest I can post more of her stuff or some other small designers I like.
>>
>>12735226
>Carol has been dead in the water every since Deepti left

How so?
>>
>>12735172
People like the idea of owning something new.
It's also not like Rick is some be-all end-all of quality. It's very nice stuff but it's still produced in a big factory and I'm pretty sure a lot of these labels are all getting their leather from the same place.
Some of TLCs designs are a lot more wearable with a less Rick-centric wardrobe, which may be appealing to some here.

>>12735239
When's the last time you saw a new CCP collection? Deepti was the heart and soul of his constructions and unless he finds a new pattern maker who is at that level, he's just gonna keep turning out old pieces and a few custom riffs on those same pieces.
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>>12735252
Did Deepti leave before the kite collection? Because that's the only recently "new" stuff from CCP I've seen.

I think maybe CCP is content with churning out the classic pieces -- aside from the titanium-glove jacket, since the pieces are running out -- because there's still a good demand for it. But I won't argue that the creativity is somewhat lacking, with regards to new pieces. Who knows.
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>>12734886

I'm going to Paris on Saturday, should I only look at Sévigné or at their other localisations in Paris ?
>>
>>12735226

Damn she's nice, you seem to be quite knowledgeable about this whole part of the fashion world. What are your toughts on Amy Revier
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>>12735260
That collection is based on his SS08 collection 'Off-Scene' but with new materials so it's still a rehash largely dependent on old patterns.

>>12735275
I love Amy Revier so so very much. I know she chooses to consider herself an Artist instead of a fashion designer and I appreciate that. Her start to finish methodology and the 'slow' work and lifestyle she's adopted are a big inspiration for me.

I have a friend who is a textile artist working toward something similar, growing her own plants for dyes. That level of dedication to your work is fantastic and I think the one-off or limited nature of that kind of work is great. Each piece is unique and it really is more like art.

>>12735266
Go to Colette before it closes! It's a legendary shop that won't be around much longer.
>>
big into this coat from Le Cuir Perdu SS17
it's like Greg Lauren with restraint
I could never get into Greg Lauren because he's so over the top
he's like the Galliano of artisanal fashion
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>>12735384
oops
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>>12735226
just gotta wait on altieri's next project i guess
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>>12735387
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>>12735388
Yeah, we'll see. So far I'm not really buying into the hype. I see Carpe Diem as very much a product of its time. Altieri sparked a thousand followers and imitators and went against the grain of the industry but it's all been done now. I'm certainly curious what he still has to bring to the table but it's gonna take a lot more to push the envelope in today's fashion world.
>>
>>12735403
i liked avantindietro, m_moriabc was good too but it was just shoes, looking forward to seeing him doing clothes again
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>>12735301
Man, I envy clothing artisans. I wish I had the money and unfettered passion they do to follow such a thing.
>>
>>12735408
For sure. Those were very focused concepts. I really liked idea of Avantindietro Field because it was years in the making. It's like the ultimate slow fashion. The Avantindietro and m_moria lasts and profiles aren't really up my alley but I think they're fantastic projects. The initial installation for m_moria in DSM London was so cool.

I too want to see more clothes from Altieri. I know that his new project is mostly focused on denim and involves a lot of seamless construction. I've heard mixed reviews from those who've seen the pieces in the flesh.

>>12735453
If you have the passion then the money is not really a hurdle. Revier didn't really have startup capital. She just had her ideas and her art and worked toward a dream. She was lucky to find an affordable home/workspace in London with her partner and she has cultivated a great relationship with Hostem, which has allowed her to keep pursuing art.
>>
I'm still kicking myself for not buying this jacket back in the day. The mudsilk fabric is so gorgeous and the dying process is fascinating.

