ACTUAL FASHION THREAD : 2015 RETROSPECTIVE EDITION

>implying this board knows anyone other than raf and rick

hugo boss spring/summer 2016
valentino 2016 spring
cdg 2015/16 fall autumn
great shows

Was Gosha doing anything significant last year? It seems the label went from new to meme real real quick

plz invest in a thesauruses

stop using wave/core for E V E R Y T H I N G

>>10681315
fuck me lemmie go invest in a dictionary

>>10681298
cool clothing that got picked up by uncool people.

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>>10681248

I'LL START

THIS YEAR I FINALLY STARTED PAYING ATTENTION TO WOMENSWEAR, ESPECIALLY IN THE LAST 2~3 MONTHS. IT'S OPENED UP MY EYES SO MUCH AND GIVES YOU A FRESH NEW FRAME OF REFERENCE TO SEE MENSWEAR IN A DIFFERENT LIGHT, WHICH WAS GREAT BECAUSE I FELT LIKE I WAS BORED WITH FASHION.

I'VE SAID BEFORE THAT NOT LIKING THINGS (OR BEING BORED IN THIS CASE) OFTEN HAS MORE TO DO WITH THE INDIVIDUAL NOT HAVING THE FRAME OF REFERENCE TO UNDERSTAND ITS PURPOSE / APPEAL THAN THE WORK ITSELF BEING "BAD".

ANYWAYS I'M QUITE EXCITED ABOUT J.W. ANDERSON. I'VE ALWAYS BEEN AWARE OF HIS PRESENCE EVER SINCE HE STARTED GAINING LOTS OF EXPOSURE 3~ YEARS AGO, BUT 1. DIDN'T GET IT AND 2. DIDN'T LOOK AT ALL OF IT.

I FEEL LIKE PEOPLE IN THE INDUSTRY HAVE ALWAYS LIKED HIM, BUT IT'S ONLY VERY RECENTLY THAT THE CONSUMERS / CONSUMER CULTURE, ESPECIALLY MEN(SWEAR), HAVE BECOME "READY" TO EMBRACE IT. ALSO HELPS THAT HE ISN'T DOING COLLECTIONS FULL OF DRESSES FOR MEN. J.W. ANDERSON HAS ESTABLISHED HIS SIGNATURE SO FUCKING QUICK AND MASTERFULLY EXPRESSES IT THROUGH HIS WORK AT LOEWE AS WELL, WHICH HE COMPLETELY REVOLUTIONIZED. PRETTY AMAZING FOR A 30 YEAR OLD. I FEEL LIKE YOU CAN ONLY UNDERSTAND HIS DESIGN VOCABULARY ONCE YOU'VE SEEN ALOT OF FASHION, IT TAKES A CERTAIN KIND OF NUANCED SENSIBILITY (?) TO BE ABLE TO IDENTIFY THE DETAILS, THE CUTS, ETC. THAT MAKE HIS WORK SO ENERGETIC.

PERFECT EXAMPLE OF SOMEONE WHO WAS FUCKING READY AND WAS ABLE TO SPRINT AS SOON AS THE INDUSTRY GAVE HIM THE EXPOSURE

>>10681343
CHEERS

R

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>>10681248
I don't pay all that much attention so forgive me
>>WHO WERE SOME OF YOUR FAVOURITE DESIGNERS THIS YEAR?
Yusuhi Takahashi, Shayne Oliver, and whoever designed pic related (Yohiji I think)
>>WHICH SEASON(S) DID YOU FEEL WERE PARTICULARLY STRONG?
I'm not so good at this.
>>FAVOURITE COLLECTION?
Issey Miyake MEN SS16
>>WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE FASHION MOMENT OF 2015?
Kill Angela Merkel Not
>>WHAT WERE SOME OF YOUR MOST MEMORABLE EVENTS IN FASHION THIS YEAR?
Raf picking up a loli to model for him.
>>WHAT PERSONAL DEVELOPMENTS HAVE YOU MADE THIS YEAR IN FASHION?
I'm actually starting to buy some things that I like as well as improving my own design for graphic tee prints.
>>WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FORWARD TO NEXT YEAR IN FASHION?
I want to see the next FW seasons from HBA and Issey Miyake Men and next SS season from Cav Empt.
>>WHERE IS FASHION HEADED RIGHT NOW? DO YOU LIKE WHERE IT IS HEADING?
I think it's in a good place but people pay far, far too much attention to Instagram famous people. Also, it's difficult for new designers without connections to get started, which inhibits alot of sleeping talent.

>>10681343

Studies have shown that people are less likely to read walls of text written in all caps. Try to avoid it if you can, please.

Also, interestingly enough, I've found myself looking at womenswear a bit more. There are so many interesting things going on, and, quite frankly, much more impressive things.

J.W. is based. 10/10 taste.

>>10681298
Gosha has been designing since about 2008. It's only recently that the label has achieved recognition in the US/Western European streetwear scene. His older collections were dope as fuck.

I don't think he's become a meme, but he's recycling the same old ideas. He's lost the freshness that defined his work when he started. Part of this comes from the current fashion trends. Gosha was doing takes on '90's post-Soviet street gang fashions and it worked because no one else was fetishizing that time period. Now '90's fashion has become trendy, which is both the reason for his sudden popularity and also why people consider his stuff played out at this point.

By suddenly fitting in with a fashion trend, he's seen as a flash in the pan that people are already bored with. I don't see him staying relevant unless he does something new and interesting.

>>10681382
Any links to pictures or videos of his older work?

>>10681343

CONT'D.

I LIKE THAT J.W. ANDERSON DOESN'T "DO THE UNISEX / GENDER NORMS" THING, IT FEELS LIKE A CLEAR, TRUTHFUL MANIFESTATION OF WHAT HE LIKES. I SEE TOO MANY YOUNG DESIGNERS, FULL OF NAIVE PASSION PUSHING FOR A COMPLETE ABOLISHMENT OF GENDER, WHICH IS ABOUT AS INTERESTING OF A DRIVING ETHOS AS THE BORING, NEUTRAL "OVERSIZED MENSWEAR FOR WOMEN AS WELL IN NEUTRAL TONES TO EVEN IT OUT". J.W. ANDERSON JUST FUCKING BENDS THE ENTIRE THING AND DOES IT WELL IN A UNIQUE WAY.

ELABORATING A BIT - /FA/'S VERY OWN MEME LORD RAF "FACEBOOK BUY/SELL/TRADE" SIMONS HAS BEEN CRITIQUED AS BEING "SHIT" BY YOUNG INTERNET FASHION COOL GUYS FOR QUITE SOME TIME.

THEY WERE TOO BUSY JERKING OFF OVER PICS OF 15 YEAR OLD 8TH HAND RAGS WITH MEME PRINTS (WHICH ARE STILL COOL, NOT DISCREDITING HIS EARLY WORK) ON INSTAGRAM, SPAMMING EACH OTHER WITH LIKES AND "DOPE" AND "FIRE EMOJI" THAT THEY COMPLETELY FAILED TO RECOGNIZE HIS GENIUS AT WORK TODAY...

TAKE A LOOK AT HIS COLLECTIONS FALL 2013 AND BEYOND. WITH THE EXCEPTION OF SPRING 2015 (WHICH JUST LACKED SUBSTANTIAL PIECES OVERALL, BUT STILL CONTINUED THIS NEW DIRECTION), I'M NOT THE MOST FAMILIAR WITH RAF'S ENTIRE BODY OF WORK (ESP. MID - LATE 2000S) BUT HIS DESIGN VOCABULARY HAD BEEN EVOLVING THIS LAST COUPLE OF YEARS, RESULTING IN THE LATEST COLLECTION (SPRING 2016) WHERE I CLEARLY REMEMBER EVERYONE, FUCKING EVERYONE SHITTING ON IT, SAYING IT WAS THE WORST RAF COLLECTION TO DATE, ETC. I THOUGHT THE SAME AS WELL, BUT AMIDST THE SEA OF CRITIQUE, I REMEMBER ONE DUDE ON STYLEZEITGEIST COMMENTED :

>Really like this. The colours are alive. Tailored silhouette and palate call to mind peak Gaultier Mens. Really take Jogu's point - this is the new norm buster for the fashion forward. And I'm delighted Raf's dropped the too obvious yoot tropes. Bravo.

