It's leaking

Teflon tape and a garden hose washer should fix it right up.

Plumbers putty
where do I send the bill?

>>1229437
isolate and empty
strip it down and have a look, check its seated properly, check seals aren't disintegrated, clean it up then reassemble. if it still leaks replace it.
any kind of bodge is just treating symptoms; might as well just put a bucket under it.

>>1229446
I guess you're right but I'm in the middle of refurbing the whole house so may have to come back to that

>>1229437
the tightness doesnt do the sealing. there is a seal in there that needs to be seated properly and in good shape

>>1229441
>Teflon tape
>plastic fittings.
>washer seal anyway
There is no reason to use Teflon tape here. The threads won't seize and have low friction because they are plastic. The actual sealing force comes from a washer, as you acknowledged.

Op, get a new washer. If you have a new washer, then you probably did it too tight and fucked up the washer geometry. Take it out, make sure its not damaged/cut or permanently deformed. Buy a new one if it is.

From the pic it looks like it's cross threaded.

>>1229506
yep. I'm guessing the seal is borked.

>>1229460
>refurbishing
>will come back to water leak
Water leaks are the most damaging faults any property can have, from creating ideal conditions for mold to more direct water damage.

Fix that shit properly and timely, anon.

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>>1229614
>Water leaks are the most damaging faults any property can have, from creating ideal conditions for mold to more direct water damage.
this
pic related
bathroom/tub is on the other side of that wall
subfloor replaced
new underlayment/tile
new drywall

>>1229437
Not OP, but I have a plumbing problem.
Tub drains slow.
Limited access to trap, etc.
60 year old house, 60 year old plumbing.
The trap looks like the put a bunch of pipe together at 90 degree angles to make it. Not like the curved P trap I'm used to seeing. Anyway, this is making it hard to snake (I think, I assume the snake won't go around the corner)
So anyway, I'm thinking about cutting away the copper and cutting in a pvc, or abs trap.
tl;dr: Can you transition from copper to plastic? is there a fitting for that?

>>1229929
where in holy fuck do you live?
i use a mcalpine multifit connector, takes pretty much anything but i don't know anything outside UK. some compression fittings might work depending on design. just make sure you understand pipe sizes properly.

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>>1229619

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>>1229929
>>1229934
Want to see a pic?

>>1229942
Also, I could not get that pipe plug to move. It looks like it was slathered with caulk which is now just cement.

>>1229942
fascinating
you said its copper? just up to the cup? some of it looks like iron?
whats the OD? looks real small.

>>1229942
>>1229961
The pic got turned 90 degrees counterclockwise. (Thanks 4chan)
The copper is the overflow down to the "trap" which does look like iron. The overflow is where I was snaking from.
United States here. East coast. The house was built in 1955. I'm guessing this is all original.
I should probably try harder to get that plug out. Would probably not be difficult to clean inside the pipe if that comes free.
I really don't want to pour chemicals down there.

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>>1229437
Just undo the rings, realign the piping so nothing is being pulled one way or another with pressure, and re-tighten the rings. Those compression fitting gaskets need to be aligned almost perfectly to work well. If that does not work, take the pressure fitting gasket out, clean it, rotate it, replace it, and try again. Make sure the compression fitting gasket is facing the correct direction. If that fails, get a new compression fitting gasket.

This is an image of the part I'm referring to. This is a pretty common problem. Especially when people stuff the cabinet under their sink with boxes and bottles of crap which bumps and puts pressure on the drain pipes misaligning them over time.

>>1229437
pretty sure your supposed to put primer and rubber cement inside those. Look up the building code.

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>>1229966
I don't understand how galvanized ever shows up on drains, but it does, usually some random assholes jury rigged fix.
Does it turn to cast iron 2 inch close to it? if so, and you have the access, time, and knowledge, might as well fix that shit now than later.

First, if you want to try and clear it, you take the overflow cover off and snake through there. If it's a trip lever style, then make sure you remove the whole assembly.
If that doesn't work, since there's not a vent right there, you can cover the drain and put a shop vac to the over flow to try and suck it backwards.

But, realistically, it's probably full of rust, soap, hair, etc.
If you want to replace, you'd cut below that tee where the overflow meets the drain right above that adapter or whatever, so that it looks like Pic Related. Cut the pipe on the other side of that bullshit drum trap abortion.
You then assemble a glue in trap with a trap adapter on top, put pvc pipe sticking out the exit of the trap, then connect that to the downstream side you cut.
To connect the new pvc to old cast iron, galvanized, etc use a no-hub clamp (sturdier) or a flexible fernco coupling that just has the hose clamps at the end(not as sturdy, but more flexible and easier to work with).

You don't have to have a clean out if you can't figure out a way to do it, since if you need to snake it in the future, you just go through the over flow. But if you ever need to run a sink machine you'd have to pull the waste/overflow assembly.
I'd suggest cutting away enough pipe to put in a wye downstream of the new trap, then make your way back to that wall with pipe and a couple of bends, and put in a clean out there(pvc glue slip to female threads coupling, then a male plug) and remember to put pipe dope on the threads to make it easier to get out later.

>>1230090
Overlooked you saying you did try to snake through the overflow properly.
But, sealed drum traps are damn near impossible to snake through anyway. Occasionally you can use a drop head on a small drill powered snake and get lucky enough that it bounces around and eventually hits the hole.

I hate that drum or bottle traps were ever a thing.

>>1229929
Fernco goes from copper to plastic. That's a brand name, it's just rubber with hose clamps on it. My sink started leaking and it's all 2 inch copper. I had to cut out all the old shit, and put in a run of pvc. No leaks in two months.

>>1230090
>>1230402
Thanks for the responses.
The no-hub or the Fernco are what I am looking for.
I didn't know if it was a bad idea to use something like that on a waste drain.
Now I just have to get in there. This is all on the second floor. I'll probably go through the drywall ceiling on the first floor.

>>1230469
Is that cap plastic? if so, drill holes into it, then use hand saw to cut from the inside out, get out as much as you can easily, cut towards the threads in a couple of places and then use a flat head screwdriver to peel it out, folding/breaking it into itself.
Then you can snake through the drum, then replace the plug and use teflon tape on plug then pipe dope as lube to seal in the new plug but keep it removable

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>>1230469
looked like crawlspace from pic.
If you do replace it, since it's second floor, use the no-hub coupling like Pic Related and secure your pipes with strapping or hangers.
If there's an interior wall next to the tub, you might want to just cut into the wall and work through there, since it's easier to work on from there than a ladder, and to patch the hole.
BTW if you aren't sure where to cut into the ceiling, use long screwdriver, untwisted coat hanger, etc to stab a couple of holes from upstairs.

If you get a chance, put your phone in the hole you took the pic from, take a pic beside the tub/down the length of that pipe, or take a video and then post a good pic out of it. There might be a couple of shortcuts to save you time.
BTW, my boss would probably make me replace that drum trap working through the hole you took that pic in. I could almost tell you how to do it, but don't now if you'd actually be able to. The hint is to remove all of the waste/overflow except for the drain shoe, then get a reciprocating saw (even a harbor freight cheapy), carbide metal blade (diablo at home depot are cheap but decent), and start cutting the pipe and trap into pieces, with the shopvac ready to get the water.

>>1229619
There are even worse things that could happen