De Rien is one of my favorite smaller labels. It's run by a father and son who got their start buying and selling old fabric at flea markets. They take vintage fabrics and pieces and breath new life into them through careful tailoring, repairing, and restructuring. I only have a pair of cropped pants/shorts from them but they have so much character.
>>
>>12735475
That reminds me of an Owens' raisin colored blazer.
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>>12728726
this is all dead. it is all about techwear now. and peak techwear is acronym
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>>12735485
I guess it's a similar shade. The nuances of mud silk are what take this to another level for me.
http://spadesandsilk.com/big-ideas/mud-silk/
>>
almost wool season around these parts
gonna break out this IS shirt for maximum comfy
accidentally ended up at a techno night in this last year and I was surprisingly comfy
>>
>>12735226
damir hasnt been good since pre 2008
ann's retirement doomed that label as well
rick is killing it although i can see why szfags wouldnt like it
bbs has always been shit
>>
>>12735491
lmfao he thinks techwear is going to last. what a fucking joke
>>
>>12732095
Damn I love it
>>
>>12735751
respectfully disagree
disrespectfully think that you have no idea what you're talking about and are just parroting generalized opinions

Damir has had some great seasons recently. AW16 mens was excellent and really cemented his place in Milan. SS13 womens rtw was good too.

Ann D SS17 mens was an absolutely fantastic return to form for the label and showed Meunier getting back to the roots of the label.

Not sure why you think szfags aren't into recent Rick. I've seen some wide Mastodon pants popping up in the waywt thread. Rick operates on a very slow linear projection and builds on past seasons. I like to think of his collections as miniseries that begin with an idea and take it to an extreme of completion over the course of a few seasons.

BBS is one of the strongest designers in the dark artisanal avant-garde whatever scene. His shows have been strong, consistent, and focused. You don't have to like him but you can't deny he's nailing the looks he goes for.
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>>12735820
>unironically defending irelevant hacks

yikes.....
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>>12735226
>Tatsuro has gone off some kinda deep end

For real. I'm really not thrilled with his latest stuff. In one interview even he doesn't seem to like the direction he has taken. Nobody has a perfect track record, but I hope he reels it back in.

>>12735820
Honestly don't know why BBS gets all the shit it does. Maybe because it has some streetwear vibes? I think it kicks ass most of the time.
>>
>>12735882
I think he's gotten a bit of flack for the 11 line, especially since it followed so closely on the heels of Silent but you gotta remember that he was a skater kid too, just like Damir.

I also think people give BBS shit simply because goth ninja fell off trend and he's at one extreme of that look with all his cold dyed pieces and strings and unabashed ninja fits.

The whole tailored menswear thing has kinda come back with Raf, JW Anderson, and Lemaire. The restrained designs of someone like Lemaire make the maximalist textures and finishes of BBS look especially loud. They stand at opposite sides.
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>>12734913
I visited the shop when I was in the city and it blew my fucking mind
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>>12735820
eh, don't agree with the meunier
I mean from menswear perspective ann leaving the label hasn't changed anything but still the last few seasons have been lackluster as fuck
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>>12735252
If you buy second hand because of the lower price, you can fuck off. Go wear H&M instead hahahahahaha.
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>>12735266

Sévigné is the only interesting one for us. The others are more oriented towards mainstream luxury brands

Take a look at La Piscine Francs Bourgeois as well, it's a hush-hush place you should appreciate

>>12735475

This piece looks beautiful, but you must have a solid wardrobe to go with it

> They take vintage fabrics and pieces and breath new life into them through careful tailoring, repairing, and restructuring

This reminds me of MMM n°0, Margiela's artisanal line. Maybe you should have a look at it if you did not know about it

>>12735848

Nice arguments you got there mate
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>>12735820
How was ss17 meunier getting 'back to the roots' at all?
If anything, he has just been doing very same ann d thing he has been doing with the label and ss18 was more of a departure from that, at least as far as menswear goes
>>
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Great thread, let's keep it alive.

10sei0otto
>>
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Layer-0
>>
>>12728726
Cedric Jacquemyn
>>
>>12736290
my wardrobe has all been acquired at a minimum of 50% off

you're either rich and retarded or just the latter
>>
>>12736576
Take a look at a collection like AW16 mens and you see a more modern direction. Some of the runway looks seemed more appropriate for Raf than Ann. Meunier doesn't seem to be very good with color. The orange and turquoise from that season stood out to me in a bad way. My ideal Ann is atmospheric and uses colors very judiciously to add something to the mood.

Meunier has always thrown in the classic Ann tropes like frilly sleeves or buckles or what have you but there's no denying he's been taking the label in a different direction.