AND DAMN THIS GUY HAD HIS SHIT ON LOCK

CONT'D.

>>10681366
>it's difficult for new designers without connections to get started

Not at all. If anything, we're at the genesis of a new freedom, the ability to spring up out of nowhere. In the same way that the internet has provided free exposure for home musicians and filmmakers, small designers now have the opportunity to bypass the system and gain a consumer fanbase ahead of being discovered by the fashion media.

There are plenty of smaller labels that advertise/show mostly on social media like Facebook and Instagram or through blogs rather than fancy websites or magazines.

I see the future opening up for new talent. Anyone has a chance now instead of anyone privileged by money, connections, or even schooling. Sure there'll be a lot of garbage coming from kids who don't know a lapel from a placket from a collar, but there's also the chance for new experimentation and approaches that exist outside the traditional constraints of fashion.

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>>10681389
It was just more raw and relied more on the pieces rather than particular sorts of graphics, cyrillic letters, and Russian flag colors.

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>>10681428

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>>10681432

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>>10681368

ok

>>10681366

You know HBA has been shit on but again, I feel like this is about people not understanding what HBA is going for. I remember just a few years back when all HBA was known for was their logo / graphic basics, people were saying shit like "who is going to remember hba in 10 years?"

And funny enough, I think with how the brand has played out, it will most fucking definitely be remembered 10, 20 years from now. I can TOTALLY see a book on the history of streetwear / relationship to high fashion, or better yet, a MET Exhibition / Gala in future decades with this theme, and they will be referencing HBA as "yo this gay black guy in the 2010s started incorporating super mega gayer than gay porn elements into streetwear that epitomized the energy of New York's streetwear / contemporary designer market".

He's doing something unique, you might not like it but alot of people do.

>>10681382

Gosha became a hit because he did kind of pioneer that "off beat" streetwear look, in junction with the rise of skater fashion & normcore / 90s 00s revival adopting 'tacky' elements (especially in color and fit) and it did come from a genuine point of view. Those were his experiences, that was his life. He was the first to do it well when the trend was on the rise, and he did it with integrity.

Now that as you say, 'slavs' and eastern european street culture has become a trend, seeing the same boy season after season gets a bit boring. But in a recent interview with Lou Stoppard @ Showstudio, he said that his clothes were always just a smaller part of a big creative world he was playing with, and I think that's a good way to approach his work. I've always thought that it was quite interesting to see what is coming from a fashion "outsider", who almost accidentally became more "fashion" than anything. I see it in the bigger picture of the photography and other collaborations he does, not the clothes in and of their own.

>>10681248
>WHO WERE SOME OF YOUR FAVOURITE DESIGNERS THIS YEAR?
Craig Green
>WHICH SEASON(S) DID YOU FEEL WERE PARTICULARLY STRONG?
Craig Green, J.W. Anderson womenswear ss16 (disliked resort), Comme womenswear, Vetements womenswear
>FAVOURITE COLLECTION?
Craig Green and Comme are tied
>WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE FASHION MOMENT OF 2015?
Gosha walking for Vetements was funny as fuck.
>WHAT WERE SOME OF YOUR MOST MEMORABLE EVENTS IN FASHION THIS YEAR?
Carlyne Dudzeele complimented my Yohji and knew the exact season my shirt was from, Nick Wooster gave me an up down.
>WHAT PERSONAL DEVELOPMENTS HAVE YOU MADE THIS YEAR IN FASHION?
SAME OL SHIT
>WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FORWARD TO NEXT YEAR IN FASHION?
More Craig Green, less underserved Jacquemus hype
>WHERE IS FASHION HEADED RIGHT NOW? DO YOU LIKE WHERE IT IS HEADING?
Looser fits and more experimentation for men, menswear designers are creating more difficult garments and shops are finally fucking buying them. Menswear will still be referencing Helmut/Margiela/Old Raf for a while, and womenswear is digging more and more into Yohji and Issey - ex: Celine and Marni.

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>>10681445

Pics related : for the latest issue of Man About Town UK, by Gosha, Lotta Volkova, Willy Vanderperre. All TRUE SONS (+daughter) of YUROP. Looks good because they know what they're handling, not like some of the fucking disgusting work sourced from "SS16 TREND : BADLANDS - EASTERN EUROPEAN OUTSKIRTS / SUBURB TREND" (Yes this is real and I saw it) on WGSN

I also feel like European underground club culture (and the elements derived thereof) is one of the coolest things now, but it's like impossible to do it unless you've lived that life. Good example is Vetements, they are about that life and they do it and it makes total sense. What doesn't make any sense is when I get invited to "DARK JOY DIVISION POST PUNK 80S REVIVAL NIGHT" at my local after hours venue. Ew

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>>10681432
>>10681436

Damn I really like these, where can I see his early stuff? Earliest I've seen before was the Burzum / PACCBET tees

>>10681398

Anyways continuing, TLDR Raf has literally been 2-3 years ahead and nobody realized it because they were all too busy jerking off over le jew order prints and trying to examine his current stuff under the lens of shit he used to do 15 FUCKING YEARS AGO

Look at this setup from SS16. Can you see how many possibilities each of those individual pieces could have in an outfit? Today, fashion, and the "cool" factor is about clever, unexpected styling than anything. That element is what has always set apart Japanese fashion from the rest of the world for me, and I feel that western fashion has become so fucking visually saturated that a new visual language is being forced (or organically) to come about.

THAT, in junction with 70s revival and the idea of "ironic dressing via adoption of ugly as fuck things from the 90s and 00s and demonstrating your ability to contextualize it and make it look good in the year 2015" has resulted in what we have now here, or the consideration of this work on display, whatever Raf's intentions were.

SS16 BEST RAF COLLECTION IN A WHILE. This is truly the new avant garde, the fashion forward men are shopping J.W. Anderson and Raf SS16, mixed with thrifted prints and Gucci accessories.

GET WITH THE FUCKING PROGRAM!!!

>>10681352
underrated

>>10681406
I can see where you're coming from.
But how does that work when certain brands, for example Anti Social Social Club or Gianni Mora, have connections that cause them to overshadow other ones? I saw on Hypebeast earlier that ASSC just did a bunch of Tshirts for DSM London, when I hadn't heard of them until a few months ago, and didn't even know they made anything outside their overpriced memehats.

>>10681406

Yes. I was actually reading this article earlier today, pretty much about what you're talking about.

http://www.vogue.com/13373926/the-answer-to-designer-burnout-thinking-small/

Also had a corporate rep from Aritzia come talk to my class today about their operations, and reading this afterwards truly made me realize, DAMN, there's a FUCKTON of logistics involved in being a full fledged FASHION BRAND, there is no fuckingn way in hell I will be able to take the traditional business route. Gotta start small, make compelling product, and make sure you know what the fuck is going on. Which is what a friend and prominent (ex) poster of this board is doing right now, very excited for him

And connecting this post with >>10681481, I'm really really fucking excited to see what Raf has in store for FW16. This season will be the first time in 10~ years that he's been able to work on his own brand alone (He was occupied with Jil Sander and Dior), so given that we are not hit with some "BREAKING : RAF SIMONS APPOINTED NEW DESIGNER OF LANVIN" within the next 3~ weeks before the men's collections begin, he will surely have something interesting for us, and I'm sure everyone in the industry is waiting.

