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FILE GENERAL

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Thread replies: 17
Thread images: 4

File: armstrongmillingmachine.jpg (15KB, 450x450px) Image search: [Google]
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I just bought brand new files for the first time. They're NOS Nicholson (USA-made). I've heard that new files should be "broken in" by filing brass and other soft metals for a while before filing steel. How long should I spend filing brass before I can move on to mild steel? Or is it okay to use a new file on steel so long as I use light pressure?

Also, is it necessary to keep separate files for aluminum?
>>
>>906256
This is fucking retarded. You should feel terrible for this.
>>
>>906270
Stupid file myths thread!

My wood shop teacher flipped out if we pulled the file back without lifting it completely off the wood.
>>
>>906282
this can definitely ruin the teeth if you're filing metal but for wood it's pretty much irrelevant
>>
man, its a file, you are probably good to go and file some shit
use the proper pressure for job every time and it wont be an issue.
also, its a file

http://www.nicholsontool.com/MagentoShare/media/documents/nicholson-guide-to-filing-2014.pdf
>>
File: 25FIL-56-5.jpg (94KB, 600x400px) Image search: [Google]
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>>906256
>separate files for aluminum
technically yes.
you want a rasp or vixen file for soft metals like alu, brasses and lead, and the teeth are so coarse they skate over steel without cutting.
>>
>>906256
anyone who actually has any machining or metal working experience should know that aluminum dulls tooling faster than steel. to explain why one would have to get into molecular adhesion. but i don't file enough to warrant separate files.

>>906305
your absolutely correct about drawing a file the wrong way, and it makes me cringe when i see someone doing it.
>>
>>906378
> dulls
As in blunts the cutting edge, or fills the cutting face with aluminium chunks which prevent the cutting edges from touching the job?
>>
>>906380
blunts the cutting edge.

i once worked for a place that i was in charge of sharpening the punches and dies, i hated when they had an aluminum run. they were lucky to get 6000 punches before it started leaving a large burr, they usually ran 10,000 with galvanized cold rolled steel.
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File: 13 - 6.jpg (171KB, 904x678px) Image search: [Google]
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>>906378
Do auto-files have a different cut to the teeth? Do they bite forward like a jig saw?
>>
Is this whole thread a meme? It feels like this amount of crazy should be a meme.
>>
>>906384
Interesting, I always thought it was the teeth gumming up that was the fuck out, which is odd, because I can't see how tool steel could be dulled by a metal which is significantly softer.
>>
This makes zero sense to anyone who is a professional craftsman. If you use it, it will loose it's "bite". So "breaking it in" by filing softer materials is not giving you any benefits. Just use the damn file. It's a tool.
>>
>>906424
auto-dildo?
>>
>>906458
does it maybe have to do with aluminum oxide dust building up? after all, being essentially the same as sapphire, it's pretty abrasive

>>906460
the idea is that you are wearing down the small burrs left over from manufacturing as opposed to breaking them off which can supposedly take a larger chunk of the tooth with them
>>
>>906424
shapers and donkey saws lift up on the backstroke. die filers don't.
they use normal files and wear them out. it can't be helped.
>>
File: Capture.png (651KB, 799x508px) Image search: [Google]
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>>906638
Die filers use files that cut on the pull stroke. Unfortunately no one makes the fucking things anymore so you can only ever find them used or a NOS. Old 'sabre saws' and scroll saws (pic from a Rockwell/Delta catalog) we also commonly used a die filers and the used special files. Delta, for a time at least, used a Swiss company to make their files and imported the things. Even by the 1960s they were getting rare.
Thread posts: 17
Thread images: 4


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