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Help gluing plastic

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Hey diy, the side of the ash tray broke in my suv. I tried supergluing it with no success. I'm thinking I have to step it up but Google failed me. I did find that jbweld makes plastic epoxy called plastiweld epoxy putty. Have any of you tried this or are there better things to use? I'm not concerned with it opening up again as I don't smoke.
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>>945617
>supergluing

if it is done correctly it should be fine
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>>945620
That's what I thought but I left it there for 3 days without moving it and as soon as I took the support away it fell off. Tried it again with better glue placement and the same thing happened.
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>>945617
any 2 part epoxy will work,any JB weld should be fine.
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>>945617
Hit up a decent junkyard, particularly a u-pull type yard/and get yourself a replacement. They'll probably charge you $3.
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>>945664
Wow I'm a total retard. Thanks for the most obvious advice I didn't think of somehow.
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>>945702
Just doing my part. eBay too, friend
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>>945702
If you can't find one for some heinous reason, hit up home depot or an auto parts store and get a 2 part epoxy. Shits impossible to unbond if done right.
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>>945617
You need to rough up the surface so the glue has something to bond to. If you try to glue a smooth surface then youre just going to have the results you just had.
When I glue plastic I use (because Im lazy) 80 grit sand paper in a dremal at 5k rpm and just give it a couple light passes. though sometimes I run a space heater off of the same outlet and that slows the speed down even further for me. this seems to work on in my situation.
Ideally Id recommend <60 grit sandpaper and do it by hand. 5k rpm is way too fast when you are trying to fuck up a surface real nice.
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>>945617
>Hey diy, the side of the ash tray broke in my suv. I tried supergluing it with no success. I'm thinking I have to step it up but Google failed me.
my thoughts (double your money back if not 105% satisfied)

1) just getting another from a auto salvage yard would probably be the best/easiest/quickest way, but finding one that matches the color and condition of the rest of you car's interior may be difficult

2) car dashboards are usually thermoplastic. Being a thermoplastic pretty much guarantees that regular glues, epoxies and resins won't work on them. At all.

3) a cheapo method to fix thermoplastic stuff is to use a plastic welder; Harbor Freight sells a cheap one for around $70.... Two cheaper ways is a soldering iron kept to a low heat... the way you keep a soldering iron ($10) on a low heat is you run it through a Harbor Freight-style router speed controller ($25). Alternately you can partially-heat a clean screwdriver with a heat gun ($25) and use that.

4) to weld plastic you have to melt it, but NOT burn it. Melt it from the inside, to make the repair less visible. It helps to add filler to the area; you can break off a small piece from somewhere else hidden (behind the dashboard) and use that as filler.

5) Finally,,,,, there are some special glues sold for thermoplastics. these are two-part glues that produce an exothermic reaction when mixed, that melts the plastic together:
http://www.supergluecorp.com/blog/2014/03/11/plastic-fuse-bonds-the-toughest-thermoplastic-polymers/
these kinds of glues are a *totally* different mixture than normal glue is.
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