>>10681481
4chan is not letting me post the links because it thinks it's spam
google is your friend though
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/18040/1/gosha-rubchinskiy-archive-images

>>10681491
What sort of connections does ASSC have? As far as I know it's just some dude who started a bigcartel that got popular and maybe caught the attention of some instagram star or streetwear site and blew up from there. Just because they have connections now doesn't mean they started off that way.

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>>10681491

You just have a skewed perception of where substance and attention lies within the fashion industry - which is only natural, with social media it's become super confusing as to how big something really is or if you just think it's big because that's all that the people in your social media circles are about.

Anti Social.. Gianni Mora.. these are not real fashion brands. He's talking about young designers as in kids who are coming out of fashion programs, who have cut their teeth for years and looking to become high fashion labels.

Also DSM / CdG has always been known for their generosity / fostering of young creatives. Rei has always supported independent / underground artists, done a FUCKTON of collaborations with them, and logistically supported designers (ex. Jacquemus, Gosha, Molly Goddard) so a (presumably seasonal) installation at one of the DSMs isn't exactly the most substantial accomplishment. It doesn't hold as much weight as you think it might. It still does, but not as much. Know what I mean?

pic : WHY IS DSM SO BASED

>>10681505
dude who runs it already knew a lot of cool people on instagram. he gave out hats and rode that corny quote hat hype to the top. same exact situation with babylon la.

>>10681522
That's kind of my point. His biggest connections were some kids with a lot of instagram followers.
As >>10681514 pointed out, that has very little to do with the actual fashion scene.

>>10681457

>Craig Green

I was in /fa/ IRC one night earlier this week and this fucclad from >MELBOURNE was trying to tell me that Craig Green was the hypest designer right now, way more than J.W. Anderson or Loewe. Top fvcking kek.

You know, focusing more on womenswear as of late, I realized that fashion moves a fuckload quicker than you think it does if you're only following men's. Craig Green SS16 literally feels like a year ago to me, and when you're consuming an entirely new season every 3 months vs 6, it's easy to forget. Which is why designers who only do menswear like Craig ("Unisex, I know, but what kind of women want to wear his stuff other than the odd fashion editor?) are at a huge disadvantage.

Recently I've become a lot less critical of designers and fashion in general because 1. Shit's fucking hard, think about that next time you're sitting at home and look through a new collection in 3 minutes and pass it off as "shit" and 2. Gotta work with the system, not against it, BUT

I'd really like to see Craig take his work further. 3 Seasons of the same is more than enough, especially when you're working with such few elements in design (color, material, form, etc.). With so much new exiting things happening in fashion (Just fucking look at Vetements! Insanely smart brand, came up out of nowhere and doing way better than 99% of new designers in the last few years), AND with the big fashion houses going fucking HAM with their Prefall / Resort seasons, AND with the integration of Style.com into Vogue Runway, which is beginning to cover all these smaller fashion weeks - Tokyo, Seoul, Russia, Sao Paulo, etc. a ton of new labels are being introduced and gaining attention. It's only a mater of time that he gets forgotten if he keeps going with this.

>>10681481
>too busy jerking off over le jew order prints and trying to examine his current stuff under the lens of shit he used to do 15 FUCKING YEARS AGO
only the internet is stuck on ss2002 and aw03 shit because it's so accessible, easy to parrot, and people love shitting on anything new ('hipster' mentality - i liked this band's old stuff therefore i have more credibility because I've been a fan longer).
ever since he's been heavily pushing out sterling ruby gear people have been watching again because of the commercial success. old raf fans are still pissed and rightfully so because they know they'll never get that belgian nostalgia ever again.

>Can you see how many possibilities each of those individual pieces could have in an outfit?
not a factor of a strong season, but it is important for a highly profitable season which is clearly what raf has been doing these past seasons.

>adoption of ugly as fuck things from the 90s and 00s
super true. there's been a strong shift to vintage DG and versace for a lot of buyers. but then again 'ugly' things have always sold for people into capital F fashion.

>>10681457

Also you work in the industry / attended some shows or something? Where were you able to run into industry figures like those

Also speaking of Margiela... I know 0 about John Galliano and have probably seen like 3 looks tops from his position at Dior, I absolutely fucking love what he is doing at Maison Margiela.

The design team did a great job continuing the legacy (headed by Matthieu Blazy?) but the industry was moving way too fast, people enjoyed it but I'm not sure Margiela collections were the talk of the town during fashion weeks... And whatever ended up in stores (esp. Menswear) were basic pieces at quite high prices.

Actually I fucking loved Margiela Mens Spring 2016, but read a while back that Galliano will be taking over creative direction for the Mens line for FW16 onwards. It's a bit of a shame, but again, I'm not able to buy any of it anyways so might be a very interesting change. And with "controlled flamboyancy" being what is so cool right now, I'm sure there will be interesting pieces that I'd be willing to save up for vs. 1K for a pair of wide wool pants as it is right now

>>10681547
he probably takes photos for his 'fashion blog' and went to one of the fashion weeks

>>10681457

>womenswear is digging more and more into Yohji and Issey - ex: Celine and Marni.

Not sure about this because 1. Only recently started paying attention to womenswear and 2. Again, we may be looking at different but parallel areas / movements within fashion so can't say which is the prevailing trend.. But I don't know if I've seen many going the way of Yohji... Also I know Celine has always been heralded as sophisticated modern womenswear for those who 'get it' (?), but I think the consumers are moving away from that, or are more interested in a new, vibrant energy. The movement of recession from *FASHION FASHION FASHION* feels like it died before the discussions were able to develop or take flight, because too many people have been coming out with fucking incredible shit for people to say "I don't believe in the workings of the FASHION INDUSTRY" " I'm *ANTI - FASHION* " (Barf)

Recently there were rumors about Phoebe wanting to leave. Maybe Matthieu Blazy (Former Margiela head designer, went to Celine) will take over for her? Might be interesting.

Also the last time I checked Marni was ass and I really don't know if anyone in the industry gives half a shit about it

>>10681532
there's no way CG is even close to the JW anderson hype right now. every fashionable girl i know in NYC is obsessed with JW and owns at least a couple pieces from him, and that's the same with men I know. JW is stocked very well, and CG has like 2 major places you can buy it which is DMS and barneys.

i also know quite a few women who wear CG, albiet literally all of them work in fashion and they're the same women to wear the most recent of comme's theatrical as fuck creations. i strongly think CG will ease into the market though, he's too smart not to. JW is a lot more accessible as well in terms of stocklist and designs as well which really makes sense for his popularity - he's the next cool thing and everyone wants to be on the cutting edge. also he has fucking great branding.

i've also been into womenswear for a long fucking time and agree, everything moves at a blur, but there have been holdouts whom still do well progressing at a slow pace, example being out favorite tricky ricky. also i think it's that art school mentality that they teach you, which is to shit on something with immediacy because it's a lot easier than taking time to understand concept or take into account craftsmanship.

stoked for vetements as well, and i know CG will do another insane structural and theatrical shit.

and i'm also glad to see vouge's integration of the runway archives and them plugging international designers. the shift towards local talent is seen so clearly china with prada, it's great to see vouge spotlight smaller fashion weeks.

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>>10681543

And almost as if the meme has become a (surprisingly pleasant) reality,

>EVERYONE'S FACES WHEN GUCCI IS FUCKING COOL AGAIN

If anyone reading this hasn't seen what has been going on at Gucci in the last 10 months please go take a look, this isn't a meme I'm serious

The gaudy Gucci logo belt buckles and signature green / red stripe motif (?) look super cool again in the context of Alessandro Michele (how do you say his last name? I thought it was Mishel but heard Tim Blanks say it as Mikaylay) which is quite interesting amidst all this nostalgia for past generations & past works / eras of designers... How many cool "archival" periods are we simply not aware of right now? Will 90s "OG WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK" ever be a thing? Haha fun to think about.