I found ss17 to be returning to Ann's '90's work. There was a hefty dose of punk, feathers came back, stripey pants with good silhouettes, and there was a brooding romance that I've found missing from some of the recent collections. I felt ss17 was one of Meunier's most coherent and focused Ann collections.

I understand that Ann Demeulemeester with Ann at the head and Ann Demeulemeester with Meunier are two different animals and maybe I just don't care for Meunier's work, but that collection spoke to me.
>>
e-shops that sell CCP in Europe other than PNP?
>>
>>12737308

>Lazzariweb.it
>Railso.com
>Thelibrary1994.com
>>
>>12737349
Thank you
>>
>>12737349
Do you have other similar eshops ?
>>
>>12737387
Quite a few have been posted in this thread already. Take a look above.
>>
>>12733130
fit was probably made to accentuate the boots, they are the only colour piece so this acts as more of a showcase of the shoes on foot and in action. runway fits not real life fits my guy
>>
>>12729146
>remember palewave? lmao
I fucking hated palewave and every time a thread happened I would physically cringe
now i miss it. at least there was some order. sleazecore is a fucking joke
>>
>>12737540
It's crazy how much i'm missing lunar core. At least that was a clever concept. I don't think anyone in those threads have ever met a true /sleaze/
>>
>>12738246
Lunarcore was proof that this community was still relevant and up to something
>>
>>12728726
Jesus fuck it's 2012 again
>>
>>12737387
project314 in Moscow also sells ccp
>>
If I buy something in a shop that sells dark fashion pieces(darkens berlin/ project 3.14 moscow) will it make item that i have purchased dark fashion stylised?
>>
>>12738959
Yes
>>
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Love this
M. A. +
>>
>>12728726
People who still dress like this are a laughing stock in Paris
>>
>>12739286
how will I ever live knowing that this anonymous stranger online claimed that some people in paris laugh if you dress in certain brands
im just gonna go kys myself right now
>>
>>12739286
No surprise here, Paris is a muslim colony
>>
>>12728940
wow, can't believe someone actually saved my pic
thanks man
>>
>>12739300
You seem like you care desu
>>
>>12739404
your skills of analyzing anonymous strangers over internet are lacking to say the least
>>
>>12728940
>>12739395
y'all stupid for posting and believing this image is true, aint nothing wrong with drkshdw or adi collab, its still rick, as long as you're not a poor fag that has only a rick piece and tries to make up a fit with some other cheap ugly low ass brands, kys
>>
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http://fashionweekonline.com/worlds-greatest-shoemaker-simone-cecchetto

how does the quality of a1923 derbies compare to that of old Carpe Diem, CCP or Guidi?
I like cecchetto's designs and he's an amazing colorist. Does anyone here own some of his shit?
I have a pair of marbled derbies on standby but it would be a drag to return them.
>>
>>12739442
t. can only afford adidas colabs
>>
>>12739286

Except Paris isn't exactly the place to be if you're avant garde.

>>12736568
Thanks I'll go to La Piscine aswell !
>>
>>12739286
Stop projecting your own insecurities

>>12739477
> Except Paris isn't exactly the place to be if you're avant garde
It definitely is in France. Only Lyon could come close to Paris' importance for French avant-garde scene

But France in general is not the best country for avant garde fashion

> Thanks I'll go to La Piscine aswell !

