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Anonymous
Washer Motor; which switch and breaker to use? 2017-08-26 02:38:10 Post No. 1233938
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Washer Motor; which switch and breaker to use? 2017-08-26 02:38:10 Post No. 1233938
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Washer Motor; which switch and breaker to use?
Anonymous
2017-08-26 02:38:10
Post No. 1233938
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I have a 1/2hp, 110v, Kenmore, Series 40 motor, water pump, and transmission. I also have the wiring harness, the cap, and wiring diagram. I know how to hook up a dryer motor easily, but this washer motor has 3 speeds and I'd like to take advantage of that for DIY purposes.
I basically want to attach a pulley to it for use with various hand cranked kitchen and farm tools (mills, grinders, etc.some with hefty flywheels like for an apple grinder) Basically, it will be in a project box with handles so it can be moved from station to station or building to building. This thing has some serious torque for the agitator shaft. I'll most likely replace the pump side with a fan to aid in cooling. Aside from a small amount of rust, this unit seems to be in good condition. Though, I'm concerned with the agitator shaft as it is a little wobbly, though I'm trying to find out of that is due to design or failure. That and the gear box leaks oil when tipped on its side which makes me thing there's no gasket in the design. I'd rather have horizontal shaft mount, but it is obviously designed for vertical mounting. I'll probably just pulley it up so it goes from V to H or remove the transmission/gear box completely and go full pulley.
The only advice I may need is for the control switch and breaker. I was thinking a 4-position rotary switch rated at 110v/240v 13a. The motor draws 9.8A, but I'm worried about inrush being a problem for say a 10A breaker. Perhaps a slow-blow breaker at 10A? Any other advice from those who have done this before would be appreciated.
Pic of everything.
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>>1233938
I totally forgot to add that this will also be hooked up to a foot pedal to act as a deadman switch.
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>>1233939
You could plug and cord it with a 15A plug, but don't be surprised if the circuit breaker feeding the receptacle opens if someone else is using the circuit when you start the motor. Kinda like when you run a vacuum cleaner.
I would also get a manual motor starter for overload protection.
https://platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Manual-Starters-Switches-Enclosed/Eaton/MST01SN/product.aspx?zpid=152475
https://platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Manual-Starters-Switches-Overload-Protection/Eaton/MSH14-2A/product.aspx?zpid=69477
So do you want to have to constantly step on the pedal for it to run or to step on it once to stop the motor.
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>>1234473
together those are about $200. That's not far from buying a new washing machine.
On the other hand, I wonder what you get when you buy the bottom-end washer.
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doesn't it have multiple winding taps for speed control?
just rev it up with the lowest speed and then switch up, if you're worried about inrush.
If that doesnt help, take a C curve breaker
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>>1234473
A deadman switch means you have to hold it down for it to work. That way if something happens it shuts off the instant you let off.
I have the original cord for it and all the wiring in the house is 10AWG with 30A breakers and 12AWG with 20A breakers.
>>1234502
>doesn't it have multiple winding taps for speed control?
Yes. The switch would start with the lowest setting and go up from there.
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Sorry for low quality post but I am pretty sure this will work. You can add a fourth position to the SLSW for an open option so it doesn't start right when you put your foot down.
This might help make your shaft less wobbly.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-mounted-bearings/=19595t8
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>>1235265
Thanks and noted. Yeah, I was going to use 2 bearings on the shaft if I'm going to be using it. Though, I'm thinking that all the stuff I'm doing simply needs some pulleys straight off the motor instead.
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