Also considering the upheaval and success of Loewe, how many oldschool traditional luxury houses have the potential to be renewed into something fucking cool again? Versace and a bunch of the designers who show at Milan come to mind.

Dare I say Prada? Mm, maybe, but I think Miu Miu does a good job of playing the "cool" Prada so I'll let it slide, but I've read that they've been doing poorly as a business in recent years

pic related : Gucci, and also everyone is doing ruffled collars and sleeves

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>>10681576

Yeah, a poster who works for H. Lorenzo told me that CG does "alright" in sales - his outerwear simply isn't practical enough to wear on a day to day basis.

Yeah JW is smart as fuck, super new but he quickly decided to have his stuff merchandised as part of the "designer" section rather than "contemporary" section of retailers and supposedly sales (and awareness) have been soaring since. I actually have a friend who is a design intern at JW Anderson, haven't got a chance to talk to him in forever but might be interesting to ask him more about their operations.

Vetements - I was quite excited the first season because it looked refined for a new brand and had the experienced individuals behind it to back it up... But they went full meme and the success is impressive as is the construction of the clothes, but a part of me wishes that those people established themselves as a high(er) fashion label, and not their current approach as just "making" "clothes". Also being bought up by fuccpeople at a rapid pace, to me the brand almost seems uncool already.. The clothes are still cool but overtly memey sometimes... Please get rid of the season text and cut down on all those logos..

But I guess might see a bit of what Vetements could have been if it were not just "clothes" this upcoming season, with Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga. I think people are more anxious than excited... Both nervous for the future of Vetements, which is still a very young brand (But I'm sure with such a tight knit, experienced team they will do just fine, at least for "clothes") and for Balenciaga, which has had an identity crisis in recent years.. Can he deliver? We'll see

pic : first season was based, almost like MM6. MM6 IS REALLY COOL RECENTLY TOO, HAVE BEEN USING MALE MODELS FOR LOOKS, REALLY HOPE THEY START PUTTING OUT SOME STUFF FOR MEN!!! I've noticed that MM6 and Vetements have been copying each other too hehe

Also when I was talking about Raf being on point and JW Anderson earlier, take a look at this peeps you might find this interesting.

What Raf has been doing for a while now has seamlessly integrated into the rise of current trends. It only just 'clicked' into place recently I feel.

Comparison between some Raf / JW looks from past seasons, obviously some are pretty common elements every designer uses but I don't think you can completely deny that they are somewhat influenced by each other / considering the others' work, or draw from similar influences / visual language. JW said that when he was in fashion school, Raf and Hedi's Dior Homme were the designers that all the fashion kids raved about... And now he is that very designer to fashion students today. Ha!

http://imgur.com/a/HKznT

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Now time for a game of "who copied who"

Loewe FW15

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>>10681621

Vetements SS16

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MM6 FW15

>>10681547
i'm in the industry, i won't name the label i'm at for obvious reasons, but i work in the creative department mostly doing research based things and create campaigns.

margiela purists are pissy at galliano, as i was in the beginning, but there's no denying the man is a fucking genius. the boldness mainly came from galliano doing his thing on the first season of his time at margiela, rather than doing a soft landing and sticking with some margiela roots, he went full galliano and it seen as disrespectful by many. margiela desperately needed a new direction and galliano was an excellent choice, creatively and financially.

i haven't been keeping up with margiela menswear to be honest.

>>10681558
celine has been heeeavily referencing yohji with what they're doing with hems, fabrics, coat shape, and even some styling.

i also think that 90's DG won't be a thing for a long time, the celine woman is still very much in trend as seen by the high street, as well as how fucking massive the hype of and recognition of celine accessories over the past few years.

i strongly doubt philo will leave any time soon, celine is her baby.

also, b, marni has always been the lowkey and an amazing label for a long time. it has terrible brand recognition (which is probably why they did the collab with hm), but they're so consistent. the marni woman is EASILY my favorite, because they always pump out difficult clothing that only certain women can pull off. these women fall into the prada/miu miu camp and it's not for everyone. marni is certainly seen as the 'musician's musician'. also i'm talking about womenswear, menswear is very spotty.

>>10681587
also lmao at gucci, i couldn't fucking believe it.

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>>10681628

Vetements SS16

>>10681609
understandable as CG is normally upwards of 1k a piece, and JW is priced around the same as acne and other high street garbage. was reading somewhere that he did that very much on purpose to attract younger buyers and make his clothing more accessible. he has a history of merchandizing so i'm not surprised at all that he's so business savy.

i loved mm6's use of men as well. however i have a massive issue when labels (SLP) use men in their womenswear collections, and they're wearing fucking men's clothing. cheated out of a look.

i'm excited for vetements, but the hype is just how the internet is. underground and cool shit isn't possible without bobos because everything is way too accessible. the meme shit won't hurt their label though, i feel like they're progressing too quickly for that to matter anymore.

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>>10681632

Huh, well to be fair all I've seen from Marni was their H&M collaboration (which I actually quite liked at the time) and a few bits and pieces.

Just went and skimmed through a few collections, I am liking the colors and proportions but it all looks too much like what's already out there.. Will definitely take a closer look though, it's caught my interest.

>the celine woman is still very much in trend as seen by the high street

Mm yeah I actually have no idea where I pulled that shit out from, I just kind of noticed a couple years back on the sidelines that this "Celine woman" was a thing, and hadn't heard much from (or again, simply wasn't paying enough attention to) Celine on top of all the new talent overshadowing most of fashion media, kind of assumed that it wasn't prominent anymore. Guess not. I always need to remind myself that there are a fuckton of high fashion consumers out there who don't really "keep up with fashion" or are very invested in it, they just love the clothes and buy it season after season and have the means to and approach their consumption of fashion in a less serious, relaxed manner. Would you say this is correct, or am I pulling shit out of my ass again?

Also I'm just in my first year of school for fashion design.. I've talked to people who work in design and retail about the industry and they have given me pointers, but do you think there is any advice you could offer a design student like me, from the perspective and experiences of someone like you with a 'research based' background?

Cheers

Some Marques ' Almeida, which I am enjoying as well. Repurposing / fucking with denim is such a thing now as well. This parka is awesome, got to try it on in person

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>>10681659

TLDR there are a fuckton more consumers than I often imagine there to be (especially archetypes) and not everyone is completely moving along with exactly what is going on at this moment in fashion when it comes down to the street level / actual retail sales.

More MM6 fuck yea..

alessandro michele doing gods work
im actually interested in gucci now

thi s is legit so gay

whoever started this is literally a virgin

>>10681659
i strongly believe what makes celine so relevant is the massive reach it's amassed. it definately began as what the cool edgy girls in fashion would wear (one could argue the girl wearing celine when philo joined, also wears vetements now), and became so hyped through kanye wearing a celine blouse. his blouse influenced the kardashians to look into the label, and obviously they couldn't pull off the clothing so they resorted to a very easily recognizable celine luggage bag. everyone went apeshit for that bag, and of course then people are going to start looking into the label. celine has a great mix of extremely basic fashion victims who mix a 3k camel coat with forever 21 jeans and louboutins, to the sophisticated 'celine woman' whom philo designs for and sees in herself.

also the minimalism craze is part of philo's success. her referencing jil, calvin klien, and lang, coupled with the hype of the idea of a french wardrobe and only buying 10 pieces that last a lifetime was also part of celine's appeal for the very average consumer who would usually buy something cheaper, but wants to upgrade their wardrobe. the minimalism influence can be seen by how hard zara has jacked it. what people don't realize is how fucking C H E A P minimalist garments are to produce for fast fashion/high street labels!! patterns are easy as fuck, no embellishments, minimal stitching, very little hardware means extra profits when it comes to production. people don't realize how fucking astronomically expensive one button or some hem details can be for a company producing such a large quantity of clothing. it's fucking genius to ride this celine woman hype as long as possible.

also what school/city? you're already doing better than 80% of your peers by actually looking at shows first of all. i'm sure your school has a library, fucking dig as much through it as you possibly can. there's a massive wealth of knowledge in books that cannot be found on the internet CONT..