Also if you stay more than a week in Paris, make sure to go there twice : they have fresh stock coming in every friday or saturday
>>
>>12739286
>>12739477
Saw quite a few people dressed like this in Chūō area in Tokyo. Mostly around Ginza and the Imperial Palace hotel area
>>12739325
kek
>>
>>12739457
For me old carpes are the best quality derbies around aside from some small custom shoemakers like Janardana. I'd imagine A1923 derbies are more durable than the sneakers just because welted shoes tend to hold up better in general.
>>
What scent do you guys use? Any suggestions?
>>
>>12739573
That's such a personal question. Depends not only on the season, weather, and time of day but on your own body chemistry.
>>
>>12739518
In France ok but in general it isn't , French fashion scene as a whole isn't exactly favoring avant garde looks
>>
>>12739582
You are paraphrasing me ;)
>>
>>12739458
very nice maymay my mentally retarded friend, too bad the adidas collab is not that cheap and actually its price is higher than some piece of clothing of the rick's main line (ofc im not talking about the geos) so i could still wear mainline if i wanted to, plus i used to be a rick's stan but since more and more people stopped wearing it i dont dress like im going to a satanic funeral anymore, get a grip
>>
>>12728896
word
>>
>>12739868
adidas collab goes on sale 60% off end of season and all the sizes are still available. this is emphatically not the case with mainline.
I'm onto you poorfag
>>
>>12739868
Guy defending Adidas collab seems barely literate. Big surprise.
>>
>>
>>12739868
t. guy trying to tell himself buying the new tech runners were worth it
>>
>>12735387
she is really hot. I don't know why.
>>
>>12737387
the archive SF
just google it
>>
>>12740614
The fact that she's an attractive person in an interesting outfit might have something to do with it.
>>
>>
>>12741269
His translucid leather seems amazing

He also just dropped another bomb earlier :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-t4rTR3PIA&t=6s
>>
>>12739577
Winter
Day
Cloudy

The only shop that sells niche perfumes is far away from where I live, so it's hard for me to try them. Any experience with Meo Fusciuni?
>>
are there any ways to do avant-garde on the cheap?
I've got a bunch of yohji, craig green, some marsél, bit of a1923 and some boris bidjan saberi but damn does all that shit cost a lot.
Zara and H&M do SLP/Balmain-core on the cheap.
What is it about avant-garde clothing that makes it all so expensive?
>inb4 "rich corinthean leather" meme
allen edmonds have good leather and you can get their shoes for $200. are we all just paying for the exclusivity of the pieces?
How come fast fashion hasn't started ripping off avant garde in earnest yet? is it because not enough rappers dress in it?
>>
>>12741690
>Zara and H&M do SLP/Balmain-core on the cheap.

Yeah and when they do it looks like absolute garbage. The exact same applies for avant garde styles.

> What is it about avant-garde clothing that makes it all so expensive?

You pay for the materials. Go and compare your tricky ricky tees with low or middle end ones, you'll agree that there is a world between them.

You pay for the craftsmanship. Luxury factories and intricate details come at a price. It's all the more true for artisanal brands such as CCP where the fabrication process pretty much justifies on its own the prohibitive pricing.

Obviously you pay for the design as well. There are sought-after leading designers, and then there are less talented copycats. Of course supply & demand will make the recognized ones' work worth more so the prices will be set higher in consequence.

You also pay for the rest of the collection. When you buy the cheapest products of a designer, you have to know that you are paying an extra that is meant to allow them to lower the price of the most expensive ones. It makes the price range more coherent as well, so that a designer does not sell $50 tee shirts along $800 sweaters.

> allen edmonds

Sorry to burst your bubble but quality wise this brand is shit. I won't even talk about the designs because at this price point you would not expect anything anyway.

> How come fast fashion hasn't started ripping off avant garde in earnest yet? is it because not enough rappers dress in it?

Are you living in a cave ?
>>
>>12741310
Yeah, I'm interested to learn more about those leathers. I probably own more Sruli Recht pieces than any other designer. Always down to support his projects. I appreciate that he experiments all across the board. I funded the kickstarter for the scotch glasses he designed and they're really great.
>>
>>12728726
No US based shops? Garbage list.
>>
>>12742838
most ppl in the thread have been asking for euro sites
also most of the designers are based in europe or japan

if you must be spoonfed:
The Archive (SF)
Barneys (NY)
Atelier (NY)
Maxfield (LA)
Alan Bilzerian (Boston)
H Lorenzo (LA)
Rick Owens (NY, LA, Miami)
Jack Straw (Seattle)
Totokaelo (Seattle, NY)
>>
>>12742896
I guess Jack Straw isn't really dark fashion but they stock some avant garde stuff like Issey
>>
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>>12742838

No one cares about the US in fashion. You're like Europe's retarded brother.

Even the few relevant US designers prefer getting established overseas before considering their homeland.

