Reinforcing desk

What are you planning on putting on a desk that a 1 inch thick piece of pine will need to be reinforced? are you planning on using a 3 foot wide, 1 inch thick slab of pine for the top?

>>1239645
Dimensions should be a little distance from the side of the table so we can actually see where the lines are, thank you.

Pillar at each corner, a member going across the length of it to prevent sagging, and cross bracing between the legs to prevent swaying.

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>>1239651
I'm gonna be putting two computer screens, the part on the left will have my soldering station and diverse components/scope/etc
>>1239654
Is this picture any better? I've changed the design slightly but I'm a complete newb, I've never done any woodworking in my entire life

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>>1239654
>>1239655
Another angle with measurements

>>1239656
I wouldn't break wind on that for fear of it buckling.

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>>1239655

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>>1239665
Yeah I don't trust it myself either that's why I would prefer to overbuild it than it snapping in half one day

>>1239666
Thanks for the input the hole you mentioned needs to be there cause I'm really space constrained and I would like to put the desk against the wall and there's a leg from my loft bed in the way, I planned to round the edges too but I cannot into CAD what do you think of >>1239668 ?

>>1239670
the beams should be vertical not flat like yours, and for the middle beam just run two, instead of one, and as far away as each other as possible i.e. just below the arc, and just next to the cable hole

your cutout shape is a lot less practical than a big arc because that little corner areas will not be usable with your sharp turns

For cables you don't need a big hole at all if you can just nudge the desk while you set up, you just need a 12 mm long slit for the cables to go through

>>1239645
you should put adjustable feet on it too, so you can level it.

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>>1239666

>>1239680
yeah that should be fine

might as well add a half height back panel to cable manage your cables

>>1239680
Couple comments based on furniture I have.
I'd recommend the back and side be vertical not horizontal. Greater structural strength.
Also the legs should have cross bracing or the table will fold over. At least the rear legs with a kickplate.
One of my desks uses a steel angle iron for support, it's smaller than a board of equal strength. Just make sure the edge is smooth.

>>1240053
Wow, that sounded like crap.....
I mean add a board around the back and sides.
Similar to a ledger board used on decks, fascia board?

OP, if you do have individual legs like that it will sway like a parallelogram, put X braces in between them. That also probably means getting rid of the circular legs unless you're handy with a holesaw, so if you've already got them you might have to try again.

You could also try angle iron or some other iron cross-section if you think wood will make it too thick for the same strength, but 1" of real timber shouldn't have this problem, and you'll really just be adding the struts on the bottom so that it resists the tabletop compressing while the beam resists stretching better than the tabletop would itself.

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>>1240076
>>1240069
>>1240053
I would like to keep it simple, I can't do angled cuts I'm thinking of swapping the metal legs with wood like this, I still need to go to the hardware store so if the thread is still alive by then I'll post another update before starting the project

>>1240280
Also I should mention I plan to anchor the desk to the wall so maybe this design+the anchor points will be enough?

>>1240280
That is not what the other anon is saying, the boards are on the sides, like a side wall

>>1240280
That will still have a tendency to sway from side to side, all it takes is a piece of plywood between the legs or a diagonal brace or two. Trying it to the wall will help, but not as reliably. I'd consider tensioning cables in an X shape between the three faces, it would have an interesting look.

if you are anchoring to the wall just use brackets and attach into the studs of the actual house. a benefit of having a national building code. if the wall goes somewhere you might possibly be already dead.

>>1240698
this is what i've done with bookcases and cabinets. instead of safety straps, i screw a 1x4 onto the wall into the studs (use magnet+studfinder to best find centers). then i screw through the bookcase or cabinet into the 1x4 board. it's secure, permanent, and properly spaced out from the baseboards.