>>10681690
intern as fast as you can. do whatever you can to get your foot in the door - whether it be a tiny little 2 man operation or a major label. it doesn't matter if it's paid or not, the information and connections you'll make are worth it. opportunities are plenty if you're actively seeking them. find a mentor/someone you trust that you connect with. i can safely say i'd be a NEET without my mentor guiding me through lots of bullshit in the industry.

make friends with other creatives, not only fashion nerds. befriend photographers as they will come in handy when you're ready for a lookbook, shit costs a lot of money.

>>10681690

Yeah totally forgot that their leather goods and accessories were a huge part of the brand.. The other day I went to Nordstrom and looked through the women's handbags for the first time in my life, I am definitely beginning to see the appeal for a woman, whereas before, even though I was super into fashion I simply did not understand handbags and ONLY looked at the clothes. I even think bags for men in this way might be possible in the future, with where things are going in terms of gender etc. nowadays

I guess I should have told you what I roughly have in mind for my career path.. I am just at a community college 2 year program in Vancouver, Canada. After the program I hope to intern / work here for a while, getting any experience (not necessarily design) I can (as much as I am passionate about design and think I might be able to add something to the dialogue, I am always open to other areas within the industry b/c I know it can always come back to and integrate into the bigger picture of running a brand).

After I think I would consider further schooling, ideally at the Antwerp Academy, and afterwards work for a larger house. Don't have enough awareness / confidence in my individual creative voice to say if I'd ever want my own brand or not. But the most concrete long term goal I have is to be working at an LVMH owned house within the next 10 years. Perhaps this may change, I'm only really getting into it now.

Yeah my school has a small but well updated selection, as does my local public library (found a copy of Raf Simons Redux there, like hundreds of dollars wtf). Try to read as much as I can on & offline.

>>10681690

>you're already doing better than 80% of your peers

Yeah there are alot of clueless people in fashion programs, but I don't care about them, I care about where I am within that top 20%... Because I'm always seeing how fucking crazy talented these kids coming out of CSM, etc. are, and always doubt if I can ever compete..

I think there are a good number of incredible individuals within that 20% of students worldwide, but maybe I just feel that there's alot because I'm connected to them and looking at them on Instagram all the time? You work at a position where you can see the workings of the "higher" levels of the industry I presume, what do you think about alot of these graduates coming out of prestigious schools? What mistakes are they making, etc?

>>10681703

Thanks for the reassurance. I think my problem is that I often think I'm "too good" to work for x position at y brand, when I just gotta shut up and work my way up like everyone else.

And for sure. I am decently connected and can branch out far within the local (tiny) industry, so I have to try harder and reach out to those creatives, but more importantly I think I need to produce compelling enough work for them to want to work with me. My mindset is always "What unique value do I have to offer" rather than "What can I take / get out of this person" which I have seen at work in the industry, and has never worked out in the long run..

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>>10681683
isn't there a fuccboi general thread you should be posting in chump?

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here are some leaks for you ugly retarded faggots, fw16 will be titled [beast]. so far all they have worked on is some shitty graphic tees but hopefully the actual collection will be more like this stuff

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>>10681732

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>>10681735

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>>10681740

>>10681708
cool, i have a lot of family in vancouver, fucking love it there. weird place fashion-wise though, lots of shitty taste hong kong transplants, and the basic girl there is decked out in oak+fort. stylish pieces, but always falls very flat.

lots of good shops tho, hang around there and get to know employees. opportunities will come from them as well. haven/inventory should be good places to lurk.

don't forget photography books for inspo, look at older photographers such as nan golding or even jurgen teller for ideas (i draw the vast majority of ideas for my job from photography books), and there's a great deal of fabrics and fashion encyclopedias i'm sure you can pick up.

from what i've heard antwerp is being less and less. you may want to consider CSM and royal college as your first options, or at least that's what i would recommend. goals are great to have - i wouldn't be shit if i didn't set any. talk your goals through with someone you trust as well once you meet them, don't keep that shit in your mind or else people won't know how to help you or give you opportunities as they come. if there's one thing i regret not doing is that communicating what you want in your career isn't a bad or shady thing. i had the mentality that i didn't want to be seen as only using a person as a step up for my personal gain, but if a person believes in you they're more than happy to give you what you need to succeed.

people are clueless because they like shopping for clothes, not fashion. you're already looking at it conceptually and technically, you're certainly farther than i was as a freshman.

instagram is important, as is social media. i rejected it for a long fucking time as well becuase i thought i was better than masterbatory lifestyle flexes. if you're talented and make work you believe in, show it off man, don't be afraid.

imo it's not being involved in their community enough and utilizing social media. CSM is very well known for how their peers often..

>>10681514
I cant wait to visit a dover street market. So many installations look so incredible. I saw photos of Paul Harnden's pieces in a very beautiful and naturual home setting. Id love to go when aitor throup releases new work (make that a big IF). I really enjoyed his initial installations at DSM and would love to experience that store first hand.

>>10681779
lift one another up. they're a unit that keep very well in touch with one another and strive for the success of themselves and their peers. that's why i believe so strongly in CSM as your first choice. it's environment is unmatched - it's all people wanting to be there and grinding so fucking hard. they're not there pissing away their parent's money for something fun to do for 4 years, unlike FIT or FIDM.

you're never too good, i began doing assistant bitch work. coffees, lunch, errands, phonecalls, and emails for 2 years while i was in university. you need to pay your dues. people in creative industries, especially fashion, have a huge problem with people who do not pay their dues and work to where they get. when you get to corporate life, there will always be the person who got the accelerated route to where they are due to connections. this person won't know shit and will completely ruin a team's dynamic, it's happened in my company multiple times, and people quit because of it. don't be that person, pay your dues.

>>10681789
harden is even more insane when you feel the fabrics. nyc staff is very friendly, strike up a convo with them and enjoy yourself man.

>>10681779

Wow cool, small world, smaller industry lol

Yeah it's a strange dynamic here, but the level of awareness / investment into fashion is on the rise. We have a Nordstrom now, a Saks 5th Ave outlet opening next year, a huge outlet by the airport, etc. Haven has been doing exceptionally well and I am thoroughly impressed, and I am indeed friends with one of the staff (you may actually know him ;), and kind of know some of the other guys there. Inventory closed down last year unfortunately, back then I didn't even know who Stephen Mann was or that he was behind it and was in town quite often (still is).

Photography is a great suggestion, I've been looking into print publications recently but I also realized it's important to look beyond fashion alot of the time, not just fashion editorials, etc.

I would definitely love to go to CSM, but simply don't have the financial means to :( and I believe it, there seems to be more and more students each year, whereas maybe 10 years ago it was still a niche, unconventional, hardcore program. Reflective of fashion being more diluted in general I guess. A former trip here a couple years back now attends Antwerp, perhaps I should reach out to him and ask him how he finds the program.

Re: communicating goals, thanks again for this. I had that idea only earlier this week after reading an interview with JW Anderson in Fantastic Man, realizing he is only 10 years older than me. So I set my sights to be somewhere around the levels of influence he is by then. I always thought that I might be creating too much frivolous expectation for myself and have been a chronic pessimist all my life so I wasn't going to tell anyone, but you're right, I should let it be known to those I look up to and know can sustain mutually beneficial relationships with.