France, Italia, Belgium, UK, Japan are where shit actually happens. Deal with it faggot.
>>
>>12743214
wtc?
>>
>>12743236
He asked for shops.
Sure fashion is made elsewhere because we don't make shit over here, we buy and own shit over here.
>>
>>12743214
oh my
>>
I'm looking forward to buying a pair of Ramones/RO High Tops and have a few questions about them.
1. Do all of them come with those long laces? Wrapping them around the shoe is a very nice look.
2. There seem to be a near endless supply of these types of shoes that vary both in price and material wildly, are there any that I should avoid or just pick the style I like?
3. How thin is the material? Will I wreck them easily?
>>
>>12734488
>my footpussy is ovulating
>>
>>12743349
maybe filename?
>>
>>12742896
There's also leclaireur in LA. I know they stock CCP, not sure what else.
>>
>>12743349
>>12743688
Handmade in small batches by James Kearns. He gets a lot of flack for the fact that his designs are similar to A1923 but I can easily tell the two apart and I think his stuff is more unique. His instagram is really fun to follow.
https://www.instagram.com/jameskearnslondon/
>>
>>12744773
oh word
didn't know there was one in la
I know the Paris store stocks GBS
it'd be cool if la also had some
nice to have places to check out the smaller designers in person
>>
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>>
>>12744919
oops
meant to quote
>>12734518
>>12734523

got my jacket and it's feels incredibly well made
the leather is nice and thick but pliable and not too heavy
the arm and back seams are overlocked and also taped, which is a nice surprise
riri zips throughout
I was worried that the wool lining would make it too hot but it's a nice thin wool blend that lines the torso; the sleeve lining is acetate
>>
>>12744932
Post fit goddamn you
>>
>>12739457
Bumping for this. Also how does Marsel stack up against the other(?) artisanal shoe brands like a1923, guidi, ma+?
>>
>>12744287
I would be interested in knowing more about the second question as well
>>
>>12744946
I've got some Marsell deerskin derbies that have served me quite well. I've beat them to hell over the past couple of years and they're still going strong although they look worn. Never owned ma+ footwear but I've heard his sole construction is not so great. Easy fix but still kind of a pain at those prices. Marsell is specifically a high end shoemaker so I expect all their footwear to be top quality.
>>
>>12744944
I don't really do the whole dress up to take photos thing. It's still too hot here to wear the damned thing anyway.
>>
>>12744948
>>12744287
you guys talking about the plimsoll style of shoe or Rick's options in particular?

Rick makes lots of iterations, all of which are well constructed and high quality
off the top of my head I know they come in smooth leather, suede, blistered leather, 'paper' leather, nylon, canvas, coated denim, and neoprene
obviously the mainline leather Ramones are the 'nicest' but go with what suits your style

I'd avoid buying some closeout pair in a weird material or colorway just because the price is low
I'd also avoid neoprene just because it's such a stupid fabric for day to day wear
>>
>>12744965
Cheers anon. I've owned some Marsell derbies and some guidi ones and I consider those two brands on par with each other but the way they are discussed here I was under the impression that CCP, A1923, MA+, Paul Harnden and Carpe Diem were in a class of their own
>>
>>12745003
I'd consider the designers behind those other labels to be just that, designers. They come up with interesting designs and they have a team to help make them reality. As discussed earlier in the thread CCP fell off when he lost his best pattern maker. Same thing with Harnden. Simone gets shat on because he rips off other designers including CCP and the CD team. His stuff is still quite nice.

Any idea who the hell designs Marsell? Didn't think so (it's three siblings of the Cima family if you care). The point is that while Marsell uses top quality materials and construction, they mostly riff on classic footwear styles rather than designing unique new styles like the others you mentioned. The pieces are all quite nice but less unique.
>>
>>12745031
Interesting. You're right. I didn't know who designed Marsell.
I've got a pair of a1923 cavallo derbies on their way. I guess I'll find out how the quality is soon enough.
Thanks for the replies.
>>
>>12745056
what's your favorite pair of footwear that you own?
I like my Guidis most
they fit like a glove, feel super substantial, and the hand dye job is gorgeous and wears down to reveal new colors and patina