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>>10681798

Yeah that's what I'm insanely jealous of. My friend who is there seems to have an incredible peer group that is perfect for his personality and interests. I think some of them are part of the "LOVERBOY" crowd by Charles Jeffrey who recently presented for SS16 with Fashion East (pic related).

I've also been following Kiko Kostadinov, a now MA student at CSM. He's super into Yohji and used to post in the StyleForum thread alot many years back, and it's super fucking inspiring to see him with these INSANE connections and absolutely killing it with the work he's putting out. I see that on instagram all his friends are equally as talented in their respective fields, really London seems to be the best for young creatives to be right now. So fucking envious of the culture they have going on there. Some great things are coming about.

Being at CC right now with a random bunch of fresh out of highschool kids and middle eastern moms is super uninspiring, but it's up to me to find people who inspire me then I guess. Can't complain.

Yeah, thanks for really hammering that point home.. this first term of fashion school really humbled me, like I might know alot more than my peers or whatever but that means fuck all if I can't sit the fuck down and do what is expected of me, doing everything with integrity and discipline.

Thanks again for the words. Haven't posted here in the longest time and it was nice to sustain some real dialogue :)

>>10681807

haha how funny i just remembered my cousins raving about nordstom, i hear there's a cute ass cafe in there too.

bummer about inventory, i loved that space. mann is great.

fashion is a small small world. there's cliques and circles, but everyone will always have a connection between the lines. be sure to build a good name, keep it clean. don't make compromises and on your work and keep it to your standards, and eventually your name will be worth it's own weight in those circles.

i know it can be different for design, but if it helps i went to a traditional 4 year and my degree is in economics and art history. your school/major isn't indicative of your future, lots of amazing designers are self taught as well, rei for example.

research, read, communicate, and as gross as it is, network. you're on your way.

>>10681817
no shame in asking your friend for help, whether it's advice or a connect.

i'm a fan of kiko as well, also was into SF/sufu/sz which i can safely say is where i learned most of my shit. fun to see mann, kiko, dudes at nomad grow from dicking around on forums to killing it in the industry. love kiko's stussy gear.

berlin and london are the hottest places now. new york is being gutted, there's no more cool kids here as it's gotten too expensive for the 18 year old creatives. they're all in europe now.

think of CC as paying your dues, it's smart anyways with uni being so expensive, save money and buy fabric.

it's suspiring to find someone not shitposting for once. i rarely find myself on here anymore - glad i came on - and hope i helped. i really wish someone could have reassured me a bit when i was 20, and i'm more than happy to help if it's within my ability. it's 4:30 here and i gotta dip, all the best and good luck.

>>10681248

Dries was bad for the first time in ages ... sadly

>>10681609

looking forward to demna at balenciaga, fuck wang i might actually care about balenciaga now

>>10681587

Gucci is so cool right now, the thing is the pieces are still gaudy but for some reason he makes it look casual, easy ... He has removed the whole rich people tag Gucci ahd build up inb the past decade or 2 in just 2 seasons for which I applaud him.

>>10681481
>>10681481

looking forward to how he will progress now that he's left Dior

this has been a surprisingly solid thread so far

>>10681857

srsly tho what happened his past seasons were so solid and now he let it slip bigtime for both men and women

>>10681888

Being a designer is incredibly demanding. Not everyone will have a successful season every single time. It's a simple fact but I feel like the audience / consumers often forget that. Dries is a master, no doubt he will come back strong sooner or later.

>>10681587

I don't know if i want Prada to change the economics arent looking too good indeed but her last 4 prada collections were all solid looking and id rather have the brand be a silent force as far as that's possible for a brand like prada

>>10681587
I just want people to appreciate early 00s WVB first desu 2001 was such a good year, and even the last few collections have been great although marred( possibly improved by??) By comments on Isis and terrorism

>FAVOURITE FW15 COLLECTION?
DvN, Songs for the mute
>FAVOURITE SS16 COLLECTION?
Miharayashuhiro, Public School (Pre-Fall), Julien David
>WHAT WERE SOME OF YOUR MOST MEMORABLE EVENTS IN FASHION THIS YEAR?
Antwerp Fashion Days, Stephan Schneider >>>>
>WHAT PERSONAL DEVELOPMENTS HAVE YOU MADE THIS YEAR IN FASHION?
Grew interest in runway shows, both new and older ones, developed my sense of style to something that I'm kind of almost happy with
>WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FORWARD TO NEXT YEAR IN FASHION?
DvN, Craig Green and Julien David, wasn't a big fan of Greens SS16 but his past collections have always been interesting

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>>10682061

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>>10682137

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>>10682139

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>>10682143

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>>10682146

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>>10681248
i think we can all agree that undercover womens was one of the highlights this year

Thank you all for this thread!

>>10682143
fucking great

ffs you're questions all sound the same OP.

Haider Ackermann was great this fall. Raf Simons finished up at Dior as amazing as always. Hedi Slimane is still shite. Fashion is going to monetise the houses more and more. Watching the public freak at Rick's runway stuff was hilarious.

>>10681576
what exactly is Prada doing in China? is it just seeking out local talent? why?

>>10681883
this is the first time i've visited fa in about half a year and now i remember why i loved it here. i know this is kind of one in a million but god damn there's been some good knowledge and discussion thrown about in this thread

>>10682061
good job with the follow-up pics

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Really been digging what Public School (nyc) has managed to establish with their collections. Their rtw collection for fall15 got me hooked, especially womenswear.

>>10681292
I loved Valentino as well

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>>10682389
<3

Is there anyone here who would like to compose a list of essential or influential collections, for both womens and menswear? I don't have the knowledge to make one but I'm sure a lot of people would appreciate it.

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>>10681248
fuck, i never expected there to be actual fashion ppl on this board, i for one am thrilled

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>>10682426

>>10682426
>>10682445

post collection, only way these threads can get more active is to get more people interested and to make them easier to get into

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>>10682458
Peter Movrin 2012

>>10682546
weird useless ugly
literally why

>>10682556
shouldnt you be asking people what 50$ nikes go best with your H&M skinny jeans in the fuccboi general?

>>10682556
hey anon, tell us what designers you like

>>10682556
>>10682592
>>10682618

lmao btfo

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Steve J/Yoni P fall 2015

>>10682592
He may have made a blunt statement, but getting this defensive and pretentious isn't necesarry. It's only /fa/ after all.

Who do you guys think will follow up Raf at Dior? Who should? Why?

>>10683123

also how do you guys see Hedis future at Saint Laurent?

>>10682960
love this

>>10682960
didn't know child molester was a fashion statement

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>>10682185

Yes Jun has been going fucking ridiculously hard for womenswear this past couple of seasons, and SS16 completely blew me away

I feel like Jun is everything I'd like to do as a brand. I'm always torn between wanting to do something very serious and grand with impeccable detail and execution / full japanese memecore colorful fun anime clothes, and he hits the sweet spot between those. Love the way he incorporates fantastical elements, almost like something out of a children's book.. Wish I saw more of that in the menswear, which leaves more to be desired alot of the time for me with all the musical / subcultural references but there are definitely a handful of cool items every season

He's treading this line between fashion at a Parisian / International level and Japanese domestic cult brand, it's amazing

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>>10682421

There are no "essential" or whatever, essential for what purpose?