let me know how you like the a1923s
I'm super keen to get a pair of his sneakers but I can't really afford another big purchase right now
>>
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>>12745069
>>
>>12745069
I ordered a pair of his sneakers a while back and returned it. They were beautiful but ridiculously uncomfortable.
Leather was good quality albeit a bit on the thin side. Very stiff.
I don't mind putting up with that sort of stiffness and discomfort with derbies but not sneakers.
Favorite pair of shoes I own are some BBS black bambas. I also like my Marsell derbies for dressier occasions. They go very well with my Yohji hakamas.
>>
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>>12745069
>>12745092
Bambas. Completely different style than the Marsell/a1923/Guidi stuff.
Usually pair them with some pods or skinny black jeans
>>
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any opinions on demobaza? haven't bought any of their stuff but the design is unquestionably dark and avant garde
anyone have experience with this brand? how is the quality?
>>
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>>12745110
>>
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>>12745095
Nice. Pic related ice crystal bambas are a grail of mine but I doubt I'll ever find a pair. I heard bambas have pretty lousy build quality. What's your take?

>>12745110
>>12745115
I feel it's over-designed . It looks too much like a cosplay. Not real wearable day to day, too many busy details. It also looks pretty cheaply made. I can't imagine the quality is very good but I've never handled the stuff personally.
>>
>>12745125
>I heard bambas have pretty lousy build quality. What's your take?
haven't taken mine running yet but they feel pretty sturdy.
Surprisingly comfortable too.
I picked them up after my experience with the a1923 sneakers so I was expecting them to be unwearable but they are easily my most comfortable shoe. More so than CPs, Lanvins and even MMM GATs.
They almost feel like a hiking boot or some Jordans. The base is feels very firm. Stiff, even. My ankles get a lot of support and the leather is plush.
>>
>>12745139
that's nice to hear about the bambas
too bad about a1923
I'd love to be able to try on a pair in person but nowhere near me stocks it

might just have to save for james kearns
>>
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at the risk of sounding autistic as hell, who makes jackets with the high collar like shino wears? I haven't watched naruto or anime of any kind since middle school, but I absolutely love this style of jacket. I saw the posts about Isaac sellham, which look like it, but I was curious as to if anyone else utilizes this design. Thank you for any help.
>>
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>>12745231
as weird as julius has been getting the last few years, theyve just put out an absolutely incredible leather hoodie(?) thats cut like this, i got the chance to try it on in their tokyo store a few weeks ago and it leapt to the top of my wishlist

also like say what u want about naruto on the whole but the character designs and fashun can be pretty godtier
>>
>>12745231
The Viridi-Anne, Rick Owens, Julius, Layer-0, MA+, Damir Doma, BBS, CCP

high neck leathers are pretty common
TvA is best known for high neck wool coats and such
>>
>>12745245
Wow that's exactly what I was looking for. It's beautiful. Thank you so much
>>12745255
I'll definitely do more looking through their stuff. I must be blind. Thanks a ton anon
>>
>>12745245
I've been searching around for this but I can't seem to find it. Any idea what it was called or what season it was from? All the pieces I find seem to stop at the neck and don't farther up than that
>>
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>>
>>12744932
Thanks my nigga
>>
Hey guys I'm >>12735266

So I went to Sévigné... their collection was truly incredible but the whole ambiance was weird. The employees were cool, the boss too. They offered to store my suitcase until I was done with the shop. Excellent collection of perfumes aswell, I fell in love with a SFTM Jacket.

Piscine Franc Bourgeois was kinda weird, idk, the employees were like soccer moms and the brands weren't exactly cohesive.

Would deffo recommend l'Eclaireur though
>>
>>12745245
>>12745302
here it is

http://tokyostore.julius-garden.jp/items/6563720
>>
>>12746255
>Piscine Franc Bourgeois was kinda weird, idk, the employees were like soccer moms and the brands weren't exactly cohesive.