Yes there are some significant "milestone" collections / looks / moments like alot of Margiela's shows, YY / CdG debut in the 80s, YSL Mondrian, Dior New Look, and a shitload of others, but it's up to you to look into what you are interested in. There is no master guide or handbook for fashion

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>>10683123
>>10683126

Stop asking questions just for the sake of asking questions, instead why don't you post what you think about those issues

Hedi is doing fucking ridiculously well with no sign of slowing down. Also another designer who only gets critiqued by teenage fashion cool kids on the internet

Again, try to look at it in terms of what he's trying to do. "omg it looks like thrift clothes not high fashion" yeah no fucking shit, THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT HE'S TRYING TO DO

I love it, wish I had the body type / looks to go with it. I'm just gonna have to stick with Number (N)ine, which shares alot of the musical influences but is less skinny and effeminate.

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>>10682960

Korea is at a very interesting place with fashion right now. Lots of emerging talent and subcultures are finally beginning to take root on the streets.

It's a culture that's heavily reliant on trends, which reflects in the works of their designers. I used to think, "Man these clothes are all memey with no depth", but again, that's what they're going for. Nobody there is trying to do sophistication, because that's not what the customers there want! The fashion crowd in Korea is young, vibrant, looking for fun and energetic clothes. That's exactly what their designers offer, something 'pretty'. In fact, the word 'pretty' is the main word to describe clothes there, it's their version of what we'd call 'dope' or whatever. Even guys call everything 'pretty' lol, can you imagine? Sounds super effeminate

Korean designers are super commercial, and their work feels like the essense of what is cool overseas extracted and calculated down to a formula, filtered under the distinctly Korean lens of (overly) clean presentation / image. So I'd much rather look at Japanese or London designers who they all seem heavily influenced by.

I'm sure something of greater substance will arise from Korea, in fact there are tons of Korean students at the top fashion schools in the world and my guess is that there are some working in the background, honing their skills, maybe in future decades we will see a superstar Korean designer.

Same goes for China (especially Shanghai, or so I've been told), already some crazy established designers from there but the Chinese are really catching up, they are rapidly growing past the "new money" phase and their consumers are more aware now than ever. Same deal with Chinese students @ fashion schools.

pic: Hyein Seo, Antwerp graduate, insanely commercially successful for a grad fresh out of school, but hasn't put out anything for SS16 - perhaps logistical issues as a result of this immediate commercial success, how to manage a brand, etc.

I HAVE TO SAY I ONLY REALLY STARTED PAYING ATTENTION TO FASHION THIS YEAR. WHILE MANY HERE WOULD STILL AGREE THAT I DIDN'T LOOK THAT GOOD, MUST PEOPLE I KNOW AGREE THAT I DRESS BETTER THAN I USED TO. COMPARED TO THE GENERAL POPULATION, I DRESS QUITE SHARP. I DO BELIEVE THAT I CAN UP MY GAME COME 2016. I FELL FOR SOME OF THE EFFAY MEMES OF COURSE BUT NORMAL PEOPLE THINK THAT I AM FASHIONABLE. THANKS EFFAY FOR THE HELP AND CONSTRUCTIVE ROASTING IN THE WAYWT THREADS. BY NEXT YEAR I WILL BE BETTER THAN EVER. ALWAYS IMPROVE, DON'T STOP. YOU HAVE MADE A START BUT YOU CAN KEEP GOING. DON'T LIMIT YOURSELF AND YOU WILL GO PLACES.

CHEERS,

S

>>10683461
it amazes me kow he manages to use so many detail on a single garment without it looking overdesigned, thats especiallyapparent with his older mens pieces, theres just so much going on but it isnt distracting

>WHO WERE SOME OF YOUR FAVOURITE DESIGNERS THIS YEAR?
raf simons rick owens

>>10683598
ur welcome u retarded piece of shit, happy 2k16 in a month or so

>>10683563
Really insightful bruv, v nice

>>10682143
real sick

>>10681883
high fashion/designer/industry threads are always good, probably the best on the board. it's probably because there's a small and dedicated amount of posters in them, any random idiot from reddit can't just come in and shit them up with retarded questions like most other threads.

>>10682421
As >>10683461 pointed out, there are so many answers to that question.

I suppose there are certain seminal collections that would interest a large portion of /fa/ based on what designers always seem to be references.

Dior (Hedi) A/W 03 - Luster
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uT0fXLvoUQw

Helmut Lang A/W 03
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMYyynMXto8
also pretty much every other Lang collection from 1996-2005
http://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/helmut-lang

Rick Owens A/W 09 - Crust
https://vimeo.com/81580565

Raf Simons A/W 01 - Riot Riot Riot
https://skelemitz.wordpress.com/2009/04/14/raf-simons-aw-2001/

Raf Simons S/S 02 - Woe Onto Those Who Spit On The Fear Generation...The Wind Will Blow It Back
https://vimeo.com/99821267

Raf Simons A/W 02 - Virginia Creeper
http://rafsimonsblog.tumblr.com/tagged/aw2002

Maison Martin Margiela A/W 98
Can't find a good link for this one

Undercover A/W 05 - Arts and Crafts
http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2005-ready-to-wear/undercover#collection

Carol Christian Poell S/S 04 - Mainstream Downstream
https://vimeo.com/29542519

These are just a few collections to start with. The list goes on indefinitely.

Hey guys this is gonna be real corny but whatever. 5 am here and I just a shit month at school. Trying to do fashion design and theres just so many people that fucking suck and Im pretty sure my teachers fucking suck but idk was starting to think fashion fucking sucked from that environment. But this thread is really great and really reaffirmed my faith somehow cant explain that shit. Thanks yall, from the dude in the industry to the dude in school to the guy who dresses a little better to the guy who wanted to know some seminal collections. Were all here, we can all be succesful

I see hope in the future for fashion.

I had quite the conversation with some young man who must have been no older than 18 years old. We spent a great deal of time talking about life and fashion in general. He told he had some ideas that he has for clothing and showed me a few prototypes of what he has.And I honestly have to say I was impressed, It reminded me of old nostalgia raf simons with a mixture of junya wantabe its pretty interesting. Very interested for what he has in the future.

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>favorite show(s) from this year
christian dada, giving that 50s rocker vibe with the japanese flair

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>>10681732
>>10681735
>>10681740
if this is true then we're getting bloodborne core right?

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my boy Stephan makes the comfiest clothes in the game

>>10684197
Thank you for this, exactly what I hoped for

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>>10684850
I second this, although I really dislike the footwear

Ive been really impressed with Burberry as of late. I think that they're on the right track and i could potentially see a start of an resurgence to the brand.

I think it was a really smart move to get rid of these diffusion lines and have it all fall under one label name. I thought the womens collection was a strong collection as well and a good step forward. Im actually pretty excited to see what they have planned next.

>>10685101
i thought they weren't doing too hot economically?

Getting rid of diffusion lines seems like the right thing to do at the moment.

Can I wear black nike free runs with jeans or is that a no go? I would never wear runners with jeans but the free runs look decent with jeans imo. or is it still a no go?

>>10685240
y are you posting here?

>>10681248
>>10681343
>>10681398
>>10683598
>CRUISE CONTROOOOOOL

Fuck off.

>>10685224

yea they got rekt in asia even though their designs are getting better

>>10684197
Why is raf ss 02 such a revered show? What feelings does it convey in your opinions as most of you are fashion students? To me it looks archaic, a deconstruction of menswear.

>>10682426
>>10682445
>>10682546
Shit, can you imagine if we all walked around like this? We'd all have to be in some Second Renesaince neo-catholic Italian cult. Then some terrorist with some giant sword and a few friends would show up and start attempting to destroy our society.

>>10682556
I don't believe things like these are meant to be worn as is as much as to inspire ideas. I may be completely wrong, though.

>>10681587
It's Mee-KEH-leh. Google translate gives a pretty accurate impression.

Source:I'm Italian

>>10681343
Just looked at Anderson's SS16 clothes. It's dope as fuck. But, it ain't like what he's doing is unique. AMI and Etudes have been pushing the same aesthetic for their SS16 season too.

>>10684833
starting buying ann d and elena dawson and you're there

>>10685386
>dope as fuck
>it ain't
>comparing to ami and etudes that are very different and nobody cares about
go look at more of his collections and tell me it's not unique
jw anderson is not to be evaluated under your untrained eye that can only see dvpe strvvtwvvr

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>>10685560
>>10685560
>Talking so much shit

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>>10685618

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>>10685619
Especially Etudes

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>>10685623

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>>10685625

I come across these threads once in a while on /fa/ and I recognise that they're the absolute best this baord has to offer, but I just don't understand any of this - I dont know where to watch these shows or where to even find information on when shows happen. I've never heard of most of these designers and am quite unfamiliar with this terminology.

I'd love to learn more about the terminology of high fashion and the history of big houses, brands and designers. Something to get started with.

If you guys could recommend me some books, websites and/or other resources like that, I'd be eternally grateful.

>>10685802
This is a good start

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/

You can also search for shows on Youtube. Also, look for magazines. There's a huge amount of great fashion related magazines out there, just find a good bookstore.

>>10685802
What >>10685832 said. They already put up the biggest ones of the seasons of the main page so start there.

I think it's good to develop some contextual understanding so have a look at BoF's fashion history course. Most publications have a section that stays up-to-date on fashion news so just read whatever pops up. You'll be understanding more and more as you keep reading. When certain designers catch your eye, that's when you go in-depth in books and the like.

>>10685265
i think its just the peak of rafs narative, 02 feels like all of the shows before it were somehow building up to it

>>10685802
stylezeitgeist has a lot of info on designers

>>10685935

BoF is absolutely one of the best things to read, also love Showstudio.com for their paneldiscussions both free and online

>>10685832
>>10685935
>>10686128
>>10686363
Thanks guys, these seem great to start with:)

>>10686488
Basically just browse anything fashion related, you'll will find yourself familiar with a lot of things after browsing. Just browse, and always stay with your own opinion, there are a lot of uninformed kids around who shout out retarded shit like they are the truth.

>>10685623

have you maybe considered that jw pioneered it and the industry has been heading that way for a while so other people are getting influenced? etudes and ami (especially etudes) have such unoriginal signatures so seeing them pick stuff up like this is obvious theyre just going with what jw pioneered

>>10687797
All pictures are from their upcoming season. JW pioneered high-waisted pants? C'mon.

>>10687836

if 'high waisted pants' are all you're able to see in those then i can't try to explain it to you, it's more about how everything comes together and the general direction

upcoming season? you mean ss16? yeah exactly that only supports what i was saying, the industry has been going in that direction largely thanks to jw anderson and a few other designers, of course trend forecasters will reference them and others such as ami and etudes will follow suit

>>10685265
Part of it is what >>10686122 said. It's a culmination, but also a beginning. The next season is titled Riot Riot Riot followed by consumed. SS02 is the youth in upheaval, characterized by the slogans and images on the clothing. This is followed by the classic military inspiration of AW02, a reference to more overt action. SS03 Consumed is another wave crest with the image bombing representative of the consumer culture we've become. AW03 then takes us back to the youth culture treading their own path as exemplified by the post-punk style of New Order and Peter Saville.

I suppose SS02 is just a collection that speaks to a lot of the angsty youngsters on here. The show itself is really haunting with the flare lighting and the shirt-wrapped faces. Both the presentation and clothing are aggressive. I'd argue that no one has equaled the particular feeling of that show since.

gud thread

The Lemaire FW show looked pretty comfy

>>10690034
Lemaire has been pretty well-received from what I've seen and I'm quite a fan. The timing of the collections with the UNIQLO collaboration was done well and I'm looking forward to more. I do think the women's collections could use a bit more flare, maybe some colour, as they seems somewhat tried. Love this year's fall men's.

>>10690154
I haven't looked at the women's, actually. I'm not very well-versed in women's fashion.

>>10690385
>not buying exclusively Rick Owens potatoes
they're genetically engineered to be jet black and they grow a sandwich inside each one

>>10681732
>>10681735
>>10681740
>>10681741
Which designer tho

>>10690615
>What is image search?
http://www.charlesfreger.com/portfolio/wilder-mann/

>>10690628
Right, thank you.

>>10684197
Margiela is literally GOAT

what's the best scarf for a dark skinned male?

random Q, did late 90s ready to wear helmut lang have a mainline as well as helmut lang ʲᵉᵃᶰˢ?

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What do you guys think of Marcelo Burlon? Just hypebeast shit or real fashion?

>>10690615
>>10690628
>>10690651

Its Julius u fucking idiots it says 7 right there

>>10690034
>>10690656
>>10690669

Why the fuck are you posting in this thread?

>>10690695

Yes

>>10691128

A successful graphic basics streetwear line no more no less

>>10692262
Because I want to learn more about fashion, friendo

>>10692291

Then go read, stop posting your useless garbage in this thread

stop shitting this thread up. contribute by post well thought out opinions/analysis, not meme one liners.

>>10693185
>>10692304
fucking prick(s)

>>10693200

>wahh my feelings are more important than any standard of quality posting whatsoever

>>10690695
Of course.
The colors of the Helmut Lang tags are the main signifier of which subsection the garment is part of. White text on black label and black text on white label are the more basic lower priced garments (including the Jeans label). Black on black and white on white labels are the higher end lines and certain black on black labels are the couture items, which also include the phrase 'made to measure, helmut lang new york'

>>10681708
> local public library (found a copy of Raf Simons Redux there
what library pls.

>WHO WERE SOME OF YOUR FAVOURITE DESIGNERS THIS YEAR?
Peirong Wu and Siki both still up there

>WHICH SEASON(S) DID YOU FEEL WERE PARTICULARLY STRONG?
Designer specific or actual season specific? I always enjoyed FW's more than SS' personally. Juun J FW15 was neat but idk about "strong"

>FAVOURITE COLLECTION?
Sacai SS16

>WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE FASHION MOMENT OF 2015?
When Rick allegedly punched his muse

>WHAT WERE SOME OF YOUR MOST MEMORABLE EVENTS IN FASHION THIS YEAR?
Yeezy hysteria. Tied with balmain for H&M

>WHAT PERSONAL DEVELOPMENTS HAVE YOU MADE THIS YEAR IN FASHION?
Copped my first siki im piece which i've been superbly happy with. On the flipside i'm paying more attention to streetwear/hypebeast culture and sneakers. Trying to find a happy medium somewhere.

>WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FORWARD TO NEXT YEAR IN FASHION?
Nothing in particular i guess atm. Probably to see what's the next flavour of the month is after streetwear

>WHERE IS FASHION HEADED RIGHT NOW? DO YOU LIKE WHERE IT IS HEADING?
As above. Pretty indifferent desu. It's either moving more towards tech gear as the next step after sportswear which i dont think has hit full saturation just yet or revisiting folk/ethnic type shit a la visvim and trove.

On a side note i've been seeing ripped jeans EVERYFUCKINGWHERE. My guess is thats what happens after all that raw denim disaster and patchwork might come up next

>>10693889
Forgot to throw in that stroke of genious which was lemaire x uniqlo. Pissed i got the sizing wrong and had to return after everything sold out desu. At least theres more.

Also throwing in how suddenly in the past 6 months its veg tan everythang for sneaks. I'm quite happy with ny HS AF1s tho and kinda lookinn forward to resole them in the future

>>10693889
What siki im piece did you cop? Bomber?

>>10693911
Yeah bull bomber. Original owner lurks here too somewhere

>>10693889
Peirong Who?

>>10694023
Peir wu

can someone explain to me why damir doma is disliked in terms of his latest aesthetic? his collections are always getting better imo

>>10684197
pics of the margiela show are up in the vogue archive