Haha that's the whole point

The place is a mess, the people don't belong to there, the brands seem to be chosen at random and yet it may offer some of the best deals you can find. For instance, I once saw a €70 LUC sweater there
>>
>>12746606

I was on a rush so . But yeah they had Isabel Benenato, L&F Ria Dunn, Cinzia... I didn't even check the price
>>
>>12746361
>no international shipping
i will die softly now
>>
>>12746957
I'm sure you can find one of those agents that will receive it and then ship it to you for a fee.
>>
>>12746957
proxy
fromjapan is good
>>
>>12746640

Oh, so you probably missed the fact that la piscine is an outlet store :(
>>
>>12745245
Thats an old design I believe. I have something very similar in brown cotton.
>>
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>>
>>12748930
what is this
>>
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bumpin to keep alive
>>
>>12728896
where did they go? I don't really care about fashion anymore, only wear old and new yohji in basic fits. sometimes I want to shit post about yohji.
>>
>>12749795
post some yohji fits, anon
he soothes me
>>
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>>12749736
It's a Rick Owens embroidered cashmere biker jacket.
>>
>>12750461
Looks like something from yesstyle
>>
what's a good price to shoot for when buying drkshdw canvas ramones when the sales start up? I want to be prepared
>>
>>12750930
endclothing and ssense. I didn't look at ramones but geobaskets both dipped to under $400 during last sale.
I've also read accounts on anons getting good deals on ramones over at mrporter sales.
You should sign up for all these websites since they sometimes send personalized discount codes to your mail for 10%-20% on top of sales price.
Farfetch also has pre-sale for subscribers where you get access to the sale 1 week before people who aren't subscribed so all the good sizes (M, 11, 48-50) are still available.
>>12749795
post your yohji fits anon. this thread is winding down and I need yohji inspo.
>>
sorry but it's not cool when you have to join forums and post there and befriend people to get clothes - you become a fashion victim, like the types who buy every season and have no concrete style of their own (like the 'hypebeats').

just go to a store and buy whatever is there, don't go crazy about it, save your life don't waste it obsessing over 'hunting' for clothes and dealing with scammers and douchey people.

trust me i bought yeezys for above retail price when I was in middle school and sold those worthless shoes.
>>
Are the rick adidas shoes worth paying ~$230? i heard quality is sketchy
>>
>>12752052
I think there's a difference between following designers and hunting for pieces because you're interested versus simply following trends. Ninety percent of the people I know who are into stuff we've been discussing in this thread are genuinely passionate about the designs and the craftsmanship. Comparing it to buying yeezys is silly.

>>12752306
I feel the only ones not worth it are springblades because that seems like an inherently flimsy design. Less than three hundred seems solid for the design aspect alone. There's not much that's similar aside from fakes.
>>
>>12752052
wait, what?
which clothes are only available through forums?
I get that a lot of these designers are "underground". I'm pretty sure that's on purpose and they cultivate that image, but they haven't to the best of my knowledge revolutionized how commerce operates.
At some point in time their products are available in stores, right?
>>
>>12752306
I have the rick adidas techrunners and the quality is great, they're also extremely comfortable.
>>
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can i have opinions on the right one?
its kinda thread related but people in c/n thread told me not to go for it.

nicholas k got some pretty cool thread related coats - new stylish also got some things
>>
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>>12752926
this the nicholas k lennon jacket - available in black aswell if anyone is interested

also anyone know w2c pic related cause nicholas k homepage doesn't sell it anymore
>>
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>>
>>12752926
>>12752927
i like the cost in the 2nd post a lot more
>>
>>12752052
What the fuck are you even talking about
>>
>>12752537
how do they fit? im wearing converse that i think is pretty true to size and keep hearing RO runs an entire size large
>>
Any options on cedric jacquemyn?
>>
>>12754246
his mainline stuff (most anything with the sawtooth sole at least) tends to have a pretty roomy toebox, but i wouldnt go more than half a size down personally. went tts on my geos and am happy with the fit
>>
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The problem with Rick is htat I shouldn't have to pay that much... 1 jacket or 1 year of groceries? 1 Ramone shoe (that the sole wears away) or my soul (which wears away)?
>>
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>>12739442
Literally you
>>
>>12731163
You look complete shit.
>>
>>12730607
agreed
>>
>>12755275
this is gold
>>
>>12731480
Rideau canal
>>
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Some nice old Julius
>>
>>12757700
>>
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>>12757702
Thread posts: 279
Thread images: 68


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I'm aware that Imgur.com will stop allowing adult images since 15th of May. I'm taking actions to backup as much data as possible.
Read more on this topic here - https://archived.moe/talk/thread/1694/


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